The secretary carried us through several chambers, decorated with much
cost and barbarous splendour. The wainscot of one of the principal
saloons is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, ebony, coral, and ivory; but the
workmanship seems harsh and ungraceful. The ceiling is plastered with
massive gilding, the effect of which is rather cumbrous than ornamental;
"not graced with elegancy, but daubed with cost." Pillars, of a
composition to resemble the richest marble, support the compartments,
and the cornice is coloured with some imperfect efforts at arabesque
painting. There is, however, one article extremely elegant and
well-finished--a low sofa, carried round three-fourths of the room,
covered with dark velvet, tastefully embroidered, and hung with gold
fringe. The general arrangement of the rooms is certainly, grand and
imposing, though occasionally deformed by much bad taste. I should not
omit to mention, that our conductor desired us to notice two very
handsome carpets, which he gave us to understand were of British
manufacture. In the apartment where Ali sleeps, the walls are hung with
sabres and fire-arms of different descriptions; all of which are
ornamented with precious stones. One of the scimitars is profusely
adorned with diamonds and rubies, and a particular musket has a
cartouche-box, studded with brilliants of surpassing splendour, the
central stone being nearly the size of a die. A fowling-piece, sent to
the pasha by Bonaparte, is also enriched with gems, though this last
article is considered to derive its chief value from the circumstance of
having been once the property of the imperial warrior, by whom it was
presented. The chamber opens into a long and spacious gallery; at one
extremity we observed a singularly awkward piece of furniture,
resembling a large old-fashioned arm-chair. So useless an article in a
Turkish palace induced me to inquire the purpose to which it was
applied; and I was informed that, on certain festivals, the pasha gives
an entertainment for the diversion of the children of the principal
families in the capital, who on such occasions assemble in the gallery.
Ali himself always attends, to encourage and assist their gaiety; and,
while reclining on this cumbrous seat, distributes to them, as they are
successively presented to him, baskets of sweetmeats, and such other
tokens of regard as are suited to their respective ages and
condition.--_Narrative of an Excursion from Corfu to Smyrna_.
* * * * *