THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CUDDAPAH--DESCRIPTION OF THE
DIFFERENT VILLAGES, AND ARRIVAL AT HYDRABAD--DESCRIPTION OF
HYDRABAD, AND DEPARTURE THEREFROM--ARRIVAL AT NERMUL.
On the morning of the 27th, I proceeded on my route over the chain
hills, with which the town of Cuddapah is surrounded; the roads are
very good, but the steepness of the hills made it very fatiguing: in
six hours I arrived at Batoor, a distance of twelve miles. Batoor is a
large village, the houses are built of mud and bamboo, and form a
motley group; the only protection they have from the number of robbers
which infest that part, is a small fort, about two hundred square
feet; the ramparts are about fourteen feet in thickness, and at each
angle a small gun is mounted upon a pivot, about three feet from its
walls; the fort in general is very much out of repair; the inhabitants
are Hindoos, and are very indolent; the land is quite barren and free
from cultivation. The cruelty with which Europeans in general act
towards these poor captives is really disgraceful, and cannot but be
censured by all who cherish the least trait of humanity with their
breast.
When an European passes through any of the villages, and is in want of
any coolies, or porters, to carry his baggage, he orders his guards to
press every man he can meet with, and compel him to carry whatever his
barbarous protector chooses he should labour under, and if there is
not sufficient men, to press the women, without considering whether
they have any family to provide for. It has been frequently known,
that the mother has been forced to leave her infant babe from her
breast upon the bare earth to provide for itself, to carry the baggage
of a merciless enemy, whose only payment, after going fifteen or
sixteen Indian miles, is, if she complains, a _bambooing_, (that is a
caning,) and, perhaps, after she gets home, which cannot be till the
next day, she finds her poor infant dead for want.
We passed through Parmunsa, and arrived at Moorkandah, which is a
small village, and in a very ruinous condition, as it is at the foot
of the Ghaut; the inhabitants are but few in number, and are
principally Brahmins, consequently provisions are very scarce; on my
requesting the cutwall, or headman of the village, to bring some
fowls, he refused, and said there were none in the place, although I
repeatedly heard the crowing of a cock. The impudent manner in which
the man answered me, made me doubt the truth of what he said; in order
to ascertain it, I took two peons and my gun and went round the
village, and found a full grown cock; I caught it, and ordered it to
be carried to my tent and killed; the natives by this time were in
arms, and before any of us were aware of it, they had secured the
peons and surrounded me, demanding the cock: when they were informed
of its death, they all began to weep and raised a most lamentable cry,
and said it was devoted to their god, and that the heaviest curses
would follow me. I expected their denunciations would have paid for
it; but in that I was greatly mistaken, for they demanded payment for
it; and to avoid any injury to my peons, I offered them one rupee,
considering that it would be equal to the price of eighteen cocks; but
they disdainfully refused it, and said that they must offer gifts to
their god to appease his anger, and to pay their sadura to intercede
in their behalf. I remonstrated with them; but to no avail, as they
would not take less than ten rupees. I tried all in my power to make
my escape from them; but when they perceived my intentions, they drew
their scimitars, and held them to my breast, and said, provided I did
not accede to their offer, they would not spare the lives of my peons
nor myself, as they could not get it replaced for forty times that
sum, which was presented to them by their rajah. The price I
considered to be extortionate, (but I paid it,) as fowls are sold in
the different villages round that neighbourhood for one penny each,
sheep for ten-pence, and every other article in proportion.
On the following morning, at a very early hour, I crossed the Ghaut;
in the centre there is a very great declivity on each side the road,
about two hundred feet in depth, and the Ghaut is very steep, and
covered with flint-stone, which made it very difficult for the horse
and cattle to pass: it is about twelve miles in length, and at the
foot of it is the village of Badnapore. The inhabitants are very
peaceable, and the village is close on the borders of Khristnah river.
We made all possible haste to cross, which was effected by means of a
large round basket, which is continually whirling round in the river.
The river is about a quarter of a mile in width, but the heavy current
carried us nearly two miles down; and owing to the exertions of the
cattle, we encamped close on its banks. On the following day we passed
Pungall-hill fort, which is situate on the summit of a very steep
mount, and is built of mud, and large enough to contain ten thousand
troops; it is only accessible on the north-east angle, which is easily
blockaded in case of necessity. In five days we arrived at Hydrabad.
Hydrabad lies about 350 miles north-west of Madras; the houses are
built of brick, and generally run four and five stories high. The
inhabitants are principally Mahometans interspersed with Hindoos.
The Mahometans will not suffer a Christian to touch their cooking
utensils or fuel by any means, and if such should be done, they
consider them as polluted, and they will instantly break and destroy
them; and while they are in the act of eating, if touched by any one
of another sect, they will not swallow what is even in their mouth,
but will throw it out, and go through a regular purification by
washing and prayer.
After I had been at Hydrabad a few days, I joined a small party to
view the interior: while we were taking breakfast, a cavalcade of
elephants came up to the door with a number of peons. After we had
mounted them we proceeded through the south gate into the city; the
streets were particularly dirty, owing to there being no drains. The
town is supplied with water by a well about two hundred feet in
circumference.
On our entrance into the minister's house we were surprised at seeing
a battalion of female sepoys (soldiers) presenting arms to us. We
stood to see them go through their military manoeuvres, which they
did with dexterity; we then proceeded towards the house, which is
built entirely of cedar-wood, but in a very ordinary manner, owing to
the number of apartments: every room is carved in a beautiful and
masterly style, from the ceiling to the floor. This ornament is very
common among the lower classes, who have the devices of their gods
carved on the doors of their houses. The apartments form a complete
square, and in the centre is a stone tank. We next proceeded to a
gallery of looking-glasses; the only one worthy of notice is about
eighteen feet long and sixteen wide; there is likewise a whole length
painting of Earl Moira, Governor-General of India. We afterwards
proceeded to the palace of the Rajah: on our entrance into the inner
court, we were agreeably surprised at seeing a quantity of tea-cups,
saucers, &c. of various colours, placed against the wall in form of
elephants, tigers, serpents, &c. in the most superb manner; in the
centre is a large tank, containing a great quantity of salmon-trout. I
had the honour of being introduced to the Rajah's sons, but his
Highness was not present.
After having obtained a guard of twelve sepoys and two naigues, I
proceeded on my route, and in a few days arrived at Nermul.
Nermul is a large and beautiful city, surrounded by a fort, and is
about three miles in circumference, and is on a rising ground, 205
miles north-north-east of Hydrabad, and in the heart of the jungle,
it is under the command of Major Woodhouse. The inhabitants are
principally Moors.
I pitched my tent in the middle of a burying-ground, by the side of a
running stream, and owing to the fatigue I had experienced, I now
resolved to sojourn for two days. This place suited my present state
of mind.
My attention was soon attracted by a magnificent tomb, and upon
examining the inscription, it proved to be a rajah's. The gardens were
ingeniously planned, and a thousand elegant decorations designed; but,
alas! their intended possessor is gone down "to the place of sculls!"
While I am recollecting, many, I question not, are experiencing the
same tragical vicissitude. The eyes of the Sublime Being, who sits
upon the circle of the earth, and views all its inhabitants with one
incomprehensive glance, even now behold as many tents in affliction as
overwhelmed the Egyptians in that fatal night when the destroying
angel sheathed his arrows in all the pride of their strength; some
sinking to the floor from their easy chair, and deaf even amidst the
piercing shrieks of their distracted relations; some giving up the
ghost as they retired, or lay reclined under the shady harbour to
taste the sweets of the flowery scene; some as they sail with a party
of pleasure along the silver stream and through the laughing meads!
nor is the grim intruder terrified though wine and music flow around.
"Those who received vast revenues, and called whole lordships their
own, are reduced to half a dozen feet of earth, or confined in a few
sheets of lead! Rooms of state and sumptuous furniture are resigned
for no other ornament than the _shroud_, for no other apartment than
the darksome _niche_! Where is the star that blazed upon the breast,
or the glittered sceptre? The only remains of departed dignity are the
weather-beaten hatchment. I see no splendid retinue surrounding this
solitary dwelling. The princely equipage hovers no longer about their
lifeless master, he has no other attendant than a dusty _statue_;
which, while the regardless world is as gay as ever, the sculptor's
hand has taught to weep."