CHAPTER XXI

Travel in the old days--Sequestered Sussex--Country homes--A mellow

land--A gibbet post and its story--Chiddingly and its church--The

Pelham buckle--Wayside crosses--St. Dunstan's tongs and his anvil--A

curious brass--Iron stocks--Home again.

From Worthing our road led for three or four miles along "the beached

margin of the sea," a straight stretch of dreary and shelterless

shingly road, looking doubly dreary after the pleasant green lanes

we had so recently travelled. At the end of this we crossed the Arun

close above where it joins the Channel, its short race run, its life

almost too brief to grow into a real river; sea-gulls were whirling

about it, but what they did there I could not make out; they were not

catching fish, nor did they alight on the land or the water, but kept

whirling round and round restlessly just over one spot in an apparently

purposeless manner; but it pleased me to watch them, for the freedom of

the wing is a glorious thing. When sea-gulls do this away from the sea

I am told it is a sign of bad weather.

On the other side of the river stood the old town of Shoreham with its

shipping, and above the town rose its weather-beaten, ancient Norman

church tower; square, massive, grey and stern like its builders,

strangely sculptured, too, by the salt spray and sea winds that have

wrought their will upon it. From our point of view the town had an

ancient look, though much of it is modern enough, but the grime of its

smoke had toned down the new to the old. Beyond Shoreham lies Brighton,

and to avoid the tedious and unprofitable drive through both towns and

along a mere succession of houses we turned up by the river-side and

went northward inland in search of old-fashioned places.

We paid a toll at the bridge by which we crossed the Arun, and that was

the only toll we had on the way. Years ago, when I was much younger

and took long driving tours, the tolls I had to pay at the toll-gates

often cost me more than my dinner, to say nothing of the provoking fact

of having frequently to pull up, and often besides be kept waiting for

change. Those old toll-keepers were a race apart, and in remote places

would dally at the gate whilst they asked me for the news of the day.

Such trifles seem to make those old times appear farther off than they

are. It was slow travelling then, and with tired horses often your

choice of an inn for the night was "Hobson's choice," for you could

not go farther--yet these leisured old times make pleasant memory. Now

wherever you go you can rarely escape the morning newspaper; to do

so is a test of remoteness indeed. What with telegraphs, telephones,

railways and motors, news travels fast and the world is made smaller.

It was the coach that brought the first tidings of events in times

past, and its arrival was eagerly watched for in the towns and villages

on the way: so was the news of Trafalgar and Waterloo spread through

the land. Some of those toll-keepers, it is said, were in league

with the highwayman, and signalled to him about any likely passing

and lonely traveller by an open or a shut window, at night by means

of a light in the same window; but this may be scandal. At least we

know that some rascally landlords of inns were accomplices of the

highwayman; rumour indeed has it that Dick Turpin was so indignant at

a certain landlord giving information to a rival "when under articles

to him" that he threatened to shoot that landlord. In return for his

services the toll-keeper was never robbed of his day's takings. There

is a tale told of a certain lady of quality who in those exciting times

of travel always used to take with her a purse filled with base coin to

hand over: but how, I wonder, did that lady become possessed of so much

base coin?

It was a pleasant drive by the side of the river to the pretty village

of Bramber, with its half-timber cottages and fragment of a Norman

castle on a wooded knoll. I think it was at Bramber that a friend told

me a few years ago he visited an interesting little museum and found

the following admission notice: "Adults twopence, Children One penny,

Ladies and gentlemen what they will." I wonder how many extra pennies

good folk were induced to part with for the glory of being in the

latter category? A somewhat similar notice I read in an inn garden:

"People must not pluck the flowers. Ladies and gentlemen never do."

There was some art in that notice.

From Bramber we drove through a fine open country of wide prospects,

the forgathering of the hedgerow trees making the distance look like

one vast forest--a forest never reached but that always circles the

horizon. Next we came to Henfield, a quiet and picturesque village.

After Henfield we got into a sequestered land beyond railways and on to

some pleasant by-roads and narrow lanes where in sunny nooks hosts of

wild flowers flourished, and the hedges delighted in tangled disorder.

We were again in a land of sleepy farmsteads of the old Sussex type,

farmsteads of time-toned walls, weather-tinted tiling, long, low,

lichen-laden roofs, and great chimney-stacks--always a great and

shapely chimney-stack of much the same pattern, but of a very good and

pleasing pattern. This type of farmhouse is not confined to Sussex, but

may be found over its near borders both in Kent and in Surrey. Such

farmhouses are much sought after to-day, I am told, to be converted

into homes for town people, because of their picturesque charm. This

has come about, I believe, in a measure owing to the motor-car making

accessible even remote country places; no longer do people depend

wholly on the railway as formerly; indeed an estate agent told me

that often the stipulation of country home seekers now is "not near a

railway." People,

Weary of men's voices and their tread,

Of clamouring bells and whirl of wheels that pass,

desire to get into the real country and away from the crowd. I have

just been reading in that delightful book, _An Odd Farmhouse_, how

such an old house was found, and the charm of the life in it. "It lay

in a dimple of the Downs, all around it were meadows.... A long, low,

Jacobean building of simple but beautiful lines.... I looked through

the dining-room windows and saw the tiled floor, the oak cupboards

built into the wall, the great beams traversing the ceiling, the

Gargantuan chimney-place, some eleven feet long, and deep enough to

hold settles in the ingle-nook. There was a raised platform for logs,

an old Sussex iron fire-back and a swinging crane with many hooks and

arms." Such a picture sets me longing to live in some similar old

Jacobean farmhouse: would only such good fortune were mine. I know

the picture is true, for I have more than once, and in different old

Jacobean homes, spent a night with mine hosts in them. I have sat

in their ingle-nooks before blazing fires of logs on their hearths,

watching the fitful flames leap up their wide chimneys, as they threw

a ruddy glow on beamed ceiling and panelled wall whilst casting

mysterious shadows around; and I have fed my full of the poetic charm

and the romance, rare in these commonplace days, of those nights. The

builder of a house never invented a better thing than the old-fashioned

big ingle-nook: not the poor pretence affair that the modern architect

calls one, with a cheerless, slow, combustion coal grate in its centre;

but an ingle-nook at least ten feet wide--and many are more--with a big

oak beam above, and deep enough to hold settles to seat comfortably

four about the wide hearth, with its fire-back and fire-dogs intended

for the burning of wood, such as they built in the Jacobean age when

men knew how to build homes to live in and joy in, not merely houses

for shelter--homes that were pictures without and within.

[Illustration: A JACOBEAN DOORWAY.]

But I have strayed from the road. It was a quiet land we were in, one

out of the way of much traffic, for the lanes seemed to lead nowhere in

particular, and only to exist for local convenience, but they take you

into the heart of the real country: a land as hushed as ever it was in

the distant days of "Queen Bess," for there has nothing arisen since

to disturb its foretime tranquillity--unless, perhaps, the rare and

temporary intrusion of a motor-car whose driver has lost his way. It

is for such unpretentious, peaceful scenery that the Englishman yearns

at times when in foreign lands far away. Just a yearning for the sight

of England's green fields, green hedges, leafy elms, and old homes,

nothing more. Even Byron, that wanderer, sings:

A green field is a sight which makes us pardon

The absence of that more sublime construction

Which mixes up vines, olives, precipices,

Glaciers, volcanoes, oranges, and ices.

Also did not Keats, when in Italy, once tell Severn that he lay awake

one night just thinking all the while of England's green fields and her

flowers?

I have often wondered how so simple a thing as a purely English

pastoral landscape can so greatly please; wherein exactly lies its

strong power to charm? I once took an American friend for a long drive

through a beautiful corner of England. I selected it specially,

wishing to give my visitor a pleasant impression of the old country.

There were hills and fair woods on the way, winding streams with

ancient stone bridges across them, a lovely ruined priory in a lonely

glen, old homes, many gabled and ivy-clad, picturesque cottages, and a

quaint, old-world village or two. These were some of the good things we

saw. When the journey was ended--we took it by motor-car, so we went

far--I asked my friend what pleased him the most. "Well, I think,"

said he, "it's the mellow, domesticated look of the country, as though

man and nature had long been on familiar terms there; but what really

appeals to me most are just your green meadows studded with daisies,

and your beautiful hedges." It was actually the simple sight of the

daisied meadows and the green hedges that pleased him more than all the

other good things, and the other things were very good indeed. It is

sometimes enlightening to see our land as others see it. Listen to what

Mark Twain says in his _More Tramps Abroad_:--

After all, in the matter of certain physical patent rights there is

only one England. Now that I have sampled the globe I am not in doubt.

There is the beauty of Switzerland, and it is repeated in the glaciers

and snowy ranges of many parts of the earth; there is the beauty of

the fiord, and it is repeated in New Zealand and Alaska; there is the

beauty of Hawaii, and it is repeated in ten thousand islands of the

Southern Seas; there is a beauty of the prairie and the plain, and it

is repeated here and there in the earth; each of these is worshipful,

each is perfect in its way, yet holds no monopoly of its beauty; but

that beauty which is England, is alone; it has no duplicate. It is

made up of very simple details--just grass, and trees, and shrubs, and

roads, and hedges, and gardens, and houses, and churches, and castles,

and here and there a ruin, and over all a mellow dreamland of history.

But its beauty is incomparable, and all its own.

There must surely be some special charm in a country, unassuming though

it may be, to cause such praise of it to be written. Does not even

cosmopolitan Kipling pronounce his preference for "Sussex by the sea"

over all the world?

We were in Sussex again, but, in spite of Kipling, I love Sussex

inland, sequestered Sussex of woodlands, sleepy villages, ancient

farmsteads and cottages, and genuine ruralness, infinitely more than

"Sussex by the sea," with its fringe of more or less fashionable

watering-places. Inland Sussex, on the whole, is the Sussex and the

England of the long past, delightful to see, but much of seaside

Sussex is the England of to-day, and is rather depressing to me.

The real charm of Sussex lies in its ancientness and in its simple,

good-humoured country folk, not in its modernness. People who rush from

London by rail or by motor on the main highways to Brighton, or other

of its seaside towns, know little of rural Sussex or the rare charms of

its silvan scenes.

Travelling through this peaceful land, loitering along its lanes that

tempted one to loiter because of their pleasantness, we eventually

turned up at Ansty Cross, where we were on one of the three familiar

Brighton roads, for there is a choice of roads from London to Brighton,

all beloved of the speedy motorist who heeds not the scenery he passes;

but they are dusty, with much hasting traffic, and not the roads that

a quiet-loving pilgrim would choose. For this cause we did not go far

on the Brighton road, but left it by the first promising lane, and in

time we reached a little green in an out-of-the-way spot. I could not

find it named on my map; there was no village there, but a cottage

or two faced it, and in the centre of the green was a post with a

weathercock on the top, and the weathercock had the date of years past

pierced in it, a date I have forgotten. The post was railed round for

protection, so I thought there might possibly be some story connected

with it, otherwise why so protected? I asked particulars of a cottager,

and he, nothing loth to be informing, told me that the post was part

of an ancient gibbet--I do not remember having seen such a thing

before--whereon a man was hung in chains for robbery and murder. It

appears from the tale I was told that a tramp sought food and shelter

one night at a cottage close by; the cottager took pity on him and gave

him food and a night's lodging, and was in return robbed of the small

savings he had by the scoundrel of a tramp, who richly deserved his

fate. Such are the tales of the road.

It must have been a gruesome sight in old days, and one not at times to

be avoided, for travellers to see a man hung up thus by the wayside,

his shrivelled body swinging, or perhaps only his bones rattling, in

the wind to the creaking of the chains. I remember a certain church

clerk telling me a story of how in past days, at a spot near his

church, a poor woman's only son was exposed on a gibbet--I think it

was merely for stealing a sheep he suffered death, stolen to provide

his widowed mother with food,--and how in after days the poor,

bereaved, broken-hearted, solitary widow used to tramp all alone on

dark winter nights to the gibbet to pick up any bones of her boy that

might have fallen to the ground, and carry them carefully home, so that

she might secretly bury them in a quiet corner of the churchyard. I

could only hope that the story was not true, but the clerk assured me

it was, "every word of it." Sometimes I am thankful I live in these

latter days.

Then wandering over more winding lanes we came to the top of Scaynes

Hill, where the road dropped down steeply before us, and from where

there is a fine view looking over the fair wooded Weald to the bare

but not barren downs, and just then over their long, undulating line

the sea mists were creeping, and I thought there came wafted inland

the rare scent of the sea. The mists kept rolling in great masses down

the green sides of the hills, then as if by magic vanished from view.

I never saw the South Downs look so glorious or so mountainous as they

looked with their crowning of mists and their dark shadowed bases. To

realise the full beauty of the downs you must see them in all weathers

and not in sunshine alone. Sunshine is cheerful, but sunshine is a

tamer; now mists give the downs just a suspicion of grandeur. Even

Snowdon looks tame on a clear, cloudless day.

Descending Scaynes Hill we mounted again to a wide open common with a

big white windmill topping it and so exposed to all the winds, a mill

boldly in evidence that surely would have tempted Don Quixote, had he

been of to-day and passed by that way, to try a tilt or two at it.

Without the mill the common would have looked bare and have been wholly

characterless except for its openness. I think, after an old castle or

a ruined abbey, there is more character about a windmill than in any

other building; moreover, a windmill is always a telling and a graceful

structure, so a pleasing, even a poetic, feature in any landscape. I

really think that more than half the charm of Holland lies in its many

bickering windmills, and the life their whirling sails give to its flat

and dreamy landscapes with their slow canals.

After a time our road led us between great rocks, so quickly in

England does the scenery change its character, for the rocks suggested

a road in the wild North Country; it was as though we had suddenly

been transported there. So we reached steep-streeted Uckfield, and in

a few more miles the little railless town of East Hoathly, somewhat

beyond which I espied, peeping over distant woods, a tall stone church

steeple; it attracted my eye, for it is an unusual sight in Sussex,

where the churches have mostly square towers, or steeples roofed with

oak shingles. On consulting my map I found the steeple belonged to

Chiddingly church, a little remote village off any main road. I had

indeed some trouble in finding my way there along the narrow lanes that

alone led to it. The church proved interesting. For the village I

cannot say much. It consisted of but a few houses, not more than half

a dozen, I think, a small shop where they appeared to sell everything

from bacon to pins (it was the post office also), and a little inn

boasting of the sign of "The Six Bells," a sign that presumably gives

one the number of bells in the steeple, for it was an old custom to

represent the number of bells in the neighbouring church on an inn

sign--one amongst other odd bits of information I picked up on the

journey; my journey indeed provided me with quite a storehouse of

information about unimportant matters.

Chiddingly church has an ancient and time-worn look. I noticed that

the steeple was bound round with iron chains, and I asked a man of the

place if he knew why they were there, for they were not ornamental.

"They be to keep the old steeple together," said he. Poor old steeple,

thought I, to have to depend upon chains to hold it in place. "It was

the village blacksmith's idea," explained the man. Now I should have

thought it was an architect's job. But iron chains exposed thus to all

storms would in no long time rust away, I should imagine, though I

dare say they will last for some years; but never before have I seen a

building so repaired. It is truly a primitive arrangement without even

the advantage of being picturesque.

The west doorway displays at either end of the drip moulding the quaint

device of the Pelham buckle. Now this device was the crest or badge

of Sir John Pelham, that gallant knight who made prisoner the King

of France at the famous fight of Poictiers, after which he assumed

as his crest or badge a representation of the sword-belt buckle of

the captured king, and on any building he founded, or helped in its

construction, he caused a carving of that badge to be placed. This

bit of information I also picked up on the way, though on a previous

tour. On a good many churches in Sussex you will find the Pelham buckle

engraved. Such was the pride of the Pelhams.

The west window of the church is notably out of the centre of the

tower, and is but one example of many showing how the old builders

considered not strict uniformity, and by so doing, I feel, added a

certain charm of irregularity to their structures; they were content

with eye measurements; to-day the foot-rule settles everything with a

mathematical and eye-provoking accuracy.

Within the church what first caught my eye was the gorgeous monument,

in a side building all to itself, of "Sir John Jefferay, Knt., late

Lord Chief Baron of the Excheqvr," who "dyed the xxiii of May 1575."

This monument is somewhat mutilated, it is said at one time by country

folk who mistook it for the tomb of the hated Judge Jeffreys. A little

away from the church stands a portion of the wing, with its windows

bricked up, of the once stately home of the Jefferays, now converted

into the outbuildings of a farmhouse--and that and their tomb marks the

end of their glory.

I noticed in the church an old-fashioned two-decker pulpit, with a

sounding-board above; you do not see many of these nowadays. This

reminds me of a story of old times I heard on the way and that was

fresh to me. It appears that in a certain country church a strange

parson had taken duty one Sunday. Now it was the custom there not to

begin the service before the squire had arrived. But the strange parson

knew nothing of this nor of the squire, so he promptly started with

"When the wicked man," whereupon the clerk below hurriedly stood up and

in a loud whisper exclaimed, "You must not begin yet, sir, he has not

come in."

From Chiddingly we proceeded over hilly and winding lanes and roads to

Cross-in-Hand, a lonely spot with an inn and a few cottages, so named,

I presume, from a pre-Reformation cross that probably once stood there.

These at the junction of roads (as here), where they often were placed,

were frequently provided with a hand to point out the way, and so were

the forerunners of the later finger-posts. A few more miles brought

us to historic Mayfield, set boldly on a hill, where in the Convent

(once the palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury) they show you the

veritable tongs of St. Dunstan, and point out the very dent made in

them caused by his Satanic Majesty's nose when he pinched it, and

his anvil also at which the saint was at work at the time. They sell

picture post-cards of them in the town also. I thought it was a monk of

Glastonbury, and at Glastonbury, who had the credit of this thrilling

exploit; but at Mayfield they declare the event took place there, and

are not the actual tongs proof sufficient? At Glastonbury there are no

such tongs; now at Mayfield the doubting traveller may see the tongs

and the dent in them.

By the way, I heard a rather quaint story of the palace in the

troublesome old days when the roads were infested with robbers. Late

one night a loud knock was heard at the door, whereupon the porter

opened the little iron-guarded shutter to see who was there, and

discovered a man begging in God's name for some food; but the porter

did not like the look of the stranger and took him for a thief, so

he kept the door closed, when suddenly the big bolts flew aside of

their own accord and the door opened of itself; it was a saint who was

standing outside! But how could the poor porter tell that, if the man

looked not the part? So I think it was hardly fair of the saint to

reprove the porter for not at once opening the door in God's name. The

modern tramp is no saint, but he makes very free use of God's name.

From Mayfield we struck west over a wild, open country in search of

Ticehurst, that appeared, from my map, to be a little village or small

town, fairly remote from the rail and therefore possibly interesting.

It was a fine drive through a rough-and-tumble country, and though

Ticehurst disappointed me, the road to it did not. Ticehurst proved

to be a clean, neat, wide-streeted village, with a village well in

the centre--a village of some old houses and pleasantly situated,

but not otherwise specially attractive. The inn there is said to be

of the fourteenth century, though it hardly looks it. Finding the

village uninteresting I strolled to the church, a grey and ancient

pile overlooking a vast extent of rolling and wooded hills. It was

almost worth going to Ticehurst for that revelation of scenery. Over

the church porch I noticed a parvis chamber, and within the building a

quantity of stained glass in its many and large windows; some of the

glass is old and good, some modern and not so good. I noticed also

the curious circular clerestory windows of singular design, a unique

feature of the church as far as my knowledge extends. Portions of the

stone steps to the former rood-loft still exist, I observed, and there

is an old carved oak cover to the font with a worn inscription on it

that I could not decipher. The chief interest of Ticehurst church,

however, lies in a curious brass to "John Wybarne Armigi," who died

"sexto decimo die ffebruarii Anno Rigni Regis henrici Septimi quinto."

He is represented on his brass in full armour between his two wives,

and at least four times their size. This suggests that the brass was

originally only intended for one figure, and that those of the two

wives were added afterwards, so there was no room to make them larger

in the remaining space available. It is, too, a curious circumstance

that the armour shown is of a considerably earlier period than that in

which this John Wybarne lived. This further suggests to me that it may

have been a memorial to some former knight basely appropriated, for

such things were done in times past, as many a palimpsest brass proves;

to me in the details of its armour it bears a close resemblance to the

one to Sir John D'Agentine at Horseheath in Cambridgeshire, bearing

date of 1382.

From Ticehurst we had a glorious drive through a rolling and

well-wooded country as far as the Hastings main road; this we followed

to Robertsbridge with a long and steep descent to that little,

old-fashioned town. I think it was Walpole, when posting one night

this way, called this descent a precipice, but it scarcely is that.

Those old travellers often took a strangely exaggerated view of things,

some of them going so far as to call even the modest Welsh mountains

"frightful, horrid, awe-inspiring," and so forth in superabundance.

We followed the Hastings road as far as Battle, where we turned to

the right and proceeded westwards towards Eastbourne and home. In due

course we came to Ninfield, a little village high up in the world, and

not far from "Standard Hill," as shown on the Ordnance map, and where

tradition asserts William the Conqueror of old first raised his banner

in England, and the morrow beheld a kingdom he had won with the aid of

his armoured knights and a ruse. The hill has a commanding position

overlooking the country all round, so there is nothing improbable in

the tradition recording a fact, and the name of the hill, preserved

through centuries to this day, is suggestive. At Ninfield there are

some iron stocks under trees by the wayside. I do not remember having

seen stocks of iron before. There is a tale told of these, that a man

was condemned to be placed in the wooden stocks that preceded them,

only his friends hacked them to pieces overnight, and there were

no stocks to put him in; so fresh ones of iron, not readily to be

demolished, were ordered, which stand to this day as serviceable as

when they were made, and that must be a long while ago, though I am

unaware of the date when the punishment of the stocks was abolished.

We drove on from Ninfield over winding roads that led us along the

top of the hills overlooking the sea, sparkling in the sunshine that

day, and past time-mellowed farmsteads, many with their quaint,

conical-roofed oast-houses adjoining; then we dropped suddenly down

from the hills to the wide plain of the Pevensey marshes, green as a

land may be; we were nearing Eastbourne and home, and the end of our

journey. So now, kind reader--I think I may venture to call you "kind

reader" as you have followed me so far, for that surely is test enough

to admit of such an address--I here bid you a reluctant farewell; for

your company in spirit on our pleasant journey I heartily thank you.

Good-bye.

[Illustration]

INDEX

Abbeys--

Buildwas, 229-231

Haughmond, 213-214, 217-221, 250

Lilleshall, 249-250

Waverley, 89-93

White Ladies, 250, 262-264

Abbot's Bromley, 274-278

Aberdovey, 163-165, 172, 176-178

Abingdon, 316

Albrighton, 195

Aldbourne, 115-117

Alfriston, 15, 17-18, 162

Alton, 344-349

Ansty Cross, 386

Ashdown Forest, 62-63

Atcham, 222-223

Atherstone, 225, 281-285

Bablockhythe Ferry, 317-318

Banbury, 285-287, 290-293

Banwy River, 192-193

Barcombe, 24

Basingstoke, 109

Batemans, 47

Battle, 395

Baxter, Richard, 228

Beachy Head, 8, 9, 23

Beaconsfield, 333-337, 341-343

Blenheim, 320

Bloxham, 293-296

Bognor, 371

Boscobel, 237, 245, 250, 341-343

Boswell, 299

Brighton, 373-374

Broadhurst, 57-58

Broad Marston, 65

Broadway, 139-140

Broom, 65

Browne, Sir Thomas, 65

Bunyan, 228

Burford, 153-156, 304-306

Burnham Beeches, 343

Burroughs, John, 174

Burton-on-Trent, 280-281

Byron, Lord, 118, 150

Cann Office Inn, 188-191

Carlyle, 101

Carno, 170-171

Castles--

Boarstall Tower, 322, 326-328

Bodiam, 10, 37

Bramber, 381

Carreg Cennin, 10

Farnham, 93

Hurstmonceux, 22

King John's, 103

Ludlow, 157

Red Castle, 205, 207

Tong, 251

Tutbury, 280-281

Cemmaes, 171

Chapel House, 298-300

Charles I., 175, 290, 305

Charles II., 236, 239, 263, 267-271

Charwelton, 289-290

Chichester, 370-371

Chiddingly, 389-392

Chipping Norton, 300

Church Stretton, 161-162

Churches--

Alton, 347-348

Bloxham, 294-296

Burford, 153-156, 305

Chiddingly, 389-392

Corhampton, 358-359

Culmington, 159

Dane Hill, 60

Fletching, 31-40

Greywell, 107

Highworth, 313-315

Horsted Keynes, 51-59

Kingsclere, 110

Lilleshall, 248

Odiham, 96-99

Shipton-under-Wychwood, 302-303

Stanton Lacy, 158-159

Ticehurst, 393-394

Tong, 250-262

Cirencester, 125, 128-130, 145

Claverham, 19-23

Clifford Chambers, 65

Coalbrookdale, 231

Coate, 118-121

Cobbett, William, 24, 62-63, 81, 109, 347

Coleridge, 196

Constable, John, 42

Corhampton, 357-359, 363

Cotswolds, The, 13, 134, 139, 304

Cox, David, 42

Craven Arms, 160-161

Cricklade, 125

Crondall, 94

Cross-in-Hand, 392

Cuckmere Valley, 17

Culmington, 159

Daglingworth, 129

Dane Hill, 59-61

Daventry, 225, 273, 285

De Quincey, 45

Dickens, Charles, 43

Dinas Mawddwy, 185

Dovey, Valley of, 171-172

Down Apney, 127

Dyfi Valley, 182

Eastbourne, 38

East Hoathly, 389

Eaton Constantine, 228

Emerson, 137

Emsworth, 370

Evesham, Vale of, 141

Eynsham, 319

Fareham, 367-370

Faringdon, 316

Farnham, 93-94

Felpham, 374-376

Fletching, 31-40, 56

Frensham Pond, 84-86

Friston, 9, 162

Gibbon, 35-36, 56

Godalming, 83

Great-upon-Little, 80-81

Great Witley, 142-143

Greywell, 142-143

Hampden, John, 89

Havant, 370

Hawkestone, 200-201, 203

Hazlitt, William, 5-6, 152

Henfield, 382

High Ercall, 210-211

Highworth, 312-316

High Wycombe, 332-333

Hindhead, 109

Hook, 344

Horsted Keynes, 51-59

Huddington Court, 240-243

Hungerford, 111-114

Ironbridge, 227, 231-232

Islip, 322

Jefferies, Richard, 118-120, 168, 373

Johnson, Dr., 45, 58, 201, 204, 299, 372

Jonson, Ben, 137

Joseph's Stone, 321-322

Kennett Valley, 114

King's Bromley, 273-275

Kingsclere, 110

Kipling, Rudyard, 47, 386

Lamb, Charles, 81

Langstone Harbour, 370

Laughton Level, 23

Leighton, 229

Leighton, Archbishop, 56-58

Lewes, 23-24, 49

Lichfield, 225, 273

Lilleshall, 247-248

Liphook, 109

Litlington, 17

Littlecote, 115

Littlehampton, 377

Little Stretton, 161

Llandysill, 144

Llanerfyl, 191-192

Long Crendon, 329

Long Mountain, 165

Ludlow, 157

Machynlleth, 174-176

Madeley, 227-232

Madeley Court, 233-239, 245-246, 266

Maidenhead, 343

Malvern Hills, 141

Marton Mere, 166

Mayfield, 392-393

Meon Stoke, 357-358

Meon Valley, 349

Montgomery, 166-167

Moreton Corbet, 207-210

Moseley Hall, 170

Muchelney, 15

Newbury, 111

Newton, 169, 174-175

Ninfield, 395-396

North Moor, 316

Oddington, 322

Odiham, 94-104, 110, 344

Ot Moor, 321-322

Pepys, Samuel, 132, 150, 305

Pershore, 141

Pit Down, 31

Plynlimmon, 227

Quennington, 129

Robertsbridge, 395

Ruskin, John, 149

St. Leonard's Forest, 64

Scaynes Hill, 388

Scott, Sir Walter, 89, 150

Sedgemoor, 165

Shakespeare, 20, 94, 124, 147

Sheffield (in Sussex), 40-48

Sheriff Hales, 247

Shifnal, 247

Shoreham, 379-380

Shrewsbury, 163-164, 194, 213, 221-222, 225, 281

Siddington, 130

Soberton, 361-363

South Downs, 8, 11-13, 23, 388

South Warnborough, 344

Standard Hill, 395

Stanton Harcourt, 319

Stanton Lacy, 158-159

Stevenson, 2, 41, 168, 324, 372

Stipperstones, 165

Stokenchurch, 332

Stow-on-the-Wold, 300

Swindon, 121

Syde, 133-134

Tal Valley, 171

Tenbury, 146-153

Tennyson, Lord, 108, 131

Tetsworth, 330-331

Thame, 329

Thoreau, 118-119

Ticehurst, 393-395

Tilgate Forest, 64

Tong, 250-262

Tutbury, 280-281

Uckfield, 389

Uffington, 221-222

Uriconium, 223-226

Uttoxeter, 225, 279

Walton, Izaak, 87, 359

Warnford, 350-352

Watling Street, 161, 225, 272-273, 281, 285

Welshpool, 193

Wem, 195-203

Wenlock Edge, 159

West Dean, 12, 14-17

West Hoathly, 15, 63-64, 66-80

West Meon, 350

Weston, 203

White Ladies, 262-264

Wickham, 365-367

Wickhamford, 65

Wokingham, 343

Wollaston, 193-194

Woodstock, 319-321

Wootton Bassett, 121-125

Worcester, 141-142

Worth Forest, 64

Worthing, 378-379

Wrekin, The, 227

_Printed by_ R. & R. CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_.

* * * * * *

Transcriber's note:

Plain print and punctuation errors were corrected.

A Leisurely Tour in England · 第 21 / 21 章