CHAPTER XII.

SECOND MISSION TO MARÁKESH. 1855.

Trade in Morocco had not always laboured under the disadvantages

which existed in 1855. So far back as 1725 Sultan Mulai Abdallah

encouraged commerce by imposing a system of moderate duties, free

of all monopolies and contracts—and with regard to the garrison

of Gibraltar and the British fleet, frequently granted supplies free

of all duties.

In 1801 Great Britain entered into a commercial Treaty with

Morocco—renewed in 1845—but without any express stipulations as to

duties; the Treaty merely confirming to Great Britain all privileges

granted to Spain in a Treaty made between that country and Morocco

in 1799. Contrary, however, to the spirit of this Treaty a system had

gradually arisen of monopolies, confiscation of products, high duties,

and a constant alteration of tariffs, and the prohibition of articles

of export without any cogent reason for such prohibition being

given. A serious decline in commerce since 1801 had therefore ensued.

In pressing on the Sultan the necessity for a new Convention,

Mr. Hay pointed out that the proposals he had to make were as

much for the benefit of the Moorish Government as for that of his

own. The Sultan reigned over a country equal to any in resources,

and inhabited by a hardy and intelligent race. There was therefore

no reason, urged Mr. Hay, why, under wise direction, it should not

equal any other in prosperity. Yet, so far from being prosperous,

scarcity of coin and great poverty prevailed throughout the country.

The population of Morocco, a country as large as France, contained

a bare 7,000,000 of inhabitants as against 36,000,000 in France and

28,000,000 in Great Britain.

The sale of monopolies might have, in the first instance, increased

the revenues of H.S.M.; but any such increase could only be temporary,

and the benefits derived from the system fell to the limited number

of unscrupulous persons who obtained these concessions. The continual

alterations of the tariff were most injurious to foreign traders,

who in consequence could place no dependence on the security of a

royal mandate fixing any particular tariff. Again, the high duties

offered a premium on smuggling. Even if contraband trade could

be checked by careful precautions at all the ports, it would soon

prevail along the unguarded coasts. Once firmly established, such

a trade would be extremely difficult to check.

Mr. Hay argued that the export of grain and agricultural produce would

powerfully promote increased production. He alluded, in proof of his

argument, to various foreign countries where a large, free export

of grain had greatly extended agricultural operations. Especially

he instanced Algeria, which before the French occupation had only

produced grain and oil sufficient for home consumption; but since

then had, in addition, exported largely to France.

Mr. Hay combated the superstitious objections of the Moors to

selling food stuffs to the Nazarenes by reminding the Sultan that

his subjects were clothed in materials manufactured by Christians,

his soldiers armed and their horses shod with weapons and shoes

made of European iron, and declared that persons who argued in such

a sense were ‘rebels against God,’ since He had not denied the

Christian and the Jew any privileges granted by Him to the Moslem.

Finally Mr. Hay suggested that it would be desirable that the

advantages of such a Convention should be shared by other Powers in

common with Great Britain, and ventured to warn the Sultan that a

Treaty of Commerce made in time of peace by a friendly Power would

be preferable to the risk of having to make such a Treaty at a more

critical moment, when the opportunity might arise for one of the

Powers to enforce its demands; for assuredly the present Convention

would not be renewed under its old conditions.

It was to press upon the Moorish Government the advisability of a

Commercial Convention on the lines above indicated, that, in 1855,

by the direction of the British Government, Mr. Hay left Tangier for

Marákesh. The mission set out in March, 1855. On his way Mr. Hay

everywhere met with a courteous reception. Azamor, however, a town

contiguous to Rabát, proved an exception. There he experienced very

different treatment.

Kaid Ben Tahir, he writes, Governor of Azamor—a great

fanatic—hated the sight of Europeans, but in pursuance of express

orders received from the Sultan, came out with the chief officials

of Azamor and some troops to meet me some distance from the town

and conducted me to our camp.

The following day, according to etiquette, I called on the Kaid

at his residence. As I entered the porch, the ‘m’haznía’

(military guards), about forty in number—instead of being drawn

up standing in line to receive me—were squatting on the ground,

forming a double rank, reaching close to the kiosk in which the

Governor was seated, thus leaving only a narrow passage for me to

pass through. Some even had their legs sprawled out in my way. These

I trod upon heavily, or kicked aside, much to their dismay.

The Governor, who was seated, counting the beads of a rosary, on a

small divan, remained seated as I approached, without attempting to

rise or salute me; neither had he any chair or other resting-place to

offer me, and merely held out his hand saying ‘You are welcome.’

Taking his hand with a firm grip I lifted him gently from his divan

and said, ‘I am glad to see you.’ When I got his astonished

Excellency well on his legs, I wheeled him round suddenly and dropped

on the middle of the divan where he had been seated, leaving him

standing.

Kaid Ben Tahir looked bewildered, gazed first at me and then at his

guards, and I think was still meditating whether to bolt or to call

his scowling attendants to seize and bastinado me, when I addressed

him—‘How thoughtful and attentive of you to have prepared this

comfortable divan for me to sit upon without providing for yourself

a chair or even a stool where you could sit to entertain me.’

He murmured, ‘The divan is my seat.’

‘Ah!’ I said, ‘So you intended to remain seated whilst the

Representative of the greatest Sovereign in the world, accredited

to your Lord the Sultan as Envoy, came to call on you! How do you

like the position in which you desired to place me? I shall report

your conduct to the Sultan, as also the behaviour of your guards,

for I consider your and their conduct a marked insult.’

Kaid Ben Tahir faltered out, ‘I have erred through ignorance. You

are the first European Representative whom I have received and I

never offer a seat to Moorish officials who call upon me—I ask

your pardon.’

Moving a little aside on the divan, I said, ‘Come, there is room

for us both to sit down and I hope we shall be able to understand

each other.’

The Governor sat down and we made friends, so I told him I should

not report the occurrence to his Lord and Master the Sultan.

As I left, he rose and accompanied me to the threshold, the guards

were all standing at attention, looking aghast at the Nazarene

who had treated their tyrannical master with such ignominy; but

the chief Kaid (or captain of the guard) whispered, as I passed,

‘Andek el hak’ (you are right), ‘respect is due to the Envoy

sent to our Lord the Sultan.’

Further on the way to Marákesh Mr. Hay traversed the province of

Shawía, where a curious incident of a more pleasing character took

place, which he describes as follows.

Orders had been given by the Sultan that the Governor of each

province through which we passed should meet the Mission with a body

of cavalry, and escort us until we were met by the Governor of the

adjoining province.

I found these ceremonial meetings very tedious, so frequently left my

Tangier escort and, taking a man on foot to carry my gun, wandered

from the beaten track towards the next encampment, in pursuit of

game. As I was clad on such occasions in shooting attire, an ample

cloth cloak was borne by one of the troopers of my escort, and

this I donned when a Basha or other officer came in sight. ‘Buena

capa, todo tapa’ (‘a good cloak covers all’)—the Spaniards

say—and as the Moorish officials present themselves with their

followers on these occasions, _en grande tenue_, it was not seemly

that the British Representative should have the appearance of a

second-class gamekeeper.

One morning, whilst thus shooting in a field of corn, the man who

was leading my horse came running to say he could see within half

a mile the Governor of Shawía, with a body of cavalry, approaching.

Mounting my nag, I directed him to call the trooper who carried my

cloak—but he could not be found.

As the Governor approached, riding with his Khalífa

(Lieutenant-Governor) and two sons in front of the Arab cavalry,

who formed two lines, I observed the chief was beautifully dressed,

as were also his followers, and their horses richly caparisoned.

They advanced till within fifty yards of where I had taken my stand,

for, as my Queen’s Representative, I always required that these

Governors should, according to Moorish etiquette on encountering a

superior, advance first towards me, and when within a few yards I

would move forward to meet them.

The Governor had halted, waiting for me to approach, so I directed

my attendant to say that I was very desirous to have the pleasure

of making his acquaintance, therefore would the Governor come forward.

This staggered the great man, who, for the first time during his

Governorship, had been sent to meet a European Envoy, and I overheard

the following dialogue:—

_My Attendant._ ‘The Envoy says that he will have much pleasure

in making your Excellency’s acquaintance, if you will have the

goodness to approach.’

_Governor Reshid._ ‘Is that shabbily-clad Nazarene, whom I see

mounted on a “kida” (pack horse), the Envoy, and does he expect

me to go to him?’

_Attendant._ ‘Yes, my Lord.’

‘Mashallah!’ exclaimed the Governor, and spurring his horse rather

angrily, which made it bound forward, curvetting, he approached and

held out his hand.

I then advanced also, and we shook hands. The Governor, looking

rather amazed at my appearance, bid me welcome in flowery language,

and, placing me between himself and his Khalífa, we commenced the

march towards the camp, which he informed me was distant about a

two hours’ ride.

Kaid Reshid was dressed in a caftan of pale unicoloured cloth,

embroidered in silk, over which hung gracefully a transparent white

‘haik’; a fez and huge turban covered his head. The red saddle

on which he rode, and the horse’s breastplate, were beautifully

embroidered in gold on red velvet. The bridle and trappings were of

red silk, also embroidered with gold. His massive iron stirrups were

engraved in gold arabesques. By his side walked a slave carrying a

long Moorish gun.

The Kaid was a handsome man, with Caucasian features, complexion

olive, but not darker than that of the inhabitants of Southern

Europe. He kept eyeing me and my horse from head to foot. After

a pause he addressed me in polite language, though evidently much

amused at my shabby appearance and English saddle, and said, ‘I

am sure our Lord the Sultan will present you with a better horse to

replace the “kida” you are now riding.’

As the Moors are generally big men, horses below 15 hands are not used

by the cavalry; and Bashas, Kaids, and other officers ride horses

standing about 16 hands. My mount was a small Barb of about 14.2,

well bred and very fast. Ponies of this size are called ‘kidas,’

and are never used as saddle-horses, but merely as pack animals.

‘I thank you much, Kaid Reshid,’ I replied, ‘for your good

wishes that I may enjoy the favour of the Sultan. Allow me to tell

you that, from the moment I had the pleasure of riding alongside of

your magnificent charger, I have been wrapt in admiration both of

your own appearance and of the trappings of your high-bred steed,

reminding me of the paintings and sculptures I have seen of the

ancient people of the East and of the early Christians.’

With a haughty, angry expression, Kaid Reshid replied, ‘Are you

mocking me, saying I am like a Nazarene? What resemblance can there

be between us Mussulmans and the Románi[29]?’

‘I said not that your appearance resembled that of the modern, but

of the ancient Christian. The graceful, flowing robes you now wear,

are like those depicted in pictures of the early Christians. Your

“haik”—a garment without seam—is such as it is described

our Saviour, “Sidna Aisa” (our Lord Jesus), whom you call the

“Spirit of God,” wore on earth. Your saddle and stirrups are

precisely of the form of those which Christians used in early times,

and even two centuries ago, before the invention of fire-arms,

when the lance was their chief weapon on horseback. Your bridle

and the trappings about the neck of your horse are precisely those

I have seen depicted in ancient Greek sculptures. Know you not,

Basha, by the respective dates of the Christian and Mohammedan

era, that the former are the more ancient people who believe in

God Almighty? The Christian as well as the Mohammedan religion,

and I may add, art and science came from the East. It is no shame,

therefore, that your costume should be like unto that of the early

Christians. As to my present garb, I gather from your expression

that you find it very uncouth as compared with that of the Moslem;

and my saddle and bridle no doubt appear to you scrimp and mean;

but Europeans, when they progressed in warfare and manufactures,

cast aside the flowing robes, which encumbered their movements, and

adopted this tight-fitting clothing, by which they obtain greater

freedom for the use of their limbs. They found the saddle, such as the

Moslem now uses, too heavy, and that the breastplate, large stirrups,

&c., needlessly overweighted the horse and hindered his speed. I

am not surprised you regard with contempt my “kida,” and that

you express a hope the Sultan may give me a better mount. Now, in

order that I may give you proof of the truth of what I have said, I

challenge the best horseman you have amongst your chiefs to race with

me to yonder rock in our path (about a quarter of a mile distant),

go round it, and return to you. I see the Khalífa and your sons

are mounted on magnificent steeds—I challenge them.’

One of the Basha’s sons spurred his horse angrily, so that it reared

and curvetted, and said, ‘Oh! my father, the Envoy is making fun

of us.’

‘No,’ I replied, ‘that is not my intention. Let us have the

race, and I swear that if this “kida” does not win, I dismount

and make it a present to the winner.’

‘The Envoy is in earnest,’ said Kaid Reshid, and, turning to his

sons and the Khalífa, added, ‘You are to gallop to that rock,

go round it, and return. Whoever reaches me first wins. I remain

here with the troops in line.’

Our four horses were placed in a row, and at a signal from the Basha

we all started. My three opponents dashed off at full speed, ramming

in their long spurs till the blood streamed, whilst I held in hand

my swift little nag, riding about six yards behind one of the sons,

who, turning round as we galloped, and holding out his hand, said,

‘Shall I help you along?’ I laughed and replied, ‘Thanks,

I am coming.’

As we approached the rock I closed on them and my nag, having a good

mouth, turned sharply round it and we were all four abreast, their

horses being much blown as they had been ridden at full speed. I

had no spurs, but merely pressing my little Barb and giving him

his head drew well in front, leaving the three horses twenty yards

behind and had time to reach the Basha, wheel round by his side and

see them finish, spurring furiously.

‘The Envoy has won,’ said the Basha, with a dejected countenance.

‘Yes,’ said one of his sons, who was second in the race. ‘He

has deceived us. That animal he rides is no doubt a Saharáwi (a

horse from the Sahara desert), who has been bought for his weight

in gold, or sent him by the Sultan as a “Shrab Reb[30].”’

‘You are mistaken, my friends,’ I replied. ‘This “kida” is

not a Saharáwi horse; he was bought by me in the market at Tangier

for $22 (£4 8_s._), when he was two years old. He was then like

a sack of bones, but, as you see, has capital points. My saddle

and bridle are light compared with yours and do not encumber his

movements. He is too in good training, being the horse I usually

hunt.’

Along the line of troopers there was much excitement and talking,

but many of them looked very troubled and dejected.

‘Can you use your gun on horseback?’ inquired the Basha. ‘Can

you shoot a bird or animal?’

I replied that I did not often shoot from the saddle at a bird on

the wing; but that I could do so, as my nag stood fire capitally.

The Basha then requested me to shoot from my horse any game that might

be started. The cavalry formed a long line—we were riding over a

stony plain, clad with grass and other herbage. The day was very hot;

game therefore lay close, and every now and then partridges or other

birds rose, but were too far for me to shoot. At length, fortunately,

a ‘hobar,’ or great bustard, rose about twenty-five yards off. I

put my horse at a gallop, and before the huge bird could get into

full swing to soar away, I was beneath it and brought it down.

A shout of admiration was raised by all the troopers, and their

shrill cries of joy were repeated, as I also had the good fortune

to knock over a partridge which happened to rise immediately after

I had reined in my horse.

The Basha came up, holding out his hand and shook mine warmly,

saying, ‘You have won our hearts. All you have said about dress,

horse, &c., you have proved to be true. God forbid that we should

ever have to fight against warriors like yourself.’

I replied that neither as a horseman nor as a marksman could I

compare myself with many of my countrymen, and that I felt persuaded

if only the Moors would adopt the saddles and firearms of Europeans,

they would not only be able to do all that we could, but that, as

a grand race of men, blessed by God with muscular power and great

intelligence, they might surpass us, as their forefathers had done

in Spain a few centuries ago, when they taught the world literature,

science, and warfare.

The Basha and I became great friends. He invited me to his tent,

where he had prepared a feast. Many of the chiefs crowded round me

when I dismounted and asked to shake hands with me. They examined

my horse, saddle, and bridle with interest.

The Basha and I had a long conversation, and I told him of the

wonders of Christendom. Before we parted next day, when we were

about to meet the Governor of Dukála, I put on my fine cloak, and

told Kaid Reshid that it was the garment I had intended to have worn

the day we met, and thus to have hidden beneath its folds myself and

my ‘kida,’ but that the trooper who should have attended me had

failed to accompany me.

‘It is better as it happened,’ said the good-natured Basha,

‘we have learnt much and part good friends. You have taught me

and my followers a lesson we shall never forget.’

On March 18 Mr. Hay reached Marákesh, and writes to his wife ‘I

do not despair of doing some good, but shall have up-hill work.’

Days passed, still the promised interview with the Sultan had not

been suggested.

Here we are still, and have not yet seen the Sultan, but expect the

audience to-morrow.

I have had some disagreeable business, even been compelled to return

the Minister’s letters. They have conceded some of the points I

had demanded regarding etiquette, though little is gained towards

the negotiations; but without proper respect in form we could never

get any result in deeds.

We are all well, but rather tired of waiting here. Our weather is

beautiful and not too hot. We have been amusing ourselves with sights

of dwarfs, snake charmers, and a stone that talked (ventriloquism)

and told me I had two little girls in Tangier, &c.!

If I have the audience to-morrow I shall try and push on the

negotiation and hope in three weeks to set off again.

It was while he was thus waiting at the Moorish Court that Mr. Hay

witnessed a curious performance of the ‘Hamadsha,’ a sect

which in some respects resembles that of the Aisawa—or snake

charmers—described in _Western Barbary_. The origin of this sect

is remote and obscure, and probably its rites date from pagan times.

The Hamadsha, like the Aisawa, have a curious dance of their own; but

the votaries of the former sect, unlike the Aisawa, cut themselves

with knives and hatchets, run swords into various parts of their

persons, and generally mutilate themselves when under the excitement

of their fanatical rites. A large iron ball is carried in their

processions, and this is constantly thrown in the air and caught on

the heads of the Hamadsha as it falls. The dances of this sect are

accompanied by ‘ghaiatta’ (pipes) and curious drums in the form

of large earthenware cylinders with skin stretched over one end,

that give out when struck a peculiarly pleasant, deep note. These

drums are borne on one shoulder and beaten in that position by the

bearer. Like the Aisawa, they dance in a circle, linked closely

together by placing each an arm over the next man’s neck. Their

Sheikh and fugleman stands with the musicians in the centre of the

circle and directs their movements, as they jump in the air, rocking

their bodies forward with a peculiar sidelong stamp of their feet.

No doubt these Hamadsha are more or less under the influence of

‘majun’ (a preparation of hemp), but there is also little doubt

that the votaries of the sect are carried away by excitement when

they hear the sound of the drums, or see their fellows jumping,

and Mr. Hay related the following anecdote of what occurred at one

of these performances when a passing body of Hamadsha entered the

precincts of the house where the Mission was quartered.

Mr. Hay and his friends assembled in an upper gallery to watch

the curious rites of the sect in the courtyard below, where were

gathered the native attendants and the escort with their Kaid,

a grave, elderly man, always scrupulously attired in rich clothing

and of an obese habit, being much addicted to ‘siksu.’

The Hamadsha, in a closely woven circle, gyrated and rocked to the

sound of their sonorous drums, much to the delight of the natives,

but somewhat to the perturbation of the Kaid, who, it appeared,

was himself a member of the sect. The respectable old gentleman,

reclining on his cushioned divan, presently sat up straight and

gravely nodded his head in time to the beat of the drums. The music

quickened. The Kaid’s agitation increased; unconsciously his body

swayed in time to the movements of the Hamadsha.

Quicker and yet quicker moved the measure of the drums. The Kaid

dashed aside his turban, exposing his bare skull. A few more moments

passed and the strain became too great: the fat commander leapt to

his feet, and, casting his garments from him, naked to the waist,

he joined the circling, rocking fanatics.

At one side of the courtyard, near a fountain which spouted from the

wall, were placed several monster earthen jars, intended for keeping

drinking water clear and sweet. After jumping with his fellows for

a short time, the Kaid cast his eye on these and, springing aside

he seized one of them, and pitched it into the air, catching it

as it fell on his shaven crown where it was dashed to pieces. He

would have proceeded to do the same with the remaining jars, had not

Mr. Hay called out and protested against further destruction. The

Kaid therefore returned to his exercise of jumping till he was

exhausted; when he retreated to another fountain, which spouted in

a marble basin in the middle of the court, and sat on the top of it,

in the midst of the spray, until cooled after his exertions.

Delay after delay occurred, and a man less experienced than Mr. Hay

in the dilatory tactics of the Moslem might have been baffled

by the ‘feather-bed resistance’ that encountered him at every

turn. Again and again he writes to his wife in the same strain, ‘I

do not despair of doing some good, but there are some sad rascals

here.’ ‘I am riding them with a tight hand and spurs. What a

faithless set they are.’ And after an even more discouraging day

than usual, he comes to the conclusion that ‘In Morocco a man can

be certain of nothing.’

Of the ignorance, combined with cunning, of the generality of Moorish

officials, Mr. Hay frequently related the following story.

On this Mission to the Court of Morocco, he took with him a large map

of Great Britain, her possessions and colonies, also maps of France,

Germany, &c., as a present to the Uzir, with the idea of impressing

that functionary with the extent and importance of the British Empire.

Having presented them to the Uzir, he proceeded to explain the

different maps, and proved, as he thought, to that dignitary, the

fact that our Sultana reigned over the largest territories and was

therefore the greatest Sovereign in the world.

‘Sebarkallah,’ said the Uzir, ‘God is great. And you say all

these countries belong to Great Britain?’

‘Yes,’ replied Mr. Hay, ‘Our Queen rules over them all.’

The Uzir stroked his beard, considered for a while and

resumed, ‘These are very beautiful maps. Where was that one

made?’—pointing, as he spoke, to the map of Great Britain and

her foreign possessions.

‘In London,’ was the reply, ‘and it has received the approval

of the British Government.’

‘Ah,’ said the Uzir, ‘if _we_ made a map of Morocco, we might

also make out, on paper, that we possessed immense territories!’

At last, however, Mr. Hay’s resolution triumphed over all obstacles.

‘Thank God,’ he writes to his wife from the camp at El Kántara

on April 18, just a month after his arrival, ‘we have started from

Marákesh. The Sultan has requested us to remain here the first night;

but to-morrow we move on a good day’s journey, and please God we

shall reach Tangier on the sixteenth day. I am altogether pleased with

the result of my mission. I have, _entre nous_, obtained one thousand

oxen annually for our troops, in addition to the two thousand which

are now exported, and also the abolition of the monopoly of sale

of oxen. The negotiation of the Treaty is to be commenced in a few

months; in the meantime some reforms are to be brought forward. The

basis of the Treaty, which is abolition of monopolies and reduction

of duties, is acknowledged; but time is to be given for these slow

folk to make alterations in the fiscal system.

‘Apologies have been made for past folly and discourtesy. Everything

done to please. A number of small affairs have been arranged. The

Sultan gave me an audience yesterday to take leave and was most

kind.’

Yet early in the following year H.S.M. repudiated his engagements.

‘Only think,’ Mr. Hay writes in January, 1856, ‘of this

Government, after all its solemn engagements to me at the Moorish

Court, pretending now to ignore all that has passed and been

_promised_. I have been compelled to enter a protest against them;

which has been done in the presence of all my colleagues. Forty

days are given to the Sultan to act up to his engagement, and

then, _nous verrons_ if these barbarians think they can _lie_ with

impunity. After my experience of the past and of various affairs,

I expect that, as naughty people say of the ladies, though always

denying and refusing to accede, they will give way even when so

doing. “_Vederemos_.”’

Six months later he is still engaged in negotiating the Treaty with

Sid Mohammed Khatíb, the special Commissioner appointed to draw

up the Treaty. He writes on July 11, 1856, to his wife who had left

for England:—

Another letter from Khatíb making fair promises, but treaties are

_in statû quo_. Next week, or about the end of the month, I think we

must be at Tetuan to sign, or else tell the Sultan he is a liar. The

cholera is about over. I shall do my best to get home in August,

for Tangier is a dreary hole to be alone in.

But his hopes were premature. On August 10, he writes again:—

I give up all hope of coming home this year, for I have fresh

trouble. After all my labour in settling the Treaty with Khatíb,

the Sultan refuses to ratify what his own Plenipotentiary agreed

to! And he puts forward fresh propositions.

I go to Tetuan in one of Her Majesty’s steamers as soon as the

wind changes, to see Khatíb, and perhaps shall touch at other ports

in Morocco.

Ten days later, the goal was still distant.

Tangier, _August 21_, 1856.

Since I last wrote I have been to Tetuan in H.M.S. Vesuvius; not,

alas! to sign the Treaty, but solely to discuss the fresh and stupid

propositions put forward by this Government. It is not impossible

that I may have to make a trip to Mogador and the other ports; if so,

of course I shall go by sea.

Khatíb expects the Sultan will give way after the present

reference. I am less sanguine and am heartily tired of Moorish

trickery.

Khatíb was excessively civil, and had prepared me a nice house,

with a garden, in the Moorish quarter. The house was furnished

splendidly in the Moorish style. The walls covered with velvet

hangings embroidered in gold; Persian carpets covered the floor. There

was also a magnificent brass bedstead with damask and gold hangings.

I took our cook with us, but Khatíb provided some excellent Moorish

dishes, and all kinds of delicacies and sweets. During my stay he

insisted on coming to my dwelling for the conference instead of my

going to him. I only stayed a couple of days.

I am now so busy that time passes most rapidly.

Sid Mohammed Khatíb resided at Tetuan, and was one of the Moors who

are descendants of those expelled from Spain. He owned Boabdil’s

sword, until it was taken from his house in Tetuan during the

occupation of that town by the Spaniards. He also possessed the

title-deeds of his ancestors’ property in Granada and the ancient

key of their house in that city.

After the Spanish war, Khatíb was appointed Minister for Foreign

Affairs, to reside at Tangier, and during the years he held office

Mr. Hay found him always upright and honest, and ready in every way

to promote any reform or improvement in the system of Government

in Morocco; but after some years, he obtained permission from the

Sultan to retire, because, as he told Mr. Hay, he found the work too

hopeless, fighting against the constant intrigues and ignorance of

the Sultan’s Ministers, and that he was too old for such a task.

In October, a couple of months later, Mr. Hay writes:—‘Final

orders have been sent by the Sultan to conclude the new stipulations;

things are being smoothed and I do not go to the Court again.’

So his efforts had at last been crowned with success, and though

Sultan Mulai Abderahman, adhering to the retrograde policy of his

forefathers, had thrown constant obstacles in the path of reform

advocated by Mr. Hay, the latter had certainly won the esteem of this

potentate. Of this esteem the Sultan gave the strongest proof by

requesting him to take charge of the conduct of Foreign Affairs on

behalf of the Moorish Government, and with the view of inducing him

to do so, engaged that he would abide by Mr. Hay’s decision in all

questions with Foreign Governments. But as Mr. Hay knew that such an

office would raise the greatest jealousy and objection on the part

of several Foreign Governments, he declined—even before reporting

to Her Majesty’s Government the offer that had been made to him.

According to the Treaty ratified by the Sultan in December 1856, Her

Britannic Majesty acquired the right to appoint one or more Consuls

in His Sherifian Majesty’s dominions. They were to be inviolable

in house or person, and to have the right to establish a place of

worship under the protection of the British flag.

British subjects were to enjoy the right to pass through or reside

in any part of the Sultan’s dominions. They were to have the

right of hiring houses and to claim the assistance of the Moorish

authorities in so doing. They were to be exempt from all taxes or

impositions whatever; from all military service by land or sea, from

forced loans and from all forced contributions. Their dwellings were

to be respected, no arbitrary searches or examination of books and

papers were to be permitted, except with the consent of the Consul

or Consul-General.

All criminal causes and all civil differences between British

subjects were to be decided by the Consul without any interference

on the part of the Moorish authorities. In cases between a Moor and

a British subject, the matter was to be referred to the authorities

of the country to which the defendant belonged; if a Moor, the trial

was to take place before the Kadi, the British Consul being present;

if a British subject, before the Consul, the Governor or Kadi being

present. The Consul-General and the Moorish Minister for Foreign

Affairs were constituted judges in the last resort—as a Court

of Appeal.

Provision was also made in case of war between the two Powers for

the security and protection of the interests of their subjects.

The commercial advantages gained were, amongst others, the abolition

of monopolies—hitherto a crying evil—on most articles of trade,

and the right to export, under fixed and more reasonable duties,

most of the products of the Empire. The Sultan, however, reserved

the right to grant or withdraw permission to export grain.

By an article in the new Treaty, the Sultan was also bound to repress

and punish piracy, and to aid Her Majesty’s Government in their

efforts to do the same.

This convention was hailed with much satisfaction by British

merchants, and was eventually adopted by all other nations. Mr. Hay

received, in July 1857, a deputation from the Gibraltar Chamber of

Commerce, who expressed their gratitude for his ‘unwearied efforts

on behalf of trade, and for the prompt and courteous manner in which

he invariably treated any representations made by that body.’

The Queen was pleased to make Mr. Hay a C.B. on the conclusion of

his labours in connexion with this Treaty.

A memoir of Sir John Drummond Hay, P.C., K.C.B., G.C.M.G., sometime minister at the court of Morocco · 第 12 / 26 章