CHINESE PRIMROSE.

Winter flowering plants are not too plentiful, at least such as will

bloom in the cool temperature of a greenhouse; we have many fine winter

flowering exotics, but they either require a hothouse temperature to

bloom freely, or are more difficult to manage during summer; we are

indebted to the Celestials for many of our most valuable winter flowers,

Azaleas, Camellias and among others that beautiful little gem the Chinese

primrose. They are all of hardy and robust habit, and are thus within

the reach of all, so far as cultivation is concerned, a recommendation

of much importance to those amateurs who cannot devote much time to

their collection. It has often occurred to me when visiting amateurs’

greenhouses, that they would derive much more pleasure from their labors

were they more select in the choice of their plants, choosing those

only of known hardy and free blooming qualities, instead of aiming at a

varied assortment, often expensive, and rarely satisfactory. I was more

deeply impressed with this fact during a visit to an enthusiastic amateur

last winter. On entering his greenhouse I was struck with the gay and

cheerful appearance it presented, and it was only when about leaving that

I observed the only plants in flower were a few Camellias, two or three

Cinnerarias, and a quantity of Primulas of various colors, but these were

so well arranged and set off with a profusion of healthy foliage, and the

Primroses showing such fine rounded trusses, that I am confident not one

person in ten would have noticed this simplicity of its production.

Although this plant is very hardy, I am aware that many amateurs are

not so successful with it as they would wish. This, I presume, arises

principally from its liability to decay if kept too damp at root, either

from using pots of a large size, or supplying water too freely. Four and

six inch pots will be found of ample size, not that a plant will not grow

in a pot three feet in diameter as well as it would in one inches. The

only difference would be that, in the former, the plant would probably

require water once a month and the latter daily.

To keep up a succession of flowers for four or five months, seed should

be put in at intervals of five or six weeks, from June to September,

soil of a sandy nature should be prepared, and the seeds very slightly

covered. The front shelf in the greenhouse will be a suitable place for

them while growing, they should be encouraged by transplanting into a

shallow box as soon as the first true leaf makes its appearance. If

thinly planted (not closer than three inches) they can remain until

sufficiently strong to be placed at once into flowering pots. These must

be well drained by placing a handful of broken material in each pot.

If attention is paid to this, there will be little fear of damp, if

ordinary care is given in watering. Two small stakes should be inserted

one each side of the plant, crossing other at top, no tying will be

necessary, this will prevent them from toppling over and breaking off

at the neck where they are very weak. A few of the latest sowing should

be set apart for seedling. A little care and attention should be given

to their selection, choosing those with large, well colored fringed

flowers. Sometimes they incline to be semi-double; these should have

the preference. About the middle of May they should be set out in the

sun, watered regularly, and if they receive an occasional application

of manure water the value of the seed will be enhanced. Under these

conditions an abundance of seed will be secured. It is not worth trouble

to preserve old plants; young ones flowering with much more vigour; any

particularly fine variety, however, may be turned out of the pot after

it has done blooming, some of the old soil removed and replaced in fresh

compost. The double varieties are much superior to the single ones. They

are increased by dividing the plant into cuttings. To propagate them

requires a cool dry situation, partially shaded, paying great attention

in watering, they must be kept rather dry until they begin to show

symptoms of growth; otherwise they are certain to decay. It is probably

on this account that they are not so extensively cultivated as they

deserve to be.

The Florist and Horticultural Journal, Vol. II. No. 7, July, 1853 A Monthly Magazine of Horticulture, Agriculture, Botany, Agricultural Chemistry, Entomology, &c. · 第 18 / 30 题