LETTER XII.

Qualla Town, North Carolina, May, 1848.

_Qualla Town_ is a name applied to a tract of seventy-two thousand

acres of land, in Haywood county, which is occupied by about eight

hundred Cherokee Indians and one hundred Catawbas. Their district is

mountainous from one extremity to the other, and watered by a number

of beautiful streams, which abound in fish; the valleys and slopes

are quite fertile, and the lower mountains are well adapted to

grazing, and at the same time are heavily timbered and supplied with

every variety of game. This portion of a much larger multitude of

aborigines, in consideration of their rank and age, and of valuable

services rendered to the United States, were permitted by the

General Government to remain upon their native soil, while the great

body of the Cherokee nation were driven into exile. They (the

exiles) amounted in all to more than sixteen thousand souls,

_eighteen hundred and fifty_ having died on their way to the

“_promised land_” beyond the Mississippi. And here it may with

propriety be added, that since the removal those in the West have

gradually decreased in numbers, while the remaining portion have

steadily increased by births at the rate of four per cent. per

annum. In addition to the Indians above mentioned, it ought to be

stated that there is a remnant of two hundred still remaining in the

county of Cherokee; of those, however, I know but little, and

therefore purpose to confine my remarks to those of Qualla Town

alone.

The Indians of this district, having formed themselves into a

regular company, with appropriate regulations, they elected an old

friend of theirs, named William H. Thomas, (mentioned in my last

letter,) to become their business chief, so that the connection now

existing between the two parties is that of father and children.

What the result of this arrangement has been will be fully

understood when I come to speak of the advance which the Indians

have made in the march of civilization. As they are organized at the

present time, the Qualla Town people are divided into seven clans,

and to each clan is assigned what is called a town, over each of

which presides a regular chief. The Cherokee nation was originally

divided into seven clans, which were probably descended from certain

noted families, and the old party feeling is still preserved with

jealous care among their descendants in this vicinity. The names of

the clans are: In-e-chees-quah, or Bird Clan; In-egil-lohee, or

Pretty-faced Clan; In-e-wo-tah, or Paint Clan; In-e-wah-he-yah, or

Wolf Clan; In-e-se-ho-nih, or Blue Clan; In-e-co-wih, or Deer Clan;

and In-e-eo-te-ca-wih, the meaning of which is not known. And among

the customs which prevail among these clans is one which prevents

their marrying among themselves, so that they have to select their

wives from a neighboring fraternity. Formerly such marriages were

prohibited by penalty of death.

With regard to the extent of their civilization and their existing

manner of life, the following may be looked upon as a comprehensive

summary: About three-fourths of the entire population can read in

their own language, and, though the majority of them understand

English, a very few can speak the language. They practise, to a

considerable extent, the science of agriculture, and have acquired

such a knowledge of the mechanic arts as answers them for all

ordinary purposes, for they manufacture their own clothing, their

own ploughs, and other farming utensils, their own axes, and even

their own guns. Their women are no longer treated as slaves, but as

equals; the men labor in the fields, and their wives are devoted

entirely to household employments. They keep the same domestic

animals that are kept by their white neighbors, and cultivate all

the common grains of the country. They are probably as temperate as

any other class of people on the face of the earth, honest in their

business intercourse, moral in their thoughts, words, and deeds, and

distinguished for their faithfulness in performing the duties of

religion. They are chiefly Methodists and Baptists, and have

regularly ordained ministers, who preach to them on every Sabbath,

and they have also abandoned many of their mere senseless

superstitions. They have their own courts and try their criminals by

a regular jury. Their judges and lawyers are chosen from among

themselves. They keep in order the public roads leading through

their settlement. By a law of the State they have the right to vote,

but seldom exercise that right, as they do not like the idea of

being identified with any of the political parties. Excepting on

festive days, they dress after the manner of the white man, but far

more picturesquely. They live in small log houses of their own

construction, and have every thing they need or desire in the way of

food. They are, in fact, the happiest community that I have yet met

with in this Southern country, and no candid man can visit them

without being convinced of the wickedness and foolishness of that

policy of the Government which has always acted upon the opinion

that the red man could not be educated into a reasonable being.

By way of giving my readers a correct idea of the present condition

of the Carolina Cherokees I will describe a visit that I paid to one

of their churches on the Sabbath. I was anxious to see how far they

were advanced in the ways of Christian instruction, and, though I

noticed many little eccentricities, I was, upon the whole, very much

pleased with what I saw and heard. I was accompanied by Mr. Thomas,

and we reached the rude but spacious log meeting-house about eleven

o’clock. The first hour was devoted to instructing the children from

a Cherokee Catechism, and the chiefs of the several clans were the

officiating teachers. At twelve o’clock a congregation of some one

hundred and fifty souls was collected, a large proportion of whom

were women, who were as neatly dressed as could be desired, with

tidy calico gowns, and fancy handkerchiefs tied over their heads.

The deportment of all present was as circumspect and solemn as I

have ever witnessed in any New England religious assembly. When a

prayer was offered they all fell upon their knees, and in singing

all but the concluding hymn they retained their seats. Their form of

worship was according to the Methodist custom, but in their singing

there was a wild and plaintive sweetness which was very impressive.

The women and children as well as the men participated in this

portion of the ceremony, and some of the female voices reminded me

of the caroling of birds. They sung four hymns; three prayers were

offered by several individuals, and two sermons or exhortations were

delivered. The prayers were short and pointed, and, as the shortest

might be considered a fair specimen of the others, I will transcribe

it for the edification of my readers:

“Almighty Lord, who art the father of the world, look down from

heaven on this congregation. Bless the Indians, and supply them with

all the food and clothing they may want; bless, also, the white men,

and give them every thing they may need. Aid us all, O Lord, in all

our good works. Take care of us through life, and receive us in

heaven when the world shall be burnt up. We pray thee to take care

of this young white man who has come to this Indian meeting. Protect

him in all his travels, and go with him to his distant home, for we

know by his kind words that he is a friend of the poor, ignorant,

and persecuted Indian. Amen!”

The first preacher who addressed the meeting was a venerable man,

_Big Charley_, and he took for his text the entire first chapter of

John; but, before proceeding with his remarks, he turned to Mr.

Thomas and wished to know if he should preach with the

“_linguister_,” or interpreter, for the benefit of the young

stranger. I told him no; but requested Mr. Thomas to take notes,

and, through his kindness, it is now my privilege to print the

substance of that Cherokee sermon. It was as follows:

“In the beginning of creation, the world was covered with water. God

spake the word and the dry land was made. He next made the day and

the night; also, the sun, moon, and stars. He then made all the

beasts and birds and fishes in the world, and was much pleased. He

wanted some one to take care of all these creatures, and so he made

man, and from his body a woman, to help him and be his companion. He

put them into a beautiful garden, which was filled with all kinds of

good things to eat, but told them that there was one fruit they must

not touch. That fruit was an apple, I believe. The woman was not

grateful to God, and when a wicked serpent told her she might eat of

the beautiful fruit which she was so curious to taste, she did eat

of it, and gave some to the man, and he took some too. God talked

with the man about his wicked conduct, and told him that he and his

children should always have to work very hard for all they had to

eat, so long as they lived in the world; and to the woman, God said,

she must always suffer very much when she had children, and that the

man should be her master. The man and woman were then turned out of

the beautiful garden, and they were the father and mother of all the

Indians in the world, as well as the white men and the black men.

They had a great many children, and the world was very full of

people. The people were very wicked, and God warned a good man that

he intended to destroy the world by covering it all with water, and

that this good man must build a large boat like a house, and get

into it with his family, that they might not perish. The people

laughed at this good man for believing such a story; but he took

into his house two kinds of all the animals in the world, and the

waters came; so the world was destroyed. After many days the good

man sent out a dove to find some land, but it could not find any and

came back. He sent it out again, and it never returned, and soon the

great house rested on the top of a high mountain. Another race of

people then covered the earth; and a great many good men lived upon

the earth. One of the greatest of them it was who received from God

the _ten commandments_, which direct all men how to be good and

happy; but the world was yet very wicked. Long after this, God sent

into the world his only Son, whose name was Jesus Christ. This

wonderful being it was who gave up his own life that all the wicked

of the world might be saved, and the justice of God be satisfied;

and so it is, that all the Indians, as well as the white men, who

live like Jesus Christ, can get to heaven when they die.”

In delivering his sermon the preacher occupied about thirty minutes;

and the above facts were cemented together by a great number of

flowery expressions, which made it quite poetical. His manner was

impressive, but not particularly eloquent. After he had taken his

seat, and a hymn had been sung, a young man stepped into the rude

pulpit, who has distinguished himself by his eloquence. His name is

Tekin-neb, or the Garden of Eden. He spoke from the same text, and

his remarks bore chiefly on the redemption by Christ. At the

conclusion of his address he gave a sketch of his own religious

experience, and concluded by a remarkably affecting appeal to his

hearers. His voice, emphasis, and manner were those of a genuine

orator, and his thoughts were poetical to an uncommon degree. In

dwelling upon the marvellous love of the Saviour, and the great

wickedness of the world, he was affected to tears, and when he

concluded there was hardly a dry eye in the house.

After the benediction had been pronounced, Mr. Thomas delivered a

short address to the meeting on Temperance and a few secular

matters, when the Indians quietly dispersed to their several homes.

I retired to my own temporary home, deeply impressed by what I had

seen and heard, for my pride had been humbled while listening to the

rude savage, whose religious knowledge was evidently superior to my

own.

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