TEA WITH EGGS

The Jesuite that came from China, Ann. 1664, told Mr. Waller,

That there they use sometimes in this manner. To near a pint

of the infusion, take two yolks of new laid-eggs, and beat

them very well with as much fine Sugar as is sufficient for

this quantity of Liquor; when they are very well incorporated,

pour your Tea upon the Eggs and Sugar, and stir them well

together. So drink it hot. This is when you come home from

attending business abroad, and are very hungry, and yet have

not conveniency to eat presently a competent meal. This

presently discusseth and satisfieth all rawness and indigence

of the stomack, flyeth suddainly over the whole body and into

the veins, and strengthenth exceedingly and preserves one a

good while from necessity of eating. Mr. Waller findeth all

those effects of it thus with Eggs. In these parts, He saith,

we let the hot water remain too long soaking upon the Tea,

which makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of the

herb. The water is to remain upon it no longer than whiles you

can say the _Miserere_ Psalm very leisurely. Thus you have only

the spiritual parts of the Tea, which is much more active,

penetrative, and friendly to nature.

Sometimes, it is true, one suspects Sir Kenelm of a tendency to

gild the lily. In the matter of perfuming his tobacco, this was his

procedure:--

Take Balm of Peru half an ounce, seven or eight Drops of Oyl of

Cinamon, Oyl of Cloves five drops, Oyl of Nutmegs, of Thyme, of

Lavender, of Fennel, of Aniseeds (all drawn by distillation) of

each a like quantity, or more or less as you like the Odour,

and would have it strongest; incorporate with these half a dram

of Ambergrease; make all these into a Paste; which keep in a

Box; when you have fill’d your Pipe of Tobacco, put upon it

about the bigness of a Pin’s Head of this Composition.

It will make the Smoak most pleasantly odoriferous, both to

the Takers, and to them that come into the Room; and ones

Breath will be sweet all the day after. It also comforts the

Head and Brains.

It is a great temptation to go on quoting these seductive formulæ. I

feel sure that my tenderer readers would relish instructions for the

Beautifying Water or Precious Cosmetick,--for the secret of which

ladies of high degree pursued Sir Kenelm all over Europe. (He does

not include in the _Closet_ any details of the Viper Wine for the

Complection which was said to have caused the death of Lady Digby--a

rather painful scandal at the time.) But I fear to trespass on your

patience. Let me only add that the ambition of the Three Hours for

Lunch Club has long been to hold a DIGBY DINNER, at which all the

dishes will be prepared as nearly as possible according to Sir Kenelm’s

prescriptions. The project offers various perplexities, and might even

have to be consummated at sea, beyond the hundred-fathom curve. But if

it ever comes to pass, the following menu, carefully chosen from Sir

Kenelm’s delicacies, seems to me promising:--

Portugal Broth, As It Was Made for the Queen

Sack with Clove Gillyflowers

Sucket of Mallow Stalks

A Herring Pye

A Smoothening Quiddany of Quinces

My Lady Diana Porter’s Scotch Collops

Mead, from the Muscovian Ambassador’s Steward

The Queen Mother’s Hotchpot of Mutton

Pease of the Seedy Buds of Tulips

Boiled Rice in a Pipkin

Marmulate of Pippins

Dr. Bacon’s Julep of Conserve of Red Roses

Excellent Spinage Pasties

Pleasant Cordial Tablets, Which Strengthen Nature

Small Ale for the Stone

A Nourishing Hachy

Plague Water

Marrow Sops with Wine

My Lord of Denbigh’s Almond Marchpane

Sallet of Cold Capon Rosted

My Lady of Portland’s Minced Pyes

The Liquor of Life

A Quaking Bag-Pudding

Metheglin for the Colic

But I must not mislead you into thinking that Sir Kenelm was merely a

convivial trencherman. His biography as related in the _Encyclopædia

Britannica_ is as diverting as a novel--more so than many. Infant

prodigy, irresistible wooer, privateer, scientist, religious

controversialist, astrologer, and a glorious talker, he made a profound

impression on the life of his time. But, as so often happens, his

name has been carried down to posterity not by the strange laborious

treatise he regarded as his opus maximum, but by his chance association

with one of the great books of all time. When Digby was under

honorable confinement (as a “Popish recusant”) at Winchester House,

Southwark, in 1642, he was busy there with chemical experiment and

the MS. of his _Of Bodies and Mans Soul_ (of which more in a moment).

Apparently they treated political prisoners with more indulgence in

those days. One evening he received a letter from his friend the Earl

of Dorset, urging him to read a book that was making a stir among

the intellectuals. One may think it was perhaps a trifle niggardly

of Dorset merely to have recommended the book. To a friend in jail,

surely he might (and it was just before Christmas) have sent a copy

as a present. But the liberality of the Earl is not to be called in

question: he had made Sir Kenelm at least one startlingly gracious

gift--viz. Lady Digby herself, previously Dorset’s mistress. This oddly

amusing story, or gossip, may be pursued in Aubrey’s _Brief Lives_,

a fascinating book (published by the Oxford Press)--a sort of Social

Register of seventeenth century England.

“Late as it was” when Sir Kenelm received the letter from his

benefactor and colleague, he sent out at once (mark the high spirit

of the true inquirer; also the sagacity of seventeenth century

booksellers, who kept open at night)--

To let you see how the little needle of my Soul is throughly

touched at the great Loadstone of yours, and followeth

suddenly and strongly, which way soever you becken it.... I

sent presently (as late as it was) to _Pauls_ Church-yard, for

this Favourite of yours, _Religio Medici_: which found me in

a condition fit to receive a Blessing; for I was newly gotten

into my Bed. This good natur’d creature I could easily perswade

to be my Bed-fellow, and to wake with me, as long as I had any

edge to entertain my self with the delights I sucked from so

noble a conversation.

Rarely have the pleasures of reading in bed had such durable result.

The following day he spent in pouring out a long, spirited and

powerful letter to Dorset (75 printed pages) which has become famous as

_Observations upon Religio Medici_, and a few years later was included

as a supplement to that book--where it still remains in most editions.

In this tumbling out of his honourable meditations and excitements,

Sir Kenelm took issue pretty smartly with Dr. Browne on a number of

points, particularly in regard to his own special hobby of Immortality.

He, just as much as the Norwich physician, loved to lose himself in an

Altitudo; but in some cloudlands of airy doctrine Browne seemed to him

too precise. “The dint of Wit,” Digby remarked felicitously of some

theological impasse, “is not forcible enough to dissect such tough

matter.”

These _Observations_ are of more than casual importance. Dorset,

apparently, took steps (unknown to Digby) to have them published;

and report of this coming blast roused Browne to protest courteously

against “animadversions” based upon the unauthorized and imperfect

version of his book--his own “true and intended Originall” being by

this time in the printer’s hands. Digby had written his observations

without knowing who the author of _Religio_ was. The letters that now

passed between him and Browne are an exhilarating model of controversy

goldenly conducted between gentlemen of the grand manner. “You shall

sufficiently honour me in the vouchsafe of your refute,” writes Browne,

“and I obliege the whole world in the occasion of your Pen.” To which

Digby, avowing that his comments were written without thought of

print and merely as a “private exercitation,” charmingly disclaims

any ambition to enter public argument with so superior a scholar.

“To encounter such a sinewy opposite, or make Animadversions upon so

smart a piece as yours is, requireth such a solid stock and exercise

in school learning. My superficial besprinkling will serve only for

a private letter, or a familiar discourse with Lady auditors. With

longing I expect the comming abroad of the true copy of the Book,

whose false and stoln one hath already given me so much delight.” The

delightful remark about lady auditors causes one to suspect that even

in that day the germ of the lecture passion was moving in circles of

high-spirited females.

Digby and Browne were evidently kinsprits. They were nearly of an

age; Browne was a physician, and Digby--though many considered him a

mountebank and charlatan--had a genuine scientific zeal for medical

dabblings. His Powder of Sympathy, a nostrum for healing wounds at a

distance, has been a cause of merriment among later generations; but

Sir Kenelm was no fool and I am not at all sure that there wasn’t much

excellent sense in his procedure. The injury itself was washed and

kept under a clean bandage. The Powder of Sympathy was to be prepared

from a paste of vitriol, and the instructions included necessity for

mixing and exposing it in sunshine. Sir Kenelm was quite aware of

the public appetite for hocus-pocus, and surely there was a touch of

anticipatory Christian Science and Coué in his idea of keeping the

patient’s mind off the trouble and giving him this harmless amusement

in the open air. For the sympathetic powder, please note, was never to

be applied to the wound itself, but only to something carrying the

blood of the injured person--a stained bandage, a garment, or even

the weapon with which the damage was done. The injury was left to the

curative progress of Nature. This theory of treating not the wound but

the weapon might well be meditated by literary critics. For instance,

when some toxicated energumen publishes an atrocious book, the best

course to pursue is not to attack the author but to praise Walter de la

Mare or Stella Benson. This may be termed the allopathic principle in

criticism; but few of us are steadfast enough to adhere to it.

Digby’s _Memoirs_--not published until 1827--exhibit him as the

swashbuckler, and amorist by no means faint. They are amusing enough

but give only a carnal silhouette. Perhaps he did not write the book

himself: there is a vein of burlesque in the narrative that makes me

suspicious. It purports to be an account of Sir Kenelm’s fidelity to

his wife, the lovely Venetia; and we are told that the account was

written under Antonian pressure. Importuned by ladies of much personal

generosity and recklessness, Sir Kenelm austerely retires to a cave and

pens this confession of uxorious loyalty. When you consider that the

relations of Sir Kenelm and Lady Venetia were one of the fashionable

uproars of the day, you begin to guess that the Memoir (in which all

the characters are concealed by romantic pseudonyms) was an elaborate

skit intended for private circulation, probably the work of some

satirical friend. Exactly so, when any great scandal nowadays is riding

on the front pages of the newspapers, do City Room reporters compose

humorous burlesques of the printed “stories,” and these have delightful

currency round the office.

So you will still find legends in print suggesting that Sir Kenelm

was a blend of Casanova and Dr. Munyon. He has been attributed what

historians used to call “Froude’s disease”--an insufficient curiosity

as to the total of 2 and 2 when added together. But a man whose

memory still makes a page and a half of the _Encyclopædia Britannica_

such lively reading, must have had more than mere animal spirits in

his make-up. It is easy to find testimony to his potent social and

military accomplishments. But the man himself, his earnest scientific

passions, his valiant speculation on human destinies, does not emerge

from the entries in encyclopædias. For that you must look into his

great book _Two Treatises: The Nature of Bodies, and The Nature of Mans

Soul_ (1658). By the kindness of Mr. Wilbur Macey Stone, generous and

astonishingly Elizabethan explorer of old books, I have an original,

tawny and most aromatic copy of this queer treasure. The title page of

the Second Treatise is endorsed, with a charming use of the aspirates--

SAMUEL MELLOR’S BOOK, December 22th 1792.

_Samuel Mellor his my Name

and Cheshire is my Nation

and Burton is my Dwellings

Place and Christ is my

Salvation

this Book geven

has A Gift to Samuel Mellor_

Sir Kenelm dedicates the volume to his son, in a touching and

honourable letter dated “Paris the last of August 1644.” “The calamity

of this time” (he says) “hath bereft me of the ordinary means of

expressing my affection to you; I have been casting about, to find some

other way of doing that in such sort, as you may receive most profit

by it. Therein I soon pitched upon these Considerations; that Parents

owe unto their children, not only material subsistence for their Body,

but much more, spiritual contributions to their better part, their

Mind.” Accordingly, with perfect gravity and that sombre and Latinized

eloquence which was the peculiar gift of his century, he proceeds to

expound in nearly 600 dense pages his observations on what we would

call nowadays physics and psychology. It would be agreeable enough,

if I did not fear to weary you, to copy down some of Sir Kenelm’s

delightful shrewd comments. A few of his section headings will serve to

give an idea of his matter. For instance:--

_The experience of burning glasses, and of soultry gloomy

weather, prove light to be fire._

_Philosophers ought not to judge of things by the rules of

vulgar people._

_The reason why the motion of light is not discerned coming

towards us, and that there is some real tardity in it._

_The true sense of the Maxim, that Nature abhorreth from

vacuity._

_The loadstone sendeth forth its emanations spherically.

Which are of two kinds: and each kind is strongest in that

hemisphere, through whose polary parts they issue out._

_The reason why sometimes the same object appears through the

prism in two places: and in one place more lively, in the other

place more dim._

_How the vital spirits sent from the brain, do run to the

intended part of the body without mistake._

_Of the rainbow, and how by the colour of any body, we may know

the composition of the body it self._

_How things renewed in the fantasie, return with the same

circumstances that they had at first._

_Why divers men hate some certain meats, and particularly

cheese._

Here, you will agree, was a man who even when he seems naïf, examined

phenomena with his own eyes and with notable sharpness. Delving into

the “crooked narrow cranies & restrayned flexuous rivolets of corporeal

things” was, he insisted, a “difficult & spiny affaire;” he was eager

to avoid “meer Chymeras and wild paradoxes,” hoped that “by strong

abstraction, and by deep retirement into the closet of judgment” he

might win “a favourable doom” from his readers. There is no naïveté so

dangerous as that of underestimating the power of another man’s mind.

Behind some of his fanciful suggestions there is an astonishing agility

of conjecture. On the subject of physiology he is delicious. Hear him

(pared down to stark brevity) on the brain:--

We may take notice that it containeth, towards the middle of

its substance, four concavities, as some do count them: but in

truth, these four, are but one great concavity, in which four,

as it were, divers roomes, may be distinguished.... Now, two

rooms of this great concavity, are divided by a little body,

somewhat like a skin, (though more fryable) which of itself is

clear; but there it is somewhat dimmed, by reason that hanging

a little slack, it somewhat shriveleth together: and this,

Anatomists do call _Septum lucidum_, or speculum....

This part seemeth to me, to be that and onely that, in which

the fansie or common sense resideth ... it is seated in the

very hollow of the brain; which of necessity must be the place

and receptacle where the species and similitudes of things doe

reside, and where they are moved and tumbled up and down, when

we think of many things. And lastly, the situation we put our

head in, when we think earnestly of any thing, favoureth this

opinion: for then we hang our head forwards, as it were forcing

the specieses to settle towards our forehead, that from thence

they may rebound, and work upon this diaphanous substance.

But it is in the Second Treatise (“Declaring the Nature and Operations

of Mans Soul; out of which, The Immortality of Reasonable Souls, is

Convinced”) that the darling man rises to really dazzling heights. In

this mystical, ecstatic and penitential essay he (in Burton’s phrase)

rectifies his perturbations. He is no longer channeled in the “crooked

narrow cranies of corporeal things;” he works from withinward and

spirals in happy ether:--

To thee then my soul, I now address my speech. For since by

long debate, and toilsom rowing against the impetuous tides

of ignorance, and false apprehensions, which overthrow thy

banks, and hurry thee headlong down the stream, whiles thou

art imprisoned in thy clayie mansion; we have with much ado

arrived to aim at some little attome of thy vast greatness; and

with the hard and tough blows of strict and wary reasoning, we

have strucken out some few sparks of that glorious light, which

invironeth and swelleth thee: it is high time, I should retire

my self out of the turbulent and slippery field of eager strife

and litigious disputation, to make my accounts with thee; where

no outward noise may distract us, nor any way intermeddle

between us, excepting onely that eternal verity, which by thee

shineth upon my faint and gloomy eyes.... Existence is that

which comprehendeth all things: and if God be not comprehended

in it, thereby it is, that he is incomprehensible of us: and

he is not comprehended in it, because himself is it.... Which

way soever I look, I lose my sight, in seeing an infinity round

about me: Length without points: Breadth without Lines: Depth

without any surface. All content, all pleasure, all restless

rest, all an unquietness and transport of delight, all an

extasie of fruition.

So don’t let any one tell you that Sir Kenelm was only a seventeenth

century epicure and bootlegger.

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