More than one such man came in the middle of the last century, but one

man is pre-eminent, and typical of all the rest, Sir Austen Henry

Layard. Before him one Frenchman, M. Paul Émile Botta, had made a fine

dash on a palace city a dozen miles north of Nineveh, and had opened

wonders such as the world had never seen before. But the man whose

energy was fullest of impulse, whose enthusiasm compelled British

Ambassadors and Ministers and Parliaments to do his bidding, who aroused

the world to the importance of the exploration and disinterment of the

monuments of Babylonia and Assyria, was the Englishman Layard.

He had a youthful passion for adventure, and slender means to gratify

it. I wish you could see him as he is pictured in the volume which gives

the story of his early adventures, before he had settled on his life-work

of exploration. There he stands clad in his Bakhtiyari costume, the

dress of a mountain tribe in Persia which asserted its independence of

Teheran. It is a well-knit frame, fit to endure hardships. He stands

holding the tall matchlock, the curved scimetar by his side, and the

long pistol and the dagger in his belt. Above the yellow shoes and

parti-woven stockings a red silk robe falls to his ankles, and over that

a green silk garment reaches to his knees, and yet over that a shorter

and richly embroidered coat, with open sleeves, is held close about the

body by a wide silken sash woven in the brightest of red and gold, and

holding the weapons attached to his waist. On his head is a low flat

cap, visorless in front, but with a broad bow in place of a feather, all

striped with the richest embroidery, and with a wide tassel of the same

material falling far down his back. But the face, with its short beard

dyed dark with henna, and its blue eyes, is not that of a warrior, but

of a serious scholar or diplomatist. And he needed all the force of

courage and all the arts of diplomacy for the work he had to do.

Layard's early training was in the line of preparation for his life's

work. Much of his boyhood was spent in Italy, where he acquired a taste

for the fine arts, and as much knowledge of them as a child could obtain

who was constantly in the society of artists and connoisseurs. At about

the age of sixteen he was sent to England to study the law, for which he

was destined by his parents. After six years in the office of a

solicitor, and in the chambers of an eminent conveyancer,--for that is

the way that lawyers were educated then,--he determined to leave

England and seek a career elsewhere. He had a relative in Ceylon, who

gave him hopes of securing a position there, and for Ceylon he started.

A friend of his, ten years older, was bound for the same destination,

both fond of adventure, and they agreed to go together, and to go as far

as they could by land instead of taking the long sea journey around the

Cape of Good Hope. Across Europe they passed to Constantinople, through

Austria, Dalmatia, Montenegro, Albania, and Bulgaria; thence across Asia

Minor to Syria and Palestine; thence to Aleppo and down the Tigris to

Baghdad. It was an extraordinary and adventurous journey, often

dangerous; but greater danger was to follow. Layard had learned some

Turkish, and now he spent the long weeks in Baghdad in the study of

Persian; his companion was quite familiar with Arabic. Before they left

England they had received good advice from Sir John MacNeill, the

British representative at the court of the Shah: "You must either travel

as important personages, with a retinue of servants and an adequate

escort, or alone, as poor men, with nothing to excite the cupidity of

the people amongst whom you will have to mix. If you cannot afford to

adopt the first course, you must take the latter." The latter they were

forced to take.

Many a young man has the gift to acquire languages--almost any Oriental

can talk three or four--and the ability to rough it and live on the fare

of the people, though barbarous; and many a man has the spirit of

adventure; but this young man had one peculiar and unusual qualification

that directed him to his future career. As a child, he had read the

"Arabian Nights" with intense delight, with their stories centred about

Baghdad. Then every book of Eastern adventure, every bit of travel in

Syria, Arabia, or Persia that he could find he had eagerly devoured. It

was his day and night's longing that he might visit strange lands of

history and make explorations and discoveries. So wherever he was, he

visited every ruin and tried to copy every inscription. If his companion

would not turn aside to visit some region of renown and danger, he would

go alone and join him later. As they came down the river Tigris in their

boat, they passed the immense mound of Nimroud, and so impressed was

Layard by it that he then, scarce twenty-three years old, resolved that

some day he would search and learn what was hidden under it; but little

did he imagine what wonderful monuments he was to find there only a few

years later.

Without a servant, as poor men, in a caravan of fanatical and hostile

Persian pilgrims returning from the shrines, just travellers trying to

go by land through Persia and Afghanistan to India and Ceylon, they

left Baghdad. It was a time of unusual danger, for the British Minister

had been recalled from the Persian Court, and war with England was

threatened. They were taken for spies, and sent to the presence of the

Shah, and forbidden to follow the route they had chosen and which had

been marked out for them by the Council of the Royal Geographical

Society, to report on rivers and mountains and ruins not yet explored.

They were insulted and robbed, and their lives were often in danger; but

at last they received from the Shah their firmans. Now they separated.

His companion felt that he must go by the quickest route to his

destination; but Layard had no definite date before him, and he was

anxious to perform the commissions of the Geographical Society, and so

he plunged alone into fresh dangers.

But there is no space to tell the rest of the story of his adventures

among the Bakhtiyari, of his copying of inscriptions, of his return to

Baghdad and his decision to give up the plans of life in Ceylon, and of

his return from Baghdad again to Shuster and Persepolis and other

ancient cities of Persia, and his exploration of the Karun River and his

geographical paper on the subject, his opening of British trade, and his

return to Constantinople. At Mosul he found that M. Botta was planning

to explore the mounds across the Tigris that covered ancient Nineveh,

and he warmly encouraged his plans. At Constantinople he visited Sir

Stratford Canning and delivered to him despatches that had been confided

to his care, in view of a threatened war between Persia and Turkey. Here

he was kept in the service of the British Embassy, and intrusted with

important and delicate negotiations and investigations which were so

highly appreciated by Sir Stratford that he kept him as his attaché.

Meanwhile M. Botta had begun his excavations of a palace of King Sargon

at Khorsabad and was sending his reports and drawings to Paris. They

were all sent by way of Constantinople, and, by M. Botta's generosity,

were all seen by Mr. Layard. So deeply was he interested in them, and so

intense was his desire to carry on excavations himself, that he secured

his release from the Embassy, and also a grant of three hundred dollars

from Sir Stratford's own purse, which, with what he could spare from his

own money, would, he hoped, suffice to begin the work, when, if anything

of value appeared, it was trusted that funds would be secured from

English friends of Oriental learning. Thus, six years after leaving

England, Mr. Layard, well equipped in knowledge of the people and in

diplomatic experience, was ready to launch on his great career, which

brought him fame and earned him the post in later years of British

Ambassador at the Porte, which Sir Stratford had held, and--what is far

greater--gave to the world the larger part of its knowledge of the lost

empires of Assyria and Babylonia.

With these few hundred dollars, and contributing every penny of his own

income, in October of 1845, he left Constantinople without companion or

servant, went by steamer to Samsoun, and then as fast as post-horses

could climb or gallop over mountains and plains, he reached Mosul in

twelve days.

Here at last he was fitted for his task, supplied for the accomplishment

of his passion. The Arabs say: "I had a horse, but no desert; I had a

desert, but no horse; now I have a desert and a horse, and shall I not

ride?" His boyhood, with the artists of Italy, and learning the

languages of the continent, had fitted him for his task; then his study

of all the books of Eastern travel, then half a year wandering with a

trained companion through Asia Minor and Syria, scarcely leaving untrod

one spot hallowed by tradition, or unvisited one ruin consecrated by

history, with no protection but his arms, living with the people and

learning their prejudices and customs. Then an irresistible desire had

brought him to the regions beyond the Euphrates, and the mystery of

Assyria, Babylonia, and Chaldea had fascinated him, so that he had

visited the land of Nimrod, seen the site of their old buried capitals,

had been the guest in the tents of Shammar and Aneyzah Arabs, and even

passed on to see the famous forty columns of Chilminar, old Persian

Persepolis, and to penetrate the mountain fastnesses where the

Bakhtiyari maintained a perilous freedom. Never was man better trained

by enthusiasm and experience for his task, and the late discoveries of

M. Botta had inflamed his desire to surpass what his French friend

had done.

His plan was not to begin excavations at Nineveh, opposite Mosul, but

twenty miles south, at the great mound of Nimroud, which bore the name

of the mighty hunter Nimrod. Xenophon and his Ten Thousand had seen and

wondered at its pyramid. There he would be free from the army of

mischievous spectators that would swarm from Mosul, had he selected the

site of Nineveh, and from the constant interference of the Turkish

governor. The Pasha at Mosul was a cruel scoundrel, who was robbing and

killing the people as his whim or greed prompted, and had reduced the

tribes of the neighborhood to a state of terror. Accordingly, Mr.

Layard, who was armed with protecting letters from the British

Ambassador and the Porte, thought it wise to conceal his purpose, let it

be reported that he was going on a hunting expedition; and with a few

tools and a supply of guns and spears, on the 8th of November, 1845,

accompanied only by his cawass, the soldier attendant detailed for the

protection of travellers, a servant, and one laborer, he floated down

the Tigris, and in four hours reached the bourne of his long hopes. He

had the mound, he had the money, and now he would dig.

The Arabs have strange stories of this ruin. The palace, they say, was

built by Athur, the vizier of Nimrod. There Abraham brake in pieces the

idols worshipped by the unbelievers. Nimrod was angry and waged war on

the holy patriarch. Abraham prayed to God: "Deliver me, O God, from this

man who worships stones, and boasts himself to be lord of all kings;"

and God said to him, "How shall I punish him?" and the prophet answered,

"To thee armies are as nothing, and the strength and power of men

likewise. Before the smallest of thy creatures will they perish." And

God was pleased at the faith of his servant, and he sent a gnat that

vexed Nimrod day and night, so that he built himself a room of glass in

that palace that he might dwell therein and shut out the insect. But the

gnat entered also, and passed by his ear into his brain, upon which it

fed, and increased day by day, so that the servants of Nimrod beat his

head continually with a mallet that he might have some ease from his

pain; but he died after suffering these torments four hundred years. And

after him the mound was named Nimroud.

It was dark when Layard and his little company reached the place. They

found near by a few huts occupied by poor Arabs, who had been harried by

the Turkish Pasha. There they slept, or tried to sleep. But the

explorer could not sleep. Hear him:--

"Hopes, long cherished, were now to be realized, or were to end in

disappointment. Visions of palaces under ground, of gigantic monsters,

of sculptured figures, and endless inscriptions, floated before me.

After forming plan after plan for removing the earth and extricating

these treasures, I fancied myself wandering in a maze of chambers from

which I could find no outlet. Then, again, all was reburied, and I was

standing on the grass-covered mound. Exhausted, I was at length sinking

into sleep, when, hearing the voice of Awad, I rose from my carpet and

joined him outside the tent. The day already dawned. The lofty cone and

broad mound of Nimroud broke like a distant mountain on the

morning sky."

Awad, his host, was a little chief among the Arabs, and was engaged to

take charge of the diggers. The first morning he had six Arabs at work,

and found alabaster slabs with cuneiform inscriptions. He was now sure

he would succeed.

It is not necessary to give the diary of his work. To be sure, the

villanous Pasha forbade him to continue, and recalled him to Mosul, but

a new governor was sent from Constantinople, under whom he had no

difficulty. A great palace had been found, and chamber after chamber was

excavated, the walls covered with bas-reliefs and inscriptions. Then

came strange, gigantic lions with human heads, that had been placed by

the old Assyrian king to guard the entrances to his court. What was the

amazement of the Arabs and Turks cannot be told. First, the head was

uncovered. It stood out from the earth, placid and vast. Hear Layard

tell the story. He had been away to visit a neighboring chief:--

"I was returning to the mound, when I saw two Arabs urging their mares

to the top of their speed. 'Hasten, O Bey,' exclaimed one of them,

'hasten to the diggers, for they have found Nimrod himself. By Allah! it

is wonderful, but it is true! We have seen him with our eyes! There is

no God but God!' And both joining in this pious exclamation, they

galloped back to the tent."

Layard hastened to the trench, and there saw what he knew to be the head

of a gigantic lion or bull, such as Botta had uncovered at Khorsabad. It

was in admirable preservation. The expression was calm, yet majestic,

and the outline of the features showed a freedom and knowledge of art

that was scarcely to be looked for at so early a period. Says the

explorer:--

"I was not surprised that the Arabs had been amazed and terrified at

this apparition. It required no stretch of imagination to conjure up the

most strange fancies. This gigantic head, blanched with age, thus rising

from the bowels of the earth, might well have belonged to one of those

fearful beings which are pictured in the traditions of the country as

appearing to mortals, slowly ascending from the regions below. 'This is

not the work of men's hands,' exclaimed Sheikh Abdurrahman, who had

galloped to the mound on the first news, 'but of those infidel giants of

whom the Prophet, peace be with him! has said that they were higher than

the tallest date-tree; this is one of the idols which Noah, peace be

with him! cursed before the flood!' In this opinion all the bystanders

concurred."

The Arabs have a ready explanation for every fresh discovery. When some

years later Mr. Layard's assistant and successor in the work of

excavation, Mr. Rassam, uncovered, at Abu-habba, a remarkable bas-relief

with the figure of the seated Sun-god and three approaching worshippers,

the Arab diggers rushed to him, declaring that they had found Noah and

his three sons, Shem, Ham, and Japhet, and demanded a sheep to make

a feast.

The report of the wonderful discovery of a royal palace, evidently older

than those of Nineveh, with magnificent decorations in alabaster and

cuneiform inscriptions, reached beyond Mosul to Constantinople. Sir

Stratford Canning was delighted with the result of his expedition. He

had a passion for discovery as well as diplomacy, and it is to him that

the British Museum is indebted for the priceless marbles of

Halicarnassus. He now obtained for Mr. Layard a firman, permitting him

to make what excavations he wished. Then the news reached London, and

the British Museum made a grant to support the work. All difficulties

were now removed. Conditions were even more favorable for him than they

are now. There was then no Imperial Museum in Constantinople to which

all objects found must be taken, but those that dug had the right to

carry off their prizes to London or Paris.

To tell the story of the further excavations is unnecessary. It is all

given in Layard's two splendid volumes, "Nineveh and its Remains," and

"Babylon and Nineveh;" and the bas-reliefs, statues, bronzes, ivories,

and inscriptions are magnificently reproduced in great folio volumes.

From Nimroud he went back to Mosul, and there opened the two mounds

opposite of Kuyunjik and Neby-Yunus, the site of old Nineveh. There more

palaces and friezes were found of other kings. Then he went back to

London, closing his successful campaign, more profitable if not more

glorious than those of war, and published the story of his work. Its

effect was marvellous. No such popular book of travels had ever

appeared; for it was a story of adventure, and also of strange

discovery. Mr. Layard had not suspected that he had the literary gift,

but he had it in rare measure. He had gained an inner view of the heart

of tribes, Moslem and Christian and semi-pagan, by his sympathy with

them and his knowledge of their tongues. He had lived in their tents and

huts. He had saved them from persecution by Turkish governors. Their

gratitude to him was beyond words, and he told their story with

affection and enthusiasm. Then his discoveries were in the lands made

historic not only by the campaigns of Xenophon and Alexander, but made

almost sacred by the Bible history. These were the lands whence came the

armies that fought with Israel. These were the kings whose wars are told

in the Jewish records; and the annals of these kings were found in their

palaces, and they gave full accounts of wars of which the Bible had

given the outline. Piety and learning joined to give extraordinary

interest to these discoveries and to this report of them. Mr. Layard

found himself famous, and the monuments he was bringing to the British

Museum were, and still are, the most extraordinary and fascinating in

all its corridors.

Of course, a new grant was made in behalf of the British Museum, and of

course he went back to continue and extend his researches. Now he wished

to go further south, beyond Nimroud to Kalah Shergat, the yet earlier

capital of Assyria; and yet further to Babylon, that he might see and

test the multitude of mounds of ancient Chaldea, the real land of

Nimrod, the seat of Eden, and the Tower of Babel, far more ancient than

any one of the three capitals of Assyria. While he did scarce more than

to visit and report on the Babylonian mounds, his diggings in Nineveh

itself were of vast importance, for there he found the library of

Asshurbanabal, on clay tablets, which has given us our chief knowledge

of the literature and learning of the ancient East. In 1852 he returned

to England to publish his "Monuments of Nineveh," and left the further

exploration to his able lieutenant, Mr. Rassam, and to a noble

succession of explorers who should follow, and to a no less noble line

of scholars who should interpret the inscriptions and recover the

history of the nations; so that we now know more exactly the history of

Babylonian and Assyrian kings, and from more authentic records, and more

completely the social condition and business life of the countries, than

we do the history of Greece, or the life of the Greeks even of the time

of Pericles, and that, too, for a period of three thousand years.

To illustrate this fact, let us take the black obelisk of Shalmaneser

II., found by Layard at Nimroud. It is a column of basalt seven feet

high and about two feet wide at the base, from which it narrows

slightly, until near the top it is reduced by three steps. On the four

sides is engraved in five rows of bas-reliefs, twenty in all, the

pictured history of the royal conquests, the submission of kings, and

the presentation of tribute. Above and below, and between, in two

hundred and ten lines, was cut an inscription which explained the

figures, and gave a full historical and, of course, contemporary and

official account of the glorious events of the royal reign. Not a line

was defaced; at the British Museum it can be seen to-day as perfect as

when engraved twenty-seven centuries ago. Other monuments of Shalmaneser

have been found. One is a great monolith with a portrait of the king in

all his fine array, and with one hundred and fifty-six lines of text.

Another is a series of splendid bronze plates that covered great wooden

gates, on which, in repoussé work, were pictures of the royal victories,

and inscriptions explaining them. The Bible tells us of the rivalries

and jealousies of Ahab and Jehu, kings of Israel, and Benhadad and

Hazael, kings of Damascus. How surprising it is to find here not only

the story of the successive campaigns of Shalmaneser against these same

kings, the number of their chariots and soldiers, but to see pictured

before us the tribute sent by Jehu. We learn that Shalmaneser reigned

from 859 to 825 B.C., and we have the record of all his successive

campaigns, the first twenty-six of which he led in person. There is not

another country of which, before the invention of printing, we have so

minute a history; and all had been lost, except the mention of a name or

two, whether historical or legendary we hardly knew, until Layard and

his fellow-explorers opened the mounds of Assyria.

But enough for Layard. He is only one, though the principal one, of all

the explorers of the buried records of the empires of the Tigris and

Euphrates. And Babylonia and Assyria are not the only countries that

history required us to explore. Greece and its neighboring states and

islands have not even yet been fairly investigated. Much of Asia Minor

is still a virgin field. Syria and Palestine have hardly been scratched

with the spade. More has been done in Egypt, but more yet is to be done.

And when we go into the further east of Persia and Old Elam, not to

speak of the yet farther east of Central Asia, now just beginning to

yield strange treasures to daring travellers, and ancient India and

China,--how ancient we know not at all,--there is field for centuries of

further research. For we must go back past empires and kingdoms and

tribal conditions to the very beginning of the human race on the earth,

even if so it be, to the first _Pithecanthropus_ which men of science

tell us was the link which connected _Homo sapiens_ with the race of

primitive simians. And all this, it may well be, is preserved in

undecaying records just a few feet under the ground, if one only knew

where to dig for it; nay, we now know where to dig for the most and best

of it, and we only await the Stratford Cannings, who will give the

money, and the Austen Layards, who have the enthusiasm for the work.

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