Is it worth while, before coming, to read about the places one intends
to visit?
It is more than worth while! It is necessary! That which one will
comprehensively absorb during any journey depends largely upon what one
has read. This is especially true of foreign travel.
The books I have named in my letters will be of assistance to you.[A]
* * * * *
And now you ask me to sum up my foreign experiences. Your request
reminds me of the schoolmaster who gave out as the subject of a prize
composition, "The World and Its Inhabitants."
In all seriousness, this has been the most delightful and at the same
time the most miserable year of my life. _Comprenez-vous?_
They said the stars shone with a softer gleam;
It seemed not so to me!
In vain a scene of beauty beamed around—
My thoughts were o'er the sea.
LONGFELLOW, _Outre Mer_,
Chapter on _Pilgrim's Salutation_.
I am not unmindful of all the opportunities I have had to see God's
beautiful world, and I think little has escaped me that has been in my
line of vision.
Of all countries, I like England best—yes, England! dear, green,
blossoming England; of all cities, Paris and Florence; of all churches,
St. Mark's in Venice; of picturesque places, Killarney's lakes and the
Lake of Lucerne; of awesome grandeur in nature, the Giant's Causeway and
on the heights of Switzerland; of man's work in art and architecture
combined, Fontainebleau, Versailles, the Bargello in Florence and
Raphael's Stanza and Loggie in the Vatican; of collected art in
sculpture, that found in Rome; of collected art in painting, that found
in the galleries of Florence; of the sublime in nature, the sunsets on
the Mediterranean, moonlight on the Arno, the Alpine glow on the Rigi,
and sunrise over the Acropolis; of all peoples, the upper class of Irish
and English. And the happiest moments spent among this array were those
when reading my letters from home.
I have been treated with charming cordiality everywhere and have met
clever, cultured people, both foreign and American. I have seen—and
heard—a few Americans, the sort whose bragging brings the blood to the
face, but I am happy to tell you they have been few.
I should advise any one to come here with the intention of enjoying and
not of criticising. If things are desired as they are in America, stay
there.
One comes to a foreign country to see things as they are, and, most of
all, to see things which we have not.
The science of comprehensive observation should be taught in every
school, for few know how to observe understandingly.
Culture comes high, at the easiest, and in no way can one absorb so much
or so well as by observation while traveling.
GIBRALTAR:
Soon after the last letter was posted, a note and a cable were handed
me by the purser.
The cable was from Ruth announcing her marriage and removal to Porto
Rico. The letter, from Mrs. F. telling of her husband's complete
recovery and that his business interests were taking them to Japan,
where they would make for themselves a home. Her hurried notes to me
have borne only her initials. This letter she signed, for the first
time, with her Christian name—the same as my own. The spelling is
identical. Odd, is it not?
FOOTNOTE:
[A] See index of authors and books.
INDEX OF PLACES
WITH NAME OF HOTEL OR PENSION
I rather would entreat thy company
To see the wonders of the world abroad.
SHAKSPERE, _Two Gentlemen of Verona_,