In crossing from Arequipa in Peru to La Paz in Bolivia, the road
ascends the Andes, makes a slight descent into the barren, desolate
valley between the Andes and Cordilleras, crosses Lake Titicaca, and
then descends to La Paz. Lake Titicaca, the largest lake of South
America, is on a plateau between twelve and thirteen thousand feet in
height, the most elevated table land on the globe, excepting Thibet.
This lake is surrounded by lofty, snow-clad mountains, the highest of
which is Illampa, 22,300 feet in height.
On this lake are the remains of the most ancient civilization of South
America. Cyclopean ruins of temples and fortresses stand as perpetual
monuments of a vanished culture; when and by whom they were erected,
we know not; their builders left no other record of their existence.
The wandering Indians told the first Spaniards that they existed
before the sun shone in the heavens. From one of the rocky islands of
Lake Titicaca, about the year 1000 or 1100, the Sun, parent of mankind
and giver of every good gift, taking compassion on the degraded
condition of {9} the Indians, sent two of his children, Manco Capac
and Mama Oello Huaco, to gather the wandering tribes into communities,
to teach them the arts of civilized life and to inculcate the worship
of the Sun. From Lake Titicaca, this brother and sister, husband and
wife, went down the valley to Cuzco, where they were bidden to found
an empire. Manco Capac was thus the first Inca. There were ten or
twelve Incas before the conquest of Peru. Their conquests extended
through the entire valley of the Cordilleras, until over four hundred
tribes, with a population of many millions, became subject to their
dominion.
The territory of the Incas extended from the southern part of Chili
northward into Colombia, beyond Quito, a distance of two thousand
miles, and west to the Pacific Ocean. On the eastern slope of the
Cordilleras, toward the great plain of the Amazon, the Incas met a
stronger and more savage people, with whom they were in constant
warfare. In the several passes of the Cordilleras they constructed
fortifications to protect their borders and prevent invasion.
The capital of the territory, Cuzco, was situated in a beautiful
valley ten thousand feet above the sea. Amidst the Alps, such a valley
would be buried in eternal snow, but within the tropics it enjoys a
perpetual spring. Here the Incas loved to dwell, and remains of
immense fortresses, palaces and temples, testify to their power and
culture, and to the number of their subjects. Tens of thousands of
laborers must have been required to construct such edifices. When we
reflect that these people had no beasts of burden except the llama,
which could only carry light loads, and no mechanical means for
transporting the vast blocks of stone used in constructing these
buildings, we are astonished at what they accomplished. The pyramids
of Egypt are not more wonderful.
Great highways were built, running north, south and west, connecting
different parts of the Empire. One followed the valley between the
Cordilleras and Andes to Quito, another crossed the Andes and followed
the sea-coast north and south to the extreme limits of their country.
All traveling was on foot. Large and comfortable tambos, or inns, were
erected every few miles, and larger ones at the end of a day's
journey. Couriers were stationed at regular intervals, each of whom
had his allotted station, between which and the next it was his duty
to run at a certain pace bearing his message, and on his approach to
the {10} next station he signalled to the next chasquir, as the
couriers were called, to be ready to carry forward the message. In
this way, it is said, about 150 miles a day were made.
These couriers traveled more quickly than the mail-carriers of Europe,
and the means of communication were then, Squier tells us, far better
than they are to-day. Many of these old tambos are still maintained.
One in which Squier spent the night was 180 feet in length, with rooms
forming three sides of a court.
The country of the Incas had every variety of climate, and the
products were those of every part of the new world. On the coast,
perpetual summer reigns, with all the variety and beauty of tropical
vegetation. At a higher elevation, the trees are always green, and
while one kind sheds its blossoms and ripens its fruit another is
budding and unfolding its bloom. Meantime, on the top of the mountains
is eternal winter. In some places, as at Potosi, the changes of
temperature are frequent and extremes of heat and cold are experienced
in a single day. The weather in the early morning is frosty; in the
forenoon, mild and balmy; in the afternoon, scorching, and in the
evening, cool and delicious.
On the Pacific slope of the Andes, reservoirs were constructed, from
which irrigating canals watered the whole plain now lying desolate and
barren.
The conquered tribes were incorporated into the nation and became the
people of the Incas. If the conquered tribe was strong and warlike,
some of its members were removed to distant parts of the country and
were replaced by the inhabitants of those regions, to whom privileges
and immunities were given as compensation for the change of home. The
conquered tribes quickly realized the benefits of the rule of the
Incas and became faithful and loyal subjects.
The government of the Incas was a paternal despotism controlling the
most minute affairs of daily life. Knowledge, the Incas taught, "was
not intended for the people, but for those of generous ability, for it
would render persons of low degree vain and arrogant."
The Incas established a communal system similar to that of Russia.
One-third of the land belonged to the Inca, one-third to the priests
of the Sun, and the remainder to the people, who were required to
cultivate the land of the Inca and of the priests, as well as their
own. The land was divided among the families yearly, according to
their number. Every newly {11} married couple received a stated
portion which was increased as the family increased.
Their only means of writing was by a cord, called quippus, about two
feet long, composed of threads of different colors twisted together,
from which a quantity of smaller threads hung like a knotted fringe.
The colors denoted sensible objects or sometimes abstract ideas,
though the principal use of the quippus was for arithmetical purposes.
The civilization of the Incas appears to have been of a higher order
than that of the Mexicans. It is not probable that hieroglyphics were
in use among any of the South American Indians, though it is said that
traces of a pictorial alphabet have been found. The people were
contented and happy, although they were deprived of personal liberty,
although their daily life was supervised by their rulers, and although
they held only communal rights of property. They had neither ambition
nor strong love of country.
When Pizarro landed in Peru there were two Incas, one at Cuzco and the
other at Quito, and the bitter conflict which was raging between them
made the conquest of both easy. Pizarro had only 180 followers, but
they were Spanish cavaliers, carrying fire-arms; and with this small
force he overturned the Incas and enslaved the people. The descendants
of the Quichuas, or the people of the Incas, still inhabit the land--a
mild, apathetic, servile and dejected race. It is said that after the
conquest the women put on a black mantle, which they have worn ever
since, as perpetual mourning for the last of the Incas.
There are a few descendants of Spaniards in Peru, but the population
consists chiefly of the descendants of the Quichuas and mixed
Spaniards and Quichuas. The Peruvians of to-day are less civilized
than those who lived 400 years ago; they have less liberty and are
poorer.