[Illustration: (_The Church_.)]
This is one of the most interesting structures in Great Britain. It
stands about one mile west from Winchester, on the banks of the river
Itchin. Its architectural character is of the first importance in
illustrating the superior skill of our ancestors; while it has retained
more of its original character than any similar record of ancient piety
and charity in our island. Dr. Milner, in allusion to its principal
features, observes: "the lofty tower, with the grated door, and porter's
lodge beneath it; the retired ambulatory; the separate cells; the common
refectory; the venerable church; the black flowing dress and the silver
cross worn by the members; the conventual appellation of _brother_,
with which they salute each other; in short, the silence, the order, and
the neatness, that here reign, seem to recall the idea of a monastery to
those who have seen one, and will give no imperfect idea of such an
establishment to those who have not had that advantage."[3]
St. Cross, however, "never was a monastery, but only an hospital for
the support of ancient and infirm men, living together in a regular
and devout manner." The original founder was Henry de Blois, bishop of
Winchester, who instituted it, between the years 1132 and 1136; and
required that "thirteen poor men, so decayed and past their strength
that without charitable assistance they cannot maintain themselves,
shall abide continually in the hospital, who shall be provided with
proper clothing and beds suitable to their infirmities; and shall have
an allowance daily of good wheat bread, good beer, three messes each for
dinner, and one for supper. That beside these thirteen poor, a hundred
other poor, of modest behaviour and the most indigent that can be found,
shall be received daily at dinner-time, and shall have each a loaf of
coarser bread, one mess, and a proper allowance of beer, with leave to
carry away with them whatever remains of their meat and drink after
dinner." They were to dine in a hall appointed for the purpose, and
called _Hundred Mennes Hall_, from this circumstance. The establishment
also contained an endowment for a master, a steward, four chaplains,
thirteen clerks, and seven choristers.
But, in those "good old times," abuses in institutions formed for the
best and wisest purposes were not uncommon; and in the case of St.
Cross, so early did evil begin to counteract good, that, in little more
than two centuries from its foundation, the revenues assigned for the
annual fulfilment of the founder's wishes, were grossly misapplied.
They had increased in value, and the masters and brethren of
the hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, who were guardians and
administrators, seized the surplus and put it into their own pockets.
Bishop Wykeham, who was appointed to the see of Winchester, in 1366,
set about the reform of these abuses, which he was enabled to do by his
canonical jurisdiction:--"he determined that the whole revenue of the
hospital should be dedicated to the poor, as was the intention of the
founder, and having in vain tried admonition and remonstrance, summoned
the four masters to appear before him and answer for their stewardship.
They were bold enough to set Wykeham at defiance, and availed themselves
of all the subtleties of the law, and of all manner of evasion, by
appeal and otherwise, to thwart and throw him. The upright bishop
persisted--he called them to the severest account--had them fined, and
till they made restitution, excommunicated--and finally restored the
whole endowment to its primitive purpose."[4]
The propriety and good effects of Wykeham's restoration were so
apparent, that his successor, Cardinal Beaufort, having determined
to engage in some permanent charity, resolved rather to enlarge this
institution, than to found a new one. "He therefore endowed it for the
additional support of two priests, and thirty-five poor men, who were to
become residents, and three hospital nuns, who were to attend upon the
sick brethren: he also caused a considerable portion of the hospital to
be rebuilt."[5] Of the present establishment we shall presently speak
in detail. "The hospital," says Lowth, "though much diminished in its
revenues, by what means I cannot say, yet still subsists upon the
remains of both endowments."
The buildings of the hospital composed two courts; but the south side of
the interior quadrangle has been pulled down. The entrance to the first
court from the north is through a capacious gateway.[6] On the east side
is the +Hundred-Mennes Hall+, which is about forty feet long, and
has been converted into a brewhouse; the roof is of Irish oak, and left
open to the timbers, adjoining are the master's apartments. On the
west is a range of offices; and, on the south, with portions of other
buildings, is the lofty and handsome tower gateway, erected by Cardinal
Beaufort, whose statue, in his Cardinal's habit, is represented kneeling
in an elegant niche in the upper part: two other niches, of the same
form, but deprived of their statues, appear also on the same level.
Milner describes the embellishments of this tower: "in a cornice over
the gates we behold the Cardinal's hat displayed, together with the
busts of his father, John of Gaunt, of his royal nephews, Henry IV. and
Henry V., and of his predecessor, Wykeham: in the spandrils, on each
side, are the founder's arms. The centre boss in the groining of the
gateway is carved into a curious cross, composed of leaves, and
surrounded with a crown of thorns: on the left is the door of the
porter's lodge.[7] Passing through this gateway, the spectator sees,
on his right, a long line of buildings, of the age of the original
foundation, for the use of the brethren, each of whom has a house and
garden to himself. On the left is an ambulatory, or cloister, 135 feet
in length, and extending to the church on the south-east. Above the
ambulatory is the ancient infirmary, and chambers called the Nuns's
rooms, from their having been allotted to three hospital sisters on
the foundation of Cardinal Beaufort. The centre of the court has a
grass-plot, and gravel walks intersecting parterres of flowers,
shrubs, &c."
Dr. Milner observes "the present establishment of St. Cross is but the
wreck of its two ancient institutions; it having been severely fleeced,
though not quite destroyed, like so many other hospitals at the
Reformation. Instead of seventy residents, as well clergy as laity, who
were here entirely supported, besides one hundred out-members, who daily
received their meat and drink, the charity consists at present but
of ten residing brethren and three out-pensioners, exclusive of one
chaplain and the master. It is true, however, that certain "doles" of
bread continue to be distributed to the poor of the neighbourhood; and
what is, perhaps, the only vestige left in the kingdom of the simplicity
and hospitality of ancient times, the porter is daily furnished with a
certain quantity of good bread and beer, of which every traveller, or
other person whosoever, that knocks at the lodge, and calls for relief,
is entitled to partake gratuitously."
Such was the state of the charity when Dr. Milner wrote, or, in the year
1809. Our Correspondent, _P.Q._ has furnished us with the following
information to the 20th of last May.
"The funds of this hospital are very ample; for, after providing the
master (the present Earl of Guildford)[8] with a liberal sinecure,
supporting the brethren and servants, and upholding the very extensive
buildings, there are distributed the following 'doles:'
"On the 3rd of May, 10th of August, and the eve of the festivals of
Easter, Whitsuntide, and Christmas, annually, the whole of the brethren
and the steward of the house assemble and form two lines or ranks, at
sunset, within the door of the outer gateway; when, to every person
(even to infants) who applies at the gate, is given a loaf of brown
bread, weighing about three pounds. This distribution is continued until
all the bread is given away; and if the applicants should exceed the
loaves in number, to each of the remaining persons is given an
halfpenny, be they ever so numerous.
"These 'doles' are very beneficial to the poor of Winchester and
vicinity; for to all who attend and obtain an early admission a loaf is
given. I know, that when I was a boy, and never missed going to the
'doles,' some families, where the children were numerous, received from
seven to ten loaves.
"Likewise every traveller who applies at the porter's lodge at the outer
gate of this hospital is entitled to, and receives, a horn of good beer
and a loaf or slice of bread. This demand is frequently made by persons
of a different quality from that intended by the founder, for the sake
of attesting the peculiarity of the custom. The quantity of bread given
to each person is about four ounces--of beer about three-fourths of a
pint."
We next proceed to describe the exterior of the venerable church: the
_interior_ will form the subject of a future article.
On entering the second court the first object that usually attracts
attention is _the Church of St. Cross_, which extends a considerable
distance into the court, and destroys its regularity on the east side.
The exterior of the church is not altogether imposing. "The windows,
with one exception, are seen to disadvantage from without, and the whole
building is enveloped in a shroud of yellow gravelly plaister, strangely
dissonant with ideas of Norman masonry."[9] The church is built in the
cathedral form, with a nave and transept, and a low and massive tower,
rising from the intersection: the whole length of the church is 150
feet; the length of the transept is 120 feet. The architecture of this
structure is singularly curious, and deserving the attention of the
antiquary, as it appears to throw a light on the progress, if not on the
origin, of the pointed or English style. Our Correspondent states the
whole to have been repaired about twenty-two years since, at a very
considerable expense.
[3] Milner's Winchester, vol. ii. p. 141.
[4] Life of Wykeham. By Allan Cunningham--in the _Family Library_.
The reference to the "_four_ masters" is evidently an error.
[5] Beauties of England and Wales, vol. vi. p. 108, Hants. Mr.
Cunningham states these additions to have been made by Wykeham.
We shall presently come to the details of Beaufort's additions
to the building.
[6] A zealous Correspondent, _P.Q._, whose contribution appears
in the next page, describes this gateway as resembling St. John's
Gate, Clerkenwell, which Mr. Malcom thinks "one of the most
perfect remains of monastic buildings in London." It consists of
one capacious arch, with an arched mullioned window in the centre
above it; and is flanked by two square towers. From this place
issued the early numbers of the _Gentleman's Magazine;_ and a
wood-cut of the building appears to this day on the wrapper of
that valuable work, which, for knowledge and utility, is as
superior to the Magazine frippery of the present day as Michael
Angelo to John Nash.
[7] Milner's Winchester, vol. ii. p. 146.
[8] The present Earl succeeded to the title on the death of his
cousin, Francis, the learned Chancellor of the University of the
Ionian Islands, founded by himself, and which he richly endowed
with a noble bequest and a splendid library. His Lordship is
Rector of St. Mary's, Southampton, Old and New Abresford and
Medstead, in Hampshire, a Prebendary of Winchester, and Master
of St. Cross, Hospital.
Among many famous men who have presided over the Hospital, was
Colonel John Lisle, of Moyles Court, Regicide, and M.P. for the
City of Winchester.
[9] From a paper in _The Crypt_, an antiquarian journal, printed
at Ringwood, Hants, in the year 1827. The writer observes that
Dr. Milner has uniformly applied the term _Saxon_ to the
circular arches in this structure, as well as to similar
specimens; but subsequent topographers have arrived at the more
probable conclusion, that very slight remains, if any, now exist
of ecclesiastical edifices by the Saxons.
* * * * *