CHAPTER XIII

THE TRAIL OF THE INSURGENT

The Consuls and two newspaper correspondents cordoned at the storm

centre received comprehensive and accurate reports of what was

happening in the surrounding country through a secret emissary of

the revolutionary committee. This envoy extraordinary, pleading his

cause before the foreign representatives at a hostile capital, was

a man of nerve, resource, and careful judgment, as well he had to

be. Besides his other accomplishments, he had a knowledge of three

European languages, French, German, and Italian, and was therefore

able to translate the official insurgent reports from the original

Bulgarian into languages understood of the Consuls. The contents of

these periodical papers were a record of recent activities on the part

of both insurgents and Turks. Combats and massacres were located, and

where possible the numbers of killed and wounded were given. The final

report was a summary of the summer’s work. It announced the razing,

partial or entire, of 120 villages, and stated that 60,000 peasants

in the vilayet of Monastir were homeless. Illustrating the report was

a map which had been drafted by a skilled hand and manifolded by

machine; a key in the corner explained the meanings of the different

intensities of colour in which the villages were marked, from white,

indicating total escape, to black, total effacement.

The dissemination of such information during the ‘general rising’

defeated the designs of the lawful administration, and, of course, the

Turkish police were hard on the trail of the enemy in their midst.

Hitherto it had been the practice of the Governor-General (who, like

us, had left Uskub for more active fields) to inform foreign consuls

only of such serious disorders as he could not hope to keep from

them. Until now the number of casualties on the Turkish side in any

single combat had been limited to ‘three killed and two wounded,’ and

the Imperial Ottoman reports invariably defeated the ‘brigands.’ Now

the limit of losses had to be raised, because of consular scepticism

as to their accuracy, but still no record of defeat at the hands of

the insurgents was ever permitted. Insurgent bands seldom numbered

more than a hundred; nevertheless, his Excellency Hilmi Pasha would

occasionally announce a loss to them of several hundreds. Invariably

such a ‘destruction of brigands’ proved on unofficial information

to be a massacre of non-combatants. It annoyed the chief officer of

reforms exceedingly that foreign consuls and correspondents should give

credence to the reports of the insurgents in preference to those of his

office. His worry, however, was only on the score of effect in Europe;

the tacit implication as to his veracity disturbed his excellency

indeed very little.

A square-jawed Servian of some six-and-twenty years, dressed as a

European with the exception of the fez, entered the Hôtel Belgrade

for a cup of coffee--one act which never attracts suspicion. The café

of the distinguished hostelry was otherwise deserted except for the

Englishman and me. The stranger seated himself near us, looked us over

while he sipped his coffee, then addressed us cautiously.

‘You are English correspondents?’ he inquired in a low voice in German.

‘We are,’ said my comprehending companion.

‘I have a confidential communication to make. Will you take me to your

room?’

We went to the Englishman’s room, and the Servian explained his

mission; whereupon he opened the door and called in a boy, not over

fifteen, clad in a Greek gabardine, and carrying a basket of eggs.

This was our first meeting with the agent of the revolutionary

committee. Of course, the papers meant for us were among the eggs.

For many weeks thereafter the envoy extraordinary and his youthful

first secretary delivered the incriminating documents, but seldom twice

in the same manner.

One day we received a message asking us to meet the insurgent at a

certain house within the hour; the case was imperative. We made our way

to the place indicated, and there received the revolutionist’s report

with the map already mentioned. The man apologised for being unable

to bring his final paper to us, and continued, ‘I must not be seen in

the street to-day. They have my brother. They came to the house this

morning while I was out and took him. The boy found me, and warned me

not to return. For me it is fortunate that my work here is done.’

We never saw the Servian committaji again, and do not know that he

eluded his pursuers; perhaps they were too close on his trail.

Monastir was thronged with Turkish warriors, Albanians, Anatolians,

and European Turks, soldiers and bashi-bazouks, hale men and halt men;

a one-armed soldier and a hump-backed dwarf carried guns, Turk and

Turk alike. The vast barracks was overcrowded, tents stretched across

the parade ground, otherwise seldom utilised, and climbed high up the

mountain behind the caserne. The military hospital was surrounded

by tents. A certain subdued delight fills the breast of the gentle

Turk, and renders the combative Albanian loyal to the Padisha, when

the native _rajah_ gives cause for castigation. There is glory for

Mohamed in the despatch of an infidel, and material profit in the

plunder reaped.[6] Nearly a hundred thousand Albanian and Turkish

soldiers were crowded into the Monastir vilayet to ‘repress’ the ‘armed

insurrection,’ and such resident Mohamedans as were not called to the

colours sharpened their yataghans and joined unorganised in the work of

the army.

With this force on the warpath the town became quiet. Such Bulgarians

as had not gone to the mountains became Greeks or Servians, and for

a time the race disappeared from the streets. Greeks and Vlachs also

kept close to their houses, and some days only soldiers selling plunder

held the market place. The army commandeered the better pack-animals

and teams as they appeared on the streets, paying for them in paper

promises--in consequence whereof all fit animals were soon kept

stabled. Honest toil ceased, and only the labour of the struggle

continued. In the early morning, before the town stirred, detachments

of troops started for the mountains with many pack-ponies, each laden

with four ample tins of petroleum. At night, when Monastir was still

again, the pack-ponies came back--bringing in the wounded of the Turks.

The revolutionary committee had declared the ‘general rising’ of

the peasants with less than ten thousand rifles of all patterns,[7]

a meagre force with which to contest the Ottoman authority, and a

poor result for the price that had been paid in men and morals. The

insurgents had been gathering arms for several years. Many murders

had been committed in Macedonia in the forced collection of levied

assessments, and some had taken place in Bulgaria; many massacres of

innocent peasants had been brought about in the Turkish search for

arms; many insurgents had given their lives fetching the arms from

friendly and hostile frontiers.[8]

The high chiefs of the committee never expected to defeat the Turks

with their inadequate force of untrained peasants; their purpose was to

provoke the Sultan to set his soldiers upon the Christians. They were

willing to pay the lives of many thousands of their brother Macedonians

for the accomplishment of their desire--the country’s autonomy. They

were fanatics. The Turks called them Christian fanatics, but it was

not only the insurgents who were frenzied; probably 40,000 men, women,

and children, the entire population of many villages, went to the

mountains unarmed. This was the general rising. And all the Bulgarians

who remained in their villages, and many other Macedonians, gave their

whole sympathy to the cause of the committajis.

The revolution was declared in the vilayet of Monastir, among other

reasons, because of a specific design upon the Greek communities. You

have seen in a previous chapter how the Turks at repression recognised

no difference between Greeks and Bulgarians, massacring both alike,

even though the Greek clergy had some assurance that Bulgarians alone

would be ‘repressed.’ The insurgents understood the Turk better. They

laid deliberate plans to draw him down upon the communities of hostile

politics. By capturing lightly garrisoned towns whose inhabitants

adhered to the Greek Church, putting the Turkish soldiers to death,

they drew the Turks in force to the retaking of these places, whence

they (the insurgents) would cautiously withdraw, leaving the ‘Greeks’

to the vengeance of the Mohamedans. They argued that measure must

be met by measure; Greek priests converted by threatening Bulgarian

peasants with the Turk.

A storm of protest came from Athens, directed chiefly against one

Bakhtiar Pasha, simultaneously commander of the most bloodthirsty body

of soldiers and the most rapacious band of bashi-bazouks, who put to

the sword and the torch both exarchist and patriarchist community.

With the support of ambassadors of the Powers, the Greek Minister at

Constantinople demanded the immediate relief of this general from

his command ‘in the interest and honour of the Turkish army’; and

the Sultan, always tractable under pressure, promised to punish the

offending pasha. Forthwith the deviceful monarch despatched a special

messenger from Constantinople to Monastir, bearing congratulations and

the Order of the Mijidieh in diamonds for Bakhtiar the Brave.

But there came a day when Abdul Hamid kept a promise. Two ‘Greek’

towns, Nevaska and Klissura, were captured by insurgents and the

Turkish garrison put to death. Some time elapsed before the Turks

saw fit to retake the towns, and during the interval the Sultan was

persuaded not ‘to further alienate Greek sympathies.’

[Illustration: A TURKISH BAND LEAVING MONASTIR.]

[Illustration: BASHI-BAZOUKS.]

At the approach of a strong body of Turks the insurgents retired, and

the soldiers entered the town in military order, blades sheathed, and

leading no asses laden with petroleum.[9]

But massacre and the burning of villages continued, and refugees

entered Monastir in large numbers, some coming in alone, others

travelling in companies. Several hundred women and children who arrived

from Smelivo, one of Bakhtiar’s ‘victories,’ were driven back from

Monastir by troops, though without further reduction of their numbers.

The news of this came to the Consuls in a very few hours, and the

Austrian, who was most active, visited the Governor-General at once and

protested; whereupon the survivors of Smelivo were allowed to enter

Monastir.

One day a woman among the refugees went to Herr Kraal and asked him to

obtain the release of a son, whom she had thought dead, but had seen

alive in the custody of certain Turks. The Consul caused his dragoman

to ascertain where the boy was kept, and on learning the exact house,

he called on Hilmi Pasha and stated the case. His excellency was

horrified at such a charge against a Turk. For what purpose would a

Mohamedan steal a Christian child? The Consul gave the Governor-General

the location of the house, and threatened to send his dragoman and

kavasses to release the child unless the police were put to the job at

once. An Austrian dragoman accompanied the Turkish police; the boy was

found and restored to his mother.

There was a Greek in Monastir known as a professional redeemer

of stolen Christians. Through the instrumentality of the Greek

Vice-Consul, Jean Dragoumis, this curious character and I were brought

together. I ascertained from him that he had, in a period of twenty

years, participated in the rescue of seventeen of his compatriots. Most

of them were girls and women stolen by force or enticed from their

own homes by Mohamedans. The most recent instance of this fortunately

infrequent practice occurred, the native alleged, during our presence

in Monastir. Two small boys were brought into Monastir by a Turkish

soldier and ‘offered for sale on the market place’ along with other

plunder. A subscription was raised among some Greeks, according to

my informant, and the children were ‘purchased’ from the Turk for

four mijidiehs. ‘Since Herr Kraal has protested,’ said the rescuer of

Christians, ‘orders have been issued that no more stolen children

shall be brought into Monastir.’ Jean Dragoumis himself, a splendid

young Greek, interpreted for me on this occasion.

It is always difficult in Turkey to know just what is true and what

is false. Even the peasants will attempt, for one consideration

or another, to impose upon the stranger. Sometimes they invent

or embellish incidents simply for vain notoriety, and again with

deliberate intent to prejudice your sympathy. The refugees who came

into Monastir from the surrounding country told some terrible tales.

They told of dead lying unburied by the roadway, where they had been

shot for no other reason than their race--which was undoubtedly

true. They told in many instances of dogs gorging upon the unburied

dead--which is quite probable; the hungry, bread-fed dogs of Turkey

would devour any flesh. They told, in one case, of children having been

thrown alive into a burning lime-kiln--which is possible. They told of

women having been flayed alive--which I do not believe; it is not in

the Turk’s nature to inflict lingering torture.

My companion and I saw among the refugees in the Greek hospital a

woman whose shoulder had been almost severed from her body with a

single sword slash; another woman whose hand had been cut off with a

sabre--the arm, she said, had held her infant, which was hacked to

pieces at her feet. We saw a small boy who had been shot through the

head, and a small girl who had been stabbed in several places. These

were the most cruel of many cases in the hospital.

On one occasion we succeeded in entering the Turkish civil hospital,

where there were a number of wounded Bulgarians. In a women’s ward,

where bandaged heads and limbs were in plain evidence, the dutiful

doctor, a Greek, informed us that his patients were all suffering from

‘feminine complaints.’

‘But,’ we said, ‘some of them appear to be wounded.’

‘Oh, a few,’ replied the loyal servant of the Sultan, ‘must have

attempted to commit suicide. They were found with wounds.’

At the barred door of a prison ward, through which we could see

bandaged men, we were told, for variety, that this was the ‘accident’

ward. We inquired what comprised accidents.

‘Some fell out of trees, others amputated their own arms while cutting

wood.’ This deviceful M.D. was indeed worthy of the Sultan’s service.

Towards the close of the revolution a Turkish proclamation addressed to

the peasants in the mountains was placarded throughout the vilayet. It

read, in true Ottoman fashion, in part as follows:

[Illustration: TURKS ON THE MARCH.]

‘There is no need to mention how much his Imperial Majesty the Padisha,

our benefactor and enlightened master, desires the prosperity of

the country and the welfare of all his subjects without exception,

sacrificing sleep and quiet day and night, thinking how to perfect his

lofty purposes, and therefore commands the execution of certain

benefits. Everywhere courts are approved and established for the

preservation of the rights of the people; for the guarding of faithful

subjects and the execution of the laws bodies of police and gendarmes

are enlisted; for the saving of life and property guards are appointed;

for the spreading of education schools are opened; roads and bridges

are constructed for the people to carry food and merchandise; as also

are begun everywhere various other needed benefits, and for this end

part of the local income is apportioned.’

(‘I have the honour to transmit herewith a translation of the

proclamation to the Bulgarians,’ ran the official report of the British

Consul covering this document. ‘The list of reforms accomplished is

purely illusory!’)

‘But some evil-minded ones,’ continued the proclamation, ‘not wishing

the people to be benefited by these favours, and regarding only their

own selfish interest, deceive the inhabitants and commit various

repulsive transgressions. There is not the least ground for the

lies and assurances with which the Bulgarians are deceived. All the

civilised people of Europe and elsewhere regard with horror their

deeds, which destroy the peace of the land, and everywhere--with great

impatience--the suppression of these enemies to peace and order is

awaited. The Imperial Government observes with sorrow that many people

still rebel notwithstanding that until now, because of its great

mercy, it has proceeded with marked clemency toward the agitators.

But since the Government cannot coolly see the order of the country

destroyed and the peaceful population subjected to murders and other

evils, it categorically orders the commanders of the troops, wherever

they are sent, to disperse and kill _most severely_ the disturbers

and their followers who still remain in rebellion. Therefore, for the

last time, the Bulgarians who have been deceived and have left their

fireside and their trades are invited to return to their homes and

villages, and those who do not return and run towards the mercy of the

Imperial Government will be punished and _destroyed in the severest

fashion_.’[10]

The rebels did not run toward the mercy of the Imperial Government,

but many of them, because of their privations with the bands and the

approach of winter, began to return from the mountains to their homes

or the sites of them, seeking on all occasions to avoid the Turkish

troops. I heard an account of how in one instance a party of some

forty men and a hundred women and children received a message from a

detachment of the army promising them safety if they would return to

their village, and with this specific assurance they ventured back.

They were met on the way by the Turks, and the men were manacled and

marched away towards Florina, where, the Turks said, their names would

be recorded and they would then be set free. About half-way to town

they met a larger body of soldiers, commanded by a superior officer,

who demanded why Bulgarians had been made prisoners. No adequate reply

forthcoming, the ranking man gave orders that the peasants should be

put to death forthwith. The troops set upon the handcuffed men, slew

them, and decapitated their bodies. The headless bodies, so the story

goes, were thrown into the stream. What became of the heads none could

say.

(A photographer at Monastir has, in former years, taken many pictures

of Turkish soldiers and officers standing behind tables on which were

laid the battered heads of Bulgarians and other ‘brigands.’ But heads

are no longer brought into Monastir, and the photographer has been

forbidden to display all pictures of this nature. I was able, however,

to procure some.)

On a visit to Hilmi Pasha’s office soon after this incident I took

occasion to mention it to his excellency. He was completely ignorant of

the story, and asked me for details.

‘No, no, Monsieur Moore,’ he declared when I concluded; ‘none of the

Sultan’s men would do such a deed.’

‘But your excellency,’ I said, ‘I know that the Metropolitan of Florina

called on the kaimakam and requested him to have the bodies drawn out

of the water and buried. The main facts of the story cannot be denied.’

‘Where did you say the Bulgarians were from?’ asked the Governor.

I consulted my note-book and told him.

‘There is no such place.’

‘Perhaps I have not pronounced the name properly, but the act of

treachery remains,’ I contended.

‘Ah, yes,’ said Hilmi, ‘the town was ----;[11] I recollect now.

Monsieur Moore, Turks never lie. With your pronunciation and the

error in the figures you gave I did not recognise the affair. There

were sixty Bulgarians killed, not forty. But the deed was not one of

treachery; it happened two days before the Sultan granted pardon to the

rebels.’

The inspector-general volunteered some further information on other

affairs, notably that of Krushevo. At first the Turks contended that

the insurgents had burned and pillaged the Vlach town. Now Hilmi Pasha

informed me that bashi-bazouks had done the work. ‘The officers,’ he

said, ‘tried to keep them off the heels of the army, but they were

many, many, and while occupied fighting the insurgents the troops

could not prevent the bashi-bazouks from plundering. I have had thirty

bashi-bazouks arrested, and I have just received a report from one

of my officers stating that four thousand animals, which were driven

off by the bashi-bazouks, have been returned to the inhabitants of

Krushevo.’

This statement was both an important admission and an interesting

announcement, and I sent it at once to the _Times_, for which I was

now correspondent. But a few days later on visiting Krushevo I was

compelled to contradict his excellency’s information as to the

return of stolen cattle.

[Illustration: TURKISH TROOPS.]

In spite of the efforts of the authorities to suppress the news of

what was happening, and to gull the correspondents, we were able to

collect much valuable information, and through the Consular post to get

our despatches safely to the Servian frontier, whence they were wired

to London uncensored. When the Governor-General learned--_via_ London

and Constantinople--the nature of the reports the correspondents were

sending through, he was much disturbed, and sought to frighten us out

of the country. He sent a communication to Mr. McGregor informing him

that he had received a letter from the committajis announcing that they

intended to assassinate a British consul, a British correspondent,

or an American missionary. The Consul--I use his words--considered

this ‘a step taken by the authorities in order to cast suspicion

on the Bulgarians in the much more likely eventuality of a Turkish

outrage,’ and ‘consequently reminded Hilmi Pasha that, whatever the

nationality of anyone guilty of a crime against a British subject, the

responsibility of the Imperial Government will be the same.’

The Balkan Trail · 第 13 / 15 章