The traditional Hospitality of the Highlands. -- One more fond
Belief gone. -- Highland Bills. -- Donald's Two Trinities. --
Never trust Donald on Saturdays or Mondays. -- The Game he
prefers. -- A well-informed Man. -- Ask no Questions and you
will be told no Tales. -- How Donald showed prodigious Things to
a Cockney in the Highlands. -- There is no Man so dumb as he who
will not be heard.
Ever since the French first heard Boieldieu's opera, _La Dame Blanche_,
and were charmed with the chorus, "Chez les montagnards ecossais
l'hospitalite se donne," the Highlander has enjoyed a tremendous
reputation for hospitality on the other side of the Channel.
I am ready to acknowledge that the Scotch, as a nation, are most
hospitable; but do not talk to me of the hospitality of the Highlander.
The hospitality of the mountains, like that of the valleys, is extinct
in almost every place where modern civilisation has penetrated; the real
old-fashioned article is scarcely to be found except among the savages.
Donald has made the acquaintance of railways and mail coaches, he has
transformed his Highlands into a kind of little Switzerland; in fact,
the man is no longer recognisable.
The Highlander of the year of grace 1887 is a wideawake dog, who lies in
wait for the innocent tourist, and knows how to tot you up a bill worthy
of a Parisian boarding-house keeper at Exhibition time. Woe to you if
you fall into his clutches; before you come out of them you will be
plucked, veritably flayed.
The Highlander worships two trinities: the holy one on Sundays, and a
metallic one all the week. L. s. d. is the base of his language. Though
Gaelic should be the veriest Hebrew to you, you have but to learn the
meaning and pronunciation of the three magic words, and you will have no
difficulty in getting along in the Highlands.
Every Sabbath he goes in for a thorough spiritual cleaning; therefore
trust him not on Saturday or Monday--on Saturday, because he says to
himself, "Oh! one transgression more or less whilst I am at it, what
does it matter? it is Sunday to-morrow;" on Monday, because he is all
fresh washed, and ready to begin the week worthily.
He has a way of giving you your change which seems to say, "Is it the
full change you expect?" If you keep your hand held out, and appear to
examine what he gives you, his look says: "You are one of the wideawake
sort; we understand each other."
Needless to say that the Highlander is glad to see the tourist, as the
hunter is glad to see game.
Frenchmen, Germans, Russians, Englishmen, Americans, all are sure of a
welcome--he loves them all alike.
Still, perhaps of all the foreign tourists who visit his
hunting-grounds, it is the Americans who have found the royal road to
his heart.
"The Americans are a great people," said a Highland innkeeper to me one
day. "When you present an Englishman with his bill, he looks it over to
see that it is all right. He will often dispute and haggle. The American
is a gentleman; he would think it beneath him to descend to such
trifles. When you bring him his account, he will wave your hand away and
tell you he does not want your bill; he wants to know how much he owes
you, and that's the end of it."
His idea of a perfect gentleman is an innocent who pays his bills
without looking at them.
When he recognises a tourist as a compatriot, you may imagine what a wry
face he makes.
Just as the hotel-keeper of Interlaken or Chamounix relegates all his
Swiss customers to the fifth floor rooms, so Donald gives the cold
shoulder to all the Scotch who come his way. With them he is obliged to
submit his bills to the elementary rules of arithmetic, and be careful
that two and two make only four.
* * * * *
It is said that of all the inhabitants of the earth, the Paris _badaud_
is the most easy to amuse. I think, for my part, that his London
equivalent runs him very close. However this may be, the native of
London is an easy prey to the wily Scot.
They are fond of telling, in Scotland, how friend Donald one day showed
a Cockney really prodigious things in the Isle of Arran.
A Londoner, wishing to astonish his friends with the account of his
adventures in Scotland, resolved to make the ascent of the Goatfell
without the aid of a guide. Arrived at the foot of the mountain, he
informed the guides, who came to offer him their services, of his
intention. You may imagine if Donald, who had sniffed a good day's work,
meant to give up his bread and butter without a struggle.
"Your project is a mad one," our tourist is told. "You will miss many
splendid points of view, and you will run a thousand risks."
The ascension of the Goatfell is about as difficult as that of the
Monument; but our hero, who knew nothing about it, began to turn pale.
However, he appeared determined to keep to his resolution; and Donald,
who considers he is being robbed every time anyone climbs his hills
without a guide, begins to grumble.
Besides, when one is a Highlander, one does not give up a point so
easily as all that. Our Caledonian resorts to diplomacy. A brilliant
idea occurs to him.
"Since you will not have a guide," says he, pretending to withdraw,
"good luck to you on your journey! Mind you don't miss the mysterious
stone."
"What mysterious stone?" demands the Cockney.
"Oh, on the top of the Goatfell," replies Donald, "there is a stone that
might well be called _enchanted_. When you stand upon that stone, no
sound, no matter how close or how loud, can reach your ears."
"Really?" says the tourist, gaping.
"A thunderstorm might burst just above your head, and you would never
hear it," added Donald, who saw that his bait was beginning to take.
"Prodigious!" cried the Londoner. "How shall I know the stone? Do tell
me."
"Not easily," insinuated Donald slyly; "it is scarcely known except to
guides. However, I will try to describe its position to you."
Here the Scot entered into explanations which threw the Cockney's brain
into a complete muddle.
"I had better take you, after all, I think," said the bewildered
tourist. "Come along."
I need not tell you that they were soon at the wonderful stone.
The Londoner took up his position on it, and begged the guide to stand a
few steps off and to shout at the top of his voice.
Out Scot fell to making all sorts of contortions, placing his hands to
his mouth as if to carry the sound; but not a murmur reached the ears of
the tourist.
"Take a rest," he said to Donald; "you will make yourself hoarse.... It
is a fact that I have not heard a sound. It is prodigious! Now you go
and stand on the stone, and I will shout."
They changed places.
The Cockney began to rave with all his might.
Donald did not move a muscle.
The dear Londoner made the hills ring with the sound of his voice, but
his guide gazed at him as calmly as Nature that surrounded them.
"Don't you hear anything?" cried the poor tourist.
Donald was not so silly as to fall into the trap. He feigned not to
hear, and kept up his impassive expression.
The Cockney continued to howl.
"Shout louder," cried Donald; "I can hear nothing."
"It's wonderful; it is enough to take one's breath away. I never saw
anything so remarkable in my life!"
And putting his hand in his pocket, he drew out a golden coin, and
slipped it into Donald's hand.
This done, they left the marvel behind, and climbed to the summit of the
Goatfell, the clever guide carefully picking out all the roughest paths,
and doing his best to give his patient plenty of dangers for his money.
That night, after having made a note of all his day's adventures, the
proud tourist added, as a future caution to his friends:
"Be sure and take a guide for the Goatfell!"