Journey Across Country. -- Capital of Sweden. -- Old and New. --
Swedish History. -- Local Attractions. -- King Oscar II. -- The
Royal Palace. -- The Westminster Abbey of Stockholm. -- A
Splendid Deer Park. -- Public Amusements. -- The Sabbath. -- An
Official Dude. -- An Awkward Statue. -- Swedish Nightingales. --
Linnaeus and Swedenborg. -- Dalecarlia Girls. -- A Remarkable
Group in Bronze. -- Rosedale Royal Cottage. -- Ancient Oaks. --
Upsala and its Surroundings. -- Ancient Mounds at Old Upsala. --
Swedenborg's Study.
The reader will remember that we spoke in our early pages of the
inland trip across Norway and Sweden,--that is, from Gottenburg to
Stockholm. After visiting the North Cape, one returns by nearly the
same route along the coast to Trondhjem, thence to Christiania. Our
next objective point being the capital of Sweden, we took passage by
rail, crossing the country by way of Charlottenborg, which is the
frontier town of Sweden. Here there is a custom-house examination of
baggage; for although Norway and Sweden are under one crown, yet they
have a separate tariff, so that custom-house rules are regularly
enforced between them. As regards others than commercial travellers
however this is a mere form, and is not made a source of needless
annoyance, as is too often the case in other countries. In crossing
the peninsula by rail one does not enjoy the picturesque scenery
which characterizes the Gotha Canal route. The railroad journey takes
one through a region of lake and forest by no means devoid of
interest, and which is rich in mines of iron and other ores. Some
important viaducts, iron bridges, and tunnels are passed, and as we
approach Lake Maelaren on the east coast a more highly cultivated
country is traversed, some of the oldest towns in Sweden being also
passed, each of which is strongly individualized. There is a
considerable difference observable between the architecture of the
Norwegians and that of the Swedes, the former affecting the style of
the Swiss chalet, while the latter build much more substantially.
Their dwellings as a rule are better finished, and always neatly
painted, in town or country.
Stockholm is a noble capital, in many respects exceptionally so. It
is situated on the Baltic at the outlet of Lake Maelaren, and is
built on several islands, all of which are connected by substantial
bridges,--the finest of which is the Norrbro, which has several grand
arches of stone, the whole measuring four hundred feet in length by
at least sixty in width, though we have no statistics at hand by
which to verify these figures. The city has a population of over a
hundred and eighty thousand, covering an area of five square miles,
and taken as a whole it certainly forms one of the most cleanly and
interesting capitals in Europe. It is a city of canals, public
gardens, broad squares, and gay cafes. It has two excellent harbors,
one on the Baltic and one on Lake Maelaren. Wars, conflagrations,
and the steady progress of civilization have entirely changed the
city from what it was in the days of Gustavus Vasa,--that is, about
the year 1496. It was he who founded the dynasty which has survived
for three hundred years. The streets in the older sections of the
town are often crooked and narrow, like those of Marseilles, or of
Toledo in Spain, where in looking heavenward one does not behold
enough of the blue sky between the roofs for the measure of a
waistcoat pattern, but in the more modern-built parts there are fine
straight avenues and spacious squares, with large and imposing public
and private edifices. Here as in most of the other Scandinavian
cities, in consequence of various sweeping fires, the old
timber-built houses have gradually disappeared, being replaced by
those of brick or stone, and there is now enforced a municipal law
which prohibits the erection of wooden structures within the
precincts of the city proper.
Stockholm is the centre of the social and literary activity of
Scandinavia, hardly second in these respects to Copenhagen. It has
its full share of scientific, artistic, and benevolent institutions,
such as befit a great European capital. The stranger should as soon
as convenient after arriving ascend an elevation of the town called
the Mosebacke, whereon has been erected a lofty iron framework and
look-out, which is surmounted by means of a steam elevator. From this
structure an admirable view of the city is obtained and its
topography fixed clearly upon the mind. At a single glance as it
were, one overlooks the charming marine view of the Baltic with its
busy traffic, while in the opposite direction the hundreds of islands
that dot Lake Maelaren form a wide-spread picture of varied beauty.
The bird's-eye view obtained of the environs of the capital is
unique, since in the immediate vicinity of the city lies the primeval
forest, undisturbed and unimproved. This seems the more singular when
we realize how ancient a place Stockholm is, having been fortified
and made his capital by Birger Jarl, between seven and eight hundred
years ago. Though Sweden unlike Norway has no heroic age, so to
speak, connecting her earliest exploits with the fate of other
countries, still no secondary European power has enacted so brilliant
a part in modern history as have those famous Swedish monarchs
Gustavus Vasa, Gustavus Adolphus, and Charles XII. The latter fought
all Europe,--Danes, Russians, Poles, Germans,--and gave away a
kingdom before he was twenty years of age. It was he who at his
coronation snatched the crown from the hand of the archbishop and set
it proudly on his head with his own hands.
Some of the local attractions of the city are the National Museum,
built of granite and marble in the Venetian Renaissance style, the
Academy of Sciences, the Art Museum, the Town Hall, and the Royal
Palace; but we will not weary the reader with detailed accounts of
them. The Royal Palace, like that at Christiania, is an exceedingly
plain building, with a granite basement and stuccoed bricks above,
forming an immense quadrangular edifice. Though it is very simple
externally, it is yet finely proportioned, and stands upon the
highest point of the central island. Its present master, King Oscar
II., is an accomplished artist, poet, musician, and an admirable
linguist, nobly fulfilling the requirements of his responsible
position. He has been justly called the ideal sovereign of the age,
and the more the world knows of him the more fully this estimate will
be confirmed. His court, while it is one of the most unpretentious,
is yet one of the most refined in Europe. It is not surprising
therefore that the King enjoys a popularity among his subjects
characterized by universal confidence, respect, and love. The State
departments of the palace are very elegant, and are freely shown to
strangers at all suitable times. In the grand State Hall is the
throne of silver originally occupied by Queen Christina, while the
Hall of Mirrors appears as though it might have come out of Aladdin's
Palace. Amid all the varied attractions of art and historic
associations, the splendid Banqueting Hall, the galleries of painting
and statuary, the Concert Room, audience chambers, saloons hung with
Gobelin tapestry, and gilded boudoirs, one simple chamber impressed
us most. It was the bed-room of Charles XIV. (Marshal Bernadotte),
which has remained unchanged and unused since the time of his death,
his old campaign cloak of Swedish blue still lying upon the bed. The
clock upon the mantle-piece significantly points to the hour and the
minute of the monarch's death. The life and remarkable career of the
dead King flashed across the memory as we stood for a moment beside
these suggestive souvenirs. It was recalled how he began life as a
common soldier in the French army, rising with rapidity by reason of
his military genius to be a Marshal of France, and finally to sit
upon the Swedish throne. Bernadotte, Prince of Ponte Corvo, is the
only one of Napoleon's generals whose descendants still occupy a
throne.
The Royal Library is said to be a very choice collection of books in
all modern languages, occupying a hall which extends over nearly the
entire length of one wing of the palace, and contains a hundred
thousand bound volumes. One of the most conspicuous objects seen from
its windows is the Riddarsholm Church, a lofty, Gothic structure of
red brick, and the Westminster Abbey of the metropolis. Its tall
openwork spire of iron tracery reaches towards the sky as though it
would pierce the blue vault, forming a conspicuous object for the eye
of the traveller who approaches the city by water. This old church,
with its banner-hung arches, possesses considerable historic
interest. There is significance in the fact that its chime of bells
is only heard on the occasion of royal funerals. The broad aisle is
filled with grand colossal statuary by Sergei, Bystrom, and other
native sculptors. In one of the chapels is the tomb of Gustavus
Adolphus, and in another repose the ashes of the youthful hero
Charles XII. A long line of Swedish monarchs also rest beneath the
Riddarsholm Church. The central floor is covered with gravestones
bearing the titles of historic characters and of heroic names, in the
study of which and recalling of their mingled histories hours glide
swiftly away. There is a chapel of relics attached to the church
which contains many valuable historic souvenirs. In the large square
bearing the name of Birger Jarl's Torg, near by the church just
described, stands a bronze statue of this former ruler and founder of
the city, who was a great reformer in his day, living until 1266. It
was modelled by Fogelberg, and represents the famous original in the
armor which was common in the twelfth century, the general effect
being artistic and impressive; but it is by no means faultless. The
pedestal is formed by a heavy dwarfed pillar, which places the statue
too far above the line of sight for good effect. The church of
Adolphus Frederick is built in the form of a cross, and is rendered
quite conspicuous by its large tower, which is crowned by a copper
dome. This church is just a century old. A monument was observed
within its walls erected to the memory of Descartes, the famous
French philosopher, who died at Stockholm in 1650, but whose remains
were finally removed to Paris. The most conspicuous dome and tower in
the city is that of the Ladugardslands Church, surmounting an octagon
structure two centuries old. St. Catherine's Church is the highest in
the metropolis, and is built in the Grecian cross shape, with a lofty
dome and five spires. Its erection dates back two hundred years.
The population of Stockholm seems to consist of a cheerful,
prosperous, and contented people, though few remarkable signs of
luxury or opulence meet the eye of a stranger. The shops on the
principal streets are elegantly arrayed, and in the spacious windows
choice merchandise, books, pictures, and jewelry are tastefully
displayed. There are not better supplied or more attractive shops on
the Rue de la Paix or the Italian Boulevard of Paris. A ceaseless
activity reigns along the thoroughfares, among the little steam
gondolas upon the many water-ways, and the myriad of passenger
steamers which ply upon the lake. Many pleasure seekers throng the
small parks in the city, while others seek the more extensive and
distant Djurgard, or "Deer Park," in the environs. These are the
finest grounds of the sort and by far the most extensive devoted to
such a purpose which the author has chanced to see. This remarkable
pleasure resort, originally laid out as a deer park by Gustavus III.,
occupies an entire island by itself, and is some miles in
circumference, beautified with inviting drives, grassy glades, rocky
knolls, Swiss cottages, Italian verandas, and containing innumerable
thrifty trees, among which are some of the noblest oaks to be found
outside of England. Refreshment booths, cafes, music halls,
marionette theatres, gymnastic apparatus, and various other means of
public amusement are liberally distributed over the wide-spread area.
It is the great summer resort of the populace for picnicing, pleasure
outings, and Sunday holidays. The environs far and near, including
the Deer Park, are easily and cheaply reached by small steam
launches, or by tramway, at any hour of the day or evening.
No population known to the author is so thoroughly devoted to public
amusement as are the citizens of the Swedish capital during the warm
season; the brief summer is indeed made the most of by all classes in
the enjoyment of out-door life. Beginning at an early hour of the day
and continuing until past midnight, gayety reigns supreme from the
middle of June until the end of August. To a stranger it seems to be
one ceaseless holiday, leading one to ask what period the people
devote to their business occupations. It is surprising to observe how
many theatres, circuses, concerts, fairs, casinos, field sports and
garden entertainments are liberally supported by a population of less
than two hundred thousand. At night the tide of life flows fast and
furious until the small hours, the town and its environs being ablaze
with gas and electric lights. The little omnibus steamers which flit
about like fire-flies are, like the tramways, taxed to their utmost
capacity, while the air is full of music from military bands. It is
the summer gayety of the Champs Elysees thrice multiplied by a
community which does not number one tenth of the aggregated
population of the great French capital. Not one but every day in the
week forms a link in the continuous chain of revelling hours, until
on the Sabbath the gayety culminates in a grand fete day of
pleasure-outings for men, women, and children. Scores of steamers
gayly dressed in flags and crowded with passengers start in the early
morning of this day for excursions on Lake Maelaren, or to visit some
pleasure resort on the Baltic, while the Deer Park and public gardens
of the city resound all day and night with mirth and music.
The Royal Opera House is a plain substantial structure on the
Gustaf-Adolf-Torg, built by Gustavus III. in 1775, and will seat
fifteen hundred persons. A music-loving Swede told us of the debut of
Jenny Lind years ago in this dramatic temple, and also described that
of Christine Nilsson, which occurred more recently. The excellent
acoustic properties of the Stockholm Opera House are admitted by
famous vocalists to be nearly unequalled. It was here, at a gay
masquerade ball on the morning of March 15, 1792, that Gustavus III.
was fatally wounded by a shot from an assassin, one of the
conspirators among the nobility. Our place of sojourn while in
Stockholm was at the Hotel Rydberg, which overlooks the
Gustaf-Adolf-Torg. Directly opposite our windows, across the bridge
where the waters of the Baltic and Lake Maelaren join, was the Royal
Palace, situated upon a commanding site. On the right of the square
and forming one whole side of it was the Crown Prince's palace; on
the left was the Opera House, with an equal frontage; while in the
centre stood the equestrian bronze statue of Gustavus Adolphus. On
the low ground beside the bridge leading to the royal palace close to
the water was one of those picturesque pleasure-gardens for which
the town is famous, where under the trees hung with fancy lamps an
animated crowd assembled nightly to enjoy the music of the military
band and to partake of all sorts of refreshments, but mainly
consisting of Swedish punch, Scandinavian beer, or coffee. The
distance of this pleasure-garden from the hotel was just sufficient
to harmonize the music with one's mood, and to lull the drowsy senses
to sleep when the hour for retiring arrived.
Following the motley crowd one evening, indifferent as to where it
might lead, the author found himself on board one of the little
omnibus steamers, which in about fifteen minutes landed its
passengers at the Deer Park, near the entrance to which a permanent
circus establishment seemed to be the attraction; so purchasing a
ticket in our turn, we entered with a crowd which soon filled the
auditorium. Over two thousand spectators found accommodation within
the walls. The performance was excellent and of the usual variety,
including a ballet. Occupying a seat by our side was a man of about
seventy years of age, whose white hair, mutton-chop whiskers, and
snowy moustache were cut and dressed after the daintiest fashion. He
was a little below the average size, and was in excellent
preservation for one of his years. It was observed that his hands and
feet were as small as those of a young school-girl. He was in full
evening dress, with a button-hole bouquet in his coat lapel, held in
place by a diamond clasp. On three of the fingers of each hand were
diamond rings reaching to the middle joints. Diamonds mingled with
rubies and pearls glistened upon his wrists, upon which he wore
ladies' bracelets. His tawdry watch-chain was heavy with brilliants.
In his necktie was a large diamond, and a star-shaped clustre of
small ones furnished him with a breastpin. In short, this antique
dude sparkled all over like a jeweller's shop-window. Each of the
ballet-girls had a sign of recognition for the gay Lothario, who
exchanged signals with several of the women performers. We felt sure
that he must be some well-known character about town, and upon
returning to the hotel described him and asked who he was. "Oh!" said
the proprietor, "that was the Portuguese Minister!"
Some of the public streets of the city are quite steep, so as to be
impassable for vehicles,--like those of Valetta in the island of
Malta, and those in the English part of Hong Kong. The northern
suburb is the most fashionable part of Stockholm, containing the
newest streets and the finest private residences. Among the statues
which ornament the public squares and gardens, that of Charles XII.
in King's Park is perhaps the most remarkable,--he whom Motley called
"the crowned gladiator." It stands upon a pedestal of Swedish
granite, surrounded by four heavy mortars placed at the
corners,--spoils which were taken by the youthful hero in battle.
Touching the individual figure, which is of bronze and colossal, it
struck us as full of incongruities, and not at all creditable to the
well-known designer Molin.
The Swedish and Norwegian languages are very similar, and, as we were
assured by persons of both nationalities, they are becoming gradually
amalgamated. The former is perhaps the softer tongue and its people
the more musical, as those two delightful vocalists and envoys from
thence, Jenny Lind and Christine Nilsson, would lead us to infer.
Both countries are undoubtedly poor in worldly riches, but yet they
expend larger sums of money for educational purposes in proportion to
the number of their population than any other country except America.
The result here is manifest in a marked degree of general
intelligence diffused among all classes. One is naturally reminded in
this Swedish capital of Linnaeus and Swedenborg, both of whom were
born here. The latter graduated at the famous University of Upsala,
the former in the greater school of out-door Nature. Swedenborg was
as eminent a scientist as religionist, and to him was first intrusted
the engineering of the Gotha Canal; but his visionary peculiarities
growing upon him it was found necessary to substitute a more
practical individual, so that the great work was eventually completed
by Sweden's most famous engineer and mechanician, Kristofer Polhem.
The stranger often meets in the streets of Stockholm a conspicuous
class of peasant women dressed very neatly but somewhat gaudily in
stripes and high colors, wearing a peculiar head-gear. They are from
Dalecarlia, with sun-burned cheeks, splendid teeth, bright serious
eyes, soft light hair worn in braids hanging down their backs, and
universally possessing sturdy, well-shaped forms. These women are
from a favored province of Sweden, and for a long time enjoyed a
monopoly of the many ferry-boats of the city, it having been accorded
to them by royal consent in consideration of the patriotism exhibited
by them, and of aid which the women of that ancient province gave to
the cause of the throne at a critical moment in Swedish history.
Dalecarlian girls on arriving at a suitable age have for many
generations been in the habit of coming to the capital and remaining
long enough to earn by their industry sufficient means to return
home, become married, and set up their households for life. The small
omnibus-steamers have superseded the row-boat ferries, but still the
women of this province come to the city all the same, pursuing
various occupations of a laborious character, but always retaining
their native costumes. Swedish provinces have each to a certain
extent a special style of dress to which they tenaciously adhere, as
the several Highland clans of Scotland do to their plaids and colors.
These girls are often engaged by wealthy families as nurses for their
children; some few are to be seen at service in the cafes and public
gardens, others are engaged as porters, who transport light packages
while pushing before them a small two-wheeled handcart. They
certainly form a very picturesque feature with their peculiar costume
of striped aprons, party-colored waists, and tall caps, recalling the
Italian models one sees on the Spanish Stairs of the Piazza di
Spagna in Rome. As a rule, in point of morals they are represented to
be beyond reproach; but some of them inevitably drift into
temptation, and become lost to their country and home ties. But even
under these sad circumstances, the Dalecarlian girls adhere
tenaciously to their peasant costume to the last. The pride which
prevents them from returning to their village homes after the
blandishments have faded which led them astray, often prompts them to
seek a watery grave in the Lake Maelaren.
The National Museum is a fine modern structure three stories in
height, the facade ornamented with appropriate statues and
medallions, among which was one of Linnaeus. On entering the edifice
three colossal marble figures attract the eye, representing the chief
deities of Scandinavian mythology, Odin, Thor, and Freyr; but as
regards the curiosities collected here, they are in no way
remarkable, being much like those of other collections. One exception
should be made, however, in favor of the cabinet of ancient coins,
which is very complete and attractive; it is claimed for it that
there is no other in Europe of equal interest or importance. The
collection of ancient Arabian coins is unique, and would delight the
heart of the simplest numismatist. There is a large gallery of
paintings in the upper story of the Museum, with a few examples of
the old masters and many of the modern schools. In the open square
before the National Museum is to be seen the original of the bronze
group described in our chapter upon Gottenburg. This remarkable
production, called the "Girdle-Duellists," is the masterpiece of the
Swedish artist Molin, and is undoubtedly the finest piece of
sculpture to be seen in the country. The pedestal is ornamented with
four reliefs representing the origin and issue of the combat, with
Runic inscriptions signifying "Jealousy," "Drinking," "Beginning of
the Combat," and the "Widow's Lament." It seemed surprising to us
that an artist capable of such admirable work as this justly famous
group represents, could also have been the author of that hideous
conception, the bronze statue of Charles XII., so conspicuously
placed in the King's Park of Stockholm.
One of the most popular of the many cafes and pleasure-gardens either
in the city proper or its environs, is that known as Hasselbacken,
which is situated quite near to the Deer Park. This garden is crowded
day and evening during the warm season with hundreds of visitors
intent upon enjoying the various entertainments characterizing this
resort, among which excellent instrumental and vocal music forms a
specialty, while refreshments of every sort are served by an army of
white-aproned and active waiters. A broad Turkish pavilion forms the
principal concert-room at Hasselbacken, picturesquely fitted up for
the purpose. In these grounds, under an ancient oak which reared its
tall head proudly above all its neighbors, there was observed a fine
statue of Bellman the composer, who, as we learned, was accustomed a
century ago to sit in this spot and sing his compositions to his
assembled friends, accompanying himself on his favorite instrument
the cithern. The sculptor Nystroem has reproduced the poet in bronze;
and the composition is both beautiful as an ideal-historical monument
and excellent in an artistic point of view. Fountains and flower-beds
abound on all sides in these inviting grounds, the sylvan aspect
being carefully and ingeniously preserved.
While driving in the Deer Park we accidentally came upon the royal
cottage of Rosedale, which was built by Charles XIV. about sixty
years ago, and was the favorite summer residence of the Queen-dowager
Josephine. It is a most delightful rural retreat, surrounded by
hothouses, graperies, flower-plats, broad gravelled walks, and trees
in great variety. Some of the ancient oaks about Rosedale are of
special beauty and of noble development, challenging the admiration
of every stranger. In the rear of the royal cottage is a remarkable
porphyry urn in three parts, foot, stem, and crown,--being nearly
forty feet in circumference, and weighing, we were told, over fifty
thousand pounds. Charles XIV. took great pride in perfecting the Deer
Park as a place of public resort and pleasure, for which object he
expended large sums from his private purse. From Rosedale one can
return to the city by boat or by a drive over the pleasant,
well-macadamized roads which intersect the country lying between the
Baltic and Lake Maelaren.
Upsala is the oldest town in the country as well as the historical
and educational centre of the kingdom, situated just fifty miles
from Stockholm, and may be reached either by boat or by rail. Going
in one way and returning by the other adds a pleasing variety to the
trip, which by starting early in the morning can be satisfactorily
consummated in a single day. This is the Cambridge of Sweden,--the
name Upsala signifying the "Lofty Halls." It was the royal capital of
the country for more than a thousand years, and was the locality of
the great temple of Thor, now replaced by a Christian cathedral which
was over two centuries in building. "The religion of one age is the
literary entertainment of the next," says Emerson. The more modern
structure is in the Gothic style, built of brick, and the site being
on elevated ground renders it very effective. Originally it had three
spires four hundred feet high; but these were destroyed by lightning
in 1702, and were afterwards replaced by the present two incongruous
towers of circumscribed elevation, and which do not at all accord
with the original architectural design of the structure. This spot in
the Pagan ages was a famous resort for sacrifices. History, or at
least legend tells us that in those days the original temple was
surrounded by a sacred grove wherein the sacrifices were made to
propitiate the deities worshipped there,--human blood being
considered the most acceptable. So powerful was the heathenish
infatuation, that parents even immolated their children. An account
is still extant of seventy-two bodies of human beings being seen here
at one time, suspended and dead upon the trees. Odin was once a
sacred deity here; now the name represents among the peasantry that
of the Devil. The present temple in its architectural aspect is
nearly a duplicate of Notre Dame in Paris, and is the largest
cathedral in the north of Europe. The same architect, Etienne de
Bonnevil, designed them both, and came to Upsala, accompanied by a
small army of mechanics from France, to begin the work which was
destined, from various causes, to linger along through two centuries.
The interior is impressive from its severe simplicity. The flying
buttresses inside the structure give a peculiarly striking effect.
Between each of them is a small chapel. The vaulting is supported by
twenty-four soaring pillars. The dead, cold walls are finished in
glaring whitewash without any relief. Under the altar is an elaborate
and much-venerated shrine of silver containing the ashes of Saint
Eric, the patron saint of Sweden.
Upsala has often been the scene of fierce and bloody conflicts. Saint
Eric was slain here in 1161. It has its university and its historical
associations; but it has neither trade nor commerce of any sort
beyond that of a small inland town,--its streets never being
disturbed by business activity or the "fever of living," though there
is a population here of at least fifteen or sixteen thousand persons.
The University, founded in 1477 and richly endowed by Gustavus
Adolphus, is the just pride of the country,--having to-day some
fifteen hundred students and forty-eight competent professors. No one
can enter the profession of law, medicine, or divinity in Sweden who
has not graduated either at this University or at that of Lund. Its
library contains nearly or quite two hundred thousand bound volumes
and over seven thousand important manuscripts. Among the latter is a
copy of the four Gospels, with movable silver letters placed on
parchment at the chapter heads, the whole being in the old Gothic
language. This book, named "Codex Argenteus," contains nearly two
hundred folios, and was made by Bishop Ulphilas one thousand years
before Gutenberg was born. It was in this University that Linnaeus,
the great naturalist, was professor of botany and zoology for nearly
forty years. His statue still very properly ornaments the
lecture-room, and his journal is shown to visitors in the large hall
of the library.
The former dwelling house of Linnaeus may be seen by tourists at
Upsala, where he lived among his well-beloved flora, planted and
tended by his own hands. His remains lie interred within the
cathedral under a mural tablet of red porphyry, bearing upon the
surface a portrait of the grand old naturalist by Sergel, in
bas-relief. Many of the tombs and tablets in the aisles bore dates of
more than five hundred years ago, but none interested us so much as
that of Linnaeus the great disciple of Nature. This humble shoemaker
by force of his genius alone rose to be a prince in the kingdom of
Science. Botany and Zoology have never known a more eminent exponent
than the lowly-born Karl von Linne, whom the Swedes very
appropriately denominate the King of Flowers. A certain knowledge of
plants and of natural history forms a part of the primary education
of every Swede. At Upsala one has abundant evidence to show how
liberally the Government of the country fosters education among all
classes, and also that special attention is given to the education of
women.
About three or four miles from the University is the village of Old
Upsala, where there are three huge tumuli said to contain the remains
of Pagan deities. One is here forcibly reminded of the North American
mound-builders. In Illinois the author has seen examples double the
size of these at Upsala, while in the State of Ohio there are
thousands of these tumuli to be seen. Adjoining the three mounds at
Upsala is a quaint little church, more than two thousand years old,
built of rough field-stones. It contains a monument to Anders Celsius
the Swedish astronomer and some ancient ecclesiastical vessels, also
some old pictures upon canvas nearly consumed by mould. The huge key
with which the door was opened to admit the author bore a date of six
centuries ago. We noticed some Pagan idols in wood preserved in an
oaken chest inside the old church, which dated about the eleventh
century. What a venerable, crude, and miraculously-preserved old pile
it is! Who can say that inanimate objects are not susceptible to
minute impressions which they retain? Has not the phonograph proven
that it receives mechanically, through the waves of sound, spoken
words, which it records and repeats? What then may possibly be
retained in the memory of this old, old church, which has kept watch
and ward on the footsteps of time, these two thousand years! Few
temples are now in existence which are known to antedate the
Christian era, but undoubtedly these gray old walls form one of them.
The three mounds referred to--the tombs of heroes in their lifetime,
gods in their death--are said to be those of Thor, Odin, and Freyr.
They were found easy of ascent, and were covered with a soft, fresh
verdure, from whence we gathered a bouquet of native thyme and
various colored wild-flowers which were brought back with us to
Stockholm. Near these mounds is also a hill of forty or fifty feet in
height called Tingshog, from which all the kings down to Gustavus
Vasa used to address their subjects. In this same neighborhood also
are the famous Mora Stones, where in the Middle Ages the election
ceremony and the crowning of the Swedish kings took place with great
solemnity. Tangible evidence as well as the pages of history show
Upsala to have been the great stronghold of Paganism, and here the
apostles of Christianity encountered the most determined opposition.
There are many other mounds in the vicinity of the three specified,
all undoubted burial-places erected ages ago. The highest one,
measuring sixty-four perpendicular feet, was cut through in 1874 to
enable the Ethnological Congress then assembled here to examine the
inside. There were found within it a skeleton and some fragments of
arms and jewelry, which are now preserved in the Museum at
Stockholm. We were told that another of these mounds was opened in a
similar manner nearly fifty years ago, with a like result as to its
contents.
Before leaving the Swedish capital a spot of more than passing
interest was visited; namely, the garden and summer-house in which
Emanuel Swedenborg, philosopher and theosophist, wrote his remarkable
works. It seems strange that here in his native city this man as a
religionist had no followers. It is believed to-day by many in
Stockholm that he wrote under a condition of partial derangement of
mind. The house which he owned and in which he lived has crumbled
away and disappeared, but his summer-house study--a small close
building fifteen feet in height and about eighteen feet square--is
still extant. In most countries such a relic would be carefully
preserved, and made to answer the purpose of an exhibition to the
visiting strangers; but here no special note is taken of it, and not
without some difficulty could it be found. One intelligent resident
even denied the existence of this object of inquiry, but a little
persistent effort at last discovered the interesting old study at No.
43 Hornsgatan, a few streets in the rear of the Royal Palace, from
which it is about one half of a mile distant.
Every one is amenable to the influence of the weather. Had the same
dull dripping atmosphere greeted us at Stockholm which was
encountered at Bergen, perhaps the impression left upon the memory
would have been less propitious, but the exact contrary was the
case. The days passed here were warm, bright, and sunny; everything
wore a holiday aspect; life was at its gayest among the citizens as
seen in the public gardens, streets, and squares, even the big white
sea-gulls that swooped gracefully over the many water-ways, though
rather queer habitues of a populous city, seemed to be uttering cries
of bird merriment. In short our entire experience of the Swedish
capital is tinctured with pleasurable memories.