HOW TO DO YOUR OWN STAMPING AND MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERNS.
In the following chapter are given full instructions for dry and wet
stamping, explaining how to make stamping powder, how to mix white
paint for stamping dark goods and black paint for stamping light
goods.
The articles necessary are a sheet of writing paper and a piece of
transfer paper. The transfer paper can be made by rubbing white paper
with a composition consisting of two ounces of tallow, one-half ounce
powdered blacklead, one-quarter pint linseed oil, and sufficient
lampblack to make it of the consistency of cream. These should be
melted together and rubbed on the paper while hot. When dry it will be
fit for use.
In order to make a perforated pattern of any engraving, procure a
piece of writing paper larger than the design to be traced and put a
piece of transfer paper on the writing paper, then place both sheets
directly under the engraving and pin the three sheets together at one
end, having the transfer paper between and dark side facing the
writing paper. You then take a quill with a fine point (a knitting
needle will do nicely) and without leaning too hard go over all the
outline of the engraving. You must be careful not to press your
fingers on the engraving, as this would cause a deposit of powder the
same color as the transferring paper on the writing paper. Now remove
the transfer paper and you have the design accurately traced and the
pattern is ready to be perforated. Lay a couple of folds of velvet or
felt on the table, place the pattern on this, and with a needle of
medium size or tracing-wheel prick out the pattern, being careful to
follow the outline closely and make the perforations quite close.
MECHANICAL ENLARGEMENT OF DESIGNS.
The simplest way is to enlarge by the eye, as the artists do. One
method is to divide the whole design into squares and rule off the
paper to be enlarged in corresponding squares of larger size. Each
portion within the square is then exactly reproduced, copying the
portion in the smaller square. For embroidery designs especially we
should think this would be very good.
DRY STAMPING.
This is done by a process known as pouncing. The process is as
follows: Place the pattern (rough side up) on the material to be
stamped, placing heavy weights on the corner to keep it from slipping;
then rub the powder over the perforations with the pouncet or
distributor described below till the pattern is clearly marked on the
material. This can be ascertained by lifting one corner of the pattern
slightly. Then remove the pattern carefully, lay a piece of thin paper
over the stamping and pass a hot iron over it. This melts the gum in
the powder and fastens the pattern to the material. The iron should be
as hot as possible without scorching the cloth. Should the heat change
the color of the material, iron it all over. Do not do any stamping by
this process on a hot or damp day if it can be avoided. Keep the
powder in a cool, dry place. In stamping with light-colored powder,
the best way to fasten it is to hold the back of the cloth against the
stovepipe or the face of the iron. French stamping is better, however,
for all dark materials. To take the powder up on the distributor, have
a tin plate with a piece of woolen cloth glued on the bottom, sprinkle
a little powder on the cloth, and rub the distributor over it, taking
care to shake off all the powder you can--enough will remain to stamp
the pattern clearly.
TO MAKE A DISTRIBUTOR.
Take a strip of fine felt almost an inch wide (a strip from an old
felt hat is as good as anything), roll it up tightly into a roll,
leaving the end flat, and rub the end over a piece of sand paper to
make it smooth and even.
TO MAKE BLUE POWDER.
Take equal parts of gum damar and white rosin and just enough Persian
blue to color it. Mix well together.
Other colors are made the same, using for coloring chrome yellow (for
light-colored powder), burnt sienna, lampblack, etc. Black powder is
improved by adding a little blue to it.
TO MAKE WHITE POWDER.
Take one ounce white lead; half ounce gum arabic, in the impalpable
powder; half ounce white rosin, in the fine powder. All well mixed.
SUPERIOR DARK BLUE POWDER.
One ounce white rosin; one half ounce gum sandarac; one half ounce
Prussian blue, in fine powder. Mix all thoroughly.
FRENCH INDELIBLE STAMPING.
This is the best process for all dark materials; in fact, this and the
blue powder are all that will ever be needed. By this process a kind
of paint is used instead of powder, and a brush instead of a pouncet.
Place the pattern on the cloth, smooth side up if you can (though
either side will work well), weight the pattern down as in stamping.
Rub the paint evenly over the perforations, and it will leave the
lines clean, sharp and distinct. After the stamping is done, the
pattern must be cleaned immediately. This is done by placing the
pattern on the table and turning benzine or naphtha over it to cut the
paint and then wiping the pattern dry on both sides with an old cloth,
or, better still, with common waste--such as machinists use to clean
machinery; this is cheap and absorbs the paint and naphtha quickly.
Hold the pattern up to the light to see if the holes are all clear; if
they are not, wash it the second time. Do not use the pattern for
powder immediately after it has been washed; let it dry a short time,
otherwise the moistened gum will clog the perforations.
TO MAKE THE PAINT.
Take zinc white, mix it with boiled oil to about the thickness of
cream, add a little drying, such as painters use. Keep in a tin pail
(one holding about a pint is a good size); have a piece of board cut
round, with a screw in the center for a handle, to fit _loosely_ into
the pail; drop this on the paint and it will keep it from drying up.
Add a little oil occasionally to keep the paint from growing too
thick, and it will always be ready for use.
THE BRUSH.
Take a fine stencil brush (or any brush with a square end), wind it
tightly with a string from the handle down to within one half inch of
the end; this will make it just stiff enough to distribute the paint
well. Keep the brush in water, to keep it from drying up, taking care
to wipe off the water before using.
THE CARE OF PATTERNS.
New patterns, before being used, should be rubbed over on the rough
side with a smooth piece of pumice stone; this wears off the burr and
makes the stamping come out cleaner and finer. When patterns are so
large that they have to be folded, iron out the creases before using
them. After using the patterns for powder stamping, snap the pattern
to shake the powder from the perforations. After using the patterns
for paint stamping they should be washed thoroughly with naphtha until
the perforations are all perfectly clear. Keep the naphtha away from
the fire. After the pattern has been washed, do not use it for powder
until it has had time to thoroughly dry, otherwise it will gum up the
holes and spoil the pattern.
If these directions are carefully followed the stamping will always be
satisfactory.--_Popular Art Instructor._