"After having with great difficulty and danger, worked our way between
huge blocks of ice, for two weeks, we at last, on the 16th of July, at
noon, came in sight of Nova Zembla, a spot very frequently visited by
whalers, and steered our course along the western shore, as our object
was to sail round the island, in order to make our way towards the
east. But although it was now the middle of summer, we were much
impeded by floating masses of ice, which covered the sea in every
direction, as far as the eye could reach, and obliged us to wait until
an opening offered, through which we might sail. We arrived at last at
an island which from the number of crosses the whalers have there set
up, is called the "Isle of Crosses." Here we anchored to take in a
supply of fresh water. Heemskerk took one of the boats and went
ashore to visit the crosses. I accompanied him, and we were walking
along, not dreaming of danger, when suddenly we came upon a couple of
bears, who were hid near by. As we were totally unprovided with
weapons, we were not a little alarmed at the sight. The bears, as is
customary with these animals, raised themselves on their hind legs, to
find out what was going on, as they can smell further than they can
see. As soon as they became aware of our presence, they came running
towards us. Our hair now actually stood on end at the frightful danger
we ran, and we started off for our boats as fast as we could go. But
Heemskerk, who had far more presence of mind and courage, stood still,
and swore that he would put a boat hook he held in his hand, into the
first man who attempted to fly. 'If we run away one by one in this
way,' cried he, 'some of us will most assuredly be torn to pieces, but
if we stand still and raise a shrill cry all together, the bears will
be frightened and retreat.' We followed his advice, and it turned out
exactly as he predicted, so that whilst the bears stood stupified, we
regained our boat. This shows how good a thing presence of mind is;
fear always rushes into danger sooner than courage.
"After much suffering and danger, we at last reached the northern
extremity of the island, and began to double it. Some of the men, who
had been sent on shore to ascend a mountain, and report what was
visible from it, surprised us with the joyful information that they
believed the sea to be free from ice towards the east. But, alas, the
next day showed how much they had been deceived; we had not sailed
but a few miles further, when we encountered a huge bank of ice, which
rendered further progress in that direction impossible. As the snow
storm every hour raged more fiercely, and the cold grew more intense,
we determined to retrace our course along the eastern shore, in order
to reach the continent, there in some secure harbor to wait for more
favorable weather. But we had only gone a short distance in this
direction, when the ice closed in all around us, and on the
twenty-sixth of August we remained firmly fixed in it. All our
endeavors to float our vessel again, were in vain, and we very nearly
lost three of our best men in the attempt; the ice on which they were
standing suddenly gave way, but fortunately they were near the vessel,
and very active, so they seized hold of the ropes which hung down from
the yards, and clambered on board. It was an anxious moment for all
parties, for they would most assuredly have been driven away with the
ice and lost, had they not been saved by the aid of God, and their own
activity.
"The ice was often in motion, but did not break up; but masses of it
piled themselves up in all directions. In consequence of this, our
vessel was hoisted up as if by pulleys, and then thrown on its side
with such a fearful crash, that we expected every moment to see it go
to pieces. We found it necessary to bring the boat and shallop to
land, as in case of the ship's going to pieces, we depended on them
for our safety. We also stored away, under a tent hastily constructed
of sails, provisions, ammunition, and useful tools. The sea was now
covered with ice as far as the eye could reach; part of it swam about
in huge masses, whilst the rest was smooth and firm as a frozen
mill-pond. The cold was now so intense, that we found it impossible to
keep ourselves warm under the upper deck, where the kitchen was, but
were obliged to remove the stove to the hold, and were almost
smothered by the smoke in consequence.
"Some of the men, who had been sent further into the country, to
ascertain its character, brought back the welcome news that there was
a stream of excellent fresh water not far distant, and that along its
banks lay piles of drift wood. As we considered it possible, after
this discovery, to pass the winter here, we gave up the desperate plan
we had formed, of making our way back to the continent in our two
miserable boats, and commenced erecting a roomy and substantial hut.
While thus occupied, we were much troubled by the increasing cold, and
the hungry bears, who lay in wait for us in every direction. In order
to give you a correct picture of our hardships, and miserable life, I
will endeavor to relate to you the most note-worthy events as they
occurred day by day, and in this way to keep the thread of my
narrative unbroken.
"September 1st.--This day we began to build our hut, and transported
to it, on sledges, sufficient drift wood to be used for fires during
the winter, which we piled up in convenient places. Whilst part of the
men were occupied in this arduous task, the rest remained on board the
vessel to prepare the meals, and keep a watch for the safety of those
on shore. One day we received a visit from three huge bears; two of
them came towards the ship, but the third remained hidden behind a
piece of ice. It happened that a tub of salt meat, which we intended
to soak in fresh water, was standing on the shore; one of the bears
ran up to it, and putting his muzzle in, was about to help himself to
a piece, when a shot struck him in the head so cleverly that he fell
dead without a groan. It was curious to see how the second bear stood
gazing at his motionless companion, with a stupified look, and then
walked round him, trying to discover what was the matter with him.
When he found that he could make nothing of him, he left him, and went
away. But we had no idea of trusting the fellow, and as we wished to
go ashore, we armed ourselves with muskets and pikes, in case he
should come back, which he pretty soon did. He raised himself on his
hind legs, in a threatening manner, but one of us shot him in the
stomach, which caused him to sink down with a howl on all fours again,
and make off as fast as he could go. We now took out the entrails of
the dead bear, and placed him on his legs, in order that he might be
frozen, and so preserved until spring, when we intended to take him
home with us. Some time afterwards, one of the men was chased by a
bear, and happened to come by this spot. His pursuer was close on his
heels, but as soon as he saw his immovable companion, who was covered
with snow, his front paws alone being visible, he stopped short, and
approached him. In this way the sailor gained sufficient time to reach
the ship, and alarm us with the cry of 'a bear! a bear!' We hastened
on deck, but not one of us could see, so much had our eyes suffered
with the thick smoke in which we had been obliged to remain during
the bad weather, in order to escape being frozen. Our aid, however,
was not needed, as the bear, when he saw the number of his opponents,
made off in great haste.
"September 24th.--On this day we began to put up the beams of our hut,
as the idea of being obliged to pass a winter here, filled us with
great anxiety; but as the vessel was now firmly embedded in the ice,
and we saw no prospect of getting it free again until the return of
fine weather, we were obliged to make a virtue of necessity, and
submit quietly to our hard fate. We tore up a part of the deck of our
vessel, and made a roof for our hut of it; then we plastered the walls
with pitch, and when, on the second of October, the building was
finished, instead of putting on the roof, as is customary, a pole or
bush, we erected a kind of staff, made of hard snow. We now took our
sleds, and drew tools and provisions to it; but the cold was so
intense that the beer casks burst, and their contents became a solid
mass of ice. After we had, for greater security, drawn the boats on
shore, and turned them upside down, we betook ourselves to our hut,
and arranged every thing within it as well as we were able.