POST BRIDGE
A filled-up lake-bed--Stannon--The great central
trackway--Destruction of monuments--Cyclopean
bridge--Blowing-house--Another up the river--Cut Hill--The
Jack-o'-lantern--The maid and the lantern--Gathering
lichens--Dyes--The coral moss--Birds--The cuckoo--The wren--Rooks
and daddy longlegs--The Lych Way--Bellever Tor.
A colony about a school-chapel and a few deformed beech trees in a
basin among tors constitute Post Bridge.
Here the East Dart flows through a filled-up lake-bed, and passes away
by a narrow cleft that it has sawn for itself through the granite.
The beech trees were planted at the same time that two lodges were
erected by a gentleman called Hullett, who was induced to believe that
he could convert a portion of Dartmoor into paradise. He purposed
building a mansion at Stannon, and actually began the house. But by the
time the lodges were set up and a wing of his house, he had discovered
that Dartmoor would spell ruin, and he threw up his attempt. And
Dartmoor will spell ruin unless approached and treated in the only
suitable manner. It will pasture cattle and feed ponies and sheep, but
it will never grow corn and roots.
The great central causeway crossed the modern road near the Dissenting
chapel, and may be traced in the marsh aiming for the river, beyond
which it ascends the hill and strikes along the brow behind Archerton.
It is paved, and is a continuation of the old Fosse Way. It is
certainly not Roman work, but British.
Post Bridge has been termed, not accurately, a prehistoric metropolis
of the moor. This is because round the ancient lake-bed were numerous
pounds containing hut circles. Most of these have now been destroyed,
yet one remains perfect--Broadun; and adjoining it is Broadun Ring,
where the outer circle of the inclosure has been pulled down, but
a considerable number of the huts has been spared. There remain
indications of fifteen of these inclosures. More have certainly been
destroyed.
Lake-head Hill has been almost denuded of the monuments that once
crowded it. They were systematically removed by the farmer at Bellever.
Happily one kistvaen has been left on the summit, and there are two or
three others, small and ruinous, on the sides.
The "cyclopean bridge" over the Dart is composed of rude masses of
granite maintained in position by their own weight. It was the old
pack-horse bridge.
There are other bridges of the same description; one is on the stream
at Bellever, one under Bairdown. But a structure of this sort is the
simplest and most easily reared on Dartmoor, where lime is not found,
and has to be brought at great expense from a distance.
Great numbers of worked flints are found in this neighbourhood, and a
bronze ferrule to a spear was dug up a few years ago in Gawlor Bottom.
A little way, but a few steps below the bridge, on the west side, is
a comparatively modern blowing-house; two mould-stones for tin may be
seen there lying among the nettles. This house is built with mortar
and is of considerable size, whereas the ancient blowing-houses are
very small, and no lime has been employed in their construction. One of
these with a _cache_ may be found in the midst of the tinners' heaps
if the Dart be followed up to where it makes a sudden bend and comes
from the east. Here a tongue of hill stands out above it, and a stream
sweeps down from the north to join it. A very short distance up this
stream is the blowing-house with a beehive _cache_.
If this stream be pursued, and Sittaford Tor be aimed at, then a few
hundred yards to the right of the tor the Grey Wethers will be found,
two very fine circles in contact with one another; but the stones of
one are nearly all down.
If the Ordnance Sheet XCIX., N.W., be taken, and the ridge followed
north-west along the line indicated by bench-marks, Cut Hill will
finally be attained, which is all bog, but which has a gash cut in it
to afford a passage through the moors from Okehampton to Post Bridge.
This expedition will take the visitor into some of the wildest and most
desolate portions of the northern half of Dartmoor.
Many years ago the question was mooted in, I think, the _Times_,
whether there were really such things as Jack-o'-lanterns.
Few instances can be recorded where this _ignis fatuus_ has been seen
on Dartmoor, probably because so few cattle are lost in the bogs there.
I was told by a man accustomed to draw turf, that he has seen the legs
and belly of the horse as though on fire, where it had been splashed by
the peat water.
I walked one night from Plymouth to Tavistock across Roborough Down,
before it was inclosed and built upon, and I then saw a little blue
flame dancing on a pool. I went on my knees and crept close to it, to
make quite sure what it was, and that it was not a glow-worm.
Mr. Coaker, of Sherberton, informs me that he has on several occasions
seen the Jack-o'-lantern. There is a bit of marshy land where rises
Muddy Lake, near the road from Princetown to Ashburton, and he has seen
it there. Sometimes, according to his account, it appears like the
flash of a lantern, and then disappears, and presently flashes again.
It has also been seen by him in the boggy ground of Slade by Huccaby
Bridge. There, on one occasion, he made his way towards it. From a
distance the light seemed to be considerable, but as he approached it
appeared only as a small flame.
The Rev. T. E. Fox, curate, living at Post Bridge, and serving the
little chapel there and that at Huccaby, has also seen it, in Brimpts,
hovering, a greenish-blue flame, about three feet above the soil; and a
woman living near informs me that she also has noticed it in the same
place.[23]
[Illustration: LAKE-HEAD, KISTVAEN]
The reader must excuse me if I tell the tales just as told to me, and
mix up facts with what I consider fictions. I cannot doubt that these
lights have been seen by others as well as by myself, and I am not
surprised if here and there some superstition has attached itself to
these phenomena.
The following story is told in the parish of Broad-woodwidger, where is
a field in which, it is asserted, Will-o'-the-wisp is seen.
The farmer's son was delicate, and in haymaking time assisted in the
work, and I have no doubt, notwithstanding his feeble lungs, in making
sweet hay with the maidens. However, he over-exerted himself, broke a
blood-vessel, and died. Ever since a blue flame has been seen dancing
in this field, and even on the top of the haycocks.
The tale I have heard told, as a child, of a blue flame being seen
leaving the churchyard and travelling down the lanes or roads to a
certain door, and there waiting and returning accompanied by another
flame, which appeared simultaneously with a death occurring in the
house, is doubtless a distortion of a fact that such a flame as the
Jack-o'-lantern _does_ occasionally appear in graveyards.
A miner engaged at the Whiteworks crossed the moor on a Saturday to
Cornwood, to see a brother who was dangerously ill, and started to
return somewhat late on the Sunday afternoon. In consequence, night
overtook him on the moor; he became entangled among the bogs, and was
in sore distress, unable to proceed or to retreat.
Being an eminently God-fearing man, he took off his cap and prayed.
All at once a little light sprang up and moved forward. He knew
that this was a Will-o'-the-wisp, and that it was held to lead into
dangerous places; but his confidence in Providence was so strong, and
so assured was he that the light was sent in answer to his prayer,
that he followed it. He was conducted over ground fairly firm, though
miry, till he reached heather and a sound footing, whereupon the flame
vanished. Thanking God, he pursued his way, taking his direction by the
stars, and reached his destination in safety.
"I tell the tale as 'twas told to me," but I will not vouch for the
truth of it, as I did not hear it from the man himself, nor did I know
him personally, so as to judge whether his word could be trusted.
Here, however, is an instance on which implicit reliance can be placed.
Mr. W. Bennett Dawe, of Hill, near Ashburton, together with his family,
saw one on several nights in succession in the autumn of 1898. The
month of September had been very hot and dry, and this was succeeded
by a heavy rainfall in October during twenty-three days. The mean
temperature of the month was 54·7, being 4° above the average of twenty
years. The warm damp season following on the heated ground and the
boggy deposits in the Dart valley resulted in the generation of a good
deal of decomposition. Mr. Dawe and several of his household observed
at night a light of a phosphorescent nature in the meadows between
Ashburton and Pridhamsleigh. It appeared to hover a little above the
ground and dance to and fro, then race off in another direction, as if
affected by currents of air. This was watched during several evenings,
and the members of his family were wont as darkness fell to go out and
observe it. The meadows are on deep alluvial soil, formerly marsh, and
were drained perhaps sixty years ago.
The same gentleman saw a similar flame in the form of a ball some forty
years previously in the low and then marshy valley between Tor Abbey
gateway and the Paignton road, near where is now the Devon Rosery.
The valley was then undrained. The gas generated, which catches fire
on rising to the surface, is phosphoretted hydrogen, and is certainly
evolved by decay of animal matter in water; if occasionally seen in
churchyards it is probably after continued rain, when the graves have
become sodden.
Jack-o'-lantern is called in Yorkshire Peggy-wi'-t'-wisp; consequently
the treacherous, misleading character is there attributed to a sprite
of that sex which has misled man from the first moment she appeared on
earth--who never rested till she had led him out of the terrestrial
paradise into one of her own making.
I was talking about this one evening in a little tavern, over the fire,
to a Cornishman, when he laughed and volunteered a song. It was one,
he said, that was employed as a test to see whether a man were sober
enough to be able to repeat the numbers correctly that followed at the
close of each stanza.[24]
"As I trudged on at ten at night
My way to fair York city,
I saw before a lantern light
Borne by a damsel pretty.
I her accos't, 'My way I've lost,
Your lantern let me carry!
Then through the land, both hand in hand,
We'll travel. Prithee tarry.'
20, 18, 16, 14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4, 2,
19, 17, 15, 13, 11, 9, 7, 5, 3, 1.
"She tripp'd along, so nimble she,
The lantern still a-swinging,
And 'Follow, follow, follow me!'
Continually was singing.
'Thy footsteps stay!' She answered, 'Nay!'
'Your name? You take my fancy.'
She laughing said, nor turn'd her head,
'I'm only Northern Nancy.'
20, 18, 16, etc.
"She sped along, I in the lurch,
A lost and panting stranger,
Till, lo! I found me at the Church,
She'd led me out of danger.
'Ring up the clerk,' she said; 'yet hark!
Methinks here comes the pass'n;
He'll make us one, then thou art done;
He'll thee securely fasten.'
20, 18, 16, etc.
"'Man is a lost and vagrant clown
That should at once be pounded,'
She said, and laid the matter down
With arguments well grounded.
For years a score, and even more,
I've lain in wedlock's fetter,
Faith! she was right; here, tied up tight,
I could not have fared better.
20, 18, 16, etc."
An industry on Dartmoor that has become completely extinct is the
collection of lichen from the rocks for the use of the dyers. There
exists in MS. an interesting book by a Dr. Tripe, of Ashburton,
recording what he saw and did each day, at the close of last century.
He says that he observed women scraping off the lichen from the rocks
near the Drewsteignton cromlech. This they sold to the dyers, who dried
it, reduced it to powder, and treated it with a solution of tin in
_aqua fortis_ and another ingredient, when a most vivid scarlet dye
was produced. The lichen is called botanically _Lichinoides saxatile_.
Other lichens were employed to give purple and yellow colours. The
cudbear and crab's-eye lichens (_Lecanora tartarea_ and _Lecanora
parella_) gave a dye of a royal purple, and the two species called
_Parmelia saxatilis_ and _Parmelia omphalodes_ gave a yellowish brown.
Moss also was employed for the purpose; the _Hypnum cupressiforme_
yielded a rich reddish brown.
"Lichens and mosses," says Mr. Parfitt, "are the pioneers of the
vegetable kingdom in attacking the hard and almost impenetrable rocks,
and so preparing the way for the more noble plants--the trees and
shrubs--by gradual disintegration, and by adding their own dead bodies
to the soil, enrich it for the food of others."[25]
It is marvellous to see how the lichen attaches itself to the granite.
A harshly glaring piece that the quarrymen have cut is touched with
fine specks that spread into black and crocus-yellow circles, and
tone down the stone to a sober tint. Unhappily of late years there has
been much firing of the furze and heather on the moor, and the flames
destroy the beautiful lichens and mosses, and leave the old stones
white and ghostly, not to be reclothed with the old tints for centuries.
I do not think that we have any idea of the slowness with which the
lichens spread; a century to them is nothing--it passes as a watch in
the night. There is a granite post I often go by. It was set up just
seventy years ago, and on it the largest golden circle of the _Physcia
parietina_ has attained the diameter of an inch. Mr. Parfitt mentions
in connection with it a rocky crag at Baggy Point, North Devon, where
it covers the whole surface with a coat of golden colour. It spreads
more rapidly on slate than it does on granite, and especially on such
slates as are liable to rapid disintegration. The Woodland and the
Coryton slates are readily attacked by it. The growth begins with a
splash about the size of a sixpence, and increases to that of a plate,
when the centre breaks up, and the ring becomes detached in fragments
which meet others, and so appear to cover the rock or roof.
One of the most beautiful of the lichens on the moor is the coral
moss, _Sphærophoron coralloides_. It is a pale greenish-white,
upright-growing lichen, that forms a cup, and somewhat resembles an
old Venetian wineglass. Then points of brilliant scarlet form round
the lip of the cup, and increase in size till the whole presents a
wonderful appearance as of sealing-wax splashed over the soil. It is
not confined to the moorland, but grows also in woods, where there
has been a clearance made. I came upon a wonderful carpet of sprinkled
scarlet and white on one occasion, where there was a woodman's track
through an old oak coppice. But it must be capricious, for of late
years when searching for it in the same spot I have found no more. The
black coral moss is scarce, but it has been found about Lynx and Yes
Tors.
The birds on Dartmoor have a hard time of it, not only because of
the guns levelled at them, but because of the "swaling" or burning
of the moor, which takes place at the time when they are nesting. In
East Anglia there are along the coast the "bird tides," as the people
say. At that period when the plovers and sea-mews are nesting in the
marshes, there are unusually low tides, a provision of God, so it is
held, for the protection of the feathered creatures whilst laying and
hatching out their eggs. So the ancients told of the halcyon days
when the gods had pity on the seabirds, and smoothed seven to eleven
days in the winter solstice, that they might with safety hatch their
young. But on Dartmoor man has none of this pity; he selects the very
time when the poor birds are sitting in their nests on their eggs, or
are cherishing their callow young, for enveloping them in flames. The
buzzard, the hen-harrier, and the sparrow-hawk are now chiefly seen in
the most lonely portions of the moor. Gulls visit it on the approach
of stormy weather; but the ring-ouzel is there throughout the year.
The golden and grey plovers are abundant; the pipe of the curlew may
be heard; black grouse and quail may be shot, as also snipe. By the
water, that living jewel the kingfisher can be observed watching for
his prey, and about every farm the blue tit, called locally the hicky
maul or hicka noddy, is abundant. The sand martin breeds in a few
places. The heron has a place where she builds at Archerton.
The snow bunting and cirl bunting are met with occasionally.
The cuckoo is heard on the moor before he visits the lowlands. "March,
he sits on his perch; April, he tunes his bill; May, he sings all day;
June, he alters his tune, and July, away he do fly." So say the people.
One of the freshest and most delicious of Devonshire folk-melodies is
that connected with a song about the cuckoo.
"The cuckoo is a pretty bird,
She sings as she flies;
She bringeth good tidings,
She telleth no lies.
She sucketh sweet flowers
To keep her voice clear,
And when she sings 'Cuckoo'
The summer draweth near."[26]
There is a saying among the country folk:--
"Kill a robin or a wren,
Never prosper, boy or man."
The wren is said to be the king of all birds. The story told to account
for this is that the birds once assembled to elect a sovereign, and
agreed that that one of the feathered creation who soared highest
should be esteemed king. The eagle mounted, and towered aloft high
above the rest, but was outwitted by the wren, who, unobserved and
unfelt, had hopped on to the eagle's back.
The birds were so distressed and angry at the trick that they resolved
to drown the wren in their tears. Accordingly they procured a pan into
which each bird in turn wept. When it was nearly full the blundering
old owl came up. "With such big eyes," said the birds, "he will weep
great tears." But he perched on the edge of the pan and upset it.
Thenceforth the wren has reigned undisputed king of the birds.
There is a curious story told of a wren. In one of the Irish rebellions
a party of British military were out after the enemy when, having made
a long march, they lay down to sleep and left no one to keep sentinel.
As they lay slumbering the murderous rascals stole up, creeping like
snakes in the grass and among the bushes, and would have butchered the
entire party had it not been for a wren, which, perching on the drum
belonging to the company, tapped it repeatedly with its little beak.
This roused the soldiers, they became aware of their situation, and
were able just in time to fire on their assailants and disperse them.
In Ireland, and in Pembrokeshire and elsewhere in South Wales, it was
usual, on S. Stephen's Day or at the New Year, to put a wren in a
lantern that was decorated with ribbons and carry it about to farms and
cottages, with a song, which was repaid by a small coin. Whether such
a custom existed in Devon I cannot say; I remember nothing of the sort.
The sparrow-hawk is often seen quivering aloft in the air. A curious
story is told of one by Mr. Elliot.
"As is well known, not only sparrow-hawks, but other birds of prey
as well as other species, repair to the same site year after year
for nesting. This knowledge is valuable to the keepers, who look
up these haunts and try to shoot the old birds before they hatch
their eggs. On one occasion he shot the female as she came off the
nest, and this satisfied him, but on visiting the spot later he was
surprised at another female flying off; on climbing to the nest he
found that the male must have found another mate, as they had built
a second nest over and into the old one, which contained four eggs,
whilst the freshly-built nest contained five."[27]
One has supposed hitherto that the gay widower who looked out for
another spouse after having lost the first was a product of the human
species only.
A visitor to Dartmoor in June or July will be surprised to find flights
of rooks over it. As soon as their maternal cares are over, they desert
the rookeries on the lowland and go for change of air and diet to the
moor, where they feed on the whortleberry, possibly, but most certainly
on the daddy longlegs and its first cousin, who is the hateful wireworm
in his fully developed form. A friend one day saw a bit of the moor
dense with rooks, and surprised at their movements and excitement,
observed them closely, and discovered that they were having a glut of
daddy longlegs. The light and friable peat earth exactly suits the
wireworm in its early stages, and when the pest emerged from the soil
full blown, then the rooks were down on him before he could come to our
gardens and turnip fields to devastate them.
The one deficiency in the soil on Dartmoor is lime. That will sweeten
the grass and enable the cattle to thrive. Bullocks and other cattle
will do on the moor, but they really need a change to land on lime
whilst they are growing. The roots of the grass and heather are
ravenous after lime, and for this reason it is that of the many
interments on the moor hardly a particle of bone remains.
From Post Bridge starts the Lych Way, the Road of the Dead, along
which corpses were conveyed to Lydford, the parish church, until, in
1260, Bishop Bronescombe gave licence to the inhabitants of Dartmoor,
who lived nearer to Widdecombe than to Lydford, to resort thither for
baptisms and funerals.
The Lych Way may be traced from Conies Down Tor to Whitabarrow; thence
it strikes for Hill Bridge, and so across the spur of Black Down to
Lydford church.
When I was a boy I heard strange tales of the Lych Way--and of funerals
being seen passing over it of moonlight nights. But superstition is
dead now on Dartmoor, as elsewhere, and ghosts as well as pixies have
been banished, not as the old moormen say, by the "ding-dongs" of the
church and mission chapel bells, but by the voice of the schoolmaster.
A walk or scramble down the Dart will take to the ruins of the Snaily
House, the story concerning which I have told elsewhere.[28] It may be
carried on to Dartmeet, where a little colony of inhabitants will be
found, and a return may be taken over Bellever Tor, a striking height
that holds its own, and seems to be the true centre of the moor. On
its slopes are several kistvaens, but all have been robbed of their
covering-stones. There is an unpleasant morass between Bellever Tor and
the high-road.
I was witness here of a rather amusing scene. A gentleman with his
wife and a young lady friend of hers had driven out, from Princetown
or Tavistock, and when near Bellever the latter expressed a wish to
go to the summit of the tor. The gentleman looked at his better half,
who gave consent with a nod, whereupon he started with the young lady,
and his wife drove on and put up the horse at Post Bridge, then walked
back to meet the two as they returned to the high-road, on which madame
promenaded. Now, as it fell out, the husband missed his way on trying
to reach the high-road, and got to the morass, where he and the young
lady walked up and down, and every now and then he extended his hand
and helped her along from one tuft of grass to another. They went
up--got more involved--then down again, and were fully half an hour in
the morass.
Madame paced up and down the road, glaring at her husband and the young
lady dallying on the moor, as she took it; for she was quite unable to
apprehend the reason why they did not come to her as the crow flies,
and as she considered was her due. Her pace was accelerated, her turns
sharper, her glances more indignant, as minute after minute passed. She
saw them approach, then turn and retrace their steps, gyrate, holding
each other's hands, and walk down the slope some way. Then along the
road, snorting like a war-horse, went the lady. She flourished her
parasol at them; she called, they paid no attention. Finally they
headed the swamp and arrived on the firm road. Thereupon the lady
strode forward speechless with wrath towards Post Bridge and the inn,
where a high tea was ready. Not a word would she vouchsafe to either.
Not a word of explanation would she listen to from her husband.
Curious to see the end, I went on to Webb's Inn, and came in on the
party.
The gentleman sat limp and crestfallen.
An excellent tea was ready. Cold chicken, ham, whortleberry jam and
Devonshire cream. He ate nothing.
"My dear," said madame to her husband, "you are not eating."
"No, precious!" he replied. "I have lost my appetite."
"But," retorted she, "the moor gives one."
"Not to me," he responded feebly. "I don't feel well. The moor has
taken mine away."
Obviously there had been an interview, _tête-à-tête_, before they sat
down.
Presently I saw them drive away.
Madame brandished the whip and held the reins, and the young lady
friend sat in front.
Monsieur was behind, disconsolate and sniffing.
FOOTNOTES:
[23] I have been informed that the Jack-o'-lantern is only to be seen
after a hot summer, at the end of July, and in August and September.
As the moormen say, "When the vaen rises," _i.e._ when there is
fermentation going on in the fen or vaen.
[24] I have had to considerably tone down the original, which was
hardly presentable if given _verbatim_.
[25] "The Lichen Flora of Devonshire," in _Transactions of the
Devonshire Association_, 1883.
[26] Given in _A Garland of Country Song_. Methuen, 1895.
[27] E. A. S. Elliot, "Birds in the South Hams," _Transactions of the
Devonshire Association_, 1899.
[28] _Dartmoor Idylls._ Methuen, 1896.