CHAPTER III.

DYEING MACHINERY AND DYEING MANIPULATIONS.

Cotton is dyed in a variety of forms: raw, loose cotton, partly

manufactured fibre in the form of slubbing or sliver, spun fibres or

yarns wound in cop or bobbin forms, in hanks or skeins and in warps, and

lastly in the form of woven pieces. These different forms necessitate

the employment of different forms of machinery and different modes of

handling; it is evident to the least unobservant that it would be quite

impossible to subject slubbing or sliver to the same treatment as yarn

or cloth, otherwise the slubbing would be destroyed and rendered

valueless.

In the early days all dyeing was done by hand in the simplest possible

contrivances, but during the last quarter of a century there has been a

great development in the quantity of dyeing that has been done, and this

has really necessitated the application of machinery, for hand work

could not possibly cope with the amount of dyeing now done. Consequently

there has been devised during the past two decades a great variety of

machines for dyeing every description of textile fabrics, some have not

been found a practical success for a variety of reasons and have gone

out of use, others have been successful and are in use in dye-works.

HAND DYEING.

[Illustration: FIG. 6.--Rectangular Dye-tank.] [Illustration: FIG.

7.--Round Dye-tub.]

Dyeing by hand is carried on in the simplest possible appliances; much

depends upon whether the work can be done at the ordinary temperature

or at the boil. Figs. 6 and 7 show respectively a rectangular vat and a

round tub much in use in dye-houses. These are made of wood, but

copper dye-vats are also made. These may be used for all kinds of

material, loose fibre, yarns or cloth. In the case of loose fibre this

is stirred about either with poles or with rakes, care being taken to

turn every part over and over and open out the masses of fibre as much

as possible in order to avoid matting or clotting together. In the case

of yarns or skeins, these are hung on sticks resting on the edges of the

tub or vat. These sticks are best made of hickory, but ash or beech or

any hard wood that can be worked smooth and which does not swell much

when treated with water may be used. The usual method of working is to

hang the skein on the stick, spreading it out as much as possible, then

immerse the yarn in the liquor, lift it up and down two or three times

to fully wet out the yarn, then turn the yarn over on the stick and

repeat the dipping processes, then allow to steep in the dye-liquor.

This is done with the batch of yarn that is to be dyed at a time. When

all the yarn has been entered into the dye-bath, the first stickful is

lifted out, the yarn turned over and re-entered in the dye-liquor, this

operation is carried out with all the sticks of yarn until the cotton

has become dyed of the required depth. In the case of long rectangular

vats it is customary for two men, one on each side of the vat to turn

the yarns, each man taking charge of the yarn which is nearest to him.

The turning over one lot of yarn is technically called "one turn" and

the dyer often gives "three turns" or "four turns" as may be required.

Woven goods may be dyed in the tub or vat, the pieces being drawn in and

out by poles, but the results are not altogether satisfactory and it is

preferable to use machines for dyeing piece goods.

[Illustration: FIG. 8.--Section of Dye-vat.]

Plain tubs or vats, such as those shown in Figs. 6 and 7, are used for

dyeing, and otherwise treating goods in the cold, or at a lukewarm heat,

when the supply of hot water can be drawn from a separate boiler. When,

however, it is necessary to work at the boil, then the vat must be

fitted with a steam coil. This is best laid along the bottom in a

serpentine form. Above the pipe should be an open lattice-work bottom,

which, while it permits the free circulation of boiling water in the

vat, prevents the material being dyed from coming in contact with the

steam pipe. This is important if uniform shades are to be dyed, for any

excessive heating of any portion of the bath leads to stains being

produced on the material in that part of the bath. Fig. 8 shows a vat

fitted with a steam pipe. That portion of the steam pipe which passes

down at the end of the vat is in a small compartment boxed off from the

main body of the vat, so that no part of the material which is being

dyed can come in contact with it. A closed steam coil will, on the

whole, give the best results, as then no weakening of the dye-liquor can

take place through dilution by the condensation of the steam. Many

dye-vats are, however, fitted with perforated, or, as they are called,

open steam coils, in which case there is, perhaps, better circulation of

the liquor in the dye-vat, but as some of the steam must condense, there

is a little dilution of the dye-liquor in the vat.

DYEING MACHINES.

Dye tubs and vats, such as those described above, have been largely

superseded by machines in which the handling, or working of the

materials being dyed is effected by mechanical means. There have been a

large number of dyeing machines invented, some of these have not been

found to be very practical, and so they have gone out of use. Space will

not admit of a detailed account of every kind of machine, but only of

those which are in constant use in dye-works.

=Dyeing Loose, or Raw Cotton.=--Few machines have been designed for this

purpose, and about the only successful one is:

=Delahunty's Dyeing Machine.=--This is illustrated in Fig. 9. It

consists of a drum made of lattice work, which can revolve inside an

outer wooden casing. The interior of the revolving drum is fitted with

hooks or fingers, whose action is to keep the material open. One segment

of the drum is made to open, so that the loose cotton or wool to be dyed

can be inserted. By suitable gearing the drum can be revolved; and the

dye-liquor, which is in the lower half of the wooden casing, penetrates

through the lattice work of the drum, and dyes the material contained in

it. The construction of the machine is well shown in the drawing, while

the mode of working is obvious from it and the description just given.

The machine is very successful, and well adapted for dyeing loose, or

raw wool and cotton. The material may be scoured, bleached, dyed, or

otherwise treated in this machine.

The Obermaier machine, presently to be described, may also be used for

dyeing loose cotton or wool.

DYEING, SLUBBING, SLIVER OR CARDED COTTON AND WOOL.

[Illustration: FIG. 9.--Delahunty's Dyeing Machine.]

[Illustration: FIG. 10.--Obermaier Dyeing Machine.]

It is found in practice that the dyeing of loose wool or cotton is not

altogether satisfactory--the impurities they naturally contain interfere

with the purity of the shade they will take. Then again the dyes and

mordants used in dyeing them are found to have some action on the wire

of the carding engine through which they are passed; at any rate a card

does not last as long when working dyed cotton or wool as when used on

undyed cotton or wool fibres. Yet for the production of certain fancy

yarns for weaving some special classes of fabrics, it is desirable to

dye the cotton or wool before it is spun into thread. The best plan is

undoubtedly to dye the fibre after it has been carded and partly spun

into what is known as slubbing or sliver. All the impurities have been

removed, the cotton fibres are laid, straight, and so it becomes much

easier to dye. On the other hand, as it is necessary to keep the sliver

or slubbing straight and level, no working about in the dye-liquors can

be allowed to take place, and so such must be dyed in specially

constructed machines, and one of the best of these is the Obermaier

dyeing machine which is illustrated in Fig. 10. The Obermaier apparatus

consists of a dye vat A. In this is placed a cage consisting of an inner

perforated metal cylinder C, and an outer perforated metal cylinder D,

between these two is placed the material to be dyed. C is in contact

with the suction end of a centrifugal pump P, the delivery end of which

discharges into the dye-vat A. The working of the machine is as follows:

The slubbing or sliver is placed in the space between C and D rather

tightly so that it will not move about. Then the inner cage is placed in

the dye-vat as shown. The vat is filled with the dye-liquor which can be

heated up by a steam pipe. The pump is set in motion, the dye liquor is

drawn from A to C, and, in so doing, passes through the material packed

in B and dyes it. The circulation of the liquor is carried on as long as

experience shows to be necessary. The dye-liquor is run off, hot water

is run in to wash the dyed material, and the pump is kept running for

some time to ensure thorough rinsing; then the water is run off, and by

keeping the pump running and air going through a certain amount of

drying can be effected. This machine works very well, and, with a little

experience, constant results can be obtained. The slubbing or sliver may

be scoured, bleached, rinsed, dyed, washed, soaped, or otherwise treated

without removing it from the machine, which is a most decided advantage.

[Illustration: FIG. 11.--Holliday's Yarn-dyeing Machine.]

=Holliday's Yarn-dyeing Machine.=--In Fig. 11 is given an illustration

of a machine for dyeing yarn in the hank form made by Messrs. Read

Holliday & Sons, of Huddersfield. The illustration gives a very good

idea of the machine. It consists of a wooden dye-vat which can be

heated by steam pipes in the usual way. Extending over the vat are a

number of reels or bobbins; these are best made of wood or enamelled

iron; these reels are in connection with suitable gearing so that they

can be revolved. There is also an arrangement by means of which the

reels can be lifted bodily in and out of the dye-vat for the purpose of

taking on and off, "doffing," the hanks of yarn for the reels. A reel

will hold about two pounds of yarn. The working of the machine is

simple. The vat is filled with the requisite dye-liquor. The reels,

which are lifted out of the vat, are then charged with the yarn, which

has been previously wetted out. They are then set in revolution and

dropped into the dye-vat and kept there until it is seen that the yarn

has acquired the desired shade. The reels are lifted out and the hanks

removed, when the machine is ready for another lot of yarn.

There are several makes of hank-dyeing machines of this type, and as a

rule they work very well. The only source of trouble is a slight

tendency for the yarn on one reel if hung loosely of becoming entangled

with the yarn on one of the other reels. This is to some extent obviated

by hanging in the bottom of the hank a roller which acts as a weight and

keeps the yarn stretched and so prevents it flying about.

To some makes of these machines a hank wringer is attached.

[Illustration: FIG. 12.--Klauder-Weldon Dyeing Machine.]

=Klauder-Weldon Hank-dyeing Machine.=--This is illustrated in Fig. 12,

which shows the latest form. This machine consists of a half-cylindrical

dye-vat built of wood. On a central axis is built two discs or rod

carriers which can revolve in the dye-vat, the revolution being given by

suitable gearing, which is shown at the side of the machine. On the

outer edge of the discs are clips for carrying rods, on which one end of

the hanks of yarn is hung, while the other end is placed on a similar

rod carried near the axle. The revolution of the discs carries the yarn

through the dye-liquor contained in the lower semi-cylindrical part of

the machine previously alluded to. At a certain point, every revolution

of the discs, the rods carrying the yarns are turned a little; this

causes the yarn to move on the rods, and this motion helps to bring

about greater evenness of dyeing. The most modern form of this machine

is provided with an arrangement by means of which the whole batch of

yarn can be lifted out of the dye-liquor. Arrangements are made by which

from time to time fresh quantities of dye can be added if required to

bring up the dyed yarn to any desired shade. This machine works well and

gives good results. Beyond the necessary labour in charging and

discharging, and a little attention from time to time, as the operation

proceeds, to see if the dyeing is coming up to shade, the machine

requires little attention.

Many other forms of hank-dyeing machines have been devised: there is

Corron's, in which an ordinary rectangular dye-vat is used. Round this

is a framework which carries a lifting and falling arrangement that

travels to and fro along the vat. The hanks of yarn are hung on rods of

a special construction designed to open them out in a manner as nearly

approaching handwork as is possible. The machine works in this way: the

lifting arrangement is at one end of the vat, the hanks are hung on the

rods and placed in the vat. Then the lifter is set in motion and moves

along the vat; as it does so it lifts up each rod full of yarn, turns it

over, opening out the yarn in so doing, then it drops it again in the

vat. When it has travelled to the end of the vat it returns, picking up

the rods of yarn in so doing, and this motion is kept up until the

dyeing is completed. This machine is very ingenious.

A type of machine which has been made by several makers consists of an

ordinary rectangular dye-vat surrounded with a framework carrying a

number of sets of endless chains, the links of which carry fingers. The

hanks of yarn are hung on rods at one end of which is a tooth wheel that

when in position fits into a rack on the side of the vat. The action of

the machine is this: the hanks are hung on the rods and placed at the

entrance end of the vat, by the moving of the chains it is carried along

the vat and at the same time revolves, thus turning over the yarn which

hangs in the dye-liquor; when it reaches the opposite end of the vat,

the rod full of yarn is lifted out, carried upwards and then towards the

other end of the vat when it is again dropped into the dye-vat to go

through the same cycle of movements which is continued until the yarn is

properly dyed.

COP DYEING.

In weaving fancy-coloured fabrics the ordinary mode is to dye the yarn

in the hank form, then those which have to be used for the weft are

wound into the cop form for placing in the shuttles. The cop form is

that in which the yarn leaves the spinning frame, and necessarily apart

from the dyeing there is labour involved in reeling it into hanks and

winding it back again into the cop form, not only so but there is

necessarily some waste made in these operations. Many attempts have been

made, with more or less success, to dye the yarn while in the cop form

and so save the cost of the hanking and copping above referred to as

well as the waste which occurs. Cops cannot be satisfactorily dyed by

simple immersion in a boiling dye-bath, the outside becomes dyed but the

central portions as often as not remain quite white, and there is a

distinct grading of colour or shade throughout the cop, the outer

portions being deeply dyed while the middle portion will only have a

medium shade and the central portions either not being dyed at all or

only faintly tinted, much depending on the firmness with which the cop

has been wound. A soft, loosely wound cop is much more thoroughly dyed

than a hard, tightly wound cop. This uneven dyeing of the cops is not

satisfactory, and must be avoided if cop dyeing is to be a success. Many

dyers have turned their attention to this question of dyeing yarn in the

cop form, and many machines have been devised for the purpose; some of

these have not been a success, but a few have been found to yield

satisfactory results and proved in practice very successful.

In all machines for dyeing cops one principle has been adopted--that of

drawing or forcing the dye-liquor through the cop.

[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine.]

=Graemiger's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--This is shown in section in Figs. 13

and 14. Although simple in its work it is somewhat complex in its

construction and difficult to describe. The machine consists of a

dye-vat to hold the requisite dye-liquors. In the upper portions of this

is an iron casting formed with four chambers, the two lower ones of

which are immersed in the dye-liquor while the upper chambers are above

it. The sides of this casting are formed of metal plates which fit

tightly against the casting and form as nearly air-and water-tight

joints with it as it is possible to make. These metal plates are on a

spindle and can be rotated. They are perforated and made to carry

spindles, on which are placed the cops to be dyed. The two lower

chambers are in connection with a pump which draws the air from them and

so creates a vacuum inside the chambers. To fill this, liquor from the

dye-vat passes through the cops and into the chambers, and is in turn

drawn through the pump and returned to the dye-vat. In this way there is

a continual circulation of dye-liquors from the vat through the cops,

chambers and pump back to the vat again.

[Illustration: FIG. 14.--Graemiger Cop-dyeing Machine.]

The left upper chamber is practically a blank chamber. Those portions of

the cop carriers in contact with it are filled with cops, which are

placed on perforated spindles; the discs are given a quarter revolution

which brings the cops into the dye-liquor and in connection with the

left lower chamber and are dyed. At the same time the section of the cop

carriers now in contact with the left top chamber is filled with a new

lot of cops, another quarter of a revolution is given to the cop

carriers, which immerse the new lot of cops in the dye-liquor. The third

quarter of the cop plates is filled with cops. A third movement of the

cop plates now takes place; this brings the first lot of cops out of the

dye-liquor and in contact with the right upper chamber, where the

surplus liquor is drawn out of them and returned to the dye-vat. Another

revolution brings the cops back to their first position, they are now

removed and a new lot substituted. These proceedings go on

continuously. Although not quite free from defects the machine gives

very good results, the cops being very uniformly dyed through.

[Illustration: FIG. 15.--- Beaumont's Cop-dyeing Machine.]

=Beaumont's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--This is illustrated in Fig. 15. It

consists of a copper hemispherical dye-vessel, which is provided with a

tightly fitting lid, although this is not needed in all cases. The

bottom of the vessel is in communication with the suction end of a

centrifugal pump, while the delivery end of the pump is attached to the

upper end of the dye-vessel, the action of the pump being to secure a

constant circulation of dye-liquor from the bottom to the top of the

dye-vessel. Arrangements are provided by a peculiar and ingenious

contrivance fitted in one side of the dye-kettle for introducing steam

to heat the dye-liquor to any required degree. As in most forms of

cop-dyeing machines, the cops are placed on perforated metal spindles.

The cops and spindles are inserted in holes in a perforated metal plate,

and over them is placed a thin metal plate, technically called the

antifloater, whose object is to prevent the cops from becoming detached

from the plate. This plate, full of cops, is now placed in the

dye-vessel and rests upon a flange which is provided for that purpose.

When the cop plate is in position the dye-vessel is divided into two

chambers--a lower chamber and an upper one, in the latter being the

cops.

The pump draws liquor from the chamber under the cop plate and so

creates a vacuum, which during the working of the machines ranges from

10 to 20 inches in degree. To supply this vacuum, dye-liquor is drawn

from the upper chamber through the cops. The pump returns the liquor to

the dye-vessel. A very rapid circulation of dye-liquor takes place, from

25 to 50 gallons per minute passing through the cops and pump. From five

to ten minutes is sufficient to dye the cops. The machine is simple in

its construction and gives good results, the cops being completely dyed

through. One important consideration in cop dyeing is to be able to dye

successive batches of cops to exactly the same shade, and this is quite

possible with this machine.

=Young & Crippin's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--So far as simplicity of

construction is concerned this lies between the two preceding machines.

It consists of four parts with some accessory mechanism. There is first

a dye-liquor storage tank at the base of the apparatus in which the

liquor is kept stored and boiling (if necessary) ready for use, above

this and at the front end is the dye-chamber, this communicates at its

lower end by a pipe with the dye-liquor in the dye-vat. Then there is a

large vacuum chamber, in which by means of an injector a vacuum can be

formed, this directly communicates with a liquor-receiving chamber

which again in turn is in communication with the upper part of the

dye-chamber. The cops are placed on perforated spindles as usual, and

these on a perforated plate and are kept in place by a plate which is

screwed down on them. The charged cop plate is placed in the dye-chamber

on which a cover is placed and screwed down. By means of a lever the

injector is set at work, a vacuum created in the vacuum and receiving

chambers, the consequence being that dye-liquor is drawn from the vat

through the cops in the dye-chamber into the receiving chamber. When a

certain quantity of liquor has passed through, by a movement of a lever,

the vacuum is destroyed, and the dye-liquor runs back into the dye-vat;

these operations are repeated until from past experience of the working

of the machine it is thought sufficient has passed through to dye the

cops, when the dye-chamber is opened and the cops taken out. This

machine works very well.

=Mommer's Cop-dyeing Machine.=--This is in use in several continental

dye-works. The central portion of this machine is a rectangular

dye-chamber, which can be hermetically closed by hinged doors, the cops

are placed side by side on trays provided with perforated bottoms, the

trays being placed one on the top of the other in the dye-chamber. From

the top of the dye-chamber passes a pipe to a centrifugal pump, and a

similar pipe passes from the bottom of the chamber to the pump. A

separate vat contains the dye-liquor which is used. The pump forces the

dye-liquor through the cops which take up the dye. Arrangements are

provided by which the direction of the flow of the dye-liquor can be

changed. This machine gives fairly good results, not perhaps equal to

those with the machines previously described.

=Warp-dyeing Machines.=--Although many warps, especially for fancy

fabrics, are prepared from yarns dyed in the hank or cop form, yet it

is found advantageous when a warp is of one colour, a self-colour as it

is called, to form the warp from grey or white yarns and to dye it after

warping. If the warp were so wound as to be able to go into a Obermaier

dyeing machine, it would be possible to dye it in that machine, but

generally warps are dyed in the open form and are passed through a

dyeing vat, commonly called a warp-vat which is constructed as shown in

Fig. 16. These warp-dyeing machines generally consist of a long

rectangular wooden dye-vat, divided by two partitions into three

compartments, each provided with steam pipes to heat up its contents;

between the first and second and between the second and third

compartments is fitted a pair of squeezing rollers, while the third

compartment is fitted with a heavier pair of squeezing rollers. Motion

is given to these rollers by suitable gearing, and they serve to draw

the warp through the machine. Guide rollers are fitted in the

compartment, and the warp being taken round these, it passes several

times up and down and through the dye-liquors contained in the

compartments. These warp-dyeing machines may be made of sufficient width

to take one, two, three or more warps at one time as desired.

[Illustration: FIG. 16.--Warp-dyeing Machine.]

The three compartments of the machine may contain different liquids or

all the same liquid according as the nature of the shade to be dyed

demands. The passage is done slowly so as to give the warp time to

absorb the liquors and take up the dye. When all the length of warp has

been sent through, it is said to have been dyed "one end". Sometimes

this will be enough, but often it is not, and so the warp is sent

through again, given another end, and still again if the full shade has

not been attained.

After being dyed in this machine the warp is sent through another one

containing various wash liquors to finish the process.

[Illustration: FIG. 17.--Warp-dyeing Machine.]

Fig. 17 shows a warp-dyeing machine similar to, but a little more

elaborate in construction than, the vats just described.

=Piece-dyeing Machines.=--Wherever it is possible it is far more

preferable to dye textile fabrics in the form of woven pieces rather

than in the yarn from which they are woven. During the process of

weaving it is quite impossible to avoid the material getting dirty and

somewhat greasy, and the operations of scouring necessary to remove this

dirt and grease has an impairing action on the colour if dyed yarns

have been used in weaving it. This is avoided when the pieces are woven

first and dyed afterwards, and this can always be done when the cloths

are dyed in one colour only. Of course when the goods are fancy goods

containing several colours they have to be woven from dyed yarns.

[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Dye-jiggers.]

[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Dye-jigger.]

The most common form of machine in which pieces are dyed is The Jigger,

commonly called the jig. This is shown in Figs. 18 and 19. It consists

of a dye-vessel made sufficiently long to take the piece full

width--wide at the top and narrow at the bottom. At the top at each side

is placed a large winding roller on which the cloth is wound. At the

bottom of the jig is placed a guide roller round which passes the cloth.

In some makes of jigs (Fig. 19) there are two guide rollers at the

bottom and one at the top, as shown in the illustration, so that the

cloth passes several times through the dye-liquor. In working, the cloth

is first wound on one of the rollers, then threaded through the guide

rollers and attached to the other winding roller. When this is done

dye-liquor is run into the jig, the gearing set in motion, and the cloth

wound from the full on to the empty roller. With the object of keeping

the piece tight, a heavy press roller is arranged to bear on the cloth

on the full roller. When all the cloth has passed from one roller to the

other it is said to have been given "one end". The direction of motion

is now changed, and the cloth sent in the opposite direction through the

jig, and the piece has now received another "end". This alternation from

one roller to the other is continued as long as is deemed necessary,

much depending on the depth of colour which is being dyed--some pale

shades may only take two or three ends, deeper shades may take more.

When dyeing wool with acid colours which are all absorbed from the

dye-liquor, or the bath is exhausted, it is a good plan to run the

pieces several more ends so as to ensure thorough fixation of the dye on

the cloth.

It is not advisable in working these jigs to add the whole of the dye to

the liquor at the commencement, but only a part of it; then when one end

is given, another portion of the dye may be added; such portions being

always in the form of solution. Adding dyes in powder form inevitably

leads to the production of colour specks on the finished goods. The

reason for thus adding the dye-stuff in portions is that with some dyes

the affinity for the fibre is so great that if all were added at once it

would all be absorbed before the cloth had been given one end; and,

further, the cloth would be very deep at the front end, while it would

shade off to no colour at the other end. By adding the dye in portions

this difficulty is overcome and more level shades are obtained; it is

met with in all cases of jigger dyeing, but it is most common in dyeing

cotton or wool with basic dyes like magenta, auramine, methyl violet or

brilliant green, and in dyeing wool with acid dyes like acid green,

formyl violets, azo scarlet, or acid yellow.

Some attempts have been made to make jiggers automatic in their

reversing action, but they have not been successful; owing to the

greatly varying conditions of length of pieces, their thickness, etc.,

which have to be dyed, and it is next to impossible to make all

allowances for such varying conditions.

[Illustration: FIG. 20--Jig Wince.]

[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Cloth-dyeing Machine.]

=The Jig Wince or Wince Dye Beck.=--This dyeing machine is very largely

used, particularly in the dyeing of woollen cloths. It is made by many

makers, and varies somewhat in form accordingly. Figs. 20, 21 and 22,

show three forms by different makers. In any make the jig wince, or

wince dye beck, consists of a large rectangular, or, in some cases,

hemicylindrical dye-vat. Probably the best shape would be to have a vat

with one straight side at the front, and one curved side at the back. In

some a small guide roller is fitted at the bottom, under which the

pieces to be dyed pass. Steam pipes are provided for heating the

dye-liquors. The becks should be fitted with a false bottom made of

wood, perforated with holes, or of wooden lattice work, and below which

the steam pipes are placed; the object being to prevent the pieces from

coming in contact with the steam pipe, and so preventing the production

of stains. Above the dye-vat, and towards the back, is the wince, a

revolving skeleton wheel, which draws the pieces out of the dye-vat at

the front, and delivers them into it again at the back. The construction

of this wince is well shown in the drawings. The wince will take the

pieces full breadth, but often they are somewhat folded, and so several

pieces, four, five or six strings as they are called, can be dealt with

at one time. In this case a guide rail is provided in the front part of

the machine. In this rail are pegs which serve to keep the pieces of

cloth separate, and so prevent entanglements. The pieces are stitched

end to end so as to form an endless band. When running through the vat

they fall down in folds at the back part of the beck, and are drawn out

of the bottom and up in the front. Each part thus remains for some time

in the dye-liquor, during which it necessarily takes up the dye.

[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Dye Beck.]

In the jig and wince dyeing machines the pieces necessarily are for a

part of the time, longer in the case of the jigger than in that of the

wince, out of the dye-liquor and exposed to the air. In the case of

some dyes, indigo especially, this is not desirable, and yet it is

advisable to run the cloth open for some time in the liquor, so as to

get it thoroughly impregnated with the dye-liquor, or to become dyed.

This may be done on such a machine, as is shown in Fig. 24, page 79, but

having all the guide rollers below the liquor, so that at no time is the

piece out of the liquor, except, of course, when entering and leaving.

[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Holliday's Machine for Hawking Cloth.]

The so-called hawking machines have also this object in view, and Fig.

23 is an illustration of Holliday's hawking machine, made by Messrs.

Read Holliday & Sons, of Huddersfield. There is the dye-vat as usual; in

this is suspended the drawing mechanism, whose construction is well

shown in the drawing. This is a pair of rollers driven by suitable

gearing, between which the cloth passes, and by which it is drawn

through the machine. A small roller ensures the cloth properly leaving

the large rollers; then there is a lattice-work arrangement over which

the pieces are drawn. In actual work the whole of this arrangement is

below the surface of the dye-liquor in the vat. The piece to be dyed is

threaded through the machine, the ends stitched together. Then the

arrangement is lowered into the dye-vat and set into motion, whereby the

cloth is drawn continuously in the open form through the dye-liquor,

this being done as long as experience shows to be necessary. This

hawking machine will be found useful in dyeing indigo on cotton or wool,

or in dyeing cotton cloths with such dyes as Immedial blacks, Cross-dye

blacks, Amidazol blacks, Vidal blacks, where it is necessary to keep the

goods below the surface of the dye-liquor during the operation.

[Illustration: FIG. 24.--Continuous Dyeing Machine.]

Fig. 24 shows a form of cloth-dyeing machine much used in the cotton

trade. It consists of a number of compartments fitted with guide rollers

at top and bottom, and round which the cloth is threaded, so that it

passes up and down in the dye-liquor several times. Between each two

compartments is a pair of squeezing rollers to press out all surplus

liquors. All the compartments may be filled with the same dye-liquor, or

with different dye-liquors and developing liquors, as may be most

convenient and required for the work in hand. Such a machine is used in

dyeing logwood black, aniline black, and many of the direct colours,

etc.

From the direct colours a large number of light shades are dyed on to

cotton cloth by the process known as padding; this consists in passing

the cloth through a liquor containing the dye-stuff, usually a little

phosphate of soda is added, then between squeezing rollers, and finally

drying the cloth. For this process there is used what is called a

padding machine. This is shown in Figs. 25 and 26.

[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Padding Machine.]

[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Padding Machine.]

It consists essentially of a trough, which contains two or more guide

rollers, and in this is placed the padding liquor. Above the trough is

fitted squeezing rollers, sometimes two as in Fig. 25, or three as in

Fig. 26. Besides these, there are winding and beaming and other guide

rollers. Fig. 25 shows the simplest padding machine, where the cloth

passes once through the liquor and through the squeezing rollers. In

Fig. 26 the cloth passes several times through the liquor and twice

through the squeezing rollers, thus ensuring a more perfect impregnation

of the cloth with the dye-liquor, and therefore a more uniform dyeing of

the cloth.

The Dyeing of Cotton Fabrics: A Practical Handbook for the Dyer and Student · 第 3 / 11 章