CHAPTER VIII.

Transcriber's Note:

This is Volume II of a three volume set:

Volume I--Unknown

Volume II--Famous

Volume III--Sunset

A combined index to the entire set is located at the end of Volume III.

Narrative content written by J. Cross and material quoted from writers

other than George Eliot are interspersed throughout the text. Their

content is placed in block quotes.

Remaining transcriber's notes are located at the end of the text.

* * * * *

GEORGE ELIOT'S LIFE

VOL. II.--FAMOUS

"OUR FINEST HOPE IS FINEST MEMORY"

[Illustration: Portrait of George Eliot. Engraved by G. J. Stodart.]

GEORGE ELIOT'S LIFE

_as related in her Letters and Journals_

ARRANGED AND EDITED BY HER HUSBAND

J. W. CROSS

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS

IN THREE VOLUMES.--VOLUME II

NEW YORK

HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE

GEORGE ELIOT'S WORKS.

_LIBRARY EDITION._

ADAM BEDE. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1.25.

DANIEL DERONDA. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $2.50.

ESSAYS and LEAVES FROM A NOTE-BOOK. 12mo, Cloth, $1.25.

FELIX HOLT, THE RADICAL. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1.25.

MIDDLEMARCH. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $2.50.

ROMOLA. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1.25.

SCENES OF CLERICAL LIFE, and SILAS MARNER. Illustrated. 12mo,

Cloth, $1.25.

THE IMPRESSIONS OF THEOPHRASTUS SUCH. 12mo, Cloth, $1.25.

THE MILL ON THE FLOSS. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1.25.

PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.

HARPER & BROTHERS _will send any of the above volumes by mail, postage

prepaid, to any part of the United States or Canada, on receipt of the

price. For other editions of George Eliot's works published by Harper

& Brothers see advertisement at end of third volume_.

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER VIII.

JANUARY, 1858, TO DECEMBER, 1858.

Success of "Scenes of Clerical Life"--"Adam Bede" Page 1

CHAPTER IX.

JANUARY, 1859, TO MARCH, 1860.

"The Mill on the Floss" 58

CHAPTER X.

MARCH TO JUNE, 1860.

First Journey to Italy 120

CHAPTER XI.

JULY, 1860, TO DECEMBER, 1861.

"Silas Marner"--"Romola" begun 185

CHAPTER XII.

JANUARY, 1862, TO DECEMBER, 1865.

"Romola"--"Felix Holt" 238

CHAPTER XIII.

JANUARY, 1866, TO DECEMBER, 1866.

Tour in Holland and on the Rhine 303

ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.

PORTRAIT OF GEORGE ELIOT.

Engraved by G. J. Stodart _Frontispiece._

THE PRIORY--DRAWING-ROOM _To face p._ 266

FAC-SIMILE OF GEORGE ELIOT'S HAND-WRITING " 280

GEORGE ELIOT'S LIFE.

CHAPTER VIII.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Jan. 2._--George has returned this evening from a week's visit to

Vernon Hill. On coming up-stairs he said, "I have some very pretty

news for you--something in my pocket." I was at a loss to conjecture,

and thought confusedly of possible opinions from admiring readers,

when he drew the _Times_ from his pocket--to-day's number, containing

a review of the "Scenes of Clerical Life." He had happened to ask a

gentleman in the railway carriage, coming up to London, to allow him

to look at the _Times_, and felt quite agitated and tremulous when his

eyes alighted on the review. Finding he had time to go into town

before the train started, he bought a copy there. It is a highly

favorable notice, and, as far as it goes, appreciatory.

When G. went into town he called at Nutt's, and Mrs. Nutt said to him,

"I think you don't know our curate. _He_ says the author of 'Clerical

Scenes' is a High Churchman; for though Mr. Tryan is said to be Low

Church, his feelings and _actions_ are those of a High Churchman."

(The curate himself being of course High Church.) There were some

pleasant scraps of admiration also gathered for me at Vernon Hill.

Doyle happening to mention the treatment of children in the stories,

Helps said, "Oh, he is a great writer!"

I wonder how I shall feel about these little details ten years hence,

if I am alive. At present I value them as grounds for hoping that my

writing may succeed, and so give value to my life; as indications that

I can touch the hearts of my fellow-men, and so sprinkle some precious

grain as the result of the long years in which I have been inert and

suffering. But at present fear and trembling still predominate over

hope.

_Jan. 5._--To-day the "Clerical Scenes" came in their two-volume

dress, looking very handsome.

_Jan. 8._--News of the subscription--580, with a probable addition of

25 for Longmans. Mudie has taken 350. When we used to talk of the

probable subscription, G. always said, "I dare say it will be 250!"

(The final number subscribed for was 650.)

I ordered copies to be sent to the following persons: Froude, Dickens,

Thackeray, Tennyson, Ruskin, Faraday, the author of "Companions of my

Solitude," Albert Smith, Mrs. Carlyle.

On the 20th of January I received the following letter from Dickens:

[Sidenote: Letter from Charles Dickens to George Eliot, 17th Jan.

1858.]

"TAVISTOCK HOUSE, LONDON, _Monday, 17th Jan. 1858_.

"MY DEAR SIR,--I have been so strongly affected by the two

first tales in the book you have had the kindness to send me,

through Messrs. Blackwood, that I hope you will excuse my

writing to you to express my admiration of their

extraordinary merit. The exquisite truth and delicacy, both

of the humor and the pathos of these stories, I have never

seen the like of; and they have impressed me in a manner that

I should find it very difficult to describe to you, if I had

the impertinence to try.

"In addressing these few words of thankfulness to the creator

of the Sad Fortunes of the Rev. Amos Barton, and the sad

love-story of Mr. Gilfil, I am (I presume) bound to adopt the

name that it pleases that excellent writer to assume. I can

suggest no better one: but I should have been strongly

disposed, if I had been left to my own devices, to address

the said writer as a woman. I have observed what seemed to me

such womanly touches in those moving fictions, that the

assurance on the title-page is insufficient to satisfy me

even now. If they originated with no woman, I believe that no

man ever before had the art of making himself mentally so

like a woman since the world began.

"You will not suppose that I have any vulgar wish to fathom

your secret. I mention the point as one of great interest to

me--not of mere curiosity. If it should ever suit your

convenience and inclination to show me the face of the man,

or woman, who has written so charmingly, it will be a very

memorable occasion to me. If otherwise, I shall always hold

that impalpable personage in loving attachment and respect,

and shall yield myself up to all future utterances from the

same source, with a perfect confidence in their making me

wiser and better.--Your obliged and faithful servant and

admirer,

"CHARLES DICKENS.

"GEORGE ELIOT, ESQ."

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Jan. 21._--To-day came the following letter from Froude:

[Sidenote: Letter from J. A. Froude to George Eliot, 17th Jan. 1858.]

"NORTHDOWN HOUSE, BIDEFORD, _17th Jan. 1858_.

"DEAR SIR,--I do not know when I have experienced a more

pleasant surprise than when, on opening a book parcel two

mornings ago, I found it to contain 'Scenes of Clerical

Life,' 'From the author.' I do not often see _Blackwood_; but

in accidental glances I had made acquaintance with 'Janet's

Repentance,' and had found there something extremely

different from general magazine stories. When I read the

advertisement of the republication, I intended fully, at my

leisure, to look at the companions of the story which had so

much struck me, and now I find myself sought out by the

person whose workmanship I had admired, for the special

present of it.

"You would not, I imagine, care much for flattering speeches,

and to go into detail about the book would carry me farther

than at present there is occasion to go. I can only thank you

most sincerely for the delight which it has given me; and

both I myself, and my wife, trust that the acquaintance which

we seem to have made with you through your writings may

improve into something more tangible. I do not know whether I

am addressing a young man or an old--a clergyman or a layman.

Perhaps, if you answer this note, you may give us some

information about yourself. But at any rate, should business

or pleasure bring you into this part of the world, pray

believe that you will find a warm welcome if you will accept

our hospitality.--Once more, with my best thanks, believe me,

faithfully yours,

J. A. FROUDE."

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 17th Jan. 1858.]

I have long ceased to feel any sympathy with mere antagonism and

destruction; and all crudity of expression marks, I think, a

deficiency in subtlety of thought as well as in breadth of moral and

poetic feeling. Mr. William Smith, the author of "Thorndale," is an

old acquaintance of Mr. Lewes's. I should say an old _friend_, only I

don't like the too ready use of that word. Mr. Lewes admires and

esteems him very highly. He is a very accomplished man--a bachelor,

with a small independent income; used to write very effective articles

on miscellaneous subjects in _Blackwood_. I shall like to know what

you think of "Thorndale." I don't know whether you look out for

Ruskin's books whenever they appear. His little book on the "Political

Economy of Art" contains some magnificent passages, mixed up with

stupendous specimens of arrogant absurdity on some economical points.

But I venerate him as one of the great teachers of the day. The grand

doctrines of truth and sincerity in art, and the nobleness and

solemnity of our human life, which he teaches with the inspiration of

a Hebrew prophet, must be stirring up young minds in a promising way.

The two last volumes of "Modern Painters" contain, I think, some of

the finest writing of the age. He is strongly akin to the sublimest

part of Wordsworth--whom, by-the-bye, we are reading with fresh

admiration for his beauties and tolerance for his faults. Our present

plans are: to remain here till about the end of March, then to go to

Munich, which I long to see. We shall live there several months,

seeing the wonderful galleries in leisure moments. Our living here is

so much more expensive than living abroad that we save more than the

expenses of our journeying; and as our work can be as well done there

as here for some months, we lay in much more capital, in the shape of

knowledge and experience, by going abroad.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Jan. 18._--I have begun the "Eumenides," having finished the

"Choephoræ." We are reading Wordsworth in the evening. At least G. is

reading him to me. I am still reading aloud Miss Martineau's History.

[Sidenote: Letter to John Blackwood, 21st Jan. 1858.]

I am sure you will be interested in Dickens's letter, which I enclose,

begging you to return it as soon as you can, and not to allow any one

besides yourself and Major Blackwood to share in the knowledge of its

contents. There can be no harm, of course, in every one's knowing that

Dickens admires the "Scenes," but I should not like any more specific

allusion made to the words of a private letter. There can hardly be

any climax of approbation for me after this; and I am so deeply moved

by the finely felt and finely expressed sympathy of the letter, that

the iron mask of my _incognito_ seems quite painful in forbidding me

to tell Dickens how thoroughly his generous impulse has been

appreciated. If you should have an opportunity of conveying this

feeling of mine to him in any way, you would oblige me by doing so.

By-the-bye, you probably remember sending me, some months ago, a

letter from the Rev. Archer Gurney--a very warm, simple-spoken

letter--praising me for qualities which I most of all care to be

praised for. I should like to send him a copy of the "Scenes," since I

could make no acknowledgment of his letter in any other way. I don't

know his address, but perhaps Mr. Langford would be good enough to

look it out in the Clergy List.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Jan. 23._--There appeared a well-written and enthusiastic article on

"Clerical Scenes" in the _Statesman_. We hear there was a poor

article in the _Globe_--of feebly written praise--the previous week,

but beyond this we have not yet heard of any notices from the press.

_Jan. 26._--Came a very pleasant letter from Mrs. Carlyle, thanking

the author of "Clerical Scenes" for the present of his book, praising

it very highly, and saying that her husband had promised to read it

when released from his mountain of history.

[Sidenote: Letter from Mrs. Carlyle to George Eliot, 21st Jan. 1858.]

"5 CHEYNE ROW, CHELSEA, _21st Jan. 1858_.

"DEAR SIR,--I have to thank you for a surprise, a pleasure,

and a--consolation (!) all in one book! And I do thank you

most sincerely. I cannot divine what inspired the good

thought to send _me_ your book; since (if the name on the

title-page be your real name) it could not have been personal

regard; there has never been a George Eliot among my friends

or acquaintance. But neither, I am sure, could _you_ divine

the circumstances under which I should read the book, and the

particular benefit it should confer on me! I read it--at

least the first volume--during one of the most (physically)

wretched nights of my life--sitting up in bed, unable to get

a wink of sleep for fever and sore throat--and it helped me

through that dreary night as well--better than the most

sympathetic helpful friend watching by my bedside could have

done!

"You will believe that the book needed to be something more

than a 'new novel' for me; that I _could_ at my years, and

after so much reading, read it in positive torment, and be

beguiled by it of the torment! that it needed to be the one

sort of book, however named, that still takes hold of me,

and that grows rarer every year--a _human_ book--written out

of the heart of a live man, not merely out of the brain of an

author--full of tenderness and pathos, without a scrap of

sentimentality, of sense without dogmatism, of earnestness

without twaddle--a book that makes one _feel friends_ at once

and for always with the man or woman who wrote it!

"In guessing at why you gave me this good gift, I have

thought amongst other things, 'Oh, perhaps it was a delicate

way of presenting the novel to my husband, he being over head

and ears in _history_.' If that was it, I compliment you on

your _tact_! for my husband is much likelier to read the

'Scenes' on _my_ responsibility than on a venture of his

own--though, as a general rule, never opening a novel, he has

engaged to read this one whenever he has some leisure from

his present task.

"I hope to know some day if the person I am addressing bears

any resemblance in external things to the idea I have

conceived of him in my mind--a man of middle age, with a

wife, from whom he has got those beautiful _feminine_ touches

in his book--a good many children, and a dog that he has as

much fondness for as I have for my little Nero! For the

rest--not just a clergyman, but brother or first cousin to a

clergyman! How ridiculous all this _may_ read beside the

reality. Anyhow--I honestly confess I am very curious about

you, and look forward with what Mr. Carlyle would call 'a

good, healthy, genuine desire' to shaking hands with you some

day.--In the meanwhile, I remain, your obliged

JANE W. CARLYLE."

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Jan. 30._--Received a letter from Faraday, thanking me very

gracefully for the present of the "Scenes." Blackwood mentions, in

enclosing this letter, that Simpkin & Marshall have sent for twelve

additional copies--the first sign of a move since the subscription.

The other night we looked into the life of Charlotte Brontë, to see

how long it was before "Jane Eyre" came into demand at the libraries,

and we found it was not until six weeks after publication. It is just

three weeks now since I heard news of the subscription for my book.

[Sidenote: Letter from M. Faraday to George Eliot, 28th Jan. 1858.]

"ROYAL INSTITUTION, _28th Jan. 1858_.

"SIR,--I cannot resist the pleasure of thanking you for what

I esteem a great kindness: the present of your thoughts

embodied in the two volumes you have sent me. They have been,

and will be again, a very pleasant relief from mental

occupation among my own pursuits. Such rest I find at times

not merely agreeable, but essential.--Again thanking you, I

beg to remain, your very obliged servant,

M. FARADAY.

"GEORGE ELIOT, Esq., &c., &c."

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Feb. 3._--Gave up Miss Martineau's History last night, after reading

some hundred pages in the second volume. She has a sentimental,

rhetorical style in this history which is fatiguing and not

instructive. But her history of the Reform movement is very

interesting.

_Feb. 4._--Yesterday brought the discouraging news, that though the

book is much talked of, it moves very slowly. Finished the

"Eumenides." Bessie Parkes has written asking me to contribute to the

_Englishwoman's Journal_--a new monthly which, she says, "We are

beginning with £1000, and great social interest."

_Feb. 16._--To-day G. went into the City and saw Langford, for the

sake of getting the latest news about our two books--his "Sea-side

Studies" having been well launched about a fortnight or ten days ago,

with a subscription of 800. He brought home good news. The "Clerical

Scenes" are moving off at a moderate but steady pace. Langford

remarked, that while the press had been uniformly favorable, not one

_critical_ notice had appeared. G. went to Parker's in the evening,

and gathered a little gossip on the subject. Savage, author of the

"Falcon Family," and now editor of the _Examiner_, said he was reading

the "Scenes"--had read some of them already in _Blackwood_--but was

now reading the volume. "G. Eliot was a writer of great merit." A

barrister named Smythe said he had seen "the Bishop" reading them the

other day. As a set-off against this, Mrs. Schlesinger "Couldn't bear

the book." She is a regular novel reader; but hers is the first

unfavorable opinion we have had.

_Feb. 26._--We went into town for the sake of seeing Mr. and Mrs.

Call, and having our photographs taken by Mayall.

_Feb. 28._--Mr. John Blackwood called on us, having come to London for

a few days only. He talked a good deal about the "Clerical Scenes" and

George Eliot, and at last asked, "Well, am I to see George Eliot this

time?" G. said, "Do you wish to see him?" "As he likes--I wish it to

be quite spontaneous." I left the room, and G. following me a moment,

I told him he might reveal me. Blackwood was kind, came back when he

found he was too late for the train, and said he would come to

Richmond again. He came on the following Friday and chatted very

pleasantly--told us that Thackeray spoke highly of the "Scenes," and

said _they were not written by a woman_. Mrs. Blackwood is _sure_ they

are not written by a woman. Mrs. Oliphant, the novelist, too, is

confident on the same side. I gave Blackwood the MS. of my new novel,

to the end of the second scene in the wood. He opened it, read the

first page, and smiling, said, "This will do." We walked with him to

Kew, and had a good deal of talk. Found, among other things, that he

had lived two years in Italy when he was a youth, and that he admires

Miss Austen.

Since I wrote these last notes several encouraging fragments of news

about the "Scenes" have come to my ears--especially that Mrs. Owen

Jones and her husband--two very different people--are equally

enthusiastic about the book. But both have detected the woman.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 2d March, 1858.]

Perhaps we may go to Dresden, perhaps not: we leave room for the

_imprévu_, which Louis Blanc found so sadly wanting in Mr. Morgan's

millennial village. You are among the exceptional people who say

pleasant things to their friends, and don't feel a too exclusive

satisfaction in their misfortunes. We like to hear of your interest in

Mr. Lewes's books--at least, _I_ am very voracious of such details. I

keep the pretty letters that are written to him; and we have had some

really important ones from the scientific big-wigs about the "Sea-side

Studies." The reception of the book in that quarter has been quite

beyond our expectations. Eight hundred copies were sold at once. There

is a great deal of close hard work in the book, and every one who

knows what scientific work is necessarily perceives this; happily

many have been generous enough to express their recognition in a

hearty way.

I enter so deeply into everything you say about your mother. To me

that old, old popular truism, "We can never have but one mother," has

worlds of meaning in it, and I think with more sympathy of the

satisfaction you feel in at last being allowed to wait on her than I

should of anything else you could tell me. I wish we saw more of that

sweet human piety that feels tenderly and reverently towards the aged.

[_Apropos_ of some incapable woman's writing she adds.] There is

something more piteous almost than soapless poverty in this

application of feminine incapacity to literature. We spent a very

pleasant couple of hours with Mr. and Mrs. Call last Friday. It was

worth a journey on a cold dusty day to see two faces beaming kindness

and happiness.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 26th March, 1858.]

I enclose a letter which will interest you. It is affecting to see how

difficult a matter it often is for the men who would most profit by a

book to purchase it, or even get a reading of it, while stupid Jopling

of Reading or elsewhere thinks nothing of giving a guinea for a work

which he will simply put on his shelves.

[Sidenote: Letter to Charles Bray, March, 1858.]

When do you bring out your new poem? I presume you are already in the

sixth canto. It is true you never told me you intended to write a

poem, nor have I heard any one say so who was likely to know.

Nevertheless I have quite as active an imagination as you, and I don't

see why I shouldn't suppose you are writing a poem as well as you

suppose that I am writing a novel. Seriously, I wish you would not set

rumors afloat about me. They are injurious. Several people, who seem

to derive their notions from Ivy Cottage,[1] have spoken to me of a

supposed novel I was going to bring out. Such things are damaging to

me.

[Sidenote: Letter to Charles Bray, 31st March, 1858.]

Thanks for your disclaimer. It shows me that you take a right view of

the subject. There is no undertaking more fruitful of absurd mistakes

than that of "guessing" at authorship; and as I have never

communicated to any one so much as an _intention_ of a literary kind,

there can be none but imaginary data for such guesses. If I withhold

anything from my friends which it would gratify them to know, you will

believe, I hope, that I have good reasons for doing so, and I am sure

those friends will understand me when I ask them to further my

object--which is not a whim but a question of solid interest--by

complete silence. I can't afford to indulge either in vanity or

sentimentality about my work. I have only a trembling anxiety to do

what is in itself worth doing, and by that honest means to win very

necessary profit of a temporal kind. "There is nothing hidden that

shall not be revealed" in due time. But till that time comes--till I

tell you myself, "This is the work of my hand and brain"--don't

believe anything on the subject. There is no one who is in the least

likely to know what I can, could, should, or would write.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_April 1, 1858._--Received a letter from Blackwood containing warm

praise of "Adam Bede," but wanting to know the rest of the story in

outline before deciding whether it should go in the Magazine. I wrote

in reply refusing to tell him the story.

On Wednesday evening, April 7th, we set off on our journey to Munich,

and now we are comfortably settled in our lodgings, where we hope to

remain three months at least. I sit down in my first leisure moments

to write a few recollections of our journey, or rather of our

twenty-four hours' stay at Nürnberg; for the rest of our journey was

mere endurance of railway and steamboat in cold and sombre weather,

often rainy. I ought to except our way from Frankfort to Nürnberg,

which lay for some distance--until we came to Bamberg--through a

beautifully varied country. Our view both of Würzburg and Bamberg, as

we hastily snatched it from our railway carriage, was very

striking--great old buildings, crowning heights that rise up boldly

from the plain in which stand the main part of the towns. From Bamberg

to Nürnberg the way lay through a wide rich plain sprinkled with

towns. We had left all the hills behind us. At Bamberg we were joined

in our carriage by a pleasant-looking elderly couple, who spoke to

each other and looked so affectionately that we said directly, "Shall

we be so when we are old?" It was very pretty to see them hold each

other's gloved hands for a minute like lovers. As soon as we had

settled ourselves in our inn at Nürnberg--the Baierische Hof--we went

out to get a general view of the town. Happily it was not raining,

though there was no sun to light up the roof and windows.

[Sidenote: Journal, April, 1858.]

How often I had thought I should like to see Nürnberg, and had

pictured to myself narrow streets with dark quaint gables! The reality

was not at all like my picture, but it was ten times better. No sombre

coloring, except the old churches: all was bright and varied, each

_façade_ having a different color--delicate green, or buff, or pink,

or lilac--every now and then set off by the neighborhood of a rich

reddish brown. And the roofs always gave warmth of color with their

bright red or rich purple tiles. Every house differed from its

neighbor, and had a physiognomy of its own, though a beautiful family

likeness ran through them all, as if the burghers of that old city

were of one heart and one soul, loving the same delightful outlines,

and cherishing the same daily habits of simple ease and enjoyment in

their balcony-windows when the day's work was done.

The balcony window is the secondary charm of the Nürnberg houses; it

would be the principal charm of any houses that had not the Nürnberg

roofs and gables. It is usually in the centre of the building, on the

first floor, and is ornamented with carved stone or wood, which

supports it after the fashion of a bracket. In several of these

windows we saw pretty family groups--young fair heads of girls or of

little children, with now and then an older head surmounting them. One

can fancy that these windows are the pet places for family joys--that

papa seats himself there when he comes home from the warehouse, and

the little ones cluster round him in no time. But the glory of the

Nürnberg houses is the roofs, which are no blank surface of mere

tiling, but are alive with lights and shadows, cast by varied and

beautiful lines of windows and pinnacles and arched openings. The

plainest roof in Nürnberg has its little windows lifting themselves up

like eyelids, and almost everywhere one sees the pretty hexagonal

tiles. But the better houses have a central, open sort of pavilion in

the roof, with a pinnacle surmounted by a weathercock. This pavilion

has usually a beautifully carved arched opening in front, set off by

the dark background which is left by the absence of glass. One

fancies the old Nürnbergers must have gone up to these pavilions to

smoke in the summer and autumn days. There is usually a brood of small

windows round this central ornament, often elegantly arched and

carved. A wonderful sight it makes to see a series of such roofs

surmounting the tall, delicate-colored houses. They are always

high-pitched, of course, and the color of the tiles was usually of a

bright red. I think one of the most charming vistas we saw was the

Adler-Gasse, on the St. Lorenz side of the town. Sometimes, instead of

the high-pitched roof, with its pavilion and windows, there is a

richly ornamented gable fronting the street; and still more frequently

we get the gables at right angles with the street at a break in the

line of houses.

Coming back from the Burg we met a detachment of soldiers, with their

band playing, followed by a stream of listening people; and then we

reached the market-place, just at the point where stands "The

Beautiful Fountain"--an exquisite bit of florid Gothic which has been

restored in perfect conformity with the original. Right before us

stood the Frauen-Kirche, with its fine and unusual _façade_, the chief

beauty being a central chapel used as the choir, and added by Adam

Krafft. It is something of the shape of a mitre, and forms a beautiful

gradation of ascent towards the summit of _façade_. We heard the organ

and were tempted to enter, for this is the one Catholic Church in

Nürnberg. The delicious sound of the organ and voices drew us farther

and farther in among the standing people, and we stayed there I don't

know how long, till the music ceased. How the music warmed one's

heart! I loved the good people about me, even to the soldier who stood

with his back to us, giving us a full view of his close-cropped head,

with its pale yellowish hair standing up in bristles on the crown, as

if his hat had acted like a forcing-pot. Then there was a little baby

in a close-fitting cap on its little round head, looking round with

bright black eyes as it sucked its bit of bread. Such a funny little

complete face--rich brown complexion and miniature Roman nose. And

then its mother lifted it up that it might see the rose-decked altar,

where the priests were standing. How music, that stirs all one's

devout emotions, blends everything into harmony--makes one feel part

of one whole which one loves all alike, losing the sense of a separate

self. Nothing could be more wretched as art than the painted St.

Veronica opposite me, holding out the sad face on her miraculous

handkerchief. Yet it touched me deeply; and the thought of the Man of

Sorrows seemed a very close thing--not a faint hearsay.

We saw Albert Dürer's statue by Rauch, and Albert Dürer's house--a

striking bit of old building, rich dark-brown, with a truncated gable

and two wooden galleries running along the gable end. My best wishes

and thanks to the artists who keep it in repair and use it for their

meetings. The vistas from the bridges across the muddy Pegnitz, which

runs through the town, are all quaint and picturesque; and it was here

that we saw some of the _shabbiest_-looking houses--almost the only

houses that carried any suggestion of poverty, and even here it was

doubtful. The town has an air of cleanliness and well-being, and one

longs to call one of those balconied apartments one's own home, with

their flower-pots, clean glass, clean curtains, and transparencies

turning their white backs to the street. It is pleasant to think there

is such a place in the world where many people pass peaceful lives.

On arriving at Munich, after much rambling, we found an advertisement

of "Zwei elegant möblirte Zimmer," No. 15 Luitpold Strasse; and to our

immense satisfaction found something that looked like cleanliness and

comfort. The bargain was soon made--twenty florins per month. So here

we came last Tuesday, the 13th April. We have been taking sips of the

Glyptothek and the two Pinacotheks in the morning, not having settled

to work yet. Last night we went to the opera--Fra Diavolo--at the

Hof-Theatre. The theatre ugly, the singing bad. Still, the orchestra

was good, and the charming music made itself felt in spite of German

throats. On Sunday, the 11th, we went to the Pinacothek, straight into

the glorious Rubens Saal. Delighted afresh in the picture of "Samson

and Delilah," both for the painting and character of the figures.

Delilah, a magnificent blonde, seated in a chair, with a transparent

white garment slightly covering her body, and a rich red piece of

drapery round her legs, leans forward, with one hand resting on her

thigh, the other, holding the cunning shears, resting on the chair--a

posture which shows to perfection the full, round, living arms. She

turns her head aside to look with sly triumph at Samson--a tawny

giant, his legs caught in the red drapery, shorn of his long locks,

furious with the consciousness that the Philistines are upon him, and

that this time he cannot shake them off. Above the group of malicious

faces and grappling arms a hand holds a flaming torch. Behind Delilah,

and grasping her arm, leans forward an old woman, with hard features

full of exultation.

This picture, comparatively small in size, hangs beside the "Last

Judgment," and in the corresponding space, on the other side of the

same picture, hangs the sublime "Crucifixion." Jesus alone, hanging

dead on the Cross, darkness over the whole earth. One can desire

nothing in this picture--the grand, sweet calm of the dead face, calm

and satisfied amidst all the traces of anguish, the real, livid flesh,

the thorough mastery with which the whole form is rendered, and the

isolation of the supreme sufferer, make a picture that haunts one like

a remembrance of a friend's death-bed.

_April 12 (Monday)._--After reading Anna Mary Howitt's book on Munich

and Overbeck on Greek art, we turned out into the delicious sunshine

to walk in the Theresien Wiese, and have our first look at the

colossal "Bavaria," the greatest work of Schwanthaler. Delightful it

was to get away from the houses into this breezy meadow, where we

heard the larks singing above us. The sun was still too high in the

west for us to look with comfort at the statue, except right in front

of it, where it eclipsed the sun; and this front view is the only

satisfactory one. The outline made by the head and arm on a side view

is almost painfully ugly. But in front, looking up to the beautiful,

calm face, the impression it produces is sublime. I have never seen

anything, even in ancient sculpture, of a more awful beauty than this

dark, colossal head, looking out from a background of pure, pale-blue

sky. We mounted the platform to have a view of her back, and then

walking forward, looked to our right hand and saw the snow-covered

Alps! Sight more to me than all the art in Munich, though I love the

_art_ nevertheless. The great, wide-stretching earth and the

all-embracing sky--the birthright of us all--are what I care most to

look at. And I feel intensely the new beauty of the sky here. The blue

is so exquisitely clear, and the wide streets give one such a broad

canopy of sky. I felt more inspirited by our walk to the Theresien

Platz than by any pleasure we have had in Munich.

_April 16._--On Wednesday we walked to the Theresien Wiese to look at

the "Bavaria" by sunset, but a shower came on and drove us to take

refuge in a pretty house built near the Ruhmeshalle, whereby we were

gainers, for we saw a charming family group: a mother with her three

children--the eldest a boy with his book, the second a three-year-old

maiden, the third a sweet baby-girl of a year and a half; two dogs,

one a mixture of the setter and pointer, the other a turn-spit; and a

relation or servant ironing. The baby cried at the sight of G. in

beard and spectacles, but kept her eyes turning towards him from her

mother's lap, every now and then seeming to have overcome her fears,

and then bursting out crying anew. At last she got down and lifted the

table-cloth to peep at his legs, as if to see the monster's nether

parts.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 17th April, 1858.]

We have been just to take a sip at the two Pinacotheks and at the

Glyptothek. At present the Rubens Saal is what I most long to return

to. Rubens gives me more pleasure than any other painter, whether that

is right or wrong. To be sure, I have not seen so many pictures, and

pictures of so high a rank, by any other great master. I feel sure

that when I have seen as much of Raphael I shall like him better; but

at present Rubens, more than any one else, makes me feel that painting

is a great art, and that he was a great artist. His are such real,

breathing men and women, moved by passions, not mincing and

grimacing, and posing in mere aping of passion! What a grand,

glowing, forceful thing life looks in his pictures--the men such

grand-bearded, grappling beings, fit to do the work of the world; the

women such real mothers. We stayed at Nürnberg only twenty-four hours,

and I felt sad to leave it so soon. A pity the place became

Protestant, so that there is only one Catholic church where one can go

in and out as one would. We turned into the famous St. Sebald's for a

minute, where a Protestant clergyman was reading in a cold, formal way

under the grand Gothic arches. Then we went to the Catholic church,

the Frauen-Kirche, where the organ and voices were giving forth a

glorious mass; and we stood with a feeling of brotherhood among the

standing congregation till the last note of the organ had died out.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_April 23._--Not being well enough to write, we determined to spend

our morning at the Glyptothek and Pinacothek. A glorious morning--all

sunshine and blue sky. We went to the Glyptothek first, and delighted

ourselves anew with the "Sleeping Faun," the "Satyr and Bacchus," and

the "Laughing Faun" (Fauno colla Macchia). Looked at the two young

satyrs reposing with the pipe in their hands--one of them charming in

the boyish, good-humored beauty of the face, but both wanting finish

in the limbs, which look almost as if they could be produced by a

turning-machine. But the conception of this often-repeated figure is

charming: it would make a garden seem more peaceful in the sunshine.

Looked at the old Silenus too, which is excellent. I delight in these

figures, full of droll animation, flinging some nature, in its broad

freedom, in the eyes of small-mouthed, mincing narrowness.

We went into the modern Saal also, glancing on our way at the

Cornelius frescoes, which seem to me stiff and hideous. An Adonis, by

Thorwaldsen, is very beautiful.

Then to the Pinacothek, where we looked at Albert Dürer's portrait

again, and many other pictures, among which I admired a group by

Jordaens: "A satyr eating, while a peasant shows him that he can blow

hot and cold at the same time;" the old grandmother nursing the child,

the father with the key in his hand, with which he has been amusing

baby, looking curiously at the satyr, the handsome wife, still more

eager in her curiosity, the quiet cow, the little boy, the dog and

cat--all are charmingly conceived.

_April 24._--As we were reading this afternoon Herr Oldenbourg came

in, invited us to go to his house on Tuesday, and chatted pleasantly

for an hour. He talked of Kaulbach, whom he has known very intimately,

being the publisher of the "Reineke Fuchs." The picture of the "Hunnen

Schlacht" was the first of Kaulbach's on a great scale. It created a

sensation, and the critics began to call it a "Weltgeschichtliches

Bild." Since then Kaulbach has been seduced into the complex,

wearisome, symbolical style, which makes the frescoes at Berlin

enormous puzzles.

When we had just returned from our drive in the Englische Garten,

Bodenstedt pleasantly surprised us by presenting himself. He is a

charming man, and promises to be a delightful acquaintance for us in

this strange town. He chatted pleasantly with us for half an hour,

telling us that he is writing a work, in five volumes, on the

"Contemporaries of Shakspeare," and indicating the nature of his

treatment of the Shakspearian drama--which is historical and

analytical. Presently he proposed that we should adjourn to his house

and have tea with him; and so we turned out all together in the bright

moonlight, and enjoyed his pleasant chat until ten o'clock. His wife

was not at home, but we were admitted to see the three sleeping

children--one a baby about a year and a half old, a lovely waxen

thing. He gave the same account of Kaulbach as we had heard from

Oldenbourg; spoke of Genelli as superior in genius, though he has not

the fortune to be recognized; recited some of Hermann Lingg's poetry,

and spoke enthusiastically of its merits. There was not a word of

detraction about any one--nothing to jar on one's impression of him as

a refined, noble-hearted man.

_April 27._--This has been a red-letter day. In the morning Professor

Wagner took us over his "Petrifacten Sammlung," giving us interesting

explanations; and before we left him we were joined by Professor

Martius, an animated, clever man, who talked admirably, and invited us

to his house. Then we went to Kaulbach's studio, talked with him, and

saw with especial interest the picture he is preparing as a present to

the New Museum. In the evening, after walking in the Theresien Wiese,

we went to Herr Oldenbourg's, and met Liebig the chemist, Geibel and

Heyse the poets, and Carrière, the author of a work on the

Reformation. Liebig is charming, with well-cut features, a low, quiet

voice, and gentle manners. It was touching to see his hands, the nails

black from the roots, the skin all grimed.

Heyse is like a painter's poet, ideally beautiful; rather brilliant in

his talk, and altogether pleasing. Geibel is a man of rather coarse

texture, with a voice like a kettledrum, and a steady determination to

deliver his opinions on every subject that turned up. But there was a

good deal of ability in his remarks.

_April 30._--After calling on Frau Oldenbourg, and then at Professor

Bodenstedt's, where we played with his charming children for ten

minutes, we went to the theatre to hear Prince Radziwill's music to

the "Faust." I admired especially the earlier part, the Easter morning

song of the spirits, the Beggar's song, and other things, until after

the scene in Auerbach's cellar, which is set with much humor and

fancy. But the scene between Faust and Marguerite is bad--"Meine Ruh

ist hin" quite pitiable, and the "König im Thule" not good. Gretchen's

second song, in which she implores help of the Schmerzensreiche,

touched me a good deal.

_May 1._--In the afternoon Bodenstedt called, and we agreed to spend

the evening at his house--a delightful evening. Professor Löher,

author of "Die Deutschen in America," and another much younger

_Gelehrter_, whose name I did not seize, were there.

_May 2._--Still rainy and cold. We went to the Pinacothek, and looked

at the old pictures in the first and second Saal. There are some very

bad and some fine ones by Albert Dürer: of the latter, a full length

figure of the Apostle Paul, with the head of Mark beside him, in a

listening attitude, is the one that most remains with me. There is a

very striking "Adoration of the Magi," by Johannes van Eyck, with much

merit in the coloring, perspective, and figures. Also, "Christ

carrying his Cross," by Albert Dürer, is striking. "A woman raised

from the dead by the imposition of the Cross" is a very elaborate

composition, by Böhms, in which the faces are of first-rate

excellence.

In the evening we went to the opera and saw the "Nord Stern."

_May 10._--Since Wednesday I have had a wretched cold and cough, and

been otherwise ill, but I have had several pleasures nevertheless. On

Friday, Bodenstedt called with Baron Schack to take us to Genelli's,

the artist of whose powers Bodenstedt had spoken to us with

enthusiastic admiration. The result to us was nothing but

disappointment; the sketches he showed us seemed to us quite destitute

of any striking merit. On Sunday we dined with Liebig, and spent the

evening at Bodenstedt's, where we met Professor Bluntschli, the

jurist, a very intelligent and agreeable man, and Melchior Meyr, a

maker of novels and tragedies, otherwise an ineffectual personage.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 10th May, 1858.]

Our life here is very agreeable--full of pleasant novelty, although we

take things quietly and observe our working hours just as if we were

at Richmond. People are so kind to us that we feel already quite at

home, sip _baierisch Bier_ with great tolerance, and talk bad German

with more and more _aplomb_. The place, you know, swarms with

professors of all sorts--all _gründlich_, of course, and one or two of

them great. There is no one we are more charmed with than Liebig. Mr.

Lewes had no letter to him--we merely met him at an evening party; yet

he has been particularly kind to us, and seems to have taken a

benevolent liking to me. We dined with him and his family yesterday,

and saw how men of European celebrity may put up with greasy cooking

in private life. He lives in very good German style, however; has a

handsome suite of apartments, and makes a greater figure than most of

the professors. His manners are charming--easy, graceful, benignant,

and all the more conspicuous because he is so quiet and low spoken

among the loud talkers here. He looks best in his laboratory, with his

velvet cap on, holding little phials in his hand, and talking of

Kreatine and Kreatinine in the same easy way that well-bred ladies

talk scandal. He is one of the professors who has been called here by

the present king--Max--who seems to be a really sensible man among

kings; gets up at five o'clock in the morning to study, and every

Saturday evening has a gathering of the first men in science and

literature, that he may benefit by their opinions on important

subjects. At this _Tafel-rund_ every man is required to say honestly

what he thinks; every one may contradict every one else; and if the

king suspects any one of a polite insincerity, the too polished man is

invited no more. Liebig, the three poets--Geibel, Heyse, and

Bodenstedt--and Professor Löher, a writer of considerable mark, are

always at the _Tafel-rund_ as an understood part of their functions;

the rest are invited according to the king's direction. Bodenstedt is

one of our best friends here--enormously instructed, after the fashion

of Germans, but not at all stupid with it.

We were at the Siebolds' last night to meet a party of celebrities,

and, what was better, to see the prettiest little picture of married

life--the great comparative anatomist (Siebold) seated at the piano in

his spectacles playing the difficult accompaniments to Schubert's

songs, while his little round-faced wife sang them with much taste and

feeling. They are not young. Siebold is gray, and probably more than

fifty; his wife perhaps nearly forty; and it is all the prettier to

see their admiration of each other. She said to Mr. Lewes, when he

was speaking of her husband, "Ja, er ist ein netter Mann, nicht

wahr?"[2]

We take the art in very small draughts at present--the German hours

being difficult to adjust to our occupations. We are obliged to dine

at _one!_ and of course when we are well enough must work till then.

Two hours afterwards all the great public exhibitions are closed,

except the churches. I _cannot_ admire much of the modern German art.

It is for the most part elaborate lifelessness. Kaulbach's great

compositions are huge charades; and I have seen nothing of his equal

to his own "Reineke Fuchs." It is an unspeakable relief, after staring

at one of his pictures--the "Destruction of Jerusalem," for example,

which is a regular child's puzzle of symbolism--to sweep it all out of

one's mind--which is very easily done, for nothing grasps you in

it--and call up in your imagination a little Gerard Dow that you have

seen hanging in a corner of one of the cabinets. We have been to his

_atelier_, and he has given us a proof of his "Irrenhaus,"[3] a

strange sketch, which he made years ago--very terrible and powerful.

He is certainly a man of great faculty, but is, I imagine, carried out

of his true path by the ambition to produce "Weltgeschichtliche

Bilder," which the German critics may go into raptures about. His

"Battle of the Huns," which is the most impressive of all his great

pictures, was the first of the series. He painted it simply under the

inspiration of the grand myth about the spirits of the dead warriors

rising and carrying on the battle in the air. Straightway the German

critics began to smoke furiously that vile tobacco which they call

_æsthetik_, declared it a "Weltgeschichtliches Bild," and ever since

Kaulbach has been concocting these pictures in which, instead of

taking a single moment of reality and trusting to the infinite

symbolism that belongs to all nature, he attempts to give you at one

view a succession of events--each represented by some group which may

mean "Whichever you please, my little dear."

I must tell you something else which interested me greatly, as the

first example of the kind that has come under my observation. Among

the awful mysterious names, hitherto known only as marginal references

whom we have learned to clothe with ordinary flesh and blood, is

Professor Martius (Spix and Martius), now an old man, and rich after

the manner of being rich in Germany. He has a very sweet wife--one of

those women who remain pretty and graceful in old age--and a family of

three daughters and one son, all more than grown up. I learned that

she is Catholic, that her daughters are Catholic, and her husband and

son Protestant--the children having been so brought up according to

the German law in cases of mixed marriage. I can't tell you how

interesting it was to me to hear her tell of her experience in

bringing up her son conscientiously as a Protestant, and then to hear

her and her daughters speak of the exemplary priests who had shown

them such tender fatherly care when they were in trouble. They are the

most harmonious, affectionate family we have seen; and one delights in

such a triumph of human goodness over the formal logic of theorists.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_May 13._--Geibel came and brought me the two volumes of his poems,

and stayed chatting for an hour. We spent the evening quietly at

home.

_May 14._--After writing, we went for an hour to the Pinacothek, and

looked at some of the Flemish pictures. In the afternoon we called at

Liebig's, and he went a long walk with us--the long chain of snowy

mountains in the hazy distance. After supper I read Geibel's "Junius

Lieder."

_May 15._--Read the 18th chapter of "Adam Bede" to G. He was much

pleased with it. Then we walked in the Englische Garten, and heard the

band, and saw the Germans drinking their beer. The park was lovely.

_May 16._--We were to have gone to Grosshesselohe with the Siebolds,

and went to Frühstück with them at 12, as a preliminary. Bodenstedt

was there to accompany us. But heavy rain came on, and we spent the

time till 5 o'clock in talking, hearing music, and listening to

Bodenstedt's "Epic on the destruction of Novgorod." About seven,

Liebig came to us and asked us to spend the evening at his house. We

went and found Voelderndorff, Bischoff and his wife, and Carrière and

Frau.

_May 20._--As I had a feeble head this morning, we gave up the time to

seeing pictures, and went to the _Neue Pinacothek_. A "Lady with

Fruit, followed by three Children," pleased us more than ever. It is

by Wichmann. The two interiors of Westminster Abbey by Ainmueller

admirable. Unable to admire Rothmann's Greek Landscapes, which have a

room to themselves. Ditto Kaulbach's "Zerstörung von Jerusalem."

We went for the first time to see the collection of porcelain

paintings, and had really a rich treat. Many of them are admirable

copies of great pictures. The sweet "Madonna and Child," in Raphael's

early manner; a "Holy Family," also in the early manner, with a

Madonna the exact type of the St. Catherine; and a "Holy Family" in

the later manner, something like the Madonna Delia Sedia, are all

admirably copied. So are two of Andrea del Sarto's--full of tenderness

and calm piety.

_May 23._--Through the cold wind and white dust we went to the

Jesuits' Church to hear the music. It is a fine church in the

Renaissance style, the vista terminating with the great altar very

fine, with all the crowd of human beings covering the floor. Numbers

of men!

In the evening we went to Bodenstedt's, and saw his wife for the first

time--a delicate creature who sang us some charming Bavarian

_Volkslieder_. On Monday we spent the evening at Löher's--Baumgarten,

_ein junger Historiker_, Oldenbourg, and the Bodenstedts meeting us.

Delicious _Mai-trank_, made by putting the fresh _Waldmeister_--a

cruciferous plant with a small white flower, something like Lady's

Bedstraw--into mild wine, together with sugar, and occasionally other

things.

_May 26._--This evening I have read aloud "Adam Bede," chapter xx. We

have begun Ludwig's "Zwischen Himmel und Erde."

_May 27._--We called on the Siebolds to-day, then walked in the

Theresien Wiese, and saw the mountains gloriously. Spent the evening

at Prof. Martius's, where Frau Erdl played Beethoven's Andante and the

Moonlight Sonata admirably.

_May 28._--We heard from Blackwood this morning. Good news in general,

but the sale of our books not progressing at present.

[Sidenote: Letter to John Blackwood, 28th May, 1858.]

It is invariably the case that when people discover certain points of

coincidence in a fiction with facts that happen to have come to their

knowledge, they believe themselves able to furnish a key to the whole.

That is amusing enough to the author, who knows from what widely

sundered portions of experience--from what a combination of subtle,

shadowy suggestions, with certain actual objects and events, his story

has been formed. It would be a very difficult thing for me to furnish

a key to my stories myself. But where there is no exact memory of the

past, any story with a few remembered points of character or of

incident may pass for a history.

We pay for our sight of the snowy mountains here by the most

capricious of climates. English weather is steadfast compared with

Munich weather. You go to dinner here in summer and come away from it

in winter. You are languid among trees and feathery grass at one end

of the town, and are shivering in a hurricane of dust at the other.

This inconvenience of climate, with the impossibility of dining (well)

at any other hour than one o'clock is not friendly to the

stomach--that great seat of the imagination. And I shall never advise

an author to come to Munich except _ad interim_. The great Saal, full

of Rubens's pictures, is worth studying; and two or three precious

bits of sculpture, and the sky on a fine day, always puts one in a

good temper--it is so deliciously clear and blue, making even the

ugliest buildings look beautiful by the light it casts on them.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_May 30._--We heard "William Tell"--a great enjoyment to me.

_June 1._--To Grosshesselohe with a party. Siebold and his wife, Prof.

Löher, Fräulein von List, Fräulein Thiersch, Frau von Schaden and her

pretty daughter. It was very pretty to see Siebold's delight in

nature--the Libellulæ, the Blindworm, the crimson and black Cicadæ,

the Orchidæ. The strange whim of Schwanthaler's--the Burg von

Schwaneck--was our destination.

_June 10._--For the last week my work has been rather scanty owing to

bodily ailments. I am at the end of chapter xxi., and am this morning

going to begin chapter xxii. In the interim our chief pleasure had

been a trip to Starnberg by ourselves.

_June 13._--This morning at last free from headache, and able to

write. I am entering on my history of the birthday with some fear and

trembling. This evening we walked, between eight and half-past nine,

in the Wiese, looking towards Nymphenburg. The light delicious--the

west glowing; the faint crescent moon and Venus pale above it; the

larks filling the air with their songs, which seemed only a little way

above the ground.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 14th June, 1858.]

Words are very clumsy things. I like less and less to handle my

friends' sacred feelings with them. For even those who call themselves

intimate know very little about each other--hardly ever know just

_how_ a sorrow is felt, and hurt each other by their very attempts at

sympathy or consolation. We can bear no hand on our bruises. And so I

feel I have no right to say that I know _how_ the loss of your

mother--"the only person who ever leaned on you"--affects you. I only

know that it must make a deeply-felt crisis in your life, and I know

that the better from having felt a great deal about my own mother and

father, and from having the keenest remembrance of all that

experience. But for this very reason I know that I can't measure what

the event is to you; and if I were near you I should only kiss you and

say nothing. People talk of the feelings dying out as one gets older;

but at present my experience is just the contrary. All the serious

relations of life become so much more real to me--pleasure seems so

slight a thing, and sorrow and duty and endurance so great. I find the

least bit of real human life touch me in a way it never did when I was

younger.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_June 17._--This evening G. left me to set out on his journey to

Hofwyl to see his boys.

_June 18._--Went with the Siebolds to Nymphenburg; called at Professor

Knapp's, and saw Liebig's sister, Frau Knapp--a charming,

gentle-mannered woman, with splendid dark eyes.

_June 22._--Tired of loneliness, I went to the Frau von Siebold,

chatted with her over tea, and then heard some music.

_June 23._--My kind little friend (Frau von Siebold) brought me a

lovely bouquet of roses this morning, and invited me to go with them

in the evening to the theatre to see the new comedy, the "Drei

Candidaten," which I did: a miserably poor affair.

_June 24._--G. came in the evening, at 10 o'clock--after I had

suffered a great deal in thinking of the possibilities that might

prevent him from coming.

_June 25._--This morning I have read to G. all I have written during

his absence, and he approves it more than I expected.

_July 7._--This morning we left Munich, setting out in the rain to

Rosenheim by railway. The previous day we dined, and sat a few hours

with the dear, charming Siebolds, and parted from them with

regret--glad to leave Munich, but not to leave the friends who had

been so kind to us. For a week before I had been ill--almost a luxury,

because of the love that tended me. But the general languor and sense

of depression produced by Munich air and way of life was no luxury,

and I was glad to say a last good-bye to the quaint pepper-boxes of

the Frauen-Kirche.

[Sidenote: Munich to Dresden, 1858.]

At the Rosenheim station we got into the longest of omnibuses, which

took us to the _Gasthof_, where we were to dine and lunch, and then

mount into the _Stell-wagen_, which would carry us to Prien, on the

borders of the Chiem See. Rosenheim is a considerable and rather

quaint-looking town, interrupted by orchards and characterized in a

passing glance by the piazzas that are seen everywhere fronting the

shops. It has a grand view of the mountains, still a long way off. The

afternoon was cloudy, with intermittent rain, and did not set off the

landscape. Nevertheless, I had much enjoyment in this four or five

hours' journey to Prien. The little villages, with picturesque, wide

gables, projecting roofs, and wooden galleries--with abundant

orchards--with felled trunks of trees and stacks of fir-wood, telling

of the near neighborhood of the forest--were what I liked best in this

ride.

We had no sooner entered the steamboat to cross the Chiem See than it

began to rain heavily, and I kept below, only peeping now and then at

the mountains and the green islands, with their monasteries. From the

opposite bank of the See we had a grand view of the mountains, all

dark purple under the clouded sky. Before us was a point where the

nearer mountains opened and allowed us a view of their more distant

brethren receding in a fainter and fainter blue--a marsh in the

foreground, where the wild-ducks were flying. Our drive from this end

of the lake to Traunstein was lovely--through fertile, cultivated

land, everywhere married to bits of forest. The green meadow or the

golden corn sloped upward towards pine woods, or the bushy greenness

seemed to run with wild freedom far out into long promontories among

the ripening crops. Here and there the country had the aspect of a

grand park from the beautiful intermingling of wood and field, without

any line of fence.

Then came the red sunset, and it was dark when we entered Traunstein,

where we had to pass the night. Among our companions in the day's

journey had been a long-faced, cloaked, slow and solemn man, whom

George called the author of "Eugene Aram," and I Don Quixote, he was

so given to serious remonstrance with the vices he met on the road. We

had been constantly deceived in the length of our stages--on the

principle, possibly, of keeping up our spirits. The next morning there

was the same tenderness shown about the starting of the _Stell-wagen_:

at first it was to start at seven, then at half-past, then when

another _Wagen_ came with its cargo of passengers. This was too much

for Don Quixote; and when the stout, red-faced _Wirth_ had given him

still another answer about the time of starting, he began, in slow and

monotonous indignation, "Warum lügen sie so? Sie werden machen dass

kein Mensch diesen Weg kommen wird,"[4] etc. Whereupon the _Wirth_

looked red-faced, stout, and unwashed as before, without any

perceptible expression of face supervening.

The next morning the weather looked doubtful, and so we gave up

going to the König See for that day, determining to ramble on the

Mönchsberg and enjoy the beauties of Salzburg instead. The morning

brightened as the sun ascended, and we had a delicious ramble on the

Mönchsberg--looking down on the lovely, peaceful plain, below the

grand old Untersberg, where the sleeping Kaiser awaits his

resurrection in that "good time coming;" watching the white mist

floating along the sides of the dark mountains, and wandering under

the shadow of the plantation, where the ground was green with

luxuriant hawkweed, as at Nymphenburg, near Munich. The outline of the

castle and its rock is remarkably fine, and reminded us of Gorey in

Jersey. But we had a still finer view of it when we drove out to

Aigen. On our way thither we had sight of the Watzmann, the highest

mountain in Bavarian Tyrol--emerging from behind the great shoulder of

the Untersberg. It was the only mountain within sight that had snow on

its summit. Once at Aigen, and descended from our carriage, we had a

delicious walk, up and up, along a road of continual steps, by the

course of the mountain-stream, which fell in a series of cascades over

great heaps of bowlders; then back again, by a round-about way, to our

vehicle and home, enjoying the sight of old Watzmann again, and the

grand mass of Salzburg Castle on its sloping rock.

We encountered a _table-d'hôte_ acquaintance who had been to

Berchtesgaden and the König See, driven through the salt-mine, and had

had altogether a perfect expedition on this day, when we had not had

the courage to set off. Never mind! we had enjoyed our day.

We thought it wisest the next morning to renounce the König See, and

pursue our way to Ischl by the _Stell-wagen_. We were fortunate enough

to secure two places in the _coupé_, and I enjoyed greatly the quiet

outlook, from my comfortable corner, on the changing landscape--green

valley and hill and mountain; here and there a picturesque Tyrolese

village, and once or twice a fine lake.

The greatest charm of charming Ischl is the crystal Traun, surely the

purest of streams. Away again early the next morning in the _coupé_ of

the _Stell-wagen_, through a country more and more beautiful--high,

woody mountains sloping steeply down to narrow, fertile, green

valleys, the road winding amongst them so as to show a perpetual

variety of graceful outlines where the sloping mountains met in the

distance before us. As we approached the Gmunden See the masses became

grander and more rocky, and the valley opened wider. It was Sunday,

and when we left the _Stell-wagen_ we found quite a crowd in Sunday

clothes standing round the place of embarkation for the steamboat that

was to take us along the lake. Gmunden is another pretty place at the

head of the lake, but apart from this one advantage inferior to Ischl.

We got on to the slowest of railways here, getting down at the station

near the falls of the Traun, where we dined at the pleasant inn, and

fed our eyes on the clear river again hurrying over the rocks. Behind

the great fall there is a sort of inner chamber, where the water

rushes perpetually over a stone altar. At the station, as we waited

for the train, it began to rain, and the good-natured looking woman

asked us to take shelter in her little station-house--a single room

not more than eight feet square, where she lived with her husband and

two little girls all the year round. The good couple looked more

contented than half the well-lodged people in the world. He used to be

a _drozchky_ driver; and after that life of uncertain gains, which had

many days quite penniless and therefore dinnerless, he found his

present position quite a pleasant lot.

On to Linz, when the train came, gradually losing sight of the

Tyrolean mountains and entering the great plain of the Danube. Our

voyage the next day in the steamboat was unfortunate: we had incessant

rain till we had passed all the finest parts of the banks. But when we

had landed, the sun shone out brilliantly, and so our entrance into

Vienna, through the long suburb, with perpetual shops and odd names

(Prschka, for example, which a German in our omnibus thought not at

all remarkable for consonants!) was quite cheerful. We made our way

through the city and across the bridge to the Weissen Ross, which was

full; so we went to the Drei Rosen, which received us. The sunshine

was transient; it began to rain again when we went out to look at St.

Stephen's, but the delight of seeing that glorious building could not

be marred by a little rain. The tower of this church is worth going to

Vienna to see.

The aspect of the city is that of an inferior Paris; the shops have an

elegance that one sees nowhere else in Germany; the streets are clean,

the houses tall and stately. The next morning we had a view of the

town from the Belvedere Terrace; St. Stephen's sending its exquisite

tower aloft from among an almost level forest of houses and

inconspicuous churches. It is a magnificent collection of pictures at

the Belvedere; but we were so unfortunate as only to be able to see

them once, the gallery being shut up on the Wednesday; and so, many

pictures have faded from my memory, even of those which I had time to

distinguish. Titian's Danae was one that delighted us; besides this I

remember Giorgione's Lucrezia Borgia, with the cruel, cruel eyes; the

remarkable head of Christ; a proud Italian face in a red garment, I

think by Correggio; and two heads by Denner, the most wonderful of all

his wonderful heads that I have seen. There is an Ecce Homo by Titian

which is thought highly of, and is splendid in composition and color,

but the Christ is abject, the Pontius Pilate vulgar: amazing that they

could have been painted by the same man who conceived and executed the

Christo della Moneta! There are huge Veroneses, too, splendid and

interesting.

The Liechtenstein collection we saw twice, and that remains with me

much more distinctly--the room full of Rubens's history of Decius,

more magnificent even than he usually is in color; then his glorious

Assumption of the Virgin, and opposite to it the portraits of his two

boys; the portrait of his lovely wife going to the bath with brown

drapery round her; and the fine portraits by Vandyke, especially the

pale, delicate face of Wallenstein, with blue eyes and pale auburn

locks.

Another great pleasure we had at Vienna--next after the sight of St.

Stephen's and the pictures--was a visit to Hyrtl, the anatomist, who

showed us some of his wonderful preparations, showing the vascular and

nervous systems in the lungs, liver, kidneys, and intestinal canal of

various animals. He told us the deeply interesting story of the loss

of his fortune in the Vienna revolution of '48. He was compelled by

the revolutionists to attend on the wounded for three days' running.

When at last he came to his house to change his clothes he found

nothing but four bare walls! His fortune in Government bonds was

burned along with the house, as well as all his precious collection

of anatomical preparations, etc. He told us that since that great

shock his nerves have been so susceptible that he sheds tears at the

most trifling events, and has a depression of spirits which often

keeps him silent for days. He only received a very slight sum from

Government in compensation for his loss.

One evening we strolled in the Volksgarten and saw the "Theseus

killing the Centaur," by Canova, which stands in a temple built for

its reception. But the garden to be best remembered by us was that at

Schönbrunn, a labyrinth of stately avenues with their terminal

fountains. We amused ourselves for some time with the menagerie here,

the lions especially, who lay in dignified sleepiness till the

approach of feeding-time made them open eager eyes and pace

impatiently about their dens.

We set off from Vienna in the evening with a family of Wallachians as

our companions, one of whom, an elderly man, could speak no German,

and began to address G. in Wallachian, as if that were the common

language of all the earth. We managed to sleep enough for a night's

rest, in spite of intense heat and our cramped positions, and arrived

in very good condition at Prague in the fine morning.

Out we went after breakfast, that we might see as much as possible of

the grand old city in one day; and our morning was occupied chiefly in

walking about and getting views of striking exteriors. The most

interesting things we saw were the Jewish burial-ground (the Alter

Friedhof) and the old synagogue. The Friedhof is unique--with a wild

growth of grass and shrubs and trees, and a multitude of quaint tombs

in all sorts of positions, looking like the fragments of a great

building, or as if they had been shaken by an earthquake. We saw a

lovely dark-eyed Jewish child here, which we were glad to kiss in all

its dirt. Then came the sombre old synagogue, with its smoked groins,

and lamp forever burning. An intelligent Jew was our _cicerone_, and

read us some Hebrew out of the precious old book of the law.

After dinner we took a carriage and went across the wonderful bridge

of St. Jean Nepomuck, with its avenue of statues, towards the

Radschin--an ugly, straight-lined building, but grand in effect from

its magnificent site, on the summit of an eminence crowded with old,

massive buildings. The view from this eminence is one of the most

impressive in the world--perhaps as much from one's associations with

Prague as from its visible grandeur and antiquity. The cathedral close

to the Radschin is a melancholy object on the outside--left with

unfinished sides like scars. The interior is rich, but sadly confused

in its ornamentation, like so many of the grand old churches--hideous

altars of bastard style disgracing exquisite Gothic columns--cruellest

of all in St. Stephen's at Vienna!

We got our view from a _Damen Stift_[5] (for ladies of family),

founded by Maria Theresa, whose blond beauty looked down on us from a

striking portrait. Close in front of us, sloping downwards, was a

pleasant orchard; then came the river, with its long, long bridge and

grand gateway; then the sober-colored city, with its surrounding plain

and distant hills. In the evening we went to the theatre--a shabby,

ugly building--and heard Spohr's Jessonda.

[Sidenote: Dresden, 1858.]

The next morning early by railway to Dresden--a charming journey, for

it took us right through the Saxon Switzerland, with its castellated

rocks and firs. At four o'clock we were dining comfortably at the

Hotel de Pologne, and the next morning (Sunday) we secured our

lodgings--a whole apartment of six rooms, all to ourselves, for 18_s._

per week! By nine o'clock we were established in our new home, where

we were to enjoy six weeks' quiet work, undisturbed by visits and

visitors. And so we did. We were as happy as princes--are not--George

writing at the far corner of the great _salon_, I at my _Schrank_ in

my own private room, with closed doors. Here I wrote the latter half

of the second volume of "Adam Bede" in the long mornings that our

early hours--rising at six o'clock--secured us. Three mornings in the

week we went to the Picture Gallery from twelve till one. The first

day we went was a Sunday, when there is always a crowd in the Madonna

Cabinet. I sat down on the sofa opposite the picture for an instant,

but a sort of awe, as if I were suddenly in the living presence of

some glorious being, made my heart swell too much for me to remain

comfortably, and we hurried out of the room. On subsequent mornings we

always came in, the last minutes of our stay, to look at this

sublimest picture, and while the others, except the Christo della

Moneta and Holbein's Madonna, lost much of their first interest, this

became harder and harder to leave. Holbein's Madonna is very

exquisite--a divinely gentle, golden haired blonde, with eyes cast

down, in an attitude of unconscious, easy grace--the loveliest of all

the Madonnas in the Dresden Gallery except the Sistine. By the side

of it is a wonderful portrait by Holbein, which I especially enjoyed

looking at. It represents nothing more lofty than a plain, weighty man

of business, a goldsmith; but the eminently fine painting brings out

all the weighty, calm, good sense that lies in a first-rate character

of that order.

We looked at the Zinsgroschen (Titian's), too, every day, and after

that at the great painter's Venus, fit for its purity and sacred

loveliness to hang in a temple with Madonnas. Palma's Venus, which

hangs near, was an excellent foil, because it is pretty and pure in

itself; but beside the Titian it is common and unmeaning.

Another interesting case of comparison was that between the original

Zinsgroschen and a copy by an Italian painter, which hangs on the

opposite wall of the cabinet. This is considered a fine copy, and

would be a fine picture if one had never seen the original; but all

the finest effects are gone in the copy.

The four large Correggios hanging together--the _Nacht_; the Madonna

with St. Sebastian, of the smiling graceful character, with the little

cherub riding astride a cloud; the Madonna with St. Hubert; and a

third Madonna, very grave and sweet--painted when he was

nineteen--remained with me very vividly. They are full of life, though

the life is not of a high order; and I should have surmised, without

any previous knowledge, that the painter was among the first masters

of _technique_. The Magdalen is sweet in conception, but seems to have

less than the usual merit of Correggio's pictures as to painting. A

picture we delighted in extremely was one of Murillo's--St. Rodriguez,

fatally wounded, receiving the Crown of Martyrdom. The attitude and

expression are sublime, and strikingly distinguished from all other

pictures of saints I have ever seen. He stands erect in his scarlet

and white robes, with face upturned, the arms held simply downward,

but the hands held open in a receptive attitude. The silly cupid-like

angel holding the martyr's crown in the corner spoils all.

I did not half satisfy my appetite for the rich collection of Flemish

and Dutch pictures here--for Teniers, Ryckart, Gerard Dow, Terburg,

Mieris, and the rest. Rembrandt looks great here in his portraits, but

I like none of the other pictures by him; the Ganymede is an offence.

Guido is superlatively odious in his Christs, in agonized or ecstatic

attitudes--much about the level of the accomplished London beggar.

Dear, grand old Rubens does not show to great advantage, except in the

charming half-length Diana returning from Hunting, the Love Garden,

and the sketch of his Judgment of Paris.

The most popular Murillo, and apparently one of the most popular

Madonnas in the gallery, is the simple, sad mother with her child,

without the least divinity in it, suggesting a dead or sick father,

and imperfect nourishment in a garret. In that light it is touching. A

fellow-traveller in the railway to Leipzig told us he had seen this

picture in 1848 with nine bullet holes in it! The firing from the

hotel of the Stadt Rom bore directly on the Picture Gallery.

Veronese is imposing in one of the large rooms--the Adoration of the

Magi, the Marriage at Cana, the Finding of Moses, etc., making grand

masses of color on the lower part of the walls; but to me he is

ignoble as a painter of human beings.

It was a charming life--our six weeks at Dresden. There were the

open-air concerts at the Grosser Garten and the Brühl'sche Terrace;

the Sommer Theater, where we saw our favorite comic actor Merbitz; the

walks into the open country, with the grand stretch of sky all round;

the Zouaves, with their wondrous make-ups as women; Räder, the

humorous comedian at the Sink'sche Bad Theater; our quiet afternoons

in our pleasant _salon_--all helping to make an agreeable fringe to

the quiet working time.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 28th July, 1858.]

Since I wrote to you last I have lived through a great deal of

exquisite pleasure. First an attack of illness during our last week at

Munich, which I reckon among my pleasures because I was nursed so

tenderly. Then a fortnight's unspeakable journey to Salzburg, Ischl,

Linz, Vienna, Prague, and finally Dresden, which is our last

resting-place before returning to Richmond, where we hope to be at the

beginning of September. Dresden is a proper climax; for all other art

seems only a preparation for feeling the superiority of the Madonna di

San Sisto the more. We go three days a week to the gallery, and every

day--after looking at other pictures--we go to take a parting draught

of delight at Titian's Zinsgroschen and the _Einzige_ Madonna. In

other respects I am particularly enjoying our residence here--we are

so quiet, having determined to know no one and give ourselves up to

work. We both feel a happy change in our health from leaving Munich,

though I am reconciled to our long stay there by the fact that Mr.

Lewes gained so much from his intercourse with the men of science

there, especially Bischoff, Siebold, and Harless. I remembered your

passion for autographs, and asked Liebig for his on your account. I

was not sure that you would care enough about the handwriting of

other luminaries; for there is such a thing as being European and yet

obscure--a fixed star visible only from observatories.

You will be interested to hear that I saw Strauss at Munich. He came

for a week's visit before we left. I had a quarter of an hour's chat

with him alone, and was very agreeably impressed by him. He looked

much more serene, and his face had a far sweeter expression, than when

I saw him in that dumb way at Cologne. He speaks with very choice

words, like a man strictly truthful in the use of language. Will you

undertake to tell Mrs. Call from me that he begged me to give his

kindest remembrances to her and to her father,[6] of whom he spoke

with much interest and regard as his earliest English friend? I dare

not begin to write about other things or people that I have seen in

these crowded weeks. They must wait till I have you by my side again,

which I hope will happen some day.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

From Dresden, one showery day at the end of August, we set off to

Leipzig, the first stage on our way home. Here we spent two nights; had

a glimpse of the old town with its fine market; dined at Brockhaus's;

saw the picture-gallery, carrying away a lasting delight in Calame's

great landscapes and De Dreux's dogs, which are far better worth seeing

than De la Roche's "Napoleon at Fontainebleau"--considered the glory of

the gallery; went with Victor Carus to his museum and saw an Amphioxus;

and finally spent the evening at an open-air concert in Carus's

company. Early in the morning we set off by railway, and travelled

night and day till we reached home on the 2d September.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 5th Sept. 1858.]

Will you not write to the author of "Thorndale" and express your

sympathy? He is a very diffident man, who would be susceptible to that

sort of fellowship; and one should give a gleam of happiness where it

is possible. I shall write you nothing worth reading for the next

three months, so here is an opportunity for you to satisfy a large

appetite for generous deeds. You can write to me a great many times

without getting anything worth having in return.

[Sidenote: Letter to Miss Sara Hennell, 6th Oct. 1858.]

Thanks for the verses on Buckle. I'm afraid I feel a malicious delight

in them, for he is a writer who inspires me with a personal dislike;

not to put too fine a point on it, he impresses me as an irreligious,

conceited man.

Long ago I had offered to write about Newman, but gave it up again.

The second volume of "Adam Bede" had been sent to Blackwood

on 7th September, the third had followed two months later,

and there are the following entries in the Journal in

November:

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Nov. 1._--I have begun Carlyle's "Life of Frederic the Great," and

have also been thinking much of my own life to come. This is a moment

of suspense, for I am awaiting Blackwood's opinion and proposals

concerning "Adam Bede."

_Nov. 4._--Received a letter from Blackwood containing warm praise of

my third volume, and offering £800 for the copyright of "Adam Bede"

for four years. I wrote to accept.

_Nov. 10._--Wilkie Collins and Mr. Pigott came to dine with us after a

walk by the river. I was pleased with Wilkie Collins--there is a

sturdy uprightness about him that makes all opinion and all occupation

respectable.

_Nov. 16._--Wrote the last word of "Adam Bede" and sent it to Mr.

Langford. _Jubilate._

[Sidenote: History of "Adam Bede."]

The germ of "Adam Bede" was an anecdote told me by my Methodist Aunt

Samuel (the wife of my father's younger brother)--an anecdote from her

own experience. We were sitting together one afternoon during her

visit to me at Griff, probably in 1839 or 1840, when it occurred to

her to tell me how she had visited a condemned criminal--a very

ignorant girl, who had murdered her child and refused to confess; how

she had stayed with her praying through the night, and how the poor

creature at last broke out into tears and confessed her crime. My aunt

afterwards went with her in the cart to the place of execution; and

she described to me the great respect with which this ministry of hers

was regarded by the official people about the jail. The story, told by

my aunt with great feeling, affected me deeply, and I never lost the

impression of that afternoon and our talk together; but I believe I

never mentioned it, through all the intervening years, till something

prompted me to tell it to George in December, 1856, when I had begun

to write the "Scenes of Clerical Life." He remarked that the scene in

the prison would make a fine element in a story; and I afterwards

began to think of blending this and some other recollections of my

aunt in one story, with some points in my father's early life and

character. The problem of construction that remained was to make the

unhappy girl one of the chief _dramatis personæ_, and connect her with

the hero. At first I thought of making the story one of the series of

"Scenes," but afterwards, when several motives had induced me close

these with "Janet's Repentance," I determined on making what we always

called in our conversation "My Aunt's Story" the subject of a long

novel, which I accordingly began to write on the 22d October, 1857.

The character of Dinah grew out of my recollections of my aunt, but

Dinah is not at all like my aunt, who was a very small, black-eyed

woman, and (as I was told, for I never heard her preach) very vehement

in her style of preaching. She had left off preaching when I knew her,

being probably sixty years old, and in delicate health; and she had

become, as my father told me, much more gentle and subdued than she

had been in the days of her active ministry and bodily strength, when

she could not rest without exhorting and remonstrating in season and

out of season. I was very fond of her, and enjoyed the few weeks of

her stay with me greatly. She was loving and kind to me, and I could

talk to her about my inward life, which was closely shut up from those

usually round me. I saw her only twice again, for much shorter

periods--once at her own home at Wirksworth, in Derbyshire, and once

at my father's last residence, Foleshill.

The character of Adam and one or two incidents connected with him were

suggested by my father's early life; but Adam is not my father any

more than Dinah is my aunt. Indeed, there is not a single portrait in

Adam Bede--only the suggestions of experience wrought up into new

combinations. When I began to write it, the only elements I had

determined on, besides the character of Dinah, were the character of

Adam, his relation to Arthur Donnithorne, and their mutual relations

to Hetty--_i.e._, to the girl who commits child-murder--the scene in

the prison being, of course, the climax towards which I worked.

Everything else grew out of the characters and their mutual

relations. Dinah's ultimate relation to Adam was suggested by George,

when I had read to him the first part of the first volume: he was so

delighted with the presentation of Dinah, and so convinced that the

reader's interest would centre in her, that he wanted her to be the

principal figure at the last. I accepted the idea at once, and from

the end of the third chapter worked with it constantly in view.

The first volume was written at Richmond, and given to Blackwood in

March. He expressed great admiration of its freshness and vividness,

but seemed to hesitate about putting it in the Magazine, which was the

form of publication he as well as myself had previously contemplated.

He still _wished_ to have it for the Magazine, but desired to know the

course of the story. At _present_ he saw nothing to prevent its

reception in "Maga," but he would like to see more. I am uncertain

whether his doubts rested solely on Hetty's relation to Arthur, or

whether they were also directed towards the treatment of Methodism by

the Church. I refused to tell my story beforehand, on the ground that

I would not have it judged apart from my _treatment_, which alone

determines the moral quality of art; and ultimately I proposed that

the notion of publication in "Maga" should be given up, and that the

novel should be published in three volumes at Christmas, if possible.

He assented.

I began the second volume in the second week of my stay at Munich,

about the middle of April. While we were at Munich George expressed

his fear that Adam's part was too passive throughout the drama, and

that it was important for him to be brought into more direct collision

with Arthur. This doubt haunted me, and out of it grew the scene in

the wood between Arthur and Adam; the fight came to me as a

_necessity_ one night at the Munich opera, when I was listening to

"William Tell." Work was slow and interrupted at Munich, and when we

left I had only written to the beginning of the dance on the Birthday

Feast; but at Dresden I wrote uninterruptedly and with great enjoyment

in the long, quiet mornings, and there I nearly finished the second

volume--all, I think, but the last chapter, which I wrote here in the

old room at Richmond in the first week of September, and then sent the

MS. off to Blackwood. The opening of the third volume--Hetty's

journey--was, I think, written more rapidly than the rest of the book,

and was left without the slightest alteration of the first draught.

Throughout the book I have altered little; and the only cases I think

in which George suggested more than a verbal alteration, when I read

the MS. aloud to him, were the first scene at the Farm, and the scene

in the wood between Arthur and Adam, both of which he recommended me

to "space out" a little, which I did.

When, on October 29, I had written to the end of the love-scene at the

Farm between Adam and Dinah, I sent the MS. to Blackwood, since the

remainder of the third volume could not affect the judgment passed on

what had gone before. He wrote back in warm admiration, and offered

me, on the part of the firm, £800 for four years' copyright. I

accepted the offer. The last words of the third volume were written

and despatched on their way to Edinburgh, November the 16th, and now

on the last day of the same month I have written this slight history

of my book. I love it very much, and am deeply thankful to have

written it, whatever the public may say to it--a result which is

still in darkness, for I have at present had only four sheets of the

proof. The book would have been published at Christmas, or rather

early in December, but that Bulwer's "What will he do with it?" was to

be published by Blackwood at that time, and it was thought that this

novel might interfere with mine.

The manuscript of "Adam Bede" bears the following

inscription: "To my dear husband, George Henry Lewes, I give

the MS. of a work which would never have been written but for

the happiness which his love has conferred on my life."

[Sidenote: Letter to John Blackwood, 25th Nov. 1858.]

I shall be much obliged if you will accept for me Tauchnitz's offer of

£30 for the English reprint of "Clerical Scenes." And will you also be

so good as to desire that Tauchnitz may register the book in Germany,

as I understand that is the only security against its being translated

without our knowledge; and I shudder at the idea of my books being

turned into hideous German by an incompetent translator.

I return the proofs by to-day's post. The dialect must be toned down

all through in correcting the proofs, for I found it impossible to

keep it subdued enough in writing. I am aware that the spelling which

represents a dialect perfectly well to those who know it by the ear,

is likely to be unintelligible to others. I hope the sheets will come

rapidly and regularly now, for I dislike lingering, hesitating

processes.

Your praise of my ending was very warming and cheering to me in the

foggy weather. I'm sure, if I have written well, your pleasant letters

have had something to do with it. Can anything be done in America for

"Adam Bede?" I suppose not--as my name is not known there.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Nov. 25._--We had a visit from Mr. Bray, who told us much that

interested us about Mr. Richard Congreve, and also his own affairs.

[Sidenote: Letter to Mrs. Bray, 26th Nov. 1858.]

I am very grateful to you for sending me a few authentic words from

your own self. They are unspeakably precious to me. I mean that quite

literally, for there is no putting into words any feeling that has

been of long growth within us. It is easy to say how we love _new_

friends, and what we think of them, but words can never trace out all

the fibres that knit us to the old. I have been thinking of you

incessantly in the waking hours, and feel a growing hunger to know

more precise details about you. I am of a too sordid and anxious

disposition, prone to dwell almost exclusively on fears instead of

hopes, and to lay in a larger stock of resignation than of any other

form of confidence. But I try to extract some comfort this morning

from my consciousness of this disposition, by thinking that nothing is

ever so bad as my imagination paints it. And then I know there are

incommunicable feelings within us capable of creating our best

happiness at the very time others can see nothing but our troubles.

And so I go on arguing with myself, and trying to live inside _you_

and looking at things in all the lights I can fancy you seeing them

in, for the sake of getting cheerful about you in spite of Coventry.

[Sidenote: Letter to Charles Bray, Christmas Day, 1858.]

The well-flavored mollusks came this morning. It was very kind of you;

and if you remember how fond I am of oysters, your good-nature will

have the more pleasure in furnishing my _gourmandise_ with the treat.

I have a childish delight in any little act of genuine friendliness

towards us--and yet not childish, for how little we thought of

people's goodness towards us when we were children. It takes a good

deal of experience to tell one the rarity of a thoroughly

disinterested kindness.

[Sidenote: Letter to John Blackwood, 28th Dec. 1858.]

I see with you entirely about the preface: indeed I had myself

anticipated the very effects you predict. The deprecatory tone is not

one I can ever take willingly, but I am conscious of a shrinking sort

of pride which is likely to warp my judgment in many personal

questions, and on that ground I distrusted my own opinion.

Mr. Lewes went to Vernon Hill yesterday for a few days' change of air,

but before he went he said, "Ask Mr. Blackwood what he thinks of

putting a mere advertisement at the beginning of the book to this

effect: As the story of 'Adam Bede' will lose much of its effect if

the development is foreseen, the author requests those critics who may

honor him with a notice to abstain from telling the story." I write my

note of interrogation accordingly "?"

Pray do not begin to read the second volume until it is all in print.

There is necessarily a lull of interest in it to prepare for the

crescendo. I am delighted that you like my Mrs. Poyser. I'm very sorry

to part with her and some of my other characters--there seems to be so

much more to be done with them. Mr. Lewes says she gets better and

better as the book goes on; and I was certainly conscious of writing

her dialogue with heightening gusto. Even in our imaginary worlds

there is the sorrow of parting.

I hope the Christmas weather is as bright in your beautiful Edinburgh

as it is here, and that you are enjoying all other Christmas pleasures

too without disturbance.

I have not yet made up my mind what my next story is to be, but I

must not lie fallow any longer when the new year is come.

[Sidenote: Journal, 1858.]

_Dec. 25 (Christmas Day)._--George and I spent this wet day very

happily alone together. We are reading Scott's life in the evenings

with much enjoyment. I am reading through Horace in this pause.

_Dec. 31._--The last day of the dear old year, which has been full of

expected and unexpected happiness. "Adam Bede" has been written, and

the second volume is in type. The first number of George's "Physiology

of Common Life"--a work in which he has had much happy occupation--is

published to-day; and both his position as a scientific writer and his

inward satisfaction in that part of his studies have been much

heightened during the past year. Our double life is more and more

blessed--more and more complete.

I think this chapter cannot more fitly conclude than with the

following extract from Mr. G. H. Lewes's Journal, with which

Mr. Charles Lewes has been good enough to furnish me:

_Jan. 28, 1859._--Walked along the Thames towards Kew to meet

Herbert Spencer, who was to spend the day with us, and we

chatted with him on matters personal and philosophical. I owe

him a debt of gratitude. My acquaintance with him was the

brightest ray in a very dreary, _wasted_ period of my life. I

have given up all ambition whatever, lived from hand to

mouth, and thought the evil of each day sufficient. The

stimulus of his intellect, especially during our long walks,

roused my energy once more and revived my dormant love of

science. His intense theorizing tendency was contagious, and

it was only the stimulus of a _theory_ which could then have

induced me to work. I owe Spencer another and a deeper debt.

It was through him that I learned to know Marian--to know her

was to love her--and since then my life has been a new birth.

To her I owe all my prosperity and all my happiness. God

bless her!

_SUMMARY._

JANUARY, 1858, TO DECEMBER, 1858.

_Times_ reviews "Scenes of Clerical Life"--Helps's

opinion--Subscription to the "Scenes"--Letter from Dickens,

18th Jan. 1858--Letter from Froude, 17th Jan.--Letter to

Miss Hennell--Mr. Wm. Smith, author of

"Thorndale"--Ruskin--Reading the "Eumenides" and

Wordsworth--Letter to John Blackwood on Dickens's

Letter--Letter from Mrs. Carlyle--Letter from

Faraday--"Clerical Scenes" moving--John Blackwood calls, and

George Eliot reveals herself--Takes MS. of first part of

"Adam Bede"--Letters to Charles Bray on reports of

authorship--Visit to Germany--Description of Nürnberg--The

Frauen-Kirche--Effect of the music--Albert Dürer's

house--Munich--Lodgings--Pinacothek--Rubens--Crucifixion--Theresien

Wiese--Schwanthaler's "Bavaria"--The Alps--Letter to Miss

Hennell--Contrast between Catholic and Protestant

worship--Glyptothek--Pictures--Statues--Cornelius

frescoes--Herr Oldenburg--Kaulbach--Bodenstedt--Professor

Wagner--Martius--Liebig--Geibel--Heyse--Carrière--Prince

Radziwill's "Faust"--Professor Löher--Baron

Schack--Genelli--Professor Bluntschli--Letter to Miss

Hennell--Description of Munich life--Kaulbach's pictures--The

Siebolds--The Neue Pinacothek--Pictures and porcelain

painting--Mme. Bodenstedt--Letter to Blackwood--Combinations

of artist in writing--Hears "William Tell"--Expedition to

Grosshesselohe--Progress with "Adam Bede"--Letter to Miss

Hennell on death of her mother--Mr. Lewes goes to

Hofwyl--Frau Knapp--Mr. Lewes returns--Leave Munich for

Traunstein--Salzburg--Ischl--Linz--By Danube to Vienna--St.

Stephen's--Belvedere pictures--Liechtenstein

collection--Hyrtl the anatomist--Prague--Jewish burial-ground

and the old synagogue--To Dresden--Latter half of second

volume of "Adam Bede" written--First impression of Sistine

Madonna--The Tribute money--Holbein's Madonna--The

Correggios--Dutch school--Murillo--Letter to Miss

Hennell--Description of life at Dresden--Health

improved--Mention of Strauss at Munich--Dresden to

Leipzig--Home to Richmond--Letter to Miss Hennell--Opinion of

Buckle--Blackwood offers £800 for "Adam Bede"--Wilkie Collins

and Mr. Pigott--History of "Adam Bede"--Letter to Charles

Bray--Disinterested kindness--Letter to Blackwood suggesting

preface to "Adam Bede"--Reading Scott's Life and

Horace--Review of year--Extract from G. H. Lewes's Journal.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] The Brays' new house.

[2] He is really a charming man, is he not?

[3] Picture of interior of a Lunatic Asylum.

[4] "Why do you tell such lies? The result of it will be that no one

will travel this way."

[5] Charitable Institution for Ladies.

[6] Dr. Brabant.

George Eliot's Life, as Related in Her Letters and Journals. Vol. 2 (of 3) · 第 1 / 6 章