A MOURNING DIRGE

This is chanted by an individual, or a succession of individuals, and

is not the usual wail in which all join, though it is much like it.

African music is not always based upon harmony; nor does harmony

always improve it.

]

VI

PESTS

It is part of the squalid commonplace of life in Africa that the most

exciting adventures are not with elephants but with ants, and our worst

danger is not the leopard but the mosquito. And this struggle against

minute enemies requires more patience than the fight with beasts, both

because it is not occasional, but an unremitting warfare, and because it

does not appeal to our love of the heroic, nor stimulate with the

promise of praise. When Paul tells us that he fought with beasts at

Ephesus, our hearts swell with admiration; but if he had said: “I have

fought with the mosquitoes in Africa,” he would have elicited no

sympathy and some ridicule; although the latter is also a fight for

life, and attended by greater danger and weariness and pain.

It is significant that it was in Africa that Moses summoned the ten

plagues to his aid in humbling the haughty Pharaoh. If ten had not been

sufficient he might have summoned ten times ten, and without exhausting

the domestic resources.

We are grateful that common houseflies are not sufficiently numerous to

constitute a pest, except where cattle are bred in large numbers. In

Gaboon there was no need for screens on doors and windows.

But there are many kinds of flies, and the natives who have not learned

to wear clothing commonly carry a fly-brush made of a bunch of stiff

grass about two feet long, that they may defend the whole area of the

back, where the fly usually makes its attack. When one sees a fly on a

neighbour’s back it is regarded as a duty of friendship to come up

behind that neighbour slowly and stealthily, giving the fly full time to

bite his worst and so be deserving of death, then to strike an awful

blow on the neighbour’s back, fit to bring him to his feet with a yell.

It seldom harms the fly, but it expresses great indignation, and, by

implication, sympathy with your neighbour. The habit of killing flies,

or attempting to kill them when they alight, is an obsession with the

native, and it seems a physical impossibility for him to resist. He does

it in church. When I first preached in Batanga, to a large congregation,

I was very much disturbed by this unlooked-for and constant slapping on

bare backs. And whenever I saw a man creep quietly across the aisle or

forward several seats to perform this friendly office, I could not help

watching until I heard the slap, when I always felt like stopping the

discourse long enough to ask: “Did you kill it?” For in the mind of all

those around there seemed to be nothing else going on in that church but

this exhibition of applied Christianity.

Forgetting that the white man is protected by his clothing, they vie

with each other in the discharge of this courtesy; and the exasperating

blows that the white man receives from his black friends are the chief

discomfort that he suffers from the larger flies. One day shortly before

leaving Africa I was riding in an open boat when a native man sitting

behind me suddenly gave me a slap on the back that actually hurt, and so

startled me that I did some fool thing a little short of leaping into

the sea. I turned around and asked the man in a tone of cold politeness

whether he was trying to make my back the same colour as his.

“Why, no,” said he, “I am killing flies.”

“I’m no fly,” I replied frigidly.

A few minutes later, when I was indulging in a somnolent reverie, he

struck me again—I think it must have been in the same place, it hurt so

much worse than the first time; whereupon I turned about and, striking a

very dangerous attitude (for a missionary), I threatened that if he did

it again I would land him a blow in the stomach whether there was a fly

there or not. My boat-boys, who knew the uses of clothing and

appreciated the immunity of my back from fly-bites as well as the

greater tenderness and sensitiveness of the white man’s body, laughed at

this interesting diversion. Then they undertook to enlighten their

friend from the bush as to the white man’s view-point, combining

theoretical instruction with practical sense by removing him to another

seat: for they well knew that if he should see another fly on my back,

even while they were talking, he would strike again. He cannot help it:

the habit is coercive.

Among the worst pests, and peculiar to Africa, is the driver ant. They

go together in countless and incomprehensible numbers. The first sight

that one gets of them is a glistening black, rapid-running stream about

two inches wide crossing the path before him. Upon closer inspection he

finds that the stream is composed of ants; and recognizing the driver

ant of which he has heard many incredible stories on the way to Africa,

he feels like shouting “Fire!” and running for his life. But as a matter

of fact he may with impunity examine them as closely as he pleases so

long as he does not touch them. They are so occupied with their own

serious purpose that they will take no notice of him.

In the middle of the black stream are the females, about the size of our

common, black wood-ant, while along the sides run the soldiers guarding

from attack, and these are about four times the size of the others. The

defense of the females is no matter of necessity, but rather gallantry,

for those female viragoes are abundantly able to defend themselves. No

creature so small ever had such a bite. They are all provided with jaws

and with stings and they know how to work both vigorously. Some fine day

as the newcomer saunters along, his eyes engaged with the beauty of the

landscape, he walks into the ants. It may be one minute, perhaps two,

and possibly five, before he knows anything of the serious mistake he

has made. Then suddenly he experiences a sensation which is usually

compared to numerous red-hot pincers applied implacably; for these ants

do not let go. If he follows the course prescribed by ardent advisers,

he will do either of two things: he will instantly strip off his

clothing, even if he should be in the governor’s courtyard, yelling the

while at the top of his voice so that those who object may go some other

way; or he will make a dash for the nearest rain-barrel and tumble into

it. Fortunately, their bite is not poisonous and leaves no bad effects

afterwards. After this experience he will never allow more than one eye

to dwell upon the charm of the landscape; the other will be directed to

the path before him. If a man must go out at night he always carries a

lantern.

When these ants come to a place where there is food to their liking,

they scatter and spread out over a large area. Then, of course, they are

not so quickly discovered, and one may easily walk into them. They are

one of the trials of bush-travel, and the worst living nuisance of the

bush, where the undergrowth hides them even from the keen eye of the

native. There is seldom a day on a bush journey that the caravan does

not march into the drivers. Then there is some wild yelling by those in

the lead; the cry, “Drivers!” goes all along the line and each man as he

comes to them makes a lively dash through them, stamping heavily as he

runs; for it is possible thus to keep them off or to shake them off

before they get a hold. All other insects and animals flee before them,

including the python and the leopard.

Travellers have frequently told how that the silent, sleeping forest has

suddenly become all astir and vocal, the angry boom of the gorilla or

the frightened bleat of the gazelle alternating with a cry of the

leopard and the scream of the elephant; all forgetful of their mutual

hostility and vying with one another in the speed of their escape from

the driver ant, abroad on a foraging expedition, to the number of

infinity.

They make frequent visits to the native villages and the white man’s

premises, usually in the night, spreading over the whole place,—the

ground, the houses, inside and out, and through the roofs. Here they act

as scavengers, driving before them all other insect nuisances, such as

the cockroaches and centipedes, which especially infest the thatched

roofs. Nevertheless, if one should hear the language of the average

white man, upon the occasion of one of these nocturnal visitations, when

the drivers have wakened him rudely and driven him headlong out into the

dark, and perhaps the rain, there to shiver during this untimely

house-cleaning, one would not for a moment mistake it for an expression

of gratitude.

Setting hens must be kept carefully out of their way. In one instance I

knew of the drivers visiting a nest one night when the young chickens

were just coming out of the shells. The empty shells were there in the

morning, but no chickens. If they should gain undiscovered access to a

chicken-house in the night, they would leave nothing but bones and

feathers. At Efulen we built our chicken-house against the workmen’s

house, on the side away from the bush, so that the drivers on their

approach should first visit the workmen and we should be warned in time

to save our chickens.

We had been there only a short time when we were awakened one night by

the familiar outcry as the men were driven out of their house. But the

drivers had come from a different direction that night, and when we went

to the chicken-house we found it already in their possession. It was but

the work of a minute or two to tuck our pajamas inside our socks, bind

our sleeves with handkerchiefs around the wrists, tie another

handkerchief around the neck and pull a cap down over the head. Thus

prepared I entered the chicken-house, the ground and walls of which were

a glistening black mass. Stamping my feet all the time, I snatched the

chickens one by one from the roost, stripped the handful of loose ants

from their legs and handed them out to Dr. Good and Mr. Kerr, who picked

off the remaining ants, after which we brought the chickens into our

house and put them on the pantry shelves until morning, meanwhile

building a line of fire around the house to keep the drivers back.

But it was not long after this that they found the house unguarded one

morning just at daylight when I was alone at Efulen. I was awake but not

yet ready to rise when I heard a low, rustling sound upon the floor of

my room. After a few minutes, observing that it was becoming more

distinct, I drew back my mosquito-net and looked out. Almost the entire

floor was black with the drivers, and they were close to the bed. From

the foot of the bed towards the door it was still possible for me to

escape by a good jump; and in a moment I found myself shivering out in

the yard while my clothes were still in the house.

One day, as Dr. Good and I were entering a native village, Dr. Good

walked through some stray drivers. He began to preach to the people, who

as it happened were already gathered in the street where they had been

taking a palaver. Before he had been preaching more than a minute I

observed that his gestures were more animated than I had ever seen

before. Soon they became violent, noticeably irrelevant and even of

questionable propriety. It was a little like Brer Rabbit, one evening

when the mosquitoes were bad, telling the wolf about his grandfather’s

spots. I looked on with increasing amazement and consternation, until at

last even Dr. Good’s indomitable will was overborne, and he shouted:

“Drivers!” and bolted abruptly for the bush. I tried to go on with the

service, but it was almost impossible because of the laughter of the

audience. Each one insisted upon telling his neighbours all about it, to

the accompaniment of a broad caricature of Dr. Good’s gestures.

There was once a native man in Gaboon who was slightly deranged in his

mind. The government advised, and at last insisted, that he should not

be allowed at large. His family, being averse to confining him, chiefly,

I imagine, because of the care it would entail upon them, sent him to a

village of their relations across the river ten miles distant. There he

remained for some time. The people there bound him at night lest he

might set fire to the town while they slept. He objected to this and at

last became troublesome by calling out continually during the night.

Then they improvised a rude shelter back a short distance from the town,

where they placed him at night and as usual bound him. One night he was

more noisy than ever before, yelling and screaming hideously so that he

wakened the people. They thought that he had become demented but no one

went to him until morning, and then they made the horrible discovery

that the drivers had attacked and devoured him.

In some tribes criminals are sometimes punished by being bound to the

ground in the track of the drivers. One can hardly conceive of anything

more horrible; for they would enter ears and eyes and nostrils. But I

believe this is very rarely done. When death is decided upon, the

Africans usually accomplish it by quick means.

There is another ant which I would say is worse than the driver, were it

not that as yet its distribution is limited and it may be only

transient. It is a very small red ant difficult to see with the naked

eye except in a good light and on a white surface. It takes to dark

closets, upholstered furniture, hair mattresses and those who would

sleep upon them. It has not been long known in those portions of West

Africa that are familiar to the white man. It has come from the

southeast towards the coast. In 1900 it took possession of our

mission-house at Angom, which was not occupied at that time.

It is doubtful whether this ant would be likely to infest a house when

the grass around it is kept closely cut and the house well opened to the

light and air; but when once infested it is not clear that these

precautions would drive it out. One of Woermann’s trading-houses on the

Ogowè had to be abandoned because of it.

My first experience with it was in 1900 when I visited Angom and slept

in the mission-house that had been occupied only occasionally for more

than a year. I was no sooner asleep than I was awakened by an extremely

painful sensation, as if red-hot pepper had been sprinkled all over me.

I felt no sharp bite, but only this intolerable smarting pain. It

occurred to me that I might have been poisoned during the day by some

violently poisonous herb in the bush or the overgrown garden; but I

remained in bed never thinking that the cause of it was there. The

natives told me in the morning what it was. My flesh was badly inflamed

and I had fever all that day. After that I always slept in the boat, or

in later years, the launch, when I visited Angom.

Among African pests there is another red ant, very small, though not so

small as the last. It does not bite nor attack the person, but is

nevertheless a great nuisance, particularly to housekeepers. All table

food must be kept out of its way. Any food remaining on the table even

an hour is covered with them. They are especially fond of sugar; and if

it is left on the table or unprotected from one meal to the next, it is

found a living red mass. By what powerful instinct they immediately

discover the place where food is, and where they come from in such

numbers, are among the mysteries that the white man will often ponder.

Most of our food is imported, in tins, and once a tin is opened it is

kept away from these ants by being placed in a safe suspended from the

ceiling by tarred rope. The safe is a light frame of wood covered with

wire screen or netting.

Besides these, there are numerous other varieties of ants, less harmful,

or altogether harmless. The ground is so infested with them that neither

white man nor native ever thinks of sitting down upon it, as we might

sit upon the grass in this country. Altogether, more than five thousand

varieties of ants have been described and classified; and most of these

are found in Africa.

Among the worst of the African pests is the _jigger_. Those who are most

sensitive to it would without doubt call it the worst of all. If the

pest of the small ant travels from the interior towards the coast, this

pest began at the coast and is extending towards the interior. It has

evidently been imported—tradition says from Brazil, in the cargo and

sand ballast of sailing vessels. The older inhabitants along the coast

remember when it first became known, and I am sure that it made itself

known very soon after it arrived. The jigger is a tiny species of flea,

so small that the naked eye sees it with difficulty. It has all the

reprehensible habits of its kind. The males hop all over one’s person in

a playful manner, giving him a nip here and a nip there; but the females

burrow beneath the skin. The favourite place is the feet, especially

under the nails, but they are frequently found also under the finger

nails and sometimes in the elbows and knees. Here the female, unless

discovered and removed, forms a sac which expands to the size of a small

pea, and which contains hundreds of little jiggers who soon begin to

“jig” for themselves, and burrow again in the same flesh. Many of them

however are scattered on the ground; those that remain keep multiplying,

until if neglected the whole foot becomes a festering sore.

To the African child the jigger is the occasion of its worst suffering.

I have seen children who could not walk, some with toes eaten away, and

several with nearly the whole foot gone. For, to the African and to some

white men, they are not irritating while boring beneath the skin, and

afterwards they are very hard to see, especially in the black skin of

the native. One may know nothing of their presence for several days,

after which they are so hard to remove that the native child will bear

the irritating itch that they first occasion rather than submit to the

pain of removing them; and when the itch has become a painful sore, no

child could remove them. Some African mothers watch their children’s

feet closely but others neglect them cruelly. I am glad to say that

those who allow their feet to get full of jiggers, or mothers who

neglect the care of their children’s feet, are looked down upon, as

lousy persons would be among us, though not to the same extent.

The jiggers are less troublesome in the wet season. But with the dry

season their numbers increase rapidly, and towards the close of the

season the soil and the sand are fairly alive with them. If possible,

missionary boarding-schools ought to have vacation at this time; for the

white missionary is sure to get them in the schoolroom; and the

dormitories, which usually have only earthen floors, become so infested

with them that even native children are often kept awake at night, and

the amount of discipline necessary to make them keep their feet in order

may demoralize the school. There are always children, large and small,

who need no supervision, and are sufficiently self-respecting to keep

their feet clean; but their task is made exceedingly difficult by the

presence in the same dormitory of those who breed jiggers by thousands.

As a rule, with but few exceptions, the children who keep their feet

clean are those who have been in the school before and are known as

mission-boys and mission-girls.

In my boys’ boarding-school of later years one would see a strange sight

each day during the dry season. The whole school filed out at recess and

sat down along either side of the path leading to the mission-house. A

committee of boys examined the feet of the others and reported to me the

name of every boy who had jiggers in his feet; while I stood with

note-book in hand and wrote down their names. Then when the food was

given out at noon these boys were left without food until their feet

were pronounced clean. The larger boys were responsible for those of

their own town or family who were too small to attend to their own feet.

I once kept a boy more than a day without food until he removed his

jiggers, and one hopeless boy I at last expelled from the school for the

offense. For rigid insistence upon this discipline, I felt, lay close to

moral instruction.

The white man of course suffers from jiggers, but not so much as the

native, because of his shoes, his cleaner house, and because his feet

are more sensitive, so that he becomes aware of them after several days

at the most, when they can be removed without injury, if it is very

carefully done. After one has been in Africa a length of time he will

detect their presence as soon as they begin to burrow. Some white men

have a native boy examine their feet every night or morning; for the boy

has very sharp eyes, and he removes the jigger with surprising skill. It

can be done with a pin; a needle is better and a pair of tweezers is

still better. If the sac that is formed after several days be broken in

the removal, it may cause a sore that will take some time to heal.

Indeed, if one be greatly reduced in health and the blood in bad

condition, it may not heal at all until he leaves the country on

furlough. I have known men who for weeks were not able to wear a shoe

because of jigger sores.

After I had been a few months in Africa, one day, while in bed with

fever, I said to a friend that in allowing my feet to touch the floor

beside the bed where natives had been standing, I must have caught the

itch; for a most irritating itch had been troubling me for several days.

My friend at once suggested jiggers as the cause. I answered with great

assurance that it certainly was not jiggers, for I had watched my feet

very closely, having determined from the first that I should get no

jiggers—which of course was true, but I suppose I had been watching for

creatures the size of potato-bugs crawling over my feet I at once called

a native boy, however, wishing perhaps to assure my friend, and the boy

found seven colonies of jiggers. It took my feet a long time to heal.

But it never happened again.

The male jigger, as I have said, does not burrow in the flesh, but

disports himself upon the surface and makes himself very numerous. He is

one of the great variety of influences that keep the white man

constantly scratching. The native scratches too, scratches most of the

time, and often with both hands, but he does not get excited about it,

nor attract so much attention. But the habit is disgusting in the white

man, and after all it is a habit rather than a necessity. A minority

exercise the strongest self-restraint, a larger number exercise

restraint sometimes; many white men, however, exercise no restraint at

all, but scratch continually, regardless of the occasion.

The sandfly, or _midge_, not known at the coast, but widely distributed

in the interior, must be counted among the worst of African pests. They

also are exceedingly small. They do their utmost to make life

intolerable in the early morning hours after daylight, and again in the

evening before dark. Some are more sensitive to them than others. When I

was living in the interior, I bathed my hands and face in kerosene or

turpentine each morning and evening as their hour approached and

sometimes repeated it once or twice before they retired.

The mosquitoes are so bad, especially in the low places along the coast,

that even the natives must sleep under mosquito nets.

In the song of our childhood we were impressed with the possibilities of

such minutiæ—as little drops of water, little grains of sand and little

moments of time, when these are multiplied by infinity. But infinity is

the status of all insect life in Africa. In order to realize the pest of

the mosquito in towns adjacent to mangrove swamps one must multiply the

insect until it seems to compose about fifty per cent. of the

atmosphere. Its music too is impressive.

Wherever possible the white man builds his house upon a well-cleared

hill and so escapes them, sometimes almost entirely as at Baraka. But

this is not always possible. Many missionaries have told of writing

letters while sitting cross-legged on their beds with the mosquito-net

drawn down around the bed.

The centipede is common, especially in those houses that have thatch

roofs. The African centipede is very large, and its bite is poisonous,

though rarely fatal. My first experience with it was one morning, in my

bedroom, when I took a bouquet of flowers off the table and held them to

my face. A large centipede glided out of the flowers, and running

swiftly across my hand and along my arm to the elbow, dropped to the

floor. Fortunately, my sleeve was short, else I should have been bitten.

But one morning that I shall not forget I put on a sock, and there was a

centipede in the toe of it. Unfortunately the sock was in a state of

good repair; there was no hole in the toe. I was badly bitten, for it

was some time before I could get the sock off; and the sickening feeling

of repulsion was worse than the bite. I afterwards acquired the habit of

shaking socks and shoes and clothing before putting them on. It is well

worth while; for if one is disappointed in the matter of centipedes, one

may perhaps shed a scorpion or several roaches, or sometimes even a

snake. There are scorpions in all parts of Africa and in some places

they abound. Their bite is always bad, and that of some varieties is

dangerous.

But if I were asked my opinion as to the very worst pest in Africa, I

would name the roach, or _cockroach_, and I think that the majority of

white men would agree with me. My aversion to this creature is so strong

that I do not pretend to be able to give a dispassionate judgment. It is

a _beast_ of an insect. It is much larger than the familiar cockroach of

this country and is often two inches long; and all its powers and

qualities of disposition are proportionately developed. It multiplies

with amazing rapidity. It has an odour that for real nastiness takes

preëminent rank even in malodorous Africa. It has a voracious appetite,

eats almost everything and seems to get fat on arsenic, which I have fed

to it in large quantities; though some persons declare that it thrives

on arsenic by not eating it and by detecting it even when mixed with

sugar or anything else. It is found in the pantry, in clothing, in the

library, in furniture, in every drawer and every corner, and a thatch

roof is soon full of them. Even in bed one is not always free from them,

for during sleep they often nibble one’s nails and hair. The only way to

kill the cockroach is to crush it, and the result is so disgusting that

one will feel that it has more than avenged its death. Once in a while

in the evening all the cockroaches take to flying, as if seized with a

panic or madness. And when they do this they make one forget all the

other pests of Africa.

If the least bit of butter or grease should touch a suit, one may depend

upon it that unless it is put in a roach-proof trunk the roach will find

that spot, and in the morning a hole will be eaten through. They devour

wool as a horse eats hay; but they will leave both wool and grease for

the starch contained in cloth bookbindings. They show a decided

preference for new books, the starch being softer in these. If, in a

moment of supreme folly, one should leave a book uncovered on a table

over night, he will find it in the morning with several spots upon it

the size of a dime, where the starch and colour are eaten out and the

bare gray threads exposed. This happened to my _Memoirs of Tennyson_;

both volumes were badly defaced in one night. Of course one will cover

with heavy paper—when he _has_ the paper—every book in his library, or,

at least, those that are not already spoiled by the time he gets round

to them; but books so covered lose their identity, like friends in

masquerade. Besides, books thus kept in paper in that damp atmosphere

will soon be covered with mould. If one adds to this that while roaches

or mould are destroying the outside of his books white ants are doing

their best to get at the inside, he will see that the obstacles incident

to literary pursuits in Africa are well-nigh insuperable.

I cannot dismiss the white ant with this passing notice, for it also is

one of the pests of Africa; indeed, there are many who regard it as the

worst of the African pests. It is characteristic of the impudent

hypocrisy of this stealthy insect that it should somehow get itself

called a _white ant_, when, as a matter of fact, it is not an ant at

all, and is not white. It is a dirty-yellow _termite_, a soft-bodied

insect, in appearance like a very small piece of impure tallow. It is

commonest in Africa, but is also found in South America, India and

Ceylon, and one species, it is said, is even found as far north as

Bordeaux.

The admirable and interesting features of the white ant (and it has

some) have nowhere been better described than in Henry Drummond’s

charming chapter in _Tropical Africa_.

The white ant lives underground in colonies of enormous numbers. It

feeds chiefly on dead wood, and its presence is the explanation of the

noticeable fact that there is very little dead wood—rotting logs or

fallen branches—in an African forest. It does not wait until dead

branches fall, but climbs the trees in search of them. But as its body

is choice food for birds and other insects, and as it is defenseless and

even blind, it protects itself whenever it comes above ground by

building an earthen tunnel over itself as it climbs. This yellowish

brown tunnel, a half tube in form, and half an inch wide, one will see

running up trees and posts everywhere in Africa. In building it they

carry the earth in grains or little pellets from below the ground

through the tunnel to the open end of it; then having covered the pellet

thoroughly with a sticky secretion they place it firmly in its proper

position and hurry away for another. The soldiers of the colony, which

are very few comparatively, are armed with formidable jaws. Two or three

of these guard the open end of the tunnel where the work is being done.

They take no part in the work of construction. But if an enemy, usually

in the form of an ant, draw near with the object of capturing a worker,

the soldier in an instant will be upon him. He may pound him to death,

or thrust him through, or using his mandibles like a pair of scissors

may cut him in two, or hurl him from the battlement as with a catapult;

these different methods representing different species. After this the

workers again proceed with the building of the tunnel. These tunnels are

for temporary use and are not nearly as substantial as the nests. They

crumble into dust after a few weeks and are blown away by the wind or

washed down by the rain.

The ant-hills and the ground below are filled with an intricate network

of tunnels. Professor Drummond tells us that in the elevated plains of

Central Africa these ant-hills are mounds ten or fifteen feet high and

thirty or forty feet in diameter, and even then the greater part of the

ant habitation is underground; and that the amount of reddish-brown

earth plastered upon the trees is sufficient to give tone to the

landscape. And this he says is the great agricultural process of the

tropics, which in temperate zones is accomplished by the earthworm

carrying the under soil to the surface, transposing the upper and the

lower layers, doing thoroughly what man does rudely with the plough. In

the lower plains of West Africa, the white ant is not so abundant, nor

the ant-hills nearly so large as those which Professor Drummond saw. Nor

is there any such need of them, for the earthworm is common enough. The

more numerous ant-hills are two or three feet high and are often shaped

like a series of bowls turned upside down one on top of another; but the

shape varies. A good way to provide for young chickens is to send a boy

to the bush to get an ant-hill, then break off several small pieces at a

time and give to the chickens. It will be full of ants, and the

happiness of the chickens will be ample reward: there is nothing that

they like better.

And that reminds me that Schweinfurth, in _The Heart of Africa_, relates

that he himself ate white ants in unlimited quantities. He says they are

especially good with corn. And then he recommends them as best when they

are “partly boiled and partly fried.” I never tried them that way.

The most painstaking study and the most elaborate description of the

white ant that has ever been made is probably that of Karl Escherich,

whose book, _Termitenleben auf Ceylon_, has recently been published.

Escherich spent three months in Ceylon studying the white ant. He

describes thirty-five species of termite existing in Ceylon.

In the nest (the _termetarium_) of many of the species of white ants

there are tunnels and chambers devoted to the growing of a certain

fungus—real fungus gardens. Sometimes two different species of termite

inhabit the same nest, or termites and ants. They live in different

galleries which intermingle but never open into each other. If by the

breaking of a wall they should come together fierce battles ensue.

Sometimes other insects, certain beetles, for instance, live with the

termites as guests, to whom they even feed the larvæ. Their presence is

probably a protection against their enemies; and they seem to have many.

An army of marauding ants will sometimes invade the nest and seek to

carry off the occupants.

There are several distinct castes in the social organization of the

termites; the queen, the males, the soldiers, the workers and the larvæ.

The queen is enormous in size as compared with the workers; sometimes

three inches long. And exalted to the throne she never moves again, but

confines her activities to the laying of eggs, which she deposits at the

rate of several thousand a day. But more remarkable than either her size

or her ugliness is the fact (stated by Escherich) that she sweats out to

the surface of her body a substance which is eagerly devoured by the

workers. It is this “exudate” which binds them to her and for which they

feed and cherish her. The workers are continually licking her and

Escherich declares that he saw one worker tear out a piece of the

mother’s hide and eagerly drink the liquid which flowed from the wound.

And as her body was scarred in many places it would seem that this was

not uncommon.

A certain “ant-exterminator” has been used successfully in destroying

the white ant. It consists of a charcoal stove on one side of which is a

hand-pump and on the other a hose. A powder of eighty-five parts of

arsenic and fifteen parts of sulphur is thrown upon the glowing charcoal

and by means of the pump and the hose the fumes are forced into the

nest. Then the entrance is plugged and the nest is left thus for several

days.

But perhaps somebody is asking why an insect so wonderful and

interesting should be destroyed at all. And that reminds me that I

classified the white ant as a pest—and one of the worst pests in Africa.

When the white ant devours an object, a dead branch, for instance, it

works inside, consumes the whole interior and leaves the thinnest shell

of an exterior, an empty shape, which yields at a touch and falls into

dust or nothing. And unless one watches very closely, or provides some

special protection, it will do this same thing with his house or the

furniture in it, or the wooden posts under it. White men’s houses are

built upon posts and elevated several feet from the ground. A post

beneath the house, though of the hardest wood, and appearing to the eye

to be quite sound, may in fact be a hollow cylinder which will collapse

at a kick. Iron pillars are now generally used instead of wood, iron

being about the only substance which the white ant cannot eat. But one

must watch the iron pillars closely for the earthen tunnel leading from

the ground to the wooden beams above; for once they get into a house

they can never be gotten out. A board in the floor will collapse, or a

trunk, of which they have left only a shell. They are very fond of

paper; so one must especially watch his library, or some day he will

take down his favourite poet only to find that there is nothing of it

but cover and the edges of the leaves. I know this very thing to have

happened.

I contracted a special prejudice against them when they came out of the

floor into my barrel of sermons—and I remembered the particular quality

of food they are supposed to relish. I was not using those sermons in

Africa and it is not likely I should ever have used them again anywhere;

neither am I the victim of any delusion in regard to the loss that the

world sustained in their destruction. The loss was mine alone, and was

chiefly sentimental. But a minister usually has a unique regard for his

sermons, a regard proportioned to the extent that they represent the

sweat of the brain and the heart. In this instance the destruction was

only partial; for by a mere accident I discovered them before they had

entirely chewed and digested all my sermons.

These are a few of the most troublesome insect pests, and there are

others.

There is the big flying beetle, purblind and stupid, that comes in the

evening and looks the size of a bat; that circles around the table

several times, with a noisy boom, tumbles at length into the gravy and

then flops into your face. There is the hippo fly, like an enormous

horsefly, that thrusts a stiletto into one through his clothing. In the

upper part of the Gaboon River, where navigation with a launch was

dangerous and I stood constantly by the engine, I had a boy, sometimes

two boys, standing beside me with fly-brushes to keep them off.

There are caterpillars the very touch of whose hair is poisonous and

produces an irritation of the skin. There are wasps that daub nests of

mud on frames and furniture and even on clothing if it is left hanging

for a while without being disturbed. In many parts there are myriads of

may-flies that swarm about sunset, that is, about dinnertime. Sir Harry

Johnston complains that these may-flies give soup an aromatic flavour.

There is the boring beetle that burrows into the rafters, reducing them

to dust. There is the _walking-stick_, a slender dead twig, six or eight

inches long, with lateral stems, which you sometimes find hanging to

your curtains or mosquito-net, and which, when you take it in your

fingers to throw it out, suddenly spreads aborted wings, nearly

transparent and of purple hue, and flies around you, a creature of only

one magnitude—length without breadth; a conglomeration of dark lines

plunging through the air. Then, startled out of your wits, you think you

have seen the devil for sure.

I have not touched upon the numerous internal parasites that prey upon

humanity. Only a scientific expert ought to risk telling extensively of

these incredibilities. Among them is the _eye-worm_, one of the

_Filaria_, which in spite of its euphonious name is an abomination. It

is a white, thread-like worm, an inch long, that goes all through the

body beneath the epidermis. It becomes visible only in the white of the

eye, and while there a doctor can remove it. But it must be done, not

only with extreme care, but promptly, for it does not stay long in one

place. It is extremely irritating in the eye, but in other parts of the

body, although it causes distressful itching, it is not so irritating as

one would expect. It sometimes causes swelling, especially in the back

of the hand. Every few days my forearm or my hand was swollen from the

presence of this worm. I have seen a ridge across the nose where a

colony was passing. I have been told that the eye-worm and the worm that

circulates beneath the epidermis are not identical. I am not sure about

it; but I hope there are not two of them.

The guinea worm belongs to the same family, with the beautiful name, the

_Filaria_. The larva enters the human body in drinking-water and makes

its way to the subcutaneous tissue of its host’s leg, where it often

causes serious abscesses. It grows rapidly, curling round and round and

raising the skin. It often reaches a length of ten feet and sometimes

more.

All African houses are infested with rats and mice. The white man has

introduced the cat. But there are still very few and they are so highly

valued that among the Fang in late years a cat has been made a part of

the dowry which a man pays for his wife. It was several months after our

first house was built at Efulen before we were able to procure a cat

from the coast. In that time the rats had full possession of the house

and merely tolerated us. They gambolled all night over the beds in which

we were sleeping, and over ourselves, sometimes even getting under the

cover. I had always abhorred them, and I was led to use a mosquito-net,

not for mosquitoes, but to keep the rats out. I never got so used to

them but that I sprang out of bed whenever they got into it. Finding

that the mosquito-net did not altogether suffice, I hit upon the happy

expedient of keeping a lamp lighted in my room all night. This was

effective to some extent, but only by driving them into the rooms

occupied by my fellow missionaries, Dr. Good and Mr. Kerr, whose

abhorrence of them, however, was not equal to mine. They wondered why I

kept the lamp burning, but I did not tell them; for if we all had lamps

the rats would have no choice of room, and surely a man has some right

to profit by his own discovery. I desisted from this practice as soon as

Dr. Good solved my purpose, which he did one night after he had gone to

bed, and instantly announced it with a shout.

But at last a new missionary arrived in the shape of a gray cat, and we

welcomed her with a lavish entertainment of sport and feast, delicately

adapted to the instinct and the palate of her feline ladyship. All that

night there was wild riot in the pantry where we had put her. In the

morning that cat was the shape of a beer-barrel; and, besides, there lay

on the pantry floor nine dead rats.

When I slept in native houses I always wore socks at night. The natives

declare that the rats attack them during sleep, especially their feet.

And they say that the rat blows upon the wound that it makes so that the

sleeper will not feel it. From this belief there is a current proverb

which they apply to a flatterer, or to one who, while using smooth

words, would inflict an injury: “He blows upon the wound that he makes.”

The natives are perhaps more afraid of snakes than anything else, and

with good reason. Africa is the home of deadly snakes. Most of them are

nocturnal, and as the white man stays within doors at night, he may be

in Africa many months before he realizes how abundant they are. Whenever

it was necessary to go out at night, I always carried a long staff which

I pushed along the path ahead of me.

One of our schoolboys at Gaboon, one night about eight o’clock, was

walking down towards the beach in the middle of a wide road, when he

stepped on a small snake. It bit him, and in about half an hour he died

in great agony. At Batanga a woman one night, stepping out of her door,

placed her foot on a snake that was coiled upon the door-step. She was

bitten and died immediately. Sometimes they get into the thatch roofs of

the houses, and between the bamboo walls; but this rarely happens in the

better houses in which the white man lives. One of our missionary ladies

at Benito, while she was sick in bed with fever, found a snake coiled

under her pillow.

The natives upon being bitten by a snake immediately cauterize the wound

with a red-hot iron; or, when that is not procurable, they will cut out

a piece of the flesh around it, often cutting off a finger or a toe to

save a life. They seem to have the idea that all snakes are deadly, and

if one ask, in regard to a particular snake, whether it is poisonous,

the certain response will be an exclamation of astonishment at his

ignorance. They solemnly declare in regard to many varieties that they

will spring at a man and go straight through his body. This is a strange

delusion, considering their usual accuracy of observation and knowledge

in regard to animals. It is probably accounted for by the superstitions

that attach to snakes. In many African tribes the snake is sacred. In

those tribes they are frequently used by the priests as an ordeal in

discovering criminals. The people are ranged about the priest, who is a

snake-charmer. He passes around bringing the snake into contact with

each person. The person whom it bites is adjudged guilty.

The characteristic snakes, especially the deadly vipers which abound,

are of bright and variegated colours, green, red, yellow and black. Some

call them beautiful, but in most of us the association of ideas makes it

impossible for us to see any beauty in a snake. Their colours are the

very colours of nature around them; and therefore, instead of making

them conspicuous, are really an approximation to invisibility—though I

believe that the protective colouration of animals, as a principle, has

been exaggerated.

A recent traveller says that in crossing the entire continent of Africa

he saw only two snakes, and he adds that since he succeeded in killing

both of them there are now no snakes in Africa, so far as he knows. I am

reminded of a vivid experience when an American friend, Mr. Northam,

stayed some months in Gaboon and collected biological specimens. Mr.

Northam asked me whether there were many snakes around Gaboon. I told

him that there were very few. At his suggestion I told my schoolboys

that he wished to collect snakes and would give them something for all

the valuable snakes they would bring to him. The immediate result was

enough to make a man think that he had been suddenly precipitated into a

state of delirium tremens. I had not supposed that there were so many

snakes in all Africa. A continual procession of boys passed my door,

each with some horrible kind of snake dangling from a stick, or dragging

along the ground. And I had said there were but few snakes in Gaboon!

The explanation is that I kept to the paths while abroad, and snakes are

seldom found in the paths in the daytime; for they are mostly nocturnal

in their habits, and I was not. But the boys know where to find them at

any time.

After all, life in Africa is quite tolerable. As I think back over this

formidable array of pests, I am somewhat surprised that I was not more

conscious of them while in Africa, and that I had leisure to do anything

else but fight them. The explanation is that, although one is fighting

some of them all the time, one is never fighting them all at the same

time.

VII

THE “CANNIBAL” FANG

“The Mpongwe have plenty of salt in them,” said one of my boat-boys. He

was a Fang, and he was speaking of the coast tribe.

“The Mpongwe have plenty of salt,” he repeated. I drew out my note-book

and credited the boy with a very interesting and expressive designation

of a moral quality. Such an improvement on our word _sand_! It was not

less interesting, however, when I found that he meant it not morally,

but literally—that he was speaking not metaphorically, but

gastronomically. As a matter of fact, not one of these boat-boys had

ever tasted human flesh, and they would have been insulted at the

imputation of cannibalism; but it is not long since their fathers

emerged from cannibalism, and tradition still distinguishes the flesh of

the various surrounding tribes, ascribing a preferable flavour to this

or that tribe. It is generally understood that the coast tribes are

better flavoured than those of the interior.

The Fang are nearly always referred to as the _cannibal_ Fang; and the

casual reader might suppose that they were the worst cannibals in

Africa. But the cannibalism of the Fang does not compare, either in

extent or hideousness, with that of the Congo tribes, as we shall see.

[Illustration:

A FANG FAMILY.

]

The Fang is one of the largest and most important of the West African

tribes. For many years they have been moving from the far interior

towards the coast, burning, killing and even eating their way through

the older coast tribes. They have now emerged at many points along the

coast, of which Gaboon was probably the first. The tributaries of the

Gaboon form a network of waterways, which are also the highways. There

are but few bush roads in this part of the jungle and they are of the

worst kind; in the wet season mud to the knees alternating with water to

the waist, and deeper. Along the rivers and streams the Fang have built

their towns. The population of a town varies from fifty to two hundred.

Most of my work was done among the Fang. From Baraka I reached their

towns by boat and canoe, in later years by the launch _Dorothy_.

The Fang are brown, not black in colour, and are several shades lighter

than the coast tribes. Their colour is quite to their liking. They

regard themselves as far better looking than white people. The men are

usually tall, athletic and remarkably well formed, though not as full in

the chest as a perfect physique would require. Most of the younger men

are fairly good looking. Many of the younger women have pretty faces,

but they are not nearly as intelligent looking as the men. Many of the

children are beautiful, with sweet faces and lovely eyes.

“They think they are better looking than white people.” And why not? I

myself do not so regard them; but I may be wrong. Questions of beauty

are decided by reference to some standard in the mind; but whether the

standard depends upon custom, and varies with it, is a matter of doubt

and dispute. My own judgment, like that of others, was modified as I

lived among the black people. Sir Joshua Reynolds advanced the notion,

according to Hazlitt, that beauty was entirely dependent on custom. I

feel, with Hazlitt himself, that custom, though powerful, is not the

only principle of our preference for the appearance of certain objects

more than others; that what constitutes beauty is in some way inherent

in the object, and that “if custom is a second nature there is another

nature which ranks above it.” Hazlitt in his argument contrasts the

Greek and the African face, doing injustice, I believe, to the latter.

Yet in general one must admit that Hazlitt is right. In the Greek face

he finds a conformity to itself, a symmetry of feature with feature and

a subtle, involuted harmony of lines, which he says is wholly wanting in

the African face. The Greek face is beautiful, “because it is made up of

lines corresponding with or melting into each other;” the African face

is not so, “because it is made up almost entirely of contradictory lines

and sharp angular projections.”

“The general principle of difference between the two heads is this: The

forehead of the Greek is square and upright, and, as it were, overhangs

the rest of the face, except the nose, which is a continuation of it

almost in an even line. In the Negro, or African, the tip of the nose is

the most projected part of the face; and from that point the features

retreat back, both upwards towards the forehead, and downwards towards

the chin. This last form is an approximation to the shape of the head of

the animal, as the former bears the strongest stamp of humanity.”

The African physiognomy, he further observes, is made up of jagged,

cross-grained lines, starting out in every oblique direction, and in

fact appears “splitting in pieces.”

But the African physiognomy is also consistent with itself; its

abruptness is uniform. There is regularity in the violence of its

changes; and may not this also constitute beauty to an accustomed eye?

It is certain that there is in such a face the possibility of an

extraordinary expression of grandeur and moral force; and these also are

aspects of beauty, as well as the intellectual and affectional elements

that constitute the expression of the Greek face. There is a beauty of

mountains as well as of meadows.

However it may be, we who have lived long among the Africans, and

without the distemper of racial prejudice, do invariably find that our

ideas, or our standards, gradually undergo such a change that the

African face appears to us in varying degrees of beauty, much as that of

the white; beauty which at first we did not see. Even the nose, which

bears a striking resemblance to the ace of clubs, at length, with

custom, ceases to appear ugly, and seems the absolutely proper nose for

the African physiognomy. And they surely have beautiful eyes.

Yet one must admit that it is not eyes, nor noses, nor even faces, but

legs, that are most in evidence in African society. I suppose it is

because we are not used to seeing those honourable and useful members

exposed that they are so conspicuous. Looking at an African crowd,

especially when seated on the ground as in a village service or

listening to a native “palaver,” with their knees elevated in front of

them, there seems to be ten times as many legs as people. Their variety

also commands attention. There are long legs and short legs, lean legs

and fat legs, straight legs and crooked legs, gnarled legs, knotted

legs, brown legs and black legs.

Probably nowhere in the world is life more primitive. How little a man

can live on! How much he can do without! An African can be happy with a

pot, a pipe and a tom-tom. I have shown some of them a wheel for the

first time, making use of a toy, and have explained its use while they

wondered. At Vivi, on the Congo, they tell that when they began to build

the railroad they unloaded a shipment of wheelbarrows and ordered the

workmen to use them in removing the débris. A little later they observed

the workmen marching in single file with the loaded wheelbarrows on

their heads. They have only the vaguest idea of passing time. They never

know their own ages, of course; neither can they understand why anybody

should want to know. A man of middle age makes a serious guess that he

is ten years old. A French judge in Senegal tells how that a man,

brought before him, gave his age as five years—when he had been weaned

at least twenty-five.

The Fang when they first come from the interior go almost entirely

naked. The men wear a bit of bark-cloth, the women a few leaves,

children to the age of nine or ten years wear nothing. But as soon as

they come in contact with coast people they all begin to wear imported

cloth. A chief soon attains the dignity of a shirt. If they have little

use for clothes they are passionately fond of ornamentation. When they

first come from the interior they are fairly loaded with beads and

brass, the latter made into heavy arm-rings, leg-rings, neck-rings and

coiled bracelets which cover the entire forearm. At first they regard

clothes also as ornamentation and they think that white people, in

comparison with them, are exceedingly vain.

I was holding a service in a Bulu town when a woman entered and

immediately engaged the attention of the feminine portion of the

audience. On the preceding day she had visited the mission and I had

dressed and bandaged an ulcer on her leg. The white bandage had caught

her fancy and she removed it that she might keep it clean; and now she

came to the service with it round her neck. The women looked at her,

drew a long loud breath and nudged their neighbours. It was very plain

that in their opinion she was much overdressed. And, strange to say, she

impressed me in that same way. At least, compared with the others, she

looked as if she might be dressed for a sleigh-ride.

The staple food of the Fang is cassava—that which Stanley calls

_manioc_—which is the root of a shrub, a little like our elder in

appearance, from which our tapioca is prepared. They use it however in a

much coarser form than tapioca. The root is left macerating in water for

several days which has the effect of removing certain poisonous

principles. Then it is placed in a wooden trough and beaten into a mass

with a wooden pestle. After this it is made into straight slender rolls

a foot long, wrapped in plantain leaves, bound around with fibre and

boiled. It tastes a little like boiled tapioca. But whereas we are

accustomed to eat the tasteless tapioca with cream and sugar, the native

has neither of these and thinks himself very fortunate if he has a

little salt to season it. Sometimes in travelling I have used it for

several days; but I have improved it by frying it in butter. The cassava

when properly prepared is evidently wholesome; but one may frequently

see it soaking in a dirty, stagnant pool, the same pool that the whole

town has used, for that and other purposes, week after week and month

after month. No one can imagine the variety of germs that it may soak up

during the several days that it lies in such a pool. The native is

chronically full of worms. He knows it and attributes most pain to their

presence. In declaring that he has a headache he places his hand on his

forehead and says: “Worms are biting me.” A little kind teaching in the

better preparation of their food would be good missionary employment.

Besides cassava, they have plantains, bananas, sweet potatoes, corn,

groundnuts and a few other foods that are less common. None of these

food products are indigenous. Most of them, including even cassava, it

is said, were introduced by the Portuguese, at intervals within the last

three hundred years. Meat is not regarded as a necessity, although there

is a chronic hunger for it, to which some have attributed their practice

of cannibalism. In most towns there are a few goats and sheep and

chickens; but they are reserved for feasts and festive occasions. They

hunt and trap all the wild animals of the forest and are not averse to

eating any of them, including snakes, even in an advanced stage of

decomposition. On the lower Gaboon they have abundance of fish, which

they catch with various baskets, nets, and seines. There are certain

insects, grubs and caterpillars which they also eat. One day a boy

reported to me that the natives of a near-by town had found a bee-tree,

and they wished to know whether I would buy the honey. Buy it? I should

think so! I could scarcely wait for it. They brought it at length; but

instead of smoking the bees _out_, they had smoked them _in_; they

offered me a great mass of honey and grubs and dead bees.

They do not eat eggs; neither do they ever drink milk or use it in any

form and our use of it is somewhat disgusting to them. A friend once

offered milk to a Kru-boy just to try him, and he replied

contemptuously: “Milk be fit only for piccaninny; I no be piccaninny.”

They have seen white men milk the goat, which always requires a number

of natives to hold the animal. And once when Mr. Gault of Batanga was

explaining to a group of natives about the cow, which gives the milk

that we import in tins, describing her size and her great horns, one of

the natives suddenly turning to the others exclaimed: “Say, he is lying.

How could they hold her?” Since that time most of them have seen cattle.

The Fang wife prepares the food for her husband and sets it in the

_palaver-house_, or public-house of the town, where he eats with the

other men. She does not eat with them. There is no regular time in the

day for eating; and when they have begun to eat there is no regular time

for stopping. The quantity of food is the only limit. On a journey they

can go without food a very long time, far surpassing the endurance of

the white man. And they are often compelled to travel with empty

stomachs from their habit of eating all their food the first day. But

afterwards they will make up for this abstinence, however prolonged.

Indeed, it is by their gluttony, rather than in other ways, that they

first exhibit their degradation to the white man. I have said that the

children were usually pretty; but sometimes they are dreadfully

misshapen by a distended stomach. The last mail brought me a charming

picture of a little three-year-old missionary boy of Gaboon, prodding

the stomach of a native child with his finger, and with eyes of wonder,

asking: “Is dat your tummy?”

One of their first efforts, after coming in contact with the white man,

is an attempt to acquire the noble art of eating with a spoon. But in

the first practice of it if they forget themselves for a moment they are

very likely to put the hand to the mouth in the old way and drive the

spoon round to the ear. Considering their ignorance they are

surprisingly cleanly in their persons and their habits. After eating

they invariably rinse their mouths with water and they regularly brush

their teeth. For the latter purpose they commonly use a brush of soft

wood with transverse ridges. They are very particular about this. Often

a carrier in the bush will carry his brush along with him. Sometimes it

is the sum-total of his personal effects. Everybody knows that the

African has beautiful teeth. But in some tribes, and even among the Fang

of the far interior, they often file the front teeth to a point,

thinking to add to their beauty, but in fact adding greatly to their

ugliness.

I have said that the Fang are cannibals. But this loathsome custom is

not as common among them as travellers have generally reported. I doubt

whether the Fang eat any but their enemies—captives taken in war. And

their chronic meat-hunger is not the only reason for eating their

enemies. It is done as an insult to the enemy, the most deadly insult

that can be offered, and means that the war will be fought to a finish,

or at least until the other side has eaten one of the enemy. But the

practice of cannibalism in war is intimately related to fetishism. It is

believed that after eating one of the enemy, the latter can do them no

harm. Their bullets will glance harmlessly off their bodies, or will

even go through them without hurting, if indeed they hit them at all.

Cannibalism affords them the strongest possible fetish protection.

The cannibalism of the Upper Congo tribes is much worse than this and is

almost indescribable. Some of them eat their own dead. Sir Harry

Johnston tells us that the Basoko tribe bury none but their chiefs.

Others, who would not eat their own dead, exchange them for the dead of

a neighbouring clan.

This vicious taste often becomes a mania with the African, an obsession,

like the ungovernable appetite for rum, until he thinks of man chiefly

as food to satisfy this craving. Among such tribes raids are made on

their neighbours for the express purpose of cannibalism. Sir Harry

Johnston speaks of the son of a celebrated chief who once exclaimed:

“Ah! I wish I could eat everybody on earth!” and also of a Bangala chief

who ate his seven wives in succession, inviting his friends and close

associates to the feast. It is more than possible that these lowest

forms of cannibalism are due to the demoralization incident to the

slave-raids of the Arabs. The Arabs were succeeded by the Belgians; but

some of those who are best qualified to judge think that the régime of

the Belgians has been worse than that of the Arabs.

Among tribes to whom such forms of cannibalism would be revolting, there

are probably individual inhuman ghouls, who exhume the bodies of the

dead in the night and eat them. And it may be from this fact that

witches are always accused of eating people.

If it be true, then, throughout the entire Fang tribe, that they eat

only their enemies it will be seen that their cannibalism is very

different in extent and even in loathsomeness from that of some other

tribes. It is a fact, however, that the cannibal tribes are not

necessarily lower than the others, but may be quite as gentle and

tractable and quite as capable. And from this some have argued that,

after all, our horror of cannibalism is purely conventional, due to

custom and training; and that there is no essential difference between

eating human flesh and that of the lower animals, except in imagination.

But the readiness with which whole tribes renounce the custom, become

ashamed of it, and contract the white man’s abhorrence for it, confirms

the belief that it is never legitimate and must always be regarded as a

vice. In such matters imagination may be closer to our moral natures

than we know.

A certain town on the Gaboon named _Alum_—when I left Africa I knew

personally most of the men, women and children of the town—is populated

by one of the most intractable clans of the Fang. Though peculiarly

fierce in war, they are otherwise gentle and courteous. The venerable

chief I regarded as a particular friend. He had a long beard—somewhat

rare among the Fang and highly esteemed. It was braided tightly and tied

on the end with a string as venerable as the beard itself. The braid was

not for fashion or beauty. It was intended to prevent the possible loss

of stray hairs that might fall into the hands of an enemy and be used as

a powerful fetish against him. Upon my leaving the town at the

conclusion of a visit it was in accord with custom for him to express

his personal regard for me by taking my hand in his and spitting in it.

In order to appreciate this beautiful custom one must regard it

spiritually—if he can. It is called “blowing a blessing.” The blessing

is blown with the breath and the spitting is a trivial accessory.

It was when these people first migrated from the interior bush that the

following incident occurred—which was told to me by Sonia of Gaboon who

knew all the persons concerned. A certain man’s wife having several

times eloped with a man of another town and having caused the husband

much trouble and humiliation, he at last became so enraged that instead

of seeking to procure her return he determined upon a bloody revenge.

With several companions he immediately started in a canoe for the town

where her father and mother lived, arriving before they had heard the

news of their daughter’s latest elopement. At some distance from the

town they left the canoe and entered the forest. All the others of the

party hid themselves near the path while the man himself went on to the

town and professed to have come just to make his mother-in-law a

friendly visit. Addressing her as _Mother_, he told her that he had

killed a bush-pig in the forest and that he had come to ask her to go

with him to get some of it before he should take it home. The woman,

without doubting, followed him along the path.

After a while she said: “Son, it is far and I am old.”

He told her that it was only a short distance ahead; so she went on.

Soon again she exclaimed: “Ah, son, it is very far and I am old.”

He replied that it was now very near, thus enticing her far from town.

At last he exclaimed: “Mother, here it is!”

At his word the party in ambush sprang upon her and with their swords

killed her. They then cut from her body one entire leg, which they took

to their town and ate. He had avenged his injured dignity and had

removed his shame. He had no longer any reason to feel ashamed!

He sent a brief message to the unfaithful wife: “Stay where you are; the

palaver is finished.”

I must say that this incident is not fairly representative of the

African savage. Not that it exaggerates his brutality, when he is

enraged; but there is in it an element of treachery which is oriental

rather than African. He does not usually conceal his anger, but hastens

to express it in passionate words. And when one has succeeded in

allaying his passion and soothing his feelings, and he has again smiled

and sworn friendship, one may reckon assuredly that the palaver is ended

and that the smile does not conceal malice nor intent of revenge. He is

passionate but not vindictive, cruel but not treacherous.

A few years have made such changes that the Fang of the Gaboon, instead

of boasting of cannibalism, would indignantly deny it. In the interior

they still practice it as an insult to the enemy. But on the Gaboon they

insult the enemy by charging it against them.

“The African,” says Booker T. Washington, “lives like a child, in the

realm of emotion and feeling.” And a white man among Africans lives much

in that same realm. His experience is largely a succession of

contrasting emotions. Sick with disgust and hopelessness, when brought

into contact with such loathsome features of degradation as we have been

considering, he consigns the whole black race to perdition, and anon

some pathetic circumstance reveals a wealth of moral possibilities,

which touches the heart and makes him ashamed; some unconscious action

of real friendship and confidence in the white man, it may be; some

expression of the profound affection on the part of a savage towards his

mother and children; or some rude work of art which he displays with

pride, something upon which he has expended astonishing labour for

beauty’s sake alone—crude enough, to be sure, but giving “thoughts that

do often lie too deep for tears.” He has a shapely stool which he cuts

out of a solid block of light mahogany, with only one tool, a rude adz

of his own making. He has absolutely no knowledge of joinery, so he cuts

it out of the solid block, expending upon it an amount of patient labour

of which he is usually considered incapable. He also pyrographs it with

artistic decorations. Why all this labour when the solid block itself is

quite as serviceable, and far more stable? He has an inward sense of

beauty to which he must make it conform, an ideal which commands him and

which he strives to execute. The brass handle of his sword he decorates

by ingenious and not unskillful repoussé designs. The mats that the

women weave are decorated with patterns in colours, requiring care and

skill in their making.

The curiosity of those who have not seen a white man before, or are not

used to seeing him, is unbounded and at first attaches to everything

that he possesses. Magic is their easy explanation of everything they do

not understand. A match (until they become accustomed to it) will

scatter a crowd as quickly as a Gatling gun. It is the supernatural of

which they are most afraid; as with us, those who believe in ghosts are

more afraid of them than the worst of living enemies.

Nothing of ours is more wonderful or more desired than the

looking-glass. Yet they are not always conceited in regard to their

appearance. One poor interior woman, seeing her face in the

looking-glass for the first time, sank to the ground with a little cry,

and said: “I did not think I was so ugly.”

Their wonder is not always directed as we would expect. It is not the

greatest achievement that excites the greatest wonder. One day, after my

return to America, in company with a friend I was passing one of the

greatest buildings of Chicago, when the friend said: “What would your

Africans think of such a building?”

“My Africans,” I replied (pointing to a man on the corner with a tin

monkey climbing a string), “would be so entirely occupied with that tin

monkey climbing a string that you could not get them to look at the

building.”

In the invention of the monkey they would have some comprehension of the

difficulties to be overcome, while not knowing how it had been

accomplished; hence the mystery. But in the case of the great building

they have no present knowledge which would enable them in any measure to

realize the difficulties, or the principles involved. The African

wonders most at those things which bear some relation to his present

knowledge. For wonder is not exactly an expression of ignorance, as it

has been called, but rather an expression of imperfect knowledge.

All things in our possession of which they did not know the use were

regarded as fetishes. I wore glasses when studying. One day at Efulen I

came out of the house with the glasses on. A group of women were

standing in front of the house; and several of them, seeing me look at

them through the glasses, fell flat on the ground; whereupon I

discovered that they supposed my glasses were a fetish by which I might

(as one of them said) turn them into monkeys. They supposed that we were

“spirits,” and so they called us. Looking at my black shoes one of them

exclaimed: “The spirit’s hands and face are white, but his feet are

black, and I suppose the rest of his body is black.”

Another said: “The spirit has feet, but he has no toes.”

Another said: “What an ugly colour! But he would be a beauty if he were

black.”

Dear reader: Were you ever an object of curiosity? Of course you have

been on some single occasion—for a passing moment, or even a whole

evening. But I mean day after day, and all the time, for an indefinite

period. If so, you have my profound sympathy.

VIII

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS

The Fang is a resourceful man, though he has no genius for mechanical

invention. He wrests from nature all that he needs and does not depend

upon his neighbour.

He lives in a house of bark or bamboo with a roof of thatch, for which

he gathers the materials, and builds it all himself. In his primitive

condition his only clothing is bark-cloth which he skillfully hammers

out of fibrous bark. With the fibre of the pineapple, he weaves a

powder-pouch, or other similar convenience. He makes himself an

excellent canoe and is scarcely surpassed as an expert in its

management. He is also a fisherman; and he knits his own fish-net. For

the latter he now uses imported string; but without the imported string

he could use some vegetable fibre. If he wishes to improve his primitive

bed of poles he makes a grass mat. An old woman one day taught me the

art of mat-making. I sat beside her at the loom, in the street, and

worked under her supervision until she declared me quite proficient—so

much so, she said with some anxiety, that there was no need of my doing

any more. The African’s knowledge, too, however meagre, is as varied as

his skill. As he becomes civilized he will specialize. There will be

division of labour in the community and mutual dependence upon one

another. No doubt he will gain much; but he will also lose something, he

will lose in resourcefulness; he will lose something of freedom and the

spirit of independence. And unless he gain much in that which is moral

and spiritual, his loss will be a misfortune wholly grievous.

I venture the statement that the African is not lazy—at least not _very_

lazy. He is idle not so much because he hates work, but rather because

he is unambitious and the unfortunate victim of a habit of content. He

will not work for the sake of working, because, unlike the white man, he

can be supremely content in idleness. But offer him something that he

really desires or deems worth while and he will work amazingly. There

are only one or two things that the African will work for; that is to

say there are only one or two things that he wants.

He will work to earn a dowry in order to marry; especially if he has in

mind some particular woman as the prospective wife. Month after month he

will labour and even for a year or two he will engage in the hardest

work. But just as the white master is about to reverse his opinion of

the whole black race and proclaim that they are the greatest workers in

the world the man completes the amount of the dowry, and immediately he

quits. No inducement will tempt him to continue. To offer him double

wages would only lower his estimate of your intelligence. He will work

for an end that he desires; but the ordinary motives of the white man do

not appeal to him at all. He will never work for the mere sake of

accumulating wealth.

The men do all the building, and when a new garden is made the men cut

down the trees. Their hardest work is incident to war or hunting, but it

is occasional, and most of their time is spent in absolute idleness. The

regular work is done by the women. It is chiefly that of caring for the

gardens (which are sometimes far from the town), carrying home the

produce, gathering wood and carrying it from the forest, and cooking the

food. They rise at daylight and start for the gardens, leaving the care

of the babies to older children or to their husbands. I have seen the

husband of six wives taking care of several hungry babies whose mothers

have been long in the gardens; and it seemed to me that he, rather than

the wives, had the heavier end of the domestic responsibilities.

There is one other instinct besides that of matrimony that will stir the

dormant energy of the native, and that is the love of driving a bargain.

He is a born trader. But if prices, however high, should become

hopelessly fixed, and shrewdness have no advantage, I am not sure that

he would care any more for the trade.

Wherever a foreign government has not interfered with African custom the

produce of the interior, chiefly rubber and ivory, is carried from the

far interior, in brief stages, by successive caravans. The original

owners of the ivory start coastward in a company. Beyond a certain limit

they cannot go, as the people will not allow them to pass. They must

give over the ivory to others who will carry it over the next stage and

in turn deliver it to others. There may be five or six stages in the

journey to the coast. The first company when they deliver the produce to

the next do not return home but remain in the town of the second company

until their return, often assuming their marital relations in their

absence. The second company does the same in regard to the third, and

the others likewise. Since the goods received in payment must come from

the coast, no bargain is made until the return journey. The last company

carries the ivory to the coast and obtains goods in payment, returning

to their town, where the preceding company is waiting. Then follows a

great palaver and oceans of oratory. The company in possession seek to

keep as large a portion as possible of the goods and to give as little

as possible to the interior people. The palaver at last being settled,

this company starts for home and again, after an exciting palaver,

divides the goods with the next company, whom they find still waiting

for them. This is repeated with each successive stage until at last the

original owners, after weeks of waiting, get a small remainder of the

goods, or at least a souvenir, for their ivory. The principal

satisfaction is perhaps not the actual amount of the goods, but the big

palaver, and the driving of a shrewd bargain.

The fetish folk of West Africa · 第 12 / 40 题