ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE
I am indebted to Mr Harold Spender, the author of a fine description of
the accident in 1899 on the Dent Blanche, for permission to reprint the
greater portion of it, and also to the proprietors of _McClure's
Magazine_ and of _The Strand Magazine_, in which publications it first
appeared. The safe return of one of the party is alluded to in _The
Alpine Journal_ as one of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals
of mountaineering.
"Mr F. W. Hill, whose narrative in _The Alpine Journal_ necessarily
forms the best evidence as to the incidents, says that it was Glynne
Jones who wanted to climb the Dent Blanche by its western _arête_--a
notably difficult undertaking, and one that has probably only twice been
achieved.
"Glynne Jones had discussed the possibilities of the undertaking with
his own guide, Elias Furrer, of Stalden, and they had come to the
conclusion that the conditions were never likely to be more favourable
than in this August of 1899. Glynne Jones, therefore, asked Mr Hill to
accompany them, and to bring along with him his own guide, Jean
Vuignier, of Evolena. Both guides knew their climbers very well; for
Furrer had been with Glynne Jones on and off for five years, and
Vuignier had climbed at Zermatt with Hill the year before. But Mr Hill,
who had promised to take his wife to Zermatt over the Col d'Herens,
refused to go. Glynne Jones accordingly secured a second guide in
Clemens Zurbriggen, of Saas-Fée, a young member of a great climbing
clan. Vuignier, however, was so disappointed at his employer's refusal,
that Mr Hill, finding that his wife made no objection, finally consented
to join the party. Thus, with the addition of Mr Hill and his guide, the
expedition numbered five members. They left Arolla on Sunday morning,
27th August, with a porter carrying blankets. They intended to sleep on
the rocks below the _arête_. Arriving at the Bricolla châlets, a few
shepherds' huts high up the mountain, at four in the afternoon, they
changed their minds, sent the blankets down to Arolla, and slept in the
huts.
"They started at three o'clock in the morning in two parties, the first
consisting of Furrer, Zurbriggen, and Jones, roped in that order, and
the second of Vuignier and Hill. They crossed the glacier and reached
the ridge in good time. 'It was soon very evident,' says Mr Hill in his
narrative, 'that the climbing was going to be difficult, as the rocks
were steep slabs, broken and easy occasionally, but, on the whole, far
too smooth.' Rock-climbers do not particularly care how steep a rock may
be so long as it is broken up into fissures which will give hold to the
feet and hands. In the steepest mountains of the Dolomite region, for
instance, the rocks are thus broken, and therefore mountains can be
climbed easily which, from their bases, look absolutely inaccessible.
"As they progressed up and along the ridge the climbing became more and
more difficult. They had to go slowly and with extreme caution, and
often they were in doubt as to the best way to proceed. Sometimes,
indeed, there seemed no possible route. In these places Furrer, who
seems to have been accepted as the leader of the party, would detach
himself from the rope and go forward to find a passage.
"On entering upon this part of the climb the two parties had joined
ropes, and were now advancing as one, and roped in this order--Furrer,
Zurbriggen, Glynne Jones, Vuignier, and Hill.
"It is evident that between nine o'clock and ten climbing had become
exceedingly arduous. 'In two or three places,' says Mr Hill, 'the only
possible way was over an overhanging rock up which the leader had to be
pushed and the others helped from above and below.' This gives us a
graphic picture of the nature of the climb. Nothing is more fatiguing
than to climb over a rock which is in the least degree overhanging. Mr
Hill tells me that Furrer showed him his finger-tips at
breakfast-time--9 A.M.--and that they were severely cut.
"Yet no one must imagine for an instant that the party was in the least
degree puzzled or vexed. There is nothing so exhilarating as the
conflict with danger, and it generally happens in climbing a mountain
that the party is merriest at the most difficult places. Mr Hill,
indeed, tells us that they were in the 'highest spirits.' 'Climbing
carefully,' he says, 'but in the highest spirits, we made good progress,
for at ten o'clock it was agreed we were within an hour of the summit.'
It was at this point and time that the accident occurred.
"They had been forced below the ridge by the difficulty of the rocks,
and had come to a place where their obvious route lay up a narrow gully,
or sloping chimney. On an ordinary day it is possible that they would
have found no difficulty in going forward, but a few days before there
had been rain, and probably snow, on these high rock summits. At any
rate, the rocks were 'glazed'; covered, that is, with a film of ice,
probably snow melted and re-frozen, just sufficiently thick to adhere,
and sufficiently slippery to make the fingers 'slither' over the rocks.
If the climber cannot clear away the ice with his ice-axe, he must go
round another way, and if the rocks are steep the first course becomes
obviously impossible. That was the condition of affairs at ten o'clock
on the morning of 28th August 1899.
"In a party of five roped together, with 30 feet of rope between each
member, the amount of space covered by the party will obviously be 40
yards; and it frequently happens that those who are roped last cannot
see the leaders. Mr Hill, as we have seen, was roped last, and by the
time he reached the level of the other climbers Furrer had already
turned away from the gully and was attempting to climb to the ridge by
another route. To the left of the gully in front of them was a vertical
rock face stretching for about 30 feet. Beyond this was a smooth-looking
buttress some 10 feet high, by climbing which the party could regain the
ridge. When Hill came up with the rest, Furrer was already attempting to
climb this buttress.
"But the buttress was quite smooth, and Furrer was at a loss to find a
hold. Unable to support himself, he called to Zurbriggen to place an axe
under his feet for him to stand on. In this way he might be able to
reach with his hands to the top of the buttress. There was nothing
unusual in this method of procedure. In climbing difficult rocks, when
the hand-holds are far up, it is frequently the custom to help the
climber by placing an ice-axe under his feet. But in this case Furrer
discovered that he could not climb the buttress with the help of
Zurbriggen alone, and he would probably have done more wisely if he had
abandoned the attempt. But, instead of that, he called Glynne Jones to
help Zurbriggen in holding him up.
"'Apparently,' says Mr Hill, 'he did not feel safe, for he turned his
head and spoke to Glynne Jones, who then went to hold the axe steady.'
"From Mr Hill's own explanations the situation was as follows: The
leading climber, Furrer, was grasping the rock face, standing on an
ice-axe held vertically by Zurbriggen and Glynne Jones. These two were
forced, in order to hold the ice-axe securely, to crouch down with their
faces to the ground, and were, therefore oblivious of what was going on
above them. But the important point is, that their four hands were
occupied in holding the ice-axe, and that as they were standing on a
narrow ledge, with a very sharp slope immediately below, these two men
were in a helpless position. They were unready to stand a shock. Thus,
at the critical moment, out of a party of five climbers, three had
virtually cast everything on a single die!
"Mr Hill, standing level with the rest of the party, could see quite
clearly what was happening. He was about 60 feet distant from them, the
guide Vuignier being roped between them at an equal distance of some 30
feet from each. Furrer could now stand upright on the axe, which was
firmly held by four strong hands, and could reach with his own fingers
to the top of the buttress. It was a perilous moment. It is the rule
with skilled climbers that you should never leave your foot-hold until
you have secured your hand-hold. The natural issue would have been that
Furrer, finding it impossible to secure on the smooth rock a steady grip
with his hands, should have declined to trust himself. But the science
of the study is one thing and the art of the mountain another. There are
moments when a man does not know whether he has secured a steady grip or
an unsteady, and the question can only be answered by making the
attempt. If the party blundered at all, it was in allowing the second
and third men to be so completely occupied with holding the axe that
there was no reserve of power to hold up Furrer in case of a slip. But
it is easy to speak after the event.
"What Hill now saw was this: He saw Furrer reach his hands to the top of
the buttress, take a grip, and attempt to pull himself up. But his feet
never left the ice-axe beneath, for in the process of gripping his hands
slipped. And then, as Hill looked, Furrer's body slowly fell back. It
seemed, he has told himself, to take quite a long time falling. Furrer
fell backwards, right on to the two oblivious men beneath him, causing
them to collapse instantly, knocking them off their standing-place, and
carrying them with him in his fall from the ridge. 'All three,' says Mr
Hill in his narrative, 'fell together.' Instinctively he turned to the
wall to get a better hold of the rock, and therefore did not see the
next incident in the fatal sequence. Vuignier, as we have seen, was
standing 30 feet from the first three, and the weight of three human
bodies swinging at the end of the rope must have come directly on him.
He was, apparently, taken by surprise, and immediately pulled off the
rock. Hill heard that terrible sound--the scuffle and rattle of stones
that meant the dragging of a helpless human being into space--and he
knew, or thought he knew, that his own turn would come in a moment; but
as he clung there to the rock, waiting for the inevitable end, there was
a pause. Nothing happened.
"After a few endless seconds of time he faced round and found himself
alone. Looking down, he saw his four companions sliding down the
precipitous slopes at a terrific rate, without a cry, but with arms
outstretched, helplessly falling into the abyss. Between him and them,
and from his waist, there hung 30 feet of rope swinging slowly to and
fro. The faithful Vuignier had probably fastened the rope securely
round some point of rock to protect his master. The full weight of the
four bodies had probably expended itself on the rock-fastening of the
rope, and thereby saved the life of the fifth climber. Dazed and
astonished to find himself still in the land of the living, Mr Hill
stood for some time watching his comrades fall, until, sickened, he
turned away to face his own situation.
"It was not very promising. He was without food, drink, or warm
clothing. No man alone could climb down by the ridge up which those five
experts had climbed in the morning. And in front lay a difficulty which
had already destroyed his friends when attempting to overcome it by
mutual help. It seemed impossible.
"Perhaps it was fortunate that Hill was not only a mathematician, but a
man of characteristic mathematical temperament--cool, unemotional,
long-headed. Most men in his situation would have gone mad. Some would
have waited right there till starvation overcame them or a rescue party
arrived. But there was little or no chance of a rescue party, and Mr
Hill was certainly not the man to wait for starvation. It was a curious
irony that probably at that very moment there was a party on the summit
of the Dent Blanche. Mr Hill's party had seen two climbers on the south
_arête_ at half-past eight o'clock, and again about an hour later. At
this moment they were probably at the summit. But Mr Hill had no means
of communicating with them, and the hour's climb which lay between him
and them might as well have been the length of Europe. An hour later he
himself heard a faint 'cooey' (the party were probably on the way
down)--a jovial, generous hail from men unconscious of any catastrophe.
"Mr Hill's immediate task was to regain the ridge and reach the summit.
At the moment of the accident he was some 60 feet from the fatal
buttress, and now wisely made no attempt to get near it. Instead, he
moved to circumvent the glazed gully from its other side. After long and
tedious efforts, lasting for a period of time which he cannot now even
approximately estimate, he succeeded in his flanking movement, and
finally, with great labour and peril, climbed back to the ridge by a
slope of frozen snow and ice broken with rocks. It would be difficult to
imagine anything more terrible than this lonely climb over ice-covered
rocks, the painful cutting of steps up an almost precipitous wall, with
a precipice many thousand feet deep at his back, down which the smallest
slip would send him to certain death. But at last he regained the ridge,
and the difficulties of ascent were now mainly overcome. In about
another hour he found himself on the summit--a solitary, mournful
victor. It was there he heard the shout from the other party. But he
could not see them or make them hear, and so he made his way down with
all reasonable speed, hoping to overtake them.
"Hill had climbed the Dent Blanche in the previous year with a guided
party, and therefore, to some extent, knew the route. Without much
difficulty he was able to follow the ridge as far as possible down to
the lowest _gendarme_, a pile of rock with a deep, narrow fissure. Then
a sudden mist hid everything from view, and it was impossible to see the
way off the _gendarme_. He tried several routes downward in the mist,
but at last wisely resolved to wait till it lifted. While he was
searching, a snow-storm and a cold wind came up. 'They drove me,' says
Mr Hill in his plain way, 'to seek shelter in the lee of the rocks.'
There he tied himself with his rope, and, to avoid the danger of falling
off in a moment of sleep, still further secured himself by an ice-axe
wedged firmly in front of him--poor protections to a man absolutely
without food or wraps, clinging to the side of an abyss in the searching
cold and stormy darkness of mist and snow, wedged under the eave of an
overhanging rock, and only able to sit in a cramped posture. But Mr Hill
was no ordinary man. If the Fates were asking for his life he determined
to sell it dearly, sustained in his resolve by the thought of that
waiting wife, unconscious of ill, below in Zermatt.
"It must have been, at this time, past mid-day on Monday, 28th August.
"The storm lasted all that Monday, and Monday night, and Tuesday
morning. All through those dreadful hours of darkness Hill sat in the
cleft of rock, sleeping most of the time, but always half-frozen with
the cold, and whenever he awoke obliged to beat himself to regain his
natural warmth. Happily, he was well protected against the falling snow
by the eave of the overhanging rock, but it covered his knees and boots,
causing him intense cold in the feet.
"At last, at mid-day on Tuesday, the mist cleared and the sun shone
again in a sky of perfect blue. He could now resume his descent. To
climb over snow-covered rocks in a roped party is difficult enough, but
to do it alone is to risk your life many times over. But there was no
alternative.
"At last the rocks ended and the worst of the peril was over. He had
reached the snow _arête_, where not even the heavy fall of snow had
quite obliterated the tracks of those who had gone in front of him.
These helped him to find his way. But the steps had mostly to be recut,
and that must have been very fatiguing after his previous experiences.
The next difficulty was the lower part of the Wandfluh, a bold wall of
rock which leads down first to the Schonbuhl and then to the Zmutt
Glaciers, and which, at its base, ends in a steep precipice that can be
descended only by one gully. Here Mr Hill's memory failed him. He could
not remember which was the right gully. This was, perhaps, the most
terrible trial of all. If he could find that gully his task was almost
accomplished. The rest of the descent to Zermatt is little more than a
walk. But hour after hour passed; he descended gully after gully, only
to find himself blocked below by one precipice after another. In one of
these attempts he dropped his ice-axe, without which he could never hope
to return alive. Unless he could recover it he was a dead man. But, no,
it was not quite lost. There it lay, far below him, on the rocks. Slowly
and painfully he descended the gully to fetch it. At last he reached it.
In this quest he wasted a whole hour!
"At last he discovered a series of chimneys to the extreme right of the
Wandfluh and leading down to the glacier. Letting himself down these
steep chimneys, he found himself at last, on Tuesday evening, on the
high moraines of the Zmutt Glacier. He must have reached the glacier
about six o'clock, but he had only the sun to reckon by. Here the steep
descent ends, and there is but a stony walk of two and a half hours down
the glacier by a path which leads to the Staffel Alp Inn. The sun set
while he was still on the moraine, and he has a vivid recollection of
seeing the red 'Alpengluh' on Monte Rosa. But as the darkness grew it
became more and more difficult to keep to the path.
"Here at last his marvellous strength began to fail him. He had no
snow-glasses, and his eyes were suffering from the prolonged glare of
the snow. A sort of waking trance fell on him. As he stumbled forward,
over the stones of that horrible moraine, he imagined that his
companions were still alive and with him. He kept calling to them to
'come along.' 'It is getting late, you fellows,' he shouted; 'come
along.'
"At last he was brought up by a great rock. In the darkness he had
wandered below the path. The rock entirely barred his way. He had a
vague illusion that it was a châlet, and wandered round it searching for
a door. At last he settled down by it in a semi-conscious condition.
Then he must have fallen asleep, probably about ten o'clock. The sleep
lasted about twelve hours, and was better than meat and drink. To most
men it would have ended in death.
"When he woke up at ten o'clock on Wednesday morning, in broad daylight,
he soon saw that he had been sleeping quite near the path. A few
minutes' scramble brought him back to it, and he soon came to a little
wooden refreshment-house, about an hour below the Staffel Inn, which he
had passed in the darkness. He went up to the woman at the hut and asked
for some beer! He had only fifty centimes in his pocket; one of his dead
companions had held the purse. He volunteered no complaint; but the
woman was sympathetic, and soon found out whence he came. She then gave
him a little milk and some dry bread--all she had. After a short rest he
resumed his way to Zermatt, distant about half an hour, and reached the
village at 11.30. As he was walking down the main street past the church
he met his wife.
"He told her simply what had happened. Then he had lunch. 'I was now
ravenous,' he says, 'and devoured a beefsteak, with the help of a glass
of whisky and soda, and a bottle of champagne.' Within an hour or two he
was entirely recovered."