SAIL FROM THE GASCOYNE.
A GALE OF WIND.
REACH BERNIER ISLAND.
DESTRUCTION OF THE DEPOT OF PROVISIONS.
REPAIR DAMAGES, AND RETURN TO THE MAIN.
ANCHOR TO THE NORTH OF THE GASCOYNE.
EXAMINE THE COAST TO THE SOUTHWARD.
ITS CHARACTER.
STEER FROM THE MAIN.
ANOTHER GALE.
LAND ON PERRON'S PENINSULA.
DESCRIPTION OF IT.
ROUND CAPE LESUER.
BEACH THE BOATS.
SAIL AGAIN FOR DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND.
LAND THERE.
PASS OVER TO THE MAIN.
DESCRIPTION OF THE LAND.
ROUND STEEP POINT, AND PUT BACK AGAIN.
PASSAGE TO GANTHEAUME BAY.
THE INTERVENING COAST.
BOAT TOTALLY WRECKED IN BEACHING IN GANTHEAUME BAY.
...
ERRATUM.
Volume 1 Table: for Castles, read Chateaux.
...
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
VOLUME 1.
1. Map of the District of the River Glenelg, on the North-Western Coast
of Australia, from the surveys of George Grey, Esquire, by John
Arrowsmith.
2. Sandstone Cave with Paintings near Glenelg River.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
3. Diphya, Sp.
4. Diphya, Sp. (Acalepha.)
5. Salpa, Sp.
6. Hyalea, Sp.
7. Physsophora rosacea.
8. Erichthus vitreus.
9. Janthina exigua.
10. Glaucus, Sp.
11. Phyllosoma, Sp.
12. Attack of Natives near Hanover Bay.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
13. Three rows of notches made by people on the Gouty-Stem Tree.
14. Gigantic Ants' Nest and Gouty-Stem Tree.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Captain George Grey.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
15.1. Figure drawn on the roof of Cave, discovered March 26th.
15.2. Figure drawn on side of Cave, discovered March 26th.
15.3. Oval drawing in Cave, discovered March 26th.
15.4. Figure drawn in Cave, discovered March 26th.
16. Head cut in Sandstone Rock.
Captain Grey, delt. G. Foggo, Lithographer. M. and N. Hanhart,
Lithographic Printers.
17. Figure drawn on roof of Cave, discovered March 29th.
18. Supposed Native Tombs.
Discovered on the North-Western Coast of New Holland, 7 April 1838.
Published by T. & W. Boone, London.
19. Nest or Bower of the Chalmydera nuchalis.
20. Map and Chart of the West Coast of Australia, from Swan River to
Shark Bay, Including Houtman's Abrolhos and Port Grey, from the Surveys
of Captains Grey, Wickham, and King, and from other official Documents,
compiled by John Arrowsmith.
21. Attack of Natives near Kolaina Plains.
Drawn on stone by George Barnard from a sketch by Frederick C. Smith,
Esquire.
M. and N. Hanhart, Lithographic Printers, 64 Charlotte Street, Rathbone
Place.
...
DEDICATION.
TO
THE LORD GLENELG,
UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES,
AS PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES,
THE EXPEDITIONS
RECORDED IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES
WERE UNDERTAKEN,
THESE VOLUMES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,
IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE
OF HIS ASSISTANCE, HIS COUNSELS, AND HIS KINDNESS,
IN HIS HIGH PUBLIC STATION,
AND
WITH A PROFOUND RESPECT
FOR
HIS PERSONAL AND DOMESTIC VIRTUES.
...
PREFACE.
The following pages contain the results of the author's travels and
residence in the western parts of Australia, between the years 1837 and
1840, during which period he traversed extensive regions unknown to the
European traveller, and probably never before trodden by the foot of
civilized man.
It is not alone with gratification of enlightened curiosity that the
countries now first brought to notice are likely to be objects of
interest. A knowledge of the districts lying between Swan River and Shark
Bay cannot but be of importance to future colonists, whilst the
intertropical provinces of the north-west coasts, distinguished as they
are by important peculiarities both of character and position, are
equally calculated to draw the attention of the literary and enterprising
enquirer.
It only remains to state in a few words the circumstances under which
this work is given to the public.
The author arrived in England in September, 1840, and was engaged in
preparing his notes for publication when he was unexpectedly honoured
with an appointment which re-called him to Australia in the month of
December following.
Avocations both of a public and private nature arising out of that
appointment prevented him from carrying his work through the press during
the short period of his residence in this country, and consequently the
final arrangement of the impression and the duties of typographical
revision devolved on others.
Although no pains have been spared to render these volumes worthy of the
public eye, the circumstances under which they appear will naturally
occasion them to be marked by defects which, doubtless, would not have
escaped the author's notice and correction had he been present.
It would be an act of injustice not to express here the obligations the
author is under to Mr. J.E. Gray of the British Museum for his valuable
assistance in whatever relates to natural history in the body of the
work, as well as for the contributions in the same branch of science
which will be found in the Appendix; nor are his thanks less due to Mr.
Adam White for an interesting paper on the Entomology of Australia; and
to Mr. Gould, who has lately visited that country, for his list of the
Birds of the Western Coast.
...
JOURNALS OF EXPEDITIONS OF DISCOVERY.
CHAPTER 1. COMMENCEMENT OF THE EXPEDITION. TENERIFE.
GENERAL PLAN AND OBJECTS.
The Expeditions of which the results are narrated in the following pages
took their origin from a proposition made to Government by myself, in
conjunction with Lieutenant Lushington,* in the latter part of the year
1836.
(*Footnote. Now Captain Lushington of the 9th Foot.)
At that time a large portion of the western coast and interior of the
great Australian continent had remained unvisited and unknown; whilst the
opinions of the celebrated navigators Captains Dampier and King,
connected with other circumstances, led to the inference, or at least the
hope, that a great river, or water inlet, might be found to open out at
some point on its western or north-western side; which had then been only
partially surveyed from seaward.
DESIGN OF THE EXPEDITION.
Anxious to solve this interesting geographical problem, we addressed a
letter to Lord Glenelg, the Secretary of State for the Colonies, wherein
we offered our services to conduct an exploration from the Swan River to
the northward, having regard to the direction of the coast, so as to
intersect any considerable body of water connecting it with the interior;
and, in the event of such being discovered, to extend our examination of
it as far as circumstances might admit.
The letter containing this offer also enumerated several secondary
objects, to which we proposed to direct our attention, and which were
ultimately comprehended in our instructions.
The offer and suggestions were favourably entertained by Lord Glenelg,
and further communications invited; and, the project having been favoured
by the support of the Royal Geographical Society, our services were
finally accepted by the Government.
INSTRUCTIONS.
More mature consideration however led to a material alteration in the
first plan; for whilst our principal object, namely, the search for a
great river or interior inlet, remained the same, it was considered, for
several reasons, more advisable that the exploration should commence from
the vicinity of Prince Regent's River, on the north-west coast, and be
directed towards the Swan. I shall pass over the various points of detail
which occupied our time and attention until the moment of departure, as
they offer no matters of general interest. It will be sufficient to say
that everything suggested as likely to be conducive to the success and
utility of the expedition was most liberally granted and supplied; and,
when all was prepared, a letter of instructions dated the 16th June 1837
was addressed by Lord Glenelg to myself and Lieutenant Lushington
conjointly; which embraced the following points:
1. We were to embark in H.M. sloop of war the Beagle, then fitting out
for a survey of the coasts and seas of Australia, under the command of
Captain Wickham, R.N.; and to proceed in that vessel either to the Cape
of Good Hope or to Swan River, as might ultimately appear best suited to
forward the objects of the expedition.
2. On our arrival at either of the foregoing places, we were directed to
procure a small vessel to convey the party and stores to the most
convenient point in the vicinity of Prince Regent's River.
3. After due examination of the country about Prince Regent's River we
were instructed to take such a course as would lead us in the direction
of the great opening behind Dampier's Land. From the moment of our
arrival at this point our subsequent proceedings were left more
discretionary; but the instructions continued: "You will use the utmost
exertions to penetrate from thence to the Swan River; as, by adopting
this course, you will proceed in a direction parallel to the unknown
coast, and must necessarily cross every large river that flows from the
interior towards that side of the continent."
4. That we might have an opportunity, in the event of any unforeseen
difficulties occurring, of falling back upon the vessel conveying the
party, she was not to quit the place where she might have been left by it
until such a time had elapsed, from the departure of the expedition for
the interior, as should be agreed upon; and, to ensure the observance of
this condition, we were instructed to act by the advice of the local
authorities of the colony where she might be engaged in drawing up the
agreement, as well as in procuring guarantees for its fulfilment.
5. The main objects of the expedition were then specified to be: To gain
information as to the real state of North-Western Australia, its
resources, and the course and direction of its rivers and mountain
ranges; to familiarize the natives with the British name and character;
to search for and record all information regarding the natural
productions of the country, and all details that might bear upon its
capabilities for colonization or the reverse; and to collect specimens of
its natural history.
6. It was directed that strict discipline should be observed, and the
regulations by which our intercourse with the natives was to be governed
were laid down; after which the instructions concluded with the following
paragraphs:
No further detail has been given you in these instructions, for, as you
have been made aware of the motives which have induced his Majesty's
Government to send out the expedition, it is supposed each individual
will do his utmost in his situation to carry these objects out, either by
obtaining all possible information or by such other means as may be in
his power.
Although the instructions regarding the expedition are addressed to you
conjointly as conductors of it, it is necessary that the principal
authority and direction should be vested in one individual, on whom the
chief responsibility would rest.
It is to be understood that Lieutenant Grey, the senior military officer,
is considered as commanding the party and the person by whose orders and
instructions all individuals composing the party will be guided and
conform.
...
1837.
All our preparations being completed, there embarked in the Beagle,
besides myself and Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, a surgeon and naturalist,
and Corporals Coles and Auger, Royal Sappers and Miners, who had
volunteered their services; and we sailed from Plymouth on the 5th July
1837.
TENERIFE. AQUEDUCT AT SANTA CRUZ.
The usual incidents of a sea voyage brought us to Santa Cruz in Tenerife,
where I landed on Wednesday 19th July 1837, about 2 o'clock in the
afternoon. There was a sort of table d'hote at 3 o'clock at an hotel kept
by an Englishman, at which I dined, and was fortunate in so doing as I
met there a German and several English merchants who were principally
engaged in the trade of the country. There was also a gentleman who had
been from his earliest years in the African trade for gums, etc.; and he
gave me many interesting particulars of the wild life the individuals so
occupied are compelled to lead. In the afternoon I made a set of magnetic
observations and then walked out to see the aqueduct; which at about
three-quarters of a mile to the north-east of the town approaches it by a
passage cut through a mountain. The execution of this work must have been
attended with immense labour, for, although the design is grand and
noble, the actual plan upon which it has been completed was by no means
well conceived. The average depth of this cut is at least one hundred and
twenty feet, its length is about one hundred and eighty, whilst its
breadth in many parts is not more than four.
Previously to the construction of this aqueduct the town of Santa Cruz
was very badly supplied with water, indeed so much so that the
inhabitants were, at some periods of the year, compelled to send upwards
of three miles for it; but no want of this nature has ever been
experienced since its completion. The expenses of its construction as
also of keeping it in repair are principally defrayed by a tax upon all
wine and spirits actually consumed in the town.
The scenery of the country I walked through was bold and romantic but by
no means rich; fig-trees grew wild about the mountains, and it seemed
singular that, whenever I approached one, the peasants on the adjacent
hills shouted out in loud tones. As far as I could understand the guide,
this was done to deter us from eating the fruits now just ripe, and, upon
my return to the town and making further enquiries, I found that such was
their custom.
EXCURSION TO ORATAVA.
July 20th.
I started at six o'clock with Mr. Lushington for Oratava, distant about
30 miles from Santa Cruz. We were mounted on small ponies, admirably
adapted to the wretched roads of the country, and accompanied by two
guides who carried our carpet bags.
CAMELS, MATANZAS, THE GUANCHES.
The first town we came to was Laguna, which appeared to be of some
importance; it is distant about four miles from Santa Cruz. On this road
we passed many camels laden with heavy burdens; a circumstance which
rather surprised me for I had always imagined that, owing to the peculiar
formation of its foot, the camel was only fitted for travelling over
sandy ground, whilst the way from Santa Cruz to Laguna is one continued
mass of sharp rocks, utterly unworthy of the name of a road; yet these
animals appeared to move over it without the least inconvenience.
After leaving Laguna the country for some miles bore a very uninteresting
appearance; for, although apparently fertile, it was quite parched up by
the extreme heat of the sun; our guides, who were on foot carrying our
carpet bags, kept up with us by running, and, occasionally when tired,
catching hold of the horses' tails to assist themselves along.
We halted for breakfast at Matanzas (or the place of slaughter) so called
from a dreadful slaughter of the Spaniards which was here made by the
Guanches, the aborigines of the island. I examined the spot where this
occurred; it is a narrow defile, formed by a precipice on one hand, and
perpendicular rocks on the other, and lies on the only route by which you
can pass across the island from east to west; it was therefore well
adapted for the purposes of savage warfare, and the Guanches here made
the Spaniards pay dearly for the cruelties practised on themselves.
All traces of this interesting people, who were eventually extirpated by
the Spaniards, have long since vanished, and, although I spared no pains,
I could glean but little information about them, but to this subject I
will advert again.
Before breakfast I made a set of magnetic observations, and then,
swallowing a hasty meal, prepared to start. A difficulty however arose
here, for neither Mr. Lushington nor myself spoke a word of Spanish,
although we understood tolerably well what others said to us; the paying
our bill became therefore rather a matter of embarrassment. One of the
guides saw our distress and made signs that he would arrange matters for
us; we accordingly gave him a dollar. With this he paid the bill and I
saw him receive some change, which he coolly pocketed; I afterwards asked
him for it, but he pretended with the utmost nonchalance not to
understand me; so we saw no more of it.
SCENERY NEAR ORATAVA.
In the ride from Matanzas to Oratava the road is wretched but the scenery
compensates for this. Upon arriving at the brow of the hill above
Oratava, a beautiful prospect bursts upon the sight; directly in front
rises the lordly Peak, whilst in the foreground are vineyards, cottages,
and palm-trees; in the centre stands La Villa, the upper town of Oratava,
encircled with gardens; on the right lies a rich slope running down to
the sea which bounds the prospect on that side; and on the left rise
rocky mountains, for the greater part clothed with wood.
We now spurred our horses on and, leaving the guides behind, soon reached
La Villa, accompanied by a countryman who had joined us upon a pony; but,
on getting into the town, the melancholy truth rushed upon my
recollection that we could not speak Spanish: had we remained with our
guides this would not much have signified, for they had been told at
Santa Cruz to take us to a hotel.
EMBARRASSMENTS ON ARRIVAL THERE.
Nothing remained now but to do our best to open a communication; we
accordingly accosted a variety of individuals in English, French,
Italian, German--but in vain. Spanish alone was understood or spoken
here; our friend, the countryman, stuck to us most nobly, he understood
us not a bit better than the rest but saw that we were in distress and
would not desert us.
We at last deliberately halted under a house where we could get a little
shade, for the sun was intensely hot and, a crowd having soon collected,
we harangued them alternately and received long answers in reply; but,
although able to make out a great deal of what they said, we could not
get them to understand a single word on our part. At length kind fate
sent the guides to our rescue and they led us off direct to the hotel.
This however brought only partial relief to our wants; we opened our
mouths, and pointed down our throats. So much was understood and a
chicken instantly killed. We laid our heads upon a table, feigning sleep,
and were shown to a wretched room; but here all converse terminated. Mr.
Lushington desired to ascend the Peak therefore it became necessary that
we should hit upon some means of making them comprehend this; but all
efforts were in vain. At length they proposed to send for an interpreter,
which was accordingly done; but he was at dinner, and could not then
come.
At last the interpreter arrived, a Spanish Don who had been for some
years resident in a mercantile house in New York; he was very dirty, but
good-natured, and soon made the necessary arrangements for Mr.
Lushington; who for eight dollars was to be provided with a pony, a
sumpter mule, provisions and guides, taken safely to the top of the Peak
and brought back again; which I thought reasonable enough.
After these arrangements I managed to scrape some acquaintance with this
Spanish gentleman, who told me to my great edification that I was in a
notorious gambling house. I had been informed at Santa Cruz that the
inhabitants of those islands were dreadfully addicted to that vice, and I
now, from personal observation, found this was too true.
After dinner I started to walk to the Port of Oratava, distant about
three miles; there was beautiful scenery the whole way, and a tolerable
road for the island. I called on Mr. Carpenter, the British Consul, to
whom I had a letter, and he made arrangements for my being admitted to
the botanical gardens at six o'clock the next morning.
On my return to La Villa all the roues of the town were assembled at our
hotel to eat ices and gamble: I joined them in the former but not in the
latter amusement.
SPANISH INTERPRETER. MANNERS.
The gentleman who had acted as interpreter for us was also there, but I
could gain very little further information from him. He told me that they
had just heard George the Eighth, the King of England, was dead (William
the Fourth had just died) and his knowledge of the other European
countries was much upon the same scale. I found that gambling was here
carried on to an extent which was really deplorable.
July 21.
I started at half-past five for the botanic gardens, diligently inspected
them, and afterwards made a set of magnetic observations; this occupied a
large portion of the morning. I however still had time to geologise for
about three hours, and then rode back to Santa Cruz, where I did not
arrive till late at night.
STATISTICS OF THE CANARY ISLANDS. TABLES.
July 22.
In the morning I renewed my magnetic observations and, having dined at
the table d'hote, I passed the afternoon in calling upon several persons,
and collecting such information regarding the group of islands as I could
pick up. Two statistical tables then given to me I have here inserted.
The first shows the extent of the seven larger islands and the average
number of inhabitants in each. On these numbers I think dependence may be
placed, as they nearly agree, in the total, with that given by Tarrente
in the Geografia Universal (1828) who makes it 196,517, being about
12,000 above the number given by Humboldt for the gross population at the
end of the last century.
The second table gives the quantity of the most important products raised
annually in each island.
(@@@TABLE OF EXTENT AND NUMBER OF INHABITANTS OF THE SEVEN LARGER
ISLANDS.)
(@@@TABLE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PRODUCTS OF EACH ISLAND.)
METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT ORATAVA AND SANTA CRUZ.
To these I have added a short table showing the mean heat of every month
at Tenerife, as deduced from a continued series of daily observations by
Dr. Savignon and Mr. Richardson, at Laguna between the years 1811 and
1818, to which is annexed another of the quantity of rain which fell
during some months of the years 1812 and 1813.
The two gentlemen who had made these observations having since died, I
was not able to obtain any of the actual thermometrical observations, but
to the son of Mr. Richardson I am obliged for having allowed me to copy
the results contained in these tables.
SUMMARY OF OBSERVATIONS MADE BY DR. SAVIGNON* AND MR. RICHARDSON, AT
LAGUNA.
(*Footnote. Monsieur Savignon, Medecin du Gouvernement, se distingue par
un caractere honorable et des connoissances etendues dans la profession.
Voyage aux Terres Australes Tome 1 page 21.)
La temporatura media de la Laguna puedi considerarse de 63 de Fahrenheit,
dentro las casas del centro de la Ciudad, en sombra y al ayre libre;
segun resulta de 8 Anos de observaciones, no interrumpidas ni un solo dia
desde 1811 a 1818.*
POR MESES COMO SIGUE.
Emero, 55 a 55 1/2.
Febrero, 56 a 56.
Marzo, 58 a 58 1/4.
Abril, 59 a 59 1/4.
Mayo, 62 a 62.
Junio, 65 a 65.
Julio, 69 a 68 3/4.
Agosto, 71 a 71 1/4.
Septiembre, 70 a 70 1/4.
Octubre, 66 a 66 3/8.
Noviembre, 62 a 62.
Diciembre, 58 a 58.
62 3/4, media De lo 8 Anos.
(*Footnote. The mean temperature of Laguna may be estimated at 63 degrees
of Fahrenheit, within doors, in the middle of the town; the thermometer
being placed in the shade, and exposed to the air. Result of eight years'
uninterrupted daily observations from 1811 to 1818.)
Rain which fell in two years, 1812 and 1813, in inches. Column 1 1812.
Column 2 1813.
Emero, 10.79 3.34.
Febrero, 2.22 2.46.
Marzo, 0.15 4.17.
Abril, 0.09 2.39.
Mayo.
Junio.
Julio.
Agosto.
Septiembre, - 0.15.
Octubre, 1.76 7.34.
Noviembre, 2.12 4.24.
Diciembre, 2.20 1.13.
19.33 25.22.
In twenty-four hours in January, fell 5.24 inches.
A few observations taken on board the Beagle during the five days it lay
at Santa Cruz seemed to give a mean heat of about 76 degrees; but it must
be remembered that these observations were made in a vessel lying only
about a quarter of a mile from the shore and exposed to the constant rays
of the sun during six days of a season considered by the inhabitants to
be a very warm one. I do not therefore think that the observations of Dr.
Savignon and Mr. Richardson, taken under such very different
circumstances at Laguna, which Von Buch estimates at 264 toises above the
sea, could be far from the truth.
The annual mean temperature of Santa Cruz according to Von Buch is 71
degrees 8' Fahrenheit, or 21 degrees 8' of the centigrade scale.
OCCASIONAL VIOLENT STORMS.
From Mr. Cochrane, a very intelligent English merchant whom I met there,
I obtained much information on various points, and he brought to my
notice the violent storms of wind and rain which occur on the island
occasionally during the rainy season, and cause great destruction and
damage.
DAMAGE BY STORM OF 1826.
One had passed over in the month of March of the year I was there (1837)
and I was fortunate enough to obtain an official account of the damage
occasioned by another in November 1826, which is here annexed. A similar
one was experienced, as will be seen by the table, in January 1812, when
5.24 inches of rain fell in twenty-four hours.
En la noche del 7 al 8 de Novembre 1826, se experimento un temporal de
Viento y Agua, que causo on todas les Yslas muchos estragos. En 8 pueblos
de la de Tenerife, se sufrion las des-gracias que manifiesta el siguente
Estado.
[In the night between the 7th and 8th of November 1826 was experienced a
storm of wind and rain which caused great ravages in all the islands. In
8 districts of Tenerife were sustained the losses enumerated below.]
COLUMN 1: PUEBLOS. Towns.
COLUMN 2: PERSONAS. Persons.
COLUMN 3: CUSAE DESTRUIDAS. Houses Destroyed.
COLUMN 4: ANIMALES. Animals.
COLUMN 5: CASAS ARRUINADAS. Houses Ruined.
Villa de la Oratava 104 144 591 75.
Puerto de la Cruz 32 31 23 6.
Realejo de Arriba 25 41 - -.
Realejo de Abajo 14 9 - 2.
Guancha 52 72 344 31.
Rambla 10 14 13 -.
Ycod 5 - - -.
Santa Ursula 1 - 38 -.
VOCABULARY OF THE CANARIAN DIALECTS.
Sunday July 23.
I procured a few words of the original languages of the Guanches from in
old government manuscript, and as from this circumstance no doubt can
exist as to its authenticity, I have inserted them.
Several of these will be found already published in the History of the
Canary Islands by Glas (page 174) with occasional slight differences of
spelling, whilst the rest, though few in number, are, as far as I am
aware, now first given.
VOCABULARY OF TENERIFE, OF CANARY AND PALMA.
Such scanty vocabularies and some mummies from Tenerife, scattered
through the cabinets of the curious in various parts of Europe, are the
only existing records of the race which held possession of these islands
on the descent of John de Betancourt, about the year 1400, and who were
nearly exterminated within little more than a century after.
ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA GUANCHINESA O DE TENERIFE.
(Some words of the language of the Guanches, or of Tenerife.)
COLUMN 1: GUANCHEAN.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
Achamam : Dios : God.
Achano : Ano : A year.
Achicaxna (Achicarna, Glas.) : Villano : A peasant.
Achimencey : Hidalgo : A nobleman.
Ataman : - : Heaven.
Axa (Ara, Glas.) : Cabra : A Goat.
Banot : Vara Endurecida : A Pole hardened (by fire).
Cancha : Perro : A Dog.
Achicuca : Hijo : A son.
Cichiciquizo : Escudero : A Squire.
Guan (Coran, Glas.) : Hombre : A man.
Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An Earthen vessel.
Hara (Ana, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.
Mencey : El Rey : The King.
Oche (Ahico, Glas.) : Mantera : A mantle.
Sigone : Capitan : A Captain.
Tano : Cebada : Barley.
Xerios : Zapatos : Shoes.
ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE CANARIA.
(Some words of the language of Canary.)
COLUMN 1: CANARY.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
Ahorac : Dios : God.
Almogaron : Adoratorio : A Temple or place of worship.
Amodagas : Varos-tostados : Poles hardened (by fire).
Aramotanoque : Cebada : Barley.
Aridaman : Cabra: A Goat.
Carianas : Espuerta : A Rush or Palm-basket.
Doramas : Narices : Nostrils.
Gofio : Farina de cebada tostada : Flour of baked Barley.
Guanarteme : El Rey : The King.
Guaire : El Consejero : The Councillor.
Magado : Garrote de Guerra : Poles or sticks used as weapons.
Tahagan (Taharan, Glas.) : Oveja : A Sheep.
Tamaranona : Carne Frita : Roasted or broiled meat.
Tamarco : Camisa de pieles : A Garment or shirt of hides or skins.
ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA PALMESA.
(Some words of the language of Palma.)
COLUMN 1: PALMA.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
Abora : Deos : God.
Adijirja : Arroyo : A Rivulet.
Asero : Lugar Fuerte : A Stronghold.
Atinariva : Puerco : A Hog.
Aguayan : Perro : A Dog.
Mayantigo : Pedazo de Cielo : Heavenly.
Tidote : Monte : A Hill.
Tiguevite : Cabra : A Goat.
Tigotan : Cielos : The Heavens.
Yruene : El Diablo : The Devil.
OF THE OTHER ISLANDS.
ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DE FUERTEVENTURA Y LANZEROTA.
(Some words of the language of Fortaventura and Lanzerota.)
COLUMN 1: FUERTEVENTURA AND LANZEROTA.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
Aho : Leche : Milk.
Attaha : Hombre de Valor : A Valiant Man.
Elecuenes : Adoratorio : A Place of devotion.
Guanigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.
Guapil : Sombrero : A Hat.
Horbuy : Cuero : A Skin or Hide.
Maxo (Ma, Glas.) : Zapatos : Shoes.
Tabite : Tarro pequeno : A small earthen pan.
Tamocen : Cebada : Barley.
Tezezes : Varas de Acebucha : Poles of the wild olive tree.
ALGUNAS DICCIONES DE LA LENGUA DEL HIERRO Y GOMERA.
(Some words of the language of Ferro and Gomera.)
COLUMN 1: FERRO AND GOMERA.
COLUMN 2: SPANISH.
COLUMN 3: ENGLISH.
Aculan : Manteca : Butter.
Achemen : Leche : Milk.
Aemon : Agua : Water.
Banot : Garrote de Guerra : War Clubs.
Ganigo : Cazuela de Barro : An earthen vessel.
Haran : Helocho : Furze.
Fubaque : Reses gordas : Fat cattle.
Guatativoa : Un convita : A gathering to a Banquet.
Tahuyan : Bas quinas : A Petticoat of Skins.
Tamasagues : Veras largas : Long Poles.
GUANCHE BONE CAVE. AND REMARKS. MARINE BLOWING STONE.
It was in the course of my enquiries for words of the Guanche language
that I accidentally heard yesterday, from an old inhabitant, of the
existence of a cave in the rocks, about 3 miles to the north-east of
Santa Cruz, which it was impossible to enter, but which, when examined
from the sea, could be observed to be full of bones. This cave, he said,
was known to the old inhabitants by the name of La Cueva de los Guanches;
and according to traditionary report it had been the burying-place of the
original inhabitants of this island. Several English merchants of whom I
made enquiries knew nothing of it, even by report, but the master of the
hotel was aware of its existence and promised to procure me guides to it.
Although this day was Sunday, yet, as I was to sail in the afternoon, the
inducement was too strong to resist, and I started in a boat at 6 o'clock
with Mr. Walker our surgeon, taking my geological hammer as I intended to
return overland.
When we had proceeded about a mile and a half from Santa Cruz I was
astonished to hear, from the rocks on the shore, a loud roaring noise,
and to see large clouds apparently of ascending smoke. I landed to
ascertain the cause of this, and found it arose from one of those hollow
rocks which are sometimes seen on our own coast and are known by various
names, such as blowing stones, boiling kettles, etc. etc. I had however
never seen one at all to be compared to this in size. It was formed by a
hole in the rocks through which the water is first poured as the waves
rush in; and then is partly driven out with a loud noise through a hole
far up, and partly returns, in the form of spray, by the opening through
which it was at first impelled. By assuming a proper position with regard
to the sun a most beautiful rainbow is seen in this spray as it is dashed
high into the air, and the whole is well worthy of a visit. Having
collected some shells and geological specimens we again embarked for the
cave.
On reaching the spot we distinctly observed, from the shore, the mouths
of two caves full of bones. As the Guanches were in the habit of
embalming their dead I entertained hopes of obtaining from them a mummy,
of which there are several preserved in the Canary Islands. Upon landing
however I found that they were utterly inaccessible, being situated in a
perpendicular rock about 150 feet above the level of high water mark, and
a considerable distance beneath the summit of the cliff. I had indulged a
hope of being able to swing into one of the caves by means of a rope
suspended from the top, but, owing to a large rock which projects from
above quite over their mouths, this would be very difficult. Several
bones had been blown out of the apertures, which I collected and found
them to have belonged to man, but otherwise displaying nothing
remarkable.
I can scarcely entertain a doubt but these caves really were the
burying-places of the ancient Guanches, yet how they were approached I
cannot conceive; probably there might have been an entrance to them from
the interior of the country. I searched but my time was short and I could
find no traces of such. An interesting question here remains to be solved
and I trust some future traveller may be induced to attempt it.
There is only one other supposition I could frame on this subject, and to
this I am led from the fact of the bones lying so immediately in the
caves' mouths. Could a party of the Guanches, when so oppressed and so
cruelly treated by the Spaniards, have taken refuge by some means in
these caverns, and afterwards, from their retreat being cut off, have
found themselves unable to escape and have here perished miserably;
looking out of the cavern to the last for that assistance they were never
doomed to receive? If they had managed to enter these caves by a narrow
pathway running along the face of the cliffs, which the Spaniards
afterwards destroyed, such an occurrence might readily have taken place.
Having completed my examination I dismissed the boat and walked back to
Santa Cruz, from whence we sailed at five o'clock this evening.
CHAPTER 2. TO BAHIA AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.
ATMOSPHERICAL PHENOMENON AT SEA.
Nothing important occurred during the voyage from Tenerife to Bahia; but
one atmospherical phenomenon I think is worthy at a future day of further
enquiry.
I remarked constantly, just at sunset, in these latitudes, that the
eastern horizon was brilliantly illuminated with a kind of mock sunset.
This in a short time disappeared, to be soon succeeded by another similar
in character, but more faint. I observed at the same time, in the western
horizon, the regular sunset, and then two appearances, like those seen in
the east; perhaps this may be fully accounted for by a triple reflection,
as in the common theory of the rainbow.
LAND AT BAHIA.
August 17.
We came in sight of the coast of South America about noon, and dropped
anchor in the harbour of Bahia at four P.M.; and about half an hour after
I went on shore with Mr. Lushington, a person of the name of Wilson
taking us in his boat: there was a slave in the boat, and, not knowing
that he understood English, I asked Mr. Wilson several questions about
slaves in general, and he gave me a good deal of information on this
subject, mentioning among other things that the price of a good slave
here varied from 90 to 100 pounds, he happened to state that the slaves
were wretched in their own country, and that frequently large numbers
were sacrificed to their gods. I never saw so fine a burst of natural
indignation as the slave in the boat evinced at this statement; his lip
curled up with scorn, his dark eye grew vividly bright, and his frame
quivered as he made an impassioned reply in Portuguese; I could not
understand all that he said, but caught enough to know the tenor of it,
that "this was not the case; Englishmen or foreigners never visited his
country, so how could they know." It was not so much what he said but the
scornful bitterness of his manner that made an impression on me, not
easily to be effaced.
NIGHT WALK.
I took a night walk in the country this evening and experienced those
wild and undescribable feelings which accompany the first entrance into a
rich tropical country. I had arrived just towards the close of the rainy
season, when everything was in full verdure, and new to me. The luxuriant
foliage expanding in magnificent variety, the brightness of the stars
above, the dazzling brilliancy of the fireflies around me, the breeze
laden with balmy smells, and the busy hum of insect life making the deep
woods vocal, at first oppress the senses with a feeling of novelty and
strangeness till the mind appears to hover between the realms of truth
and falsehood.
THE TOWN OF BAHIA.
The town of Bahia looks very beautiful from the sea; but on entering you
find it dreadfully filthy. The stench of the lower town is horrible. Even
the President's palace is a dirty and wretched-looking building: his
salary, I understand, is 600 pounds a year. By the last returns the
population of the town was 120,000, 100,000 of whom were blacks. All the
burdens here are carried by slaves as there are no carts and the breed of
horses is small, being perfect ponies.
The exports are cotton and sugar--the cotton chiefly to Liverpool, the
sugar to all European countries but England. Their imports are English
cotton goods and hardware, also various manufactured goods from Germany.
The nuns are famed for the manufacture of artificial feathers and
flowers.
The fruit here is excellent, the oranges are particularly fine.
The merchants in the town are principally English and German. There is no
American house. Several have started but all who made the attempt have
failed.
You cannot penetrate any great distance into the interior as there are no
roads but only little pathways through the woods. The Indians are
frequently seen very near the town.
STATE OF SOCIETY.
This part of Brazil offered the curious spectacle of a great evil, which
has been long suffered to exist and is now advancing, gradually yet
surely, to that state which must entail inevitable destruction on the
existing Government of the country. I allude to the immense slave
population which, owing to a short-sighted policy, has been allowed to
increase so rapidly from the frequent and numerous importations that at
the present moment they are in the ratio of 10 to 1 to the white
population, to whom they are also, individually, immensely superior in
physical strength; the Brazilians being the most insignificant and feeble
race of men I have ever yet seen.
DANGERS FROM SLAVE POPULATION.
The blacks are perfectly aware of their own power, and about two years
ago had arranged a plan for seizing the town and murdering all the whites
with the exception of foreigners; which miscarried only by the affair
being discovered a few hours before it broke out. This plan was however
so wisely and boldly conceived, both as a whole and in detail, that it
alone affords the most conclusive evidence that the slave population in
this country are by no means deficient either in mental powers or
personal courage.
The Brazilians themselves are aware of the danger which threatens them,
and yet evince an extraordinary degree of supineness with regard to it.
They have indeed framed certain regulations as to the slaves being all
within their houses at an early hour of the evening, etc. etc., and these
they deem sufficient for their protection; yet to an unprejudiced
observer it would appear that, unless some much more effective measures
are adopted, within a few years from the present time the whole of this
fine country will be in the hands of the blacks: and indeed I think one
would be justified in concluding that the moment which produces a person
sufficiently intriguing again to stir up the slaves, and endowed with the
firmness and talent necessary to conduct an emeute of this nature, will
be the last of the Brazilian Empire.
POLITICAL CONDITION OF THE STATE.
It is evident from what I have before stated that the only hope the white
population can reasonably entertain of retaining their present position
must be in the most perfect union and concord amongst themselves, and
that, when a unity of design and action ceases to exist between the
different provinces, their fate is sealed. Yet this circumstance never
appears to enter into their calculations; and at this instant each state
is plotting its separation from the Empire. The inhabitants here openly
state their intention of revolting and declaring their independence, and
Sunday next is even mentioned as the day for the commencement of the
rising.*
(*Footnote. The revolt broke out on the 7th November 1837 but was
suppressed the following month. Great alarm existed lest the Negro slaves
should be induced to take their part likewise in the conflict between the
contending factions. Annual Register for 1837.)
It is really strange to one who stands by, a calm unconcerned spectator,
to observe men hurried on by the violence of faction to their own certain
destruction, and to behold them so entirely blinded by party spirit as
not to see that danger which stares them so openly in the face, that a
child could scarcely fail to detect it.
The Slave Trade, though nominally abolished, is actively pursued here,
eighty-three slaves having been landed just before my arrival, and
another cargo during my stay.
The slaves are not only a very superior race of men in point of physical
powers, but, as far as my experience of their habits went, I found them
very moral and honest. Their notions of religion were however curious.
Several were Christians nominally, but their Christianity consisted in
wearing a string of beads round the neck; and they seriously assured me
that those who wore beads went up to heaven after death, and that those
who did not went down under the waters.
I talked to many of them about their own land. None had forgotten it, but
they all expressed the most ardent desire to see it again. They call
themselves captives, not slaves, and are very punctilious upon this
point. They labour very hard here, generally in the town, paying their
masters eighteen-pence a day, and keeping the rest of their earnings for
themselves. The rate of labour must therefore be high; but they wear
scarcely any clothes, and their subsistence, which is jerked beef and
beans, costs but little. The slaves in the country are however all
obliged to work on their owners' plantations.
All the principal people in the town are concerned in the slave trade,
and their chief wealth consists in the number of slaves they possess;
therefore there is little chance of the trade being, for many years,
totally abolished.
With regard to the execution of the laws this country is much in the same
state as certain parts of Ireland. Homicide, and attempts at homicide, by
shooting, are frequent; but it is difficult, if not impossible, to
convict the offenders, for he who renders himself conspicuous in
prosecuting parties concerned in a murder assuredly gets shot at in his
turn.
IMPRESSIONS AND OBSERVATIONS AT SEA. REMARKS ON VOYAGE FROM BAHIA TO THE
CAPE.
August 25.
Re-embarked in the Beagle and sailed for the Cape of Good Hope.
September 10.
We had yesterday and all last night a gale of wind, succeeded this day by
a heavy fall of rain. The wind had raised a very high sea, but when the
rain began to fall I heard the captain and several of the officers remark
that the rain would lay the sea; for the result of their experience was,
"that a fall of rain always beats the sea down." What they had stated
would occur took place in this instance within two or three hours. This
shows forcibly what great results a slight force, continued for a long
time, will produce.
September 15.
Whilst standing on the deck of the Beagle this evening we remarked large
luminous spots in the water. They appeared to be about 12 inches in
circumference, were very numerous, and perfectly stationary. The light
they emitted was phosphorescent, but far brighter than I had ever before
witnessed; it was so vivid as to be distinctly visible for nearly a
quarter of a mile.
September 16.
We saw this morning an immense number of fin-backed whales, some of which
were quite close to the vessel. In the course of half an hour I counted
thirty of them. Could they have been feeding on the phosphorescent
animals we saw last night?
We are today about 600 miles from the Cape, and there is a strange
discordance amongst the elements. From the south-west comes a long and
heavy swell; a strong breeze is blowing from the east, and threatening
clouds spring upwards from the north. These omens have a meaning. Down to
the southward, somewhere off Cape Horn, there blows a furious gale. The
wind will draw round shortly to the northward. That is the interpretation
and the reading.
A swell like this one can only witness off the Cape of Good Hope. It was
to me a novel and magnificent sight. Uniform and lofty ridges of waves
advancing in rapid succession, and yet with so regular and undisturbed a
motion that one might easily fancy these great walls of water to be
stationary: yet onward they moved in uniform and martial order; whilst as
the ship rose upon their crests she seemed to hover for a moment over the
ocean in mid air. And now the wind drew round to the northward and it
blew almost a gale. The vessel felt its power and bent before it. It was
beautiful to watch the process of hand-reefing topsails and making the
vessel snug--the ready obedience to the word of command and the noiseless
discipline with which each duty was fulfilled. First had the men
clustered on the rigging like bees; then at the word to lay out they
fearlessly extended themselves along the yard-arm, and whilst they took
in the reefs the ship pitched and rolled so heavily that one felt anxious
for their safety: but there they swung securely between high heaven and
the sea.
SEA-BIRDS.
The sea-birds held their holiday in the stormy gale. The lordly and
graceful Albatross, whose motion is a very melody, swept screaming by
upon the blast. The smaller Cape pigeons followed us fast, passing and
repassing across the vessel's track. At last one of them spies a fragment
on the waters, which has been thrown overboard: a moment it hovers above,
then plunges down. But the other birds have seen it too; and all,
pouncing on the spot, move their wings confusedly and seem to run along
the waters with a rapid and eager motion. Now is there discord wild
amongst them. A screaming and diving, swimming and running, mingled with
a chattering noise. No sooner does one gain the morsel than another tears
it from him. Who will be the victor here? The Albatross; for he sweeps
triumphantly over all, swoops down, and with a scream scares off the
timid little multitude; whilst high above his head he holds his arching
wings; and now in pride and beauty he sits upon the waters and, drifting
fast astern, gradually fades in the twilight.
What wonder that a sailor is superstitious! Separated in early youth from
his home ere he has forgotten the ghost stories of childhood, and whilst
the young and simple heart still loves to dwell upon the marvellous, he
is placed in such scenes as these: in the dark night, amidst the din of
waves and storms, he hears wild shrieks upon the air, and by him float
huge forms, dim and mysterious, from which fancy is prone to build
strange phantoms; and oft from aged sailors he gathers legends and
wondrous tales suited to his calling; whilst the narrator's mysterious
tone and earnest voice and manner attest how firmly he himself believes
the story.
ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE. HIRE THE LYNHER.
September 21.
We came in sight of land yesterday evening, and spent the greater part of
the day in beating up False Bay to Simonstown, where we arrived about
half-past six P.M. I instantly landed in a shore-boat with Lieutenant
Lushington and Mr. Walker; and, having first hurried to Admiral Sir P.
Campbell with some letters I had to him, we forthwith started to ride to
Cape Town. Finding that a vessel for our expedition could be procured
here more readily and economically than at Swan River I determined on
making this my point of departure, and after diligent enquiry I finally
hired the Lynher, a schooner of about 140 tons, Henry Browse master, and
subsequently found every reason to be satisfied, both with the little
vessel and her commander.
EQUIPMENT AND PLANS. SAIL FOR HANOVER BAY.
My time was now wholly occupied in completing the preparations for our
future proceedings. I increased my party by a few additional hands of
good character, and thought myself fortunate in engaging amongst them
Thomas Ruston, a seaman who had already served on the Australian coast
under Captain King. On the 12th October I with great difficulty got my
affairs at Cape Town so arranged as to be able to embark in the evening,
and on the morning of the 13th we hove anchor and made sail.
The party now embarked consisted of:
Lieutenant Grey.
Lieutenant Lushington.
Mr. Walker, our Surgeon.
Mr. Powell, Surgeon.
Corporal R. Auger, Corporal John Coles, and Private Mustard of the Corps
of Sappers and Miners.
J.C. Cox, a Stock-Keeper.
Thomas Ruston, a Sailor who had been on the coast of Australia in the
Mermaid with Captain King.
Evan Edwards, a Sailor.
Henry Williams and R. Inglesby, Shoemakers.
There were besides on board a captain, a mate, seven men, and a boy.
The livestock I took from the Cape consisted altogether of thirty-one
sheep, nineteen goats, and six dogs. The dogs were as follows: one
greyhound; one dog bred between a greyhound and a foxhound; one between a
greyhound and a sheepdog; a bull-terrier; a Cape wolf-dog; and a useful
nondescript mongrel.
RE-EMBARKATION FOR HANOVER BAY.
The plan that I had finally resolved on adopting was:
To proceed in the first instance to Hanover Bay, there to select a good
spot on which to form a temporary encampment; and, having landed the
stock, to despatch Lieutenant Lushington with Cox and Williams in the
vessel to Timor for ponies.
PLANS ON LANDING.
I selected Cox and Williams for this service because the former was used
to the management of horses on board vessels, and the latter
understanding Dutch was well calculated to act as interpreter at Timor.
During their absence I intended to practise the party in making short
explorations in different directions.
Upon the return of the vessel I intended to move the whole party to some
convenient spot to be chosen during their absence, then to advance,
attended only by Coles, and to fix upon the next spot on our route which
I designed to halt at. This plan I intended to adhere to as much as
possible throughout the whole expedition, namely, never to move the party
from one place of halt until I had chosen the next one. We bore with us
tools and instruments of every description; so that we not only were
fully capable of maintaining ourselves but could literally, if occasion
had required it, have founded the nucleus of a colony.
Great then was my joy when all my preparations were completed and I felt
the vessel gliding swiftly from Table Bay into that vast ocean at the
other extremity of which lay the land I so longed to see, and to which I
was now bound with the ardent hope of opening the way for the conversion
of a barren wilderness into a fertile garden.
Part of my plan was not only to introduce all useful animals that I
possibly could into this part of Australia, but also the most valuable
plants of every description. For this purpose, a collection had been made
at Tenerife by Mr. Walker, under my direction, and another in South
America,* including the seeds of the cotton plant. From the Cape and from
England I had also procured other useful plants, and had planned that the
vessel, on quitting Timor with the horses, should be filled in every
vacant space with young cocoa-nut trees and other fruits, together with
useful animals such as goats and sheep, in addition to the stock we
conveyed from the Cape.
(*Footnote. We had been able to introduce several useful plants into the
Cape; amongst others the South American Yam, which, owing to the quality
of the potatoes and their great fluctuations in price, will eventually be
very serviceable to the colonists, more especially for the use of
whalers.)
CHAPTER 3. FROM THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO HANOVER BAY.
NATURAL HISTORY.
FORSTER'S PACHYPTILA (Pachyptila vittata.)
October 16.
I shot a female petrel; it had a nail planted in the heel, but no thumb;
the bill was hooked at the end, the extremity of which seemed to consist
of a distinct piece, articulated with the remainder; the nostrils were
united, and formed a tube laid on the back of the upper mandible, hence
it belonged to the family of Petrels (Procellariae.)
Its temperature was 94 degrees.
Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 3 inches.
Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 1 foot 2.4 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail, 4 inches.
Length of beak, 1.45 inches.
Length of foot, 1.55 inches.
Breadth across body, 2.3 inches.
Colour of beak and legs black; body white underneath; general colour
above, a light bluish slate, which grows darker in the head and wing
covers; tail tipped with black; the four first wing feathers tinged with
black.
CAPE PIGEONS.
I also shot this afternoon three Cape pigeons (Procellaria capensis)
white underneath, spotted black and white above.
FIRST SPECIMEN--Female.
Temperature, 98 1/2 degrees.
Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 11.3 inches.
Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 6 inches.
Length from tip of beak, 1.5 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail,4.1 inches.
Length of foot, 2.3 inches.
Breadth across body, 3.2 inches.
SECOND SPECIMEN.
Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 5 inches.
Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 5 inches.
Length from tip of beak, 1.5 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail, 4 inches.
Length of foot, 2.3 inches.
Breadth across body, 3 inches.
THIRD SPECIMEN--Female.
Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet 5.5 inches.
Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 1 foot 4.6 inches.
Length from tip of beak, 1.3 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail, 4.6 inches.
Length of foot, 2.2 inches.
Breadth across body, 3.4 inches.
Two species of insects were found in these Cape pigeons.
The only difference I have been able to observe between the male and
female of these birds is, that the male has the black spots of rather a
deeper hue.
October 21. Latitude 38 degrees 15 south; longitude 35 degrees 53 minutes
east.
From a variety of observations I am able to bear testimony to the
correctness of a fact that has been before noticed, namely, that the
Medusae invariably live in families. This single circumstance is
remarkable in connection with other points of natural history since it
will tend to explain the reason of certain classes of Petrels
(Procellariae) only visiting particular parts of the ocean.
Sunday October 22. Latitude 37 degrees 44 minutes south; longitude 38
degrees 00 east.
Caught two small animals, one closely resembling a small shrimp (Penaeus)
but having the head covered with a most beautiful purple shield. I kept
this alive in a jug. The other in size and appearance exactly like a
purple grape (Hyalea) with a greenish tinge at one extremity surrounding
an aperture, and a distinct aperture at the other extremity. It was 0.4
inches in diameter, and had the power of emitting a phosphorescent light.
I have since this period found several varieties of this animal; which,
when it expands itself, closely resembles an insect, and has little
wings. Further on will be found a sketch of these animals in their
expanded state. (See illustration Hyalea figure 1.)
THE ALBATROSS (Diomedea exulans).
We caught four of these birds yesterday, from which I made the following
measurements:
FIRST SPECIMEN. Weight, 19 1/2 pounds.
Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet 2 inches.
Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 0.5 inches.
Length of beak, 6.8 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail, 10.0 inches.
Length of foot, 7.6 inches.
Length of wing, 4 feet 8 inches.
Height from ground, 2 feet 10 inches.
Temperature 98 degrees, the thermometer placed under the tongue during
life. These measurements were all made during the lifetime of the bird.
SECOND SPECIMEN. Weight, 15 1/2 pounds.
Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet.
Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 3 feet 11 inches.
Length of beak, 6.6 inches.
Height from ground to top of head, 2 feet 4 inches.
Temperature 98 degrees.
THIRD SPECIMEN. The largest bird of the kind I have hitherto seen.
Length from tip of wing to tip of wing, 10 feet 8 inches.
Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 6 inches.
Breadth across the body, 8 inches.
Length of bill, 6.7 inches.
Length of foot, 7.5 inches.
FOURTH SPECIMEN. The same size as the second.
Length of beak, 6.3 inches.
Length of foot, 6.9 inches.
The beak of each of these birds during lifetime was of a beautiful light
rose colour; their voice was something like that of a goose, but rather
louder, deeper, and hoarser. If during life the beak was pressed with the
finger it became quite white, and it was not until the pressure had for
some time been removed that the colour returned. The specimens I have
described above (all males) were quite white underneath; the white above
being speckled with black spots and streaks, sometimes changing to a
brownish hue; the wings were black. We obtained also a female bird with
the following measurements, which has been described as a distinct
species:
Length from tip to tip of wing, 7 feet 2 inches.
Length from tip of tail to tip of beak, 3 feet 5.5 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail, 9 inches.
Length of beak, 4.5 inches.
Length of foot, 5 inches.
Legs pale flesh colour; beak, black, with a brown-coloured streak on each
side of the lower mandible; the whole body of a dirty black colour,
acquiring a lighter tinge underneath.
October 30.
I shot two male specimens of this last bird: the only distinction between
them and the female was that they were rather smaller, and had a white
streak instead of a light brown one on each side of the lower mandible.
FIRST SPECIMEN--Male. Weight, 5 1/2 pounds.
Length from tip of wing to tip of wing 6 feet 6 inches.
Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 2 feet 6 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail, 11 inches.
Length from root to tip of beak, 4 inches.
Length from root to tip of foot, 5 inches.
Length from root to tip of wing, 2 feet 10 inches.
SECOND SPECIMEN--Male. Weight 7 pounds.
Length from tip to tip of wing, 6 feet 9 inches.
Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 2 feet 10 inches.
Length of tail, 10.6 inches.
Length of beak, 4.7 inches.
Length of foot, 5 inches.
Length of wing, 3 feet.
All the three specimens of this species had a distinct although minute
claw, representing a thumb, upon one leg, thus apparently forming a link
between the genus Procellaria and the genus Diomedea.
PACHYPTILA VITTATA.
Ash-grey above; white in the under parts; quills, tail-feathers at the
tip, and band on the wings when expanded, brownish-black.
Length from tip to tip of wing, 2 feet.
Length from tip of beak to tip of tail, 10 inches.
Length from root to tip of tail, 4.3 inches.
Length of beak, 1 inch.
Length of foot, 1.5 inches.
Length of wing, 10.5 inches.
This bird is of the same species as the one I procured on the 16th of
October. I shot it about nine A.M. They are very numerous in these
latitudes; their flight resembles much that of a snipe. The name by which
they are known to the sailors is the whale-bird; they appear to take
their food upon the wing, for I have never yet seen them sit upon the
waters even for a single second, although I have observed them
frequently, and at all hours; but night and day they hurry on with the
same restless, rapid flight, sometimes going in large flocks; and I have
never upon shore seen so many birds assembled upon a few square miles as
I have sometimes here observed in the open ocean. I never heard them
utter any cry or sound.
I saw but few Cape pigeons (Procellaria capensis) after passing the 40th
degree of longitude, and neither Cape pigeons nor albatrosses after
passing the 95th degree of longitude, and 32nd parallel of latitude. I
have never seen a petrel or bird of the family Longipennes discharge its
oily fluid at anyone who worried or attacked it; but have almost
invariably seen it involuntarily eject it,when hurt or frightened.
THE ALBATROSS.
November 9.
I caught four albatrosses with a fishing-line; one of them was a female,
the first I had seen. I observed no marked difference between her and
males of the same species, for I have found them vary much in the dark
shades upon their feathers.
I have yet found no bird of this family whose foot was not longer than
its beak.
DIOMEDEA EXULANS--Female.
Length from tip of wing to tip of wing,10 feet 10 inches.
Length from tip of wing, 4 feet 10 inches.
From tip of beak to tip of tail, 4 feet 9 inches.
Length of beak, 7.2 inches.
Length of tail, 9 inches.
Length of foot, 7.5 inches.
The black and brown marks on this bird were darker than the corresponding
ones on the males.
I am inclined to think that the chief characteristic that distinguishes
the females from the males in the family Longipennes is their greater
size: my opinion is grounded upon the following tables, drawn up from
careful measurements, made by myself.
(@@@TABLE OF FAMILY LONGIPENNES)
In each of these three instances the female is larger than the males;
they are the only ones I am able to adduce which bear upon this point.
November 11. South latitude 30 degrees 47 minutes; east longitude 100
degrees 21 minutes 15 seconds.
Being a calm, I gave the men leave to bathe this afternoon, and was one
of the first overboard myself. Within an hour and a half after we had
done bathing, a cry of a shark was raised, and in truth there was the
monster (the first we had seen). I mention this fact as tending to
support what I have often heard stated, namely, that a shark's sense of
smell is so keen that, if men ever bathe in seas where they are found, a
shark is almost sure to appear directly afterwards. This really occurred
in the present instance.
We repeatedly caught many little animals which I believe are the VELELLA
of Lamarck. They consist of a flat oval cartilage, on which they float;
there is a mouth in the inferior surface of this surrounded with many
tentacula; on its superior surface is a crest which remains above water,
and the wind blowing against it turns the animal round; they thus swim
with a rotatory motion; the crest is placed obliquely to the length of
the oval cartilage, and this position of it perhaps assists in producing
the motion; the crest is perfectly transparent, but marked with little
striae; the oval cartilage is marked with concentric striae, which
indicate the lines of its growth; in some this cartilage is transparent,
in others quite blue.
November 12. South latitude 30 degrees 11; east longitude 100 degrees 31
minutes 30 seconds.
We caught several beautiful animals this day, of the Medusae kind
(Diphya). (See Illustration 3 Diphya, Sp.)
Figure 1 represents a section through one of them, the size of life: the
bag (1) is of a delicate bright amber colour. The long tentacula issuing
out are upwards of a foot in length and of a bright flesh colour.
(Illustration 3)
Figure 2 is a section across the animal.
Figure 3 represents the mouth of the large opening at c, d, as if one was
looking down into it.
Figure 4 upper part; Figure 5 lower; and Figure 6 the perfect animal.
Between c d apparently lay the entrance to its mouth; in the little bag
marked (3) its long tentacula were concealed, and below these lay a
little gut marked (4) which communicated with the point (L) by a small
canal: (1) was its swimming apparatus, and by alternate contractions and
expansions of this, it took in and expelled water, and thus acquired a
rapid motion, the pointed end (L) moving forwards.
Its length was 1.7 inches.
Breadth, 0.7 inches.
Thickness, 0.35 inches.
Temperature the same as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
The sketch Illustration 4 Diphya, Sp. gives a faint idea of the most
beautiful animal of this kind which I have ever seen. It was so delicate
that, with the slightest touch, portions of it came off, hence the
specimen we obtained is I fear useless. The body consisted only of a
central canal, to which were attached a number of gelatinous bags, with
large lateral openings, so large that other zoophytes were caught in
them, and apparently annoyed the animal; who continued throwing water out
until it expelled them. The whole was surmounted by a number of the most
beautiful rose-coloured tentacula: I counted eleven on it, and found four
more that were torn off, but there may have been more. Its top, when
looked into closely, resembled some of the sea anemones; and inside of
the large bright orange-coloured tentacula were placed circular rows of
smaller ones. Its body was quite transparent, with the exception of the
central canal, which was of a milk-white colour, and terminated in a
small sac of the same hue.
It moved in a direction opposite to the tentacula, by taking in water at
the lateral openings of the bags, in the position in which it is
represented; then bending these towards the tentacula, and expelling it
with great violence.
Temperature the same as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Length of body (to tentacula from root of tail-like canal) 1.8 inches.
Length of tentacula, 1.2 inches.
Length of tail-like canal, 0.45 inches.
Breadth, 1.1 inches.
Thickness, 0.8 inches.
Long tentacula, flesh-coloured; large tentacula, rose-coloured; lateral
bags, tinged with clear amber; the rest of the animal perfectly
transparent.
We this evening caught several curious little animals (Clio ?) which when
taken out of the water appeared like small balls of the same matter as
that of which a slug is composed. Presently a little head peered out,
then the body expanded itself, and finally two little things like wings
were spread forth, formed of a fine membrane; they moved these very
rapidly, and swam with great velocity.
We caught several small crabs, and two kinds of shells, of a beautiful
purple colour. (Janthina exigua.) These were very small; I have preserved
several of them.
Figures 1, 2, and 3 represent different views of an animal (Salpa)
slightly electrical, that we caught this evening. Figure 1 is its
appearance, one side being up; Figure 2 when the other side is turned up;
Figure 3 is the side view of it.
I have never before seen one of the kind electrical. Temperature the same
as the water, 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Length, 1.5 inches.
Breadth, 0.6 inches.
Thickness, 0.3 inches.
Figure 1. The intestinal canal terminates in a little coloured bag,
generally of a bluish tinge; there is an opening at each extremity, one a
little to the left of the little bag, the other, as shown in Figures 3
and 1.
November 13. Latitude 30 degrees 7 minutes south; longitude 100 degrees
50 minutes 10 seconds east.
Figure 1. Represents a little shell (Hyalea) which was caught this day.
Figure 2. One of the tentacula of the animal I imagine to be the
Physsophora rosacea. The point which is seen obtruding at the base
resembles a little nerve; it runs the whole way down the tentacula.
Figure 3. A little shrimp-like animal (Erichthus vitreus) caught on the
14th November, latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude 101
degrees 32 minutes east. Its head was protected by a shield, such as is
shown in the figure.
We caught this day several other Acalepha, two of which were of the
wonderful genus DIPHYA. I yesterday drew a coloured figure of the lower
part of one of these animals.
This animal in its perfect state (such as we found it in today) consists
of two individuals, the part of one being encased in a cavity of the
other. Figures 4 and 5 Illustration 4 will give a correct idea of the way
in which this junction is effected. The least motion separates these two
parts, and each forms a perfect animal, which performs all the functions
of life. This is the more extraordinary, as the containing animal is
furnished with an organ not possessed by the contained, and which in
their united state is used by both. Figure 5. From the little bag (f) at
the bottom of the cavity (g) the receiver produces a chaplet, which
traverses the canal in the received marked (2) in Figure 6, and which is
here drawn the size of life, was sometimes expanded to the length of one
foot eight inches. This organ, according to M. Cuvier, is composed of
ovaries, tentacula, and suckers.
The swimming apparatus, marked (1) and (4) in Figure 6, act
simultaneously; they are of a bright amber colour, and their mouth (a)
and (h) are closed with little valves, nearly invisible even when in
motion; the points round their upper aperture seem to form the hinges for
these. In twenty seconds I counted seventy expansions and dilatations of
this apparatus. The chaplet and the bag that holds it are flesh-coloured;
the rest of the body is gelatinous and diaphanous. They live in families,
and swim with great rapidity in the same manner as the other Acalepha.
Caught also shells and crabs of the same kind as yesterday.
November 14. Latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude 101 degrees
2 minutes east.
Physsophora rosacea, Cuvier, see below. We caught another animal of the
same kind as the one taken on the 12th of November, and figured in
Illustration 7. It was so delicate that I did not measure it for fear of
its falling to pieces, but it appeared to be exactly the same size as the
former one.
Its circle of large tentacula were of a bright pink, and were fifteen in
number; inside this circle was a smaller one of the same number of
shorter tentacula, which were not quite so bright a pink colour; in the
centre of these were placed organs of a very extraordinary nature,
apparently quite round, and not thicker than the very finest silk; they
were arranged exactly in the form of a corkscrew, and from the beauty of
their mechanism, the animal could press fold against fold, and thus
render them less than a quarter of an inch in length, and I watched it
almost instantaneously expand them to the length of nine inches. After
having observed the animal closely for an hour I am writing this with it
before me, alive in a large glass bottle of salt water, and measuring
what I put down. The manner in which it expands these organs is by first
uncoiling those folds nearest the body, and afterwards those most remote;
so that when folded up it looks like a corkscrew with the folds pressed
close together, and when expanded, like a long straight thin bit of
flesh-coloured silk, with a little corkscrew of the same material at the
end. The larger tentacula are shaped like the trunk of an elephant, and
their extremity is furnished with a very delicate organ with which they
can catch anything, and, if touched, they instantly turn some of these
tentacula, which they have the power of moving in any direction, to the
point so touched. They are not electrical: the lateral bags have a slight
tinge of a bright amber colour. These animals sustain themselves in the
water by means of the little bag marked (a) in the figure, which floats
on the surface full of air, they there swim in the manner before
described. I afterwards observed very minute globules, or lumps, in the
long silk-like tentacula. When expanded these were very distinct.
Latitude 29 degrees 26 minutes south; longitude 101 degrees 32 minutes
east.
We caught several small shells (Janthina exigua) this afternoon:
Illustration 9 represents one of them, with the string of air bubbles
attached, by means of which they swim on the water. They appear not to be
able to free themselves from this mass of bubbles: every shell I have yet
found floating in the Indian Ocean possesses these bubbles in a greater
or less degree; they were of a purple colour. I have seen the common
garden snail in England emit a nearly similar consistency: they also emit
a blue or purple liquid, which colours anything it touches.
The animals of the barnacles (Pentalasmis) attached to these shells
assume their purple colours, while the shell remains nearly pure white.
This afternoon we caught an animal (Glaucus, Illustration 10) I had not
before seen. It seemed to represent the order reptilia in the Mollusca,
being sluggish in movement, its eyes distinct, sensitive to the touch,
its head much resembling a lizard in appearance, and having a very strong
unpleasant smell when taken out of the water. During the hour I observed
it in a bucket it remained sluggishly floating on the top, and
occasionally swimming by moving its arms slowly along the surface. The
first three that I saw pass the vessel I imagined to be feathers floating
on the water.
Its description is as follows:
Length from head to tail, a c 1.8 inches.
Length from head to root of tail, a b 0.85 inches.
Length from head to first arm 0.2 inches.
Length from head to second arm 0.45 inches.
Length from head to third arm 0.7 inches.
1st arm.
From centre of back to end of round part, d e 0.3 inches.
From e to the end of short tentacula, e f 0.3 inches.
Ditto to long ditto, e g 0.75 inches.
Diameter of round part and attached tentacula 0.4 inches.
2nd arm.
From centre of back to end of tentacula. 0.4 inches.
3rd arm, do. do. 0.25 inches.
Breadth of body between the two first arms 0.13 inches.
Thickness 0.25 inches.
General colour of body, indigo blue, of a darkish tinge; down the centre
of the back a white streak, terminating at the root of the tail; sides
blue, tail blue, quite white underneath, its belly altogether resembling
that of a frog; tail tapering to a point.
1st arm. 26 tentacula attached to the rounded paddle-shaped part of this
arm, the centre tentacle more than twice the length of the others. These
tentacula were so delicate that at the slightest touch they fell off.
Those nearest the body were so small as to be almost imperceptible,
gradually increasing in length as they approach the centre, and then
decreasing to the other side. Centre of paddle-shaped part white,
tentacula blue and white, fringed with dark blue at the extremity.
2nd arm. 18 tentacula to this, centre ones the largest. Same colour as
first arm.
3rd arm. 12 tentacula, not forming such a regular circle as on the two
first arms, and apparently issuing directly from a very short limb
attached to the body.
The general appearance of the skin was that of a frog. It had the power
of contracting itself considerably.
Caught a slug-like animal (Holothuria) this evening, or rather more
closely resembling a caterpillar.
Length from head to root of tail 0.7 inches.
Length of tail (or rather gelatinous protuberance) 0.25 inches.
Breadth (broadest part at root of tail) 0.22 inches.
Narrowest part (near head) 0.15 inches.
Length of head 0.12 inches.
Head of light red colour, mouth apparent, motion of head like a
caterpillar's when touched, shape cylindrical, body gelatinous,
intestines apparent and full.
November 16. Longitude 102 degrees 40 minutes east; latitude 28 degrees 5
to 6 minutes south.
Since we have passed the 95th parallel of longitude, and 32nd of latitude
up to the present moment we have been out of the region of birds, for
during the whole of this period I have seen but two, one of which, a
Petrel, has this moment visited us. We have however seen more
Sea-jellies, Acalepha and Mollusca than before, and those of a much more
beautiful kind. Thus nature has made up for the deficiency of one tribe
of animals by the profuseness with which she has distributed another.
November 18. Latitude 26 degrees 57 minutes south; longitude 105 degrees
22 minutes east.
We caught a crustaceous animal (Phyllosoma, see Illustration 11) which
was perfectly transparent; it was furnished with twelve legs on what I
considered the hinder part of its body, and four antennae in front, which
have their tips of a bright pink colour, and two eye peduncles by their
side, which terminate in little bags containing some blue matter (their
eyes). It was furnished also with two legs underneath. These are just
shown in the figure near the centre of the body, and between those
underneath the insect there was a slight projection, with two little
lumps on each side. In this projecting part there appeared to be an
opening. When it was taken out of the water it stood upright on its legs
and crawled a little like a large beetle, but soon died. In the water it
swam with the legs, and the last joint appeared to be feathered. It will
be seen that there is a great irregularity in the position of the legs of
this insect. The specimen appeared to me to be in some respects
imperfect; but I figured it exactly as it was, without blindly guessing
at its perfect state. It was not thicker than the thinnest wafer. The
back was marked with curved lines, exactly in the manner I have
represented. It shrank instantly when touched. The two last joints of the
long legs were furnished with thorn-like spikes.
Length of tail 0.37 inches.
of the body 0.2 inches.
of the thorax and head 0.3 inches.
of the entire animal 1.4 inches.
Breadth of body 0.62 inches.
Ditto of thorax 0.51 inches.
Length of third leg 1.9 inches.
Length of second leg 1.7 inches.
Length of hindermost leg 0.6 inches.
Length of eyes, peduncles 0.4 inches.
We caught a second animal of exactly the same size as the one figured,
but apparently much more perfect. Each of its tentacula terminates in a
small feathering tip when it is in the water, like the little figures at
the side, and by the help of which they swim; these have a horny feel to
the touch, are destitute of smell, and look like a transparent scale when
they lie in your hand.
We also caught this day some little transparent shells (Cuvieria) of a
cylindrical form, and blunt at the end; they put out two little fins with
which they swam.
I was unfortunately too unwell this day to describe all the other
specimens we caught, which were numerous. The sea was full of small
acalepha, and in the midst of a shoal of these a whale was seen.
November 19. Latitude 25 degrees 50 minutes south; longitude 106 degrees
22 minutes east.
Birds first re-appeared again. I saw a large flock of two kinds, but was
not near enough to ascertain what they were. I have before noted the fact
that almost at the exact point where the southern birds of the family
Longipennes disappeared those sea-jellies (acalepha) which have the power
of stinging, began to show themselves; previously to our passing this
point I had not seen one: I saw several however today at no great
distance from this flock of birds.
We saw float by this afternoon one of the acalepha, apparently about two
feet long and shaped generally like a water snake; its tail had fins like
that of an eel, of a purplish tinge; I could distinctly see its head and
various vessels in its interior for it was quite transparent. We had no
net ready but threw a stick with a piece of string attached to it, the
string passed under it but in pulling up cut through it as though it had
been jelly.
Caught an animal (Cymothoa) shaped exactly like a woodlouse:
Length 0.4 inches.
Length of antennae 0.15 inches.
Breadth of body 0.12 inches.
It had six legs, and a tail-like fin behind on each side, and nine rings
on its back so that it could roll itself almost into a ball, these rings
extended no farther than from its head to within 0.12 inches of its
hinder extremity; colour very pale blue down the back, bright prussian
blue on each side; it crawled about when taken out of the water, and
lived for some time; its fins, or fin-like legs, when it thus crawled
about, were folded under its tail; eyes distinct.
MOLLUSCA.
November 20. Latitude 25 degrees 14 minutes south; longitude 106 degrees
49 minutes east.
A shell, Janthina exigua, was caught this evening, 8 hours 30 minutes
P.M.; when brought directly out of the water into a room the temperature
of the animal was 80 degrees 5'; of room 76 degrees; colour, dark violet
purple over half the opening and lower part of the shell, so that it
gives the animal the appearance of having been upon a purple-coloured
place; this colour then dies gradually away, and in the smallest whorl of
the shell becomes almost white. They had the power of emitting drops of a
violet colour, and when put into spirits a great quantity of this issued
from the mouth of the shells. We had one evening before caught a pair of
shells of the same species, but much smaller, at exactly the same hour;
in both instances each pair were caught at the same haul of the net.
November 23. Latitude 21 degrees 43 minutes south; longitude 109 degrees
43 east. 8 1/2 P.M.
FLYING FISH.
A flying-fish (Exocetus) flew on board. Its temperature was 74 degrees.
The colour of its iris was black.
Length from mouth to end of curve between forks of tail 10 inches.
From mouth to commencement of wing-like fin 2.7 inches.
Length of wing fin 6.7 inches.
of dorsal fin 2.0 inches.
of pectoral fin 2.2 inches.
of anal fin 1.3 inches.
of upper fork of tail 2.2 inches.
of lower ditto 3.2 inches.
Length from mouth to end of gill 2.2 inches.
Breadth of wing fin 6 inches.
13 spines in each of these wings.
Breadth between eyes 0.11 inches.
Depth of fish 1.6 inches.
Breadth of thickness 1.6 inches.
Diameter of the eye 0.65 inches.
Under-jaw projecting; sides, pale green; back, blackish-green; belly,
white; five first spines in wing fin, greenish; others white; wing-fin
dark green with a transparent band running nearly up the centre from the
back; pectoral fin, transparent, with a dark green spot, nearly an inch
square, about the centre of its lowest extremity; tail, dark green, edges
light.
November 26. Latitude 16 degrees 32 south; longitude 117 degrees east.
After crossing about the 22nd parallel of south latitude we fairly
entered into the region of flying fish, and dolphins as they are commonly
called; tropic birds were now also frequently seen, which had not up to
this moment been the case; we often also met hereabouts with a
dark-coloured bird with bronzed wings, having a cry precisely like a
Snipe. I know not the name of this bird. The more beautiful and largest
Sea-jellies (acalepha) had now disappeared, although the more minute ones
were as numerous as ever.
REMARKS.
It therefore appears to me that we have, in coming from the southward to
this point, passed through three great regions, or zones, of animal life,
one extending from as far to the southward as I have yet been, namely 36
degrees south latitude to 31 degrees south latitude; this zone was
inhabited by numerous Sea-jellies (acalepha) of the smaller kind, by
porpoises and whales, as well as by immense varieties of the Petrels or
Procellariae.
The second zone extending from 31 degrees south to 22 degrees south
latitude was inhabited by immense numbers of the larger and more
beautiful kind of Sea-jellies (acalepha) particularly by those that have
the power of stinging. Within this zone I saw but one whale, one shoal of
porpoises, and not a single one of the long-winged water birds or
Petrels; in fact I but once in the whole of this distance saw any birds;
there were also here a great variety and numbers of Sea-jellies
(acalepha) of the smaller kinds. Do then the larger acalepha in this zone
perform the office of the birds in the more southern one, and prey upon
the smaller species of their own kind?
The third zone is the one with which I have commenced the journal of this
day.
WATER SNAKES.
November 29. Latitude 15 degrees 26 minutes 32 seconds south; longitude
122 degrees 3 minutes east.
We saw six or seven water snakes (Hydrus) this day, all about three feet
long, of a dirty yellow colour, with black stripes, the head black, they
were furnished with fins like an eel, were of a very graceful form, and
moved on the water exactly like a snake, with the head a little elevated;
when they dived they turned up on their backs before they sank: we caught
one of these snakes, also a moth and butterfly. A large bat (Pteropus ?)
flew about the vessel this evening and pitched several times on the boat
astern. I once struck it as it passed me, it appeared much fatigued; we
were 150 miles from the main and thirty from the nearest small sandy
island.
SHARKS.
We caught two sharks today; the sailors said that they saw fourteen or
fifteen little sharks swimming round one of these, and that when the bait
was thrown into the water and made a noise some of these swam into her
mouth: directly after they had told me this the shark was caught. I had
it opened and four young ones were found inside, two had never left the
uterus, for they were attached to it at the time, the other two were not
so attached, and were larger than the former, and swam well and strongly
when put into the water: whether or not they had ever left the mother I
cannot of course say. I have preserved two in spirits, one that was
attached and one that was not; two intestinal worms were found in the
stomach of one of the sharks.
CHAPTER 4. HANOVER BAY.
NEW AND DANGEROUS SHOAL.
November 29.
This morning at twenty minutes after nine, when in latitude 15 degrees 26
minutes 32 seconds and longitude 121 degrees 55 east, we suddenly made
the very unpleasant discovery that we were in the midst of shoals, owing
to some negligence in our lookout. This was not found out until we were
hemmed in between two, one lying not more than fifty fathoms from our
larboard quarter, and the other about three times the distance on the
starboard beam. I went up to the mast-head, and distinctly saw the rocks,
not more than two or three feet under water on the larboard side. We
fortunately passed through this danger without accident; and, directly we
cleared it, found bottom at twenty-five fathoms, coarse sand and shells.
RED ISLAND.
December 2.
I was called at four A.M. to keep my watch, and, as soon as I had
ascertained that the men composing it were all present and at their
stations, I went up aloft, and as I anticipated a speck of land soon
appeared above the horizon. This was Red Island. Other points shortly
rose behind it: hill after hill came up into view, at a distance looking
like islands, which indeed many of them were; but, on a nearer approach,
the parts connecting the others became visible, and the mainland of this
vast insular continent gradually revealed itself to our anxious eyes.
MAKING THE LAND.
We stood on until eleven A.M.; but in making land there always rests a
certain degree of anxiety upon the mind of the seaman and traveller, more
especially when that land is imperfectly known. As there appeared to be
every chance of our losing the sea-horizon, and consequently our noon
observation, if we stood on and the breeze continued, our course was
changed to the other tack until that hour; and then having correctly
ascertained our position, Red Island bearing south-east by east, distance
8 miles, we once more stood in for the land.
Red Island is small, rocky, and of no great elevation; its colour is a
very dark red; the sides are precipitous, and in its centre is a clump of
trees which cannot be seen until you have run by the island, as it falls
gradually from the south-west to the north-east, so that the north-east
side is the least elevated. We sounded when about seven miles to the
north-west of it, and found bottom at twenty-five fathoms, of green sandy
mud.
The sandbank laid down on the Admiralty charts to the north-east of Red
Island is small and barren; it is very low, and at some distance looks
like a white rock in the water; being apparently an island formed of the
same rock as the former, and topped with quartz or white sand. In
entering Hanover Bay, or Port George the Fourth, a good course is to run
nearly midway between this and Red Island. At sunset we anchored off
Entrance Island (Port George the Fourth) in twenty-five fathoms water.
ARRIVAL OFF THE COAST OF AUSTRALIA. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY FROM
SHIP-BOARD.
At the first streak of dawn I leant over the vessel's side to gaze upon
those shores I had so longed to see. I had not anticipated that they
would present any appearance of inviting fertility; but I was not
altogether prepared to behold so arid and barren a surface as that which
now met my view. In front of me stood a line of lofty cliffs,
occasionally broken by sandy beaches; on the summits of these cliffs and
behind the beaches rose rocky sandstone hills, very thinly wooded. Whilst
I mused on this prospect, all hands were busied in getting the vessel
under weigh, which was soon accomplished; but there was little or no
wind, and the ship lay almost motionless upon the waters.
LAND AT HIGH BLUFF POINT. WALK TO HANOVER BAY.
By ten o'clock however we were abreast of High Bluff Point and, as there
appeared to be little chance of our having even a gentle breeze for some
time, I determined to land with a party at the Point, and to walk from
thence to Hanover Bay, where on our arrival we could make a signal to the
vessel for a boat to reconvey us on board. By the adoption of this course
I hoped to be able at once to select a spot affording water and forage,
in the neighbourhood of which the sheep and stores might be landed; the
vessel could then proceed without delay to the Island of Timor to procure
the requisite number of ponies for our expedition, and, if she made a
quick passage there and back, I trusted, notwithstanding the numerous
unforeseen delays that had arisen, we might yet be able to start for the
interior before the rainy season set in.
LANDING AND DISTRESS FOR WANT OF WATER ON THE ROUTE.
The necessary orders were soon given: the boat was lowered and, whilst
the party prepared themselves, I went below to arrange with the master
the precise spot at which the vessel was to anchor in order that no
mistake might occur upon so vital a point. This done, I returned once
more on deck, and found all ready for departure.
The party to land consisted of Mr. Lushington, Mr. Walker, and three men
who were selected to accompany us. I also brought away three of the dogs,
to whom I was anxious to give a run after their long confinement on
board.
The shore for which we pulled was not more than half a mile distant, and
we soon gained the edge of a sandy beach, on which I sprang, eagerly
followed by the rest; every eye beaming with delight and hope,
unconscious as we were how soon our trials were to commence.
DISTRESSING MARCH.
I soon found that we had landed under very unfavourable circumstances.
The sun was intensely hot. The long and close confinement on board a
small vessel had unfitted us all for taking any violent or continued
exercise without some previous training, and the country in which we had
landed was of a more rocky and precipitous character than any I had ever
before seen; indeed I could not more accurately describe the hills than
by saying that they appeared to be the ruins of hills; composed as they
were of huge blocks of red sandstone, confusedly piled together in loose
disorder, and so overgrown with spinifex and scrub that the interstices
wore completely hidden, and into these one or other of the party was
continually slipping and falling.
The trees were small, and their foliage so scant and slight that they
afforded no shelter whatever from the burning rays of the sun; which
appeared to strike up again from the sandstone with redoubled heat, so
that it was really painful to touch or to stand upon a bare rock: we
therefore kept moving onwards in the hope of meeting with some spot
favourable for a halting place; but the difficult nature of the ground
which we had to cross rendered our progress slow and oppressively
laborious.
A feeling of thirst and lassitude such as I had never before experienced
soon began to overcome all of us; for such a state of things we had
unfortunately landed quite unprepared, having only two pints of water
with us, a portion of which it was necessary to give to the dogs; who
apparently suffered from the heat in an equal degree with ourselves.
These distressing symptoms I can only ascribe to the extreme heat of the
sun reflected from the sandstone rocks, and our previous long confinement
on board.
LOSS OF OUR THREE DOGS.
Our small supply of water, although but sparingly used, was soon
exhausted; and the symptoms of lassitude, before so excessive, now became
far worse. As usual, the endurance of the animals gave way before that of
the men. We had not completed more than a mile of our route (although it
was far more if the ascents and descents were taken into account) when
Ranger, a very fine young dog, dropped behind some rocks, and although we
turned back to look for him directly he was missed he could not be found.
The next to give way was Ringhalz, a fine Cape buck-hound; he fell
amongst the rocks, and died almost instantly. The only dog now left was a
greyhound, who manifested his extreme distress by constantly lying down.
For some time we dragged him along, but he was at last from necessity
abandoned. The cry of water was at length raised by one of the party, and
immediately afterwards we found ourselves on the edge of a deep ravine,
the precipitous sides of which were composed of nearly horizontal layers
of red sandstone. Down these some of us contrived to scramble, although
not without difficulty; but on reaching the bottom we had the
mortification to find the water salt; and as it would have been very
laborious to follow its course along the bottom of the ravine over the
mud, mangroves, and rocks which filled it, we had the pleasure of
scrambling up again as we best could.
For some short time we remained seated on the edge of the cliffs above
the ravine; but as there was no shelter here from the sun's rays, and the
pangs of thirst were pressing, I roused the men at last, and moved on
again, following the course of the ravine upwards. We had not walked more
than half a mile when the salt water inlet terminated and the bed of the
ravine became thickly wooded. At the moment we gained this point some
white cockatoos came soaring upwards from beneath our feet; and, as we
knew that this was an infallible sign of the presence of water, we
descended again to renew our search for it.
WATER DISCOVERED.
Our efforts this time were successful: in a few minutes we found a pool
of brackish water which appeared, under the present circumstances, to
afford the most delicious draughts, and, having drunk, we lay down by the
pool to rest ourselves. Being however doubtful as to which was the best
route to lead us out of the ravine we were now in, I walked up its
course, accompanied by Corporal Coles, leaving the others to rest
themselves, and soon reached its head; when we found ourselves in a small
but fertile valley, surrounded on all sides by rocky hills. Here were
many tracks of natives, and we came upon one of their regular haunts,
where they had arranged a circle of large flat stones round a fireplace
occupying the centre; on each of these stones was laid a smaller one,
evidently used for the purpose of breaking small shellfish, for the
remains of the shells were lying scattered about in all directions;*
kangaroo bones were also plentifully strewed about, and beside each pair
of stones was laid a large shell, probably used as a drinking cup.
(*Footnote. We found the marks of an encampment of a tribe of natives.
Eight or nine spots were cleared away amongst the grass, and in the
centre of each were the ashes of a small fire, close to which we noticed
some loose flattened stones with a smaller one lying upon them, which the
natives probably used for the purpose of bruising or grinding the seeds
of plants and breaking shellfish. King's Survey of Australia volume 1
page 302.)
TRACES OF NATIVES. THEIR HUTS.
Natives had been at this spot within the last day or two, and we followed
their traces, which were quite recent, across a dry watercourse till they
led to a hut built of a framework of logs of wood, and in shape like a
beehive, about four feet high and nine in diameter. This hut was of a
very superior description to those I found afterwards to be generally in
use in South-Western Australia, and differed from them altogether in that
its low and narrow entrance rendered access impossible without stooping;
and with the exception of this aperture the hut was entirely closed.
PROGRESS TOWARDS HANOVER BAY. ALARMING INCREASING DEBILITY OF THE MEN.
EFFORTS TO REACH THE VESSEL.
Considering that the best route out of these ravines would be by this
valley, I returned with Coles to the party, whom we found much refreshed
and, having consulted with Mr. Lushington as to the route we should
follow to the vessel after reaching the valley, we once more moved on;
but the same symptoms of lassitude and thirst began very soon again to
afflict us in an aggravated form; probably from the brackish water we had
all swallowed. In less than two hours more these symptoms became so
distressing that I could scarcely induce the men to move, and we
therefore halted under the shade of some high rocks.
It was now growing late, and the nature of the country was so rocky and
difficult that I thought it would be impossible for us to attempt to
march in the night-time; whilst on the other hand the men seemed so
completely worn out that I feared another day without fresh water would
be more than they could bear. I therefore became anxious to make the sea
coast before nightfall, considering that we could easily walk along the
shore after dark and fire a gun as a signal to the schooner to send a
boat for us. With this view therefore I moved on towards the sea,
requesting Mr. Lushington, when I fired, to follow my course with the
men.
As I walked ahead I found the country very rocky, with lofty bare
pinnacles standing up every here and there in the forest, one or two of
which I climbed, but could see nothing of the vessel. I now fired a
signal shot which, being answered by another from the party, I knew that
they were on my traces, and again moved on towards the sea. I presently
fired again, as I thought that they might augur favourably from the
report, and continued occasionally to do so until I had reached the
shore.
The cliffs were so steep that I found some difficulty in descending, but
directly I had gained the sea beach I pulled off my clothes and plunged
into the water: the quantity of moisture taken into the system by
absorption as I lay in the sea soon relieved my burning thirst, and by
the time that the first of the party (Corporal Coles) came up I was quite
recovered. He followed my example and soon began to revive also. The
remainder of the party now arrived with Mr. Lushington, who had found
much difficulty in getting them along. Of his exertions under these
trying circumstances I cannot speak too highly. But for his persuasion
and example I think two of the men were so exhausted that they would
before this have given up in despair.
Corporal Coles being now nearly recovered I left the rest of the party
under Mr. Lushington to follow the plan of refreshing themselves by
immersion in the sea and, as two men appeared to me to be very ill, I
arranged with him that he should keep the whole together and, as soon as
he considered them sufficiently recovered, they should follow myself and
Coles; whilst we preceded them along the beach for the purpose of sending
a boat back from the Lynher to pick them up.
FURTHER COURSE OBSTRUCTED.
I accordingly started with Coles and had not proceeded more than a mile
when we found two huts (one in ruins and the other complete) of exactly
the same size and form as that which we had seen in the morning: the
recent track of a native along the beach close to these was also visible.
In another half mile our progress was arrested by an arm of the sea,
about four or five hundred yards across, from which the tide was running
out with fearful rapidity; and on the opposite cliffs we observed a
native watching our movements.
As night was coming rapidly on it was necessary for me to decide at once
what I should do. Coles was unable to swim. If therefore I crossed the
stream it must be alone: to do so with natives on the opposite bank, of
whose intentions towards us we were entirely ignorant, was not without
considerable danger; yet I was very unwilling to leave the men in such a
state of suffering from thirst when I was so near the schooner, from
whence their wants could be supplied. Whilst I was debating what to do
Coles kept firing his gun in hopes that they might hear the report on
board and send a boat to our relief; in vain however we strained our
ears, the report of Coles's gun was reverberated from cliff to cliff and
from hill to hill, but no answering sound came back across the tranquil
water.
In the meantime I felt more and more anxious about the portion of the
party who were with Mr. Lushington, having left with them certain orders
and promised to send a boat up to them; on which promise all their
further movements would be regulated. The beach near us afforded no wood
wherewith to make a fire as a signal to the schooner; the cliffs
hereabouts were too precipitous to climb; and it was evident that but
very few of the party could swim so broad a space of water; granting that
they ever reached so far as the point where Coles and myself now were.
SWIM AN INLET OF THE SEA. DANGER IN THE PASSAGE ACROSS AND AFTER LANDING.
I therefore determined to run all risks, and swim the arm of the sea
which stopped our way.
I directed Coles to wait until the others came up and then to remain with
them until I returned in a boat. From the rugged nature of the shore I
could not have walked a yard without shoes, so I kept them on, as well as
my shirt and military cap, and I took a pistol in one hand as a means of
defence against the natives, or else to fire it when I reached a spot
where it could be seen or heard from the vessel.
I plunged in and very soon found myself caught in a tideway so violent
that resistance to its force, so as either to get on or return, appeared
at the moment hopeless.* My left hand, in which I held the pistol, was
called into requisition to save my life; for the stream washed the cap
from my head and, the cap then filling with water, and being carried down
by the strong current, the chin-strap caught round my neck and nearly
throttled me as I dragged it after me through the water; whilst the loose
folds of my shirt, being washed out to seawards by the tide, kept getting
entangled with my arm. I grew weak and faint but still swam my best, and
at last I providentially reached a reef of rocks which projected from the
opposite shore, and to which I clung until I had somewhat regained my
strength.
(*Footnote. I should state that the rise and fall of tide here is
thirty-eight feet.)
DANGER FROM NATIVES.