IX. OUR SCHOOL IN THE PALACE.

The fact is remarkable, that though education in its higher degrees is

popularly neglected in Siam, there is scarcely a man or woman in the

empire who cannot read and write. Though a vain people, they are neither

bigoted nor shallow; and I think the day is not far off when the

enlightening influences applied to them, and accepted through their

willingness, not only to receive instruction from Europeans, but even to

adopt in a measure their customs and their habits of thought, will raise

them to the rank of a superior nation. The language of this people

advances but slowly in the direction of grammatical perfection. Like

many other Oriental tongues, it was at first purely monosyllabic; but as

the Pali or Sanskrit has been liberally engrafted on it, polysyllabic

words have been formed. Its pronouns and particles are peculiar, its

idioms few and simple, its metaphors very obvious. It is copious to

redundancy in terms expressive of royalty, rank, dignity--in fact, a

distinct phraseology is required in addressing personages of exalted

station; repetitions of word and phrase are affected, rather than

shunned. Sententious brevity and simplicity of expression belong to the

pure spirit of the language, and when employed impart to it much dignity

and beauty; but there is no standard of orthography, nor any grammar,

and but few rules of universal application. Every Siamese writer spells

to please himself, and the purism of one is the slang or gibberish of

another.

[Illustration: A PUPIL OF THE ROYAL SCHOOL.]

The Siamese write from left to right, the words running together in a

line unbroken by spaces, points, or capitals; so that, as in ancient

Sanskrit, an entire paragraph appears as one protracted word,

"That, like a wounded snake, drags its slow length along."

When not written with a reed on dark native paper, the characters are

engraved with a style (of brass or iron, one end sharp for writing, the

other flat for erasing) on palm-leaves prepared for the purpose.

In all parts of the empire the boys are taught by priests to read,

write, and cipher. Every monastery is provided with a library, more or

less standard. The more elegant books are composed of tablets of ivory,

or of palmyra leaves delicately prepared; the characters engraved on

these are gilt, the margins and edges adorned with heavy gilding or with

flowers in bright colors.

The literature of the Siamese deals principally with religious topics.

The "Kammarakya," or Buddhist Ritual,--a work for the priesthood only,

and therefore, like others of the Vinnâyâ, little known,--contains the

vital elements of the Buddhist Moral Code, and, _per se_, is perfect; on

this point all writers, whether partial or captious, are of one mind.

Spence Hardy, a Wesleyan missionary, speaking of that part of the work

entitled "Dhammâ-Padam," [Footnote: Properly _Dharmna_,--"Footsteps of

the Law."] which is freely taught in the schools attached to the

monasteries, admits that a compilation might be made from its precepts,

"which in the purity of its ethics could hardly be equalled from any

other heathen author."

M. Laboulaye, one of the most distinguished members of the French

Academy, remarks, in the _Débats_ of April 4, 1853, on a work known by

the title of "Dharmna Maitrî," or "Law of Charity":--

"It is difficult to comprehend how men, not aided by revelation, could

have soared so high and approached so near the truth. Beside the five

great commandments,--not to kill, not to steal, not to commit adultery,

not to lie, not to get drunk,--every shade of vice, hypocrisy, anger,

pride, suspicion, greed, gossip, cruelty to animals, is guarded against

by special precepts. Among the virtues commended we find, not only

reverence for parents, care for children, submission to authority,

gratitude, moderation in time of prosperity, resignation and fortitude

in time of trial, equanimity at all times, but virtues unknown to any

heathen system of morality, such as the duty of forgiving insults, and

of rewarding evil with good."

All virtues, we are told, spring from _maitrî_, and this _maitrî_ can

only be rendered by charity and love.

"I do not hesitate," says Burnouf, in his _Lotus de la Bonne Loi_, "to

translate by 'charity' the word _maitrî_, which expresses, not merely

friendship, or the feeling of particular affection which a man has for

one or more of his fellow-creatures, but that universal feeling which

inspires us with good-will toward all men and a constant willingness to

help them."

I may here add the testimony of Barthélemy Saint-Hilaire: "I do not

hesitate to add," he writes, "that, save the Christ alone, there is not

among the founders of religion a figure more pure, more touching, than

that of Buddha. His life is without blemish; his constant heroism equals

his conviction; and if the theory he extols is false, the personal

examples he affords are irreproachable. He is the accomplished model of

all the virtues he preaches; his abnegation, his charity, his

unalterable sweetness, never belie themselves. At the age of twenty-nine

he retires from the court of the king, his father, to become a devotee

and a beggar. He silently prepares his doctrine by six years of

seclusion and meditation. He propagates it, by the unaided power of

speech and persuasion, for more than half a century; and when he dies in

the arms of his disciples, it is with the serenity of a sage who has

practised goodness all his life, and knows that he has found Truth."

Another work, as sacred and more mystic, is the "Parajikâ," read in the

temples with closed doors by the chief priests exclusively, and only to

such devotees as have entered the monastic schools for life.

Then there are the "P'ra-jana Para-mita," (the "Accomplishment of

Reason," or "Transcendental Wisdom,)" and other works in abstruse

philosophy. The "Lalita Vistara" contains the life of Buddha, and is

esteemed the highest authority as to the more remarkable events in the

career of the great reformer. The "Saddharma-pundikara" (or _pundariki_

in Ceylon), "The White Lotos of the True Religion," presents the

incidents of Buddha's life in the form of legend and fable.

The "Ganda-Veyuha," but little known, consists of remarkable and very

beautiful forms of prayer and thanksgiving, with psalms of praise

addressed to the Perfection of the Infinite and to the Invisible, by

Sakya Muni, the Buddha. The "Nirwana" treats of the end of material

existence, and is universally read, and highly esteemed by Buddhists as

a treatise of rare merit.

But the most important parts of the theological study of the Siamese

priesthood are found in a work revered under the titles of "Tautras" and

"Kala-Chakara,"--that is, "Circles of Time, Matter, Space"; probably a

translation of the Sanskrit symbolic word, _Om_, "Circle." There are

twenty-two volumes, treating exclusively of mystics and mystical

worship.

The libraries of the monasteries are rich in works on the theory and

practice of medicine; but very poor in historical books, the few

preserved dealing mainly with the lives and actions of Siamese rulers,

oddly associated with the genii and heroes of the Hindoo mythology. Like

the early historians of Greece and Rome, the writers are careful to

furnish a particular account of all signs, omens, and predictions

relating to the several events recorded. They possess also a few

translated works in Chinese history.

The late king was an authority on all questions of religion, law, and

custom, and was familiar with the writings of Pythagoras and Aristotle.

The Siamese have an extravagant fondness for the drama, and for poetry

of every kind. In all the lyric form predominates, and their

compositions are commonly adapted for instrumental accompaniment. Their

dramatic entertainments are mainly musical, combining rudely the opera

with the ballet,--monotonous singing, and listless, mechanical dancing.

Dialogue is occasionally introduced, the favorite subjects being

passages from the Hindoo Avatars, the epic "Ramayana," and the

"Mahabharata"; or from legends, peculiar to Siam, of gods, heroes, and

demons. Throughout their literature, mythology is the all-pervading

element; history, science, arts, customs, conversation, opinion,

doctrine, are alike colored and flavored with it.

With so brief and meagre a sketch of the literature of Siam, I would

fain prepare the reader to appreciate the peculiarities of an English

classical school in the Royal Palace at Bangkok. In Siam, all schools,

literary societies, monasteries, even factories, all intellectual and

progressive enterprises of whatever nature and intention, are opened and

begun on Thursday, "One P'ra Hatt"; because that day is sacred to the

goddess of Mind or Wisdom, probably the Hindoo Saraswati. On the

Thursday appointed for the opening of my classes in the palace, one of

the king's barges conveyed us across the Meinam. At the landing I was

met by slave-girls, who conducted me to the palace through the gate

called Patoo Sap, "Gate of Knowledge." Here I was received by some

Amazons, who in turn gave notice to other slave-girls waiting to escort

us to a pavilion--or, more correctly, temple--dedicated to the wives and

daughters of Siam. [Footnote: _Watt Khoon Choom Manda Thai_,--"Temple of

the Mothers of the Free."] The profound solitude of this refuge,

embowered in its twilight grove of orange and palm trees, was strangely

tranquillizing. The religion of the place seemed to overcome us, as we

waited among the tall, gilded pillars of the temple. On one side was an

altar, enriched with some of the most curious and precious offerings of

art to be found in the East. There was a gilded rostrum also, from which

the priests daily officiated; and near by, on the summit of a curiously

carved trunk of an old Bho tree, [Footnote: The sacred tree under which

Guadama discoursed with his disciples.] the goddess of Mind presided.

The floor of this beautiful temple was a somewhat gaudy mosaic of

variegated marble and precious stones; but the gilded pillars, the

friezes that surmounted them, and the vaulted roof of gilded arabesques,

seemed to tone down the whole to their own chaste harmony of design.

In the centre of the temple stood a long table, finely carved, and some

gilt chairs. The king and most of the nobler ladies of the court were

present, with a few of the chief priests, among whom I recognized, for

the first time, his Lordship Chow Khoon Sâh.

His Majesty received me and my little boy most kindly. After an interval

of silence he clapped his hands lightly, and instantly the lower hall

was filled with female slaves. A word or two, dropped from his lips,

bowed every head and dispersed the attendants. But they presently

returned laden, some with boxes containing books, slates, pens, pencils,

and ink; others with lighted tapers and vases filled with the white

lotos, which they set down before the gilded chairs.

At a signal from the king, the priests chanted a hymn from the

"P'ra-jana Para-mita"; [Footnote: "Accomplishment of Reason," or

"Transcendental Wisdom."] and then a burst of music announced the

entrance of the princes and princesses, my future pupils. They advanced

in the order of their ages. The Princess Ying You Wahlacks ("First-born

among Women"), having precedence, approached and prostrated herself

before her royal father, the others following her example. I admired the

beauty of her skin, the delicacy of her form, and the subdued lustre of

her dreamy eyes. The king took her gently by the hand, and presented me

to her, saying simply, "The English teacher." Her greeting was quiet and

self-possessed. Taking both my hands, she bowed, and touched them with

her forehead; then, at a word from the king, retired to her place on the

right. One by one, in like manner, all the royal children were presented

and saluted me; and the music ceased.

His Majesty then spoke briefly, to this effect: "Dear children, as this

is to be an English school, you will have to learn and observe the

English modes of salutation, address, conversation, and etiquette; and

each and every one of you shall be at liberty to sit in my presence,

unless it be your own pleasure not to do so." The children all bowed,

and touched their foreheads with their folded palms, in acquiescence.

Then his Majesty departed with the priests; and the moment he was fairly

out of sight, the ladies of the court began, with much noise and

confusion, to ask questions, turn over the leaves of books, and chatter

and giggle together. Of course, no teaching was possible in such a din;

my young princes and princesses disappeared in the arms of their nurses

and slaves, and I retired to my apartments in the prime minister's

palace. But the serious business of my school began on the following

Thursday.

On that day a crowd of half-naked children followed me and my Louis to

the palace gates, where our guide gave us in charge to a consequential

female slave, at whose request the ponderous portal was opened barely

wide enough to admit one person at a time. On entering we were jealously

scrutinized by the Amazonian guard, and a "high private" questioned the

propriety of admitting my boy; whereat a general tittering, and we

passed on. We advanced through the noiseless oval door, and entered the

dim, cool pavilion, in the centre of which the tables were arranged for

school. Away flew several venerable dames who had awaited our arrival,

and in about an hour returned, bringing with them twenty-one scions of

Siamese royalty, to be initiated into the mysteries of reading, writing,

and arithmetic, after the European, and especially the English manner.

It was not long before my scholars were ranged in chairs around the long

table, with Webster's far-famed spelling-books before them, repeating

audibly after me the letters of the alphabet. While I stood at one end

of the table, my little Louis at the other, mounted on a chair, the

better to command his division, mimicked me with a fidelity of tone and

manner very quaint and charming. Patiently his small finger pointed out

to his class the characters so strange to them, and not yet perfectly

familiar to himself.

About noon, a number of young women were brought to me, to be taught

like the rest. I received them sympathetically, at the same time making

a memorandum of their names in a book of my own. This created a general

and lively alarm, which it was not in my power immediately to allay, my

knowledge of their language being confined to a few simple sentences;

but when at last their courage and confidence were restored, they began

to take observations and an inventory of me that were by no means

agreeable. They fingered my hair and dress, my collar, belt, and rings.

One donned my hat and cloak, and made a promenade of the pavilion;

another pounced upon my gloves and veil, and disguised herself in them,

to the great delight of the little ones, who laughed boisterously. A

grim duenna, who had heard the noise, bustled wrathfully into the

pavilion. Instantly hat, cloak, veil, gloves, were flung right and left,

and the young women dropped on the floor, repeating shrilly, like truant

urchins caught in the act, their "ba, be, bi, bo."

One who seemed the infant phenomenon of the royal harem, so juvenile and

artless were her looks and ways, despising a performance so rudimentary

as the a, b, c, demanded to be steered at once into the mid-ocean of the

book; but when I left her without pilot in an archipelago of hard words,

she soon showed signals of distress.

At the far end of the table, bending over a little prince, her eyes

riveted on the letters my boy was naming to her, stood a pale young

woman, whose aspect was dejected and forlorn. She had entered

unannounced and unnoticed, as one who had no interest in common with the

others; and now she stood apart and alone, intent only on mastering the

alphabet with the help of her small teacher. When we were about to

dismiss the school, she repeated her lesson to my wise lad, who listened

with imposing gravity, pronounced her a "very good child," and said she

might go now. But when she perceived that I observed her curiously, she

crouched almost under the table, as though owning she had no right to be

there, and was worthy to pick only the crumbs of knowledge that might

fall from it. She was neither very young nor pretty, save that her dark

eyes were profound and expressive, and now the more interesting by their

touching sadness. Esteeming it the part of prudence as well as of

kindness to appear unconscious of her presence, and so encourage her to

come again, I left the palace without accosting her, before his Majesty

had awakened from his forenoon nap. This crushed creature had fallen

under the displeasure of the king, and the after chapters of her story,

which shall be related in their proper connection, were romantic and

mournful.

The English Governess at the Siamese Court Being Recollections of Six Years in the Royal Palace at Bangkok · 第 21 / 54 题