1839.
GENOA, CARRARA, LEGHORN, AND ROME--DISQUIETING RUMOURS--QUARANTINE
PRECAUTIONS--ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA--TRAVEL IN THE HOLY LAND.
They reached Genoa on January 2nd, 1839, and after a few days' rest,
continued their journey to Carrara.
On the following day, the Dottore A. Passani, an advocate of Carrara,
called, and brought Sir Moses several of his father's letters, some
dated as far back as 1790; they were all in Italian, and beautifully
written. Both Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore were much pleased at the
sight of the handwriting of their father, and would have been glad if
the gentleman had been willing to part with them, but it appears he
desired to preserve them himself as souvenirs of the late Mr
Montefiore.
On their way to Rome they visited Leghorn, a period of eleven years
having elapsed since their last sojourn in that place, and made
special arrangements there for having the graves of their kind
god-parents, Moses and Esther Racah, kept in proper order.
"I was desirous," writes Sir Moses, "once more to offer up prayers in
the Synagogue so near to the house in which I was born; we therefore
drove to Synagogue, where my dear Judith and I humbly thanked the
Almighty for all His great goodness to us. We left Leghorn on the 16th
January; it was a beautiful day, the sun smiling on us, and returned
to Carrara, where we wished to purchase some more souvenirs of Italy,
and also gave orders to Vincenzo Bonami for our coat-of-arms to be
executed in marble for East Cliff Lodge."
On the 18th January we find them at Florence, where they remained
until the 2nd February. It appears that the climate there did not
agree with either Lady Montefiore or Sir Moses. They had to take
medical advice, and Dr Usiglio strongly dissuaded them from going to
Jerusalem, advising them on the contrary to return to England before
the hot season. But they were reluctant to give up their cherished
object, and, trusting in God, who had always protected them, they
started for Rome, where they arrived on the 6th February.
"I am informed," observes Sir Moses, "that there are 3500 Jews here,
two-thirds poor. Four times a year, 200 are obliged to attend a sermon
preached in church for their conversion. Leo XII. had deprived them of
their privilege of keeping shops and warehouses out of the Ghetto. But
the present most excellent Pontiff, Gregory XVI., has permitted them
to have warehouses in the city. He frequently sends them money from
his own purse, and is always willing to give an audience to their
deputies and to attend to their requests.
"Yesterday we were shown some very rich and splendid silk Damask,
embroidered in silver and gold, for hangings for the Synagogue, Holy
Ark, and pulpit. There are many silver bells, crowns, and chains,
enriched with precious stones, for the scrolls of the Holy Law, and in
the Synagogue there are beautiful marbles, mosaics, and columns."
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore did not prolong their stay in Rome. On
the 13th February they quitted the city for Naples, remaining there
till March 22nd, when they again returned to Rome, apartments having
been previously taken for them at 54 Via della Fontanella di Borghese.
It was now nearly four years since I had first the pleasure of meeting
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore in London. I had since that time been
travelling in Egypt, Nubia, Ethiopia, Syria, and the Holy Land, and
had during these travels the gratification to receive some letters
from Sir Moses. It was therefore a very pleasant surprise for me to
meet them in Rome and to visit with them the museums, picture
galleries, and most places of importance. They spoke to me of their
intended pilgrimage to Jerusalem, and invited me to accompany them.
Having had many opportunities when in Eyn Zetoon, Upper Galilee,
during the revolt of the Druses, to become fully acquainted with the
character and peculiarities of the various classes of inhabitants of
the land, I felt a great interest in all measures that could be
devised for the improvement of their condition; and, anticipating good
results from Sir Moses' visit to the Holy Land, I gladly accepted the
invitation.
On the 28th March they received a letter from the Baroness James de
Rothschild, in which she informed them that intelligence had been
received from the Austrian Consul of great military preparations being
made in Alexandria, and that war would not long be delayed between the
Pasha of Egypt and the Sultan. Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore, nothing
daunted by the news, determined not to relinquish their plans.
They were frequently visited by the Abbate Farrari and Monsignor
Bruti, two ecclesiastics of liberal ideas and agreeable manners, who
kept them _au fait_ of all interesting ceremonies and festivals in the
church, presenting them with tickets for the best places on all
important occasions.
Signor Pietro Rittig, of Coblenz, having called their attention to one
of his pictures in the museum of modern painters, entitled "Students
in the Academy of Painting," they bought it, together with several
others, namely, "A Greek Girl," by Isidore; "A Buffalo," by Linden; "A
Mandolino," by Cavalleri; "Two Peasants," by Pelletti, and others.
Signor Salvadore Taglicozzo recommended an eminent scribe, to whom Sir
Moses gave the order to write a Pentateuch scroll for him, also to
procure a richly embroidered mantle for it.
During the Passover festival they attended Synagogue, which was very
crowded and splendidly decorated. They were much struck by the
presence of several gendarmes and soldiers. Two, with fixed bayonets,
were placed opposite the Ark containing the sacred scrolls of law;
each time one of the latter was removed or returned, they presented
arms as a mark of respect. Sir Moses remembered having seen something
similar in the Great Synagogue of Leghorn, yet it had always appeared
strange to him that in a building bearing the appellation, "Temple of
Peace," the representatives of war should be on duty, carrying with
them implements of destruction: the Altar of the Lord being considered
according to an injunction of Holy Writ, as desecrated by the mere
touch of a sword.
_Friday, April 12th._--We left Rome, embarking on the following Sunday
in the _Sesostris_ for Malta, where we arrived on the 17th.
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore, requiring some rest after the voyage,
resolved to remain there a few days. He called on the Governor, Sir
Henry Bouverie, to present to him his letter of introduction from Mr
Spring-Rice, also on Admiral Sir Robert Stopford, and on many friends
whose acquaintance they had made on a former visit to Malta. He had
not long returned to the hotel when an invitation came from the
Governor for Sir Moses, Lady Montefiore, and myself to dine at the
Palace on the following Saturday.
To spend her time usefully and agreeably, Lady Montefiore applied
herself with much diligence to the study of Arabic, and both she and
Sir Moses read daily three Psalms in Hebrew, which they requested me
to translate into English, and explain.
The old agent of the Silk Company called on them, and also Captain
Austen of the _Bellerophon_, with his wife and daughter. The
representatives of the Hebrew community in the Island came to pay
their respects, and report on the affairs of the Synagogue.
_April 20th._--They attended divine service, after which they paid a
few visits, and returned to their hotel, where they remained till
the evening, when they proceeded to the Palace. The Sabbath not being
yet terminated, Lady Montefiore went in a sedan-chair, while Sir
Moses and I walked. The Governor was in full uniform, wearing all
his orders. About twenty-four sat down to table, amongst whom were
the Duke of Devonshire (just out of quarantine, on his return from
Constantinople), Admiral Sir Robert Stopford and his family, Captain
Hyde Parker, Sir Hector Gray, Secretary of Government, Lady Stopford's
sister with her daughter, the Duke's physician, and many military
officers. Admiral Stopford took Lady Montefiore down to dinner, and
promised to do all in his power to obtain a steamboat to take them to
Jaffa. Both Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore were much pleased with their
reception at the Palace.
_Monday 22nd._--Sir Moses and I dined with Sir Hector Grey; it was a
gentleman's party. The Governor, the Admiral and his son, the Duke of
Devonshire, Sir John Lewis, Mr Frere (uncle of the late Sir Bartle
Frere), Mr Bourchier (who was private secretary to Sir Frederick C.
Ponsonby, Governor of the Island in 1824), Captain Best, Captain
Goulbourne, and two other gentlemen were present.
On Wednesday we all dined with the Admiral, and met there Sir John and
Lady Mackenzie, Captain Cosnier, Captain Fisher, and several other
naval officers of distinction. Lady Stopford held a reception
afterwards, which was well attended.
_Sunday, April 28th._--The French Consul sent us the _Journal de
Smyrne_, in which it was stated that accounts had been received that
the plague had broken out in Jerusalem, and that the mortality in that
city had already reached from forty to fifty per day. In another
number of the same paper information was given to the effect that
letters had been received from Cairo that hostilities had commenced in
Syria.
Though very little credit was attached to these articles they gave us
all some uneasiness, and in consequence of a renewed report of the
plague, Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore went to the quarantine harbour,
where they saw the captain of the _Blazer_, lately arrived from
Beyrout. He informed them that Mr and Mrs Freemantle were in Fort
Manuel, after returning from the Holy Land. Sir Moses and Lady
Montefiore then called on Mr and Mrs Freemantle, who informed them
that while they were in Jerusalem the plague was raging there, and
they had to perform eighteen days quarantine before entering Beyrout,
but they believed the city to be now healthy, although Sir Moses would
probably find Jerusalem shut up, as the warm weather would bring back
the plague. They gave a most distressing account of the Jews under the
present government. All were more or less ill-treated, many being
actually in slavery. Mr Freemantle said that the Jews were looking
most anxiously for the arrival of Sir Moses.
_Friday, May 3rd._--Sir Moses took leave of the Admiral, and then went
to the Palace, and there met H.R.H. Prince George of Cambridge, who
received him most kindly, and they had a friendly conversation.
Soon after twelve, having taken leave of his remaining friends, Sir
Moses went with Lady Montefiore to the quarantine harbour, thence in a
boat to the _Megara_, a steam vessel. Captain Goldsmith, the
commander, received them on board, and at two o'clock we left the
harbour for Alexandria.
_Wednesday, May 8th._--This morning, soon after six, land was
discovered, the masts of the ships in the harbour being the first
objects caught sight of. A pilot came on board about eight. As we
entered the port the French steamer for Marseilles left, so that we
just missed the opportunity of sending letters by her. We were much
amused at the great precautions taken by the people who came alongside
in the boat belonging to the Board of Health. They received our Bill
of Health, which we had brought from Malta, with a pair of tongs,
every one alarmed lest he should touch it; it was opened with the aid
of the tongs and a thin iron rod; but as soon as they saw that it was
a clean bill, certifying that at the date of our leaving Malta was
free from plague and every other contagious distemper, the officers
came on board with Colonel Campbell's janissary.
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore now landed, proceeding to an hotel,
where they remained overnight; and the next morning we all rode off to
the Custom House, opposite to which we found the _Megara's_ boat,
which Captain Goldsmith had politely sent to take us on board.
Sir Moses took particular note of the Pasha's troops. There were on
the quay about a thousand soldiers; they all appeared to him to be
quite little boys, scarce able to carry a musket; he did not believe
any were above fourteen years old, while some seemed not more than
nine. "If the troops are all like these," he said, "Heaven help
Mohhammad Ali!"
_Saturday, May 11th._--At an early hour the anchor was cast in the Bay
of Beyrout, but we remained on board ship till the evening, when the
commander conducted us on shore in his boat. As the boat left the ship
all the company on board, comprising officers and men, saluted Sir
Moses and Lady Montefiore with many huzzas.
We repaired to the house selected for us by Mr Niven Moore, the
British Consul, and in the morning Sir Moses paid his respects to the
Governor, Mohamed Bey, who received him most politely. He asked him
for letters of introduction to the governors of several towns which it
was probable we should visit, also his assistance to procure horses
for us, all of which he promised. We then went to the English Consul,
who sent in the course of the day his janissary to attend Sir Moses
while we continued in Beyrout.
Several representatives of the Hebrew community called to welcome
them, and many letters from Jerusalem, Hebron, Safed, and Tiberias
were handed to them by special messenger. They have all been anxiously
looking forward to their arrival in the Holy Land, "but our visit,"
Sir Moses observed, "is not the most timely for our comfort, pleasure,
or safety; the political state of the country is most unsatisfactory
and uncertain; a single day may bring about a complete change in the
government of Syria and Palestine. The forces of the Sultan have
certainly crossed the frontier, and Ibrahim Pasha will positively
resist any further advance. Mohhammad Ali has sent his son every man
he had at his disposal."
_Monday, 13th._--Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore rode on horseback to
the Synagogue, which was very full in honour of their visit. We were
told that there were sixty Jewish families in Beyrout, none of them
rich. During the day they received visits from the Rev. Mr and Mrs
Thompson of the American Mission, and also from many ladies and
gentlemen of the Jewish community. Mr Ed. Kilbee, of the firm of
Kilbee, Haugh & Co., Bankers, came to inform Sir Moses that he could
find no one to take charge of the money for Jerusalem. Sir Moses
immediately wrote to the Governor to request that he would provide him
with messengers to carry the money to Safed, Tiberias, and Jerusalem.
The Governor wrote a very civil answer, but regretted he could not
comply with this request. He then addressed himself to the British
Consul, but no answer reached him that day.
The next morning the Consul's dragoman came with a message that he had
been with the Governor, who was extremely sorry not to be able to
provide us with an escort, but the roads were not so unsafe as
reported, and he hoped a large party, well armed like ours, would
travel with safety. Sir Moses was much troubled in making the
arrangements, to divide the money into smaller parcels, putting these
into bags and baskets, altogether eleven. This we were obliged to do
ourselves. Mr Kilbee passed some time with us, giving us much
encouragement, though he was unable to find any person who would risk
taking the money, either to Safed, Tiberias, Jerusalem, or Hebron, in
spite of the most tempting offers. Sir Moses imploring the protection
of the Almighty, we set forward on our pilgrimage at 4 P.M.
The way was over sand and through stony lanes, which opened on a sandy
plain; we rested at Beer Hassan, till our luggage came up. There were
fourteen mules and three horses, besides several donkeys for the
moukeries. Having taken some coffee we proceeded on our way. The
scenery was beautiful, especially the mountains of Lebanon, many of
the highest being covered with snow. At eight we reached Khan Khaldah,
the "Mutatio Heldua," according to Pococke, in the Jerusalem
Itinerary.
"Thanks to Heaven," says Sir Moses, "we rested well in our tent, and
set forward on our journey the next day, May 15th, at five. We rode on
till one, then reposed till three o'clock under a mulberry tree; they
were cutting off the young boughs and gathering the leaves. The road
ran on the sands and rocks close to the sea. At three we sent off our
tents and baggage to Nahr el Kasmiyah, said to be three hours'
distance, and we followed. Before reaching Sidon, we were met by many
Jews, the representatives of congregations; they said they had been
waiting three hours for us. They accompanied us to the tomb of
Zebulon, where we recited prayers. We then took leave of our brethren
and continued riding till seven o'clock, when I was so fatigued I
could go no further. A mat was spread in a garden near the water, and
I gladly threw myself upon it. We sent a man to order our tents to be
brought back. In about an hour great screams were heard; we sent to
see what was the matter, when it was ascertained that the cries
proceeded from our messenger who had gone for the tent. He said he had
been attacked, severely beaten, and his donkey almost killed. This
intelligence alarmed Dr Loewe very much for the safety of our lives,
to say nothing of our luggage. He remained walking round our mats
during the night, with his loaded pistols, Judith and I having ours
under our heads. About midnight we with difficulty persuaded two men
to ride after our luggage to see what had become of it; they returned
at three in the morning with the news of its being all safe. Our road
after passing Sidon was like going through a beautiful garden. At a
short distance on our right we had a view of the sea, on our left
mountains; they were pretty well cultivated--wheat, barley, figs and
mulberries; but few can imagine the anxiety we suffered during the
night, when we were exposed to the winds of heaven."
_Thursday, May 16th._--We started at 6 A.M., and rode till nine, after
which we reposed for some time. We met three persons sent from Safed
with letters from the Spiritual Head of the community to welcome us;
he was at Tiberias, and prevented by indisposition from coming to meet
us. We rested in a beautiful valley, noticing much cattle, small cows,
calves, and a number of goats. We then crossed the Nahr el Kasmiyah, a
river which divides the lot of Asher from that of Dan.
There was a heavy dew in the night. Sir Moses was much fatigued, and
still felt the bad effects of having slept exposed to the night air on
the previous day. The next morning was cloudy; we started at five
o'clock, riding over mountains and through fertile valleys till ten.
While resting, we received a letter by a private messenger from the
three representatives of the Hebrew Congregation at Safed, where each
had prepared his own house for our use, and was waiting to receive us.
About two hours later we caught the first glimpse of Safed. The town
looked very beautiful, being situate on the summit of the mountain,
which was crowned with beautiful olive trees of immense growth and
great age.