LETTER XXX.

Trip to New Haven--Captain Stone and his Tender Feeling--Arrival in New

Haven--A Call from Dr. Bacon and the Rev. Mr. Dutton--Newspapers--The

Centre Church and Standing Order--The North Church and Jonathan

Edwards, junior.

Now for an excursion to New Haven. We leave by the steamer "Traveller,"

Captain Stone, at 61/2 A.M. Wrap yourself up well; it is piercing cold,

being the 30th of March. This boat is altogether different from the

boats on the Mississippi. It seems to belong to quite another species.

It is, however, admirably adapted for its purpose,--that of running

along a stormy coast. In the gentlemen's cabin are three tiers of

berths, one above another like so many book-shelves. The engine works

outside, like a top-sawyer. We shall pass "Hell Gate" directly; but

don't be alarmed. You would not have known it, had I not told you. The

Hog's Back, the Frying Pan, and other places of Knickerbocker

celebrity, are in this neighbourhood.

Let us go to the ladies' saloon. Well! I declare! There is a coloured

woman, and allowed to remain unmolested! Things improve as we approach

New England, and are much better even there than they were a few years

ago.

But here comes the captain muffled up. He brings with him a poor

sickly-looking woman, begs the ladies' pardon, and bids her sit down by

the stove and warm herself. He then tells the passengers her painful

story. The night before, in New York, this woman came on board, from

one of the Philadelphia boats, bringing with her a bed and a child. On

being spoken to by the captain, she informed him that she was on her

way from St. Louis to her home in Massachusetts,--that she had been

fifteen days upon the journey, and had two children with her. On being

asked where the other was, she replied, "There it is," pointing to the

bed, where, clad in its usual dress, the little sufferer, released from

the trials of life, lay extended in death. It had caught cold, and died

in her arms in New York. She was friendless and penniless, and wanted a

passage to New Haven. The captain had obtained a coroner's inquest over

the body, purchased for it a little coffin, had it decently laid out,

and gratified her maternal feelings by allowing her to bring it with

her, that it might be buried in her village-home in Massachusetts. All

this he had done without money and without price, had also given her a

free passage to New Haven, and was about to forward her home by railway

at his own expense! Captain _Stone_--"what's in a name?"--at the close

of this statement had to take out his pocket-handkerchief, and wipe

away a few manly tears from his weather-beaten cheeks, as he added, "I

have met in my life with many cases of distress, but with none that

came so much to my heart as this." His object, in introducing the woman

and her case, was to make an appeal to the passengers on her behalf. He

did so; and the result was a subscription amounting to about five

pounds sterling, which was handed over to her. Captain Stone's was a

deed worthy of a golden inscription!

It is half-past 11 A.M., and we are now at the landing-place in the

harbour of New Haven, having accomplished the distance from New York,

about 80 miles, in five hours! We have a long wharf of 3,943 feet to

travel; and then we set foot for the first time on the soil of New

England. We have been invited to make our abode here with the Rev.

Leicester Sawyer, who makes his abode at Deacon Wilcoxon's, corner of

Sherman-avenue and Park-street. Thither, therefore, let us go. Mr.

Sawyer, whom we had before met in New York, is the author of several

books, comprising two on Mental and Moral Philosophy, and was also

lately the President of the Central College of Ohio. Deacon Wilcoxon

and his wife are plain, homely, kind Christian people. They make you

feel at home as soon as you have crossed their threshold.

Soon after our arrival the Rev. Dr. Bacon and the Rev. Mr. Dutton, the

pastors of the "first" and "second" Congregational Churches in this

city, honour us with a call. This is brotherly, and more than we could

have expected. Dr. Bacon regrets that he is going from home, and cannot

have us to spend a few days at his house. Mr. Dutton, however, presses

us to accept of his hospitality. We promise to do so in a day or two.

Dr. Bacon is one of the great men of New England. He is a living

encyclopaedia,--a walking library. He keeps fully up with the

literature and sciences of the day. I have not met a man, either in the

Old World or in the New, that so thoroughly understood the state of the

British West Indies at the present time as he does. He might have spent

years in that part of the world, and devoted himself to its exclusive

study. His position at home is high, and his influence great. The

estimation in which he is held in New England may be judged of by the

fact, that when, in August 1846, Dr. Theodore Dwight Woolsey had to be

installed as President of Yale College, Dr. Bacon, living within a

stone's throw of that institution, was the man chosen to preach the

inauguration sermon.

In the middle of the afternoon, my friend Mr. Sawyer presses me to

preach in his place of worship--the Howe-street Church--this evening. I

consent. By-and-by I observe him very busy with some slips of paper;

and I ask him what he is doing? "I am sending," he says, "notices to

the evening papers, to make it known that you are going to preach this

evening!" What a people the Americans are for newspapers! New Haven has

only a population of about 18,000; and yet it has six daily papers--all

having a weekly issue besides, two monthly periodicals, and two

quarterly ones! The daily papers are, I believe, none of them more than

5 dollars (a guinea) a year, or 2 cents (one penny) per number. No

paper duty, and no stamp. At the service in the evening several

ministers and students were present.

The next day snow to the depth of six inches cover the ground. Let

_us_, however, turn out in the afternoon. We will go and see the

central square,--or the Green, as it is commonly called. This is a

large open space like a park, surrounded on all sides with rows of

stately elms, and is considered one of the most beautiful spots in the

United States. And now we are in a position to take a full view. Three

churches, arranged side by side on this open space, at a few rods from

each other, stand before us. The central one has the most imposing

aspect. It is a large Grecian building; having a portico, supported by

four massive columns, from which rises a lofty bell-tower, ending in a

spire. The combination of the belfry or spire with the Grecian style is

a violation of propriety; but _I like it_. This is the "first"

Congregational Church--that in which Dr. Bacon ministers. That

church--not the building--is coeval with the colony, and can trace back

its history for more than 200 years. It was formerly a State Church.

Congregationalism was for ages the "standing order," or the established

religion, in Connecticut! All the people were taxed for its support;

and no man could have any share in the administration of the civil

government, or give his vote in any election, unless he was a member of

one of the churches. It was not till forty years after the separation

of Church and State in Virginia, where the establishment was Episcopal,

that the example was followed in Connecticut. Happily, however, in 1816

all parties that differed from it--Episcopalians, Baptists, Methodists,

Universalists, &c., combined together, gained a majority in the

legislature, and severed the connection between Congregationalism and

the State! There are old men now living who then anxiously and piously

"trembled for the Ark of the Lord." They have, however, lived to see

that the dissolution of the union between Church and State in

Connecticut, as in Virginia, was to the favoured sect as "life from the

dead." The Congregationalist of the one, and the Episcopalian of the

other, would alike deprecate being placed in the same position again.

But this is a digression.

We are still looking at these churches. The church on our right, which

is about the same size and of the same architectural character as the

other, though not quite so showy, is the "second" Congregational

Church, commonly called the North Church--that in which Mr. Button now

ministers. This church originated in the "great awakening" in 1740, was

formed in 1742, and has a history of more than a century in duration.

It arose from dissatisfaction with the ministry of a Mr. Noyes, a

contemporary of Jonathan Edwards, but one who had no sympathy in

Edwards's views and spirit. This man was, indeed, greatly opposed to

the "awakening," and refused George Whitfield admission to his pulpit.

The originators of this second church, therefore, separated from the

original parent, availed themselves of the Act of Toleration, and

became Congregational Dissenters from a Congregational Establishment!

They had of course no State support, nor were they "free from taxation

by the society from which they dissented." "The foundations of this

church, my brethren," said its present gifted pastor, in a sermon

preached at the centenary of its formation, "are love of evangelical

doctrine, of ecclesiastical liberty, of revivals of religion. Such ever

be its superstructure."

Here, for a quarter of a century, lived and laboured Jonathan Edwards

the younger. Perhaps you have never before heard of him; neither had I

till I came to New Haven. If you won't think it too long to be detained

here standing in front of the church, I will tell you a few facts

respecting him. He was the second son and ninth child of the celebrated

Jonathan Edwards of Northampton. His mother, too, was an extraordinary

woman. You will smile at the impression she made on the mind of good

old George Whitfield. He had spent two days at Mr. Edwards's house in

Northampton; and he says, "I felt wonderful satisfaction in being at

the house of Mr. Edwards. He is a son himself, and hath a daughter of

Abraham for his wife. A sweeter couple I have not yet seen. She is a

woman adorned with a meek and quiet spirit, and talked so feelingly and

solidly of the things of God, and seemed to be such a helpmeet to her

husband, that she caused me to renew those prayers which for some

months I have put up to God, that he would send me a daughter of

Abraham to be my wife. I find, upon many accounts, it is my duty to

marry. Lord, I desire to have no choice of my own. Thou knowest my

circumstances."

In quoting this, an American writer adds, "He had not yet learned, if

he ever did, that God is not pleased to make such 'sweet couples' out

of persons who have no choice of their own."

Mr. Edwards, junior, or rather Dr. Edwards, was (like his father) a

great scholar and a profound divine. He was frequently invited to

assist at the examinations in Yale College. On those occasions he used

frequently to display his strictness and accuracy by calling out,

"_Haud recté_" (not right). This procured him the _sobriquet_ of "Old

Haud Recté," by which he was afterwards known among the students. Some

time after his resignation of the pastorate of this church he became

the President of Union College. His works have recently been published

in two large octavo volumes. There is a striking parallel between the

father and the son. They were alike in the character of their minds and

in their intellectual developments. The name, education, and early

employments of the two were alike. Both were pious in their youth; both

were distinguished scholars; both were tutors for equal periods in the

colleges where they were respectively educated; both were settled in

the ministry as successors to their maternal grandfathers; both were

dismissed, and again settled in retired places, where they had leisure

to prepare and publish their works; both were removed from those

stations to become presidents of colleges; both died shortly after

their respective inaugurations, the one in the 56th and the other in

the 57th year of their age; and each of them preached on the first

Sabbath of the year of his death from the same text--"This year thou

shalt die!"

But we must not dwell too long on these historical incidents. I have

told you something about the Centre Church and the North Church. That

Gothic building on our left is an episcopal church. That white building

immediately in the rear of the Centre Church is the State House,

completed in 1831. It is constructed of stone and marble, and forms a

prominent ornament of the city. It presents one of the best copies of a

Grecian temple I have seen in the States. In the rear of the North

Church, quite at the remote corner of the Green, stands a plain

barn-like Methodist chapel. And, behind the whole, peeping through the

elm-trees, you see the long range of buildings which constitutes Yale

College. Take it all in all, a view more interesting than that from the

spot on which we now stand I have never beheld.

American Scenes, and Christian Slavery A Recent Tour of Four Thousand Miles in the United States · 第 80 / 102 题