CHAPTER VI.

PATENTS FOR TANNING.

The following described processes for Tanning have been patented at

different periods since 1849.

The first may be denominated Hibbard’s patent, issued to Mr. Hibbard, of

Henrietta, N. Y.

A patent for a modified process in tanning leather, which is specially

applicable to light skins, but may be used in all kinds of tanning.

The gist of the invention consists first, in a modified process of

unhairing the skins, by a composition of lime, potash and salt, by which

the process is very much shortened; and secondly, by combining what is

called the process of _plumping_ with that of _tanning_. It is alleged

by the patentee that the process of plumping, which consists in the use

of acids, to open the pores of the skins, is like that of rising dough

by yeast; namely, that after the pores have once been fairly opened, if

the tanning process is not commenced immediately, they will soon begin

to close; as dough once raised, if not transferred at the proper time to

the oven to be baked, will fall, and an inferior bread will be the

result.

The process of tanning therefore, as set forth by the inventor, consists

in the combination of the plumping and the tanning process, so that as

soon as the acids have acted to open the pores of the skins, the tannin

present in the liquor, shall enter and perform its part in the

operation.

The next may be described as Towle’s process, or improvement in tanning.

Issued Oct. 7, 1851.

What I claim as my invention or discovery, as a new and useful

improvement, and desire to secure by letters patent, is the use of

arsenic or arsenious acid, substantially in the manner and for the

purposes herein set forth; the peculiar properties of arsenic, by which

it tends to suspend the natural tendency of the animal fibre to

decomposition upon the extinction of animal life, are well known, and of

course they are not patentable; but their application to the processes

of tanning, and otherwise preparing skins and hides for useful purposes,

by which they are rendered stronger and more durable, is believed not to

have been heretofore known and used.

I do not, therefore, intend to limit my claim to any particular mode or

period of using the article; but I shall apply it in such form, or in

such strength of solution, as the nature of the case may require, to

effect the objects named. Workmen should guard against the absorption of

the poisonous qualities of the arsenic, while immersing or handling the

skins in the liquor, by using tools or wearing India-rubber gloves.

After the skins are taken out of the liquor and rinsed thoroughly, the

danger ceases.

N. C. TOWLE.

A patent for the following method of tanning was issued March 22, 1853,

to Roswell Enos & Bela T. Hunt, of St. Charles, Ill.

We claim the process of tanning with the use of lime, salt, bran, sumac,

and cutch, or any other tanning in room of cutch, substantially in the

manner described, whereby we commence tanning, at the same time that we

commence reducing, as the salt and bran overpowers the lime, the tan

takes the place of the lime, and converts the hide into more perfect

leather, and in less time than can be made in any other way.

Hides are not liable to get damaged by our process, as we do not use an

article that is injurious to leather.

It is not on the materials used that we claim letters patent, but on the

manner of applying them to the hide, as set forth.

The next is to Roswell Enos. Improvement in the process of tanning

leather for soles. Patented July 18, 1854.

The improvement and claim consist in commencing the tanning operation

upon the sides, by the use of a salted infusion of sumac, and then

completing said tanning operation by the repeated use of the strong oak

or hemlock bark liquor, substantially as set forth. It is stated that

solid sole leather may be produced by this process in an unusually short

time.

APPENDIX.

JENKINS’

NEW AND IMPROVED HEATER AND PRESS,

FOR MAKING CEMENTED BOOTS AND SHOES.

This “Heater” is a new invention recently introduced, to heat the soles

and shoes of the most delicate stock for cementation. The heat is

applied only to the cemented surfaces, which require uniting. This

process prevents the hardening and contracting of the sole leather and

uppers. The old “cooking” process greatly damaged the stock, and

frequently spoiled it utterly, as it was simply a matter of pure luck

whether the stock was heated to a proper degree or crisped by

over-heating. This “Heater” can be regulated to the exact degree of heat

desired. They are manufactured in a portable form for such as wish to do

a limited business. The heat from a single lamp, or hot water, or steam

can be used.

_Jenkins’ Press_, patented Sept. 7, 1858, is designed to hold every

description of shoes and soles, in their proper position, while being

pressed and cooled. The thinnest soles and taps, double-soles or welts,

from the finest ladies’ shoes to coarse brogans or kip boots are held

firmly by this Press. They are cooled in a very short time and receive

equal pressure on the bottom of the shoe or its edges, together with the

clamping apparatus holding the shoe, soles and stock. The Press can also

be used as a “Heater” when desired, by filling the base containing the

water for cooling the shoe, with hot air, steam, or hot water, thus

securing all the heat that is required for melting the cement, and for

uniting the various parts of the shoe. The shoe can then be placed in a

cold water-press and cooled. It is then ready for the finisher. By the

use of this Press, all outer soles, middle soles, lifts, &c., &c., may

be cut with dies; this process is of obvious advantage to the

manufacturer, as all thin or thick soles will not require paring off, or

may have their edges finished before they are put on, thus preventing

all cutting of the uppers in paring off, which item is of great

importance to the manufacturer.

VALUABLE AND RELIABLE RECIPES

FOR

GUTTA-PERCHA AND INDIA-RUBBER CEMENT,

FOR BOOTS AND SHOES. ALSO,

VARNISHES, GUMS AND GLUES.

The following highly important recipes have been arranged and selected

with great care. Some of them are original discoveries, the result of

personal test and application, and are entirely reliable. Others have

been compiled from the highest sources, and are submitted with full

confidence in their virtues. The cements for boots and shoes of

India-rubber and gutta-percha are of great practical utility, and the

information we thus furnish we regard as almost invaluable to the boot

and shoe manufacturer. The varnishes are also equally important, and may

be relied upon as the best yet discovered. The Water-Proof Cement and

Glues are simple in their ingredients and easily prepared.

_Bisulphuret of Carbon_ is remarkable for its great solvent powers,

readily dissolving substances which no other fluid can so effectually

influence, such as sulphur, phosphorus, iodine, etc. It has, however, a

fetid odor, and is inflammable, burning with a blue flame. It has been

used as a solvent of India-rubber, but for the common cements of rubber

and gutta-percha the triple refined camphene is preferable. The rubber

cement has long been used for cementing shoes in Lynn, Roxbury, and

other large shoe manufacturing towns in Massachusetts. It is easily

made, by dissolving it in pure camphene and grinding it in a paint mill;

many manufacturers mix it in large portions of lampblack, sulphur, zinc

and charcoal. The charcoal is remarkable for its indestructibility,

resisting the most intense heat; the fact is, that the more carbon an

organized body contains, so much the less liable is it to decomposition,

it is for this reason that it is by some regarded as much better than

lampblack, for rubber cements. It is ground into the rubber in large

quantities, making a paint or mixture of any required tenacity. The

Bogarbus eccentric rubber mill is most commonly used for grinding rubber

cements for shoes, or for spreading upon cloth. Rubber cements are

_only_ good for cementing shoes when the stock is perfectly _free_ from

oil or grease, and kept _free_ from such contact; a condition which is

hardly possible. All oleaginous substances are _sure_ to decompose

rubber in all its common preparations, vulcanized or not. Gutta-percha

cements, on the contrary, are not easily affected by oleaginous

substances, unless too much heat is used in perfecting the union of the

various parts of a boot or shoe. Calf skins are frequently “stuffed” to

full, thus causing the grease to mix with the cement when first applied

in a heated state. To prevent this result, use proper care in the

application of the cement; see that it is not too hot, also be careful

that the shoe itself is not too hot. These precautions well observed,

will result in a cementation which will resist the oil in the leather

until it is completely worn out.

_Gutta-percha cement_ is made by dissolving it in triple refined

camphene. Take from four to five times its weight of camphene, place it

into a common glue kettle, boil it on a stove, or by a gas or spirit

lamp, as is most convenient; always keeping the water around the vessel

to prevent ignition; boil until it is completely dissolved, then strain

it, if it is required, and it is ready for use. Always apply the cement

warm. If too thick to spread easily with a brush, reduce it with

camphene. Heat and mix by stirring the compound well together.

A HARD BRILLIANT BLACK VARNISH FOR BOOT AND SHOE EDGES AND HEELS.

Take three ounces shellac, one ounce sandarach, reduce them to a coarse

powder, add one half ounce of lampblack, place them in a glass vessel,

into which pour a pint and a half of the best alcohol; cork tight, and

frequently shake the vessel to hasten solution. This varnish will retain

its brilliancy for years. It may be spread with a sponge or brush. When

it is used for upper leather add half a pint of alcohol and one ounce of

turpentine or an ounce of gummastic.

By adding a small portion of sandarach varnish to the common sponge

blacking it will make it brilliant and hard. By adding a small portion

India-rubber dissolved in triple refined camphene it renders the

blacking elastic and water-proof, and useful for boot and shoe uppers,

etc.

_Asphaltum_ is a smooth, hard, brittle, black substance, which breaks

with a polish, melts easily when heated, and, when pure, burns without

leaving any ashes. It makes a cheap and brilliant varnish for boot and

shoe heels, by dissolving it in triple refined camphene. It should be

made thick so as to spread with the finger or a brush.

_India-rubber_ has been highly extolled for a varnish. Dissolve in five

times its weight of triple refined camphene. By keeping it a few days,

after it is cut fine, then boil one ounce of this solution in eight

ounces of “drying” linseed oil, for a few minutes; strain the solution

and use it warm.

WATER-PROOF CEMENT.

Take of the best glue four ounces, of isinglass two ounces, and dissolve

them in mild ale over a slow fire, in a common glue kettle, to the

consistence of strong glue, when one ounce and a half of well boiled

linseed oil must be gradually added, and the whole be well mixed by

stirring. When cold and made into cakes, it resembles India-rubber. When

wanted for use dissolve a piece of it in a proportionate quantity of

ale. This cement is applicable to all joints of wood, to join

earthen-ware, china, glass. It is an excellent cement for leather, for

harness, bands for machinery, &c. The joints of these are to be prepared

as if for sewing, the cement to be applied _hot_, laying a weight upon

each joint as it is made, in which state it is to be left six hours,

when the joints will be found nearly as firm as if they were of an

entire piece. By adding a little tow to the above, you have an excellent

cement for leaks in casks, &c.

SEED-LAC VARNISH.

Take three ounces of seed-lac, and put it, with a pint of spirits of

wine, into a bottle, of which it will not fill more than two-thirds.

Shake the mixture well together, and place it in a gentle heat, till the

seed-lac appears to be dissolved: the solution will be hastened by

shaking the bottle occasionally. After it has stood some time, pour off

the clear part, and keep it for use in a well-stopped bottle. The

seed-lac should be purified before it is used, by washing it in cold

water, and it should be in coarse powder, when added to the spirit.

This varnish is next to that of copal in hardness, and has a

reddish-yellow color: it is, therefore, only to be used where a tinge of

that kind is not injurious.

SHELLAC VARNISH.

Take five ounces of the best shellac, reduce it to a gross powder, and

put it into a bottle in a gentle heat, or a warm, close apartment, where

it must continue two or three days, but should be frequently well

shaken. The lac will then be dissolved, and the solution should then be

filtered through a flannel bag; and, when the portion that will pass

through freely is come off, it should be kept for use in well-stopped

bottles.

The portion which can only be made to pass through the bag by pressure,

may be reserved for coarse purposes.

Shellac varnish is rather softer than seed-lac varnish, but it is the

best of varnishes for mixing with colors to paint with, instead of oil,

from its working and spreading better in the pencil.

OF GLUE.

To prepare glue, it must be steeped for a number of hours, over night,

for instance, in cold water, by which means it will become considerably

swelled and softened. It must then be gently boiled, till it is entirely

dissolved, and of a consistence not too thick to be easily brushed over

wood.

When glue, by repeatedly heating it, has become of a dark and almost

black color, its qualities are impaired; when newly melted, it is of a

light ruddy brown color, nearly like that of the dry cake held up to the

light; and while this color remains, it may be considered fit for almost

every purpose. Though glue which has been melted is the most suitable

for use, other circumstances being the same, yet that which has been the

longest manufactured is the best. To try the goodness of glue, steep a

piece three or four days in cold water; if it swell considerably without

melting, and when taken out resumes, in a short time, its former

dryness, it is excellent. If it be soluble in cold water, it is a proof

that it wants strength.

A glue which does not dissolve in water, may be obtained by melting a

common glue with the smallest possible quantity of water, and adding by

degrees linseed oil rendered drying by boiling it with litharge; while

the oil is added, the ingredients must be well stirred to incorporate

them thoroughly.

A glue which will resist water, in a considerable degree, is made by

dissolving common glue in skimmed milk.

Finely lixiviated chalk added to the common solution of glue in water,

constitutes an addition that strengthens it, and renders it suitable for

boards, or other things which must stand the weather.

A glue that will hold against fire or water, may be prepared by mixing a

handful of quick-lime with four ounces of linseed oil: thoroughly

lixiviate the mixture, boil it to a good thickness, and then spread it

on tin plates in the shade; it will become exceedingly hard, but may be

dissolved over a fire, as ordinary glue, and is then fit for use.

TO MAKE PORTABLE GLUE.

Take one pound of the best glue, boil and strain it very clear; boil

likewise four ounces of isinglass, put it in a double glue-pot, with

half a pound of fine brown sugar, and boil it pretty thick; then pour it

into moulds; when cold, cut and dry them in small pieces. This glue is

very useful to draughtsmen, architects, &c., as it immediately dilutes

in warm water, and fastens the paper without the process of damping.

TO MAKE GLUE THAT WILL RESIST MOISTURE.

Dissolve gum sandarach and mastic, of each two ounces, in a pint of

spirit of wine, adding about an ounce of clear turpentine. Then take

equal parts of isinglass and parchment glue, made according to the

directions in the preceding article, and having beaten the isinglass

into small bits, and reduced the glue to the same state, pour the

solution of the gums upon them, and melt the whole in a vessel well

covered, avoiding so great a heat as that of boiling water. When melted,

strain the glue through a coarse linen cloth, and then put it again over

the fire, adding about an ounce of powdered glass.

This preparation may be best managed by hanging the vessel in boiling

water, which will prevent the matter burning to the vessel, or the

spirit of wine from taking fire, and indeed it is better to use the same

method for all the evaporations of nicer glues and sizes; but, in that

case, less water than the proportion directed, should be added to the

materials.

ANOTHER METHOD.

A very strong glue, that will resist water, may be also made by adding

half a pound of common glue, or isinglass glue, to two quarts of skimmed

milk, and then evaporating the mixture to the due consistence of the

glue.

TO MAKE PARCHMENT GLUE.

Take one pound of parchment, and boil it in six quarts of water, till

the quantity be reduced to one quart; strain off the fluid from the

dregs, and then boil it again till it be of the consistence of glue.

The same may be done with glovers’ cuttings of leather, which make a

colorless glue, if not burnt in the evaporation of water.

A VERY STRONG COMPOUND GLUE.

Take common glue in very small or thin bits, and isinglass glue: infuse

them in as much spirit of wine as will cover them, for at least

twenty-four hours. Then melt the whole together, and, while they are

over the fire, add as much powdered chalk as will render them an opaque

white.

The infusion in the spirit of wine has been directed in the recipes

given for glue; but the remark on the use of it in one of the preceding

articles will hold good also in this, and the mixture may be made with

water only.

TO MAKE COMPOUND GLUE.

Take very fine flour, mix it with white of eggs, isinglass, and a little

yeast; mingle the materials; beat them well together; spread them, the

batter being made thin with gum-water, on even tin plates, and dry them

in a stove, then cut them out for use. To color them, tinge the paste

with Brazil, or vermilion for red; indigo or verditer, &c., for blue;

saffron, turmeric, or gamboge, &c., for yellow.

TO MAKE ISINGLASS GLUE.

This is made by dissolving beaten isinglass in water by boiling, and

having strained it through a coarse linen cloth, evaporating it again to

such a consistence, that, being cold, the glue will be perfectly hard

and dry.

A great improvement is made in this glue by adding spirit of wine or

brandy after it is strained, and then renewing the evaporation till it

gains the due consistence.

TO MAKE ISINGLASS SIZE.

This may also be prepared in the manner above directed for the glue, by

increasing the proportion of the water for dissolving it, and the same

holds good of parchment size. A better sort of the common size may be

likewise made by treating cuttings of glovers’ leather in the same

manner.

NEW WATER-PROOF CLOTH.

According to a recent statement of M. Payen, a chemist of some note,

cloth is rendered water-proof by the aid of alum and sugar of lead,

without the aid of India-rubber or gutta-percha, or any other gums or

oils. The process given is very simple, and is claimed to render any

species of tissue water-proof. “Dissolve two pounds and a half of alum

in four gallons of water; dissolve, also, in a separate vessel, the same

weight of acetate of lead in the same quantity of water. When both are

thoroughly dissolved mix the solutions together, and when the sulphate

of lead, resulting from this mixture, has been precipitated to the

bottom of the vessel in the form of a powder, pour off the solution, and

plunge into it the tissue to be rendered water-proof. Wash and rub it

well during a few minutes, and hang it in the air to dry.”

When dry, the fabric or cloth so treated will repel rain and moisture,

but allow the air or perspiration to pass through it.

Immerse dry timber in a strong solution of alum, and dry it in a kiln,

the warmer the better, and we will warrant it to be the best and

cheapest substance for preserving wood from decay and burning. To those

who are acquainted with the nature and effects of alum, they know what a

great heat alumina can stand, and alum when deprived of its water by

strong heat, does not easily combine with it again, by any common means.

Therefore, the reasonableness of the foregoing statements.

By washing wood with strong soap suds, allowing it to dry, and then

washing it with a strong solution of alum, a most excellent water-proof

coating is the result.

Make up a weak solution of soap containing a very small quantity of

glue, and immerse paper in it until it is wet through. Now take it out,

dip it into a solution of alum, and dry it.

The alum, gluten, gelatine, and soap unite together, and form an

insoluble compound, which coats every fibre of the textile fabric, and

when dry repels water like the natural oil in the feathers of a duck.

There are various substances which are soluble in water singly, but when

combined form insoluble compounds, and _vice versa_. Alum, soap, and

gelatine are soluble in water singly, but form insoluble compounds when

united chemically. Oil is insoluble in water singly, but combined with

caustic soda or potash it forms soluble soap. Such are some of the

useful curiosities of chemistry.

TO RENDER CANVAS WATER-PROOF.

Take 7 lbs. of soap and dissolve it in two gallons of water, and while

at the boiling heat add 3½ lbs. of the sulphate of zinc (white

copperas). The sulphuric acid of the salt combines with the alkali of

the soap, and the oxide of the salt combines with its oil and forms an

insoluble metallic soap, which, when cold, rises to the surface and has

the appearance of a white hard mass. This is afterwards re-boiled to

purify it. The next step to be taken is to boil 2⅛ gallons of linseed

oil along with one pound of potash until it assumes a soapy appearance.

The whole is now boiled along with two pounds of fine animal charcoal

and five quarts of water, which purifies the mixture, after an hour’s

boiling, when the whole is filtered and is of a clear color. About one

pound of sugar of lead (acetate) and one pound of rosin is mixed with

the oil, and boiled for one hour. Into this mixture is stirred at a

boiling heat, 2 lbs. of the metallic soap described above, and after it

is dissolved, about two quarts of India-rubber dissolved in turpentine

is added, and this completes the making of the mixture. This is put on

to the canvas with a brush at the heat of 160° Fah. Two coats will be

found sufficient to make it water-proof. More however may be applied.

Each coat should be allowed to dry before the other is put on. If

copperas be employed in this mixture, it will make it of a brown color,

and cobalt a blue.

To make leather water-proof, take equal quantities of the metallic soap

and raw linseed oil, mix them together, and place the liquid in at a

heat of 225° and suffer it to cool gradually. The leather should be

dried in the atmosphere, when it will be perfectly pliable. Any quantity

of the above may be made, so as the proportions are maintained.

This is a first rate composition for the purpose stated, and one to

which painters should give peculiar attention, so should the

manufacturers of glazed and patent leather.

JAPANNING LEATHER.

In November, 1838, William Gates, of Hanover, N. Y., received a patent

for preparing and applying elastic japan to leather, to produce the kind

now known by the name of “glazed leather.” Two quarts of linseed oil

were boiled until the yellow scum disappeared, and two ounces of umber

and one of litharge were added and boiled for an hour and a half. The

fire was then withdrawn, and all sediment allowed to settle, after which

the clear liquor was run off. Eight ounces of India-rubber in shreds

were then heated in a close vessel with two quarts of turpentine, and

the two quarts of prepared linseed oil described were added, and the

whole kept boiling until the India-rubber was dissolved, when eight

ounces of asphaltum were added. This constituted the japan for the

leather. It was put on the leather with a sponge or brush and allowed to

dry, which it did rapidly. It was then rubbed down with pumice stone,

then another coat laid on, and so on successively, like varnishing and

polishing mahogany or rosewood. This method of japanning leather is now

public property.

GUM.

This word stands for a number of substances which, when dissolved in

suitable liquids, possess a powerful adhesive property, and the common

and well-known gum-arabic may stand as a type of the class. It is the

product of an acacia, and was originally imported into Europe from

Barbary and Morocco. In its purest condition, it forms white or rather

yellowish masses, which are destitute of any crystalline structure, and

break with a shell-like fracture. Its solutions are wrongly called

_mucilage_, which is an entirely different substance. Gum-arabic

dissolves in cold water, from which the pure gummy soluble principle can

be precipitated by alcohol and by basic acetate of lead. Arabin is

composed of 42.1 per cent. of carbon, 6.4 per cent. of hydrogen, and

51.5 per cent. of oxygen, which, by a curious chemical coincidence, is

exactly the composition of crystallized cane sugar, and it illustrates

the fact, that among organic bodies, substances of the same ultimate

composition may have very dissimilar properties.

Another gum is _mucilage_, very abundant in linseed, in the roots of the

mallow, in salep, and in the fleshy roots of the orchis and other

plants. It is soluble in cold water, but is less transparent than

gum-arabic, and it is precipitated by the neutral acetate or sugar of

lead.

_Gum Tragacanth_ is chiefly composed of a kind of mucilage to which the

name of _bassorin_ has been given, and which does not dissolve in water,

but simply assumes a gelatinous aspect. Caustic soda or potash will

dissolve it. The principle use to which this gum is put, is in the

manufacture of marbled paper, where it forms the bath on which the

colors are thrown, and from which they are taken up by the paper.

_Cerasin_ is the insoluble portion of the gum of the cherry tree, and is

nearly like _bassorin_. Mr. Schmidt has determined the composition of

these various substances, and has found them all more or less allied to

starch, invariably containing hydrogen and oxygen, the proportions in

which they form water, and all when treated with acids yield grape

sugar.

The jelly of fruits or _pectin_ is closely related to the gums, but as

yet chemists have not paid much attention to it, and consequently much

that is said of it is merely conjectural.

GUM ARABIC CEMENTS.

Gum arabic, dissolved in as small quantity of water as may be, and

diluted to a proper consistence with gin, or any proof spirits, forms a

very useful cement for all purposes where gum-water is commonly used,

the spirit preserving it from becoming putrescent. As the spirit

evaporates, more should be added. It should be stirred and mixed

together at the time of using. If plaster of Paris be added to

gum-water, it makes a cement useful to ladies in filigree works.

Gum ammoniac added to the solution of gum-arabic in proof spirits very

much improves the cement. It answers very well for joining broken glass

and ornamental articles of porcelain.

DIRECTORY.

In order to enable strangers and merchants from abroad, as well as those

residing in New England, to readily find some of the leading houses in

Boston representing the various branches in the BOOT AND SHOE AND

LEATHER TRADE, also some of its collateral helps, in the way of

Important Inventions, Agencies, &c., we have inserted Advertisements and

Cards of a few among the many that we know to occupy highly respectable

and reliable positions. Our space is necessarily limited, and we

therefore present but a brief list, yet sufficiently large to represent

every important interest, also some of the most valuable Labor-saving

Machines and Inventions, which are of _great practical utility to the

manufacturer_.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

VULCANIZED RUBBER SOLES.

This Soling has been growing in favor with the public for the past few

years; and recommending itself as it does, for its

ECONOMY, DURABILITY AND COMFORT,

and as a great preserver of health, being perfectly WATER PROOF,

deserves general introduction to the people.

It is manufactured in sheets about thirty inches wide, and from

one-sixteenth to three-sixteenths of an inch thick, suitable for the

thinnest slipper or the heaviest boot.

Its application is perfectly simple. Cement for putting it on, being

furnished by the same manufacturers.

PRICE:

=SOLING= 65 cents per pound,

=CEMENT=, in boxes, No. 1, $9.00; No. 2, $4.50; No. 3, $3.00 per doz.

DISCOUNT from the above prices made to the trade.

MANUFACTURED AND SOLD BY THE

BOSTON BELTING CO.,

Corner Summer and Chauncy Sts., Boston.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

GROVER & BAKER’S

SEWING MACHINES,

for family Sewing and Manufacturing,

18 Summer Street, Boston; 495 Broadway, New York; 730 Chestnut Street,

Philadelphia.

[Illustration]

From the very flattering manner in which our Machines have been received

by the public, (resulting in the sale of upwards of TWENTY THOUSAND,) we

are led to believe that our endeavors to manufacture a _reliable_

machine have been appreciated. We take this opportunity to remark that

this policy will be unchanged, and that every machine sold by us we

shall not hesitate to warrant in every respect.

* * * * *

[Illustration]

AMERICAN ELASTIC CLOTH CO.,

MANUFACTURERS OF

ELASTIC CLOTH,

FOR

GORES IN CONGRESS BOOTS,

WARRANTED to wear as well, and give as good satisfaction as any other

Elastic goods ever made, and THIRTY PER CENT. CHEAPER.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

GEO. N. DAVIS & BRO.,

Nos. 152 and 154 Congress St., Boston; and No. 165 William St., New

York,

Commission Merchants, and Manufacturers’ Agents,

FOR THE SALE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF

INDIA RUBBER GOODS,

ENAMELLED CLOTHS, &c., &c.

An Illustrated and Descriptive Catalogue sent, on application, and

receipt of two Postage Stamps.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

HOW BROTHERS,

IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN

Shoe Manufacturers Goods.

ITALIAN CLOTHS,

WORSTED LASTINGS,

SERGE DE BERRIS,

UNION LASTINGS,

SATIN FRANCAIS,

CONGRESS RUBBER WEB,

BLEACHED DRILLS,

BROWN DUCKS,

BLEACHED DUCKS,

FRENCH GLOVE, CALF, MOROCCO AND KID SKINS,

SLIPPER PATTERNS,

MACHINE SILK,

MACHINE LINEN THREAD,

SILK, LINEN AND COTTON SHOE LACINGS,

SATIN RIBBONS,

SHOE BUTTONS,

BLACK AND COLOR’D UNION GALLOONS,

EYELETS,

ROSETTES, ORNAMENTS,

SLIPPER ELASTICS,

STANDARD 10 H. B. AND 3 H. B. SHOE THREAD.

All of which we are prepared to offer to the trade at the lowest market

rates.

NO. 11. PEARL ST.,

BOSTON.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

BOOT & SHOE WAREHOUSE

HENRY L. DAGGETT,

WHOLESALE DEALER IN

Boots, Shoes and Leather,

AND IMPORTER OF

SHOE MANUFACTURERS GOODS,

SOLE AGENT FOR THE

Congress Rubber Company Elastic Webbing,

FOR GAITER BOOTS.

RUBBER BOOTS AND SHOES

on hand; a complete assortment at the _lowest market rates_. JOBBERS and

RETAILERS supplied on very favorable terms.

MANUFACTURERS and DEALERS will find at this Warehouse a complete

assortment of goods in their line which will be sold at the lowest

prices for CASH, or approved paper.

CONSIGNMENTS solicited, and advances made.

No. 101 and 103 Pearl Street, Boston.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

LINDSLEY, SHAW & CO.,

WHOLESALE DEALERS IN

BOOTS, SHOES,

AND

RUBBERS.

ALSO MANUFACTURE

Men’s Boy’s and Youth’s Calf Boots, and Kip and Calf Brogans and Oxford

Ties,

OF QUALITIES ADAPTED TO THE NEW ENGLAND RETAIL TRADE.

PEARL ST., COR. HIGH, BOSTON.

Joseph C. Lindsley,

Theron V. Shaw,

Rufus Gibbs.

* * * * *

AMOS P. TAPLEY,

DEALER IN

BOOTS AND SHOES,

OF PRIME QUALITY,

FOR THE NEW ENGLAND AND WESTERN TRADE.

Chambers, Pearl, corner High St., Boston.

* * * * *

HENRY POOR & SON,

Hide and Leather Dealers, and Commission Merchants,

No. 84 North Street, Boston.

HENRY POOR,

EDEN S. POOR,

HENRY C. POOR,

JOHN O. POOR,

CHAS. C. POOR.

* * * * *

COMINS & CO.,

MANUFACTURERS OF

Patent, Enamelled, Buff and Split Leather,

NO. 22 DOCK SQUARE, BOSTON.

L. B. COMINS.

F. S. MERRITT.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

JOHN B. ALLEY & CO.,

MANUFACTURERS OF

Patent, Enamelled, Split & Grain Leather,

CALF SKINS, &C.

COMMISSION MERCHANTS

FOR THE SALE OF

SOLE LEATHER,

AND IMPORTERS OF

BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURERS’ GOODS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS,

Nos. 168 & 170 Congress St., Boston.

JOHN B. ALLEY,

H. D. SWEETSER.

* * * * *

TOWNSEND, MALLARD & COWING,

AUCTIONEERS,

AND WHOLESALE DEALERS IN

BOOTS, SHOES & LEATHER.

AGENTS FOR THE WAX-THREAD SEWING MACHINE.

Nos. 45 & 47 Pearl St., Boston.

ELMER TOWNSEND,

WARREN MALLARD,

WALTER H. COWING.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

ATHERTON, STETSON & CO.,

Manufacturers and Commission Merchants,

Boots, Shoes and Leather,

constantly on hand and for sale at lowest market prices. A. S. & Co. are

the authorized AGENTS for New England States of the AMERICAN ELASTIC

CLOTH CO.’S ELASTIC GORING, a new and superior article for

CONGRESS BOOTS.

34 PEARL STREET, BOSTON.

* * * * *

COCHRANE, KIMBALL & DIMICK,

Successors to Emerson, Cochrane & Co.,

Manufacturers and Wholesale Dealers in

BOOTS, SHOES & LEATHER,

Nos. 68 & 70 Pearl Street, Boston.

G. W. COCHRANE,

AARON KIMBALL,

(E. C. EMERSON, Special Partner,)

J. C. DIMICK,

J. T. SPALDING.

* * * * *

E. PACKARD,

(Formerly Holmes & Packard,)

Manufacturer of

Boot & Shoe, Sole & Upper Leather Cutters,

WESTBORO’, MASS.

Altering and Repairing done at short notice. Your orders are solicited.

* * * * *

S. R. SPAULDING & SON,

Hide, Leather and Commission Merchants,

78 PEARL STREET,

BOSTON.

* * * * *

FIELD, CONVERSE & CO.,

COMMISSION MERCHANTS, & DEALERS IN HIDES, LEATHER & OIL,

88 & 90 North Street, Boston.

J. FIELD,

J. W. CONVERSE,

J. B. WHALL,

L. LITCHFIELD.

* * * * *

JAMES P. THORNDIKE,

COMMISSION MERCHANT, & DEALER IN HIDES, LEATHER & OIL,

93, 95 & 97 North Street, Boston,

* * * * *

WILLIAM TUTTLE,

WHOLESALE LEATHER DEALER,

WAX, AFRICAN KIP, SPLIT, &c.,

No. 8 Blackstone St., up-stairs, Boston.

* * * * *

N. SILVESTER,

Manufacturer of Boot and Shoe Patterns,

In all the different styles of this and other markets.

Manufacturers or others sending styles will please send the largest size

of the set wanted. All patterns made from my standards, of which I have

thousands, will be warranted to give satisfaction; if not, they may be

exchanged for any other kind, if they are returned in good condition,

and in a reasonable time. PLEASE GIVE ME A CALL AT

No. 8 Blackstone Street, Boston.

TERMS—CASH ON DELIVERY. Manufacturers and others sending by Expressmen

for Patterns, will please remember my terms.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

SEWING MACHINES.

[Illustration]

EXPRESSLY FOR

SHOE MANUFACTURERS.

LADD, WEBSTER & CO.

Desire to call the attention of all who have occasion to sew Leather, to

their very superior SEWING MACHINES, _intended expressly for that use_.

All the new valuable improvements have been added to make the Sewing

Machine sold by them the best, and in every respect most satisfactory of

all that are adapted to manufacturer’s purposes. They make a strong lock

stitch that cannot be =Ravelled or Pulled Out=. They stitch =Alike on

Both Sides= of the work, without forming ridges underneath. They are

_Perfectly Simple_, and the management of them easily acquired.

Any spool of Cotton, Thread or Silk sold at the stores, may be used

without re-winding.

[Illustration]

LADD, WEBSTER & Co’s.

FAMILY

Sewing Machines,

Are =Unrivalled for Simplicity, Durability, Beauty and ease of

Operation.=

Let Manufacturers, Planters, Farmers, Housekeepers, or any other persons

in search of an instrument to execute any kind of sewing now done by

machinery, make sure they secure the best, by examining ours before

purchasing.

LADD, WEBSTER & Co.,

SUCCESSORS TO HUNT, WEBSTER & Co.,

Cor. Essex & Lincoln Sts., Boston, 469 Broadway, N. Y.

[Illustration]

------------------------------------------------------------------------

MOSES HUNT & CO.,

AGENTS FOR THE SALE OF

A. RICHARDSON’S PATENT UNION

LEATHER SPLITTING MACHINES,

Also, Dealers in Leather, Tanners’ and Curriers’ Tools, &c.

No. 60 Blackstone St., Boston, & 36 Spruce St., New York.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

LEATHER CUTTING MACHINES.

THE SUBSCRIBERS CONTINUE TO MANUFACTURE

Sole Cutting and Stripping Machines,

with all the latest improvements, which they warrant on all kinds of

work. These machines have been thoroughly tested, and have been

preferred, in every case, over all others in use, as they do not get out

of order, or break down, are easily managed, cut quicker, and with less

noise than any other.

ORDERS by mail, with suitable reference in Lynn or Boston, promptly

attended to. Full instructions to operate sent with every machine.

SECOND HAND MACHINES, in good order, for sale cheap. All kinds of

Machines repaired, and satisfaction guaranteed.

KNOX & DITCHBURN,

8 Market Street, Lynn, Mass.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Goodyear Shoe Association.

CIRCULAR.

This Association, recently formed, desire to acquaint the public with

the causes which resulted in the combination known by the style of the

“=Goodyear Shoe Association=.”

During the years 1857 and 1858, the financial crisis was keenly felt by

the India Rubber Shoe interest, in common with other branches of trade.

The troubles experienced by the manufacturers of Rubbers were greatly

enhanced from the non-uniformity in prices and discounts, between the

various agencies. This absence of a regular tariff was productive of

distrust in the purchasers and great embarrassment in the trade.

Some method of action whereby these disturbing causes and effects could

be reconciled, and harmony of action, and confidence in the stability of

the prices asked for goods be restored, was deemed of the utmost

importance.

To this end the several legalized Companies in the United States,

manufacturing Boots and Shoes under Goodyear’s Patent, agreed upon a

basis of action, and effected a consolidation, the principal points of

which are—

_First._ The establishment of two branch agencies, through one or the

other of which all goods manufactured by the Companies must pass.

_Second._ By limiting the manufacture of goods so that the market shall

not be overstocked; but, so far as can be arrived at, the supply and

demand shall be equal.

_Third._ The establishment of a uniform tariff of prices and rate of

discount.

AGENTS.

WALES, EMMONS & Co.,

_66 Pearl St., Boston_.

BREDEN & SOUTHWICK,

_107 & 109 Liberty St., New York_.

N. N. HALSTEAD, PRESIDENT,

E. S. CONVERSE, SECRETARY.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

UNITED STATES

AND

Foreign Patent Agency.

SAMUEL COOPER,

LATE PRINCIPAL EXAMINER OF PATENTS IN THE UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE AT

WASHINGTON.

Office, Webster Building, No. 13 Exchange Street,

BOSTON.

PATENTS procured in the United States, and in all other patent granting

countries. SPECIFICATIONS and DRAWINGS prepared. CAVEATS filed.

RECONSIDERATIONS procured, of applications that have been rejected upon

imperfectly prepared papers. INTERFERENCES prosecuted. RE-ISSUES and

EXTENSIONS procured.

Those unacquainted with him are referred to following testimonials:

_From the_ Hon. CHARLES MASON, _Commissioner of Patents_.

U. S. PATENT OFFICE, _Feb. 28, 1855_.

“I take great pleasure in stating that during the time I have been

acting as Commissioner of Patents, Samuel Cooper, Esq., of Boston,

has been engaged as solicitor, and has been engaged in that capacity

in constant correspondence and intercourse with the office; he has

evinced a thorough acquaintance with Patent Law, and with the rules

and practice of the Office, a close attention to the interests of

his clients, and a marked candor and courtesy that has rendered the

transaction of business with him a pleasure. I have no hesitation in

stating that I regard him as one of the very best agents for the

transaction of business with this Office, with whom I am acquainted.

CHARLES MASON, _Commissioner_.”

_From the_ EXAMINERS _in the_ PATENT OFFICE.

“The undersigned, Principal and Assistant Examiners in the United States

Patent Office, have for several years been well acquainted with Mr.

Samuel Cooper, lately a Principal Examiner in this Office, and take

pleasure in stating that he is a gentleman of the highest moral

character, of unquestioned knowledge in the business and practice of the

Office, and that his scientific attainments are such as eminently fit

him for the business in which he is about to engage.”

HENRY B. RENWICK, }

L. D. GALE, } Principal

J. H. LANE, } Examiners.

T. R. PEALE, }

THOS. T. EVERETT, } Assistant

P. SOUTHGATE SMITH,} Examiners.

WILLIAM C. LANGDON,}

“From long acquaintance, and intimate official relations with Mr.

Cooper, I fully and heartily concur in the foregoing recommendation made

by my late colleagues.”

WM. P. N. FITZGERALD, _late Principal Examiner of Patents_

------------------------------------------------------------------------

GENTLEMEN’S

Boot and Shoe Emporium,

NO. 10 SCHOOL STREET.

ISRAEL M. RICE, Proprietor.

This Establishment, of thirteen years’ standing, has long since become

the popular resort for gentlemen who desire first class Boots, Shoes and

Gaiters. I import, very largely,

French Boats, Shoes and Gaiters,

from the well known manufactories of GAN & FORR, and other equally

celebrated makers. I also make to measure, all styles of work, from the

choicest French Stock, of my own importation.

I employ none but scientific workmen, and all goods from my

establishment are warranted equal to the best.

ISRAEL M. RICE,

No. 10 School Street.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

JENKINS’ PRESSES AND HEATERS.

JENKINS’ PATENT PRESSES AND HEATERS, for making Cemented Boots and

Shoes, are manufactured at Lynn, Mass., where may be found Presses and

Heaters in practical operation, and for sale, of any required form or

size, made under the immediate attention of the Patentee, who will

attend to putting them up in person, and will give the manufacturer his

assistance in preparing and making the various Cements, and their proper

application, in making any form of Boot or Shoe, together with his

practical application of Gutta Percha to Boots and Shoes for the last

nine years, including his experience in making and using, for a number

of months at Ballardvale.

The Steam Lasts, invented and patented by Mr. Charles Rice and the late

Syranus H. Wharf, there also may be seen a full set of Steam Lasts for

making Boots and Shoes, according to said patents.

Any further information respecting the Presses or Heaters can be

obtained by addressing

THOMAS P. BANCROFT,

Lynn, Mass.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

LASTS AND BOOT TREES.

SAMUEL COX & SONS,

Manufacturers of every description of

LASTS AND BOOT TREES.

FOR LEATHER WORK OF ALL KINDS.

ALSO FOR

INDIA RUBBER BOOTS AND SHOES,

all of which are manufactured from the best of Stock, _thoroughly

seasoned_.

Orders answered with promptness and seasonable despatch. The Last

Manufactory of Cox and Sons is one of the oldest in the United States.

The Manufactory is located at Malden, Mass.

Office, 92 Pearl Street, Boston.

* * * * *

THREADS, LINEN, COTTON & SILK,

FOR EVERY DESCRIPTION OF

SEWING MACHINES.

SHOE THREAD,

SADLERS’ do

GILLING do

MARSHALL’S do

CABLE THREADS,

SEA ISLAND COTTON,

ERMAN’S DIAMOND do

PHILLIP’S WAXED do

Also, TWINE of every variety.

ROSS & PEARCE,

No. 7 Liberty Square, Boston, Mass.

* * * * *

AGENT FOR LICENSES.

=CHARLES RICE=, 84 Pearl Street, Boston, is the Agent for the NORTH

AMERICAN PATENT BOOT AND SHOE CO. for granting LICENCES for the

manufacture of CEMENTED BOOTS AND SHOES under Tyer & Helm’s Patent,

allusion to which is made in this work. =Terms 2½= per cent.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

RUBBER AND GUTTA PERCHA

SHOE FINDINGS,

VARIOUS RUBBER FABRICS & ARTICLES.

MATTSON & CO.,

Proprietors of the Roxbury Rubber Factory,

Are prepared to manufacture the following new articles required for the

CEMENTED BOOTS and SHOES, which are creating a new era in the Shoe

business:

=Gutta Percha and Rubber Cements.=

=Counters or Stiffenings=, of any required compound.

=Water-Proof linings= for the Uppers, superior to and cheaper than Oiled

Silk.

=Water-Proof Middle Soling= suited to pegged or sewed Boots or Shoes, (a

most desirable article.)

=Gutta Percha Inner Soling= of any required thickness or compound,

spread on cloth or otherwise.

=Crude Gutta Percha= cleaned and rolled into thin sheets, suitable for

making Cements.

ALSO ON HAND THE ORDINARY

RUBBER SOLING,

adapted in thickness to a lady’s slipper or a heavy boot, with Boxes of

CEMENT for putting on the same.

☞ We also manufacture the cheapest RUBBER COATS in the United States, as

well as those of the finest quality; UNDER-SHEETING for the protection

of Beds; Piano, Melodeon and Table Covers; Air Beds, Pillows and

Cushions, &c. Dr. Mattson’s ELASTIC SYRINGES, to which Four Silver

Medals had been awarded.

MATTSON & CO.,

No. 1 Tremont Temple, Boston.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

BOSWORTH’S

$25 SEWING MACHINE.

[Illustration]

This machine is decidedly the best in the market for FAMILY USE, and is

warranted to sew on every fabric with cotton or silk on the original

spools; it will not drop stitches nor get out of order: no charge made

for repairs. It is the most simple and perfect machine ever invented,

and the inventor feels confident that all who purchase it will find what

they have long sought, _a perfect and reliable Machine at the low price

of_ =TWENTY-FIVE DOLLARS=.

Reference will be given to parties wishing to purchase, to many families

who have the machine in practical use, which is the only true test by

which a purchaser can be sure of obtaining a good machine.

All orders addressed to the subscriber will meet with prompt attention.

Agents will be supplied with machines at a liberal discount, and towns

secured to them. Only one Agent will be appointed in a place; preference

being given to the best location. ☞ All letters must be addressed to the

subscriber.

L. STETSON, Agent,

No. 3 Tremont Row, (Up Stairs,) Op. Head of Hanover St.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

UPPER PATTERNS,

PROPORTIONED BY MACHINERY.

After long experience in the LAST and PATTERN BUSINESS, I have

accomplished that which has hitherto been considered an impossibility,

viz., Drawing and Proportioning correctly, sets of

BOOT AND SHOE PATTERNS,

of all sizes, from _one_ model by machinery, giving each piece its

proportioned size and shape. For full description and illustration, see

Diagrams on pages 81 to 88, _inclusive_.

The machine is used by B. F. Parrott, No. 4 Exchange St., Boston, to

whom all orders for patterns should be addressed.

Also on hand, a large assortment of BOOT and SHOE MODELS, from which he

will manufacture Patterns from Paper, Pasteboard or Zinc. Pasteboard

bound with Brass. Also Patterns copied from any Boot or Shoe which may

be sent as a model.

I am also manufacturing WOMEN’S, MISSES’ and CHILDREN’S LASTS and

PATTERNS to correspond with, and fit the patterns above referred to, by

which means the Boot and Shoe manufacturing is still further

facilitated.

Further information may be obtained by applying to

G. W. PARROTT,

Mechanic Steam Mills, Broad St., Lynn, Mass.

The Patterns above referred to are used by the principal Manufacturers

in this city and vicinity.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

ONE PRICE SHOE STORE.

LAMKIN & GREENE,

COOLIDGE BUILDING, OPPOSITE REVERE HOUSE,

BOSTON,

KEEP CONSTANTLY ON HAND

FRENCH & AMERICAN BOOTS & SHOES,

Of the most fashionable styles, which they offer at the lowest prices.

☞BOOTS AND SHOES MADE TO ORDER,☜

J. H. GREENE.

G. LAMKIN.

* * * * *

R. & F. KNOTT,

LADIES SHOEMAKERS,

16 SCHOOL STREET,

BOSTON.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

1. P. 164, changed “from about $300 to $36.00 profit” to “from about

$3.00 to $36.00 profit”.

2. Silently corrected typographical errors and variations in spelling.

3. Retained anachronistic, non-standard, and uncertain spellings as

printed.

4. Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.

5. Enclosed bold font in =equals=.

The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide. Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning. · 第 6 / 6 章