CHAPTER IV

CACAO PRODUCTION AND SALE

When the English Commander, Thomas Candish, coming into the

Haven Guatulco, burnt two hundred thousand tun of cacao, it

proved no small loss to all New Spain, the provinces

Guatimala and Nicaragua not producing so much in a whole

year.

John Ogilvy's _America_, 1671.

When one starts to discuss, however briefly, the producing areas, one

ought first to take off one's hat to Ecuador, for so long the principal

producer, and then to Venezuela the land of the original cacao, and

producer of the finest criollo type. Having done this, one ought to say

words of praise to Trinidad, Grenada and Ceylon for their scientific

methods of culture and preparation; and, last but not least, the newest

and greatest producer, the Gold Coast, should receive honourable

mention. It is interesting to note that in 1918 British Possessions

produced nearly half (44 per cent.) of the world's supply.

Whilst the war has not very materially hindered the increase of cacao

production in the tropics, the shortage of shipping has prevented the

amount exported from maintaining a steady rise. The table below, taken

mainly from the "Gordian," illustrates this:

WORLD PRODUCTION OF CACAO.

Total in tons (1 ton = 1000 kilogrammes)

1908 194,000 1914 277,000

1909 206,000 1915 298,000

1910 220,000 1916 297,000

1911 241,000 1917 343,000

1912 234,000 1918 273,000

1913 258,000 1919 431,000

The following table is compiled chiefly from Messrs. Theo. Vasmer &

Co.'s reports in the _Confectioners' Union_.

CACAO PRODUCTION OF THE CHIEF PRODUCING AREAS OF THE WORLD.

(1 ton = 1000 kilogrammes).

Country. 1914 1915 1916 1917 1918

Tons. Tons. Tons. Tons. Tons.

Gold Coast[1] 53,000 77,300 72,200 91,000 66,300

Brazil 40,800 45,000 43,700 55,600 41,900

Ecuador 47,200 37,000 42,700 47,200 38,000

San Thomé 31,400 29,900 33,200 31,900 26,600

Trinidad[1] 28,400 24,100 24,000 31,800 26,200

San Domingo 20,700 20,200 21,000 23,700 18,800

Venezuela 16,900 18,300 15,200 13,100 13,000

Lagos[1] 4,900 9,100 9,000 15,400 10,200

Grenada[1] 6,100 6,500 5,500 5,500 6,700

Fernando Po 3,100 3,900 3,800 3,700 4,200

Ceylon[1] 2,900 3,900 3,500 3,700 4,000

Jamaica[1] 3,800 3,600 3,400 2,800 3,000

Surinam 1,900 1,700 2,000 1,900 2,500

Cameroons 1,200 2,400 3,000 2,800 1,300

Haiti 2,100 1,800 1,900 1,500 2,300

French Cols. 1,800 1,900 1,600 2,200 1,700

Cuba 1,800 1,700 1,500 1,500 1,000

Java 1,600 1,500 1,500 1,600 800

Samoa 1,100 900 900 1,200 800

Togo 200 300 400 1,600 1,000

St. Lucia[1] 700 800 700 600 500

Belgian Congo 500 600 800 800 900

Dominica[1] 450 550 300 300 300

St. Vincent[1] 100 100 75 50 75

Other countries 3,200 3,000 3,500 3,500 3,500

-------------------------------------------

Total 275,900 296,100 295,400 344,000 275,600

-------------------------------------------

Total British

Empire 102,000 128,000 120,000 153,000 119,000

[1] British Possessions.

[Illustration: MAP OF THE WORLD, WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS

MARKED.]

_SOUTH AMERICAN CACAO._

In the map of South America given on p. 89 the principal cacao producing

areas are marked. Their production in 1918 was as follows:

CACAO BEANS EXPORTED.

Percentage of

Country. Metric Tons.[2] World's production.

Brazil 41,865 15.4

Ecuador 38,000 14.0

(Guayaquil alone 34,973 tons)

Venezuela 13,000 5.0

Surinam 2,468 0.9

British Guiana 20 0.01

------------------------------------------

South American Total 95,353 tons 35.31 per cent.

------------------------------------------

[2] These figures, and others quoted later in this chapter,

are estimates given by Messrs. Theo. Vasmer & Co. in

their reports.

ECUADOR.

_Arriba and Machala Cacaos._--In Ecuador, for many years the chief

producing area of the world, dwell the cacao kings, men who possess very

large and wild cacao forests, each containing several million cacao

trees. The method of culture is primitive, and no artificial manures are

used, yet for several generations the trees have given good crops and

the soil remains as fertile as ever. The two principal cacaos are known

as _Arriba_ and _Machala_, or classed together as Guayaquil after the

city of that name. Guayaquil, the commercial metropolis of the Republic

of Ecuador, is an ancient and picturesque city built almost astride the

Equator. Despite the unscientific cultural methods, and the imperfect

fermentation, which results in the cacao containing a high percentage of

unfermented beans and not infrequently mouldy beans also, this cacao is

much appreciated in Europe and America, for the beans are large and

possess a fine strong flavour and characteristic scented aroma. The

amount of Guayaquil cacao exported in 1919 was 33,209 tons.

[Illustration: RAKING CACAO BEANS ON THE DRIERS.]

[Illustration: GATHERING CACAO PODS IN ECUADOR.

(La Clementina Plantation, Ecuador.)]

[Illustration: SORTING CACAO FOR SHIPMENT, GUAYAQUIL, ECUADOR.]

An interesting experiment was made in 1912, when a protective

association known as the _Asociacion de Agricultores del Ecuador_ was

legalised. This collects half a golden dollar on every hundred pounds of

cacao, and by purchasing and storing cacao on its own account whenever

prices fall below a reasonable minimum, attempts in the planter's

interest to regulate the selling price of cacao. Unfortunately, as cacao

tends to go mouldy when stored in a damp tropical climate, the

_Asociacion_ is not an unmixed blessing to the manufacturer and

consumer.

BRAZIL.

_Parâ and Bahia Cacaos._--Brazil has made marked progress in recent

years, and has now overtaken Ecuador in quantity of produce; the cacao,

however, is quite different from, and not as fine as, that from

Guayaquil. The principal cacao comes from the State of Bahia, where the

climate is ideal for its cultivation. Indeed so perfect are the natural

conditions that formerly no care was taken in cacao production, and much

of that gathered was wild and uncured. During the last decade there has

been an improvement, and this would, doubtless, be more noteworthy if

the means of transport were better, for at present the roads are bad and

the railways inadequate; hence most of the cacao is brought down to the

city of Bahia in canoes. Nevertheless, Bahia cacao is better fermented

than the peculiar cacao of Pará, another important cacao from Brazil,

which is appreciated by manufacturers on account of its mild flavour.

Bahia exported in 1919 about 51,000 tons of cacao.

VENEZUELA.

_Caracas, Carupano and Maracaibo Cacaos._--Venezuela has been called

"the classic home of cacao," and had not the chief occupation of its

inhabitants been revolution, it would have retained till now the

important position it held a hundred years ago. It is in this enchanted

country (it was at La Guayra in Caracas, as readers of _Westward Ho!_

will remember, that Amyas found his long-sought Rose) that the finest

cacao in the world is produced: the criollo, the bean with the

golden-brown break. The tree which produces this is as delicate as the

cacao is fine, and there is some danger that this superb cacao may die

out--a tragedy which every connoisseur would wish to avert.

The _Gordian_ estimates that Venezuela sent out from her three principal

ports in 1919 some 16,226 tons of cacao.

_THE WEST INDIES._

In the map of South America the principal West Indian islands producing

cacao are marked. Their production in 1918 was as follows:

CACAO BEANS EXPORTED. Percentage of

Metric Tons. World's production.

Trinidad (British) 26,177 9.7

San Domingo 18,839 7.0

Grenada (British) 6,704 2.5

Jamaica (British) 3,000 1.1

Haiti 2,272 0.8

St. Lucia (British) 500 0.2

Dominica (British) 300 0.1

St. Vincent (British) 70 0.02

----------- ---------------

West Indies Total 57,862 tons 21.42 per cent.

----------- ---------------

Br. West Indies 36,751 tons 13.6 per cent.

TRINIDAD AND GRENADA.[3]

[3] Cacao production in 1919: Trinidad 27,185 tons; Grenada

4,020 tons.

Cacao was grown in the West Indies in the seventeenth century, and the

inhabitants, after the destructive "blast," which utterly destroyed the

plantations in 1727, bravely replanted cacao, which has flourished there

ever since. The cacaos of Trinidad and Grenada have long been known for

their excellence, and it is mainly from Trinidad that the knowledge of

methods of scientific cultivation and preparation has been spread to

planters all round the equator. The cacao from Trinidad (famous alike

for its cacao and its pitch lake) has always held a high place in the

markets of the world, although a year or two ago the inclusion of

inferior cacao and the practice of claying was abused by a few growers

and merchants. With the object of stopping these abuses and of producing

a uniform cacao, there was formed a Cacao Planters' Association, whose

business it is to grade and bulk, and sell on a co-operative basis, the

cacao produced by its members. This experiment has proved successful,

and in 1918 the Association handled the cacao from over 100 estates.

We may expect to see more of these cacao planters' associations formed

in various parts of the world, for they are in line with the trend of

the times towards large, and ever larger, unions and combinations.

Trinidad is also progressive in its system of agricultural education and

in its formation of agricultural credit societies. The neighbouring

island of Grenada is mountainous, smaller than the Isle of Wight and (if

the Irish will forgive me) greener than Erin's Isle. The methods of

cacao cultivation in vogue there might seem natural to the British

farmer, but they are considered remarkable by cacao planters, for in

Grenada the soil on which the trees grow is forked or tilled. Possibly

from this follows the equally remarkable corollary that the cacao trees

flourish without a single shade tree. The preparation of the bean

receives as much care as the cultivation of the tree, and the cacao

which comes from the estates has an unvaried constancy of quality, not

infrequently giving 100 per cent. of perfectly prepared beans. It is

largely due to this that the cacao from this small island occupies such

an important position on the London market.

[Illustration: MAP OF SOUTH AMERICA AND THE WEST INDIES.

Only cacao-producing areas are marked.]

[Illustration: WORKERS ON A CACAO PLANTATION.

(Messrs. Cadbury's estate in Trinidad.)]

The cacao from San Domingo is known commercially as _Samana_ or

_Sanchez_. A fair proportion is of inferior quality, and is little

appreciated on the European markets. The bulk of it goes to America. The

production in 1919 was about 23,000 tons.

_AFRICAN CACAO._

In the map of Africa the principal producing areas are marked. Their

production in 1918 was as follows:

CACAO BEANS EXPORTED.

Metric Tons. Percentage of

World's production.

Gold Coast (British) 66,343 24.5

San Thomé 19,185 7.1

Lagos (British) 10,223 3.8

Fernando Po 4,220 1.6

Cameroons 1,250 0.4

Togo 1,000 0.4

Belgian Congo 875 0.3

------------ --------------

African Total 103,096 tons 38.1 per cent.

------------ --------------

British Africa 76,566 tons 28.3 per cent.

THE GOLD COAST (_Industria floremus_).

_Accra Cacao._

The name recalls stories of a romantic and awful past, in which gold and

the slave trade played their terrible part. Happily these are things of

the past; so is the "deadly climate." We are told that it is now no

worse than that of other tropical countries. According to Sir Hugh

Clifford, until recently Governor of the Gold Coast, the "West African

Climatic Bogie" is a myth, and the "monumental reputation for

unhealthiness" undeserved. When De Candolle wrote concerning cacao, "I

imagine it would succeed on the Guinea Coast,"[4] as the West African

coast is sometimes called, he achieved prophecy, but he little dreamed

how wonderful this success would be. The rise and growth of the

cacao-growing industry in the Gold Coast is one of the most

extraordinary developments of the last few decades. In thirty years it

has increased its export of cacao from nothing to 40 per cent. of the

total of the world's production.

[4] De Candolle, _Origin of Cultivated Plants_, quoted by R.

Whymper.

[Illustration: MAP OF AFRICA--WITH ONLY CACAO-PRODUCING AREAS MARKED.]

[Illustration: FORESHORE AT ACCRA, WITH STACKS OF CACAO READY FOR

SHIPMENT.

Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa".]

PRODUCTION OF CACAO ON THE GOLD COAST.

Year. Quantity. Value. £

1891 0 tons (80 lbs.) 4

1896 34 tons 2,276

1901 980 tons 42,837

1906 8,975 tons 336,269

1911 30,798 tons 1,613,468

1916 72,161 tons 3,847,720

1917 90,964 tons 3,146,851

1918 66,343 tons 1,796,985

1919 177,000 tons 8,000,000

The conditions of production in the Gold Coast present a number of

features entirely novel. We hear from time to time of concessions being

granted in tropical regions to this or that company of enterprising

European capitalists, who employ a few Europeans and send them to the

area to manage the industry. The inhabitants of the area become the

manual wage earners of the company, and too often in the lust for

profits, or as an offering to the god of commercial efficiency, the once

easy and free life of the native is lost for ever and a form of

wage-slavery takes its place with doubtful effects on the life and

health of the workers. In defence it is pointed out that yet another

portion of the earth has been made productive, which, without the

initiative of the European capitalist, must have lain fallow. But in

the Gold Coast the "indolent" native has created a new industry entirely

native owned, and in thirty years the Gold Coast has outstripped all the

areas of the world in quantity of produce. Forty years ago the natives

had never seen a cacao tree, now at least fifty million trees flourish

in the colony. This could not have happened without the strenuous

efforts of the Department of Agriculture. The Gold Coast now stands head

and shoulders above any other producing area for quantity. The problem

of the future lies in the improvement of quality, and difficult though

this problem be, we cannot doubt, given a fair chance, that the

far-sighted and energetic Agricultural Department will solve it. Indeed,

it must in justice be pointed out that already a very marked improvement

has been made, and now fifty to one hundred times as much good fermented

cacao is produced as there was ten years ago.[5] However, if a high

standard is to be maintained, the work of the Department of Agriculture

must be supplemented by the willingness of the cacao buyers to pay a

higher price for the better qualities.

[5] "Towards this latter result Messrs. Cadbury Bros., Ltd.,

rendered great assistance. This firm sent representatives

into the country, who proved to the natives that they

were willing to pay an enhanced price for cocoa prepared

in a manner suitable for their requirements. A fair

amount of cocoa was purchased by them, and demonstrations

were made in some places with regard to the proper mode

of fermentation."

(The Agricultural and Forest Products of British West

Africa. _Imperial Institute Handbook_, by G.C. Dudgeon).

[Illustration: CARRIERS CONVEYING BAGS OF CACAO TO SURF BOATS, ACCRA.

Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."]

The phenomenal growth of this industry is the more remarkable when we

consider the lack of roads and beasts of burden. The usual pack animals,

horses and oxen, cannot live on the Gold Coast because of the tsetse

fly, which spreads amongst them the sleeping sickness. And so the

native, used as he is to heavy head-loads, naturally adopted this as his

first method of transport, and hundreds of the less affluent natives

arrive at the collecting centres with great weights of cacao on their

heads. "Women and children, light-hearted, chattering and cheerful, bear

their 60 lbs. head-loads with infinite patience. Heavier loads,

approaching sometimes two hundredweight, are borne by grave, silent

Hausa-men, often a distance of thirty or forty miles."

[Illustration: CROSSING THE RIVER AT NSAWAM, GOLD COAST.]

[Illustration: DRYING CACAO BEANS AT MRAMRA.

Reproduced by permission from the Imperial Institute series of Handbooks

to the Commercial Resources of the Tropics.]

One day, not so many years ago, some more ingenious native in the hills

at the back of the Coast, filled an old palm-oil barrel with cacao and

rolled it down the ways to Accra. And now to-day it is a familiar sight

to see a man trundling a huge barrel of cacao, weighing half a ton, down

to the coast. The sound of a motor horn is heard, and he wildly turns

the barrel aside to avoid a disastrous collision with the new, weird

transport animal from Europe. Motor lorries have been used with great

effect on the coast for some seven years; they have the advantage over

pack animals that they do not succumb to the bite of the dreaded tsetse

fly, but nevertheless not a few derelicts lie, or stand on their heads,

in the ditches, the victims of over-work or accident.

[Illustration: SHOOTING CACAO FROM THE ROAD TO THE BEACH, ACCRA.]

Having brought the cacao to the coast, there yet remains the

lighterage to the ocean liner, which lies anchored some two miles from

the shore, rising and falling to the great rollers from the broad

Atlantic. A long boat is used, manned by some twenty swarthy natives,

who glory--vocally--in their passage through the dangerous surf which

roars along the sloping beach. The cacao is piled high on wood racks and

covered with tarpaulins and seldom shares the fate of passengers and

crew, who are often drenched in the surf before they swing by a crane in

the primitive mammy chair, high but not dry, on board the hospitable

Elder Dempster liner.

[Illustration: ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST.]

SAN THOMÉ (AND PRINCIPE).

We now turn from the Gold Coast and the success of native ownership to

another part of West Africa, a scene of singular beauty, where the

Portuguese planters have triumphed over savage nature.

Two lovely islands, San Thomé and its little sister isle of Principe,

lie right on the Equator in the Gulf of Guinea, about two hundred miles

from the African mainland. A warm, lazy sea, the sea of the doldrums,

sapphire or turquoise, or, in deep shaded pools, a radiant green,

joyfully foams itself away against these fairy lands of tossing palm,

dense vegetation, rushing cascades, and purple, precipitous peaks. A

soil of volcanic origin is covered with a rich humus of decaying

vegetation, and this, with a soft humid atmosphere, makes an ideal home

for cacao.

The bean, introduced in 1822, was not cultivated with diligence till

fifty years ago. To-day the two islands, which together have not half

the area of Surrey, grow 32,000 metric tons of cacao a year, or about

one-tenth of the world's production.[6] The income of a single planter,

once a poor peasant, has amounted to hundreds of thousands sterling.

[6] The _Gordian's_ estimate for the amount exported in 1919

is 40,766 tons.

[Illustration: ROLLING CACAO, GOLD COAST.

Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."]

Dotted over the islands, here nestling on a mountain side, there

overlooking some blue inlet of the sea, are more than two hundred

plantations, or _rocas_, whose buildings look like islands in a green

sea of cacao shrubs, above which rise the grey stems of such forest

trees as have been left to afford shade.

[Illustration: CARRYING CACAO TO THE RAILWAY STATION, NSAWAM, GOLD

COAST.]

Here, not only have the cultivation, fermentation and drying of cacao

been brought to the highest state of perfection, but the details of

organisation--planters' homes, hospitals, cottages, drying sheds and the

Decauville railways--are often models of their kind.

Intelligent and courteous, the planters make delightful hosts. At their

homes, five thousand miles away from Europe, the visitor, who knows what

it means to struggle with steaming, virgin forests, rank encroaching

vegetation, deadly fevers, and the physical and mental inertia

engendered by the tropics, will marvel at the courage and energy that

have triumphed over such obstacles. Calculating from various estimates,

each labourer in the islands appears to produce about 1,640 pounds of

cacao yearly, and the average yield per cultivated acre is 480 pounds,

or about 30 pounds more than that of Trinidad in 1898.

[Illustration: WAGON LOADS OF CACAO BEING TAKEN FROM MESSRS. CADBURY'S

DEPOT TO THE BEACH, ACCRA.]

As there is no available labour in San Thomé, the planters get their

workers from the mainland of Africa. Prior to the year 1908, the labour

system of the islands was responsible for grave abuses. This has now

been changed. Natives from the Portuguese colonies of Angola and

Mozambique now enter freely into contracts ranging from one to five

years, two years being the time generally chosen. At the end of their

term of work they either re-contract or return to their native land with

their savings, with which they generally buy a wife. The readiness with

which the natives volunteer for the work on the islands is proof both of

the soundness of the system of contract and of the good treatment they

receive at the hands of the planters.

[Illustration: THE BUILDINGS OF THE BOA ENTRADA CACAO ESTATE, SAN

THOMÉ.]

Unfortunately, the mortality of the plantation labourers has generally

been very heavy, one large and well-managed estate recording on an

average of seven years an annual death rate of 148 per thousand, and

many _rocas_ have still more appalling records. Against this, other

plantations only a few miles away may show a mortality approximating to

that of an average European city. In February, 1918, the workers in San

Thomé numbered 39,605, and the deaths during the previous year, 1917,

were 1,808, thus showing on official figures an annual mortality of 45

per thousand. Comparing this with the 26 per thousand of Trinidad, and

remembering that most of the San Thomé labourers are in the prime of

life, it will be seen that this death rate represents a heavy loss of

life and justifies the continued demand from the British cocoa

manufacturers for the appointment and report of a special medical

commission.

The Portuguese Government is prepared to meet this demand, for it has

recently sent a Commissioner, Dr. Joaquim Gouveia, to San Thomé to make

a thorough examination of labour conditions, including work, food,

housing, hospitals and medical attendance, and to report fully and

confidentially to the Portuguese Colonial Secretary.

[Illustration: DRYING CACAO AT AGUA IZE, SAN THOMÉ.

The trays are on wheels, which run on rails.]

If this important step is followed by adequate measures of reform there

is every reason to hope that the result will be a material reduction in

the death rate, as the good health enjoyed on some of the _rocas_ shows

San Thomé to be not more unhealthy than other tropical islands.

CAMEROONS.

The Cameroons, which we took from the Germans in 1916, is also on the

West Coast of Africa. It lags far behind the Gold Coast in output,

although both commenced to grow cacao about the same time. The Germans

spent great sums in the Cameroons in giving the industry a scientific

basis, they adopted the "estate plan," and possibly the fact that they

employ contract labour explains why they have not had the same

phenomenal success that the natives working for themselves have achieved

on the Gold Coast.

[Illustration: BARREL ROLLING, GOLD COAST.]

Various countries and districts which are responsible for about 97 per

cent. of the world's cacao crop have now been named and briefly

commented upon. Of other producing areas, the islands, Ceylon and Java,

are worthy of mention. In both of these (as also in Venezuela, Samoa[7]

and Madagascar) is grown the criollo cacao, which produces the plump,

sweet beans with the cinnamon "break." Cacao beans from Ceylon or Java

are easily recognised by their appearance, because, being washed, they

have beautiful clean shells, but there is a serious objection to washed

shells, namely, that they are brittle and as thin as paper, so that many

are broken before they reach the manufacturer. Ceylon is justly famous

for its fine "old red"; along with this a fair quantity of inferior

cacao is produced, which by being called Ceylon (such is the power of a

good name), tends to claim a higher price than its quality warrants.

[7] Robert Louis Stevenson was one of the pioneers in cacao

planting in Samoa, as readers of his _Vailima Letters_

will remember.

[Illustration: BAGGING CACAO, GOLD COAST.

Reproduced by permission of the Editor of "West Africa."]

CACAO MARKETS.

_From the Plantation to the European Market._

It is mentioned above that on the Gold Coast cacao is brought down to

Accra as head-loads, or in barrels, or in motor-lorries. These methods

are exceptional; in other countries it is usually put in sacks at the

estate. Every estate has its own characteristic mark, which is stamped

on the bags, and this is recognised by the buyers in Europe, and gives a

clue to the quality of the contents. There is not as yet a uniform

weight for a bag of cacao, although they all vary between one and two

cwt., thus the bags from Africa contain 1-1/4 cwts., whilst those from

Guayaquil contain 1-3/4 cwts. In these bags the cacao is taken to the

port on the backs of mules, in horse or ox carts, in canoes down a

stream, or more rarely, by rail. It is then conveyed by lighters or surf

boats to the great ocean liners which lie anchored off the shore. In the

hold of the liner it is rocked thousands of miles over the azure seas of

the tropics to the grey-green seas of the temperate zone. In pre-war

days a million bags used to go to Hamburg, three-quarters of a million

to New York, half a million to Havre, and only a trifling quarter of a

million to London. Now London is the leading cacao market of the world.

During the war the supplies were cut off from Hamburg, whilst Liverpool,

becoming a chief port for African cacao, in 1916 imported a million

bags. Then New York began to gorge cacao, and in 1917 created a record,

importing some two and a half million bags, or about 150,000 tons.

Whilst everything is in so fluid a condition it is unwise to prophesy;

it may, however, be said that there are many who think, now that the

consumption of cocoa and chocolate in America has reached such a

prodigious figure, that New York may yet oust London and become the

central dominating market of the world.

[Illustration: SURF BOATS BY THE SIDE OF THE OCEAN LINER, ACCRA.]

_Difficulties of Buying._

Every country produces a different kind of cacao, and the cacao from any

two plantations in the same country often shows wide variation. It may

be said that there are as many kinds of cacao as there are of apples,

cacao showing as marked differences as exhibited by crabs and Blenheims,

not to mention James Grieves, Russets, Worcester Pearmains, Newton

Wonders, Lord Derbys, Belle de Boskoops, and so forth. Further, whilst

the bulk of the cacao is good and sound, a little of the cacao grown in

any district is liable to have suffered from drought or from attacks by

moulds or insect pests. It will be realised from these fragmentary

remarks that the buyer must exercise perpetual vigilance.

[Illustration: BAGGING CACAO BEANS FOR SHIPMENT, TRINIDAD.]

[Illustration: TRANSFERRING BAGS OF CACAO BEANS TO LIGHTERS, TRINIDAD.]

_Cacao Sales._

Before the Cocoa Prices Orders were published (March, 1918) the manner

of conducting the sale of cacao in London was as follows. Brokers' lists

giving the kinds of cacao for sale, and the number of bags of each, were

sent, together with samples, to the buyers some days beforehand, so that

they were able to decide what they wished to purchase and the price they

were willing to pay. The sales always took place at 11 o'clock on

Tuesdays in the Commercial Sale Room in Mincing Lane, that narrow street

off Fenchurch Street, where the air is so highly charged with expert

knowledge of the world's produce, that it would illuminate the prosaic

surroundings with brilliant flashes if it could become visible. On the

morning of the sale samples of the cacaos are on exhibit at the

principal brokers. The man in the street brought into the broker's

office would ask what these strange beans might be. "A new kind of

almond?" he might ask. And then, on being told they were cacao, he would

see nothing to choose between all the various lots and wonder why so

much fuss was made over discriminating amongst the similar and

distinguishing the identical. He might even marvel a little at the

expert knowledge of the buyers; yet, frankly, the pertinent facts

concerning quality, known by the buyer, are fewer and no more difficult

to learn than the thousand and one facts a lad must have at his finger

ends to pass the London Matriculation; they are valued because they are

inaccessible to the multitude; only a few people have the opportunity of

learning them, and their use may make or mar fortunes. The judgment of

quality is, however, only one side of the art of buying. We have to add

to these a knowledge of the conditions prevailing in the various markets

of the world, a knowledge of stocks and probable supplies, and given

this knowledge, an ability to estimate their effect, together with other

conditions, agricultural, political and social, on the price of the

commodity. The room in which the sales are conducted is not a large one,

and usually not more than a hundred people, buyers, pressmen, etc., are

present. Not a single cacao bean is visible, and it might be an auction

sale of property for all the uninitiated could tell. The cacao is put up

in lots. Usually the sales proceed quietly, and it is difficult to

realize that many thousands of bags of cacao are changing hands. The

buyers have perfect trust in the broker's descriptions; they know the

invariable fair-play of the British broker, which is a by-word the world

over. The machinery of the proceedings is lubricated by an easy flow of

humour. Sometimes a few bags of sea-damaged cacao or of cacao sweepings

are put up, and a good deal of keenness is shown by the individuals who

buy this stuff. It is curious that a whole crowd of busy people will

allow their time to be taken up whilst there is a spirited fight between

two or three buyers for a single bag.

Whilst the London Auction Sales are of importance as fixing the prices

for the various markets, and reflecting to a certain extent the position

of supply and demand, only a fraction of the world's cacao changes hands

at the Auction Sales, the greater part of it being bought privately for

forward delivery.

_Prices and Quotations._

[Illustration: DIAGRAM SHOWING VARIATION IN PRICE OF CACAO BEANS FROM

1913 TO 1919.]

The price of cacao is liable to fluctuations like every other product,

thus in 1907 Trinidad cacao rose to one shilling a pound, whilst there

have been periods when it has only fetched sixpence per pound. On April

2nd, 1918, the Food Controller fixed the prices of the finest

qualities of the different varieties of raw cacao as follows:

British West Africa (Accra) 65s. per cwt.

Bahia }

Cameroons }

San Thomé } 85s. " "

Congo }

Grenada }

Trinidad }

Demerara } 90s. " "

Guayaquil }

Surinam }

Ceylon }

Java } 100s. " "

Samoa }

The diagram on p. 113 shows the average market price in the United

Kingdom of some of the more important cacaos before, during, and after

the war. The most striking change is the sudden rise when the Government

control was removed. All cacaos showed a substantial advance varying

from 80 to 150 per cent. on pre-war values. Further large advances have

taken place in the early months of 1920.

_The Call of the Tropics._

Many a young man, reading in some delightful book of travel, has longed

to go to the tropics and see the wonders for himself. There can be no

doubt that a sojourn in equatorial regions is one of the most educative

of experiences. In support of this I cannot do better than quote Grant

Allen, who regarded the tropics as the best of all universities. "But

above all in educational importance I rank the advantage of seeing human

nature in its primitive surroundings, far from the squalid and chilly

influences of the tail-end of the Glacial epoch." ... "We must forget

all this formal modern life; we must break away from this cramped, cold,

northern world; we must find ourselves face to face at last, in Pacific

isles or African forests, with the underlying truths of simple naked

nature."

[Illustration: GROUP OF WORKERS ON CACAO ESTATE.

Some are standing on the Drying Platform, which is the roof of the

Fermentary.]

Many will recall how Charles Kingsley's longing to see the tropics was

ultimately satisfied. In his book, in which he describes how he "At

Last" visited the West Indies, we read that he encountered a happy

Scotchman living a quiet life in the dear little island of Monos. "I

looked at the natural beauty and repose; at the human vigour and

happiness; and I said to myself, and said it often afterwards in the

West Indies: 'Why do not other people copy this wise Scot? Why should

not many a young couple, who have education, refinement, resources in

themselves, but are, happily or unhappily for them, unable to keep a

brougham and go to London balls, retreat to some such paradise as this

(and there are hundreds like it to be found in the West Indies),

leaving behind them false civilisation, and vain desires, and useless

show; and there live in simplicity and content 'The Gentle Life'?"

_The Planter's Life._

Few who go to the tropics escape their fascination, and of those that

are young, few return to colder climes. Some become overseers, others,

more fortunate, own the estates they manage. It is inadvisable for the

inexperienced to start on the enterprise of buying and planting an

estate with less capital than two or three thousand pounds; but, once

established, a cacao plantation may be looked upon as a permanent

investment, which will continue to bear and give a good yield as long as

it receives proper attention.

In the recently published _Letters of Anthony Farley_ the writer tells

how Farley encounters in South America an old college friend of his, who

in his early days was on the high road to a brilliant political career.

Here he is, a planter. He explains:

"My mother was Spanish; her brother owned this place. When he

died it came to me."

"How did your uncle hold it through the various revolutions?"

"Nothing simpler. He became an American citizen. When trouble

threatened he made a bee-line for the United States

Consulate. I'm British, of course. Well, just when I had

decided upon a political life, I found it necessary to come

here to straighten things out. One month lengthened itself

into a year. I grew fascinated. Here I felt a sense of

immense usefulness. On the mountain side my coffee-trees

flourished; down in the valley grew cacao."

"I grow mine on undulations."

"You needn't, you know, so long as you drain."

"Yes, but draining on the flat is the devil."

"Anyhow, I always liked animals--you haven't seen my pigs

yet--and horses and mules need careful tending. A cable

arrived one morning announcing an impending dissolution. I

felt like an unwilling bridegroom called to marry an ugly

bride. I invited my soul. Here, thought I to myself, are

animals and foodstuffs--good, honest food at that. If I go

back it is only to fill people's bellies with political east

wind.

"To come to the point, I decided to grow coffee and cacao. I

cabled infinite regrets. The decision once made, I was happy

as a sandboy. _J'y suis, j'y reste_, said I to myself, said

I. Nor have I ever cast one longing look behind."[8]

[8] Quoted from the _New Age_, where the _Letters of Anthony

Farley_ first appeared.

This is fiction, but I think it is true that very few, if any, who

become planters in the tropics ever return permanently to England. The

hospitality of the planters is proverbial: there must be something good

and free about the planter's life to produce men so genial and generous.

There is a picture that I often recall, and never without pleasure. A

young planter and I had, with the help of more or less willing mules,

climbed over the hills from one valley to the next. The valley we had

left is noted for its beauty, but to me it had become familiar; the

other valley I saw now for the first time. The sides were steep and

covered with trees, and I could only see one dwelling in the valley. We

reached this by a circuitous path through cacao trees. Approaching it as

we did, the bungalow seemed completely cut off from the rest of the

world. We were welcomed by the planter and his wife, and by those of the

children who were not shy. I have never seen more chubby or jolly

kiddies, and I know from the sweetness of the children that their mother

must have given them unremitting attention. I wondered indeed if she

ever left them for a moment. I knew, too, from the situation of the

bungalow in the heart of the hills that visitors were not likely to be

frequent. The planter's life is splendid for a man who likes open air

and nature, but I had sometimes thought that their wives would not find

the life so good. I was mistaken. When we came away, after riding some

distance, through a gap in the cacao we saw across the valley a group of

happy children. They saw us, and all of them, even the shy ones, waved

us adieux.

[Illustration: CARTING CACAO TO RAILWAY STATION, CEYLON.]

[Illustration: THE CARENAGE, GRENADA.]

Cocoa and Chocolate: Their History from Plantation to Consumer · 第 4 / 10 章