1840.
INTERVIEW WITH THE PASHA--LIBERATION OF THE JEWS OF DAMASCUS--PUBLIC
REJOICINGS AND THANKSGIVING--DEPARTURE OF SIR MOSES FOR
CONSTANTINOPLE.
We arranged with Monsieur Cremieux to go to-morrow to the Pasha and
present our letter.
_September 8th._--We drove this morning to Mohharem Bey's garden,
where the Pasha is staying. We found him in the garden, with his
Admiral, also Anastasi, the Turkish Consul, and Mr Tibaldi. He desired
us to be seated. Sir Moses then said to him, "We come to offer to your
Highness our thanks," and presented to him the letter, to which we had
added the request to abolish the use of torture. There was a Turkish
translation affixed to the letter. The Pasha gave the letter to one of
his officers, who put it in his pocket; but on Sir Moses expressing a
desire that the Pasha should have it read, he took it himself and
appeared to read several lines, when one of his secretaries came and
read the whole to him. We remained some moments in silence. Mr Tibaldi
then told Sir Moses that the Pasha had been pleased to give him a
granite column from the ancient temple of Serapis in Alexandria. Sir
Moses thanked His Highness in suitable terms.
After waiting some time in silence, the Pasha having twice looked at
his watch, we took our leave without having uttered a single sentence
on the principal subject of our visit. Sir Moses was much out of
spirits. On our return we went to Colonel Hodges, who said that Boghoz
Bey had refused to give up the bullion seized on the previous day, but
added that he should go himself to the Pasha, and if it was not
restored in twenty-four hours, he would strike his flag and go on
board the _Asia_, and would take Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore with
him. Sir Moses hoped the Pasha would not hasten his ruin by his
rashness. Colonel Hodges replied that he was already ruined; he had
been declared a rebel by the Sultan; another Pasha had been appointed
for Egypt and one for Syria; and the Russian fleet with the Russian
troops was already moving. This news the Colonel had received from
Constantinople. Sir Moses begged him, should any vessel be going to
that city, to procure a passage for us; this he promised to do.
Sir Moses was now anxious to leave Egypt, thinking he could do no more
good there.
_September 9th._--Monsieur Cremieux came in the morning to ascertain
Sir Moses' intentions, as he wished to go on the following Monday to
Cairo, and should Sir Moses decide to remain in Egypt, he would go to
Thebes. Sir Moses suggested taking three days' time for consideration.
_September 10th._--We called on Colonel Hodges. The Pasha had not yet
given up the bullion; the Colonel said he should write to him the same
evening at five, and send at eight the next day for an answer, and
should tell him that unless he received satisfaction he should strike
his flag and embark, leaving the English under the protection of the
Dutch Consul. Colonel Hodges had already sent on board several
camel-loads of books, papers, &c. Sir Moses felt confident that the
Colonel would soon follow, whether the Pasha gave up the money or not,
and believed the best thing for us to do would be to go by the next
French packet, which would leave Alexandria on the 16th, pass the
quarantine at Syra, and afterwards proceed to Constantinople, thank
the Sultan for all he had done in the affair of Rhodes, and then,
should the state of Syra permit, go to Damascus, and failing this, to
return _via_ Vienna to England.
_September 11th._--Again visited Colonel Hodges. He still talked of
embarking, but advised us to wait for the French steamers, and if it
should still be our intention to visit Damascus before leaving the
East, he would recommend our making quarantine at Syra, thence to
proceed to Constantinople, and await events. "It would be madness," he
added, "to go now to Damascus. I will hold myself responsible for the
advice I now give."
_Saturday, September 12th._--Attended divine service, afterwards
called on the Spiritual Head of the congregation, who showed us his
large and valuable library. Later in the day Sir Moses and Lady
Montefiore received many visitors: two gentlemen from Salonica
especially interested them in their accounts of communal matters in
that city. They informed us that there were about five thousand Jewish
families, and they possessed thirty-six Synagogues, and fifty-six
colleges for the study of Hebrew and theological literature, and over
one thousand gentlemen were distinguished for their knowledge of
Hebrew. They had suffered greatly by the fire which had broken out (in
the previous year) in their city, and had destroyed over two thousand
houses belonging to the Jews.
Our dinner party on that day included Colonel Hodges, Monsieur Laurin,
Captain and Mrs Lyons, Mr Paton, Mr Stoddart, Mr Drummond Hay, and
Monsieur and Madame Cremieux. Colonel Hodges said he had given the
Pasha time till Monday at twelve o'clock for his reply, failing to
receive which he would strike his flag. Sir Moses informed Monsieur
Cremieux that he felt convinced of the impossibility of obtaining
anything more from the Pasha, owing to the present serious state of
politics. The Consuls, he said, were making every preparation for
leaving Alexandria, and as our proceeding to Damascus at that time was
considered to be not only a most rash and unwarrantable act, but
almost an impossibility, he was of opinion that we should proceed to
Constantinople, and there await a favourable change in politics.
Should Damascus hereafter belong to the Sultan, then to request from
him the same justice for the Jews of that city as he had afforded to
those of Rhodes, but if Damascus continued under the Pasha, then we
should be forced to return to Egypt and thence to Damascus, and should
then, if politics still continued unsettled, return to Europe.
Monsieur Cremieux agreed with Sir Moses, and said he would go to
Constantinople, but first to Cairo. He then proposed to Sir Moses to
build an hospital for the Jews in Cairo, as he (Monsieur Cremieux)
intended building a house there for school purposes, having in hand
one thousand ducats from the Baroness de Rothschild in Paris for that
purpose. Sir Moses, however, did not feel justified in spending large
sums in Egypt. "Were it for the Holy Land," he said, "I should be
delighted to establish both hospital and school."
_September 14th._--It was reported that St Jean d'Acre was being
bombarded by the English fleet; everything looked most threatening. We
met Colonel Hodges, who was hourly expecting to receive orders from
Constantinople to quit Egypt. A Russian and an Austrian ship of war
had arrived. The French steamer due that morning had not arrived; they
said it had been detained at Syra for the mail from Constantinople.
_September 15th._--We were caused much anxiety by the absence of any
account from Damascus, and by hearing that Mohhammad Ali had had a
despatch from Sherif Pasha, stating that he had received His Highness'
orders for the liberation of the Jews, but without further notice of
it. Monsieur Cochelet, we were told, had had a letter from
Rattimenton, violently exclaiming against the Viceroy's order, by
which he had been compromised, adding that he had warmly protested to
Sherif Pasha against his complying with His Highness' order. But soon
after this, writes Sir Moses, "Thanks to Heaven, this day has happily
put an end to our fears for the delay of the execution of the Pasha's
firman. We have received letters that all the Jews were liberated on
the 5th inst, in the most gracious manner, by Sherif Pasha, to the
great joy, not only of the Jews of Damascus, but also of all the
Mussulmans of that city. The unfortunate men were accompanied by bands
of music, and thousands of persons, Jews and Moslems. They first went
to Synagogue to return thanks for their delivery, and then to their
respective dwellings. All the distinguished Mussulman merchants paid
them visits of congratulation, expressing their firm belief in their
innocence. The Christians maintained silence, denoting thereby their
dissatisfaction at the justice of the Pasha. The blood of the four
unhappy men who have died under torture has not been sufficient to
satisfy these people. The suffering of the Jews appears to have been
unbounded, as is their gratitude to God for their deliverance."
The copy of the Pasha's order, which we sent by a courier with our
letters to the prisoners, had not arrived on the 7th when the mail
left. We were all anxious for news from the unfortunate men
themselves, but as we knew that all were at liberty, Sir Moses
considered that no further good could be achieved by remaining in
Egypt. Syria was in a state of revolt, and the post between Beyrout
and Damascus closed. The British Consul, with all the other European
Consuls, excepting the French, had left Beyrout, and were on board the
ships of war. Commodore Napier had given notice that he should bombard
the town on the following day. Monsieur Cochelet, we were told, had
heard accounts of several thousand men having been landed from the
fleet between Beyrout and Sidon; no action had, however, as yet taken
place. Sulieman Pasha had declared he would destroy Beyrout, though he
should be compelled to withdraw his troops.
_September 16th._--Sir Moses writes in his diary: "I sent to Monsieur
Cremieux, but he and Madame Cremieux, with Monsieur Munk and Signor
Morpurgo, had already left for Cairo. Mr Wire, Dr Loewe, and I went to
Mohhammad Bey's palace. He is the son-in-law of Mohhammad Ali. We
entered the garden. As soon as the Pasha saw us he beckoned me to
approach him. He was seated in a kiosk. Boufort, the interpreter, was
translating to him one of Galignani's papers. On our entering the
kiosk, he motioned me to be seated. I took my seat opposite him, Dr
Loewe next to me, and Mr Wire next to the doctor. I informed the Pasha
that we had received letters from Damascus, and that, agreeably to his
orders, the Jews had been honourably liberated by Sherif Pasha on
Saturday, September 5th. The Mussulman population had expressed much
joy on the occasion. They had accompanied the unfortunate men, when
liberated, to the Synagogue, and the Jews had thrown themselves on the
ground before the Holy Ark, blessing the God of Israel for their
deliverance from the hands of their persecutors, and praying for the
happiness of His Highness, whose justice and humanity had restored
them with honour to liberty. I also told the Pasha how they had been
visited and congratulated by all the Mussulmans of Damascus, who
confidently believed in their innocence. Mohhammad Ali replied he was
glad to hear it, and informed me that he had received letters from
Sherif Pasha with the same intelligence, and also that that Jews who
had fled from the city had returned. This we did not know. I expressed
much gratitude to His Highness for his humanity, and entreated him to
protect my brethren in his dominion. I also said that as it was
impossible for me to go to Damascus at present, I intended returning
to Europe, and therefore begged to take leave of His Highness; but
before doing so I hoped he would allow me to speak a few words in
favour of the poor Jews who had suffered by pillage at Safed, and that
he would graciously make them compensation. He replied he would see;
he would do it. I again repeated my thanks, and rose to leave, but he
motioned me to remain. In a few moments he beckoned me to come quite
close to him, which I did. He then said that he frequently gave orders
for ships, guns, and other things to be sent from England, that six
months elapsed before they were ready to be shipped, and that as I was
going there he would like to make some arrangement with me to
guarantee the parties, and said that I should always have the money
before the things were shipped. He repeated several times that he did
not desire that I should ever be in advance, as he would always send
the money beforehand. He did not wish the arrangement to take place
immediately, but as soon as affairs were settled. I told His Highness
that I would consult with my friends in England, and would write to
him as soon as I got back to London; he expressed his satisfaction,
and we retired.
"I have omitted to notice that I gave Mohhammad Ali a copy of Dr
Hirschel's letter to me, respecting the charge brought against the
Jews of using blood in their religious ceremonies. I gave him copies
of the same in Turkish and French; he looked at them, and promised to
read them.
"We then went to the Palace of Saeed Bey. Mr Thurburn was with him.
'Excellency,' I said, 'I have come to take leave of you previous to my
return to Europe,' and repeated to him all the accounts we had from
Damascus. He was very civil to us, and invited us to take wine and
coffee, but, being much pressed for time, we declined. I said I hoped
to see him in London. He replied that as soon as affairs were settled
he should travel, and would certainly pay us a visit. We then took
leave of Count Medem, the Russian Consul. He congratulated me on the
success of our Mission, having attained all that was possible in the
present unfortunate state of affairs. I told him I was most anxious to
visit Damascus, to trace the whole transaction respecting the charges
against the Jews. He said it was quite impossible to go just now, the
country was in revolt; Beyrout was threatened with bombardment, and
all accommodation for travellers stopped.
"We next went to Monsieur de Wagner, the Prussian Consul (who
expressed the same opinion), and to Colonel Hodges and Monsieur
Laurin, expressing to both our sincere thanks for what they had done
in favour of the Jews in Damascus, Safed, and the Holy Land in
general."
_September 17th._--We embarked in one of the Pasha's large boats,
being escorted to the water side by three janissaries, and were safely
on board the _Leonidas_ at 3 P.M.
_September 18th._--We are detained in the harbour for despatches.
Mr Reinlin, the Dutch Vice Consul, came on board with letters. He went
with me into our berth, and informed me that news had been received
last night from Beyrout; the English had entirely destroyed that town,
and had landed two thousand English and four thousand Turks. The
French Consul had taken a house in a garden about a mile out of town,
with the French flag flying on it, nevertheless four cannon balls had
struck the house. Ibrahim Pasha was at Beyrout, and Suleiman Pasha was
in the neighbourhood.
At 10 A.M., the anchor being weighed, we started, and were soon safely
out of the port. "Then," Sir Moses writes in his Diary, "we sang the
'Song of Moses,' and with joy and thanks, left the land of Egypt."
_September 21st._--After eighty hours at sea, with a strong north
wind, we arrived at five in the morning at Syra. The captain and the
surgeon went on shore with letters and despatches; they soon returned.
When a boat with the health officers came alongside, we learned to our
great dismay that we had a man dangerously ill on board. The officers
insisted on seeing him. The poor man was carried on deck with much
difficulty; they asked him many questions, but he was so weak that he
could scarcely answer. The officers then left us, to make their report
to their superior; they did not know whether we should be allowed to
go that night into the Lazaretto. This was a serious matter, as the
_Leonidas_ was to start at twelve for Alexandria. Our ship was soon
surrounded with boats, occupied by Turks, male and female, with their
luggage, who had secured their berths for Alexandria. The captain
would not allow them or their luggage to be received on board till he
had got rid of those he had brought with him. The noise and confusion
that arose in consequence were dreadful. It was nearly nine o'clock
when permission arrived for our leaving the ship for the Lazaretto;
the captain put us in his long boat. It was blowing hard, the sea was
rough, and the night very dark.
Sir Moses was dreadfully uneasy, but there was no choice. We all went
in the same boat, which was long and narrow. It was half-an-hour
before we reached the landing place, and it was not without great
difficulty that we scrambled up the rocks in the dark.
On getting into the Lazaretto we found that the guardian and officers
had left for the night, and there were but two miserably dark rooms
for the whole party. We were told to make the best we could of them
for the night. All our luggage had been left at the water's edge, and
there was not a soul to assist in bringing it to the Lazaretto. After
much time and trouble, our servants got one bedstead and mattress for
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore, and a few mattresses for the rest of
our party.
In our small room, more than nine of us, including a Greek lady, her
servant and one child, had to remain the whole night; the servants and
all other passengers were obliged to manage as they could in the other
room.
After a night passed with little or no sleep, we rose from our weary
couches. Mr Ralli, the son-in-law of Mr Wilkinson, called. He had
procured us an order from the Superintendent of the Lazaretto, giving
us the apartments set aside for noblemen. We were soon admitted to
them. They were very comfortable rooms, beautifully situated,
commanding a fine view of the town and port. They were quite empty,
but our servants soon brought up our bedsteads and camp-stools, and we
hired two or three tables, which was all we required. Being informed
that we might shorten our confinement by five days, if we and our
servants took a bath and changed all our clothes, and had all our
luggage fumigated, we readily consented. By two o'clock, all our boxes
having been opened, and the contents spread over the room and hung up
on lines, dishes with pots of burning sulphur were placed in each
room, and the doors kept closed for half-an-hour. In the meantime we
took a bath and changed every article of dress.
Sir Moses put the whole quarantine into confusion, and compelled a
repetition of the fumigating ceremony, by inadvertently putting his
finger on the wrapper which contained Lady Montefiore's dress. This
caused much vexation to all the "guardiani" and ourselves. However,
the fumigation was performed once more, and by four o'clock the whole
ceremony was ended.
September 28th being the first day of the Jewish New Year, we all met
early in the morning, and read the service appointed for the day. It
was nearly twelve before we breakfasted. The afternoon we spent in
reading subjects connected with Hebrew literature. Sir Moses and Lady
Montefiore spent a most happy day, and said they had only felt the
want of their Synagogue and of the society of their relatives.
The physician paid us a visit on the same day, and said we might, if
we pleased, go out of quarantine on the morrow. He enquired if we were
all well, then desired us to strike our fists under each arm and other
parts of the body. Having seen this ceremony performed, he made his
tour round the Lazaretto. We were much amused at seeing him go through
the same ceremony with more than one hundred persons, who were to
leave the next day.
The following day, being the ninth day of our quarantine, and having
performed the "Spoglio" the morning after our arrival, we could have
received _pratique_ this morning; but as we were most comfortable, Sir
Moses requested to be allowed to remain till Thursday. We received the
greatest kindness from all the officers of the quarantine, who came
frequently to enquire if they could do anything to promote the comfort
of Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore. We all quitted the Lazaretto on the
1st of October, grateful to the Almighty for permitting us to pass the
ten days we spent there so pleasantly. We walked to the town, which
was built round the bay, nearly opposite the Lazaretto. The road was
very rough, and Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore were extremely fatigued
by the walk.
Syra was very gay; the town was thronged with well-dressed people, as
the King and Queen were expected that day from Athens. On the wharf,
which was strewn with laurel, there were some four hundred little boys
and girls dressed in white with blue ribbons, some of them carrying
branches of laurel, and others the Greek flag. It was four o'clock
when the first cannon announced the arrival of the steamboat with the
King and Queen on board. From Terenzio House, where we were
accommodated, we had a good view of them as they landed. The King was
dressed in a Greek uniform, and the Queen in Western costume. To our
great disappointment, the steamer which was to take us to
Constantinople had not arrived, and at Syra we could not even find a
room to pass the night, so that we were compelled to return to the
Lazaretto. Lady Montefiore was most fatigued and poorly, and quite
happy when she could throw herself on the ground with the luxury of a
mattress.
We received an invitation from the Governor of the town to a grand
ball, to be given to the King and Queen. The next morning at five
o'clock we were informed that the _Mentor_ had not yet arrived, but
about two hours later we ascertained that she had come into port in
the night. We lost no time in preparing to embark, and before eight
again took leave of the Lazaretto, very thankful for the accommodation
it had afforded us. At eight we were on board, but it was nearly
twelve before we started. We expected to reach Smyrna towards noon on
the following day, but not to be able to land, as it would be our
Sabbath.
We entered the harbour of Smyrna on the 3rd October. Sir Moses
received immediately a large number of letters and visits from the
heads of the congregation and principal inhabitants, all offering
their services. The Dutch Consul spoke much of the sad state of the
Jews at Smyrna, and requested Sir Moses' intercession on their
behalf.