Contents

I

THE WHITE MAN’S GRAVE 15

The Coast—The Old Coaster—His

obsession—Angom—Loneliness—Gaboon—The seasons—Ice that

burned—A _peculiar_ climate—The mosquito—Quinine—Frightened

into fever—A matter of coffins.

II

“THE WISE ONES” 29

From palm-oil to trousers—Mpongwe and Fang—Making a

king—Caste—Domestic slavery—Ndinga, a human leopard—A Gaboon

belle—Native courtesy—A fight—A war-custom—The cause of the

tide—A dying confession—A case of witchcraft—Curing the sick—A

secret society.

III

A DYING TRIBE 42

Women who cannot marry—The slave-trade—The

rum-traffic—Elida—Augustus—Trade and polygamy—Too proud to

speak—Destruction of authority—Customs not irrational—The

dowry—The foreign governments—The whipping-post—A fatal

defect.

IV

A LIVING REMNANT 56

A difficult work—The Jesuits—Iguwi—Single blessedness—A chicken

breakfast—Buttons—A remarkable illustration—A

service—Fluency—Toko Truman—Izuri—Ntyango—Sara—Lucina—Uncle

Remus—_The Tortoise and his Creditors_—_The Wag_—A battle in

canoes—A captive father—A graveyard.

V

AFRICAN MUSIC 72

A taste for comic opera—An organ and an organist—The origin of

music—Musical instruments—The sense of melody—A decomposed

tune—Unfamiliar scales—Mourning—Rhythm—Extremely musical—Three

songs.

VI

PESTS 85

_The Ten Plagues_—Killing flies—The driver ant—Other ants—The

jigger—The sandfly—The mosquito—The centipede—The

cockroach—The white ant—Divers other pests—Internal

parasites—Rats—Snakes.

VII

THE “CANNIBAL” FANG 110

A discriminating palate—Not the worst cannibals—Appearance—The

Negro face and the Greek face—Legs—The wheel—Dress—An

overdressed woman—Food—Cannibalism—An affair of honour—Native

art—Curiosity—Turning them into monkeys.

VIII

MANNERS AND CUSTOMS 125

The native resourceful—Unambitious—Trade—Communism—Boiling the

Bible—A quarrel—Marriage—The dowry—A case of torture—The

head-wife—The tongue a woman’s weapon—Polygamy—_Ogula and her

Ngalo_—_Tragedy_—Dancing—The story-teller—An interesting liar.

IX

FUNERAL CUSTOMS 145

A talking corpse—A world of magic—Sympathy and expectoration—The

dirge—Premature burial—A funeral incident—Death

customs—Conventional mourning—An incident of the

_grass-field_—A horrible burial custom—Two death scenes, a

contrast.

X

THE “DOROTHY” 158

A godsend—A gasoline palaver—Canoeing—The rapids—A pilot—A

sudden stop—Passengers—The mangrove swamp—A wheelman and a

bottle—Pirates—Towing a town—Nkogo—Ndutuma—Ndong Bisia—A

saucepan and a ball of twine.

XI

SCHOOLBOYS 179

Lolo—Unwashed—Washed—A flying bucket—A little friend—The blessed

Melchisedec—A parting—_Ko-ko-ko-ko_—The centre of a fight—The

poetry of soap—A threat of suicide—The eloquence of sounding

brass—A “rotten road”—Savages as soldiers—Ngema’s

father—Across our bow—A tornado.

XII

A SCHOOL 198

Mendam, the _big brother_—Clothing—A day’s program—Cutting

grass—A python—Rations—A collapse—The dormitory—The

dispensary—The jigger-palaver—Not stupid—A head that got

hit—Singing—Interruptions—A picnic—Games—War-dances—Stories—_A

Tug-of-War_—_A Race_—_The Leopard and the Antelope_—An

evangelistic force.

XIII

THE MENTAL DEGRADATION OF FETISHISM 219

The horseshoe—The charm—The fetish—The relic—The fetish-doctor—A

psychological consequence—The African idea of

nature—Incredible beliefs—Confession of a chief’s son—Two

babes—The idea of God—The mental atmosphere—Making the

rainbow—A problem—First lessons—Why the river is crooked—An

old woman’s illustration.

XIV

THE MORAL DEGRADATION OF FETISHISM 233

A lost child—Worship of snakes—Demoralizing factors—A chief’s

fetish—Ingredients—Human sacrifice—A royal death—Wives and

witchcraft—Concluding a war—Destiny—Man’s nature—New

conceptions—A revolt from cannibalism—Heaps of

skulls—Deliverance.

XV

FETISHISM AND THE CROSS 246

A precocious boy—Killed his friend—Essentially moral—Cure for

lying—The ordeal—A trial and death—The sense of

guilt—Expiatory rites—The new ideal—The

atonement—Self-sacrifice and self-assertion—Ndong Koni builds

a church—Onjoga cuts grass—Makuba’s rheumatism—What is a

missionary?—Onjoga’s wife—Children at play.

XVI

MISSIONS AND SOCIAL PROGRESS 264

The _noble savage_—Story of a feud—Society and the

individual—Progressive and

unprogressive—Interdependence—Conquest of

nature—Education—Authority of custom—Work—Trustworthiness—A

civilizing experiment—A communion service—Equality of woman—A

salutation—Attitude towards nature—A thirst for

knowledge—Service—Legitimacy in government—The home—_Thy

kingdom come_.

XVII

THE CRITICS 286

The missionary blamed for everything—Bewildering

inconsistency—Professor Starr—Misfits—Criticism

unjust—Unbelief—Antipathy towards the

native—Cruelty—Vice—Lowering of ideals—Missions sociologically

sound—The let alone policy too late—Miss Kingsley.

XVIII

SAINTS AMONG SAVAGES 310

The best apologetic—Mb’Obam—Sara—A matrimonial bureau—Angona—A

pot-palaver—A narrow escape—Amvama—A clean knife—A bet—Proving

himself—A dowry palaver—Opposing a chief—Robert Boardman—Son

of a “prince”—Blindness—Incident of a pipe—His love of

music—His wife—A near-elopement—Walking in the light.

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