THE BUILDING OF THE NEW CHAPEL AT SAN SALVADOR, AND OTHER MATTERS
The voyagers reached Matadi safely on Sunday, August 2nd, and before
going to San Salvador made the journey to Stanley Pool to attend meetings
of the local committee. They found great refreshment in converse with
their colleagues, and Mrs. Lewis wrote a long letter containing brief,
kindly notes concerning every one of them. The return journey was made
in the company of Mr. and Mrs. Lawson Forfeitt and included a brief but
happy stay at Wathen. Mr. Forfeitt has given me an idyllic picture of
a Sunday evening encampment upon a hillside, where, in ideal natural
conditions, the travellers worshipped God in informal service and read
together one of Dr. Maclaren’s sermons. Upon reference to Mrs. Lewis’s
journal I find the date of this incident was August 30th, and the reading
of the sermon is mentioned.
San Salvador was reached on Wednesday, September 9th, and Mr. and Mrs.
Lewis forthwith settled down to their customary round of duties. In
October they made a journey of visitation to the outposts, and one
incident points the moral that we appreciate our privileges when we are
on the point of losing them. The people of Mawunze, among whom Vita and
his wife had been working, had proved apathetic to such a degree that
it was determined to withdraw Vita, for other towns were clamouring for
a teacher. As soon as this decision was known all Mawunze turned out in
a fit of penitence and besought that Vita might be allowed to remain,
promising all manner of amendment. In the end he left for a season with
the understanding that if the newly awakened ardour were maintained he
should return.
In November the town of San Salvador was plunged into excitement by the
sudden death of the King, following a flagrantly nefarious piece of
conduct, the culmination of an evil course. To the great indignation
of Mrs. Lewis and her colleagues the Resident consented to wink at the
following of certain heathen and illegal customs in the observance of
the obsequies. It was peculiarly painful to Mrs. Lewis that certain of
her women friends and converts, wives of the deceased King, would have
to sit all day long for months in a house with the corpse, never going
out except at night. The only concession secured was that those who were
professed Christians should be permitted to attend the services of the
Mission.
Matter for discouragement and encouragement appears in the following
extracts from a letter to Miss Hartland dated December 21, 1896:—
“The dreadful thing with these children is their propensity to steal. E.
is just the same as D., and so are L. and M. at the other houses. We have
tried everything with them—admonition, punishments of various kinds—but
nothing has any effect. Can you suggest a remedy? We have even bribed,
but to no purpose. Steal they will, and some of them ‘lie on the top.’ If
any one has doubts about ‘original sin’ let him come here!
“E. is a regular Topsy. She informed Mrs. Graham once, who was trying to
talk to her seriously, that she didn’t want to go to heaven; she should
prefer going to the other place. Isn’t it dreadful? What are you to
do with a child like that? One of Mr. Hawker’s sweet little angels of
seven!!! None of the black children would _say_ that, though they _do_
just as bad things. She is a mulatto. I do hope she may be converted, for
she is very pretty, unfortunately for her, and what will become of her I
can’t think. She can read nicely, but is not very clever otherwise....
You will be glad to know that the chief of Mbanza Mputu refused to
apply for the throne here after the death of the King, because it would
entail his becoming a Roman Catholic. I think it was a fine evidence of
sincerity, for he was really the rightful heir.... Another thing you will
be interested to hear. When we were at Mbanza Mputu a fortnight ago,
Matata brought a man to Tom, saying he came from his town of Bangu (near
the Arthington Falls, you know), and he wanted to come to learn more
about God’s palaver. When Tom began to ask him questions, it turned out
that he first heard the Gospel from John [Hartland] when he went to the
falls with Matata, and that he was sent up to Manyanga with a message
when John was ill there. He seems a very hopeful inquirer, and thus the
seed sown so many years ago seems to be bearing fruit now. It is an
encouragement, too, to us, as one never knows how even one visit to a
town may be the means of awakening some hearers to a sense of their need.”
Early in the year 1897, Mr. and Mrs. Lewis were again engaged in visiting
the out-stations. In April San Salvador is visited by mumps, in epidemic
form, and Mrs. Lewis contracts the disease in the course of her work
among the people. About this time she is filled with sorrow by the death
of Mr. Pople at Tumba; and, two months later, she and all friends of the
Mission are again plunged into mourning by the death of Mr. White at
Yakusu. In July she is away at Nkoko, concerned in the appointment of a
new teacher—Manwana, one of their first boys. And in the following month
mention is made of the undertaking which gives the title to this chapter.
“August 18th. (To Miss Ethel Percival.)—In San Salvador the sickness is
dreadful, and hardly a day passes without a death. Uncle and Mr. Phillips
are continually at funerals, and we don’t hear of all those who are
buried by the Padres, or in country fashion as heathens. The Catholics
are beginning to restore the old cathedral.[5] I am sorry, as they have
spoilt the beautiful ruins—the only pretty thing in the place. And they
won’t do it properly. It will be a very small, insignificant place when
it is finished. Of course it is to save trouble, for one thing, as some
of the walls are already there. We hope to build our new chapel next dry
season, all being well. Uncle is busy with plans now. That will be very
much larger. By the way, you would love our cat! She has two dear little
kittens. She had five—but—I draw a curtain! These two are sweet! Sandy we
shall keep; Tiger goes to Mrs. P. But Mrs. Tabitha is nearly human in the
way she goes on. We put her in the medicine-room on the piazza at night;
but as soon as our door is open in the morning she carries her two babies
to their day nursery in our bedroom. She much regrets that they are not
allowed there at night, and protested loudly when we came home, for she
had been allowed to keep house in our absence. She likes to be near us,
though she does not like being nursed.”
Early in October Mrs. Lewis reports the glad and ceremonial welcome
accorded to a new colleague, Mr. Adams, and a journey of itineration in
which she and Mr. Lewis were accompanied by him. A striking incident
occurred in the course of this tour. As they were on the point of leaving
one town certain women came and laid a bundle of fetishes before her,
saying, “Here are the things which tempt us.” She had not spoken of
fetishes, but they had made practical application of her words.
“November 25th.—I think I told you that the Resident and priests were
starting to rebuild the cathedral. They laid the foundation-stone, with
their names on it, and built very thick stone walls. But a few days ago,
lo, and behold, in the walls appeared two great cracks, and the workmen
were sent off in a great hurry lest the whole thing should collapse
upon the top of them. They had built above rotten graves and without
sufficient foundation. So it is left now, and I very much doubt if it
will ever get finished. The King and the people are rather wild because
the priests have been forcing them to pay for it, taking a part of the
King’s monthly allowance. They have just managed to spoil the beauty of
the old ruins, though. By the way, one of you speaks about the future
King being in our school. He was in our school; but as soon as he was
appointed to be King he was taken away to stay with the Resident, treated
like one of themselves, and sent to the Padres’ school. Now he has been
sent to school at Loanda, and they say in a little while he will go to
Portugal. He was perfectly spoilt before he left here. He will learn
at Loanda every conceivable kind of wickedness. So I am afraid he is
more likely to be a curse than a blessing when he returns. However,
‘sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof.’ We must trust that in some
way things will be overruled for good.”
Some weeks after the foregoing paragraphs were written, the tottering
walls of the new cathedral crashed down in a storm.
“December 26th.—The new chapel is not yet in process of building. We are
only getting things ready. The collection is coming in well this year,
and we hope to be quite prepared to commence the work at the beginning of
the dry season, next May. Tom is architect, and I suppose will be builder
also. It will be a big job.”
[Illustration: SAN SALVADOR: RUINS OF ANCIENT PORTUGUESE CATHEDRAL.]
“February 7th. (To Miss Ethel Percival.)—Things go on much the same here.
It is really difficult to write about anything.
“We have been reading in odd times a book called ‘The Sowers,’ by the
author of the ‘Tents of Kedar.’ It is good and rather exciting, but it
takes us a long time to get through a book unless we are ill. Did I tell
you that Uncle is busy building a dispensary among other things? It will
be a nice little building when finished—one side for men and the other
for women, which latter will be my domain, so I am watching it with great
interest. At present I have to dispense from our own house, which takes
up room, moreover the smell is not always pleasant. If you were to see
some of the awful sores I don’t know what you would say! I think I told
you the Resident’s wife has a baby. He is six months old now, and I nurse
him occasionally. He is a dear. I am his medical attendant. The moment
anything is the matter with him they send off for me. Poor little chap,
it’s hard on a baby here, though the Portuguese don’t feel it as we do.”
“March 27th.—What will you say when I tell you there is every likelihood
of our leaving San Salvador and going to plant a new station? For a long
time Mr. Bentley has had a scheme on foot for placing a new station in
a district some eighty miles N.E. from here called Zombo. It is very
populous and is a great trading centre. The people speak nearly the same
language as here so books, &c., would be all ready. At first there were
obstacles in the way, but we are all agreed now as to the advisability
of the plan. There is nothing definitely settled yet, but we hear that
Mr. Baynes is in favour of it, and that if the Committee agree, we shall
be going there with John Pinnock, as we and he have offered. It will be
nice to have him for a colleague, as we shall all be from Camden, and
the station will be a memorial to Tom Comber. I hope that Camden folks
will feel a special interest in it from the first. Tom and I hope to go
there in June to see the place and people, and to study the prospects
generally. Sometimes some people from Zombo come here as carriers,
otherwise there has been no evangelistic work done there. Mr. Bentley
paid a visit there two or three years ago, and Mr. Phillips made a rush
to one town when we were at home. The district is under Portuguese
rule, and there is a Resident, and a Portuguese trader who used to be
here. But it is a very large district with room for no end of work. The
priests have not gone there yet. I wonder if they will follow. It will
be beginning again quite at the beginning and we shall be farther away
from civilisation even than here; but by means of the railway we shall
be able to get to Matadi in case of need in about the same time as from
San Salvador, for Tumba is about as far from Zombo as we are, and then
there is only a day’s journey in the train. When we go there I shall be
able to tell you all about it; until then this is all I know. Tom is busy
with the new chapel and it is getting on fast. He hopes to finish that
work before we leave permanently. Of course we shall regret leaving here
for many things, but we wish to go there very much and shall be very
disappointed if anything prevents now. Well, these are our plans, but the
future is in God’s hands, and He will order everything for the extension
of His Kingdom in this dark land.”
“April 11th. (A circular letter.)—I expect you will be looking for
another letter from me by now, so I am writing to tell you about the
commencement of our new chapel. For eleven years we have met in a house
made entirely of native materials with a mud floor. It has been repaired
a great many times, and now shows signs that it will not last much
longer. We have been collecting money for the erection of a new permanent
chapel for the last four years, each New Year’s collection being set
apart for that purpose. At the beginning of this year the people made a
great effort, and brought a larger amount than in any previous year, so
that we felt justified in beginning to build. We hope by the end of this
year to have enough to complete it, as it must be opened free of debt.
Mr. Lewis undertook the task of planning and directing the work, and much
time and labour it cost him, for you must remember that we have no really
skilled workmen. There are one or two pretty fair bricklayers, but they
can build nothing more elaborate than a plain square wall. Many of the
tools, too, he has had to make himself, in the smithy. Mr. Lewis drew
up a plan and decided to build a stone chapel capable of seating five
hundred comfortably. The next thing was to get the stones. There was an
old ruined wall, a part of the old monastery, which was getting dangerous
to passers-by, so that came down and supplied a good many; then there is
the old stone house which the first missionaries built now fast going to
ruin, that is supplying a good many more. All the large stones in and
about the station were gathered together, and then the builders began to
make the foundations. It occurred to us that it would be nice to have a
stone-laying ceremony. Something that would draw the people together,
make them feel that it was their work, and give them something to look
back upon in years to come. To-day the great event has taken place and I
am sure it will be a red-letter day in the lives of many. I have never
seen them so thoroughly interested in anything.
“It was decided that Mrs. Phillips and I should each have the honour
of laying a memorial stone. Mr. Lewis and his men chose two nice grey
stones, upon which he cut our initials and the date of laying. He also
made two pretty little new trowels, and got everything ready and fitted
for this morning’s ceremony.
“Mr. Phillips, too, was busy. He composed a special hymn and tune, and
taught the people to sing it. He also got programmes printed, sufficient
to give to all who could read. Meanwhile the people had not been idle.
Down at the bottom of the hill is a little stream where there are very
fine grey stones. We asked every one to bring a stone, and every day some
people were to be seen going down to fetch them, until yesterday there
was hardly a house from which any one came to our Mission, but there lay
one or more stones outside it, waiting for the morrow. Yesterday morning
after service, when Mr. Lewis announced the meeting of to-day, to our
surprise the people burst out in loud applause, round after round of
clapping, and it was some time before we could get sufficient quiet to
dismiss them. Just now it is the middle of the wet season, so we were a
little anxious about the weather. We were greatly rejoiced this morning
to find a beautiful bright sunshiny day with a pleasant breeze keeping
it a little cool. Every one was astir early, and at half-past eight the
bell rang and we five missionaries all went over to the site of the new
chapel. Then from all directions came women and girls carrying stones
on their heads. Now came one with a stone balanced on her head, a baby
tied on her back, and a bunch of beads (Congo money) in her hand; then
a little mite of a child with a stone clutched tight with both hands,
then women and girls of all sorts and sizes down to the tiny tots in the
infants’ class, but each with her stone, which was deposited in front of
the missionaries. Soon from a little distance came the strains of a hymn,
boys’ and men’s voices joining in singing ‘All hail the power of Jesus’
name’ in the Congo language, and as we looked we saw a long procession of
men and boys, each carrying a stone, coming from the opposite direction,
Mr. Adams, who had arranged this little incident, bringing up the rear.
As they reached the place each put down his stone, and then all stood
round singing lustily till the hymn was finished. By this time fully five
hundred people were gathered together. Quiet was called for, and the
service began with a short prayer by Mr. Lewis, then a hymn which was
heartily sung, Mr. Phillips presiding at the harmonium. Mr. Lewis read a
few verses telling how Solomon prepared to build the temple, Mr. Phillips
spoke about the history of the Mission from the time Messrs. Grenfell
and Comber came here in 1878—when they used to meet under the old tree
in the palaver ground—up till now, and drew some lessons from it. Then
came the ceremony: Mr. Lewis presented me with the trowel, helped me to
lay the stone, did the same for Mrs. Phillips, and we declared them ‘Well
and truly laid to the glory of God.’ Behind each stone was deposited a
sealed bottle containing the current number of our magazine, which gives
an account of the formation and growth of the Church here, with full
details of the station, staff, native teachers, &c., also a programme of
to-day’s proceedings. After the stone-laying, freewill offerings were
laid upon them; a great number of people pressed forward with beads and
cloth, one woman with a live fowl, and others with papers giving part
of their wages. Then Mr. Lewis offered prayer, asking God’s blessing on
all, and His help to complete the work, so that in years to come, when
all we shall have passed away, many may meet within its walls to hear the
good news of a Father’s and a Saviour’s love. Then with all our hearts
and voices we sang a translation of ‘O’er the gloomy hills of darkness’
to old ‘Calcutta.’ Mr. Adams pronounced the Benediction, and we all
dispersed after the scene had been photographed.
“At the end of next month my husband and I hope to start on a long
journey to a country where no missionary has been before. We expect to
be away many weeks, so you will not hear from me for some little time
probably. I shall hope to write and tell you about it on our return.
Meanwhile will you pray for us that God may give us favour in the sight
of the people and lead us to a place which may become another centre of
light in this dark land.”
“May 19th.—There has been quite a smallpox scare in this town. There
have been eight cases, all at the same time. A house has been built
outside the town to accommodate them. There have been no fresh cases
for about ten days now, so we hope it is over; but the people are so
foolish. Although they are terribly afraid of it, yet they will not take
any precautions, and hide cases if they possibly can. We have had to be
very careful with the children in the station, not allowing them to go
visiting in the town, and we have stopped inquirers and others coming
from other towns, so as not to spread the mischief. Tom actually found
the King hiding a boy with it in his house. Of course he sent him at once
to the Resident.
“The new chapel is getting on slowly. Tom’s illness has not helped it.
Next week, if well, we shall be very busy. Going away for so long and not
knowing exactly whither we go is a big job, and we shall need to take a
great many things with us.”
“August 4th.—The girls’ school flourishes exceedingly, and now we are
getting all the little children, the children of those we taught in years
gone by. It is so nice to see the little tots coming in, and they really
like coming, and of course will be able to learn so much more than those
who have only two or three years to learn in and who in many cases are
working hard all day. We have ninety-two girls on the books. If we go
away I hope they will send another man and his wife out here. Of course
at Zombo we shall not need another lady just yet, as the work will be
very gradual there. At first we shall have to gain the confidence of the
people and that will take some time.”
In June Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, with some of their boys, made the eventful
journey to Zombo, which will be fully described in a later chapter. After
notable adventures, they arrived back safely at San Salvador on July 6th,
and took up their customary work again. For many months, however, the
chapel building was a matter of commanding interest, and for Mr. Lewis
a matter of heavy labour and multiplied anxieties. His wife’s letters
teem with lively and sympathetic references to his trials. His workmen,
imperfectly skilled, need constant supervision. It is passing difficult
to induce them to take an interest in doing things well. Their invincible
propensity to “jabber” while at work leads them to make mistakes which
necessitate the pulling down again of that which they have built up,
and all this with the rainy season imminent, making it a matter of
moment that the stone-laying should be swiftly done. When it comes to
constructing the arches for doors and windows, she fears that Mr. Lewis
will have much trouble in teaching his craftsmen, for no one in San
Salvador has made an arch before. Yet in spite of all drawbacks, the work
goes on.
Meanwhile they await long and anxiously the final consent of the
Committee to the Zombo Scheme.
Early in April, 1899, Mrs. Lewis reports with joy that the desired
consent has been received, and gives account of the progress of the
building.
“The chapel will look fine when it is finished. The roof is nearly on.
It is a year to-day, counting by Easter and not by the date, since
the stones were laid. By the way, we missionaries, the Grahams, the
Phillipses, and ourselves are paying for the pulpit and the baptistery,
and building them in memory of those who have gone. We intend to affix a
brass plate recording that they are erected in memory of Tom and Minnie
Comber, John S. Hartland, A. Cowe, S. Silvey, and Wilkinson. We thought
it would be good for the natives not to forget those who have worked and
died for them.”
Before the month of April closed an event occurred which plunged the
Mission into deepest sorrow. Here follows the account written by Mrs.
Lewis and addressed to Mr. Baynes.
“All last week Mrs. Phillips was very unwell, and caused us some anxiety,
and on Sunday, the 23rd inst., fever appeared, which continued in spite
of all efforts to subdue it. Mrs. Phillips was much worse on Tuesday,
and we began to fear for her: from that time until Wednesday afternoon
we did everything we could think of, but, although we were able to allay
the distressing symptoms, the inward fever remained, and at 1.45 p.m., on
April 26th, she passed peacefully away. Mrs. Phillips was conscious to
within an hour of her death, a fact for which she was very thankful, and
so are we. She was able to speak to us words of faith and hope, and to
send loving messages to all the dear ones at home, and to the women and
children here. At first she was grieved at the thought of not seeing her
little ones again, and at the thought of their childish sorrow when they
should learn that mother would come home no more. But even that passed,
and she was able to leave them in the care of the Heavenly Father. She
had taken such an interest in the building of the new chapel, and the
day before she died asked if it was possible for her to go to look at
it. On Wednesday, when Mr. Lewis came into the room, she said: ‘Ah! I
shall never see the bonny chapel after all!’ She spoke, too, of the work
to which we hope to go in Zombo, and said she thought she should see us
there, and hoped we should have great blessing, and was so grateful for
every little thing done for her, and was brave and unselfish to the last.
“When it became known how ill Mrs. Phillips was the greatest concern was
evinced by the people. None of the women went to their farms, but sat
and watched outside the house. When all was over, and she lay as in a
peaceful sleep, with white English roses scattered around, the women came
in to take a last look at their friend; they burst out into the terrible
death wail, but when we asked them to desist they stopped, and nothing
could have shown the sorrow and sympathy so much as the absolute quiet
that reigned through all that sad day and the day following. The people
all—men, women, and children—did their very utmost to show their love
and respect. They cleared the path to the chapel and to the cemetery,
and the next morning, when six of the station boys carried the coffin
into the chapel, it was through two long rows of mourners that we
passed. Mr. Lewis conducted a short service and gave a brief address,
and all that day a crowd of women sat round the coffin until four in the
afternoon, when the funeral took place in the cemetery on the outskirts
of the town. Every one was most kind. The Resident, the Padres, and the
representatives of the trading houses all came, the Padres even offering
their band. Such a funeral has never been seen in Congo before, and all
the way to the grave and back again the most reverent silence. Before
starting we sang a translation of the hymn, ‘Guide me, O Thou great
Jehovah,’ and at the grave, ‘Abide with me,’ and then we left our sister
asleep in Jesus until the day break and the shadows flee away.
“Mrs. Phillips was one of those quiet, unobtrusive workers whose work is
not much known or appreciated, but we who have been her fellow-workers
for more than ten years know how real was her love for the work, and how
often in great weariness and pain she did her utmost to bring the women
and children to the feet of Jesus. For the last two years she had very
few interruptions from illness, and has been able to work continuously
with me in the school and other parts of the work, especially in the
Sunday School, taking the oversight of the girls’ department, and holding
a female teachers’ preparation class. Our hearts are sad for her husband
and the dear little motherless children as well as the parents and other
friends in the homeland. May the loving Heavenly Father be very near to
sustain them when this news reaches them.
“We mourn, too, for ourselves and the work here. We have lost a kind and
unselfish colleague and the women’s work a true friend and helper. Who is
to take her place? If you could have seen the sympathy and sorrow shown
yesterday; if you could have watched the devotion of Mrs. Phillips’s
eldest girl during her illness and all through this sad time; if you
could have heard the prayers offered by the women this evening, when we
met in our weekly prayer-meeting—prayers for the friends at home, for us
who are left, and for themselves in their own sad loss—you would have
felt as I did that our work has not been in vain, and that the Congo
women are priceless jewels to be won for the Saviour’s crown. You know
that I am hoping to go further afield, and work among the women of Zombo.
I would earnestly beg the Committee to send some one to help Mrs. Graham
in this work. We are so short-handed here; we want more workers, both men
and women, to do for these people what they cannot do for themselves.
They are willing to work, but they need teaching and guiding, and we must
have more workers among the women. These Congo women, with a large amount
of personal freedom and strong will, must become a power for good if
only they are led aright. The fields are white unto harvest, the time is
short, and the workers swiftly pass away. May the Lord thrust forth more
labourers into His harvest.”
On June 7th Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, accompanied by Mr. John Pinnock, started
again for Kibokolo, the journey occupying nearly a fortnight. They
succeeded in securing a plot of ground, and before they left, six days
later, the Comber Memorial station was commenced. Mr. Pinnock remained to
proceed with the necessary building, while Mr. and Mrs. Lewis returned
to San Salvador for the short closing period of their work in that
town. They arrived back on July 5th; the chapel building work was duly
completed, and on Saturday, September 16th, and following days, the
opening ceremonies took place. Mrs. Lewis’s report of the celebrations
will constitute the next chapter.