Chapter 37

A BABEL OF TONGUES—THE GERMAN UMWALZUNGSMÄNNER—THE FRENCH RED

MONTAGNARDS—THE ITALIAN FUORUSCITI IN GENEVA—MAZZINI, GARIBALDI, AND

ORSINI—THE ROMAN AND THE GERMAN TRADITIONS—A TRIP ON ‘THE PRINCE RADETSKY’

There was a time when in a fit of irritation and bitter mirth I thought

of writing a pamphlet in the style of Grandville’s[31] Illustrations:

_Les réfugiés peints par eux-mêmes_. I am glad I did not do it. Now that

I look at it more calmly, I am less moved to laughter and indignation.

Besides, exile both lasts too long and weighs too heavily on men....

Nevertheless, I do say even now that exile, not undertaken with any

definite object, but forced upon men by the triumph of the opposing

party, checks development and draws men away from the activities of life

into the domain of fantasy. Leaving their native land with concealed

anger, with the continual thought of going back to it on the morrow, men

make no advance, but are continually thrown back upon the past; hope

hinders them from settling down and undertaking any permanent work;

irritation and trivial but exasperated disputes prevent their escaping

from the familiar circle of questions, thoughts, and memories which make

up an oppressive binding tradition. Men in general, and especially men

in an exceptional position, have such a passion for formalism, for the

coterie spirit, for looking their part, that they immediately fall into

a groove and acquire a doctrinaire stamp.

All exiles, cut off from the living environment to which they have

belonged, shut their eyes to avoid seeing bitter truths, and grow more

and more used to a narrow, fantastic circle consisting of inert memories

and hopes that will never be realised.

Add to this, aloofness from all who are not exiles and an element of

exasperation, suspicion, exclusiveness, and jealousy, and this new

stiff-necked Israel becomes perfectly comprehensible.

The exiles of 1849 did not yet believe in the permanence of their

enemy’s triumph; the intoxication of their recent successes had not

yet passed off, the applause and songs of the victorious people were

still ringing in their ears. They firmly believed that their defeat was

a momentary reverse, and did not unpack their trunks. Meanwhile Paris

was under police supervision, Rome was falling under the onslaught of

the French, the brother of the Prussian King was brutally triumphing in

Baden,[32] while Paskevitch in the Russian style had outwitted Görgei[33]

in Hungary by bribes and promises. Geneva was full to overflowing with

refugees; it became the Coblenz[34] of the revolution of 1848. There

were Italians from all parts; Frenchmen escaping from the Bauchart[35]

inquiry and from the Versailles trial; Baden insurgents, who entered

Geneva marching in regular formation with their officers and with Gustav

Struve; men who had taken part in the rising of Vienna; Bohemians; Poles

from Posen and Galicia. All these people were crowded together between

the Hôtel de Bergues and the Post Office Café. The more sensible of

them began to suspect that this exile would not soon be over, talked of

America, and went away. It was quite the opposite with the majority, and

especially with the French, who, true to their temperament, were in daily

expectation of the death of Napoleon and the birth of a republic—some

looking for a republic both democratic and socialistic, others for one

that should be democratic and not at all socialistic.

A few days after my arrival, as I was walking in Les Paquis, I met an

elderly gentleman who looked like a Russian village priest, wearing a low

wide-brimmed hat and a _black_ white coat, and walking along with a sort

of priestly unction; beside him stepped a man of terrific proportions,

who looked as though he had been casually put together of immense blocks

of human flesh. F. Kapp,[36] the young writer, was with me.

‘Don’t you know them?’ he asked me.

‘No; but, if I’m not mistaken, it must be Lot or Noah out for a walk

with Adam, who has put on a coat several sizes too large instead of his

fig-leaves.’

‘They are Struve and Heinzen,’ he answered, laughing: ‘would you like to

make their acquaintance?’

‘Very much.’ He introduced me.

The conversation was trivial. Struve was on his way home, and invited us

to come in; we went with him. His small lodging was crowded with exiles

from Baden. A tall woman, from a distance very good-looking, with a mass

of luxuriant hair flowing loose in an original fashion, was sitting in

the midst of them; this was his wife, the celebrated Amalie Struve.

Struve’s face made a strange impression on me from the very first; it

expressed that moral rigidity which superstitious bigotry gives to

fanatics and dissenters. Looking at his strong, narrow forehead, at the

untroubled expression of his eyes, at his uncombed beard, his slightly

grizzled hair, and his whole figure, I could have fancied that this

was either a fanatical pastor of the army of Gustavus Adolphus who

had forgotten to die, or a Taborite[37] preaching repentance and the

sacrament under two aspects. There was a surly coarseness about the

appearance of Heinzen,[38] that Sobakevitch of the German revolution;

full-blooded and clumsy, he kept looking angrily from under his brows,

and was sparing of words. He wrote later on that it would be sufficient

to _massacre_ two millions of the inhabitants of the globe and the cause

of revolution would go swimmingly. Anybody who had once seen him would

not be surprised at his writing this.

I cannot refrain from relating an extremely funny incident which occurred

to me in connection with this cannibalistic project. There was, and

indeed still is, living in Geneva a Dr. R., one of the most good-natured

men in the world and one of the most constant and platonic lovers of the

revolution, the friend of all the refugees; he doctored them gratis as

well as giving them food and drink. However early one might arrive at the

Café de la Poste, the doctor would already be there and already reading

his third or fourth newspaper; he would beckon one mysteriously and

murmur in one’s ear: ‘I fancy it will be a hot day in Paris to-day.’ ‘Why

so?’ ‘I can’t tell you from whom I heard it, but it was a man in close

relations with Ledru-Rollin; he was here on his way through....’ ‘Why,

you were expecting something yesterday and the day before yesterday too,

weren’t you, Doctor?’ ‘Well, what of that? _Stadt Rom war nicht in einem

Tage gebaut._’

So it was to him as a friend of Heinzen’s that I appealed in the very

same café when the latter published his philanthropic programme. ‘Why,’

I said to him, ‘does your friend write such pernicious nonsense? The

reaction is making an outcry, and indeed it has every reason to: he’s a

regular Marat in a German setting! And how can one ask for two million

heads?’

R. was confused, but did not like to give his friend away. ‘Listen,’

he said at last: ‘you have lost sight of one fact, perhaps: Heinzen is

speaking of the whole human race; in that number there would be at least

_two hundred thousand Chinese_.’ ‘Oh, well, that’s a different matter;

why spare them?’ I answered; and for long afterwards I could never think

of this reassuring fact without bursting into laughter.

Two days after our meeting in Les Paquis, the _garçon_ of the Hôtel de

Bergues, where I was staying, ran up to my room and announced with an air

of importance: ‘General Struve and his adjutants.’ I imagined either

that some one had sent the _garçon_ up as a joke, or that he had made

some blunder; but the door opened and—

‘Mit bedächtigem Schritt

Gustav Struve tritt ...’

and with him four gentlemen: two were in the military uniform worn in

those days by German students, and had in addition red armlets adorned

with various emblems. Struve presented his suite to me, democratically

referring to them as ‘brothers in exile.’ I learnt with delight that

one of them, a young man of twenty, who looked like a _Bursch_ who had

recently emerged from the ‘_fuchs_’[39] stage, was now successfully

filling the post of minister of home affairs _per interim_.

Struve at once began instructing me in his theory of the seven scourges,

_die sieben Geissel_—Popes, priests, kings, soldiers, bankers, etc.—and

of the establishment of some new democratic and revolutionary religion.

I observed that if it depended upon us whether to establish a new

religion or not, it would be better not to establish any, but to leave

it to the will of God, as, from the very nature of the case, it was more

His concern. We argued. Struve made some remark about the _Weltseele_;

I observed that in spite of Schelling’s having so clearly defined the

world-soul by calling it _das Schwebende_, I found great difficulty in

grasping it.

He jumped up from his chair and, coming as close to me as possible, with

the words, ‘Excuse me, allow me,’ began tapping my head with his fingers,

and pressing it with them, as though my skull had been composed of the

keys of a concertina. ‘Yes, indeed,’ he commented, addressing his four

brothers in exile, ‘_Bürger Herzen hat kein, aber auch gar kein Organ

der Venerazion!_’ All were satisfied with the lack of the ‘bump of

reverence’ in me, and I was equally so.

Hereupon he informed me that he was a great phrenologist, and had not

only written a book on Halle’s system but had even selected his Amalie

from it, after first feeling her skull. He assured me that the bump of

the passions was completely absent in her, and that the back part of

the skull where they are located was almost flat. On these grounds,

sufficient for a divorce, he married her.

Struve was a very queer fish: he ate nothing but Lenten food, with

the addition of milk, drank no wine, and kept his Amalie on a similar

diet. This was not enough for him: he went every day to bathe with her

in the Arve, the water of which scarcely reaches the temperature of

eight degrees in the middle of summer, as it flows so swiftly from the

mountains that it has not time to get warm.

Later on it often happened that we talked of vegetarianism. I raised the

usual objections: the formation of the teeth, the great loss of energy in

the digestion of vegetable fibre, and the lower development of the brain

in herbivorous animals. He listened blandly without losing his temper,

but stuck to his opinion. In conclusion, apparently wishing to impress

me, he said: ‘Do you know that a man always nourished on vegetarian diet

so purifies his body as to be quite free from smell after death?’ ‘That’s

very pleasant,’ I replied; ‘but what advantage will that be to me? I

won’t be sniffing myself after death.’ Struve did not even smile, but

said to me with serene conviction: ‘You will speak very differently one

day!’ ‘When my bump of reverence develops,’ I added.

At the end of 1849 Struve sent me the calendar he had newly devised for

‘free’ Germany. The days, the months, everything had been translated into

an ancient German jargon difficult to understand; instead of saints’

days, every day was dedicated to the memory of two celebrities—for

instance, to Washington and Lafayette; but, on the other hand, every

tenth day was devoted to the memory of the enemies of mankind—for

instance, Nicholas and Metternich. The holidays were the days when

particularly great men such as Luther and Columbus were commemorated.

In this calendar Struve had the gallantry to replace Christmas on the

twenty-fifth of December by the festival of Amalie!

Meeting me one day in the street, he said among other things that we

ought to publish in Geneva a journal common to all the exiles, in

three languages, which would carry on the struggle against the ‘seven

scourges’ and maintain the ‘sacred fire’ of the peoples, now crushed by

the reaction. I answered that it would, of course, be a very good thing.

The publishing of papers was at that time an epidemic disease: every

two or three weeks new schemes were started, specimen copies appeared,

prospectuses were sent about, then two or three numbers would come

out—and would all disappear, leaving no trace. People who were incapable

of anything considered themselves competent to edit a paper, scraped

together a hundred francs or so, and spent them on the first and last

number. So I was not in the least surprised at Struve’s intention; but I

was very much surprised by his calling upon me at seven o’clock the next

morning. I thought some misfortune had happened, but Struve, after calmly

settling himself in a chair, brought a sheet of paper out of his pocket

and, preparing to read it, said: ‘_Bürger_, since we agreed yesterday as

to the necessity of publishing a journal, I have come to read you the

prospectus of it.’

When he had read it he informed me that he was going to Mazzini and

many others to invite them to meet at Heinzen’s for deliberation on the

subject. I, too, went to Heinzen’s: he was sitting with a ferocious air

at the table, holding a manuscript in one gigantic paw; the other he

held out to me, muttering thickly, ‘_Bürger, platz!_’

Some eight persons, French and German, were present. Some

ex-representative of the people in the French National Assembly was

making an estimate of the cost, and writing something in slanting lines.

When Mazzini arrived, Struve proposed reading the prospectus that had

been written by Heinzen. Heinzen cleared his throat and began reading it

in German, although the only language common to all was French.

Since they had not the faintest shadow of a new idea, the prospectus was

only the thousandth variation of those democratic lucubrations which are

the same sort of rhetorical exercise on revolutionary texts as church

sermons are on those of the Bible. Indirectly guarding himself from a

charge of socialism, Heinzen said that the democratic republic would of

itself solve the economic question to the general satisfaction. The man

who did not flinch at the demand for two million heads was afraid that

his organ would be considered communistic.

I urged some objection to this when the reading was finished, but from

his abrupt replies, from Struve’s intervention, and from the gestures of

the French deputy, I perceived that we had been invited to the council

to accept Heinzen’s and Struve’s prospectus, not to deliberate upon it;

it was in strict harmony with the theory held by Elpidifor Antiohovitch

Zurov, the military governor of Novgorod.[40]

Mazzini listened with a melancholy air, but agreed, and was almost the

first to subscribe for two or three shares. ‘_Si omnes consentiunt ego

non dissentio_,’ I thought _à la_ Schufterle in Schiller’s _Robbers_, and

I too subscribed.

But the subscribers appeared to be few in number; however often the

French deputy added and subtracted, the sum subscribed was insufficient.

‘Gentlemen,’ said Mazzini, ‘I have thought of a way of getting over the

difficulty: publish the journal at first only in French and German; as

for the Italian translation, I shall put all articles of _interest_ in my

_Italia del Popolo_—that will save you one-third of the expenditure.’

‘To be sure! what could be better!’ Mazzini’s proposition was accepted

by all. He grew a little more cheerful. I was awfully amused, and very

eager to show him that I had seen the trick he had played. I went up to

him and, watching for a moment when no one was near us, I said: ‘How

capitally you got out of the journal!’

‘Well,’ he observed, ‘an Italian part is really superfluous, you know.’

‘So are the two others!’ I added.

A smile glided over his face and vanished as quickly as though it had

never been there.

That was the second time of my seeing him. Mazzini, who knew of my stay

in Rome, wanted to make my acquaintance. One morning I went with L. Spini

to see him in Les Paquis.

When we went in Mazzini was sitting dejectedly at the table listening

to what was being said by a rather tall, graceful, and handsome young

man with fair hair. This was the daring companion-in-arms of Garibaldi,

the defender of Vascello, the leader of the Roman legionaries, Giacomo

Medici. Another young man with an expression of melancholy preoccupation

sat plunged in thought, paying no attention to what was going

forward—this was Mazzini’s colleague in the triumvirate, Marco Aurelio

Saffi.

Mazzini got up and, looking me straight in the face with his piercing

eyes, held out both hands in a friendly way. Even in Italy a head so

severely classical, so elegant in its gravity, is rarely to be met with.

At moments the expression of his face was harshly austere, but it quickly

grew soft and serene. An active, concentrated intelligence sparkled in

his melancholy eyes; there was an infinity of persistence and strength

of will in them and in the lines on his brow. All his features showed

traces of long years of anxiety, of sleepless nights, of past storms,

of powerful passions, or rather of one powerful passion, and also some

element of fanaticism—perhaps of asceticism.

Mazzini is very simple and amiable in his manner, but the habit of

rule is apparent, especially in argument; he can scarcely conceal his

annoyance at contradiction, and sometimes does not conceal it. He

knows his strength, and genuinely despises all the external trappings

of dictatorial authority. His popularity was at that time immense. In

his little room, with the everlasting cigar in his mouth, Mazzini at

Geneva, like the Pope in the old days at Avignon, held in his hands the

threads that like a spiritual telegraph system brought him into living

communication with the whole peninsula. He knew every heart-throb of his

party, felt the slightest tremor in it, promptly responded to everything,

and with amazing tirelessness gave general guidance to everything and

every one.

A fanatic and at the same time an organiser, he covered Italy with a

network of secret societies connected together and devoted to one object.

These societies branched off into arteries that defied detection, split

up, grew smaller and smaller, and vanished in the Apennines and the

Alps, in the regal palazzi of aristocrats and the dark alleys of Italian

towns into which no police can penetrate. Village priests, diligence

conductors, the _principe_ of Lombardy, smugglers, innkeepers, women,

bandits, all were made use of, all were links in the chain that was

bound to him and that was subject to him. From the times of Menotti[41]

and the brothers Bandiera,[42] enthusiastic youths, vigorous men of the

people, vigorous aristocrats, sometimes old men, come forward in constant

succession ... and follow the lead of Mazzini, consecrated by the elder

Buonarotti, the comrade and friend of Gracchus Babeuf,[43] and advance

to the unequal combat, disdainful of chains and the block, and sometimes

at the point of death adding to the shout of ‘_Viva l’Italia!_’ that of

‘_Viva Mazzini!_’

There has never been such a revolutionary organisation anywhere, and it

would hardly be possible anywhere but in Italy, unless in Spain. Now

it has lost its old unity and old strength, it is exhausted by the ten

years of martyrdom, it is worn out by loss of blood and the anguish of

suspense, its thought has grown older; and yet what outbursts, what

heroic examples, there are still: Pianori, Orsini, Pisacane!

I do not think that by the death of one man a country could be raised

from such degradation as France has fallen into now.[44]

I do not justify the plan on which Pisacane made his attempt;[45] it

seemed to me as ill-timed as the two previous risings in Milan: but

that is not the point. I only mean to speak here of the way in which it

was actually carried out. These men overwhelm one with the grandeur of

their tragic poetry, their terrible strength, and silence all blame and

criticism. I know no instance of greater heroism, among either the Greeks

or the Romans, among the martyrs of Christianity or of the Reformation!

A handful of vigorous men sail to the luckless shore of Naples, bearing

a challenge, an example, a living witness that all is not yet dead in

the people. The handsome young leader is the first to fall, with the

flag in his hand—and after him the rest fall, or worse still are caught

in the clutches of the Bourbon. The death of Pisacane and the death of

Orsini were like two fearful thunderclaps in a sultry night. Latin Europe

shuddered—the wild boar,[46] terrified, retreated to Caserta and hid

himself in his lair.

Pale with horror, the man who was driving France in her funeral hearse to

the graveyard trembled in his seat.

Pisacane’s attempt might well be described among the people in these

poetical lines:—[47]

...

Sceser con l’armi, e a noi non fecer guerra,

Ma s’inchinaron per bacciar la terra:

Ad uno ad uno li gardai nel viso:

Tutti aveano una lagrima e un sorriso,

Li disser ladri usciti dalle tane,

Ma non portaron via nemmeno un pane;

E li sentii mandare un solo grido:

Siam venuti a morir pel nostro lido—

Eran trecento, eran giovani e forti:

E sono morti!

Con gli occhi azzuri, e coi capelli d’oro

Un giovin camminava innanzi a loro.

Mi feci ardita, e, presol per la mano,

Gli chiesi: Dove vai, bel capitano?

Guardommi e mi rispose: O mia sorella,

Vado a morir per la mia patria bella!

Io mi sentii tremare tutto il core;

Nè potei dirgli: V’ aiuti ’l Signore;

Eran trecento, eran giovani e forti:

E sono morti!

...

(L. Mercantini, _La Spigolatrice di Sapri_.)

In 1849 Mazzini was a power, and it was not for nothing that the

governments feared him; his star was then in its full brilliance—but

it was already setting. It might have maintained itself for long years

yet, growing paler little by little; but after repeated failures and

desperate efforts, it began to decline rapidly.

Some of Mazzini’s friends allied themselves with Piedmont, others with

Napoleon. Mazzini went his revolutionary bypath, the party split up

into factions, the federal character of the Italians showed itself more

conspicuously.

Garibaldi himself, in spite of his own feelings, pronounced a severe

criticism on Mazzini, and, influenced by the enemies of the latter,

published a letter in which he indirectly blamed him.

* * * * *

This is what has turned Mazzini grey and made him old, this is what has

given a look of bitter intolerance, even exasperation, to his face, to

his glance. But such men do not give in, do not yield; the worse things

go with them, the higher they hold the flag. If Mazzini loses friends

and money, and barely escapes one day from chains and the gallows, on

the next he takes his stand more obstinately and resolutely than ever,

collects fresh money, seeks fresh friends, denies himself everything,

even sleep and food, ponders whole nights over new plans and every time

actually creates them, flings himself again into the conflict, and, again

beaten, sets to work once more with feverish ardour.

In this unyielding steadiness, in this faith which runs far ahead of

facts, in this inexhaustible activity which failure only incites and

provokes to fresh effort, there is something of grandeur, and, if you

like, something of madness. Often it is just that grain of madness which

is the essential condition of success. It acts on the people’s nerves and

carries them away. A great man acting directly is bound to be a great

maniac, especially with such enthusiastic people as the Italians, who,

moreover, preserve the religious conception of nationality. Only the

sequel can show whether Mazzini has lost his magnetic power over the

Italian masses through his ill-timed and unsuccessful attempts. It is not

reason, it is not logic that leads nations, but faith, love, and hatred.

The Italian refugees were not superior to the other refugees either in

talent or education. The greater number of them knew nothing, indeed,

but their own poets and their own history. But they were free from the

stereotyped, commonplace stamp of the rank and file of French democrats

(who argue, declaim, and feel exactly the same thing in herds, all going

into ecstasies at once), as well as from the uncouth, coarse, pothouse

character typical of the German refugees. The ordinary French democrat is

a bourgeois _in spe_; the German revolutionary, like the German _Bursch_,

is just the philistine over again in a different stage of development.

The Italians are more original, more individual.

The French are turned out ready-made by thousands on the same pattern.

The present government was not originally responsible for this

curtailment of individuality, but it has grasped the secret of it.

Absolutely in the French spirit, it has organised public education—that

is, all education, for there is no home education in France. In every

town of the empire the same thing is being taught on the same day, at the

same hour, from the same books. At all examinations the same questions

are asked, the same examples set; teachers who make any departure from

the text, or make any change in the syllabus, are promptly removed.

This soulless uniformity of education has only put into a compulsory

hereditary form what existed unformulated in men’s minds already.

It is the conventional democratic notion of equality applied to

intellectual development. There is nothing of the sort in Italy. The

Italian, a federalist and an artist by temperament, flies with horror

from every sort of barrack discipline, uniformity and geometrical

regularity. The Frenchman is innately a soldier; he loves discipline,

command, the uniform; he loves to inspire terror. The Italian, if it

comes to that, is rather a bandit than a soldier, and by that I do not

mean anything at all to his discredit. He prefers at the risk of capital

punishment to kill his enemy at his own impulse rather than to kill

by order; but it is without throwing any responsibility on others. He

prefers a meagre livelihood in the mountains, concealing smugglers, to

honoured service in the gendarmerie, discovering them.

The educated Italian, like us, is developed of his own accord by life,

by his passions, by the books that have happened to come into his hands,

and so attains to understanding of one sort or another. This is why there

are gaps, discords, both in his culture and in ours. Our culture, like

his, is in many respects inferior to the specialised finish of the French

and the theoretical learning of the Germans; but, on the other hand, the

colour is more brilliant both in us and in the Italians.

We even have the same defects as they. The Italian has the same tendency

to laziness as we: he does not think of work as an enjoyment; he does not

like the worry of it, the weariness of it, the lack of leisure. Industry

in Italy is almost as backward as among us; the Italians, like us, have

treasures lying under their feet and they do not dig them up. Manners in

Italy have not been influenced by the modern bourgeois tendency to the

same degree as in France and in England.

The history of the Italian petty-bourgeois is quite unlike the

development of the bourgeoisie in France and in England. The wealthy

bourgeois, the descendants _del popolo grasso_, have more than once

successfully rivalled the feudal aristocracy, have been rulers of cities,

and therefore they have been not further from but nearer to the plebeians

and _contadini_ than the rapidly enriched vulgarians of other lands. The

bourgeoisie in the French sense is represented in Italy by a special

class which has come into existence since the first revolution, and which

might be called, as in geology, the Piedmont strata. It is distinguished

in Italy as in the whole continent of Europe by being invariably

liberal in _many_ questions, though in _all_ afraid of the people and

of indiscreet talk about labour and wages, and, what is more, by always

giving way to the enemy above and never to their followers below.

The Italian exiles were drawn from every possible stratum of society.

There were all sorts to be found about Mazzini, from the old names

that occur in the chronicles of Guicciardini and Muratori to which the

people’s ear has been accustomed for centuries, such as Litti, Borromeo,

del Verme, Belgiojoso, Nani, Visconti, to some half-savage runaway Romeo

from the Abruzzi with his dark olive-coloured face and irrepressible

rashness! Here were clericals too, like Sirtori, the heroic priest who,

at the first firing in Venice, tucked up his cassock, and all through

the siege and defence of Marghera fought, gun in hand, in the foremost

ranks under a shower of bullets; here, too, were the brilliant staff

of Neapolitan officers, such as Pisacane, Cosenz, and the brothers

Mezzocappa. Here, too, were peasants from Trasteverina, faithful and

hard as steel in privation, stern, austere, dumb in calamity, modest

and indomitable like Pianori; and beside them, Tuscans, effeminate even

in pronunciation, but ready for the struggle too. Lastly, there were

Garibaldi, a figure taken straight out of Cornelius Nepos, with the

simplicity of a child and the daring of a lion; and Felice Orsini, whose

beautiful head has so lately rolled from the steps of the scaffold.

But at their names I must pause.

I made Garibaldi’s acquaintance in 1854 when he sailed from South America

as the captain of a ship and stayed in the West India Docks; I went to

see him accompanied by one of his comrades in the Roman war, and by

Orsini. Garibaldi, in a thick, light overcoat, with a bright-coloured

scarf around his neck and a cap on his head, struck me as more of

a genuine sailor than as the glorious leader of the Roman legion,

statuettes of whom in fantastic costume were being sold all over the

world. The good-natured simplicity of his manner, the absence of all

affectation, the cordiality with which he received us, all disposed me in

his favour. His crew consisted almost entirely of Italians; he was their

head and chief, and I am sure he was a strict one, but they all looked

happily and affectionately at him; they were proud of their captain.

Garibaldi gave us lunch in his cabin, regaling us with specially prepared

oysters from South America, dried fruits, port—when suddenly he leaped

up, saying, ‘Wait a bit! We will drink a different wine with you,’ and

ran up on deck; then a sailor brought in a bottle; Garibaldi looked at it

with a smile and filled our glasses.... One might have expected anything

from a man who had crossed the ocean, but it was nothing more nor less

than a bottle with the label of his native town Nice, which he had

brought with him to London from America.

Meanwhile, in his simple and unceremonious talk one was more and more

conscious of the presence of strength; without phrases and commonplaces,

the people’s leader, who had amazed all old soldiers by his valour, was

revealed, and it was easy to recognise in the ship-captain the wounded

lion who, fighting at every step, retreated after the taking of Rome

and, as he lost his followers, gathered together again at San Marino,

at Ravenna, in Lombardy, in the Tyrol, in Tessino, soldiers, peasants,

bandits, any one of any sort to strike back at the foe—and all this

beside the body of his wife, who had succumbed to the hardships and

privations of the march.

In 1854 his opinions were widely divergent from those of Mazzini,

although he was on good terms with him. He told him in my presence that

Piedmont ought not to be irritated, that the chief aim now was to shake

off the Austrian yoke, and he greatly doubted whether Italy was as ready

for union and a republic as Mazzini imagined. He was entirely opposed to

all projects and attempts at insurrection.

When he was about to sail for coal to Newcastle-on-Tyne and was from

there setting off to the Mediterranean, I told him how immensely I liked

his seafaring life, and that of all the exiles he was the one who had

chosen the better part.

‘And who forbids them doing the same?’ he replied with warmth. ‘This

was my cherished dream; you may laugh at it if you like, but I cherish

it still. I am known in America: I could have three or four such boats

under my command. I could take all the refugees on them: the sailors,

the lieutenants, the workmen, the cooks, might all be exiles. What can

they do now in Europe? Grow used to slavery and be false to themselves,

or go begging in England. Settling in America is worse still—that’s the

end, that’s the country “of forgetting the fatherland”: it is a new

fatherland, there are new interests, everything is different; men who

have settled in America fall out of the ranks. What is better than my

idea?’ (his face beamed): ‘what could be better than gathering together

round a few masts and floating over the ocean, hardening ourselves in the

rough life of sailors, in conflict with the elements and with danger?

A floating revolution, ready to land on any shore, independent and

unassailable!’

At that moment he seemed to me a hero of antiquity, a figure out of the

_Æneid_ ... who—had he lived in other ages—would have had his legend, his

‘Arma virumque cano!’

Orsini was a man of quite a different type. He showed to the full his

wild strength and terrific energy on the 14th of January 1858, in the

rue Lepelletier; they won him a great name in history, and brought

his head under the knife of the guillotine at thirty-six. I made the

acquaintance of Orsini at Nice in 1851; at times we were even very

intimate, then drifted apart, came together again, and in the end ‘a

grey cat ran between us’ in 1856, and, though we were reconciled, we

never felt the same to each other again. Such types as Orsini are only

developed in Italy; on the other hand, they appear there at all times,

in all ages: they are conspirators and artists, martyrs and adventurers,

patriots, _condottiere_, Teverina and Rienzi, anything you like, but

not vulgar, petty, commonplace, bourgeois. Such characters stand out

vividly in the chronicles of every Italian city. They amaze us by their

goodness, they amaze us by their wickedness, and they impress us by the

strength of their passions and by the strength of their will. The yeast

of restlessness is fermenting in them from early years—they must have

danger, they must have laurels, glory, fame; they are purely southern

natures, with hot blood in their veins, with passions almost beyond

our understanding, ready for any privation, for any sacrifice, from a

sort of thirst of enjoyment. Self-denial and devotion in them go hand

in hand with revengefulness and intolerance; they are simple in many

ways and cunning in many ways. Reckless as to the means they use, they

are reckless, too, of danger; descendants of the Roman patricians and

children in Christ of the Jesuit fathers, reared on classic memories

and the traditions of mediæval turmoils, a mass of ancient virtues and

catholic vices are fermenting in their souls. They set no value on their

own lives nor on the lives of others either; their terrific persistence

is on a level with Anglo-Saxon obstinacy. On the one hand there is a

naïve love of the external, an _amour propre_ bordering on vanity, a

voluptuous desire to have their fill of applause, of glory; on the other,

all the Roman heroism in face of privation and death.

People of this energy can only be checked by the guillotine. Scarcely do

they escape from the gendarmes of Sardinia before they begin hatching

plots in the very claws of the Austrian hawk; and the day after a

miraculous rescue from the dungeons of Mantua they begin, with hands

still bleeding from the leap to freedom, to sketch a plan of grenades,

then, face to face with danger, fling them under a carriage. In the hour

of failure they rise to titanic heights, and by their death deal a blow

more powerful than a bursting grenade....

As a young man Orsini had fallen into the hands of the secret police

of Pope Gregory XIV.; he was condemned for taking part in the movement

in Rome and sentenced to the galleys, and remained in prison till the

amnesty of Pius IX. From this life with smugglers, with bravoes, with

survivors of the Carbonari, he gained a temper of iron and an immense

knowledge of the national spirit. From these men, who were daily in

conflict with the society which oppressed them, he learnt the art of

self-control, the art of being silent not only before a judge but even

with his friends.

Men of Orsini’s stamp have a great influence on others: people are

attracted by their reserved character and at the same time are not at

home with them; one looks at them with the nervous pleasure, mingled with

uneasiness, with which one admires the graceful movements and velvety

gambols of a panther. They are children, but not good children. Not only

Dante’s hell is ‘paved’ with them, but all the later centuries nurtured

on his sinister poetry and the malignant wisdom of Machiavelli are full

of them. Mazzini, too, belongs to their family, in the way that Cosimo

Medici did; Orsini, in the way that Giovanni Procida did. One cannot even

exclude from them the great ‘adventurer of the sea,’ Columbus, nor the

still greater ‘bandit’ of later days, Napoleon Buonaparte.

Orsini was strikingly handsome; his whole appearance, elegant and

graceful, could not but attract attention; he was quiet, spoke little,

gesticulated less than his fellow-countrymen, and never raised his voice.

The long black beard, as he wore it in Italy, made him look like some

young Etruscan priest. His whole head was extraordinarily beautiful, only

a little marred by the irregular line of the nose.[48] And all the same

there was something in Orsini’s features, in his eyes, in his frequent

smile and his gentle voice, that checked intimacy. It was evident that

he was holding himself in, that he never fully let himself go and was

wonderfully self-controlled; it was evident that not one word fell from

those smiling lips without intention, that there were depths behind those

inwardly shining eyes, that, where we should hesitate and step back,

he would smile and without a change of face or tone of voice, would go

forward, remorseless and undoubting.

In the spring of 1852 Orsini was expecting very important news in

regard to his family affairs: he was worried at not getting a letter;

he told me so several times, and I knew in what anxiety he was living.

At dinner-time one day, when two or three outsiders were present, the

postman came into the entry: Orsini sent to ask if there was a letter for

him; it appeared that there was; he glanced at it, put it in his pocket,

and went on with the conversation. An hour and a half later, when we were

alone with him, Orsini said to us: ‘Well, thank God, at last I have

got the answer, and it is all very good news.’ We, knowing that he was

expecting a letter, had not guessed that this was it, with so unconcerned

an air had he opened it and then put it into his pocket. A man like that

is a born conspirator. And he was one, indeed, all his life.

And what was accomplished by him with his energy, by Garibaldi with

his daring, by Pianori with his revolver, by Pisacane and the other

martyrs whose blood is not yet dry? Italy will be delivered from the

Austrians, if at all, by Piedmont; as it was from the Bourbon of

Naples by fat Murat, both under the protection of a Buonaparte. Oh,

_divina Commedia_?—or simply _Commedia_! in the sense in which Pope

Chiaramonti[49] said it to Napoleon in Fontainebleau....

I became very intimate later on with the two men of whom I spoke when

describing my first meeting with Mazzini.

Medici was a Lombard. In his early youth, unhappy at the hopeless

position of Italy, he went to Spain, afterwards to Monte Video and to

Mexico; he served in the ranks of the Cristinos[50]—was, I believe, a

captain—and at last returned to his native place after the election

of Mastai Ferretti.[51] Italy was showing signs of life; Medici threw

himself into the movement. He performed miracles of valour at the head

of the Roman legionaries during the siege; but the French hordes entered

Rome all the same over the bodies of many noble victims—over the dead

body of Laviron, who, as though to atone for the crime of his country,

was fighting against it, and fell, struck down by a French bullet at the

gates of Rome.

One would imagine a tribune and warrior like Medici as a _condottiero_

bronzed by gunpowder and the tropical sun, with bold features, with

abrupt words and vigorous gesticulation. Pale, fair, with soft features,

eyes full of gentleness, and elegant manners, Medici was more like a man

who has spent his whole life in the society of ladies than a guerilla

chieftain and an agitator. A poet, a dreamer, at that time passionately

in love—everything about him was elegant and attractive.

The few weeks spent with him at Geneva did me a great deal of good. It

was the very blackest period for me, in 1852, six weeks after the burial

of my wife. I was utterly shattered: every signpost, every guiding clue

was lost; I do not know whether I was even then like one demented, as

Orsini said in his diary, but I was certainly in a bad way. Medici was

sorry for me; he did not say so, but late in the evening, at twelve

o’clock, he sometimes knocked at my door and came in to talk with me,

sitting on my bed. (Once when we were chatting like this we caught a

scorpion on the quilt.) He would sometimes knock, too, between six

and seven in the morning, saying, ‘It’s a lovely day, let us go to

Albaro’—that was where the Spanish beauty lived with whom he was in love.

He had no hope of a speedy change of circumstances; before him was a

prospect of years of exile, everything was growing worse and gloomier;

but there was something youthful, gay, sometimes naïve, about him. I have

noticed the same thing in almost all characters of that mould.

On the day of my departure several friends came to dine with me—Pisacane,

Mordini, and Cosenz.[52] ... ‘Why is it,’ I asked in jest, ‘that our

friend Medici, with his fair hair and northern aristocratic face, reminds

me more of a Vandyck cavalier than of an Italian?’ ‘That’s natural,’

Pisacane went on, still in jest: ‘Giacomo is a Lombard, he is descended

from some German Ritter.’ ‘Fratelli,’ said Medici, ‘there is not a single

drop of German blood in these veins!’ ‘It’s all very well for you to

talk; no, you must bring proofs, explain why you have the features of

a northerner,’ the former went on. ‘Oh, well,’ said Medici, ‘if I have

the features of a northerner, I suppose one of my ancestresses must have

forgotten herself with a Pole!’

Saffi had the purest and most candid nature that I have met in a man not

Russian. The men of Western Europe are often not very intelligent, and

so seem simple and slow-witted; but gifted natures are rarely simple.

In Germans one meets with the disgusting simplicity of immaturity in

practical life; among the English the simplicity that is due to slowness

of mind, to their always seeming half asleep and not being able to wake

up properly. On the other hand, the French are for ever taken up with

_arrière-pensées_, and absorbed in playing their part. Together with

the lack of simplicity they have another defect: they are all very poor

actors, and do not know how to conceal their little game. Affectation,

boasting, and a habit of fine phrases have so entered into their flesh

and blood that men have perished, have paid with their lives, for the

part they were playing, and yet their sacrifice has been all falsity.

These are terrible things, and many are indignant at their being put

into words, but it is still more terrible to deceive oneself. That is

why it is so comforting, so easy to breathe, when in this jostling

crowd of pretentious mediocrities and insufferable, affected, and

self-glorifying talents one meets a strong man free from the slightest

artificiality, free from pretentiousness, free from the vanity that jars

like a knife scratching on a plate. It is like coming out of a stuffy

theatre-corridor lighted by lamps, after an afternoon performance, into

the sunshine—breathing fresh, wholesome air and seeing real lime trees

after cardboard magnolias and sailcloth palm trees. Saffi is one of these

men. Mazzini, old Armellini, and he were the triumvirate in the time of

the Roman Republic. Saffi was in charge of the ministry of home affairs,

and, up to the end of the struggles with the French, was in a foremost

place, and that meant then under the bullets and cannon-shot.

He returned from exile and once more crossed the Apennines; he made this

sacrifice with no faith in it, from a sense of duty, from a feeling of

great devotion, that he might not wound some, that his absence might

not be a bad example. He spent some weeks in Bologna, where he would

have been shot within twenty-four hours if he had been caught; his task

was not simply to conceal himself—he had to act, to prepare for action,

whilst awaiting news from Milan. I never heard from him about the details

of this part of his life. But I did hear about it, a great deal about

it, from a man who might well be a good judge of deeds of daring, and I

heard it at a time when their personal relations were greatly strained.

Orsini had accompanied him across the Apennines; he used to tell me with

enthusiasm of the even, calm serenity, of the light, almost gay, mood of

Saffi at the time when they were going down the mountains on foot; with

the enemy almost within sight, Saffi would carelessly sing folk-songs and

repeat verses of Dante.... I imagine he would have gone to the stake with

the same verses and the same songs on his lips, with no thought at all of

his heroism.

In London, at Mazzini’s or at his friends’, Saffi was mostly silent; he

rarely took part in argument, sometimes grew eager for a minute and then

subsided again. They did not understand him, that was clear to me, _il

ne savait pas se faire valoir_ ... but I never heard from one of the

Italians who fell away from Mazzini one word, one slightest hint, against

Saffi.

One evening an argument sprang up between Mazzini and me about Leopardi.

There are poems of Leopardi with which I am passionately in sympathy.

Much of his work, like Byron’s, is spoilt by theorising, but sometimes a

line of his, like one of Byron’s, stabs, hurts, wrings the heart. There

are such words, such lines, in Lermontov; there are some in the iambics

of Barbier.[53]

Leopardi was the last book read, looked at before her death, by

Natalie....

To men of action, to agitators who move the masses, these bitter

hesitations, these heartrending doubts are incomprehensible. They see in

them nothing but profitless lamentation, nothing but feeble despondency.

Mazzini could not like Leopardi—that I knew beforehand; but he attacked

him with a sort of exasperation. I felt very much vexed; of course,

he was angry with him for being of no use for propaganda. In the same

way Frederick II. might have been angry with him ... I do not know ...

well, for instance, because he would be of no use as a soldier. It is

the revolting desire to restrict the free play of personality, to force

men into categories and ranks—as though political activity were like

serf-labour to which the bailiffs drive weak and strong, willing and

unwilling alike, without consulting their wishes. Mazzini was angry. Half

in jest and half in earnest, I said to him: ‘I believe you have a grudge

against poor Leopardi for not having taken part in the Roman revolution;

but you know he has an excellent reason to urge in his defence—you keep

forgetting it!’

‘What reason?’

‘Why, the fact that he died in 1836.’

Saffi could not resist defending the poet whom he loved even more than I

did and of course understood even more deeply: he analysed him with that

æsthetic, artistic feeling in which a man rather reveals aspects of his

spirit than ‘thinks.’

From this conversation, and from a few more like it, I saw that their

path was not really the same. The thought of one is seeking means,

concentrated on means alone—that is, in a sense running away from doubt;

it thirsts for nothing but practical activity, and that is in a way

indolence. To the other, objective truth is precious and his mind is

working; moreover, to an artistic nature art is precious in itself, apart

from its relation to reality.

Leaving Mazzini, we talked for a long time yet of Leopardi. His poems

were in my pocket; we went into a café and read several of my favourite

ones.

That was sufficient. When men are in sympathy, in the finer shades, they

need not speak of many things—it is clear that they are at one about

vivid colours and deep shadows.

Speaking of Medici, I mentioned a deeply tragic figure, Laviron. My

acquaintance with him was brief; he flashed by me and vanished in a cloud

of blood. Laviron was an engineer and an architect who had completed his

studies at the Polytechnique. I made his acquaintance in the very heyday

of the revolution, between the 24th of February and the 15th of May (he

was then a captain in the National Guard). The vigorous, stern where

necessary, and gay, good-natured Gallo-Frankish blood of the ’nineties

coursed unmixed in his veins. I imagine that the architect Kleber

was of the same stamp when he carried earth in a wheelbarrow with the

young actor Talma clearing a space for the festival of the Federation.

Laviron belonged to the small number of men who were not intoxicated by

the victory of the 24th of February and the proclamation of a republic.

He was at the barricades when they were fighting, and in the Hôtel de

Ville when those who had not fought were electing dictators: when a new

government came into the town-hall like a _deus ex machina_, he loudly

protested against its composition, and, together with a few vigorous men,

asked where it had come from, why it was the government? With perfect

consistency, on the 15th of May Laviron burst with the Parisian populace

into the bourgeois assembly and, with an unsheathed sword in his hand,

forced the president to admit the orators of the people to the tribune.

The cause was lost and Laviron was forced into hiding. He was judged and

condemned _par contumace_. The reaction was drunk with success; it felt

strong for combat and soon strong for conquest—then came the June days,

proscriptions, exiles, the _Blue_ terror. It was just at that period that

I was sitting one evening on the boulevard in front of Tortoni’s in a

crowd of all sorts of people, and, as is always the case in Paris—under

constitutional and unconstitutional monarchy, under the republic and

under the empire—spies were scattered about everywhere amongst them.

Suddenly—I could not believe my eyes—Laviron walked up to me. ‘How are

you?’ he said. ‘What madness is this?’ I answered in an undertone, and

taking him by the arm I walked away from Tortoni’s. ‘How can you expose

yourself like this, and especially just now?’

‘If only you knew how dreary it is to sit shut up in hiding! it’s enough

to drive one crazy.... I sat thinking and thinking, and then went out for

a walk.’

‘But why on the boulevard?’

‘That makes no difference. I am less known here than on the other side

of the Seine, and who would dream of my walking about by Tortoni’s? I am

going away, though....

‘Where?’

‘To Geneva. Everything is so dreary and sickening; we have terrible

calamities ahead of us. Everywhere there is change for the worse, and

pettiness is everywhere and in everything. Well, good-bye—good-bye; and

may our next meeting be a more cheerful one.’

In Geneva Laviron worked as an architect, and was building something when

suddenly war was declared ‘for the Pope’ against Rome. The French made

their treacherous attack on Cività Vecchia, and were approaching Rome.

Laviron threw down his calipers and galloped off to Rome. ‘You need an

engineer, an artilleryman, a soldier. I am a Frenchman. I am ashamed of

France, and go to fight against my countrymen,’ he said to the triumvirs,

and joined the ranks of the Romans as a sacrifice of atonement for his

country. With gloomy daring he headed the advance; when everything was

lost he still fought on, and fell at the gates of Rome, shot down by a

French bullet.

The French newspapers greeted his death with a shower of abuse, claiming

that it was the judgment of God on an infamous traitor to his country!...

When a man who has long been watching black curls and black eyes suddenly

turns to a fair-haired woman with light-coloured eyebrows, pale and

nervous, his eyes always receive a shock and cannot at once get over it.

The difference of which he has not been thinking, which he has forgotten,

produces an involuntary physical effect upon him.

Exactly the same thing happens when one turns quickly from the Italian

circles to the German.

Undoubtedly the Germans are more developed on the theoretical side

than any other people, but they have not gained much by it so far.

From Catholic fanaticism they have passed to the Protestant pietism of

transcendental philosophy and the romance of philology, and are now

gradually making the transition to exact science; the German ‘studies

diligently at all his stages,’ and his whole history is summed up in

that, and he will get marks for it on the Day of Judgment. The common

people of Germany, who have studied less, have suffered a great deal;

they bought the right to Protestantism by the Thirty Years’ War, the

right to an independent existence—that is, to a colourless existence

under the supervision of Russia—by the struggle with Napoleon. The

emancipation in 1814 and 1815 was the complete victory of the reaction;

and when, in place of Jerome Buonaparte, _der Landesvater_ appeared in

a powdered wig and an old-fashioned uniform long laid by, and announced

that next day was fixed, let us say, for the forty-fifth parade (the one

before, the forty-fourth, had taken place before the revolution), then

all the emancipated people felt as though they had suddenly lost touch

with the present and gone back to another age, and every one felt his

head to see if he had grown a pigtail with a ribbon on it. The people

accepted this with simple-hearted foolishness, and sang Körner’s songs.

Science and learning advanced. Greek tragedies were performed in Berlin,

there were dramatic triumphs for Goethe in Weimar.

The most radical men among the Germans remain philistines in their

private life. Bold as they are in logic, they feel no obligation to

be consistent in practice, and fall into glaring contradictions.

The German mind, in matters revolutionary as well as in everything

else, accepts the general idea in its unconditional—of course, that

is, unreal—significance, and is satisfied with working it out

intellectually, imagining that a thing is done when it is understood, and

that the fact as easily follows the thought as the meaning of the fact is

grasped by the consciousness.

The English and the French are full of prejudices, while a German is

free from them; but both French and English are more consistent in their

lives—the rule they follow is perhaps absurd, but it is what they have

accepted. The German accepts nothing except reason and logic, but he is

ruled in many things by _other considerations_—this is selling the soul

for bribes.

The Frenchman is not morally free: though rich in initiative in practical

life, he is poor in abstract thought. He thinks in received conceptions,

in accepted forms; he gives a fashionable cut to commonplace ideas, and

is satisfied with them. It is hard for him to take in anything new,

although he does rush at it. The Frenchman oppresses his family and

believes it is his duty to do so, just as he believes in the ‘Legion

of Honour’ and the authority of the law-courts. The German believes in

nothing, but takes advantage of public prejudices where it suits him. He

is accustomed to trivial comfort, to _Wohlbehagen_, to peace and quiet,

and, as he goes from his study to the _Prunkzimmer_ or his bedroom,

sacrifices his free thought to his dressing-gown, to his peace and

quiet, and to his kitchen. The German is a great Sybarite, though this

characteristic is not noticed in him, because his poor and narrow luxury

and petty mode of life are not very much to look at; but the Eskimo who

is ready to sacrifice everything for fish-fat is as much an epicurean

as Lucullus. Moreover, the German, lymphatic by temperament, soon grows

heavy and sends down a thousand roots into his familiar mode of life;

anything that might disturb him in his habits terrifies his philistine

temper.

All the German revolutionaries are cosmopolitans, _sie haben überwunden

den Standpunkt der Nationalität_, and are filled with the most touchy,

most obstinate patriotism. They are ready to accept an all-world

republic, to abolish the frontiers between states, but Trieste and Danzig

must belong to Germany. The Vienna students were not above setting

off for Lombardy under the command of Radetsky; they even, under the

leadership of some professor, took a cannon, which they presented to

Innsbrück. With this conceited and martial patriotism, Germany has,

from the time of the first revolution and up to this day, looked with

horror to the right and with horror to the left. On this side, France

with standards unfurled is crossing the Rhine; on that side, Russia is

crossing the Niemen, and the people numbering twenty-five millions finds

itself utterly forlorn and deserted, is scolding with terror, full of

hatred from terror, and to comfort itself proving theoretically from

authentic sources that the existence of France is no longer existence,

while the existence of Russia is not yet existence.

The ‘council of war’ assembled in St. Paul’s Church in Frankfort,

and consisting of various worthy doctors, theologians, chemists,

philologists, and professors, _sehr ausgezeichneten in ihrem Fache_,

applauded the Austrian soldiers in Lombardy and oppressed the Poles

in Posen. The very question of Schleswig-Holstein (_stammverwandt!_)

was only a subject of interest to them from the point of view of

‘_Teutschtum_.’ The first free word, uttered after centuries of silence

by the representatives of emancipated Germany, was in opposition to weak

and depressed nationalities. This incapacity for freedom, these awkwardly

revealed inclinations to retain what had been unjustly acquired, provoke

irony: one forgives insolent pretensions only when accompanied by

vigorous actions, and those were absent.

The revolution of 1848 had everywhere the character of hastiness and

precipitate action, but there was scarcely anything absurd about it in

France and in Italy; in Germany, however, everywhere except in Vienna,

it had a farcical character, incomparably more comic than the humour of

Goethe’s wretched farce, _Der Bürgergeneral_.

There was not a town, not a spot in Germany where at the time of the

rising there was not an attempt at a ‘committee of public safety’ with

all its principal characters: with a frigid youth as Saint-Just, with

gloomy terrorists, and a military genius representing Carnot. I knew two

or three Robespierres personally: they always put on clean shirts, washed

their hands, and had clean nails. On the other hand, there were also

dishevelled Collots d’Herbois; and if there happened to be a man in the

club fonder of beer than the rest and more openly given to dangling after

_Stubermädchen_—he was the Danton, _eine schweigende Natur_!

French weaknesses and defects are partly dissipated by their light and

fugitive character. In the German the same defects assume a more solid

and fundamental character, and hence are more striking. One must see for

oneself these German efforts to play _so einen burschikosen Kamin de

Paris_ in politics in order to do them justice. I was always reminded

of the playfulness of a cow when that excellent and respectable animal,

adorned with all the domestic virtues, takes to frisking and galloping in

the meadow, and with a serious face kicks up her two hind legs or gallops

sideways chasing her own tail.

After the Dresden affair, I met in Geneva one of the agitators who had

taken part in it, and began at once questioning him about Bakunin. He

lauded him up to the skies, and began describing how he had himself

commanded a barricade under his instructions. Inflamed by his own

narrative he went on: ‘A revolution is a thunderstorm; in it one must

listen neither to the dictates of the heart nor to considerations of

ordinary justice.... One must oneself have taken part in such events

fully to understand the Montagne of 1794. Only imagine: we suddenly

observe a vague movement in the royalist party, false reports were

intentionally circulated, suspicious-looking men appeared. I reflected

and reflected, and at last resolved to _terrorise_ my street. “_Männer!_”

I said to my company, “under pain of court-martial, which may at once

sentence you to death in case of disobedience, I command you to seize

every one, regardless of sex, age, or calling, who attempts to cross the

barricade, and to bring him under close guard to me.” This was kept up

for more than twenty-four hours. If the _Bürger_ who was brought to me

was a good patriot, I let him go; but if he was a suspicious character,

then I gave the signal to the guard.’

‘And,’ I said with horror, ‘and they?’

‘And they accompanied him home,’ the terrorist replied with pride and

satisfaction.

I will add another anecdote illustrating the character of the German

champions of freedom.

The youth whom I mentioned, when describing my visit to Gustav Struve, as

filling the post of minister of home affairs wrote me a note a few days

later in which he asked me to find him work of some sort. I suggested

that he should copy for the press the manuscript of my _Vom anderen

Ufer_ from the handwriting of Kapp, to whom I had dictated it in German

from the Russian original. The young man accepted the proposal. A few

days later he told me that he was so uncomfortably lodged with several

students that he had neither space nor quiet to work, and asked leave to

copy it in Kapp’s room. Even there the work made little progress. The

minister _per interim_ arrived at eleven o’clock in the morning, lay on

the sofa, smoked cigars, drank beer ... and went off in the evenings to

gatherings and consultations at Struve’s. Kapp, a man of the greatest

delicacy, was ashamed of him. A week or more passed in this way. Kapp

and I said nothing, but the ex-minister broke the silence: he wrote me a

note asking me for _a hundred francs in advance_ for the work. I wrote

him that he was working so slowly that I could not give him such a sum in

advance, but that since he was in great need of money I was sending him

twenty francs, although he had not yet done ten francs’ worth of copying.

In the evening the minister appeared at the gathering at Struve’s and

reported on my anti-civic action and my misuse of my fortune. The

worthy minister considered that socialism consisted not in a social

organisation, but in a senseless partition of senselessly acquired

property!

In spite of the amazing chaos prevailing in Struve’s brains, he did,

being an honest man, consider that I was not altogether to blame, and

that it might be better for the _Bürger und Bruder_ to copy more and ask

less money in advance. He persuaded him not to make a great outcry over

the story.

‘Well, then, I shall send him back the money—_mit Verachtung_,’ said the

minister.

‘What nonsense!’ cried a student. ‘If the _Bruder und Bürger_ does not

care to take the money, I suggest that we spend it on beer and send out

for some at once to drink to the perdition _der Besitzenden_.’

‘Do you agree?’

‘Yes, yes, we all agree—bravo!’

‘We will drink,’ cried the orator, ‘and pledge ourselves not to bow to

the Russian aristocrat who has insulted the _Bruder_.’

‘Yes, yes, we must not bow to him.’

And so they drank the beer and gave up bowing to me.

All these absurd failings, together with the peculiar _Plumpheit_ of

the Germans, jar upon the southern nature of the Italians and excite a

physical, racial hatred in them. The worst of it is that the good side

of the Germans, that is, their philosophical culture, is either of no

interest to the Italian or beyond his ken; while the vulgar, ponderous

side is always conspicuous. The Italian often leads the most frivolous

and idle life, but with a certain artistic, rhythmic grace about it, and

that is why he can least put up with the bear-like joking and clumsy

familiarity of the jovial German.

The Anglo-Germanic race is far coarser than the Franco-Roman. There is

no help for that: it is its physical characteristic; it is absurd to

be angry with it. The time has come to accept once for all that the

different races of mankind, like different species of animals, have their

different characteristics and are not to blame for them. No one is angry

with the bull for not having the beauty of the horse or the swiftness of

the stag; no one reproaches the horse because its flesh is not so good to

eat as that of the ox: all that we can ask of them in the name of animal

brotherhood is to graze peaceably in the same field without kicking

or goring each other. In nature, everything attains to whatever it is

capable of attaining to, is formed as chance determines, and so takes

its generic _pli_: training goes some distance, corrects one thing and

develops another; but to expect beef-steaks from horses, or horses’ paces

from bulls, is nevertheless absurd.

To grasp concretely the difference between the two opposite traditions

of the European races, one has but to glance at the street-boys in Paris

and in London; I take them as an example because they are absolutely

spontaneous in their rudeness.

Look how the Parisian _gamins_ jeer at any queer Englishman, and how the

London street-boys mock at a Frenchman; in this little instance the two

opposite types of two European races are sharply defined. The Parisian

_gamin_ is insolent and persistent, he can be insufferable: but, in the

first place, he is witty, his mischief is limited to jests, and he is as

amusing as he is annoying; and, in the second, there are words at which

he blushes and at once desists, there are words which he never uses; it

is difficult to stop him by roughness, and if the victim lifts his stick

I would not answer for the consequences. It must be noted, too, that the

French boys need something to attract their attention: a red waistcoat

with blue stripes, a brick-coloured coat, a strange-looking muffler, a

flunkey carrying a parrot or a dog, things only done by Englishmen and,

take note, only outside England. To be simply a foreigner is not enough

to make them mock and run after you.

The wit of the London street-boys is simpler. It begins with guffawing at

the sight of a foreigner,[54] if only he has a moustache, a beard, or a

wide-brimmed hat; then they shout some twenty times: ‘_French pig! French

dog!_’ If the foreigner turns to them with some reply, the neighings and

bleatings are redoubled; if he walks away, the boys run after him—then

all that is left is the _ultima ratio_ of lifting a stick, and sometimes

bringing it down on one of them. After that the boys run away full speed,

dropping oaths and sometimes throwing mud or a stone from a distance.

In France, a grown-up workman, shopman, or woman selling wares in the

street never takes part with the _gamins_ in the pranks they play upon

foreigners; in London, all the dirty women, all the grown-up shopmen

grunt like pigs and abet the boys.

In France there is one shield which at once checks the most persistent

boy—that is, poverty. In the country that knows no word more insulting

than the word _beggar_, the foreigner is the more persecuted the poorer

and more defenceless he is. One Italian refugee, who had once been an

officer in the Austrian cavalry and had left his country after the war,

completely destitute, when winter came, wore his greatcoat of a military

officer. This excited such a sensation in the market-place through which

he had to pass every day, that the shouts of ‘Who’s your tailor?’ roars

of laughter, and finally tugging at his collar, forced the Italian at

last to give up his greatcoat and, shivering to the marrow of his bones,

to go about in his jacket.

This coarseness in street mockery, this lack of delicacy and tact in the

common people, helps to explain how it is that women are nowhere beaten

so often and so badly as in England,[55] how it is that an English father

is ready to cast dishonour on his own daughter and a husband on his wife

by taking legal proceedings against them.

The rude manners of the English streets are a great offence at first to

the French and the Italians. The German, on the other hand, receives them

with laughter and answers with similar rudeness; an interchange of abuse

is kept up, end he is very well pleased with it. They both take it as a

civility, a pleasant joke. ‘Bloody dog!’ the proud Briton shouts at him,

grunting like a pig. ‘Beastly John Bull!’ answers the German, and each

goes on his way.

This behaviour is not confined to the streets: one has but to look at

the polemics of Marx, Heinzen, Ruge, _et consorts_, which were unceasing

from 1849, have never ceased, and are still kept up on the other side of

the Atlantic Ocean. We are unaccustomed to see in print such expressions,

such accusations: nothing is spared, no respect is paid to personal

honour, to the privacy of the family or the inviolability of a secret.

Among the English, coarseness disappears as we rise higher in the

scale of intelligence or aristocratic breeding; among the Germans it

never disappears. The greatest poets of Germany (with the exception of

Schiller) fall into the most uncouth vulgarity.

One of the reasons of the _mauvais ton_ of Germans is that breeding in

our sense of the word does not exist in Germany at all. Germans are

taught, and taught a great deal, but they are not educated at all,

even in the aristocracy, in which the manners of the barracks, of the

_Junker_, are predominant. They are completely lacking in the æsthetic

sense in daily life. The French have lost it, just as they have lost the

elegance of their language; the Frenchman of to-day rarely knows how to

write a letter free from legal or commercial expressions—the counter and

the barrack-room have distorted their manners.

To conclude this comparison, I will describe an incident in which I saw

with my own eyes and face to face the gulf which separates the Italians

from the _Tedeschi_, and which there will be no bridging for years to

come by any number of amnesties or manifestoes of the brotherhood of

nations.

I was travelling with Tessier du Mothe, in 1852, from Genoa to Lugano. We

reached Arona by night, and, inquiring when the steamer started, learned

that it was at eight o’clock next morning, and went to bed. At half-past

seven the porter came to take our trunks, and by the time we reached the

landing-stage they were already on deck. But in spite of that we looked

at each other with some perplexity instead of going on board.

A huge white flag with the two-headed eagle on it was fluttering over

the hissing and swaying steamer, and on the stern was painted the name,

_Fürst Radetsky_. We had forgotten to ask overnight what steamer was

going, whether an Austrian or a Sardinian. Tessier had at the Versailles

trial been condemned _in contumaciam_ to deportation. Though Austria had

nothing to do with that, yet surely it would seize the opportunity to

keep him in prison for six months, at any rate, while making inquiries.

The example of Bakunin showed what they were capable of doing with me.

By agreement with Piedmont, the Austrians had not the right to demand

passports from those who without landing on the Lombard shore went to

Mogadino, which belongs to Switzerland; but I imagine they would not,

if opportunity arose, disdain so simple a means of seizing Mazzini or

Kossuth.

‘Well,’ said Tessier, ‘to go back is absurd!’

‘Well, let’s go ahead, then!’ and we went on deck.

Just before starting, the passengers were surrounded by a detachment

of soldiers armed with guns—what for? I do not know. Two small cannon,

fastened in a special way, stood on the steamer. When the steamer set

off the soldiers were dismissed. On the cabin walls hung regulations:

among them was the statement that those passengers who were not going to

Lombardy need not show their passports; but it was added that if any one

of such persons were guilty of any offence against the K.K. (Kaiserlich

Königlichen) police regulations he must be judged according to the laws

of Austria. _Or donc_, wearing a Calabrian hat or a tricolor cockade was

a crime against Austria. Only then I fully appreciated what clutches

we were caught in. However, I am far from regretting my trip; nothing

special happened during our journey, but I gathered a rich store of

observations.

Several Italians were sitting on deck; they were smoking cigars in gloomy

silence, looking with concealed hatred at the fair-haired officers

dressed in white jackets who were bustling about on all sides without the

slightest necessity. I must observe that among them were lads of twenty,

and they were mostly young men; I can hear now the jarring, guttural,

barrack-room voices, the insolent laughter that was like coughing,

besides the loathsome Austrian accent in speaking German. I repeat that

there was nothing dreadful about it, but I felt that for their manner of

standing and turning their backs in our very faces, giving themselves

airs and showing off, ‘We are the victors—our side has won,’ they ought

to have been flung into the water; and even more, I felt that I should

have been delighted to have seen it done, and would eagerly have helped.

Any one who had taken the trouble to look for five minutes at these two

groups of men could not fail to understand that there can be no talk

of reconciliation, that in the very blood of these people there lies

a hatred for each other which it will take centuries to dissipate, to

soften and to reduce to an inoffensive racial difference. After midday

some of the passengers went down to the cabin, others asked to have lunch

on deck. Here the racial difference was still more strikingly apparent.

I looked at them with amazement—not a single gesture was the same. The

Italians ate little, with the innate natural grace with which they do

everything. The officers tore off pieces, chewed them loudly, threw down

the bones, shoved their plates; some, bending right down to the table,

with peculiar agility and extraordinary rapidity splashed the soup from

the spoon into their mouths; others ate butter _from a knife_—without

bread or salt. I looked at these performers and, glancing at an Italian,

smiled—he understood me at once, and, responding with a sympathetic

smile, betrayed his intense disgust. Another observation: while the

Italians asked with a smile and gentle manner for a plate or for wine,

every time thanking the waiter with a nod or a glance, the Austrians

treated the attendants with revolting rudeness, just as retired Russian

cornets and lieutenants treat their serfs in the presence of strangers.

By way of a finishing touch, a lanky young officer with pale yellowish

hair called up a soldier, a man of fifty, who looked like a Pole or a

Croat, and began abusing him for some negligence: The old man stood at

attention and, when the officer had finished, tried to say something;

but he had scarcely brought out ‘Your honour,’ when ‘Hold your tongue

and be off!’ the pale yellow youth shouted at him in a husky voice.

Then, turning to his comrades as though nothing had happened, he fell to

drinking beer again. With what object was all this done before us? And

was it not all done expressly for our benefit?

When we landed at Mogadino our long-suffering hearts could be restrained

no longer, and, turning towards the steamer, which had not moved away,

we shouted, ‘_Viva la Republica!_’—while one Italian, shaking his head,

repeated, ‘_E brutissimi, brutissimi!_’

Is it not premature to talk so rashly of the solidarity and brotherhood

of the nations, and will not any artificial covering up of their

hostility be a mere hypocritical truce? I believe that national

peculiarities will lose their offensive character just so far as they

have lost it in cultivated society; but for such breeding to permeate the

depths of the masses needs time. When I look at Folkestone and Boulogne,

at Dover and Calais, then I feel full of dread and want to say—many

centuries.

My past and thoughts, vol. 3 (of 6) · 第 5 / 11 章