BOMBAY.

The trip from Jeypore to Bombay was the most tedious of any made in

India, as we made no stops. It took us from 10:30 p. m. Monday till 8:30

p. m. on Wednesday. The road was monotonous and dusty; however, the

nights were cool and comfortable. Our compartment, although commodious,

was covered with, it seemed, the dust of ages, but on pointing it out to

our stupid servant he immediately took off his turban of white cheese

cloth and mopped with it the seats and floor, shook off the dust,

literally, and replaced it in form of a turban, slightly changed in

coloring. The chiaroscuro was striking. The meals obtained at the

stations were most unattractive.

Bombay is built upon an island, although the separation from the

mainland is scarcely perceptible. The waters of the bay are studded with

islands, and the harbor is capacious enough for the commerce of the

world. The beautiful road skirting the bay leads to Malabar Hill, upon

which are the homes of the foreign officials, and upon this boulevard is

the exquisite statue in white marble, most delicately carved, of Queen

Victoria in her palmy day appearance, when youth and hope make the

countenance brighter. This statue was rudely defaced during the recent

plague (1899) by unknown hands. On the summit of Malabar Hill are the

Towers of Silence, surrounded by a grove of palm trees, with well laid

out grounds. On either side of the entrance to these towers are chapels

on whose altar burns the unquenchable fire and in whose purification the

following of Zoroaster believe.

There are eighty steps to ascend to reach these towers, the place where

the Parsee dead are deposited. Four carriers support the bier, followed

closely by two long-bearded men (who alone enter the tower, handling the

corpse with tongs and gloved hands). Fifty or a hundred men follow, two

by two (clothed in white, with the funnel-shaped hat worn by the

Parsees). One peculiarity of this solemn procession was the tying of the

right and left hand of each couple, which had some religious

signification. A short burial service is held in the chapel and then the

body deposited at the foot of a ladder that clings to and reaches the

door of the tower. This aperture is about five feet from the top of the

tower, wherein lies a gridiron circular in form, ready for the dead.

The tower is cylindrical in shape, built of strong masonry, at a cost of

from $100,000 to $150,000. There are four of these in the enclosure; the

largest is twenty-five feet high, and from eighty to one hundred feet in

diameter. A deep well is underneath the tower, and as the flesh is

consumed by the vultures, which are perched close beside each other on

top of this circular wall, the bones fall into a deep well

(subterranean), where by some chemical process they soon dissolve and

pass off through a conduit to the sea. The voracious vulture is so

gluttonous over the amount of food brought for their consumption that

they frequently become so gorged that they are unable to fly back to

their perch from the grating. There is nothing visible that is

revolting, and no odors are emitted. The winding-sheet used on and

dispensed with on depositing the body in the tower is burnt; in this way

there are no remains of impurity. The Parsees worship one supreme God,

and revere the sun and fire only as manifestations of the Deity, and

never fail to show their adoration when the sun is declining below the

horizon, by stretching forth their hands and bowing to its expiring

rays, thus acknowledging the teachings of Zoroaster, their leader.

Bombay has a mixed population. Besides the native Indians are Persians,

Arabians, Abyssinians, Syrians, Turks, Greeks and people from the Island

of Madagascar, and--last and much in evidence--the English. The

Parsees, the most respected sect, vie with the educated Hindoo in

establishing charity schools and hospitals, and both are alike

represented in the legislative councils. The more opulent of the Parsees

educate their sons at Cambridge and Oxford, and generally are great

travelers. They dress in European costume, but never at home lay aside

their Parsee hat, so characteristic of the sect. We were told it is

never discarded by day or night. Caste does not separate them and animal

food is not forbidden.

We are invited to the home of Mr. Tata, a Parsee gentleman. His family

ranks high in wealth and position in Bombay. My brother had, on one

occasion, traveled with him up the Nile. His father and mother adhere to

the Parsee dress, but their sons, having been educated in Cambridge and

Oxford, have adopted the European dress, but still wear the hat of their

sect. Their home occupied an entire square, and a small park separated

it from the boulevard. We were invited to a four-o'clock tea. As we

drove into the grounds and to a porte cochere we passed, in a victoria,

Mr. Tata's brother with his wife. She was dressed in the graceful,

elegant robes that the Parsee lady wears with such apparent ease. The

doors were thrown open on our approach, by two turbaned and handsomely

clad servants. Their white turbans were striped with gold thread; their

dignified, quiet demeanor was refreshing. At the head of some twenty

marble steps, full thirty feet in length, we were met by more servants

in oriental dress, and were shown into the reception room. Mr. Tata was

there to receive us, and after a few commonplace remarks I could

restrain myself no longer and began to expatiate on the surroundings. He

then told us that the house was thrown open once a week for a length of

time after it was first built, that their friends might come and bring

guests to see their collection of bric-a-brac and the rare pictures. At

the head of these marble steps we reached a hall, the walls of which

were lined with valuable oil paintings. The house was built on the line

of the street--a solid front--but the interior rooms faced a court yard,

filled with the most exquisite foliage plant and palms like forest

trees. A glass roof, that could be slid aside, kept these from the

elements. With a modest air of ease Mr. Tata took us from room to room.

The portieres separating these apartments had been made to order in

Japan--embroideries on satin of pale grey, lined with different shades

of pink, blue, nile green, and some with white silk. On both sides of

these portieres were hung what we would call the sheerest linen cambric.

Tying back each pair, when desired, were ribbons or tassels of

corresponding colors. All the wood used in this house was imported, rare

in quality. The collection of carved ivories was surpassingly

beautiful, as were also articles of jade. We, who had priced them in

China, Japan and India, knew their value. The dining room was oblong,

and at an oblong table in the middle of the floor could be seated five

hundred guests. The table had a hollow center. By lifting up a hinged

leaf persons could be seated on either side. We were shown the butler's

pantry, large enough for an army of servants. Its floors were inlaid as

Mosaic with pieces of broken china and cut glass. Mr. Tata said it was

his father's idea and he urged him to get out a patent. The wine

department made one thirsty, and the coolers are most unique, built in

the wall, each bottle lying on its side in marble chiseled grooves, the

process of cooling being hid from sight. We ascended a stairway of

marble, whose broad steps afforded a landing place for our feet, and we

could but linger to admire the works of art hung upon the walls. A

beautiful stained glass window, with full effect of the setting sun,

fronted the south and west at the head of these steps of mammoth

dimensions. We were taken into Mr. Tata's own private parlor and from

his bed-room, or an anteroom, sprang at our approach more turbaned and

splendidly arrayed servants, who immediately after seating us offered on

gold salvers delicately shaped tea cups, filled with the inviting Indian

tea, and delicious rolled sandwiches hid in doilies of jeweled satin.

Well, we drank the tea, but visions of the castle that Aladdin had built

in one night by the fairies was before my eyes, and fairly blinded me.

We were disappointed in not meeting his mother and father, both of whom

he said were at the bedside of his aunt, who was very ill. In bidding

adieu to our admirable host, we were told a carriage was ready to join

ours that would convey his best friend with us to a Parsee wedding. We

wondered why Mr. Tata himself did not accompany us, but found no Parsee

would be bidden or allowed to enter the place set apart for the guest at

a wedding feast, without a wedding garment, and when we saw that of the

gentleman who went with us, we thought Mr. Tata did not care to make

such an appearance before his American friends.

The dress of the men was of white cotton cloth, made into short, stiff

and exceedingly full skirts reaching to the knee, an embroidered jacket

and a tall Parsee hat, bare legs and sandals. The ladies wear one

outside garment of silk crepe about five yards long of delicate pink,

blue and other dainty tints and on either edge of this garment is a

narrow velvet ribbon an inch wide, of a contrasting color--dark blue,

light blue, pink or maroon in shade. This strip of velvet is embroidered

in gold and silver thread and inlaid with turquoise, emeralds, pearls,

etc. This article of drapery is first thrown over the head to cover one

ear, on the other of which, by the way, is hung the most gorgeous

solitaire diamond, emerald or ruby. This scarf is then draped most

artistically about the shoulders and waist and droops in graceful folds

over a silk or satin petticoat. They are very expensive; even those

wrought with imitation gems cost more than we felt like expending.

There seems to be a building, or rather two of them, set apart for the

wedding ceremonies which, we were told, were only consummated at certain

seasons of the year (December and January). The grounds around were

beautifully laid out with arches of electric lights spanning the

fountains, with their sparkling waters, made more scintillating by the

flickering lights above them. The bride's house was on one side of the

entrance, the groom's on the other. Her friends were with her; the

groom's friends with him. He sat at the door, with a magnificent India

shawl folded and thrown over his arm, the gift of his best man, and wore

the costume described above. The bride wore a blue crepe of very light

shade. At a given signal she, with a female friend, was followed by all

of those men, women and children in procession from the door of her

apartment to that of the groom's. He received her at the threshold and

conducted her to one of four seats--two for themselves and two for their

attendants. These chairs were placed on a rug. Priests, two in number,

stood on either side of them. A table with a large silver salver,

filled with well scraped cocoanut in their shells, together with two

large bowls of rice were brought and placed before them, the former

designating plenty, the latter denoting increase or conveying the

command, "multiply and replenish." These the priests hold in their hands

after first causing the bride to take a seat opposite her husband elect

and, throwing a cord around their waists, tie them closely together, and

begin alternately to speak in an emphatic manner, showering,

continually, the rice on their devoted heads; when the quantity was

exhausted the bowls were replenished. Afterwards cocoanuts were given to

each to hold, and for two hours this went on. The crowd, in the

meantime, stood while a rug was spread and chairs were given to us, the

honored guests. The children were most elaborately attired in pink and

blue satin, short and full skirt, with bracelets and bangles in

profusion; they were very attractive. One of these dear little girls

never let go my hand, but had led me in the procession to the groom's

house, and sat with me during the ceremony. Love begets love and I felt

like keeping her close to me. Beautiful little satin slippers matched

their dresses. After the ceremony was over, the cord was loosened and

the bride sat at her husband's left and received congratulations. We

then returned to the bride's house, across the court-yard and had a rich

feast of fruits, dainties and wines; a few drops of the latter turned

my head, but had to be drank for the sake of politeness. The ceremony

was only half over when we left, all exhausted, for immediately after

refreshments another two hours of this harangue by the priests had to be

endured. What bliss was this?

On the following day the visit to the Elphanta caves by sailing vessel

was most tedious, as the wind was against us, but on our return it was

in our favor, "and we flew like a bird from the mountain" homeward. The

landing at these caves was difficult. Stepping stones of huge dimensions

stretch out into the water like a pier; an ascent of one hundred and

fifty steps from the sea level brings us to the home of the carekeeper,

who at once, for an admittance fee, proceeds to the temple close by and

explains clearly all things necessary for our enlightenment. The temple

is of solid rock; the builders began half way up the mountain of stone

and cut down perpendicularly, thus removing the mountain face to a depth

of thirty feet by one hundred and fifty feet in width. This Besaltic

rock is chiseled into the interior of the mountain, where perfect

chambers, with colossal gods, wrought by hand out of the stone, stand in

representation of the Trinity gods. Brahma represents the creative

power; Vishnu the preserving power, and Siva the destroying power. The

guardian of this temple, an old Englishman and his wife, who keep things

scrupulously clean, and in their own habitation offer us refreshments

for a small compensation. Our ship the "Caledonia," Capt. Andrews in

command, sails to-morrow. All is bustle and confusion at the Oriental

Hotel. We have enjoyed Bombay, with its beautiful carved woods; its

ivories, and lovely sandal wood boxes; its teak furniture; its markets,

where everything from a shoe string to a monkey or parrot can be bought;

its bazaars, where one must have a level head to survive the noise of

bartering, to say nothing or but little of the jugglers who swarm

beneath the veranda of the hotel, performing most marvelous feats with

their cobras and swords for the few piasters that are thrown from an

admiring and amazed crowd of travelers. We must not fail to speak of

pleasant acquaintances made; of Sir Richard and Lady Campbell, who will

be our companions en voyage when we leave this port of Bombay until we

shall say good bye to them, and Mr. and Miss ----, of England, of whom

I have before written. We ship all trunks, save our steamer, to Albert

Docks, London, where we hope to reclaim them before re-embarking for

home. The parting of retired army officers, their wives and daughters,

from the sons and brothers who are left behind to achieve fame perhaps,

or lose their lives in the farther service to their country, seemed less

affecting than I imagined such scenes would be, but we find patriotism

very pronounced among the British subjects. They expressed hope of a

speedy return for one or many more wild boar or tiger hunts amid the

jungles, where they may add to their already large stock of skins. We

found the best stock of these for sale in Calcutta in a famous house on

the opposite side of the street from the Grand Hotel. It is essential to

select a tiger skin with perfect claws and natural teeth, as too often

artificial ones are used to promote a sale, and to have them perfect in

their curing is most desirable; if not, your trunk in which they are

packed will be well filled with vermin. A zinc trunk is advisable, which

can be purchased in the shops, and at reasonable prices.

Adieux are spoken, the beautiful bay sparkles in the sunlight, and we

bid a farewell to the land we may never see again. My own personal

regrets are few, for I have suffered during the entire sojourn from a

depression very unlike my normal condition. I hope this benighted race

may yet be brought from darkness into light and that one common

brotherhood may be established, and love divine shine over all.