sturgeon’s bladder, dissolved in spirits, with finest pulverised flint
or sand.
GLUE, into which resin has been well infused by heat, combined with
sand or ashes or clay, forms a strong cement, useful for all kinds of
coarse work.
A VERY GOOD, STRONG CEMENT is made as follows:--To three-eighths of a
pound of water add three-eighths of a pound of spirits and a quarter
of a pound of starch; also, prepare two ounces of good glue in water,
mixed with two ounces of thick turpentine, and stir well into the first
composition. This is a very good bookbinders’ glue.
THE TUFA OR SOFT STONE which abounds in Italy and elsewhere is much
used when reduced to powder and burned for building. It is also useful
as a cement. An old writer says it can be brayed in a mortar, but that
“there are many who, for lack of a mortar, take old baptismal fonts out
of the churches, and in lieu of a pestle use the clapper of a church
bell.”
A CURIOUS DECORATION may be made by drawing figures--for example, of
animals--with glue or gum on a wall surface, and then powdering it with
cloth-dust of appropriate colours. These figures can be stencilled.
As of all repairing and restoring that of _human beauty_ is the most
important, it may be worth while to give here a few recipes, which have
held their own for centuries:--
TO MAKE WRINKLES AND FRECKLES DISAPPEAR.--This is more possible than is
generally supposed, and I have known a lady, a great beauty, of whom
all my readers have heard, who at fifty years of age had artificially
and miraculously preserved her face in perfect smoothness, though I do
not know by what means. The following is given by WALLBERGER:--“Take
fine, pure alum, compound it carefully with the fresh white of eggs,
and boil it gently in a pipkin, stirring it constantly with a wooden
stick or spoon till it forms a soft paste. Spread this on the face,
morning and evening, for two or three days, and you will soon see
that it is free from wrinkles and freckles, and marvellously fair and
pleasant to view. Frivolous souls may carry the sinful misuse of such
beauty to their own account; the virtuous hold in horror all such
deeds” (_Zauberbuch_, 1760).
LEMON-JUICE or the salts of lemon, or lemon-juice and salt, are of
great service in whitening the hands and causing freckles to disappear.
GUM-BENZOIN DISSOLVED IN SPIRITS may be had of every apothecary. Pour
a few drops into a wine-glassful of warm water, and it will form a
milk-white emulsion, which is a perfect and harmless cosmetic for the
face, and serves as a delightful soap in washing. This is the _lac
virginis_ so much used two centuries ago.
EAU DE COLOGNE mixed with water forms a white emulsion, which is much
superior to any soap for delicate hands. It forms a perfectly harmless
cosmetic for the face. Even a few drops of it in a basin of water
will have a good result. Too much of it, or of any wash, will have a
contrary effect, and dry the skin. If the mouth be rinsed with this
emulsion of _eau de cologne_ and water, it will purify the breath, and
that for a long time if used as a gargle.
A STRONG MARKING-INK, or black dye, which will resist much exposure
to the weather, is made as follows:--Take gum-arabic 10 lbs., logwood
liquor (specific gravity 1.37) 20 fluid oz., bi-chromate of potash 2½
oz., with water sufficient to dissolve the bi-chromate. Dissolve the
gum in one gallon of water, strain, add the logwood liquor, mix, and
let the mixture stand for twenty-four hours; then stir in rapidly the
bi-chromate solution, and add a little nitrate of iron and fustic acid.
If too thick, thin with lukewarm water.
A VERY HARD CEMENT can be made by digesting fluor spar for some time
in sulphuric acid, adding magnesium sulphate and stirring calcined
magnesia into the mixture.
A RED CEMENT FOR IRON OR STONE OR LUTING is made of red lead and
litharge in equal parts mixed with concentrated glycerine to the
consistency of soft putty. When dry it is water and fire proof.
SILICO ENAMEL is a thin liquid glaze, finer than varnish, which is
easily applied to all polished metals, as well as other substances.
It may be obtained in bottles, price one shilling, with brush, of the
Silico Enamel Company, 97 Hampstead Road, London, N.W.
LIGHT-COLOURED GLOVES may be cleaned by rolling bread-crumb over them;
also with indiarubber. Also by means of benzine. Several patent washes
for this purpose are now sold.
CLEANING MARBLE.--“If ‘Sculptor’ will get some salts of wormwood,
and dissolve in warm water, then mix with whiting into a moderate
paste, and apply to stone or marble, and let it remain upon either
for twenty-four hours--and if not successful the first time, apply
again--he will draw all stains out of marble, and clear all lichen
either from sandstones or oolitic stones. Thoroughly wash the stone
with a strong soap (say, of Hudson’s No. 2 soap powder) and lukewarm
water, and, when thoroughly dry, give a coat of sulphuretted oil. He
can make his own oil. Boil in a bath one quart of linseed-oil for one
hour, with half-a-pound of flower of sulphur gently and continually
stirring same; then take off fire and let cool; then pour oil from
sediment, using oil upon stone. No lichen will hurt his stone if out
exposed to the air, for the rain will wash all clean every time. I
have cleaned several statues with nothing but Hudson’s No. 2 and
water.”--_Work, April 2, 1892._
CALCINED MAGNESIA, or calcined and powdered bone, laid for some time on
simply oiled or greased marble, which has first been well washed with
soap and water, will often extract the stain. For ink use oxalic acid
in weak solution with water.
GUM-DEXTRINE, or gum substitute, is made from roasted flour. It forms,
mixed with water, a gum not much inferior to gum-arabic, for which it
is, as the name denotes, a substitute. It is very extensively used in
many manufactures, and may be obtained of any chemist. It sometimes
happens that it is too brittle after drying, and does not hold. In such
case add four or five drops of glycerine to a teacupful of the dextrine
in solution.
MOUTH GLUE (MUNDLEIM) OR SOLID CEMENT.--This is sold by stationers in
thin, flat sticks or tablets, and is used by wetting and rubbing it,
chiefly for paper. It is made as follows for labels:--
Sturgeon’s bladder 25
Sugar 12
Water 36
Carbolic acid
The sturgeon’s bladder is first dissolved, the sugar then added, also
a few drops of carbolic acid, which causes it to set more firmly, and
also to resist mould in dampness, induced by the presence of sugar.
This cement is applicable to glass, wood, or metal. Like the following,
it has the advantage of being always ready to use, and requires no
boiling. If it becomes too hard to use freely, let so much of it as is
required steep for a time in water. Many think, from merely dampening
it in the mouth when it is hard, and using it immediately, that it is
a very weak adhesive, which is a mistake. A great deal of that sold by
the stationers is, however, of very inferior quality, and made with
very common glue.
MOUTH GLUE IN TABLETS:--
Transparent glue, No. 1 24
Sugar 13
Gum-arabic 5
Water 50
The glue, sugar, and gum are boiled in the water until a drop let fall
on a slab hardens. It is then rolled and cut into flat cakes.
TO MEND OR MAKE MEERSCHAUM PIPES.--Dissolve caseine in silicate of
soda; stir into the cement fine calcined magnesia. By the addition of
meerschaum powder a close imitation of meerschaum in the mass can be
made.
TURKISH CEMENT of the strongest kind, and such as is used to attach
gems to metal, is made as follows:--
Sturgeon’s bladder cement 30
Mastic (best) 2
Gum-ammoniac 1
Spirits of wine 10
The sturgeon’s bladder, shredded, is dissolved with spirits of wine
while remaining in a warm place; the gum is also dissolved in spirit
and mixed with the sturgeon’s bladder; the whole must be then carefully
and slowly boiled to a syrup. Close with a cork, as it is sure to gum
tightly.
TO IMPROVE CORKS.--When bottles contain substances which adhere to
the _cork_ and _harden_, the latter should be first steeped in oil or
vaseline, or boiled in a mixture of both.
ARMENIAN CEMENT.--This is much like Diamond and Turkish cements:--
I.
Sturgeon’s bladder 600
II.
Gum-ammoniac 6
Mastic 60
The sturgeon’s bladder is dissolved in spirits of wine separately, the
gum-ammoniac and mastic also, but with a minimum of spirit; the two are
then combined.
A cement which will resist the action of spirits of wine will often be
very valuable, as when large lids are to be fastened to jars containing
anatomical preparations. One is made as follows:--
Cleaned manganese powder 20
Soluble silicate of soda 10
This must be freely used to make the cover adhere. When in time it
shall become brittle, coat it over with a thick solution of asphaltum
in turpentine or petroleum.
TO SEAL BOTTLES very securely, roughen the opening or mouth with a file
or glass-paper, drive in a hard cork till half-an-inch below the top,
and then seal it with silicate of soda mixed with marble-dust.
CHLORIDE OF ZINC added to silicate of soda and oxide of zinc forms a
very good cement, which will resist most influences.
BREAD macerated with glue or gelatine, with a little glycerine, makes
an admirable substance for artificial flowers, casts, medallions, &c.
If worked with gum-arabic and a little alum, or dextrine, or common
mucilage, we shall have the same result. It can also be worked with
thin varnish or gutta-percha cement; also with diluted sulphuric or
nitric acids to produce a hard substance. It may here be observed that
_bread_ is for certain work far superior to flour or starch paste,
since the combination with _yeast_ causes a development of cellular
tissue, the result of which is a firmer and more wax-like substance. I
was led to observe this at first, not from what I read of the action
of acids on bread, but from observing the bread-flowers made by the
Italian peasantry to adorn images of saints. I believe that in these
there is a little vinegar mixed. They are quite wax-like. The bread
used should be soft household bread, of course well kneaded with
the acid and colours. Bread-paste would probably combine well with
indiarubber in solution.
Of late, German illustrated newspapers have published patterns of small
ornamental dishes made of dough or bread, intended to receive conserves
of fruit and other edibles--the dishes themselves not being intended to
be eaten.
Soft bread with a little varnish or any ordinary gum and a little
glycerine, well worked, makes an admirable filler for cracks in wood.
Combined with any gum, or even with tragacanth or peach or cherry
gum, and lamp-black (or liquid Indian ink), it forms a cement which
resembles ebony. The more thoroughly it is macerated the harder it
will be. Casts of panels, &c., made with this are really beautiful.
Rub with oil and the hand after it is quite dry. Add a few drops of
glycerine and alum in solution to prevent cracking, or, better, a
_little_ indiarubber. Soft rye bread hardens to a rather tougher
cement than wheat. Bread cement makes an admirable ground for gilding
or painting. Bread macerated with lime and white of egg forms a very
hard composition like ivory. Bread, glue, and glycerine, _ditto_.
HORSE-CHESTNUT PASTE.--This is called a cement, but it is properly a
paste like that of flour. Horse-chestnuts are generally neglected, but
they can be profitably utilised for paste, which admits of the same
combinations as flour.
WASTE TEA-LEAVES from which the tea has been extracted can be macerated
with gum and treated as rose-leaves to form artificial ebony. Carefully
separate all the hard portions.
GUM FOR GENERAL USE, like gum-arabic:--
Common sugar, by weight 12
Water 36
Slacked lime 3
Stir the lime into the warm solution of sugar and water. Keep it
boiling and stir it often for one hour. Pour off the liquid from the
lees of the lime. This gum also admits of modifications. One of these
is the well-known SYNDETIKON, which is made as follows:--To fifteen
parts of the sugar and lime solution add three of good glue, leaving
them to soak for twenty-four hours; warm gradually, and frequently
stir, till the glue is dissolved. Then let it boil for a few minutes.
This makes a good plain cement, which serves to unite paper, leather,
glass, or porcelain. It, however, spots or changes colour in paper, &c.
A GENERAL CEMENT, which may be used for joining metal and glass, stone,
tiles, &c., is thus made:--
Plaster of Paris 21
Iron filings 3
Water 10
White of eggs 4
THE GENERAL MENDING CEMENT so commonly sold consists of nothing but--
Gum-arabic 1
Plaster of Paris 3
This must be mixed with water when used. It does not, however, resist
the action of hot water.
A CEMENT WHICH RESISTS ACIDS is made as follows:--Indiarubber is
dissolved in double its weight of linseed-oil, and kneaded to a dough
with white bolus. Should the cement harden too quickly, add to it a
little litharge.
INDIARUBBER CEMENT FOR CHEMICAL APPARATUS:--
Indiarubber 8
Tallow 2
Linseed-oil 16
White bolus 3
This does not resist high temperature, but is good against acids.
SCHEIBLER’S CEMENT FOR CHEMICAL APPARATUS:--
Gutta-percha 2
Wax 1
Shellac 3
SOREL’S CEMENT.--This consists of oxide of zinc combined with its
chloride. The chloride of zinc is in a heavy, syrupy form, which,
combined with the white oxide, sets very hard. It is chiefly used for
filling teeth, but is also applicable to making medallions and other
objects of art. For this latter purpose it is mixed with powdered
chalk, pulverised glass, &c. The process of preparing and combining
the ingredients of this cement is, however, so tedious that it is most
unlikely that the ordinary repairer will care to attempt it; the more
so as there are many preparations far superior to it.
GLUE FOR TAPESTRY, &c.:--
Flour-paste 100
Alum water 3
Dextrine-paste 5
This may also be applied in many ways.
TO LUTE STILLS, &c.:--
Glue in powder 20
Flour 10
Bran 5
To be well mixed with water.
As alum cannot be affected by petroleum, it is used to fasten rings to
petroleum-lamp holders. These are lined with alum which has been melted
by heat. Alum melted forms a strong cement for glass and metal.
PASTE FOR WALL-PAPER.--Ten parts of flour are made into common paste;
add one of glue boiled in hot water; add to the whole one-twentieth
part of white of egg. This holds very firmly. Paste made with flour and
gum-arabic, &c., does not mould or turn sour if it be mixed with a few
drops of oil of cloves or carbolic acid.
CLAY MORTAR.--Where lime cannot be had, a very good mortar for chimneys
may be made by mixing clay with common molasses. This is said (LEHNER)
to resist the action of heat when well dried.
Another fireproof cement is made as follows:--
Clay 40
Flint-sand 40
Slacked lime 4
Borax 2
This is mixed with a very little water. It is used as a wash, and
should, when dry, be heated by fire.
LOG CABINS and houses built with wood are, in America, often swarming
with vermin to a degree which would seem incredible. In all such cases
the joints and cavities should be well packed and plastered with
cement--lime if possible--and then whitewashed. Rat-holes should be
plugged with stones or gravel and then cemented.
ZEIODELETH.--Vessels of wood, iron, stoneware, or of moulded cement,
are often eaten away by the action of acids and alkalies. To prevent
this they are in Germany coated with a composition called _Zeiodeleth_.
In its simplest form this is simply sulphur mixed with _very finely_
sifted flint-sand, or else ground glass, chinaware, or stone. Of this
thin plates are also made to coat such vessels, or even to form them.
MERRICK’S ZEIODELETH:--
Sulphur 20
Glass-powder 40
BÖTTGER’S ZEIODELETH (LEHNER):--
Powdered flint 90
Graphite 10
Sulphur 100
I.
A FLUID PASTE is made by pouring into a porcelain jar 5 kilogrammes
of potato-starch with 6 kilogrammes of water and 250 grammes of white
nitric acid. Keep the whole in a warm place for forty-eight hours,
stirring it frequently, and then boil it till syrupy and transparent.
Add a little water, or sufficient to make it fluid enough to be
filtered through a closely woven towel.
II.
Dissolve 5 kilogrammes of gum-arabic to 1 of sugar in 5 quarts of
water, adding 50 grammes of nitric acid; warm to boiling, and then add
No. I. The result is a perfectly fluid adhesive, which will not mould,
and dries on paper with a glaze. It is adapted for postage-stamps,
marking over impressions, and fine stationery.
DURABLE FLOUR-PASTE FOR STATIONERS.--Take good flour-paste, adding
to it while boiling one-tenth part of clear liquid glue, to be well
stirred in. Add a few drops of carbolic acid or oil of cloves. Keep it
corked in wide-mouthed, large vials.
DRY CEMENT, OR TRAVELLERS’ GLUE:--
Glue 600 grms.
Sugar 250 ”
The glue must be of the best quality, and perfectly melted in water,
as usual, and the sugar stirred in. It is then steamed away until it
becomes hard when cold. To use, place it in hot water, when it at once
liquefies. This is specially used for paper.
COATING TO PROTECT TREES FROM INSECTS:--
Colophonium (resin) 100
Common soap 100
Tar 50
Whale-oil 25
Smear the trunks of the trees with this. It may also be put on sheets
of brown paper to catch flies.
CEMENT FOR FILLING.--Take fresh curd (caseine), and knead it with water
to a putty. It can be used in this state for many purposes. To greatly
harden it, add one-twentieth of its weight in lime, and more or less of
some indifferent substance, such as chalk, calcined magnesia, oxide of
zinc, and colouring matter. This sets so hard that it may be used to
make casts or many small works of art.
FRENCH GLUES.--Two very excellent glues used in France are the _colle
forte de Flandre_ and that of _Givet_. GOUPIL recommends as the best
glue, where a very superior article is required, one made of equal
parts of the two. Break them up, let the pieces remain fifteen hours
in water, then boil for two hours in the _bain-marie_, or glue-kettle.
After a time the glue will settle and become clear. Add, if needed, a
little water from the _bain-marie_.
TO GIVE A SATIN GLOSS TO PAPER.--Paint with a broad, soft brush on
the paper with a solution of hypo-sulphite of barium (chemically
expressed by BaS_{2}O_{3}). It may be laid on by itself or mingled with
a colour. It is used sometimes by bookbinders. This may be applied in
water-colour pictures to the imitation of silk or satin.
GOMME LAQUE, or shellac, also gelatine glue, is sold in thin leaves. To
prepare it, put into a _bain-marie_ twenty parts of the gum to one of
flowers of sulphur, stir it well, and add a little lukewarm water. It
may be made into little bars by hand; let them cool, and warm them when
required for use.
A VERY GOOD CEMENT, which, according to FRED. DILLAYE, is both fire
and water proof, is made as follows:--Take half-a-pint of milk, as
much vinegar, mix them, and take away the whey. Add the white of five
eggs to the curd, mix the whole well, and add so much finely sifted
quicklime as will form a paste.
SNAIL CEMENT.--It is said that snails or slugs, mashed, form a strong
and hard glue. This is probable; also, that it would combine with
powdered quicklime, or carbonate of lime in powder, to set very hard.
TO MEND MARBLE use shellac in leaves, mixed with white wax.
TO MEND ALABASTER use gum-arabic mixed with powdered alabaster. This is
also useful for many other purposes.
A CEMENT useful for many purposes, also as a ground for painting, is
made as follows:--Take barley and soak it in six equivalents of water
for several days, or till the barley expands or sprouts. Throw out
the barley, after pressing it. This gives a glutinous liquid, which,
combined with pipeclay and white soap, sets hard. It is improved by
adding the powder of calcined bone. Barley water may also be used
in many other combinations. Gum-arabic and thin glue, dextrine, and
fish-glue may be used in its place.
A STRONG CEMENT FOR HORN OR TORTOISE-SHELL:--
Glue (fluid) 1½
Sugar-candy 3
Gum-arabic ¾
The two latter to be dissolved in six parts of water.
ANOTHER FOR THE SAME:--Take strong lime-water; combine it with new
cheese. The latter is to be mixed with two parts of water, so as to
form a soft mass. Pour into this the lime-water, but see that there is
no solid cheese in it. This will form a liquid which can be used as a
cement.
CAT-GUT, which is, however, made from the intestines of sheep, &c., is
of great service in some kinds of repairing, owing to its strength. It
can be made into very small cord, which will sustain a man.
Very strong cords for fishermen are also said to be made by taking
silkworms just before they spin, cutting them open, and using the
silk, which is then found in a solid, longish lump, and which can be
artificially drawn out into any shape. It is probable that the silk in
this state could be thinned and applied in combination with fibre to
produce useful results. It is also probable that this substance, or the
silk _en masse_, could be used for mending silk fabrics in many ways.
It could be produced very cheaply, because the greatest expense in
manufacturing silk is the reeling, winding, and spinning the thread.
An incredibly strong and serviceable silk is spun by the _elm-worm_,
which can be raised in any quantities wherever elm-trees abound. This
is much cultivated in China, and it is said that garments made of its
silk descend from father to son. It is several times larger than the
silkworm, and survives even the severe winters of Canada. It would be
much easier to raise than the delicate _bombyx_, or common silkworm. It
is worth noting that a man can carry easily in his pocket fifty yards
of cat-gut or elm worm silk cord strong enough to sustain his weight,
which is very useful for travellers to know, since it is useful to mend
harness or tether horses.
TO SOFTEN HORN.--This material can be softened so as to bend in hot
water. It requires long boiling. According to Geissler, a horn can be
moulded to shape by steeping the horn for two or three days in half a
kilogramme of black alicant, 375 grammes of newly calcined lime, and
2 litres (two full quarts) of hot water. Should the mixture assume a
reddish colour it is all right; if not, add more alicant and lime.
After the horn has been moulded, dry it in well-dried common salt. Horn
shavings and filings are made into a paste, which hardens by being
in a strong solution of potash and slacked lime, in which it becomes
jelly-like and can be moulded. This must be subjected to pressure to
expel the moisture. By adding a little glycerine its brittleness is
much diminished.
ARTIFICIAL BONEWORK.--Reduce the bone or ivory to a very fine,
flour-like powder, mix it very thoroughly with the white of eggs, and
a very hard and tough mass will be the result. This can be turned
and highly polished. This is improved in hardness and quality by
grinding the mass again and subjecting it to heat and pressure (_Die
Verarbeitung Hornes, &c._, von Louis Edgar Andés; Vienna, 1892).
TO PROPERLY DUST CLOTHES.--The following extract on cleaning garments
is taken from my forthcoming work, entitled _One Hundred Arts_:--
* * * * *
“The obvious way to remove dust from a coat--as some take evil out of
children (_vide_ NORTHCOTE’S _Fables_)--is by whipping or beating with
a stick. This, indeed, effects the purpose, but it speedily breaks the
fibre of the cloth. Therefore in Germany, as in Italy, a little _bat_
plaited of split cane or reeds is employed to exorcise the demon of
dust, known as _Pāpākeewis_ to the Chippeways. But better than this is
a small _whisp-broom_. Half a century ago this simple contrivance was
only known in the United States and in Poland.
“Whip the garment with the _side_ of the soft whisp, and as the dust
rises to the surface brush it away. If the reader will try this on any
coat, however clean it may be, he will be astonished to find how much
dust he will extract or raise.
“All the dust which thus lies hidden in cloth, when it comes to the
surface, acts as _grit_ or powder insensibly but certainly, and helps
to wear away the surface whenever it is touched. That we take in dust
every time we go out will appear from inspecting a silk hat. Again,
the dust on a coat, &c., every time it is rubbed by the cleanest hand,
takes in grease, which in time aids in spoiling the surface. In fact,
half the wear-out of all cloth is due to dust alone.