at the Fort, Something had been done there prejudicial to the Service
of Monsr. _de la Sale_, and against his Authority, and therefore
some dreaded his Return, but more especially a _Jesuit_ was in great
Consternation. He was sick, Monsieur _Cavelier_, Father _Anastasius_
and I went to visit him. He enquired very particularly of all Points,
and could not conceal his Trouble, which we would not seem to take
Notice of.
[Sidenote: _Falls in the River._]
Our Design being to make the best of our way to _Canada_, in Order to
set out Aboard the first _French_ Ships that should Sail for _France_,
we enquired how we were to proceed, and met with several Difficulties.
The Navigation on that River was very Dangerous,[117] by Reason of the
Falls there are in it, which must be carefully avoided, unless a Man
will run an inevitable Hazard of perishing. There were few Persons
capable of managing that Affair, and the War with the _Iroquois_ made
all Men afraid.
[Sidenote: _Oct. 1687_]
However the Sieur _Boisrondet_, Clerk to the late Monsr. _de la Sale_,
having told us he had a Canoe, in which he design’d to go down to
_Canada_, we prepared to make use of that Opportunity. Care was taken
to gather Provisions for our Voyage, to get Furs to barter as we pass’d
by _Micilimaquinay_. The Visits of two Chiefs of Nations, call’d
_Cascasquia_ _Peroueria_ and _Cacahouanous_ discover’d by the late
Monsieur _de la Sale_, did not interrupt our Affairs, and all things
being ready on the 1st, we took Leave on the 18th, of those we left in
the Fort. Monsieur _Cavelier_ writ a Letter for Monsieur _Tonty_, which
he left there to be delivered to him, and we repair’d to the Lake to
imbark.
[Sidenote: _M._ Cavelier, _&c. set out and returns again_.]
It would be needless to relate all the Troubles and Hardships we met
with, in that Journey, it was painful and fruitless, for having gone
to the Bank of the Lake, in very foul Weather, after waiting there
eight Days, for that foul Weather to cease, and after we had imbark’d,
notwithstanding the Storm, we were oblig’d to put Ashore again, to
return to the Place where we had imbark’d, and there to dig a Hole in
the Earth, to bury our Baggage and Provisions, to save the Trouble of
carrying them back to Fort _Lewis_, whither we return’d and arrived
there the 7th of _October_; where they were surpriz’d to see us come
back.
Thus were we oblig’d to continue in that Fort all the rest of _Autumn_
and Part of the _Winter_, to our great Sorrow, and not so much for
our own Disappointment, as for being, by that Means, obstructed from
sending of Succours, as soon as we had expected, as well to the said
Fort, as to those _French_ of our own Company, whom we had left on the
Coast of the Bay of _Mexico_.
It was then the good Season for shooting. Those Gentlemen at the Fort
had secur’d two good _Indian_ Sportsmen, who never let us want for Wild
Fowl of all Sorts; besides we had good Bread, and as good Fruit, and
had there been any Thing to drink besides Water, we had far’d well. The
Leisure we had during our Stay there, gave me an Opportunity of making
the following Remarks, as well of my own Observation, as what I learn’d
of the _French_ residing there.
[Sidenote: _Description of Fort_ Lewis _and the Country about it_.]
Fort _Lewis_ is in the Country of the _Islinois_ and seated on a steep
Rock, about two hundred Foot high, the River running at the Bottom of
it. It is only fortified with Stakes and Palisades, and some Houses
advancing to the Edge of the Rock. It has a very spacious Esplanade,
or Place of Arms. The Place is naturally strong, and might be made so
by Art, with little Expence. Several of the Natives live in it, in
their Huts. I cannot give an Account of the Latitude it stands in,
for Want of proper Instruments to take an Observation, but Nothing can
be pleasanter; and it may be truly affirm’d, that the Country of the
_Islinois_ enjoys all that can make it accomplish’d, not only as to
Ornament, but also for its plentiful Production of all Things requisite
for the Support of human Life.
[Sidenote: _Lime and Clay for Bricks, &c._]
The Plain, which is water’d by the River, is beautified by two small
Hills, about half a League distant from the Fort, and those Hills are
cover’d with Groves of Oaks, Walnut-Trees and other Sorts I have named
elsewhere. The Fields are full of Grass, growing up very high. On the
Sides of the Hills is found a gravelly Sort of Stone, very fit to make
Lime for Building. There are also many Clay Pits, fit for making of
Earthen Ware, Bricks and Tiles, and along the River there are Coal
Pits, the Coal whereof has been try’d and found very good.
[Sidenote: _Mines._]
There is no Reason to question, but that there are in this Country,
Mines of all Sorts of Metals, and of the richest, the Climate being the
same as that of _New Mexico_. We saw several Spots, where it appeared
there were Iron Mines, and found some Pieces of it on the Bank of the
River, which Nature had cleansed. Travellers who have been at the upper
Part of the _Missisipi_, affirm that they have found Mines there, of
very good Lead.
[Sidenote: _Product._]
That Country is one of the most temperate in the World, and
consequently whatsoever is sow’d there, whether Herbs, Roots, _Indian_
and even _European_ Corn thrives very well, as has been try’d by the
Sieur _Boisrondet_, who sow’d of all Sorts, and had a plentiful Crop,
and we eat of the Bread, which was very good. And whereas we were
assured, that there were Vines which run up, whose Grapes are very good
and delicious, growing along the River, it is reasonable to believe,
that if those Vines were transplanted and prun’d, there might be very
good Wine made of them. There is also Plenty of wild Apple and Pear
Trees, and of several other Sorts, which would afford excellent Fruit,
were they grafted and transplanted.
All other Sorts of Fruit, as Plumbs, Peaches and others, wherewith the
Country abounds, would become exquisite, if the same Industry were
us’d, and other Sorts of Fruit we have in _France_ would thrive well,
if they were carry’d over. The Earth produces a Sort of Hemp, whereof
Cloth might be made and Cordage.
[Sidenote: _Manners and Customs of the_ Islinois.]
[Sidenote: _Women do all Labour._]
As for the Manners and Customs of the _Islinois_, in many Particulars
they are the same as those of the other Nations we have seen. They are
naturally fierce and revengeful, and among them the Toil of Sowing,
Planting, carrying of Burdens, and doing all other Things that belong
to the Support of Life, appertains peculiarly to the Women. The Men
have no other Business but going to the War and hunting, and the women
must fetch the Game when they have kill’d it, which sometimes they are
to carry very far to their Dwellings, and there to parch, or dress it
any other Way.
When the Corn or other Grain is sow’d, the Women secure it from the
Birds till it comes up. Those Birds are a sort of Starlings, like ours
in _France_, but larger and fly in great Swarms.
[Sidenote: _Children._]
The _Islinois_ have but few Children, and are extremely fond of them;
it is the Custom among them, as well as others I have mentioned, never
to chide, or beat them, but only to throw Water at them, by Way of
Chastisement.
[Sidenote: _Thieving._]
[Sidenote: _Boasting._]
The Nations we have spoken of before, are not at all, or very little,
addicted to Thieving; but it is not so with the _Islinois_, and it
behoves every Man to watch their Feet as well as their Hands, for they
know how to turn any Thing out of the Way most dexterously. They are
subject to the general Vice of all the other _Indians_, which is to
boast very much of their Warlike Exploits, and that is the main Subject
of their Discourse, and they are very great Lyars.
[Sidenote: _Care of the Dead._]
They pay a Respect to their Dead, as appears by their special Care of
burying them, and even of putting into Coffins placed high above the
ground, the Bodies of such as are considerable among them, as their
Chiefs and others, which is also practiced among the _Accancea’s_, but
they differ in this Particular, that the _Accancea’s_ weep and make
their Complaints for some Days, whereas the _Chahouanous_ and other
People of the _Islinois_ Nation do just the Contrary; for when any of
them die, they wrap them up in Skins, and then put them into Coffins
made of the Barks of Trees, then sing and dance about them for twenty
four Hours. Those Dancers take Care to tie Calabashes, or Gourds about
their Bodies, with some _Indian_ Wheat in them, to rattle and make a
Noise, and some of them have a Drum, made of a great Earthen Pot, on
which they extend a wild Goat’s Skin, and beat thereon with one Stick,
like our Tabors.
[Sidenote: _Presents to the Dead._]
During that Rejoicing, they throw their Presents on the Coffin, as
Bracelets, Pendants, or Pieces of Earthen Ware, and Strings of Beads,
encouraging the Singers to perform their Duty well. If any Friend
happens to come thither at that Time, he immediately throws down his
Present and falls a singing and dancing like the rest. When that
Ceremony is over, they bury the Body, with Part of the Presents, making
choice of such as may be most proper for it. They also bury with it,
some Store of _Indian_ Wheat, with a Pot to boil it in, for fear the
dead Person should be hungry on his long Journey; and they repeat the
same Ceremony at the Year’s End.
[Sidenote: _Game of the Stick._]
A good Number of Presents still remaining, they divide them into
several Lots, and play at a Game, call’d of the Stick, to give them to
the Winner. That Game is play’d, taking a short Stick, very smooth and
greas’d, that it may be the Harder to hold it fast. One of the Elders
throws that Stick as far as he can, the young Men run after it, snatch
it from each other, and at last, he who remains possess’d of it, has
the first Lot. The Stick is then thrown again, he who keeps it then
has the second Lot, and so on to the End. The Women, whose Husbands
have been slain in War, often perform the same Ceremony, and treat the
Singers and Dancers whom they have before invited.
[Sidenote: _Marriages._]
The Marriages of the _Islinois_ last no longer, than the Parties agree
together; for they freely part after a Hunting Bout, each going which
Way they please, without any Ceremony. However, the Men are jealous
enough of their Wives, and when they catch them in a Fault, they
generally cut off their Noses, and I saw one who had been so serv’d.
[Sidenote: _Adultery._]
Nevertheless, Adultery is not reckon’d any great Crime among them, and
there are Women who make no Secret of having had to do with _French_
Men. Yet are they not sufficiently addicted to that Vice to offer
themselves, and they never fall, unless they are sued to, when, they
are none of the most difficult in the World to be prevail’d on. The
rest I leave to those who have liv’d longer there than I.
[Sidenote: _How the Travellers liv’d._]
We continu’d some Time in Fort _Lewis_, without receiving any News. Our
Business was, after having heard Mass, which we had the good Fortune
to do every Day, to divert our selves the best we could. The _Indian_
Women daily brought in something fresh, we wanted not for Water Melons,
Bread made of _Indian_ Corn, bak’d in the Embers, and other such
Things, and we rewarded them with little Presents in Return.
[Sidenote: _M._ Tonty _comes to Fort_ Lewis.]
[Sidenote: _War with the_ Iroquois.]
On the 27th of _October_, of the same Year, Monsieur _Tonty_ return’d
from the War with the _Iroquois_.[118] Our Embraces and the Relation
of our Adventures were again repeated; but still concealing from him,
the Death of Monsieur _de la Sale_. He told us all the Particulars of
that war, and said, That the _Iroquois_ having got Intelligence of
the March of the _French_ Forces and their Allies, had all come out
of their Villages and laid themselves in Ambush by the Way; but that
having made a sudden and general Discharge upon our Men, with their
usual Cries, yet without much Harm done, they had been repuls’d with
Loss, took their Flight, and by the Way burnt all their own Villages.
That Monsieur _d’Hennonville_[119] chief Governor of _New France_,
had caus’d the Army to march, to burn the rest of their Villages, set
Fire to their Country and Corn, but would not proceed any farther.
That afterwards he had made himself Master of several Canoes belonging
to the _English_, most of them laden with Brandy, which had been
plunder’d; that the _English_ had been sent Prisoners to _Montreal_,
they being come to make some Attempt upon the _Islinois_.
[Sidenote: _Dec. 1687_]
We continued after this Manner, till the Month of _December_, when
two Men arrived, from _Montreal_. They came to give Notice to Monsr.
_Tonty_, that three Canoes, laden with Merchandize, Powder, Ball and
other Things, were arriv’d at _Chicagou_, that there being two little
Water in the River, and what there was being frozen, they could come
down no lower; so that it being requisite to send Men to fetch those
Things, Monsr. _Tonty_ desir’d the Chief of the _Chahouanous_ to
furnish him with People. That Chief accordingly provided forty, as well
Men as Women, who set out with some _French_ Men. The Honesty of the
_Chahouanous_ was the Reason of preferring them before the _Islinois_,
who are naturally Knaves.
[Sidenote: _Feb. 1688_]
That Ammunition and the Merchandize were soon brought, and very
seasonably, the Fort being then in Want. We stay’d there till the End
of _February_, 1688, at which Time we fix’d our Resolution to depart,
tho’ we had no News from _Canada_, as we expected. We found there were
some Canoes ready to undertake that Voyage, and we laid hold of that
Opportunity to convoy each other to the _Micilimaquinay_, where we
hop’d to meet some News from _Canada_.
[Sidenote: _Mar. 1688_]
Monsieur _Cavelier_ the Priest, had taken Care, before the Death of
M. _de la Sale_, his Brother, to get of him a Letter of Credit, to
receive either a Sum of Money or Furs in the Country of the _Islinois_.
He tender’d that Letter to M. _Tonty_, who believing M. _de la Sale_
was still alive, made no Difficulty of giving him to the Value of
about 4000 Livres in Furs, Castors and Otter Skins, a Canoe and other
Effects, for which, the said Monsr. _Cavelier_ gave him his Note,[120]
and we prepar’d for our Journey.
I have before observed, that there was a _Jesuit_, whose name was
_Dalouez_[121] at Fort _Lewis_, and who had been very much surpriz’d
to hear that Monsr. _de la Sale_ was to come in a short Time, being
under great Apprehensions on Account of a Conspiracy intended to
have been carry’d on, against Monsr. _de la Sale’s_ Interest. That
Father perceiving our Departure was fix’d, mov’d first, and went away
foremost, to return to _Micilimaquinay_;[122] so that they were left
without a Priest at Fort _Lewis_, which was a great Trouble to us,
because we were the Occasion of it, and therefore those, who were to
remain in the Fort, anticipated the Time, and made their _Easter_,
taking the Advantage of the Presence of F. _Anastasius_ and M.
_Cavelier_.
[Sidenote: _The Travel continued._]
At length, we set out the 21st of _March_, from Fort _Lewis_. The Sieur
_Boisrondet_, who was desirous to return to _France_, join’d us, we
imbark’d on the River, which was then become navigable, and before we
had advanc’d five Leagues, met with a rapid Stream, which oblig’d us to
go Ashore, and then again into the Water, to draw along our Canoe. I
had the Misfortune to hurt one of my Feet against a Rock that lay under
Water, which troubled me very much for a long Time; and we being under
a Necessity of going often into the Water, I suffer’d extreamly, and
more than I had done since our Departure from the Gulph of _Mexico_.
We arriv’d at _Chicagou_ the 29th of _March_, and our first Care was
to go seek what we had conceal’d at our former Voyage, having, as was
there said, bury’d our Luggage and Provisions. We found it had been
open’d, and some Furs and Linen taken away, almost all which belong’d
to me. This had been done by a _French_ Man, whom M. _Tonty_ had sent
from the Fort, during the Winter Season, to know whether there were any
Canoes at _Chicagou_, and whom he had directed to see whether any Body
had medled with what we had conceal’d, and he made Use of that Advice
to rob us.
[Sidenote: _Sweet Water from a Tree._]
The bad Weather oblig’d us to stay in that Place, till _April_. That
Time of Rest was advantageous for the Healing my Foot; and there being
but very little Game in that Place, we had Nothing but our Meal or
_Indian_ Wheat to feed on; yet we discover’d a Kind of _Manna_,[123]
which was a great Help to us. It was a Sort of Trees, resembling our
Maple, in which we made Incisions, whence flow’d a sweet Liquor, and in
it we boil’d our _Indian_ Wheat, which made it delicious, sweet and of
a very agreeable Relish.
There being no Sugar-Canes in that Country, those Trees supply’d that
Liquor, which being boil’d up and evaporated, turn’d into a Kind of
Sugar somewhat brownish, but very good. In the Woods we found a Sort
of Garlick, not so strong as ours, and small Onions very like ours in
Taste, and some Charvel[124] of the same Relish as that we have, but
different in the Leaf.
[Sidenote: Quinetanan _River_.]
The Weather being somewhat mended, we imbark’d again and enter’d upon
the Lake on the 8th of _April_, keeping to the North Side to shun the
_Iroquois_. We had some Storms also, and saw swelling Waves like those
of the Sea; but arriv’d safe the 15th at a River call’d _Quinetanan_,
near a Village whence, the Inhabitants depart during the Winter Season,
to go a Hunting, and reside there all the Summer.
The Sport is not there as in those Countries from whence we came; but
on the Contrary, very poor, and we found Nothing but some very lean
Wild Goats, and even those very rarely, because the Wolves, which are
very numerous there, make great Havock of them, taking and devouring
great Numbers after this Manner.
[Sidenote: _Apr. 1688_]
[Sidenote: _How Wolves catch Goats._]
When the Wolves have discover’d a Herd of Wild Goats, they rouse and
set them a running. The Wild Goats never fail to take to the first Lake
they meet with. The hunting Wolves, who are used to that, guard the
Banks carefully, moving along the Edges of them. The poor Goats being
pierc’d by the Cold of the Lake, grow weary and so get out, or else the
River swelling forces them out with its Waves, quite benumm’d, so that
they are easily taken by their Enemies, who devour them. We frequently
saw those Wolves watching along the Side of the Lake, and kept off to
avoid frightning them, to the End the Wild Goats might not quit their
Sanctuary, that we might catch some of them, as it sometimes fell out.
[Sidenote: Poutouatanni _Nation_.]
The 28th, we arriv’d among the _Poutouatannis_, which is half Way to
_Micilimaquinay_, where we purchas’d some _Indian_ Corn for the rest of
our Voyage. We left there on the last of the month, and we arrived on
the 10th of May at the said place of _Michilimackinac_. We found no
News there from _Montreal_, and were forc’d to stay some Time to wait
an Opportunity to go down the River; No Man daring to venture, because
of the War with the _Iroquois_.
[Sidenote: Hurons _and_ Outahouacs _Nations_.]
[Sidenote: _May 1688_]
There are some _French_ Men in that Place, and four _Jesuits_, who have
a House well built with Timber, inclosed with Stakes and Palisades.
There are also some _Hurons_ and _Outahouacs_, two Neighbouring
Nations, whom those Fathers take Care to instruct, not without very
much Trouble, those People being downright Libertines, and there are
very often none but a few Women in their Churches. Those Fathers have
each of them the Charge of instructing a Nation, and to that Effect
have translated the Prayers into the Language peculiar to each of them,
as also all other Things relating to the Catholick Faith and Religion.
[Sidenote: _June 1688_]
They offer’d Father _Anastasius_ and Monsieur _Cavelier_ a Room, which
they accepted of, and we took up our Lodging in a little Hovel some
Travellers had made. There we continued the rest of _May_ and Part
of _June_, till after the Feast of _Whitsontide_. The Natives of the
Country about, till the Land and sow _Indian_ Corn, Melons and Gourds,
but they do not thrive so well as in the Country we came from. However
they live on them, and besides they have Fish they catch in the Lake,
for Flesh is very scarce among them.
On the 4th of _June_, there arriv’d four Canoes, commanded by Monsieur
_de Porneuf_, coming from _Montreal_, and bringing News from the
Marques _d’Hennonville_, and Orders to send to the Settlements which
were towards the Lake _des Puans_ and others higher up, towards the
Source of the River _Colbert_, to know the Posture and Condition
of Affairs. We prepar’d to be gone with the two Canoes. Monsieur
_Cavelier_ bought another, to carry our Baggage, and left Part of
his Furs with a Merchant, who gave him a Note to receive Money at
_Montreal_. I did the same with those few Furs I had, the rest of them
having been left at _Micilimaquinay_.
[Sidenote: Islinois _and_ Hurons.]
We took Leave of the _Jesuits_, and set out in four Canoes, _viz._ two
belonging to Monsieur _de Porneuf_, and two to Monsieur _Cavelier_, one
of which had been brought from Fort _Lewis_, and the other bought, as
I have just now said, we being twenty-nine of us in those four Canoes.
We sail’d on till the 24th, when Monsieur _de Porneuf_ left us to go to
St. _Mary’s_ Fall, to carry the Orders given him. The 25th, we got out
of the Lake of the _Islinois_, to enter that of the _Hurons_, on the
Banks whereof stands the Village, call’d _Tessalon_, where Monsieur _de
Porneuf_ came again to us, the 27th, with a Canoe of the Natives, and
with him we held on our Way.
[Sidenote: _July 1688_]
[Sidenote: French _River_.]
We proceeded to _Chebonany_ the 30th of _June_, and the 3d of _July_,
enter’d the _French_ River, where we were forc’d several Times to carry
our Canoes to avoid the Falls and the rapid Streams, observing as we
went a barren and dry Country, full of Rocks, on which there grow
Cedars and Fir Trees, which take Root in the Clefts of those Rocks.
[Sidenote: _Aug. 1688_]
[Sidenote: Nipicingue _Lake_.]
[Sidenote: _Arrival at_ Montreal.]
The 5th, we enter’d upon the little Lake of _Nipicingue_, adjoining to
a Nation of that Name. We got out of it again the 7th, and enter’d upon
the great River, where, after having pass’d the great Fall, we arriv’d
the 13th, at the Point of the Island of _Montreal_. We landed at a
Village call’d _la Chine_, which had belong’d to the late Monsr. _de
la Sale_. Monsr. _Cavelier_ set out the 14th, for _Montreal_, where we
came to him the 17th.
At _Montreal_ we found the Marques _d’ Hennonville_, Monsieur _de
Noroy_ the Intendant and other Gentlemen, to whom we gave an Account
of our long and painful Travels, with the Particulars of what we had
seen, which they listned to with Satisfaction, but without mentioning
Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Death. We told them the Occasion of our going
over into _France_, and they approv’d of it, being of Opinion with us,
that we ought to hasten our Departure as much as possible.
We made us some Cloaths, whereof we stood in Need. The Sieur
_Teissier_, who came along with us, and was of the Reform’d Religion,
knowing the Exercise of it was forbid in _France_, abjur’d it in the
great Church of _Montreal_.
[Sidenote: _Arrival at_ Quebec.]
The 27th, we went aboard a Bark to go down the River to _Quebec_, where
we arriv’d the 29th, Father _Anastasius_ carry’d us to the Monastery
of the Fathers of his Order, seated half a League from the Town, on a
little River, where we were most kindly receiv’d by the Father Guardian
and the other Religious Men, who express’d much Joy to see us, and we
still more for being in a Place of Safety, after so many Perils and
Toils, for which we return’d our humble Thanks to Almighty God, our
Protector.
We chose rather to take up our Lodging there than in the Town, to
avoid the Visits and troublesome Questions every one would be putting
to us with much Importunity, which we must have been oblig’d to bear
patiently. Monsieur _Cavelier_ and his Nephew, whom we had left
at _Montreal_, arriv’d some Days after us, and were lodg’d in the
Seminary.