The Blerioplane Flyer. (Plate II.)
The Blerioplane Flyer is of the simple monoplane type and is very easily
constructed. It is a remarkable flyer when properly adjusted and will
fly over one hundred and fifty feet.
The motor base is a piece of 3/16 dowel, 12 inches long. The edges of
the planes are made of fine steel piano wire bent to the shape shown in
Plate I. The planes are covered with silk which is carefully turned over
at the edges, around the wires and fastened either by sewing or with
bamboo varnish. The dimensions of the planes are clearly shown in the
illustration.
[Illustration: Plate IV.]
The propeller is placed at the rear of the machine, the smaller plane
being considered the elevator. The bearing is shown in detail in the
accompanying illustration. It is made by folding and bending a piece of
sheet brass into the shape shown. A piece of steel piano wire is passed
through the forward end of the motor base to act as an anchor hook for
the rubber band.
The propeller is easily wound up by hand.
One side of the main plane will have to be made slightly larger than the
other in some cases in order to counteract the twisting action of the
propeller by one side of the machine more of a lift than the other.
The planes are adjusted by bending the wire edge. They should form a
slight dihedral angle. The rubber strands lie along the top of the motor
base so as to bring the centre of the propeller thrust coincident with
the centre of pressure on the planes. Bending the front edge of the
planes down will cause the machine to take a downward path while bending
them up will cause the aeroplane to fly higher. A little experimental
work will determine the proper position.
The Monoplane Flyer. (Plate III.)
The fusellage or "backbone" of the machine is formed out of a piece of
thin walled aluminum tubing having an outside diameter of one-quarter of
an inch and measuring twenty-four inches long.
The framework of the planes is formed out of rattan reed, one-eighth of
an inch in diameter. The main plane is 19 inches across from tip to tip.
It is 4 inches deep at the centre and 5 1/2 inches at the widest point
near the tips. The framework is spread near the centre of each wing by a
piece of rattan reed 5 1/4 inches long. The ends of the reed are joined
by rolling a small piece of copper sheet into a tube and closing it
around the reed tightly with a pair of pliers.
The reed forming the frame of the plane passes through a hole in the
aluminum tube.
[Illustration: Plate V.]
The plane forming the tail is almost the same in all respects save that
of size as the forward main plane.
A small vertical fin 3 inches wide and 3 1/2 inches deep is placed below
the tail plane, in line with the "backbone" to act as a keel or rudder
and hold the machine to a straight course.
The covering of the planes is China silk or bamboo paper coated with
bamboo varnish.
The bearing is made out of sheet brass bent into the shape shown and
fastened to the tube by lashing with a wire.
The propeller should be 6 inches in diameter. One or two glass beads
placed between the bearing and the propeller will reduce the friction.
The motive power consists of 8 strands of 3/32 x 3/32 inch rubber
connected at one end to the propeller and at the other to a hook at the
rear end of the aluminum tube.
The machine is provided with two piano wire skids to protect the
propeller in landing.
If the aeroplane tends to rise too abruptly when in flight, bend the
rear edge of the main planes up. If on the contrary, it dips or dives,
bend the rear edge down.
The Baby Racer. (Plate IV.)
This is one of the smallest and simplest machines of the twin propelled
racing models. The two main members of the motor base or fusellage are
1/8" x 1/8" in section and 5 1/2 inches long. One end of each is tapered
and then glued and bound with strong thread. The opposite ends are held
apart by a brace made from flat steel wire. The wire is hammered out
flat at the ends and drilled with a small hole to form a propeller
bearing. The details of the brace are given in the upper right-hand
corner of the plate. The brace is fastened to the sticks by lashing with
thread.
It is well to place a small wooden brace across the frame about midway
of its length. This will serve to considerably stiffen the frame and
prevent it from sagging under the tension of the rubber bands.
[Illustration: Plate VI.]
The planes are cut from stiff paper. The main plane is 7 1/4 inches
across and the elevation plane 2 3/4 inches. Each plane is cut to the
shape shown in the drawings and stiffened by gluing a thin wooden strip
across the front edges of the planes.
A small piece of steel wire is passed around the front end of the frame
and bent to form two anchor hooks for the rubber bands. It is then
lashed firmly into position and the thread covered with glue so that it
will not untwist if broken.
The propellers are made from thin whitewood or veneer. They are four
inches in diameter and formed by steaming and bending. The shaft is
formed out of brass wire by bending it around the centre of the
propeller. Two small beads are slipped over the shaft to eliminate
friction between the propeller and the bearing.
The planes are held in position by small rubber bands. The sketches in
Fig. 53 explain exactly how this is accomplished.
[Illustration: FIG. 53. Method of holding plane to frame with rubber
bands.]
The sticks glued along the front edges of the planes are sufficient to
give them a slight angle. The machine is controlled by moving the planes
back and forth so as to shift their lifting effort to the proper
position.
[Illustration: Plate VII.]
The motor consists of two strands of 3/32 x 3/32 rubber attached to each
propeller.
The Peerless Racer. (Plate V.)
This excellent flyer is very simple to put together and by carefully
following the directions anyone can construct the machine and obtain
splendid flights.
The two long members of the frame or fusellage, marked "A" and "B" in
the drawing are 36 inches in length. They measure 1/4 x 3/16 in cross
section.
Bevel one 1/4 inch side of one end of each of the two long sticks so
that they can be joined to form an angle as shown in the upper right
hand corner of the accompanying plate. The tip should not be greater
than one quarter inch in width after joining. Glue the ends together
using plenty of glue and before it has set, bind with strong linen
thread, starting at the tip and winding back for about one inch. The
surplus glue will squeeze out between the threads and when hard prevent
them from unwinding if broken.
An aluminum brace must be made by flattening the ends of a piece of 1/8
inch aluminum rod. The rod should be about 5 1/4 inches long so that
when the brace is placed 5/8 of an inch back from the ends of the
sticks, the distance between them will be about 4 3/4 inches.
Glue and bind a small wooden cross brace to the frame, 12 inches from
the rear end. The brace should be made 3/16 of an inch wide and 3/32 of
an inch thick.
The elevating blocks are 3/4 of an inch long, 3/16 of an inch thick, 3/8
of an inch high at the rear and 1/2 inch high at the front. They should
be fastened to the machine by gluing and binding six inches back from
the tip. The highest part of the blocks should be towards the front of
the machine as shown in the illustration. Be careful to see that the
frame is lined up perfectly true and then lay it aside until the glue
dries.
[Illustration: FIG. 54. The Peerless Racer.]
The propeller bearings are made from No. 18 hard sheet aluminum. It is
cut into a strip 1/4 of an inch wide and then drilled and bent as shown
in the accompanying illustrations. The bearings are screwed on the rear
ends of the sticks "A" and "B." It is also a good plan to bind some
linen thread around tightly.
Pass the propellers through the bearings and bend the end of the shaft
into the shape of a hook, being very careful not to twist the bearings
during the operation. A bead should be slipped over the propeller shaft
previous to passing it through the bearing so that it comes between the
bearing and the propeller and lessens the friction.
Bore a small hole through the frame of the machine 1/2 inch back from
the tip, making the hole pass from side to side. Pass a piece of stiff
wire through this hole and bend back each end snugly to the frame to
form the anchor hooks as illustrated. Bind some thread over the anchor
hooks to keep them from twisting.
Bend two small pieces of wire into "S" shaped hooks and slip one over
each of the anchor hooks.
[Illustration: Plate VIII.]
Pass the rubber skein through one of the "S" hooks and back to the hook
in the end of the propeller shaft, weaving it back and forth seven times
so that there are seven strands. Do the same with the other propeller.
The ends of the rubber must be tied to the hook with some strong cotton
cord. The cord should be soft and the rubber should be passed loosely
around the hook so that it will not easily become cut.
The planes are made of hard fibre 1/32 of an inch thick. The main plane
is 22 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide. The elevating plane is 8 inches
long and 3 1/2 inches wide. The ends are rounded as shown in the
illustration. Glue a strip of wood 1/16 x 3/16 inches to the front edge
of each plane. The strip for the large main plane should be 19 inches
long and that for the elevating plane 5 inches. The edges should be
smoothed with a piece of fine sandpaper and rubbed down until they are
dry.
The planes are attached to the frame by rubber bands in the usual
manner. The edges of the planes should be squeezed together slightly
until they are slightly concave on the under side. The position of the
main plane will have to be determined by trial. The front edge of the
elevating plane should rest on the elevating blocks.
The propeller should be given from 600-700 turns. The propellers should
be six inches in diameter and of medium pitch.
The Peerless Racer is a splendid flyer and will fly over 1,000 feet if
properly adjusted.
The Competition Flyer. (Plates VI and VII.)
The Competition Flyer does not differ materially from the Peerless Racer
just described except in some of the details of construction. The motor
base of the machine is composed of two long members 36 inches in length
tapered and lashed together at one end in the usual manner. The other
ends are held apart by a wooden brace (marked a) about 4 7/8 inches
long. Two other braces (marked b and c) are placed at equal distances
along the frame.
The bearings used on this machine are similar to those used on the
Peerless Racer and are fastened to the rear end of the frame by three
small screws.
[Illustration: Plate IX.]
The planes of this machine are "built up" planes, that is, they are
double surfaced. The main plane is 24 inches long and four inches broad.
The accompanying illustration shows the details of the planes. The long
members of the planes are made of whitewood or spruce and the edges and
ribs are split bamboo.
The elevating plane is 9 1/2 inches long and five inches wide.
The planes are covered with bamboo paper and then given a coat of bamboo
varnish. The front plane is tilted upwards by two small elevating blocks
similar to those used on the Peerless Racer.
The machine is fitted with skids made by bending 3/32 inch square split
bamboo into the shape shown and lashing them to the frame. The skids
protect the planes and the propeller of the machine from possible damage
in landing.
The propellers should be of the racing type, six inches in diameter and
carved out from a blank in the method described in the chapter on
propellers.
The planes are held to the frame of the machine by rubber bands in the
usual manner. Their exact position will have to be determined by
experiment.
The Long Distance Racer. (Plates VIII and IX.)
The Long Distance Racer is a model adapted from the Competition Flyer
and similar to it in many respects.
The drawings show the dimensions and arrangement of the various parts
sufficiently well so that little comment is necessary.
The planes are of the built-up type, being made entirely from split
bamboo according to the size and shape shown in the drawings. They are
covered with bamboo paper and given two coats of bamboo varnish.
The propellers are of the racing type and carved from wood in the manner
described in the chapter on propellers.
[Illustration: Plate X.]
The machine is fitted with skids to prevent possible damage to the
propeller and planes. The front plane is bent so as to form a slight
dihedral angle. This tends to make the machine keep to a straight
course.
[Illustration: FIG. 55. Racing blank and propeller.]
The rubber skeins are each composed of 7 to 10 strands of 3/32 x 3/32
inch rubber. The best number will have to be determined for each
particular machine.
Fleming-Williams Flyer. (Plate X.)
The Fleming-Williams model is a type well known in England where it has
won many prizes. The motor base is a piece of "T" section wood 48 inches
long. The detailed dimensions of the "T" section are given on the plate.
A crosspiece B, 5/16 square and 8 1/2 inches long is fastened at one end
of the motor by gluing and lashing as shown in the drawing.
Two braces, C, C, 1/8 x 1/4 inches in section are lashed near the ends
of the cross piece and brought together on the motor base so as to form
a triangle. This is covered with bamboo paper to form a triangular
shaped plane called the stabilizer.
The bearings are simple strips of hard sheet aluminum bent around the
ends of the cross brace and fastened into place with several small
screws.
The main plane is formed by bending 1/32nd inch drill rod into the shape
shown in the detailed drawing on the plate. Mark out the wing form on a
board, and by means of nails driven into the board around the outline,
bend the drill rod into shape, splicing the ends neatly with some fine
wire. Then bend the ribs into shape and twist the ends around the wing
form. It is a very good plan to solder all joints. Cover the frame with
bamboo paper and when dry apply two coats of "bamboo varnish."
Drill a hole through the motor base at the front to receive a piece of
steel wire. Bend the wire to form two anchor hooks.
The propellers are each 8 inches in diameter. Each propeller is driven
by a skein composed of 50 feet of 3/32 x 3/32 rubber.
The main plane is fastened temporarily to the motor base with rubber
bands. Its normal position is about 17 inches from the tip of the
machine, but its exact position will have to be determined by
experiment. After it is formed, the plane should be fastened into
position more securely.
The propellers must be of opposite pitch and wound in opposite
directions. Each should receive from 500 to 600 turns. The model is
launched by casting from the hand as though it were a spear.
FLYING THE MODELS.
A suitable winder of some sort is essential for winding up the strands
of a model aeroplane.
A winder is most easily made from an egg beater of the dover pattern.
The egg beater is dismantled and fitted up in the manner shown in the
illustration. The blades are fitted with hooks which engage those on the
end of the rubber skein.
[Illustration: Plate XI. Winding a model.]
In order to wind a model remove the skeins from the anchor hooks and
hook them on the winder. Have some one hold the machine at the rear end,
slipping the fingers around the propellers to keep them from untwisting.
Stretch the skeins out to about twice their normal length and commence
to wind. Gradually shorten the skein as the winding progresses until, at
the time it is finished, it is down to its normal length.
[Illustration: FIG. 56. A winder made from an egg beater.]
In winding the machine be careful to do it in such a manner that the
machine is not wrenched or twisted. Always count the number of turns
given the winder so that there will be no danger of twisting them up too
tightly and causing them to break.
The successful flying of a model aeroplane is an acquired knack just
like swimming or bicycle riding. It is usually necessary to make several
attempts before the model can be made to fly well. As soon as one gets
acquainted with the vagaries of a model aeroplane it is a very easy
matter to launch and adjust a machine.
The large page in the front of the book shows the right way of launching
a model. The fingers are passed over the propellers and the frame
grasped firmly, but gently. The tip of the machine should be raised and
pointed slightly upward. Then give it a gentle slow push forward and
release it. Always launch a machine into the wind, that is against it.
The machine will fly forward, rise rapidly, turn completely around and
race down the wind for a thousand feet or more in the case of some of
the larger machines described in this book when properly adjusted.
All the models described in this book with the exception of the first
three must be flown out of doors because, when properly handled, they
will travel upwards of one thousand feet.
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Wireless Telegraphy and Telephony
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By ALFRED P. MORGAN
A NEW BOOK by the author of "Wireless Telegraph
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This is undoubtedly one of the most complete and comprehensive treatises
on the subject ever published, and a close study of its pages will
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The book treats the subject from an entirely new standpoint. Several
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It is a book which the wireless experimenter cannot afford to be
without. It will prove even more valuable to the layman.
Among the contents are: Introductory. Wireless Transmission and
reception. The ether. Electrical Oscillations. Electro-magnetic waves.
The means for radiating and intercepting electric waves. Aerial Systems.
Earth Connection. The Transmitting Apparatus. Current Supply. Spark
Coils and Transformers. Condensers. Helixes. Spark Gaps. Anchor Gaps.
Aerial Switches, Etc. The Receiving Apparatus. Detectors, etc. Tuning
Coils and Loose Couplers. Variable Condensers. Tuning and Coupling.
Directive Wave Telegraphy. The Dignity of Wireless. Its applications and
service. Wireless in the army and navy. Wireless on an aeroplane. How a
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hear. Sound and Sound Waves. The Vocal Cords. The Structure of Speech.
The Telephone Transmitter and Receiver. The Photophone. The Thermophone.
The Selenium.
Handsomely bound in cloth with embossed cover
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*Build Your Own Wireless Instruments*
*Complete Up-to-the-Minute Authentic Practical*
WIRELESS TELEGRAPH
CONSTRUCTION FOR AMATEURS
By ALFRED POWELL MORGAN
3d EDITION
220 Pages 163 Illustrations
*Price*, $1.50, *Postpaid*
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Thoroughly up to date and unusually complete. Gives in minute detail,
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Directions for Operating and Adjusting, etc.
*A SPLENDID TREATISE OF WIRELESS ALONG*
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_Price_, $1.50, _Postpaid_
*CONTENTS OF CHAPTERS*
I.—Introduction. II.—The Apparatus. III.—Aerials and Earth Connections.
IV.—Induction Coils. V.—Interrupters. VI.—Transformers. VII.—Oscillation
Condensers and Leyden Jars. VIII.—Spark Gaps or Oscillators.
IX.—Transmitting Helixes. X.—Keys. XI.—Aerial Switches and Anchor Gaps.
XII.—Hot Wire Ammeter. XIII.—Oscillation Detectors. XIV.—Tuning Coils
and Tuning Transformers. XV.—Receiving Condensers. XVI.—Telephone
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Wireless Law. How to Secure a License. Oscillation Helix. Quenched Spark
Gap. Rotary Gaps. Kick-Back. The Variometer. New Crystal Detectors. The
Audion.—Appendix.
ENDORSED BY WIRELESS CLUBS THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY AS BEING
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The value of this book has been greatly increased by the addition of
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The new text explains fully how to build the most recent forms of
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*If you are interested in Wireless you need this book.*
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It contains 36 pages of wireless calls, 1500 in all. The list is
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*BUT, THAT IS NOT ALL.*
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THE CODES, BOTH MORSE AND CONTINENTAL, are shown in the form of two
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A BEGINNER’S SPEED CHART of both Codes so arranged that the codes may be
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All the Abbreviations used so constantly by the wireless operator to
save time and labor are included. There are a couple of pages of them.
*And last but not least*
And last but not least Over 100 large hook-ups of wiring diagrams fully
illustrated in a concise and clear manner. Loop and straightaway
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They are all there. There are no two alike.
The most complete and reliable data ever collected. The result of
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*The Operation of Wireless Telegraph Apparatus*
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*IT ALSO DESCRIBES* the construction and use of a simple, inexpensive
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*EXTRACTS FROM THE LAW* are also given in such a manner that they are
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Launches, Yachts, etc. By Norman H. Schneider. Giving full
details and illustrations of the most up-to-date small American
Plants. Contents of chapters. 1. Introduction. 2. The Storage
Battery. 3. Estimating the Installation. 4. The Electric Plant.
5. Some Typical Plants. 6. Installation and Operation. 95 pages,
27 illustrations.
*PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR WIRELESS TELEGRAPH SETS, Part II*,
by A. F. Collins. Complete and detailed data for constructing a
five to ten mile set, also a ten to twenty-five mile set. 1. A
five to ten mile tuned transmitter. 2. A five to ten mile tuned
coherer receptor. 3. A five to ten mile tuned auto-detector
receptor. 4 and 5. A ten to twenty-five mile tuned transmitter.
6. A ten to twenty-five mile tuned coherer receptor. 7. A ten to
twenty-five mile auto-detector receptor. 80 pages, 63
illustrations.
*PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR WIRELESS TELEGRAPH SETS, Part I*,
by A. Frederick Collins. Complete and detailed instructions for
making an experimental set, also a one to five mile set. 1. An
experimental transmitter. An experimental receptor. 3. A one to
five mile transmitter. 4. A one to five miles coherer receptor.
5. A one to five mile auto-receptor. 55 pages, 37 illustrations.
*MODEL FLYING MACHINES, THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION.*
By W. G. Aston. Contents of chapters: 1. General principles and
their application. 2. Power. 3. Supporting surfaces. 4. Screws,
and how to make them. 5. Tails and elevators. 6. Fins. 7.
Designs. With a number of examples of monoplane, bi-plane, tandem
bi-plane and tri-plane models. 8. Dirigibles. 9. Helicopters. 10.
Ornithopters. 11. Winding apparatus. 12. Compressed air motor. A
first-rate book for Model Makers, 125 pages, 95 illustrations,
12mo. boards, postpaid, for 550.
*MODEL GLIDERS, BIRDS, BUTTERFLIES AND AEROPLANES.*
How to Make and Fly Them. A booklet with one large sheet
containing twelve butterflies and two birds in colors and
material for making a small card-board Model Aeroplane Glider.
Complete in folder, postpaid, for 55c.
*MODEL AEROPLANES, HOW TO BUILD AND FLY THEM.*
By E. W. Twining. Consisting of one booklet and five large scaled
drawings for three Twining Models, two of them being of the
Bi-plane Glider type. Complete in folder, postpaid, for 55c.
*THE AEROPLANE PORTFOLIO.*
By D. Ross Kennedy. Containing nine sheets of scale drawings of
the following celebrated Aeroplanes: Bi-plane type-Wright,
Farman, Voisin, Cody, Herring-Curtis. Monoplanes—Rep. Antoinette,
Santos Dumont, and Bleriot. Each of these machines are here shown
in End View, Plan and Elevation. Including booklet which contains
a description of each machine. This timely set of drawings should
prove of value to everyone interested in this important new
industry. The complete set in folder, postpaid, for 55c.
*THE PERCY PIERCE FLYER.*
A large scale drawing of this prize-winning Monoplane. With all
measurements and details showing a front elevation, a side
elevation and a top elevation; with 8-page descriptive booklet of
particulars postpaid, 15c.
*HOW TO BUILD A 20-FT BIPLANE GLIDING MACHINE,*
that will carry a man. By A. P. Morgan. A practical handbook on
its construction and management. Enabling an intelligent reader
to make his first step in the field of aviation with a
comprehensive understanding of some of the principles involved.
Fully illustrated with detailed drawings. Contents of chapters:
1. The frame work assembling and finishing the wood. 2. Covering
the planes, laying out the fabric and fastening it. 3. Trussing,
fastening the tie-rods and trueing the glider. 4. Gliding flight,
the principles involved, instructions and precautions. 5.
Remarks. 60 pages, 31 illustrations.
*ELECTRICIAN AND MECHANIC*
Is a magazine which will help you. It is a practical monthly for every
one who wants to learn about electricity, or who uses tools. Its
articles tell you how to make dynamos, engines, wireless telegraph
apparatus, furniture, models, etc. It is the only magazine of its kind
in the world.
EDITORS:
Frank Roy Frapie, M. Sc. Chem., F. R. P. S.
Prof. A. E. Watson, E. E., Ph. D.
M. O. Sampson.
*CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES*
*Electricity.*
Practical and simple articles on electrical science, new
applications and history, all illustrated. How to make dynamos,
motors, batteries, all kinds of electrical apparatus. How to wire
for bells and electric lights, install telephones, etc.
*Mechanical Articles.*
How to use lathes and machine tools. How to build gas engines,
steam engines and other machines. All about gas engines and
flying machines. Illustrated articles on everything new in
mechanical progress.
*Woodworking and Manual Training.*
How to build mission furniture. Wood finishing, staining,
polishing, etc. Woodwork joints and cabinet making. How to make
useful and handy articles of wood. Mechanical drawing, etc.
*Wireless Telegraphy and Telephony.*
Full information of all that is new in wireless. Any one can
build a wireless station from our descriptions. Our Wireless Club
has over a thousand members in America and even beyond the seas.
For seven years the wireless authority in the magazine line.
*All articles written in simple language for everybody to read. $1.50 a
year, 3 months’ trial 25c.*
SPECIAL OFFER
Until our stock of back numbers is exhausted, we offer six back numbers
and a full year’s subscription for $1.50. Money orders only; no stamps
accepted.
SAMPSON PUBLISHING COMPANY
161 Pope Building BOSTON, MASS.
_When writing to advertisers, please mention this book._
Materials for Building
MODEL AEROPLANES
will be found listed in our catalog of apparatus and supplies for
EXPERIMENTERS
*WE ARE HEADQUARTERS for Rubber Strand, Bamboo Sticks*
and all the rest of the things that you need
*WIRELESS TELEGRAPH APPARATUS*
We manufacture the largest line of RELIABLE wireless
Apparatus in the country
Efficient Design Reasonable Cost Excellent Appearance
Skillful Workmanship and Unequalled Efficiency
are all yours when you buy AMCO Apparatus.
OUR CATALOG
Shows, Storage Cells, Step Down Transformers, Rectifiers, Induction
Coils,
Wireless Instruments, Complete Transmitting and Receiving Outfits,
Telephones,
Keys, Sounders, Flashlights, Lamps, Motors, Dynamos, Water Motors,
Railways,
Model Aeroplanes, Books, Parts and Supplies.
*Send 4 cents in stamps to help cover cost of mailing and ask for a copy
of our catalog.*
ADAMS - MORGAN CO.
*"The Experimenters Supply House"*
*Box 72i Upper Montclair, N. J.*