THE STARK MANSION
There is no more fascinating study, both for historian and architect,
than that of colonial houses: homes that represent an epoch-making
period in our country's history. They are the dividing line between the
early days and the period when we ceased to be colonists, the time when
we secured a firm footing in the land we have made our country.
[Illustration: PLATE LXII.--The Stark Mansion, Dunbarton, N. H.]
One of these old houses stands not many miles from Concord, New
Hampshire. This is the Stark mansion at Dunbarton, a colonial house
which is of especial interest for the reason that under its roof are
gathered the relics of five famous families: the Starks, McNeils,
Wentworths, Morrises, and Pierces. This house is one of the few old
landmarks which still remain in the possession of the descendants
original patentees. More than almost any other house which has historic
connections, this one has been made famous in American history through
two of its owners,--General John Stark and his son, Major Caleb Stark.
One leaves the little railroad station at East Weir, New Hampshire and
drives along country roads to visit the historic place, which is
situated about a mile from the heart of the country village. The grant
itself comprises over one hundred acres, in the midst of a fertile
country, and includes woodland and meadow, orchards and gardens, the
latter in the immediate vicinity of the house. The home lot is in the
very center of the estate, and here the old-time details have been most
carefully preserved.
The grounds are entered through a wide road, lined on either side by
stately trees, whose branches, meeting overhead, form a shaded driveway.
Just before the boundary line is reached, one sees at the right-hand
side of the road a small wooden structure. This is the little old
schoolhouse, where in the days long gone by the neighbors received their
early education. As a memento of those early days, it is still kept
carefully preserved, but unoccupied.
[Illustration: PLATE LXIII.--Old Mill, Stark Homestead.]
The fine country drive stretches on ahead, winding in and out under the
leafy archway. At a sharp turn of the road, is seen at the left,
ensconced among the trees, a picturesque old mill. This was erected
in 1760 for the grinding of grain, being the fulfillment of one
condition of the grant. Here the farmers from far and near brought their
loads of corn to be ground, and it ran uninterruptedly until 1889, when
its voice was stilled. The stream which once ran merrily over the rocks,
turning the great wheel, is now silent, while the mill is fast falling
into decay. Nature has done much to make this one of the most
picturesque parts of the estate.
Keeping to the left, a sweep of the road takes us to the old cemetery,
laid out, as was the custom of the early days, on every large estate. It
is surrounded by an iron fence and is fringed with trees, among which is
a staunch willow which was brought as a slip from the grave of Napoleon
I. It was fittingly planted here, and taking kindly to its new home,
lends additional interest to the historic estate.
Inside the cemetery all of the Stark family lie buried, with the
exception of the emigrant ancestor, Archibald Stark. Passing through the
gates and up a flight of stone steps, a second enclosure is reached.
Here lies Caleb Stark, so famous in American history, and over his grave
a monument is erected to his memory.
Leaving the cemetery and following the wide stretch of road which winds
in and out, with stone walls on either side, we drive through the heart
of a woodland in the direction of the house. The road was bounded by
monarchs of the forest,--tall, lofty trees, many of which bear the mark
of the broad arrow and were known as "King's Trees," being marked in
this manner in the early days, when they were set apart for use in the
royal shipyard. Fortunately the king was cut down by One greater than an
earthly forester, and they still stand to-day in all their
glory,--monuments of the past and ornaments of the present.
In and out winds the wide avenue, between the drooping branches of these
fine old trees, until it reaches the colonial mansion, which is a full
half mile from the wooded entrance. The house is hidden from view, until
the home plot is reached, by the dense foliage. It stands in the center
of a large, open space showing fine lawns and old-fashioned gardens,
bordered by more venerable trees, some of which are worth more than
passing notice. For instance, a certain black walnut, which Major Stark
transplanted from Ohio to its new home, took root here and is now grown
to be one of the finest trees on the estate. Another, a beautiful elm,
was set out by Miss Charlotte Stark, the last owner of the grant.
Ancient button woods, veterans scarred and faithful, still stand as
sentinels to guard the house, while mulberry trees shade the opposite
side of the road. At the rear of the house is the garden, bright with
old-fashioned flowers and fragrant with the odor of the blossoms our
grandmothers loved.
Across the street are the barns. Here is stored many an interesting
relic, including a saddle with silver mountings that was used by
President Franklin Pierce during his term of service in the Mexican War.
In the corner is the queer, old-fashioned, two-wheeled chaise used by
Madam Stark for their annual drive to Portsmouth. In the house is still
preserved the old-fashioned green calash which was worn by Miss Harriet
Stark on this all-important trip.
The house was erected in 1785 by Major Caleb Stark and is known as the
Mansion House. It was modelled after the manor houses of England,
combining stately grandeur and picturesque repose. It is built of wood,
two stories and a half in height, showing dormer windows, a gambrel
roof, and a large, two-storied ell.
Everywhere an old-time atmosphere prevails--from the time one enters
the grounds until the front door is reached. This entrance door is a
curious one, being three inches thick and bearing a handsome brass lock
and knocker which were brought over from England by Major Stark. Over
the door is a row of old bull's-eyes, specimens of early American glass,
green in coloring and rough inside where they were taken from the
molding bar.
[Illustration: PLATE LXIV.--Hallway, Stark Mansion; Parlor, Stark
Mansion.]
The door swings open on large, wrought-iron strap hinges, which extend
two feet each way, and one enters the long hallway. This apartment
divides the house into two parts and ends in a duplicate door at the
rear, which opens upon the old-fashioned garden. During the summer-time
this door is left open, and here, in the cool recess of the hall,
accompanied by the droning of bees and the sweet scents from the posy
beds in the garden below, it is a favorite custom to serve tea in the
long, warm, summer afternoons.
Flowers, books, old-fashioned furniture, and pictures of the choicest
are everywhere. A fine portrait of General John Stark, painted in 1830
by Samuel F. B. Morse, the inventor of the telegraph, is hung on the
wall at the right. Facing the door another beautiful portrait is seen.
This is of Miss Charlotte Stark and was done by Jane Stuart, the
daughter of Gilbert Stuart. A third picture, which is a fitting
companion for the others, is a portrait of the great American statesman,
Daniel Webster, done by Lawson.
Curious old prints, priceless in value, have their appropriate places on
the wall, and beside them are queer old miniatures. Hepplewhite tables
and chairs are artistically arranged to form the furnishing of this old
hall, while the crowning piece of furniture is the old roll-top desk,
which has drawers underneath. This, as did many of the other ornaments
and furnishings found in this old homestead, belonged originally to
Robert Morris, the financier of the Revolution.
The hall opens at the right into an old-fashioned parlor, where hangs a
portrait of the mother of President Pierce. On the table is a
Baskerville Bible, in two volumes, illustrated by valuable prints by old
masters and also once owned by the "Great Financier." A set of Dresden
china, originally in the possession of the first French Minister to
America, and presented by him on his return to France to Mr. Morris, is
kept here. A large mirror, once the property of Robert Morris, fine old
paintings, including those of Governor and Mrs. Pierce, and of
Lieutenant John and Mrs. McNeil, painted over a century ago, a brace of
flint-lock pistols carried by General Stark at the battle of Bennington,
a magnificent, gold-headed cane with the inscription "Robert Morris,
from his friend, John Hancock" are among the relics shown in the
interesting room.
Opening out from the parlor is the den of Mr. Charles Morris Stark, the
present owner, who is of the sixth generation, his maternal grandfather
being Robert Morris. This room is also an interesting apartment,
exemplifying his life as a sportsman.
Opposite the parlor is the library, which is fitted with bookcases
filled with queer and valuable old books, while cosy seats are placed in
the windows. The hearth of stone, as originally made, is still shown in
the fireplace. In this room is placed a cane given to Major Stark for
valiant conduct in the defense of Fort William, and another, made from
the bone of a whale and headed with ivory, is also kept here. Statuettes
in bronze of Napoleon Bonaparte, brought from France and presented to
Major Stark by Lafayette, as well as General McNeil's mahogany desk, are
other mementoes of the past.
Everywhere historic bits are displayed. Especially noteworthy are a fine
old mezzotint of the Duke of Wellington, and one of the Morris mirrors.
[Illustration: PLATE LXV.--Dining Room, Stark Mansion.]
The bright and sunny dining-room, which leads off the library, ends with
a wide fireplace, over which are hung portraits, painted from life, of
Daniel Webster and Jackson. The house is filled with the most beautiful
pieces of old colonial furniture, a rare old sideboard and grandfather's
clock, which were the property of Governor Pierce, being found in the
dining-room. Both of these stood originally in the governor's house at
Hillsboro, New Hampshire.
Opposite the sideboard is a wonderful old wine cooler which belonged to
Robert Morris, while above it hangs a speaking likeness of the man
himself, painted by Gilbert Stuart. This is indeed a rare and beautiful
treasure, as is the framed letter below it, which is addressed to Mrs.
Morris, bearing the date 1790, and signed by both George and Martha
Washington.
Rare old china, a full set of Tokio, together with cut glass presented
to Governor Pierce when he was the chief magistrate of New Hampshire,
are among the treasures in this room. Throughout this old house there is
not a piece of furniture or a bit of china that is not rich in historic
associations. Every room has its large old fireplace, fitted with old
brass and iron fenders and accessories, each of unusual shape. The
hearths are filled with birch logs and pine cones.
Ascending the odd old staircase at the end of the entrance hall, which
winds by low treads to the second-story floor, one finds, lining the
walls, wonderful old ancestral portraits, not only of inestimable value,
but of great public interest.
There are several chambers in this upper story, one of which is of
special note, since General Lafayette slept here during his visit to
Major Stark in 1824. All the furniture in this room, including the high
four-poster, is the same that furnished the room when visited by the
distinguished guest. It has been left unchanged, and is held to-day in
great reverence by the survivors of the Stark family.
The house has always been in the family since its erection and was
occupied by Charlotte Stark previous to its coming into the possession
of the present owners. Miss Charlotte was one of Major Stark's favorite
daughters.
This house, more than most colonial houses, is of abounding interest.
Everywhere within its four walls are treasures which could not be found
elsewhere. It was the home of the brave Indian fighter, John Stark, the
friend of Washington, and later on of Major Caleb Stark, the friend of
Lafayette, who retired at the close of the Revolution, at the age of
twenty-four. Few, if any colonial mansions are filled with such
veritable treasures,--and there are still fewer houses where from five
distinguished families have been gathered relics of such extraordinary
interest, as in this home of long ago.