DISBUDDING.—This operation does not appear to be sufficiently recognised
in its proper sense as distinguished from pruning and pinching. In
performing these latter operations we remove a portion of the growing
shoot, in the former case the young bud is removed as soon as it can be
rubbed off. These operations are therefore quite distinct, and their
distinction is of much importance. Most fruit cultivators are aware that
trees suffer materially by suddenly depriving them of a large portion of
foliage while in active growth, and expedients are resorted to in order
to render the operation less injurious. In spring when the buds burst,
attention should be directed to the quantity of young shoots desirable
either for fruit or uniformity of growth; these being secured all others
should immediately be _rubbed_ off. As growth proceeds luxuriant shoots
are _stopped_ or their points pinched off, removing more or less of the
shoot, according to the object to be attained. If the plant is very
luxuriant, more leaves may be removed and if _every_ shoot upon a tree is
operated on in this manner it amounts to a severe check on its growth. In
the case of young trees, or weakly ones, where a certain form is desired,
the young growing point should be bruised without removing any of the
elaborating foliage, securing density of habit without any perceptible
check of growth. Suppose a shoot that has grown 12 or 14 inches to be
pinched back one half of its length, the uppermost bud will burst again
and the others remain comparatively dormant; but allowing the same shoot
to have been checked in its longitudinal growth, by pinching or bruising
its extreme point, it will be found that all the lower buds will be
benefitted and several additional shoots produced. We have alluded to
this subject more particularly at present as we are aware of having
occasionally made use of the term _pinching_ when _disbudding_ would have
been the more appropriate expression.
STRAWBERRIES.—Preparations should now be in progress for securing plants
for early forcing next spring. Various methods are adopted to get strong
plants, such as filling small pots with rich soil and plunging them in
the strawberry patch, introducing a young plant on the pot, and removing
into larger ones when rooted. Others again prepare full sized pots at
once and place them in this manner, securing the young plant in both
cases with a small stone laid on the surface. When close attention is
paid in watering, these plans are good. An equally successful and less
troublesome method is to prepare a few square yards of ground in a
somewhat sheltered situation, manuring it well and digging deeply, and
filling it thickly with young plants. They should be partially shaded for
a few days, and duly watered. In the course of three or four weeks they
will lift with good balls of earth and are potted at once in fruiting
pots. Pistilo-staminate or hermaphrodite varieties are found to produce
better when forced early than pistillate sorts.
Root pruning of fruit trees is sometimes commendable, and the present is
the proper season for its more immediate beneficial effects. It is mostly
performed on young vigorous trees that show no disposition to fruit. By
cutting away some of the strongest roots at this time the supply of sap
will be lessened and the wood ripening process accelerated. No fruit
need be expected from badly ripened wood. In nine cases out of ten the
non-appearance of fruit on healthy trees arises from this cause. Mild
autumn weather induces growth to a late period and sudden frosts arrive
before the wood is sufficiently matured. This is more particularly
noticeable on soils inclined to be wet, and here again we perceive the
necessity of underground drains, in order to remove surplus water. It
is an exceedingly erroneous idea that drains are worse than useless in
localities where long droughts are of frequent occurrence. The truth is
that draining enhances humidity during hot weather, since it enables the
soil to exercise its absorbing properties to the fullest extent, there
being more air in the soil water is retained in its pores, constituting a
reservoir holding a lasting supply when other sources fail.
RENOVATING OLD TREES.—Most satisfactory results have been obtained from
old and apparently worn out trees by changing the soil about their
roots, or applying a top dressing of wood ashes, guano, salt and plaster
in equal quantities, allowing about one bushel of the mixture to each
tree. If nothing better is convenient, a heavy dressing of well made
barn manure forked in about the roots will have a decided effect. The
absorbing points of the roots extend a considerable distance from the
trunk, therefore, the principal part of the top dressing should embrace
a circumference at least equal to that of the branches. It might be
considered unnecessary to mention this _very_ apparent fact, were it not
usual to observe manure applied to the stem instead of the roots.
GRAPES UNDER GLASS will now be approaching maturity. Dryness both in
soil and atmosphere favors this process, still they must not be allowed
to suffer for want of moisture should the weather prove dry. The young
growth may be stopped more rigidly as the ripening process proceeds. This
will concentrate the sap and strengthen the buds for a future crop, if
pinched back too severely these buds may start into growth, which must be
guarded against.
OUT-DOOR GRAPES will require attention in thinning out lateral shoots
and stopping others especially those on bearing shoots. Thinning out the
berries is seldom practised on these, nor, indeed is it always necessary.
Occasionally, however, the berries are so thickly placed that room is not
afforded them to swell out and ripen properly. By thinning out a few of
the most central and smallest berries, the fruit will ripen earlier and
be much improved both in size and flavor.