CHAPTER X

1835-1837

_Lady Campbell to Miss Eden._

_July, 1835._

I HAVE really escaped with my life--_I ain’t dead yet_, but such a big

monster of a girl![423]--a regular Megalonia of a female, that if you

happened to find a loose joint of hers you would think it must belong to

an antediluvian Ox. Je vous demande un peu what am I to do with a

seventh girl of such dimensions?

Well, my own darling, your letter came just as I was allowed to read,

and it cheered me and delighted me, because you know we cannot help

thinking just the same, and my weak sides shook with laughter, and then

I cried because I do love you so much that I take a pining to see you,

and I am sure you do long to have me within reach of your Ship Hotel or

Ship Inn, for you are too wise to look upon it as more than your

Hostelrie!...

Do you remember how we always liked a maxim? I like a maxim, and I like

a good stout axiom, and a good compact system laid out straight without

any exception in any rule, a good due North and South argument, and

without any of your dippings of needle and variation of the compass. All

this we had in the Tories--but, alas, where are they now? _Ils ne sont

plus ces jours_, and I believe _we are_ the Tories. I think that Lord

Winchester, _e tutti quanti_, must feel like the old woman after her

_réveil_ when she found her petticoat cut off above the knee by that

most clever pedlar Peel.

Do you ever see him now? What a fight Peel made of it, and as

Plunkett[424] said to me, “Alone he did it,” and I forgive him two or

three sins, because, that tho’ he is a bad Chancellor, he loves the

Immortal.

My dear, I grieve to say what a _desperately good_ Chancellor Sugden

made.[425] Couldn’t we hire him? All parties liked him except the

ultra-radical dreg of the canaille. He is vain and pompous; but he

amused me because his vanity is of such a communicative nature that he

would talk his character out to me by the hour, and I like any

confession, even a fool’s. But a clever man’s is very amusing, and I

pick out a bit of human nature and human character as attentively as I

see botanists pick petals and pistils.

It is very good of Lord Auckland to stand for my girl. I really believe

she is harmless, for she could knock me down, but she is merciful! What

shall we call her? I had some thoughts of Rhinocera. She was born the

day the Rhinoceros landed, or Cuvier,[426] because I was reading his

life and works just before she was born, and took a passion for him.

Might she not be called Eden?--Her other name is to be Madeline--her

Godmother’s name....

My baby was christened Caroline Frances Eden, and I constantly call her

Eden. I think it sounds very feminine and _Eve_-ish.

_Miss Eden to Lady Campbell._

ADMIRALITY,

_July 1835._

MY OWN DEAREST PAM, George wrote to tell you of the awful change in our

destination,[427] and I have been so worried, and have had so much to do

with seeing and hearing the representations of friends, and taking leave

of many who are gone out of town and whom I shall never see again, that

I could not write.

Besides, what is there to say, except, “God’s will be done.” It all

comes to that. I certainly look at the climate with dread, and to the

voyage with utter aversion. Then, we leave a very happy existence here,

and then, worst of all, we leave my sisters and a great many friends.

But still, there is always another side to the question, and I suppose

we shall find it in time. One thing is quite certain, I could not have

lived here without George, so I may be very thankful that my health has

been so good this year that I have no difficulty on that account, as to

going with him. And as other people have liked India and have come back

to say so, perhaps we shall do the same.

What I would give for a talk with you--that you might put it all in a

cheerful light. It makes no difference in our affection or _communion_

that has stood the test of such long absence that 14,000 miles more will

not break it down.

I am going to-morrow for ten days to Mary [Drummond]; she is in a

desperate way about our plans....

By all means stick an “Eden” into your child’s name. Your most

affectionate

E. E.

_Miss Eden to Lady Campbell_.

ADMIRALTY,

_[August] 1835._

MY DEAREST PAM, Our letters crossed, and yours was just what I wanted,

and you are as great a dear as ever, only I am never to be allowed to

see you....

A week ago we began our preparations. You do not and cannot guess what

that is--and I have despaired of writing you even a line--I never knew

before _really_ what it was to have no time. And besides the deep-seated

real Indian calamity, you cannot think what a whirl and entanglement

buying and measuring and trying on makes in one’s brain; and poor

Goliath himself would have been obliged to lie down and rest if he had

tried on six pairs of stays consecutively. We sometimes are three hours

at a time shopping, and I could fling myself down and scratch the floor

like a dog that is trying to make a feather bed of the boards when I

come home.

It is so irritating to want so many things and such cold articles. A

cargo of _large fans_; a _silver busk_, because all steel busks become

rusty and spoil the stays; nightdresses with short sleeves, and net

nightcaps, because muslin is too hot. Then such anomalies--quantities of

flannel which I never wear at all in this cool climate, but which we are

to wear at night there, because the creatures who are pulling all night

at the Punkahs sometimes fall asleep. Then you wake from the extreme

heat and call to them, then they wake and begin pulling away with such

fresh vigour that you catch your death with a sudden chill. What a life!

However, it is no use thinking about it.

My present aim in writing is to ask whether there is not anybody in or

near Dublin who can make a sketch of you, something in the Edridge[428]

or Slater line, not very extravagant in price, and if you do not mind,

sitting for it for me. I will send its price by Lord Morpeth, when he

goes, and you must send it me either by a private hand, or if not, we

can have it sent under cover to George, if it is carefully packed. Will

you?

What do you think of the Lords? It is hardly possible to conceive such

hopeless folly, and it is clear that they are the only living animals

that cannot learn experience.

We shall be off in less than a month I believe, not that I believe

anything somehow,--I feel too dreamy and bewildered. Your ever affect.

E. E.

_Miss Eden to her Sister, Mrs. Drummond._

ADMIRALTY,

_Saturday [September 1835]._

MY VERY DEAR MARY, Your note was a sad blow to me; but perhaps it is

best that we should so have parted, and I am very thankful that we

should have had this week together. I am thankful for many things--that

we love each other so entirely; that you have a husband who has been so

invariably kind to all of us, and whom I can love in return; and then,

that your girls seem to me like real friends, and almost like my own

children. All these are great goods and absence cannot touch them. God

bless you, my darling Sister. Your ever affectionate

E. EDEN.

_Lady Campbell to Miss Eden._

CARTON,

_September 1, 1835._

I fear there is no good sketcher in Dublin, but there is a man who does

paint something like a miniature, and does catch a likeness, and it

shall be done for you next week, my darling. I never have you out of my

mind a minute, and I always thought I should not be sorry if a change

sent a Tory out instead of you.... I feel cheerful about you because you

are doing what is right, and only think what you would have been

suffering now if you were seeing him prepared to go without you....

Shall we take good in this world and not take the evil, _our old

compensations_? You might have lived years without either you or George

knowing how much you loved each other, and is there not an utter delight

in this feeling of devotion twice blessed?

Let me know how I am to write to you, and how to send my letters. How

little did I imagine when I read of India, and looked on those hot,

misty, gorgeous Indian views, that I should ever garner up part of my

heart there. I am staying here.[429] I always like them, but there is a

want of colour and life and impulse. There are many positive virtues

present, and an absence of all vice and evil, but yet something is

wanted. There is the dreaminess of Sleepy Hollow upon them.

Send me a bit of your hair, my darling, and always bear me in your

“heart of hearts, as I do thee, Horatio.” I cannot believe it yet, nor

do you, dearest, in spite of the preparations, and it is best you should

not believe it till it is over....

It must be done, and so it had best be well done! and I will not hang to

your skirts and make it harder for you to go forward and do right, only

I felt all the love I have borne you for all these years choking me till

I sobbed it well out, you whom I loved as my own sister.... I was not

surprised at it; I felt it would be, it was so like life--such a horrid

piece of good fortune, such a painful bit of right to be done.

How right the Wise Men were to come _from_ the East! Only, I should not

have been particular about going back again; I had rather have stayed

and sat in Herod’s back-parlour for the rest of my life.

When once it is over you will be very busy and very amused. Emmy, I mean

to open an account with you. I mean to keep a letter always going to

you, and so tell you every week what I am thinking about, because, you

know, in India, without any vanity, I may be very sure my letters will

be valuable. It will cool you to read anything coming from the damp

West.... I have been so eager about the Corporations, for Corporation in

this Country means abomination! And when I heard them all spitting and

scratching about the Tithe Bill, I thought what will they say to the

Corporation Bill that sweeps so much farther.

There is a great deal of rage and fury fermenting here, but I think

there will be no explosion. I own I am sorry to see that the fury of the

Orangemen, tho’ it may not drive the lower orders of Protestants to

fight, will, by making him fancy himself ill-used, persuade him to

emigrate. Thousands are preparing to emigrate.

I do not hope to see Ireland better in my time, and it often makes me so

sad, for I do love it with the love one feels towards the child that is

most weak, most sick.

_Miss Eden to Mrs. Lister._

ADMIRALTY,

_Thursday, September 1835._

MY DEAREST THERESA, I was very near you yesterday, and at the time I had

appointed, but my heart failed me about taking leave for so long a time,

and as I took one of those fits of lowness which sometimes come over me

now (partly from real bodily fatigue), I saw I should do nothing but cry

if I went to you, and that would be hard upon you and tiresome withal.

Besides, taking leave is at the best of times a hateful process, so I

would not go to you. And now, God bless you and yours, my very dear

friend. I daresay when I come back I shall find _you_ just what you are

now, and _yours_ very much increased in number and size.

Be sure to write to me a fortnight at the very latest after you see our

departure announced, and put your letter under cover to Lord Auckland,

Government House, Calcutta, and put it in the common post, if that is

more convenient to you. Otherwise, if you can find anybody to frank it

to Captain Grindlay, 16 Cornhill, he is our agent, and will at all times

take charge of letters and parcels for us. Pray give my best love and

wishes to Mrs. Villiers. Ever your affectionate

E. E.

_Miss Eden to Mrs. Lister._

ADMIRALTY,

_September 1835._

MY DEAREST THERESA, I have received your pretty bracelet with tears,

which is a foolish way of accepting what is very dear to me, but every

day my heart grows more sore, and I look with greater despondency to an

utter separation from such kind friends as mine have proved themselves.

I did not need anything, dearest, to remind me of you. Our friendship

has happily, as far as I remember, been entirely free from even those

little coolnesses and irritations which will mix sometimes with the

closest intimacies. I cannot recollect the slightest _tiff_ between us,

and therefore I have no fears of the _effect_ of absence, but still the

absence itself is most painful. And your bracelet will then be an actual

comfort to me, and besides thinking it so particularly pretty in itself,

I am glad that it is one that I may wear constantly without fear of

injuring it. I have put it on my arm, and there it will stay, I hope,

till we meet again.

I am just setting off to Eastcombe to fetch home Fanny, who will be

delighted with your recollection of her. To-morrow we are to go to the

_Jupiter_ to settle the arrangements of our cabins, but Wednesday, late

in the day, we will go to Knightsbridge.

God bless you, my very dear friend. Many thanks for this and all the

many kindnesses you have shown me. Your ever affectionate

E. E.

_Lord Melbourne to Miss Eden._

SOUTH STREET,

_September 24, 1835._

My Mother always used to say that I was very selfish, both Boy and Man,

and I believe she was right--at least I know that I am always anxious to

escape from anything of a painful nature, and find every excuse for

doing so. Very few events could be more painful to me than your going,

and therefore I am not unwilling to avoid wishing you good-bye. Then God

bless you--as to health, let us hope for the best. The climate of the

East Indies very often re-establishes it.

I send you a _Milton_, which I have had a long time, and often read in.

I shall be most anxious to hear from you and promise to write. Adieu.

Yours,

MELBOURNE.

_King William IV. to Miss Eden._

WINDSOR CASTLE,

_September 26, 1835._

The King cannot suffer Miss Eden to quit this country without thanking

her for the letter she wrote to Him on the 24th inst., and assuring her

of the satisfaction with which He received it.

His Majesty has long been aware of the sincere attachment which exists

between Lord Auckland and his amiable Sisters, and of his anxiety for

their Welfare and happiness, and he gives him credit for this exemplary

feature of his character, not less than He does for the ability and

correct zeal with which he has discharged his Public Duties.

Lord Auckland’s conduct at the Admiralty has indeed been so satisfactory

to the King, that it is impossible He should not regret his Removal from

that Department, though His Majesty trusts that the Interests of the

Country have been consulted in his nomination to the high and important

Situation of Governor-General of India, and sincerely hopes that it may

conduce to his own advantage and satisfaction.

His Majesty is not surprised that Miss Eden and her Sister should have

determined to accompany so affectionate a Brother even to so remote a

destination, and He is sensible how much their Society must contribute

to his comfort, for the uninterrupted continuance of which, and of their

welfare, He assures them of His best Wishes.

WILLIAM R.

[The end of September 1835 Lord Auckland, his two sisters, his

nephew William Godolphin Osborne, their six servants, and Chance

the dog, started on a five-months’ voyage in a sailing-ship to

India. Miss Eden described in her book, _Letters from India_, their

many adventures on board ship, and her impressions of life in

Calcutta. Her water-colour sketches of Funchal, Rio in Brazil, Cape

Town, and her “Portraits of Princes and Natives,” make excellent

illustrations to all the long letters written during her six years’

absence from England.

In 1916 an Exhibition of Miss Eden’s paintings, chosen and arranged

by Mr. F. Harrington, was held at Belvidere, Calcutta, the first

sketch mentioned in the catalogue being that of Chance.

“I had such a pretty present this morning, at least rather pretty.

It is a baby-elephant, nine months old, caught at Saharanpur by the

jemadar of the mahouts, and he has been educating it for me, and

offered it by way of Captain D., his master. William and I have

been looking about for some time for a gigantic goat for Chance to

ride on great occasions, but a youthful elephant is much more

correct, and is the sort of thing Runjeet’s dogs will expect. It

just comes up to my elbow, seems to have Chance’s own little bad

temper and his love of eating, and is altogether rather like him.”]

_Miss Eden to Lady Campbell._

N. LAT. 17, LONG. 21,

_February 18, 1836_.

MY DEAREST PAM, I got William to write to you from the Cape, as we were

in a flurry of writing, visiting, and surveying Africa, and he had more

time, having been there before. We have had a very smooth sea, and I can

read and draw and write, and as we all are perfectly well, there is not

much to complain of, except of the actual disease--a long voyage, which

is a very bad illness in itself, but we have had it in the mildest form

and with every possible mitigation. At the same time I cannot spare you

the detail of all our hardships, and I know you will shudder to hear

that last Saturday, the fifth day of a dead calm, not a cloud visible,

and the Master threatening three weeks more of the same weather, the

thermometer at 86 in the cabin,--tempers on the go and meals more than

ever the important points of life,--at this awful crisis the Steward

announced that the coffee and orange-marmalade were both come to an end.

No wonder the ship is so light, we have actually ate it a foot out of

the water since we left the Cape. “Nasty Beasts,” as Liston says. Your

lively imagination will immediately guess how bad the butter is, and I

mention the gratifying fact that two small pots of Guava Jelly and the

N.E. Monsoon sprung up on Monday, and we hope their united forces may

carry us to the Sandheads.

I never could like a sea life, nor do I believe that anybody does, but

with all our grumbling about ours, we could not have been 19 weeks at

sea, with so few inconveniences. Captain Grey is an excellent seaman,

and does more of the work of his ship than is usual. The officers and

midshipmen have acted several times for our diversion, and remarkably

well.

The serious drama, _Ella Rosenberg_, was enough to kill one. Ella’s

petticoats were so short, and her cap with her plaits of oakum always

would fall off when she fainted away, and a tall Quartermaster, who

acted the confidant, would call her Hella, and never caught her in time!

Some of the sailors were heard talking over the officers’ acting, and

saying, “They do low comedy pretty well, but they do not understand how

to act the gentleman at all.”

How little we thought in old Grosvenor Street days, when we sat at the

little window listening to the organ-man playing “Portrait charmant”

while the carriage was adjusting itself at the door, that we should be

parted in such an out-_sea_-ish sort of way. That in the middle of

February, when we ought to be shivering in a thick yellow fog, George

and I should be established on a pile of cushions in the stern window of

his cabin, he without his coat, waistcoat, and shoes, learning

Hindoostanee by the sweat of his brow. I, with only one petticoat and a

thin dressing-gown on, a large fan in one hand and a pen in the other,

and neither of us able to attend to our occupations because my little

black spaniel will yap at us, to make us look at the shark which is

playing “Portrait charmant” to two little pilot-fish close under the

window.

I should like to go back to those Grosvenor St. days again. I have had

so much time for thinking over old times lately, that I never knew my

own life thoroughly before. I can quite fancy sometimes that if we could

think in our graves (and who knows), my thoughts would be just what they

are now--the same vivid recollections of former friends and scenes, and

the same yearning to be with them again. There is hardly anything you

and I have talked over, that has not come to life in my mind again, and

I could wring my hands, and tear my hair out, to go back and do it all

over again.

The cottage at Boyle Farm, W. de Roos’s troubles, Henry Montagu, the

Sarpent,[430] even that old Danford[431] with the wen, Mrs. Shepherd and

the Hossy Jossies. Dear me! Did I ever have jollier days with anybody or

love anybody better?

Do write and tell me all about yourself now, and your children--I don’t

half know them. There is a tassel of small ones, like the tassel at the

end of a kite’s tail, that I know nothing about--not even their names.

Tell me all their histories. There is an Emily,[432] I know. What shall

I send her from Calcutta if we ever arrive there? It is now five months

since we have been travelling away from letters, and I feel such hot

tears come into my eyes when I think of....

_Monday, February 29, 1836._--I thought we should have been coming home

with our fortunes made by this time, but we are still within a hundred

miles of the Sandheads. At this precise moment we are at anchor in

_green_ water, so different to the deep blue sea, near some shoals,

which is advantageous, because we can pick up our petticoats and pick

our way to land.

_Thursday. In the Hooghly._--At last, by dint of very great patience and

very little wind, we have arrived, got the pilot on board early

yesterday morning, saw Saugur, which looks as if it had been gnawed to

the bone by the tigers that live on it. We are surrounded by boats

manned by black people, who, by some strange inadvertance, have utterly

forgotten to put on any cloaks whatever. We have a steamer towing us, a

civil welcome from Sir C. Metcalfe;[433] a Prince of Oudh, who has been

deposed by an undutiful nephew, and deprived of several lacs of rupees,

asking for his Excellency, well knowing that the first word even in

Hindoostanee is valuable, which is so much his Excellency’s opinion,

that he wisely refuses to hear it, and, above all, we have received a

profusion of letters from home, ten fat ones for my own share. Nothing

unpleasant in them, which, considering some are dated five weeks after

we left England, is something to be thankful for.

Cecilia de Roos’s[434] marriage; and poor old Lady Salisbury,[435] it

somehow seems as if nothing but fire could destroy her. I am going down

to look over the box that contains the dresses in which we are to appear

at our first Drawing-room to-morrow, and my blonde gown may, and in all

probability will, come out quite yellow and fresh-patterned by the

cockroaches. Your most affectionate

E. EDEN.

_Miss Eden to Mrs. Lister._

BARRACKPORE,

_March 24, 1836_.

MY DEAREST THERESA, In the utter bewilderment in which I live, from

having more to do in the oven than I could get through comfortably in a

nice bracing frost, I quite forget whether I wrote to you on my first

arrival. I sent off so many letters, necessarily precisely like one

another, that I have forgotten all about them, except that they

announced our arrival after a five months’ voyage, and that we were in

all the nervousness of a first arrival in a hot land of strangers.

We have been here three weeks to-day, and are so accustomed to our way

of life that I cannot help thinking we have been here much longer, and

that it is nearly time to go home again. It is an odd dreamy existence

in many respects, but horribly fatiguing realities breaking into it. It

is more like a constant theatrical representation going on; everything

is so picturesque and so utterly un-English. Wherever there is any state

at all it is on the grandest scale. Every servant at Government House is

a picture by himself, in his loose muslin robes, with scarlet and gold

ropes round his waist, and his scarlet and gold turban over masses of

black hair; and on the esplanade I hardly ever pass a native that I do

not long to stop and sketch--some in satin and gold, and then perhaps

the next thing you meet is a nice English Britschka with good horses

driven by a turbaned coachman, and a tribe of running footmen by its

side, and in it is one of the native Princes, dressed just as he was

when he first came into the world, sitting cross-legged on the front

seat very composedly smoking his hookah.

Then, after passing a house that is much more like a palace than

anything we see in England, we come to a row of mud-thatched huts with

wild, black-looking savages squatting in front of them, little black

native children running up and down the cocoa-trees above the huts, and

no one appearance of civilization that would lead one to guess any

European had ever set foot on the land before. The next minute we may

come to a palace again, or to a regiment of Sepoys in the highest state

of discipline, or to a body burning on the river-shore, or another body

floating down the river with vultures working away at it. Then, if

George is with us, we may meet a crowd of white-muslined men who begin

by knocking their heads against the ground, and then give their long

petitions (asking for some impossibility) in the Hindustani language, or

else an English petition, which is apparently a set of words copied from

some dictionary. No sense whatever--otherwise an excellent petition.

I have described our Calcutta house and household so often that I cannot

do it again. It is all very magnificent, but I cannot endure our life

there. We go there on Monday morning before breakfast. We have great

dinners of 50 people, “fathers and mothers unknown,” to say nothing of

themselves. Every Monday and Wednesday evening Fanny and I are at home

to anybody who is on what is called the Government House List. What that

is I cannot say; the Aides-de-Camp settle it between them, and if they

are the clever young men I hope they are, they naturally place on it the

ladies most agreeable to themselves.

On Thursday morning we also receive any people who chance to notify

themselves the day before. The visiting-time is from ten to one in the

mornings, and we found it so fatiguing to have 100 or 120 people at that

time of day that we have now chosen Tuesday evenings and Thursday

mornings, and do not mean to be at home the rest of the week. There are

schools to visit, and ceremonies half the week. Yesterday we had an

examination at Government House of the Hindu College, and the great

banqueting-hall was completely filled with natives of the higher class.

Some of the boys in their gorgeous dresses looked very well, reciting

and acting scenes from Shakespeare. It is one of the prettiest sights I

have seen in Calcutta. On Thursday afternoon we always come here, and a

prodigious pleasure it is. It feels something like home. It is sixteen

miles from Calcutta, on the river-side. A beautiful fresh green park, a

lovely flower-garden, a menagerie that has been neglected; but there is

a foundation of a tiger and a leopard and two rhinoceros’, and we can

without trouble throw in a few light monkeys and birds to these heavy

articles. It is much cooler here, and we can step out in the evening and

walk a few hundred yards undisturbed.

Then, though we ask a few of the magnates of the land, and a wife or a

daughter or so each time, they are lodged in separate bungalows in the

park, and never appear but at luncheon and dinner, and are no trouble.

We are so many in the family naturally, that seven or eight more or less

make no difference at those times, and I take a drive or a ride on the

elephant alone with George very regularly.

I never see him at Calcutta except in a crowd. In short, Barrackpore is,

I see, to save me from India. I believe the Aides-de-Camp and

secretaries all detest it, but there is no necessity to know that.

George has made William Osborne Military Secretary, which gives him a

very good income, and plenty to do. He has talent enough for anything,

luckily likes occupation, and is very happy. Captain Grey is living with

us, but the _Jupiter_ sails the end of next week. I am afraid he will

have a tiresome journey home; he takes back many more soldiers than the

ship can conveniently hold, and not only that, but such quantities of

wives and children.

I hope you have written to me; you would if you knew the ravenous

craving for letters that possesses the wretches who are sent here. They

are the only things to care for; you cannot mention a name that will not

interest me, whereas I can never find one that you have ever heard

before. Fanny desires me to say she wears your brooch constantly. I need

not mention that of my dear bracelet. I hope in a few weeks we shall

find something to send home, but hitherto we have found nothing but very

dear French goods. Please write.

Give my love to your brother George when you see him or write to him.

Now that I am dead and buried I sit in my hot grave and think over all

the people I liked in the other world, and I find nobody that I knew had

more community of interests and amusements with their kind. I often long

for a laugh and talk with him, but it would be too pleasant for the

climate.

Tell me an immense deal about yourself, and do write, there’s a duck.

Your most affectionate

E. E.

_Miss Eden to Lady Campbell._

GOVERNMENT HOUSE, CALCUTTA,

_August 16, 1836_.

MY DEAREST PAM, Your long, dear letter has actually found its way

here--came in last week quite by itself, having travelled 15,000 miles

with nobody to take care of it, and it arrived feeling quite well and

not a bit altered since it left you. I cannot sufficiently explain the

value of a letter here; rupees in any number could not express the sum

which a letter is worth, and I do not know how to make you understand

it. But, you see, the scene in India is so well got up to show off a

letter.

I was suddenly picked up out of a large collection of brothers, sisters,

and intimate friends, with heaps of daily interests and habits of long

standing, devoted to the last night’s debate and this morning’s paper,

detesting the heat of even an English summer, worshipping autumn, and

rather rejoicing in a sharp East wind, with a passion for sketching in

the country, and enjoying an easy life in town--with all this we are

sent off out of the reach of even _letters_ from home, to an entirely

new society of a most second-rate description,--to a life of forms and

Aides-de-Camp half the day, and darkness and solitude the other

half--and to a climate!!

Topics of interest we have none indigenous to the soil. There is a great

deal of gossip, I believe, but in the first place, I do not know the

people sufficiently by name or by sight to attach the right history to

the right face, even if I wanted to hear it, and we could not get into

any intimacies even if we wished it, for in our _despotic_ Government,

where the whole patronage of this immense country is in the hands of the

Governor-General, the intimacy of any one person here would put the rest

of the society into a fume, and it is too hot for any super-induced

fuming....

The real _calamity_ of the life is the separation from home and friends.

It feels like death, and all the poor mothers here who have to part from

their children from five years old to seventeen are more to be pitied

than it is possible to say. And the _annoyance_ of the life is the

climate. It is so very HOT, I do not know how to spell it large enough.

Now I have stated our grievances, I must put all the per _contras_ lest

you should think me discontented. First, George is as happy as a King;

then our healths, as I said before, are very good, though we look like

people playing at Snap-dragon--everybody does. And though it is not a

life that admits of one doing much active good, some is always possible

in this position, and then it is a life of great solitude, which is

wholesome.

Then, as a set-off to discomforts peculiar to the climate, we have every

luxury that the wit of man can devise, and are gradually acquiring the

Indian habit of denying ourselves nothing, which will be awkward. I get

up at eight, and with the assistance of Wright and my two black

maids--picturesque creatures as far as white muslin and

scriptural-looking dresses can make ugly women--contrive to have a bath

and to be dressed, and to order dinner by nine, when we meet in the

great hall for breakfast.

When I describe my life, you must take for granted the others are all

much the same, except that His Excellency’s tail is four times longer

than ours at least. Well, I have all my rooms shut up and made dark

before I leave them, and go out into my passage, where I find my two

tailors sitting cross-legged, making my gowns; the two Dacca

embroiderers whom I have taken into my private pay working at a frame of

flowers that look like paintings; Chance, my little dog, under his own

servant’s arm; a _meter_ with his broom to sweep the rooms, two bearers

who pull the punkahs; a sentry to mind that none of these steal

anything; and a Jemadar[436] and four Hurkarus,[437] who are my

particular attendants and follow me about wherever I go--my tail. These

people are all dressed in white muslin, with red and gold turbans and

sashes, and are so picturesque that when I can find no other employment

for them I make them sit for their pictures.

They all make their salaam and we proceed to breakfast which is in an

immense marble hall, and is generally attended by the two Aides-de-Camp

in waiting, the doctor, the private Secretary, and anybody who may be

transacting business at the time.... At six the whole house is opened,

windows, shutters, etc., and carriages, horses, gigs, phaetons, guards,

all come to the door, and we ride or drive just as we like, come home in

time to dress for an eight o’clock dinner, during which the band plays.

We sit out in the verandah and play at chess or _écarté_ for an hour,

and at ten everybody goes to bed.

The week is diversified by a great dinner of fifty people on Monday; on

Tuesday we are _at home_, which was originally meant for a sort of

evening visiting, but it is turned into a regular dance, as the hotter

it is the more they like dancing. Thursday mornings, Fanny and I are

also at home from ten to twelve for introductions, people landing or

coming from up the country, and for any others of society who wish to

see us.

It is very formal and very tiresome. They look very smart, come in

immense numbers, sit down for five minutes, and, if there are forty in

the room at once, never speak to each other. But it is a cheap way of

getting through all the visiting duties of life at one fell swoop. On

Thursday evenings we used to go to Barrackpore to stay till the

following Monday, but now we only go once a fortnight. We are an immense

body to move if it happens to be a pouring day--about four hundred

altogether.

Barrackpore is a really pretty place. I am making such a garden there,

my own private one, for there is a lovely garden there already, but a

quarter of a mile from the house, and nobody can walk half a quarter of

a mile in this country.

It seems so odd to have everything one wants, doesn’t it, Pam? I wanted

a vase for fish in my garden; a civil engineer put up two.

The other day we ordered the carriage at an undue hour, and there were

no guards, and there was such a fuss about it--the Military Secretary

writing to the Captain of the Body Guards, and he blaming the

Aide-de-Camp in waiting; and I thought of the time when the hackney

coach _adjusted_ itself to the Grosvenor Street door, and of William de

Roos’s sending Danford away from the play that the hack might seem an

accident, as if the carriage had not come.

Those were the really jolly days. I wish we could go back to them. You

cannot imagine how I enjoyed your history of your children, those are

the letters to send to India. Other people or papers tell public news.

What a pleasure it is to have a letter!

I am so glad you like Lord Morpeth,[438] I always did love him; I wish

you would tell him to write to me in that odd cramped hand. Poor Mrs.

Beresford, she goes on Wednesday next; I shall be glad when she is

safely off. She takes a box for you, with a gown George gives you which

I thought would be useful for your Castle drawing-rooms, and some

handkerchiefs William sends you, which I have had worked for him by an

old native, with a long white beard, who works like an angel. I mean to

send my godchild a present the next opportunity. Yours,

E. E.

_Miss Eden to Mrs. Lister._

GOVERNMENT HOUSE,

_August 24, 1836_.

MY DEAREST THERESA. After I wrote you that long letter of upbraiding for

never having written to me, your Edinburgh letter, which had reached the

respectable age of ten months, was forwarded to me, it having been

mislaid with a large packet of other letters, and remained four months

in the Custom House! So pleasant when one is almost stamping with

impatience for letters--or rather, would be so, if the climate did not

prevent those active expressions of feeling.

I think I told you how the American edition of _Dacre_[439] had been one

of my first purchases here, and I read it over with considerable

pleasure. I do not know exactly what I mean, but I do not think you and

your book are like each other. I do not mean any disparagement to

either; there may be a very pretty fair mother with a very pretty dark

child, both good in their way, but not like, and I cannot put your voice

to any of the sentences in your book, or say to any part of it, “So like

Theresa!” I am glad of that. I hate those _banale_ likenesses of books

to their author. Why did you not tell me the name of your new book? I

daresay everybody has read it and discussed it in England, and _I_ don’t

know its name. And to think of you writing about it in that vague way to

me, 15,000 miles off!

The English editions of novels are to be had here for about three

guineas apiece. They charge rupees for shillings, and a rupee is about

two shillings and a penny. I have bought quantities of American editions

of English books; but then it is a bore waiting till a work is two years

old before one reads it. The Americans are valuable creatures at this

distance. They send us novels, ice, and apples--three things that, as

you may guess, are not indigenous to the soil. I own, I think the apples

horrid, they taste of hay and the ship, but the poor dear yellow

creatures who have been here twenty years, and who left their homes at

an age when munching an unripe apple was a real pleasure, and who have

never seen one since, fly at this mucky fruit and fancy themselves young

and their livers the natural size, as they eat it. The first freight of

apples the Americans sent covered the whole expense of the ship’s

passage out.

We are all so grieved to-day for poor Mrs. Beresford, whom you may

remember as a Miss Sewell, going out with Mrs. Hope. Colonel Beresford

is the Military Secretary to Sir H. Fane,[440] and came here just a year

ago. She has always declared the climate disagreed with her, and as she

hated this place and its inhabitants, they did not like her, and said

her ailments were all fancy. I never thought so; and she has proved the

climate really disagreed with her, by having a violent fever that has

lasted two months. The doctors said there was nothing for it but a

return to England. Colonel Beresford came out with Sir H. Fane by way of

bettering his fortunes, but as they have been here only a year, they

have not yet got over the expense of coming out, so there was nothing

for it but her going alone. She is one of those people entirely

dependent on her husband’s care. I hardly know such another attentive

_servant_ as he is to her--weighed her medicines, carried her about,

etc.--in short, been what she could not find here for millions--an

excellent English nurse.

On Tuesday she was to have gone on board, and I wrote to offer her

carriage, assistance, etc., and got back a wretched note from him saying

a sudden and rapid change had come on, and she was not expected to live

an hour. However, she has lived on, and the doctors still say that,

though they do not think she can live, the only chance for it will be

going to sea; so she is to be carried on board this afternoon with her

little girl, who is a dear little thing, but wants a cool climate too. I

cannot imagine a more painful time for Colonel Beresford than the next

few months, for as he is obliged to go up the country with the

Commander-in-Chief, and _The Perfect_, her ship, may not speak another

till they get to the Cape, it may be six months before he hears if she

survives the first week of change. If she does, I think she will

recover. I am so sorry for them; and here, where we are a limited set

who know each other at all, one thinks more of these stories.

I never could take to the Calcutta society, even if there were any, but

there is not. Almost everybody who was here when we landed five months

ago are gone either home or up the country. They come to Calcutta

because they are on their way out to make their fortunes, or on their

way home because they have made them, or because their healths require

change of station, and they come here to ask for it.

To-day was our _receiving_ day. We receive visits from eleven to one

every Thursday morning, and out of seventy or eighty people there were

few who were not new introductions. “Have you been here long?” “Only

just landed from the _Marianne Webb_--a tiresome voyage.” “Did you

suffer much at sea?” And so on. “Did you come in the same ship?” “No, we

are just come from Lucknow.” And then there comes all the story about

the hot winds up the country, and whether it is worse or better than

Bengal. So tiresome! I rather like to see the new arrivals, if they do

not put off calling for more than a week, as they arrive with a little

pink colour in their cheeks which lasts nearly ten days, but I heard one

of our visitors to-day, who has been in India twenty years, declare

seriously that he hated that colour; he thought it looked unnatural and

like a disease. I begin to see what he means.

God bless you, dearest Theresa. I want to send this by _The Perfect_,

and am so tired with our visits I cannot write any more. I hope you have

written again and sent yours. I hoped to send you something pretty by

this ship, but (it is not a mere _façon de parler_) in this rainy season

there is not an item of any description to be bought in Calcutta. Nobody

opens even the packages that arrive by mistake, as twenty-four hours

spoils everything, but when the cold weather begins, they say that the

merchants will have plenty of scarfs, silks, etc., from China and up the

country. I want something Indian. We have written to China for any or

everything, in the meantime. Your most affectionate

E. E.

_Miss Eden to ----._

GOVERNMENT HOUSE,

_November 3, 1836_.

Your last letter came to me by a Liverpool ship, so I think it right to

write by the same conveyance, and the more so because our stock of

London ships is low. Only one in the river, and she came only two days

ago, and I suppose it will be six weeks before she will be well stocked

with mosquitoes and cockroaches, and quite comfortable for passengers

again.

It is what is by courtesy called the “cold weather” now, and it is

charming to see some of the old Indians wrapped up in rough white

great-coats, rubbing their withered hands, and trying to look _blue_,

not being aware that their orange skins turn brown when there is the

least check of circulation. You have no idea what sallow figures we all

are, and I mention it now because in another year I suppose the real

Indian blindness will have come over me, and I shall believe we are all

our natural colour.

The new arrivals sometimes stagger us, but we simply say, “How coarse!”

and wait with confidence for the effects that three weeks’ baking will

have, and a delicate tender yellow is the sure result.

With all the fine cold weather they talk of, I have not been able yet to

live five minutes, night or day, without the punkah, and we keep our

blinds all closed as long as there is a ray of sun. I do not mean to

deny that the weather is not improved, but when the chilly creatures who

have passed forty years here say triumphantly, “This must remind you of

an English November,” they really do great injustice to my powers of

recollection. I should like to show them a good Guy Fawkes, with the

boys purple with cold, beating their sides, and the squibs and crackers

going fizzing along on the frosty ground.

This is our gay season. The Tuesday balls at Government House have

become the fashion and are popular with the young ladies, and there is

going to be a fancy ball given by the bachelors of Calcutta, which we

not only condescend to go to our noble selves, but Fanny and I have

organised two quadrilles, dressed them in remarkably unbecoming dresses,

assured them that they are quite the right thing, and have made the

whole scheme delightful by agreeing to their wish to meet at Government

House without their chaperons, and go with us.

My quadrille consists of eight young ladies, and if the care with which

I have selected their partners does not settle at least six of them

happily, I shall think it a great waste of trouble, red velvet, and blue

satin.

_Miss Eden to Mrs. Lister._

CALCUTTA,

_December 29, 1836_.

MY DEAREST THERESA, Doctor Bramley is sending a little delicate offering

in the way of Chinese wood-carving to Lady Morley, so I take that

opportunity of sending you a scarf of Dacca muslin, worked at Dacca, and

which is considered the best specimen of the kind of thing here; but

then we have lost all knowledge of what is really pretty, I believe. I

am almost certain we are very nearly savages--not the least ferocious,

not cannibals, not even mischievous--but simply good-natured,

unsophisticated savages, fond of finery, precious stones and tobacco,

quite uninformed, very indolent, and rather stupid.

I wish the holes in my ears were larger, that is all, for I have lately

seen in my drives some Burmese with large wedges of amber, or a great

bunch of flowers, stuck through the holes of their ears, and I think it

has a handsomer effect than our paltry European ear-rings. Besides this

silver scarf, I see that I must write to you about Mr. Lister’s

appointment[441] which I _lit_ upon accidentally in a heap of English

papers, and which will, I hope, be a great and permanent addition to

your comfort. I cannot say how glad I was to read it; a patent place

sounds comfortable, and as all you wanted in life was a little more

income, you may guess that I am very really happy one of my best friends

should have just what she wanted.

We have no letter of so late a date as the papers, so I must wait for

particulars till another ship vouchsafes to sail in.

How odd it will be if we all end our lives comfortable _rich_ old folks

and near Knightsbridge neighbours. If we live to come home, we shall be

very much better off than we could ever have expected to be, for there

is no doubt that the Governor General’s place is well paid. It may well

be, for it is a hard-working situation and a cruel climate. But still,

it is all very handsomely done on the part of the Company, and it is so

new to us to be in a situation in which it is possible to save money,

that the result of the month’s House Accounts is a constant surprise to

me. Not more surprising than that our House Accounts should be of that

extensive nature that it requires a Baboo, an aide-de-camp, and myself,

to keep them correctly.

I wonder whether you have seen our Knightsbridge house.[442] I hear it

is very pretty and I often think what fun it will be settling there.

I should like to know what you think of Mrs. Bramley supposing you know

her, because I cannot make out why she does not come out to join her

husband. He is a very delightful person, I should say almost without

comparison the pleasantest man here, more accomplished and more willing

to talk, and with very creditable remains of good spirits. She has a

sharp little sister, a Mrs. Cockerell, here, almost pretty and very

ill-natured, at least so they say, but we have not found her so the

little we have seen of her. She and her husband are going tiger-shooting

to the Rajmahal hills, for, impossible as it seems in this

endless-looking plain, there _are_ hills, 150 miles off. “Cock Robin”

and “Jenny Wren,” as the little Cockerell couple are familiarly termed,

make one of these excursions every year, and Fanny and William mean to

join the party, with two or three others. It will be a very good change

of scene for her, and something out of the common course of life.

Travelling in the marching fashion, which is the way they mean to go, is

slow but amusing for a little while. Two sets of tents, one to live in

on Monday, while the other is carried on twelve miles, so as to be ready

on Tuesday. Everybody in India has their own set of servants, who are no

more trouble travelling than living at home. They find their own way

from station to station, cook for themselves, sleep on the ground, and,

in short, are quite unlike the fussy lady’s maid and valet who dispute

every inch of the imperial and expect tea, beer, feather beds, etc., at

every bad inn on the road. But then, to be sure, it takes about fourteen

natives to do the work of one English servant. I suppose William and

Fanny could not march without thirty servants of their own, besides

guards, elephants, etc. All these, they say, make excellent sketching,

which is one of the amusements I look to, when we set off on our great

march next year.

I keep up my drawing, but entirely in the _figure_ line, as there is no

landscape in Bengal, and also the glare is so great that nobody could

draw it if there were; but every servant in the house is a good study,

and I shall very soon be sending home some sketches. I wish your book

would come out. I want a new novel very much. My best love to Mrs. V.

Ever, dearest Theresa, your most affectionate

E. E.

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