C. L.

_To the Editors of the National Intelligencer._

Ashville, North Carolina, October, 1848.

Gentlemen: As you have recently been publishing a series of letters

in relation to that portion of the Alleghany range which is situated

in North Carolina, you may, perhaps, find matter of interest in the

subject of this communication. My purpose in making it is not only

to present to the consideration of those learned or curious in

geology facts singular and interesting in themselves, but also, by

means of your widely disseminated paper, to stimulate an inquiry as

to whether similar phenomena have been observed in any other parts

of the Alleghany range.

A number of persons had stated to me that at different periods,

within the recollection of persons now living, a portion of a

certain mountain in Haywood county had been violently agitated and

broken to pieces. The first of these shocks remembered by any person

whom I have seen, occurred just prior to the last war with England,

in the year 1811 or 1812. Since then some half a dozen or more have

been noticed. The latest occurred something more than three years

ago, on a clear summer morning. These shocks have usually occurred,

or at least been more frequently observed, in calm weather. They

have generally been heard distinctly by persons in the town of

Waynesville, some twenty miles off. The sound is described as

resembling the rumbling of distant thunder, but no shaking of the

earth is felt at that distance. In the immediate vicinity of the

mountain, and for four or five miles around, this sound is

accompanied by a slight trembling of the earth, which continues as

long as the sound lasts—that is, for one or two minutes. After each

of these shocks the mountain was found to be freshly rent and broken

in various places.

Having an opportunity afforded me a few days since, I paid a visit

to the locality, and devoted a few hours to a hurried examination.

It is situated in the northeastern section of Haywood county, near

the head of Fine’s creek. The bed of the little creek at the

mountain is probably elevated some twenty-six or seven hundred feet

above the level of the ocean. The valley of the French Broad, at the

Warm Springs, some fifteen miles distant, is twelve hundred feet

lower. They are separated, however, by a mountain ridge of more than

four thousand feet elevation above the sea, and there are high

mountains in all directions around the locality in question. The

immediate object of interest is the western termination of a

mountain ridge nearly half a mile to the east of the house of Mr.

Matthew Rogers. The top of this ridge, at the place where it has

been recently convulsed, is some three or four hundred feet above

the creek, at its western extremity, but it rises rapidly for some

distance as it goes off to the eastward towards the higher mountain

range. The northern side of this ridge I had not time to examine,

but the marks of violence are observable at the top of the ridge,

and extend in a direction nearly due south, down the side of the

mountain four or five hundred yards, to a little branch; thence

across it, over a flat or gentle slope, and up the side of the next

ridge as far as I went, being for three or four hundred yards. The

tract of ground examined by me was perhaps half a mile in length

from north to south. The breadth of the surface subjected to

violence was nowhere more than two hundred yards, and generally

rather less than one hundred. Along this space the ground has been

rent in various places. The fissures or cracks most frequently run

in a northern and southern direction, and towards the tops of the

mountains, but they are often at right angles to these, and in fact

some may be found in all directions. While some of them are so

narrow as to be barely visible, others are three or four feet in

width. The annual falling of the leaves and the washing of the rains

has filled them so that at no place are they more than five or six

feet in depth. Along this tract all the large trees have been thrown

down, and are lying in various directions, some of them six feet in

diameter. One large poplar, which stood directly over one of the

fissures, was cleft open, and one half of the trunk, to the height

of more than twenty feet, is still standing. Though the fissure,

which passed directly under its centre, is not more than an inch in

width, it may be observed for nearly a hundred yards. All the roots

of trees which crossed the lines of fracture are broken. The rocks

are also cloven by these lines. The top of the ridge, which seems

originally to have been an entire mass of granite, is broken in

places. Not only have those masses of rock, which are chiefly under

ground, been cleft open, but fragments lying on the surface have

been shattered. All those persons who have visited it immediately

after a convulsion, concur in saying that every fallen tree and rock

has been moved. The smallest fragments have been thrown from their

beds as though they had been lifted up. In confirmation of this

statement I observed that a large block of granite, of an oblong

form, which, from its size, must have weighed not less than two

thousand tons, had been broken into three pieces of nearly equal

size. This mass was lying loosely on the top of the ground, in a

place nearly level, and there were no signs of its having rolled or

slidden. The fragments were separated only a few inches, rendering

it almost certain that it had been broken by a sudden shock or jar,

which did not continue long enough to throw the pieces far apart.

Some parts of the surface of the earth have sunk down irregularly a

few feet, other portions have been raised. There are a number of

little elevations or hillocks, some of a few feet only in extent,

and others twenty and thirty yards over. The largest rise at the

centre to the height of eight or ten feet, and slope gradually down;

some of these have been surrounded on all sides by a fissure, which

is not yet entirely filled up. In some instances the trees on their

sides, none of them large, are bent considerably from the

perpendicular, showing that they had attained some size before the

change of level took place on the surface where they grow.

The sides of the mountain generally are covered by a good vegetable

mould, not particularly rocky, and sustaining trees of large size.

But along the belt of convulsion the rocks are much more abundant,

and there are only young trees growing, the elasticity of which

enabled them to stand during the shocks.

With reference to the mineral structure of the locality, it may be

remarked that that entire section seems to constitute a hypogene

formation. It consists of granites, gneiss, sometimes porphyritic,

hornblende rock, micaceous schists, clay slate, and various other

metamorphic strata. The nearest aqueous rocks that I know of are the

conglomerate sandstone and sedimentary limestone, in the vicinity of

the Warm Springs, fifteen miles distant in a direct line. If any

volcanic rock has been found in hundreds of miles I am not aware of

it. The mountain itself bears the most indubitable marks of plutonic

origin. It consists mainly of a grayish white granite, in which the

felspar greatly predominates, but it is sometimes rendered dark by

an excess of mica in minute black scales. This latter mineral I saw

also there in small rather irregular crystals. Some portions of the

rock contained, however, its three ingredients, in nearly equal

proportions; the quartz, in color, frequently approaching ash gray.

In several places I observed that the granite was cut vertically by

veins of gray translucent quartz, of from one to six inches in

thickness. There were also lying in places on the ground lumps of

common opaque white quartz, intersected by narrow veins, not

exceeding half an inch in thickness, of specular iron, of the

highest degree of brilliancy and hardness that that mineral is

capable of possessing. It may be remarked that there are, in

different directions within two miles of the locality, two

considerable deposits of magnetic iron ore. The only rock which I

observed there possessing any appearance of stratification seems to

consist of mica, hornblende and a little felspar, in a state of

intimate mixture. Having but a few hours to remain there, I do not

pretend that there are not many other minerals at the locality; but

I have no doubt but that the predominating character of the

formation is such as I have endeavored to describe it, and I have

been thus minute, in order that others may be able to judge more

accurately in relation to the cause of the disturbances.

Before visiting the locality I supposed that the phenomena might be

produced by the giving way of some part of the base of the mountain,

so as to produce a sinking or sliding of the parts; but a moment’s

examination was decisive on this point. It not unfrequently happens

that aqueous rocks rest on beds of clay, gravel, &c., which may be

removed from underneath them by the action of running water or other

causes. Cavities are thus produced, and it sometimes happens that

considerable bodies of secondary limestone and other sedimentary

strata sink down with a violent shock. This, however, is found to be

true only of such strata as are deposited from water. But at the

locality under consideration the rocks are exclusively of igneous

origin, and, I may add, two of the class termed _hypogene_ or

“_netherformed_.” For though felspar and hornblende have been found

in the lower parts of some of the lavas, where the mass had been

subjected to great pressure and cooled slowly, yet quartz and mica

have never been found as constituents of any volcanic rock, not even

in the basaltic dikes and injected traps, where there must have been

a pressure equal to several hundred atmospheres. It is universally

conceded by geologists that those rocks of which these minerals

constitute a principal part, have been produced at great depths in

the earth, where they were subjected to enormous pressure during

their slow cooling and crystallization. Prior, therefore, to the

denudation which has exposed these masses of granite to our view,

they must have been overlaid and pressed down while in a fluid state

by superincumbent strata of great thickness and vast weight. It is

not probable, therefore, that any cavities could exist, nor, even if

it were possible that such could be the case, is it at all likely

that a granite arch which once upheld such an immense weight would

in our day give way under the simple pressure of the atmosphere; or,

even if we were to adopt the improbable supposition that the mass of

granite composing this mountain had been formed at a great depth

below the present surface of the earth, and forced up _bodily_ by

plutonic action, there is as little reason to believe that any

cavities could exist. In fact, they are never found under granites.

On looking at the surface of the ground at this place there is no

appearance to indicate any general sinking of the mass. At the top

of the ridge, where the fractures are observable across it, there is

no variation in the slope of the surface or depression of the broken

parts. Immediately below it, where the mountain has great steepness,

equal at least to an inclination of forty-five degrees, where the

line of fracture is parallel to the direction of the ridge, the

surface is sunk suddenly ten or fifteen feet. This state of things,

however, would inevitably be produced at such an inclination by the

force of gravity alone, causing the parts separated by the shock to

sink somewhat as they descend the mountain side. Lower down, where

the steepness is not so great, the elevations much exceed the

depressions. The same is true of the appearances on the south side

of the branch, where the surface is almost level for several hundred

yards; and I think that any one surveying the whole of the disturbed

ground will be brought to the conclusion that there has been a

general upheaval rather than a depression, and that the

irregularities now observable are due to a force acting from below,

which has, during the shocks, unequally raised different parts of

the surface. One of the earlier geologists, while this science was

in its infancy, would probably have ascribed these phenomena to the

presence underneath the surface of a bed of pyrites, bituminous

shale, or some other substances capable of spontaneous combustion,

which had taken fire from being penetrated by a stream of water or

some other accidental cause. If such a combustion were to take place

at a considerable depth below the surface, and should to a great

extent heat the strata above, they would thereby be expanded and

thickened so as to be forced upward. Such an expansion, though it

would be less in granite than in some other strata, as shown by your

fellow-townsman, Col. Totten, would nevertheless, if the heated mass

were thick and the elevation of temperature considerable, be

sufficient to raise the surface as much as it appears to have been

elevated; such expansion, however, being necessarily from its nature

very gradual, would not account for the various violent shocks nor

for the irregular action at the surface. On the other hand, if the

burning mass were near the surface, so as to cause explosion by

means of gases generated from time to time, it is scarcely

conceivable that such gases, while escaping through fissures of the

rock above, should fail to be observed, inasmuch as a great volume

would be necessary to supply the requisite amount of force, nor is

it at all probable that such a state of things would not be

accompanied by a sensible change of temperature at the surface. The

difficulty in the way of such a supposition is greatly increased

when we consider the form of the long narrow belt acted on, and from

the recurrence of the sudden violent shocks after long intervals of

quiet. Such a hypothesis in fact I do not regard as entitled to more

respect than another one which was suggested to me at the place. As

it has no other merit than that of _originality_, I should not have

thought it worth repeating but for the statement of fact made in

support of it. While I was observing the locality, my attention was

directed to an elderly man who was gliding with a stealthy step

through the forest, carrying on his left shoulder a rifle, and in

his right hand a small hoe, such as the diggers of ginseng use. His

glances, alternating between the distant ridges and the plants about

his feet, showed that while looking for deer he was not unmindful of

the wants of the inhabitants of the Celestial Empire. On my

questioning him in relation to the appearances, he said that he had

observed them often after the different shocks; that the appearances

were changed each time at the surface; that I ought to see it just

after a shock, before the rain and leaves had filled the cracks,

adding that it did “not show at all now.” He expressed a decided

opinion that the convulsions were produced by _silver_ under the

surface. On my remarking that though I knew that that metal, in the

hands of men, was an effective agent in cleaving rocks and

excavating the earth, yet I had not supposed it could exert such an

influence when deeply buried under ground, he stated in support of

his opinion, that one of his neighbors had, on the north side of the

mountain, found a spring hot enough to boil an egg. He also added

that some three years since he had seen on the mountain, two miles

to the north of this one, but in the direction seemingly of the line

of force, a blazing fire for several hours, rising up sometimes as

high as the tops of the trees, and going out suddenly for a moment

at a time at frequent intervals. He declared that at the distance of

a mile from where he was, the brightness was sufficient to enable

him to see small objects. Several other persons in the vicinity I

found subsequently professed to have seen the same light from

different points of view, and described it in a similar manner. As

no one of them seems to have thought enough of the matter to induce

him to attempt to approach the place, though some persons

represented that they had subsequently found a great quantity of

“cinder” at the point, the statement of fact is not perhaps entitled

to more weight than the hypothesis it was intended to support.

It is probable, however, that some difficulty will attend any

explanation that can be offered in relation to the phenomena at this

place. We know that the elevation of the surface of the earth is at

many places undergoing a change, so gradual as not to be observed at

any one time. Some of the northwestern parts of Europe, for example,

are experiencing a slow upheaval equal to five or six feet in a

century, while on the coast of Greenland the _subsidence_, or

depression, is such that even the ignorant inhabitants have learned

that it is not prudent for them to build their huts near the edge of

the water. Similar changes are observed in various other places, but

they obviously bear no analogy to the facts under consideration.

Again, it is well known that earthquakes from time to time agitate

violently portions of the earth’s surface, of greater or less

extent; that while one single shock has permanently raised two or

three feet the coast of Chili for several hundred miles, others have

elevated or depressed comparatively small spaces. It usually

happens, however, that when the shock is so forcible at one point as

to break the solid strata of the globe, the surrounding parts are

violently agitated for a considerable distance. In the present

instance, however, the shock for half a mile at least in length, and

for the breadth of one hundred yards, is such as to cleave a mass of

granite of seemingly indefinite extent, and so quick and sudden as

to displace the smallest fragments on the surface; and yet at the

house of Mr. Rogers, less than half a mile distant, a slight

trembling only is felt, not sufficient to excite alarm, while at the

distance of a few miles, though the sound is heard, no agitation of

the ground is felt. Should we adopt the view of those who maintain

that all the central parts of the earth are in a state of fusion,

and that violent movements of parts of the melted mass give rise to

the shocks which are felt at the surface, the explanation of this

and similar phenomena is still not free from difficulty. Upon the

supposition that the solid crust of the globe has no greater

thickness than that assumed by Humboldt, some twenty-odd miles, it

would scarcely seem that such a crust, composed of rocky strata,

would have the requisite degree of elasticity to propagate a violent

shock to so small a surface, without a greater agitation of the

surrounding parts than is sometimes observed. Volcanic eruptions,

however, take place through every variety of strata; but these

volcanoes are rarely if ever isolated; on the contrary, not only the

volcanoes now active, but such as have been in a state of rest from

the earliest historic era, are distributed along certain great lines

of force, or belts, the limits of which seem to have been pretty

well defined by geologists. But I am not aware of there being any

evidence afforded of volcanic action, either in recent or remote

geological ages, within hundreds of miles of this locality. Even if

such exist beneath the sea, it must be at least two hundred miles

distant. If then we attribute these convulsions to the same causes

which have elsewhere generated earthquakes and volcanoes, is it

probable that this is the only point in the Alleghany range thus

acted on? The fact that nothing else of the kind has been, as far as

I know, published to the world, is by no means conclusive, since the

disturbances here have not only been unnoticed by writers, but are

even unknown to nine-tenths of those persons living within fifty

miles of the spot. Is it then improbable that different points of

the great mountain range are sensibly acted on from year to year? It

is true that this may be the only locality affected. It might be

supposed that there is at this place a mass of rock, separated

wholly or partially from the adjoining strata, reaching to a great

depth, and resting on a fluid basin, the agitation of which

occasionally would give a shock to the mass. Though such be not at

all probable, yet it is conceivable that such a mass might possess

the requisite shape; and if at the top, instead of being a single

piece, it should have a number of irregular fragments resting on it

below the surface, then it might be capable of producing

inequalities observable after each successive convulsion. From the

form, however, of the belt acted on, as well as from other

considerations, such a hypothesis is only possible, not probable. It

would perhaps more readily be conceded that there was in the solid

strata below an oblong opening, or wide fissure, connected with the

fluid basin below, and filled either with melted lava, or more

probably with elastic gas, condensed under vast pressure, so that

the occasional agitations below would be propagated to the surface

at this spot. Or if we suppose that steam, at a high heat, or some

of the other elastic gaseous substances, should escape through

fissures from the depths below, but have their course obstructed

near the surface, so as to accumulate from time to time, until their

force was sufficient to overpower the resistance, then a succession

of periodic explosions might occur. Such a state of things would be

analogous to the manner in which Mr. Lyell accounts for the Geysers,

or Intermittent Hot Springs, in Iceland, except that the intervals

between the explosions in this instance are much greater than in the

other. It is easy to conceive that the shocks of some former

earthquakes may have produced the requisite condition in the strata

at that place.

Or, should we reject all such suppositions, it might be worth while

to inquire whether this and similar phenomena may not be due to

electricity? The opinion seems to have become general with men of

science, that there are great currents of electricity circulating in

the shell of the globe, mainly if not entirely in directions

parallel to the magnetic equator. The observations and experiments

of Mr. Fox have, in the opinion of a geologist so eminent as Mr.

Lyell, established the fact that there are electro-magnetic currents

along metalliferous veins. Taking these things to be true, it may

well be that the electricity in its passage should be collected and

concentrated along certain great veins. During any commotion in the

great ocean of electricity, the currents along such lines, or rather

where they are interrupted, might give rise to sensible shocks. The

exceedingly quick vibratory motion, often observed on such

occasions, seems analogous to some of the observed effects of

electricity. In the present instance the line of force appears to

coincide with the direction of the magnetic needle. It is also

represented that the sound accompanying the convulsions is heard

more distinctly at Waynesville, twenty miles south, than it is

within two or three miles to the east or west of the locality,

seeming to imply that the force may be exerted in a long line,

though it is more intense at a particular point. In adverting,

however, to the manner in which the phenomena observed at this place

might possibly be accounted for, it is not my expectation to be able

to arrive at their cause. One whose attention is mainly directed to

political affairs, and who at most gets but an occasional glimpse of

a book of science, ought neither to assume, nor to be expected to

accomplish this. I have adopted the above mode of making suggestions

as to the causes, solely to enable me to explain the facts observed

in a more intelligible manner than I could do by a mere detail of

the appearances and events as narrated. Perhaps those whose minds

are chiefly occupied with the consideration of such subjects will

find an easy solution of these phenomena. Should this letter be

instrumental in eliciting information in relation to similar

disturbances elsewhere in the Alleghany range, then its publication

may answer some valuable purpose.

Very respectfully, yours,

T. L. CLINGMAN.

Messrs. Gales & Seaton.

P. S. Since writing this letter, I have been apprized of a similar

convulsion which occurred six or seven years ago, at a place some

forty miles distant from this in a southwesterly direction. My

informant says that at his house the ground was agitated for some

minutes during a rumbling sound, and that a few miles off, the earth

was rent and broken for the distance of two miles in length and

nearly a half mile in breadth. Though I have not seen the locality,

I have no doubt of the truth of the statement, nor of the general

resemblance of the phenomena to those I have described above.

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