The men’s dress of this period had all the variety of a time of
transition—cut-away and swallow-tail coats as well as riding coats and
surtouts were worn, differing mainly from the garments of to-day in the
height of the waist, and often extravagant height of the collar. The
waistcoats were high-waisted, of the gayest colours and most varied
materials, being ornamented with fantastic buttons. Pantaloons, either
buttoned just above the ankle, or tied with a riband, were in almost
universal use; these were supplemented out of doors by top-boots or
gaiters. The pantaloons were usually of cloth, though occasionally
knitted wool was worn. High stocks and frilled shirt-fronts were usual,
but would not have reached an eccentric pitch among Miss Austen’s quiet
country folks. Hats were high-crowned, with curved brims of varying
width, and were made of beaver, felt, or straw. Knee-breeches would
be worn by the old-fashioned folk, and by clergy-men. The colouring
being centred in the waistcoat, the rest of the costume, though perhaps
slightly gayer than that of the present day, would on the whole be
sober in hue.