The patterns of the later style of lace are much lighter in effect and
gradually become merely a border of small floral ornament.
Together 9 ft. 8 in.
_Mechlin, late 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CIII. FOUR SPECIMENS OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE, CALLED
BINCHE LACE
The same threads are used for the whole width of the lace.
Together 6 ft. 6 in.
_Binche, late 17th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CIV. THREE BORDERS OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE, À VRAI
RÉSEAU DE BRUXELLES, CALLED POINT D'ANGLETERRE.
The toilé details were made separately and joined on the pillow by a
réseau. The fillings are very varied and beautiful. These borders are
worked from Louis XV. designs.
Together 8 ft. 8 in.
_Brussels, 17th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CV. LAPPET OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE, CALLED POINT
D'ANGLETERRE
Leafy, blossom and other shapes in toilé are arranged to form the outer
waved edges between which are baskets of flowers, etc. The toilé forms
are partially accentuated with a plaited cordonnet. The details of the
pattern are made separately on the pillow, and then joined by a fine
réseau, called vrai réseau de Bruxelles. The fillings are wonderfully
fine.
4 ft. 10 in. × 3 in.
_Brussels, 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CVI. TWO PARTS OF A BORDER OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE,
CALLED BRUSSELS POINT
The flowers made separately and almost entirely of a plaited cordonnet
are joined on the pillow by a fine vrai réseau de Bruxelles. The design
is in the style of Louis XVI. point d'Alençon. The reverse of the lace
is shown in No. 2. The thread of the réseau can be seen passing behind
the patterns.
5 ft. 3 in. × 5 in.
_Brussels, 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CVII. (1) A SCARF. (2) A CAP
No. 1. A scarf of bobbin-made lace, called Antwerp lace, or Potten Kant
or Pot Lace. The réseau is somewhat similar to that of the point de
Paris, a variant of the cinq trous. The lace is made on the pillow in
strips which are almost imperceptibly joined together. The toilé details
are outlined with a stout thread cordonnet
12 ft. × 8 in.
_Antwerp, late 18th century_
No. 2. A cap of bobbin-made lace, called Lille lace. The lace is made on
the pillow in strips, joined together. The réseau is of simply twisted
threads.
11 in. × 11 in.
_Lille, late 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CVIII. THREE BORDERS OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE, CALLED
VALENCIENNES POINT
This early Valenciennes has a round plaited mesh, in distinction to that
of the later Valenciennes lace, which has a square mesh
Together 8 ft. 5 in.
_Valenciennes, 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CIX. FOUR BORDERS OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE, CALLED
VALENCIENNES LACE, WITH SQUARE MESH RÉSEAU
Together 7 ft.
_Yprès, 19th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CX. BORDER OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE, WITH A POINT DE
PARIS RÉSEAU
An eagle, with shield, dogs and stags are repeated in the pattern. The
réseau and the toilé are both made with the same thread.
4 ft. 10 in. × 3 in.
_Paris, late 17th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXI. FLOUNCE FOR A DRESS, OF BOBBIN-MADE SILK LACE
Pattern of repeated heavy flowers in sprays, forming a waved edge
_Made at Chantilly, 1820-30_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXII. THREE BORDERS OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE WITH A
RÉSEAU OF MAGLIA DI SPAGNA
No. 1 is of linen thread with a heavy thread introduced, not as in some
Flemish laces to outline the pattern, but to form strong leading lines
in it.
Nos. 2 and 3 are bobbin-made silk lace, a coarser silk thread is
introduced. These were the ruffles for a coat sleeve
Together 9 ft.
_Spanish, late 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXIII. MANTILLA OR SCARF OF BOBBIN-MADE BLACK SILK
LACE
Some of the fillings are of the point de Paris réseau, also called fond
chant from Chantilly, where much of the so-called Spanish silk lace was
made
9 ft. × 30 in.
_Bought in Madrid in 1840_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXIV. TWO EXAMPLES OF BOBBIN-MADE INSERTION
No. 1. Spanish bobbin-made insertion: the stems are of gold and the
flowers of silver
_16th century_
No. 2. Genoese bobbin-made insertion of silver with shell pattern edge.
Together 3 ft. 6 in.
_17th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXV. FOUR PATTERNS OF ITALIAN GOLD AND SILVER
BOBBIN-MADE LACE
Probably made at Lucca.
Together 11 ft. 6 in.
_17th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXVI. TWO LAPPETS OF BOBBIN-MADE BLACK
No. 1. Lappet of bobbin-made black Bedfordshire silk lace
No. 2. Lappet of bobbin-made black Brussels silk lace
Together 7 ft.
_About 1848_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXVII. TWO BORDERS OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE
No. 1. Bobbin-made lace. The pattern of leaves is outlined in parts by a
stout thread
No. 2. A large flower repeated forms the edge. The characteristic very
simple réseau is spotted with groups of six small square dots
Together 4 ft. 10 in.
_Bucks, 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXVIII. BORDER AND CAP CROWN OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE
Of Devonshire make in the style of Point d'Angleterre or Brussels lace.
The toilé details are made separately and joined partly by réseau and
partly by brides picotées. The upper piece shows the back of the lace,
with the threads from the réseau carried across the toilé of the
pattern. The convolutions of the toilé in the blossoms are considered to
be characteristic of Honiton lace.
3 ft. 4 in.
_Honiton, 18th century_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXIX. LAPPET OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE
The toilé flowers and leaves, chiefly rose, shamrock and thistle, are
joined by an irregular mesh simple réseau made by hand. The original
design was perhaps to celebrate the Union.
5 ft. × 5½ in.
_Honiton, about 1840_]
[Illustration: PLATE CXX. TWO BORDERS OF APPLIQUÉ LACE, ONE WITH A
VANDYKE EDGE AND ONE WITH A MITRED OR SCALLOPED EDGE
The flowers are of bobbin-made lace with accentuations of plaited
cordonnet as in Point d'Angleterre, and then applied and sewn to
machine-made net.
Together 4 ft. 5 in.
_Devonshire (Honiton)_]
INDEX
A
Alb, 9, 23, 27, 30, 33
Alençon, 10, 15, 31, 37, 50
Alexandria, 26
Alva, Duke of, 52
Angleterre, 38
Angoulême, Marguérite d', 31, 32
Antwerp, 50
Apparels, 24
Appliqué, 9, 52
Argentan, 15, 39
Argentella, 9
Arras, 16, 50
Assisi, 25
Assisi, Basilica of, 29
Avorio, punto, 9, 14, 31, 34, 35
B
Bar Convent, The, 40
Bedfordshire, 51
Benedictine Order, 24
Bible of St. Martial, 23
Bibliothèque Nationale, 23, 24
Binche, 38, 49
Blonde, 16, 51
Bobbin Lace, Classification of, 4
Bock, Dr. Franz, 28, 53
Bone point, 9
Boniface VIII., 27, 28
Braun, S. J., Father, 53
British Museum, 21
Brussels, 16, 39, 47, 51
Buckingham, 16, 50, 51
Burano, 37
Buratto, 4, 10, 31
Buttonhole stitch, 10, 28
Byssus, 28
C
Camisia, 35
Carrickmacross, 41
Cartiglia, 27
Catacombs, 26
Catherine de Marcq, 38
Ceylon, 45, 47
Chalice cover, 34
Chantilly, 16, 51
Charlemagne, 23
Charles II., 38
Church vestments, 22
Clare, Saint, 25
Colbert, 38
Cole, Mr. Alan, 53
Copes, 22
Coptic design, 4, 21, 25
Coraline point, 35
Corporal border, 34
Cotta, 10
Crypt of St. Peter's, 29
D
Dalmatia, 45
Dalmatic, 22
Darned work, 39
Denmark, 39
Dentelle, 23, 34
Dentelle de chasse, 51
Devonshire lace, 52
Dreger, Dr. Moritz, 53
Duccio di Buoninsegna, 30
Dugdale's History, 22
Dutch lace, 40
E
Egyptians, 26
English Nuns Rule, 22
Entrelacs, 25
F
Festone, Punto a, 14, 28
Flanders, 16, 48, 51
Florence lace, 32
Fogliami, Punto tagliato a, 36
Fortescue, Dr. Adrian, 27
France, Point de, 37
Francis I., King, 32
Francis, Saint, 25, 27, 32
G
Gammadion Symbol, 21, 22, 26, 27, 31
Gayet, Mr. A., 25, 30
Genoa, 13, 46, 47, 51
German lace, 31, 34, 40
Giotto, 29
Gnostic definition, 25
Gouda lace, 40
Gozo, 46
Greek work, 21, 25
Gregory V., 27
Grottaferrata, 27
H
Hair lace, 40
Heraldic lace, 30, 31, 35, 48, 50
Hermitage, Petersburg, 21
Hexagonal meshes, 39
Holy or Hollie lace, 40
Honiton, 47, 52
I
Ilg, Dr., 53
Irish lace, 41
Ivory stitch, 11, 34
L
Lace-making, Revival of, 4
Lace Pattern Books, 21
Lacis, 4, 11, 22, 23, 30, 31
Lateran, St. John, 29
Leipzig, 40
Le Puy, 47
Lille, 16, 50, 52
Limerick, 40
Lorenzetti, 30
Louis XIV., 38
Louis XVI., 38
Louvre, 29
Lucca, 51
M
Macramé, 12, 33
Madeira, 47
Madrid, 51
Malta, 45, 46, 48
Manila Lace, 40
Manuscripts, illuminated, 23
Marie Antoinette, Queen, 39
Marot, Clément, 32
Martial, Saint, 23
Mary Stuart, Queen, 40
Mechlin, 16, 49, 52
Mezza Mandolina, 35
Michael, Saint, 32
Milan, 47, 48
Modano, 4, 12, 22, 30
Moresco, 12
N
Navarre, Queen of, 31
Needle-point, Classification of, 5
Nilos, Saint, 27
O
Opus sfilatorum, 22
Oriental design, 21
Otho III., 27
P
Palliser, Mrs. Bury, 52, 53
Paris, 16, 37, 50
Passemens, 24
Paten Cover, 37
Peter, Saint, 34
Pizzi, 24, 34
Point à réseau, 15, 37, 49
Point de gaze, 39
Point de neige, 13, 17
Pollen, Mr. John Hungerford, 53
Polygonal Design, 25, 27, 30
Portugal, 39, 47
Potten Kant, 50
Punto in aria, 5, 14, 33
Pyx Veil, 4
R
Ragusa, 12
Rammendo, Punto a, 13, 31
Ravenna, 30
Reale, Punto, 15, 25, 33
Renaissance, 35
Reticello, 5, 17, 23, 29, 31, 33
Ricci Signora Elisa, 53
Riccio Punto, 15, 31
Rilievo, Punto in, 15
Rock, Dr. Daniel, 26, 27, 53
Rosepoint, 17, 36
Rufinus, 26
Russia, 45
Rustafjaell, Mr., 21
S
Sabina, Saint, 24
Sardinia, 45
Sedan, 37
Seguin, Mr., 52, 53
Semé de larmes, 38
Sens Cathedral, 24
Serapis, 26
Sicily, 21, 45
Sistine Chapel, 27
Socrates, 26
Spain, 16, 21, 37, 45, 51
Stuora, Punto a, 13, 28, 32
Swaddling Band, 33
Syon Cope, 22
T
Tela Tirata, 5, 17, 23, 25
Templars, 22
Tönder Lace, 39
Treccia, Punto, 14, 28
Trolle Kant, 48, 52
Tudor Rose, 31
Tuscan Lace, 47
V
Valenciennes, 16, 49, 50
Valetta, 46
Vatican Treasury, 22, 27
Venice Lace, 36, 45
Verhaagen, Mr., 53
Victoria and Albert Museum, 23, 30
Visconti, 35
Y
Yprès, 16, 50
Z
Zeccatello Lace, 47
PRINTED BY BALLANTYNE AND COMPANY
LIMITED, AT THE BALLANTYNE
PRESS, TAVISTOCK STREET
COVENT GARDEN
LONDON
* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes:
The following list shows the corrections made to the text. The first line
shows the text as originally printed, the second line the corrected
version.
IX. Five enlarged Varieties of Réseaux
IX. Five Enlarged Varieties of Réseaux
XXVI. Pyx Veil of Tele Tirata, or Drawn Thread Work
XXVI. Pyx Veil of Tela Tirata, or Drawn Thread Work
XXXIII. A Reticello Pattern worked in very fine Punto in Ario and
XXXIII. A Reticello Pattern worked in very fine Punto in Aria and
CXII. Three Borders of Bobbin-made Lace, with a reseau of Maglia di Spagna
CXII. Three Borders of Bobbin-made Lace, with a réseau of Maglia di Spagna
often used for lace made with a tape, but it
used for lace made with a tape, but it
round the round réseau. _See_ Plate 108.
round réseau. _See_ Plate 108.
lace, in which the fond is really of toile, cut
lace, in which the fond is really of toilé, cut
forth by Rufinus, A.D. 397, and by Socrates A.D. 440.
forth by Rufinus, A.D. 397, and by Socrates B.C. 440.
probably fine punto in aria worked in points, as Plate 30, but it
probably fine punto in aria worked in points, as in Plate 30, but it
called Tonder muslin lace made in Denmark in the eighteenth
called Tönder muslin lace made in Denmark in the eighteenth
for caps; it is caled Gouda lace; the fillings are very well
for caps; it is called Gouda lace; the fillings are very well
[Illustration: PLATE XXVI. PYX VEIL OF TELE TIRATA, OR DRAWN THREAD WORK
[Illustration: PLATE XXVI. PYX VEIL OF TELA TIRATA, OR DRAWN THREAD WORK
One is part of a circula panel or roundel, and the
One is part of a circular panel or roundel, and the
[Illustration: PLATE LXIV. BEAUTIFUL LAPPET OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE A
[Illustration: PLATE LXIV. BEAUTIFUL LAPPET OF NEEDLE-POINT LACE À
parts the toilé result from the passing of very evenly darned threads at
parts of the toilé result from the passing of very evenly darned threads at
Called point d' Argentan, on account of the make of the
Called point d'Argentan, on account of the make of the
[Illustration: PLATE XCI. FLOUNCE OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE A BRIDES IN
[Illustration: PLATE XCI. FLOUNCE OF BOBBIN-MADE LACE À BRIDES IN
_Ypres, 19th century_
_Yprès, 19th century_
[Illustration: CXX. TWO BORDERS OF APPLIQUÉ LACE, ONE WITH A
[Illustration: PLATE CXX. TWO BORDERS OF APPLIQUÉ LACE, ONE WITH A
Angoulême, Marguerite d', 31, 32
Angoulême, Marguérite d', 31, 32
Marot, Clement, 32
Marot, Clément, 32
Point a réseau, 15, 37, 49
Point à réseau, 15, 37, 49
Séguin, Mr., 52, 53
Seguin, Mr., 52, 53