Berlin.
The D—— of H—— having expressed an inclination to visit the court of
Mecklenburg Strelitz, I accompanied him thither soon after his return
from Magdeburg and Leipsic. The weather being sultry, his Grace thought
that travelling in the night would be most agreeable. We did not set out
therefore till about six or seven in the evening. The first post-house
is four German miles from Berlin; but as great part of the road is
through a large wood, and the night became very dark, the postillions
lost their way. In a short time we were perfectly bewildered, and
without the smallest notion which direction we should follow. After many
ineffectual attempts to find out the path, we thought it would be most
prudent to unyoke the horses, and allow them to graze around, while we
slept in the chaise till daybreak. This plan was literally followed: as
soon as the servants, by the light of the rising sun, had discovered the
path, we proceeded by Oranienburg and Seidneek to Reinsburg, which is a
magnificent castle belonging to Prince Henry of Prussia.
The gardens here are very extensive, and have been highly improved and
ornamented by this Prince, who has a good taste, and a magnificent turn
of mind.
When we arrived at the town of New Strelitz, we were informed that
the court was at Brandenburg. The Ducal residence was formerly at Old
Strelitz; but the palace there, with all the magnificent furniture and
effects, was burnt to ashes about fifty years ago. The fire having broke
out in the night-time, the family themselves had a very narrow escape.
A new palace has been since built at the distance of two English miles
from where the former stood, but in a much more agreeable situation,
being placed on a gentle eminence near a fine lake; and the town of New
Strelitz has gradually arisen in the neighbourhood.
After a short stay at Strelitz, we proceeded to New Brandenburg, which is
some leagues farther north, and within a small distance of the Baltic. We
arrived there in the morning of the third day after we had left Berlin.
When the Chamberlain of the Court was informed of the D—— of H——’s
arrival, we received an invitation to dinner, and a coach and equipage
were ordered to attend his Grace.
The reigning Duke of Mecklenburg Strelitz is unmarried, as well as the
Princess, his sister, who lives constantly with him. They are both of a
darker complexion than the Queen of Great Britain, and neither of them so
tall; nor have they much external resemblance of her Majesty, except in
the affability of their manner. The Duke is beloved by his subjects, on
account of the humanity and benevolence of his disposition, which seem to
be characteristic of the whole family.—After dinner there was a concert
of music, and card-playing till supper.
The whole country of Mecklenburg was for many centuries under the
government of one Prince. In the year 1592, on the death of the
Sovereign, it was divided between his two sons. The eldest retaining the
Duchy of Mecklenburg Schwerin, which is considerably the largest share;
the younger obtained the Duchy of Mecklenburg Strelitz. This last branch
became extinct in the year 1695, and Duke Frederic William, of the eldest
branch, laid claim to the inheritance of the Duchy of Strelitz. But he
was opposed by Adolphus Frederic, his father’s younger brother, and the
contest was settled by compromise between the parties in 1701. The right
of primogeniture, and the lineal succession, were then established in
both houses, and this final agreement was ratified by the Emperor.
The country here is not a sandy flat, as around Berlin; but the soil
becomes gradually better as you move from that city, and around New
Brandenburg it is remarkably fertile. Though the southern border of this
Duchy is flat, sandy and barren, yet all the northern part is of a rich
verdure, finely diversified with hills, meadows, woods, and several
beautiful lakes from four to ten miles in length. The country yields
plenty of corn, hemp, flax, excellent pasture for numerous flocks of
sheep, and a good breed of horses.—New Brandenburg is a neat and thriving
town, very agreeably situated. The inhabitants carry on a considerable
trade in hops, which grow in great abundance all around.
This country, which seems to be happy in its prince and other
particulars, cannot rank among its blessings the neighbourhood of so
great and warlike a monarch as the King of Prussia. In the course of
the late war, both the Mecklenburgs suffered very severely from this
circumstance. The Russians and Austrians, who pillaged the middle
Mark of Brandenburg, did not ascertain with nicety where the King of
Prussia’s dominions ended, and the Duke of Strelitz’s began; but as often
as there was any thing valuable to carry away, plundered both without
distinction. And when that Monarch himself was driven to extremity, and
obliged to use every means of recruiting his army, the Mecklenburghers
were cajoled and seduced by every art into the Prussian service; and
when these methods failed, they were, as it is said, taken by force.
Even at present, whenever the Prussian recruiting officers know of a
strong well-looking peasant belonging to the Duchy of Mecklenburg,
they use every means they can devise to seduce him into their master’s
service.—Complaints are frequently made of these practices to his
Prussian Majesty, and redress will be given when it shall please the Lord.
The second day after our arrival, we spent the forenoon in viewing every
thing worthy of notice in the town, and dined again at court, where there
was a more numerous company than had been the first day. After dinner we
accompanied his Highness and the Princess to an assembly in the town,
and returned to sup at the court. During supper there was a concert of
vocal and instrumental music.
Having received every mark of polite attention from this Prince, we took
leave of him and the Princess, and left the town early next morning, and
returned by Old Strelitz, which is not in such a flourishing condition,
or situated in so fine a country, as New Brandenburg. While British
subjects pass through this country, they will naturally reflect with
gratitude and veneration on the character of a Princess whose virtues are
an ornament to the British throne, and whose amiable manners and prudent
conduct have united the affections of a people divided by party, and
irreconcilable in sentiment on almost every other subject.
On our return to Berlin, I found a letter from Lord Marechal, informing
me, that the King was expected at Potsdam within a very few days;
that great preparations were making for the reception of the Princess
of Hesse and the Duchess of Wurtemberg, who were then both at Berlin,
and were to pay a visit to the King at Sans-Souci; that they would be
accompanied by the Princess Amelia, the King’s unmarried sister, and his
two sisters-in-law, for all of whom apartments were preparing at the
new palace, where his majesty also was to reside all the time that his
illustrious guests should remain. My Lord added, that the celebrated Le
Kain, and a company of French comedians, were already arrived, and also
a company of Italian actors and singers for the opera; and that both
companies were to perform at the theatre within the palace; that a great
concourse of company was expected at Potsdam on the occasion; that most
of the apartments in the town were already bespoke, and, as he imagined
we should incline to be there, he had engaged lodgings for us.
The Duke was extremely pleased with this obliging behaviour of Lord
Marechal. I afterwards spoke to Mr. Harris on this subject, and enquired
if he intended to be at Potsdam on the occasion? He told me, that as the
plays, operas, and other entertainments, were to be given in the palace,
nobody could attend them except those who had particular invitations;
that neither he nor any of the foreign ministers had been, or, as he
understood, were to be invited, nor did he hear that any strangers were
expected;—and that he imagined it would be unbecoming the D—— of H—— to
be at Potsdam at that time, except he could with propriety attend the
entertainments at Sans-Souci.
His Grace, on hearing this account, determined to remain here; but some
days after, I received a letter from Count Finkenstein, acquainting
me, that he had orders to invite the D—— of H—— and me to attend
the entertainments to be given at Sans-Souci. This afforded us great
satisfaction, not so much on account of the public entertainments, as
because it will give us opportunities, which we could not otherwise have,
of seeing the King of Prussia, and probably in an easier way than at
Berlin. As for the usual amusements and splendor of courts, his Grace
displays more coolness about them than one would naturally imagine,
considering the manner in which he is received, his time of life, and his
personal appearance.
——namque ipsa decoram
Cæsariem nato genitrix, lumenque juventæ
Purpureum, & lætos oculis afflarat honores.
Since our return from Mecklenburg, we have passed our time almost
constantly with Mr. Harris, who accompanied the Duke yesterday on his
last visit to Shoenhausen; for we shall probably not return to this place
from Potsdam. Mr. F—— set out a few days ago for Frankfort on the Maine;
his easy humour, and original turn of thought, make his absence felt with
pain by all who have tasted the pleasure of his conversation.
Adieu.