_Anno a verâ Religione divinitûs cum veteri Libertate Genevæ
restitutâ, et quasi novo Jubilæo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et
forsi insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum
Primari Tigurini æquo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum
venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo
adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod felix esse velit D.O.M. tanti,
beneficii monumentum consecrârunt, anno temporis ultimi_
CC[~C~].I[~C~].XXXIV.
In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up as they were
removing earth in the fortifications.
A little out of the town is a spacious field, which they call Campus
Martius; and well it may be so termed, with better reason, than that at
Rome at present (which is no more a field, but all built into streets),
for here on every Sunday, after the evening devotions, this precise
people permit their youth to exercise arms, and shoot in guns, and in the
long and cross bows, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed to be
as dexterous as any people in the world. To encourage this, they yearly
elect him who has won most prizes at the mark, to be their king, as the
king of the long-bow, gun, or cross-bow. He then wears that weapon in his
hat in gold, with a crown over it made fast to the hat like a brooch. In
this field, is a long house wherein their arms and furniture are kept in
several places very neatly. To this joins a hall, where, at certain
times, they meet and feast; in the glass windows are the arms and names
of their kings [of arms]. At the side of the field, is a very noble
Pall-Mall, but it turns with an elbow. There is also a bowling-place, a
tavern, and a trey-table, and here they ride their menaged horses. It is
also the usual place of public execution of those who suffer for any
capital crime, though committed in another country, by which law divers
fugitives have been put to death, who have fled hither to escape
punishment in their own country. Among other severe punishments here,
adultery is death. Having seen this field, and played a game at mall, I
supped with Mr. Saladine.
On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the French
mode, in a gown with a cape, and his hat on. The Church Government is
severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and Beza, who set
it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English sectaries of
that denomination. In the afternoon, Monsieur Morice, a most learned
young person and excellent poet, chief Professor of the University,
preached at St. Peter's, a spacious Gothic fabric. This was heretofore a
cathedral and a reverend pile. It has four turrets, on one of which
stands a continual sentinel; in another cannons are mounted. The church
is very decent within; nor have they at all defaced the painted windows,
which are full of pictures of saints; nor the stalls, which are all
carved with the history of our Blessed Savior.
In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen exercise in Mars'
Field, where the prizes were pewter-plates and dishes; 'tis said that
some have gained competent estates by what they have thus won. Here I
first saw huge ballistæ, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they
formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they were placed in
frames, and had great screws to bend them, doing execution at an
incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and musket,
rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as busy with the carbine I
brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot, I found them go
into a long house, and cleanse their guns, before they charged again.
On Monday, I was invited to a little garden without the works, where were
many rare tulips, anemones, and other choice flowers. The Rhone, running
athwart the town out of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which, in
imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg, and it has a
church of the same name. On two wooden bridges that cross the river are
several water-mills, and shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers;
between the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very ancient
tower, said to have been built by Julius Cæsar. At the end of the other
bridge is the mint, and a fair sun-dial.
Passing again by the town-house, I saw a large crocodile hanging in
chains; and against the wall of one of the chambers, seven judges were
painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but one hand; I
know not the story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well
furnished and kept.
After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair structure; in the
lower part are the schools, which consist of nine classes; and a hall
above, where the students assemble; also a good library. They showed us a
very ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French, and a
MS. in the old Monkish character: here have the Professors their
lodgings. I also went to the Hospital, which is very commodious; but the
Bishop's Palace is now a prison.
This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women, for, even at this
distance from the Alps, the gentlewomen have somewhat full throats; but
our Captain Wray (afterward Sir William, eldest son of that Sir
Christopher, who had both been in arms against his Majesty for the
Parliament) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Saladine's
daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not be prevailed on to
think on his journey into France, the season now coming on extremely hot.
My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles of gold to my
host, and five to my honest doctor, who for six weeks' attendance and the
apothecary thought it so generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he
presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written with
his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much observed, and I bless God
passed the journey without inconvenience from sickness, but it was an
extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the
craggy ways.
5th July, 1646. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it could not be
brought back against the stream of the Rhone. We were two days going to
Lyons, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near the
town down a very steep declivity of water for a full mile. From Lyons, we
proceeded the next morning, taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night at
Feurs. At Roanne we indulged ourselves with the best that all France
affords, for here the provisions are choice and plentiful, so as the
supper we had might have satisfied a prince. We lay in damask beds, and
were treated like emperors. The town is one of the neatest built in all
France, on the brink of the Loire; and here we agreed with an old fisher
to row us as far as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers,
early enough to see the town, the Cathedral (St. Cyre), the Jesuits'
College, and the Castle, a palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it
nobly built.
The next day we passed by La Charité, a pretty town, somewhat distant
from the river. Here I lost my faithful spaniel Piccioli, who had
followed me from Rome. It seems he had been taken up by some of the
Governor's pages, or footmen, without recovery; which was a great
displeasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities.
[Sidenote: ORLEANS]
The next day we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of which I
reckon my share came to little less than twenty leagues. Sometimes, we
footed it through pleasant fields and meadows; sometimes, we shot at
fowls, and other birds; nothing came amiss: sometimes, we played at
cards, while others sung, or were composing verses; for we had the great
poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and some other ingenious persons.
At Orleans we abode but one day; the next, leaving our mad Captain behind
us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced that, after so many disasters and
accidents in a tedious peregrination, I was gotten so near home, and
here I resolved to rest myself before I went further.
It was now October, and the only time that in my whole life that I spent
most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses; but I soon recovered
my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and
Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and such
exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in much reputation
among the sober Italians.
28th January, 1647. I changed my lodging in the Place de Monsieur de
Metz, near the Abbey of St. Germains; and thence, on the 12th of
February, to another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment,
which cost me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented a course of
Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure operating upon most of the
nobler processes. March 3d, Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the
lute, though to small perfection.
In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes; for which I was four times
let bleed.
22d May, 1647. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes and plate, to the
value of three score pounds; but, through the diligence of Sir Richard
Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose
lady and family I had contracted a great friendship (and particularly set
my affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them, obtaining of the
Judge, with no small difficulty, that the process against the thief
should not concern his life, being his first offense.
10th June, 1647. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I went
to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had his court,
to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his chaplains (since Dean of
Westminster, Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisbury), that he would
accompany me to Paris, which he did; and, on Thursday, 27th of June,
1647, he married us in Sir Richard Browne's chapel, between the hours of
eleven and twelve, some few select friends being present. And this being
Corpus Christi feast, was solemnly observed in this country; the streets
were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and strewed with flowers.
10th September, 1647. Being called into England, to settle my affairs
after an absence of four years, I took leave of the Prince and Queen,
leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady and
prudent mother.
4th October, 1647. I sealed and declared my will, and that morning went
from Paris, taking my journey through Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St.
Vallerie, where I stayed one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some
affairs, and for which cause I took this circle to Calais, where I
arrived on the 11th, and that night embarking in a packet boat, was by
one o'clock got safe to Dover; for which I heartily put up my thanks to
God who had conducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to me
through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I arrived at London the
next day at evening, being the 2d of October, new style.
[Sidenote: WOTTON]
5th October, 1647. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my
brother, and on the 10th to Hampton Court where I had the honor to kiss
his Majesty's hand, and give him an account of several things I had in
charge, he being now in the power of those execrable villains who not
long after murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Sergeant Hatton's at Thames
Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to London.
14th October, 1647. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent (since my
house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my wife's uncle, who had charge of it
and the estate about it, during my father-in-law's residence in France.
On the 15th, I again occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple.
9th November, 1647. My sister opened to me her marriage with Mr.
Glanville.
14th January, 1647-48. From London I went to Wotton to see my young
nephew; and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurst], to visit my brother Richard.
5th February, 1648. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the cockpit, after there
had been none of these diversions for many years during the war.
28th February, 1648. I went with my noble friend, Sir William Ducy
(afterward Lord Downe), to Thistleworth, where we dined with Sir Clepesby
Crew, and afterward to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, and
rounds of plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden,
who has some good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian
hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water colors, by Breughel,
which I bought for him.
26th April, 1648. There was a great uproar in London, that the rebel army
quartering at Whitehall, would plunder the City, on which there was
published a Proclamation for all to stand on their guard.
4th May, 1648. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agreement between his
Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the Surrey men addressed the Parliament
for the same; of which some of them were slain and murdered by Cromwell's
guards, in the new palace yard. I now sold the impropriation of South
Malling, near Lewes, in Sussex, to Messrs. Kemp and Alcock, for £3,000.
30th May, 1648. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich being
at the head of them. Their first rendezvous was in Broome-field, next my
house at Sayes Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to
Colchester, where was that memorable siege.
27th June, 1648. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in Worcestershire, of
my brother George, for £3,300.
1st July, 1648. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head,
to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter.
10th July, 1648. News was brought me of my Lord Francis Villiers being
slain by the rebels near Kingston.
16th August, 1648. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my
brother, Richard, who married the daughter and coheir of Esquire Minn,
lately deceased; by which he had a great estate both in land and money on
the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and bridegroom were,
was overturned in coming home; but no harm was done.
28th August, 1648. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the celebrated
follies of Bartholomew Fair.
16th September, 1648. Came my lately married brother, Richard, and his
wife, to visit me, when I showed them Greenwich, and her Majesty's
Palace, now possessed by the rebels.
28th September, 1648. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of Arundel,
and returned to Wotton.
31st October, 1648. I went to see my manor of Preston Beckhelvyn, and the
Cliffhouse.
29th November, 1648. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and Lady Gerrard,
christened my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother, George Evelyn,
by my Lady Cotton, his second wife. I presented my niece a piece of plate
which cost me £18, and caused this inscription to be set on it--