Oulasso. — Facibrisso. — Toumané. — Implements of husbandry. —
Couara. — Koraba. — Douasso. — Kong. — Baunan. — Garo. —
Forges. — Nibakhasso.
About two o’clock in the afternoon, we left the village of Mouriosso,
and proceeded in the direction of E.N.E. over a hard soil, composed
of grey earth mixed with sand, and studded with ferruginous stones
and gravel. It was barren in the extreme. About six in the evening
we halted at Oulasso, a village, the huts of which are enclosed and
built like those of Mouriosso, and containing three or four hundred
inhabitants. In this village we found a caravan of Mandingo traders
coming from the south, where they had been buying colat-nuts, which
they intended to sell at Jenné. A large hut was assigned to us;
but we could not stay in it on account of the heat and smoke. The
fire was lighted at the further end of the hut, which might be about
twenty feet long by eight broad, and the smoke had no outlet but the
door. The fire consequently produced the same effect as a furnace. I
passed the night under a mimosa, which grew before our hut, having
covered myself with my wrapper, for the air was cool.
As the village was too small to afford lodging for two caravans
several of the merchants slept, like myself, in the open air; however,
they took the precaution of lighting fires. These fires, glimmering
through the village, had a very curious effect. They served for the
women to cook by; at our last halting station we had procured millet
enough for the supper of the whole party; it was well we had taken
this precaution, for we could get nothing at Oulasso. The soil in
the vicinity of the village consists of very productive sand, in part
cultivated. The Bambara inhabitants did not understand the Mandingo
language; but we had the good fortune to meet with a woman who acted
as our interpreter.
On the 3rd of February, at six in the morning, we proceeded in the
direction of N.E. Our caravan was now very strong, being augmented by
that which we had joined the preceding evening. We pursued our course
over a soil composed of sand and very hard earth, covered with stones
and gravel, which rendered the road very fatiguing. The country was,
however, well wooded with cés and nédés. We crossed three large
streams, by which we were detained a long time on account of our
asses. The banks of these streams were thickly wooded, and in the
shady parts grew many palm-trees. The natives are not aware that this
tree furnishes an intoxicating liquor; they extract the oil, which
they are very fond of, and with which they anoint their bodies. The
palm-tree does not grow so abundantly here as on the coast. About ten
o’clock in the morning we arrived at Facibrisso, where there is a
great market for colat-nuts, allspice, long pepper, which is brought
from the south, cloth manufactured in the country, and salt brought
from the banks of the Dhioliba, besides a considerable quantity
of millet, cotton, pistachios, and other native produce. The huts,
which have flat roofs and only a ground-floor, are built of bricks
baked in the sun. They are extremely inconvenient and so slight that
they frequently fall down. All the villages, as far as Jenné, are
built in the same way, and in general shaded by numerous bombaces and
baobabs. The inhabitants gather the fruit of the baobab and sell it
to the caravans. They even carry it to Jenné, where it is scarce,
and from Jenné it is exported to Timbuctoo. The cé and the nédé
are astonishingly abundant in all this part of the country. Proceeding
towards the north, the baobabs become less common and the bombaces
surpass them in size. The ronnier is abundant in some places.
On the 4th of February, at six in the morning, we set off in the
direction of E.S.E. over a very good fertile soil. We crossed a river,
after which we proceeded along a road covered with gravel. After
travelling four miles we reached Toumané, where we found a numerous
caravan on its way from Jenné. These traders brought us the
unwelcome information that colats were very plentiful and very cheap
at Jenné. This news was very disheartening to the poor merchants
from Timé.
I went to see the market, which I found better than those of the
villages through which I had previously passed. It was held under
a sort of penthouse, which kept off the rain in bad weather. It
was very well supplied with all the productions of the country. I
even saw butcher’s meat and European commodities, such as cloth,
muskets, powder and glass trinkets. The female traders managed their
business cleverly. I bought some maumies, which were better made and
superior to those in other villages. I saw some wild Guinea fowl,
which are very common in this country: they are sold at the same
price as common fowls. There were in this village many strangers from
Ségo, Yamina, and other places. The inhabitants paid no particular
attention to me, all taking me for a Moor. I found them mild and
civil towards strangers; they were very neatly dressed, in comparison
with the inhabitants of the villages which I had visited. My guide,
Karamo-osila, discouraged by the news brought by the merchants from
Jenné, resolved a second time to proceed by the way of Kayaye and
Sansanding. This decision would have annoyed me extremely if the
rest of the party had concurred in it; but he and his associates
were the only persons who approved the plan. I made a bargain with
an old man from Timé who was going to Jenné, and promised that on
reaching this town I would give him a beautiful piece of cloth if
he would allow his ass to carry my luggage. This arrangement seemed
to please him. On the evening of our separation, I wished to make a
third present to my guide, consisting of a piece of coloured cloth;
but he declined accepting it, telling me, that in serving me he had
not been influenced by motives of interest, but by the wish to perform
an action which would be agreeable to God and the prophet. He added
that I had a long journey before I should reach Mecca, and that, as
my resources were not great, they would if I made frequent presents
soon be exhausted. I was not to be duped by this; I perceived that
he wanted something else: in fact he asked me to sell him a pair of
scissors and some paper. Being convinced that I should be thought
greedy if I sold him these articles, I promised to give him them at
our parting, which was to be the next day. During the journey I had
lent seven hundred cowries, partly to my guide and partly to other
persons of the caravan. They all faithfully repaid me.
On the morning of the 5th of February, I went, accompanied by
Karamo-osila, to call on the man from Timé, with whom I was henceforth
to travel. At parting from my old guide, I presented him with the pair
of scissors and the paper which I had promised him. He asked me for
some cowries to enable him to pursue his journey, under the pretence
that his colat-nuts would not sell, and that he should be unable to
purchase provisions: I paid little attention to his request. Although
I had every reason to praise his conduct, yet I parted from him without
regret, for I was continually annoyed by his people, and principally by
his wives, who took pleasure in tormenting me. I was their butt, and a
constant subject of amusement to them. Indeed, during the halts, from
the annoyance which I experienced, I might have fancied myself still at
Timé; the men never took the trouble to make them hold their tongues.
At seven o’clock on the morning of the 5th of February, we separated,
Karamo-osila going to the N.N.E. and we to the east. At a little
distance from the village we crossed a stream by a very substantial
bridge. There were between six and seven hundred persons and thirty
or forty asses to pass. Many travellers with their women forded the
stream, being up to their waists in water. It was a terrible scene of
uproar and confusion. Every one was loudly disputing about the amount
of the passage-duty, which was paid in cowries. Our caravan had been
augmented by a number of merchants who traded in cloth, allspice,
and long pepper. Having reached the opposite bank of the stream,
we proceeded towards the N.E. along a fine level road. The country
was open and interspersed with cés and nédés. The soil, composed
of grey sand, was broken here and there by little hills. We crossed a
dry marsh, covered with rich pasture, into which the natives turn their
cattle. The inhabitants of the neighbouring villages are so industrious
as to make dikes. They are raised to the height of three and a half,
or four feet, so as to confine the waters of the marsh, which would
otherwise inundate the country in the months of August and September.
About nine o’clock in the morning we halted at Oulasso, a village
composed of three or four small enclosures of equal size, and
containing about three hundred inhabitants.
At six in the morning of the 6th of February, we again set out and
proceeded six miles N.E. over the same kind of soil as on the preceding
day. The country was covered with bombaces and baobabs. We halted
about nine in the morning at Chesso. This village is formed like
Oulasso, of several little enclosures, very near to each other. The
surrounding country is very bare. There is a marsh, on the borders of
which the natives cultivate onions, beans, giraumons, &c. There are
also within the village many bombaces and baobabs. On arriving at the
hut allotted to us, I saw at the door a very dirty woman baking cakes
in an earthen frying-pan made in the country. I bought some of them,
not being able to procure any others; as there was no market in this
village. Our hut, which was very narrow and low, scarcely afforded room
for us and our luggage. However, I was obliged to pass the night in it.
My new companions clubbed to buy a goat. I gave seventy cowries for
my share, and unfortunately I could not eat it, the meat being hard
and badly cooked. An hour or two after supper, the negroes fell to
eating the head half roasted on the ashes; and after they had gnawed
the bones they gave them to the slaves.
The want of a market renders this place extremely dull. Its long,
crooked streets are very dirty, and contain pools of filthy water,
through which we were obliged to wade mid-leg deep in mud. Around
these pools the inhabitants grow herbs for their sauces. My supper,
consisting of the liquor in which the goat was boiled, helped to
recruit my strength, exhausted by travelling every day without
intermission.
At seven o’clock in the morning of the 7th of February, we left
Chesso, taking a N.E. direction. The soil was level and covered with
ferruginous stones and gravel. The vegetation was similar to that which
I observed on the preceding days, but I also saw some specimens of
the _rhamnus lotus_. We continued our journey over a grey sandy soil,
producing millet and various other things. A fresh breeze blew from
the north, and I should have been glad to warm myself, my clothing
being but slight and falling in tatters about me.
We arrived about nine in the morning at Pala, where we halted for the
rest of the day. This little village has a well stocked market. I
perceived in the neighbourhood many furnaces for smelting iron,
which is found on the surface of the soil. I saw also the implement
employed in the cultivation of the soil, the only one, I believe,
with which these people are acquainted, for I saw no other. It is a
hoe, a foot long and eight inches broad. The handle, which is about
sixteen inches in length, slants very much. In reaping they make use
of a sickle without teeth, as at Wassoulo.
At eight o’clock, on the morning of the 8th of February, we left
Pala, and proceeded to the N.E. over a soil composed of white hard
sand. The country is very open, but here and there are to be seen many
mimosas and cés. The cé, which, as I have before stated, furnishes
abundance of butter, grows spontaneously throughout the interior of
Africa. It would thrive admirably in our American colonies, where its
introduction would be a great service to humanity. To the inhabitants
of those regions the gift of this useful plant would be more valuable
than a mine of gold. It was nine o’clock in the morning when we
arrived at Maconeau, a pretty village, containing from three to four
hundred inhabitants, and situated in a well cultivated plain. Near
the village there is a low hill, extending from N.W. to S.E.
On the 9th of February, at six in the morning, we directed our
course N.E. and proceeded about a mile ascending the hill where I
saw many white calcareous stones. We descended by a very difficult
road into a fine, firm sandy plain, along which we proceeded five
miles. Although our daily journeys had not been very long, I was
nevertheless greatly fatigued. If, at times, I sat down while hot
under a tree to rest awhile, I was instantly chilled by a cool
wind. These sudden transitions caused those frequent colds which I
may rank among the greatest miseries I suffered during my travels. In
sleeping in the huts I experienced a similar inconvenience. The large
fires which the negroes are accustomed to make occasioned a suffocating
heat, and the wind penetrating through a badly closed door, chilled
me with cold; I sometimes coughed so much that I could not sleep,
and sat up part of the night; I occasionally adopted the plan of
sleeping out of doors, in order to enjoy a more equal temperature,
but from this I found little relief. I was exceedingly ill, and so
hoarse that it was necessary to come very close to me to hear me speak.
We met a caravan of traders coming from Jenné, where they had
purchased salt; they had with them some horses, which they had also
bought at that place. About nine o’clock in the morning we halted
at Couara, a pretty village, where we found an abundance of all the
necessaries of life. The inhabitants grow a great deal of cotton and
millet, and are supplied with water from a stream which runs E.N.E.,
half a mile from the village.
At eight o’clock in the morning of the 10th of February we quitted
Couara, and crossed the river called Koraba which delayed us at least
three hours. This river is narrow and deep, and its banks, which
are very high and well wooded, are composed of a red argillaceous
earth, mixed with sand, gravel, and fragments of rock. The current is
very rapid. The Koraba makes great ravages during its inundations,
sweeping away masses of earth, and enlarging its bed; in return for
these encroachments, however, it fertilises the country. This river
comes from the south and flows rapidly from N.E. to east; on its right
bank there is a chain of hills extending from south to E.N.E. The
natives and the Mandingo merchants assured me that this river passes
Kayaye, a considerable town, where a well frequented market is held,
five days’ journey N.N.W. of Couara, and that it falls into the
Dhioliba in the neighbourhood of Ségo. The Koraba is navigable for
vessels of from sixty to eighty tons; in the part which we crossed
it was ten feet deep, and from fifty to sixty fathoms wide. It is
called by some the Couaraba; several women from the village had
stationed themselves on the bank of the river, to sell maumies. I
bought some for my breakfast. We had two canoes to cross the river;
the boatmen were very hard in their demands upon us; they made us
pay in advance, and counted their cowries two or three times over,
to be assured that we had not deceived them. I was impatient at this
delay. The asses also gave us infinite trouble; it was necessary to
make them swim over, for the canoes were too small to receive them;
when they got into the middle of the river, these animals turned and
would have gone back to the bank which they had just left. At length,
one of the negroes, whose patience was worn out, put cords round the
necks of the asses, and fastening the other end round his own waist,
swam across, whilst the other Mandingoes, who were behind, beat the
animals and thus forced them on. We reached the right bank without
experiencing any other difficulty. I asked a Mandingo negress to give
me some water in a calabash, and she was good enough to add a little
millet-flour to it. It was near noon when we left the bank of the
river and proceeded towards the N.E. over a clayey soil. The country
in general was very open. I perceived some _nauclea Africana_. The
soil is covered with ferruginous stones, and in every direction are to
be seen hills of no great height, most of which extend from N.W. to
east and are covered with cés, at least those which I saw. About
half past two in the afternoon, having proceeded four miles and a
half, we halted at Douasso a village shaded by numerous baobabs and
bombaces. The wells, which were between twelve and fourteen feet deep,
afforded clean and pleasant water.
The surrounding country is very level and covered with nédés. Part of
our caravan remained at Couara, not being able to cross the river that
day. We were to wait for them at this village. I visited the market,
which I found supplied with fish, fresh and dried, a great deal of
millet, some rice, pistachios, maumies, and plenty of cotton. The
women of our caravan obtained some colat-nuts from their husbands,
to purchase this last article. They spin it, and, as I said before,
whatever profit it produces, is their own. I saw some persons weaving
under trees. In the evening our host presented us with a fowl, some
pistachios, and a fresh fish of the carp kind, which is very common
in the marshes: to catch it, the natives use a basket made of the
branches of a tree. My old guide, whose name was Kai-mou, returned
thanks for the present by a long prayer, and after assuring our host
that he would go to Mahomet’s paradise, he gave him eight colat-nuts,
valued in that country at forty-eight cowries.
After supper I took my seat on a sheep-skin in the court, to enjoy
the cool air. Here we saw a Mandingo merchant, a native of Kong, who
was returning from Jenné to trade in salt. He was alone, and carried
his merchandise on his head. I entered into conversation with him,
and obtained all the information I could respecting his country. He
told me that Kong, his native place, was a large town, the capital of
a district, inhabited by Mahometan Mandingoes. From Douasso, where
we were, he said it would take him a month and a half to travel to
Kong, with his load on his head. I asked him in what direction his
country lay, and he several times pointed to the S.S.E. and S. ¼
S.E. I had a pocket compass, which I was afraid to make use of, except
when alone. Had it been seen, it would probably have brought me into
trouble. In order to ascertain as correctly as I could the situation
of Kong, as described by the Mandingo, I remarked attentively the
place where he sat, and fixed upon an object near the point of the
horizon, which he had indicated. Next morning, without being seen by
any person, I satisfied myself of its situation. The merchant told me
that, on his return, he should leave Tangrera on his left, and pass
through a great trading village, inhabited as he said, by Mandingoes,
and a month’s journey from Douasso; he called it Dierisso. From that
place he said it would take fifteen days to reach Kong. He likewise
told me that the soil of his country was level and sandy; but very
productive in millet, rice, yams, cassava, giraumons, cés, nédés,
baobabs, and other useful trees and plants, and that his countrymen
were rich in oxen, sheep, goats, and poultry. They have also horses,
which must be a small breed, for he compared them with those of the
country in which we were.
I learned from my informant, that a market is held every day in the
town of Kong. The country is watered by numerous small streams,
but it contains no rivers. The people grow a great quantity of
cotton, of which they manufacture beautiful cloth, highly esteemed
in trade. There are no gold-mines in Kong. Gold is brought thither
from Baunan, which is fifteen days’ journey further south.
Baunan produces colat-nuts and a great quantity of gold, which
the inhabitants exchange for salt and cloth. The soil of Baunan,
although fertile and hilly, is uncultivated. The inhabitants, who
employ themselves in working the mines, obtain provisions from their
neighbours. The Kong trader told me that he had been many times at
Baunan, and that beyond Kong there were no Bambara negroes; the people
had, indeed, curly hair, but they spoke a different language. They are
all idolaters, and do not travel, having markets of their own. The
Mandingo merchants trade in Baunan, and go in caravans to Jenné,
taking with them gold, colat-nuts, allspice, and long pepper. The
negro, from whom I learned these particulars, told me that there
were at that time many traders of his country at Jenné, and that I
might, perhaps, see them. From Kong, caravans of pilgrims sometimes
go to Mecca. The Baunan country, to which this negro alluded, is most
probably the Tauman, which I heard mentioned by the good old woman
at Timé.
On the 11th of February, as we were still sojourning at Douasso,
awaiting the arrival of a party of our companions, who remained behind,
I thought I would make an observation, at least approximatively, of the
meridian altitude of the sun, by measuring a shadow at noon. For this
purpose, I stationed myself near a large baobab, at a little distance
from the village, in order to escape notice; but, notwithstanding this
precaution, I had nearly involved myself in a serious scrape. Owing
to the peculiarity of my colour, I was immediately missed from among
my companions; I was sought for and discovered under the tree: as I
was rising to look at the road, I perceived at a little distance some
women, who walked round me to watch me; on seeing me writing they ran
to inform the men, who thought themselves all lost, imagining that
I was a sorcerer, and had bewitched their village; they assembled
in great numbers, and made a great disturbance, desiring my guide to
prohibit me from writing any more. I confess that I was not quite at
ease as to the consequences of this affair. Some persons came to me
and declared, in an authoritative tone, that I must relinquish my
magical operations; they even shook me by the shoulders, and used
threats to me. I had foreseen that, if observed, I should excite
suspicion, and accordingly took the precaution of writing on the
ground where I was making my observation the sacred words, _Bism’
Allah erralmân errahym_ (in the name of the merciful and forgiving
God); but the ignorant Bambaras could not read writing. Fortunately,
I had finished my observation when this unpleasant scene occurred. The
people gathered round me, and asked me what I had been doing: I told
them I had been making an amulet, which was a safeguard against all
sorts of illness, and my guide heartily seconded this evasion. At
length they appeared satisfied; some begged me to write similar
grigris for them; and, had I complied with the requests of all,
I might have continued at work all day. I gave to two Bambaras a
little bit of paper, on which I had written some Arabic characters:
they appeared much pleased with the present, and wrapped it up very
carefully in a bit of dirty rag. On returning to my hut, it was some
time before I entirely recovered from the agitation into which I had
been thrown. Old Kai-mou, my guide, asked me why I had remained so
long under the tree: he told me that I had exposed myself to danger,
for the Bambaras were not well disposed people; that I must be on my
guard with them, and, in future, if I wished to write, I must remain
in my hut; as for himself, he was fully persuaded that I had been
writing grigris. In the evening our company arrived.
On the 12th of February, at six o’clock in the morning, we left the
superstitious inhabitants of Douasso, and proceeded northward over a
tolerably level soil, covered in some places with ferruginous stones
and gravel.
We proceeded four miles and a half in this same direction. As we
advanced the soil became sandy and well cultivated. The country
was generally open, yet there were some cés and nédés, _rhamnus
lotus_, and _nauclea_. We met a numerous caravan from Jenné, laden
with salt. This caravan was composed of about two hundred men, sixty
women, and twenty-five asses. About nine o’clock in the morning we
halted at Sanasso. From Toumané to Jenné wood is so scarce, that
the greater part of the inhabitants burn millet-stubble. Sanasso is
shaded by bombaces and baobabs. Like all Bambara villages in this
region, it is built of bricks baked in the sun. The houses have only
a ground-floor: they are very dirty, and surrounded with walls.
On the 13th of February, at six o’clock in the morning, we proceeded
on our journey, in a direction N.N.E. After advancing six miles,
we crossed an extensive dry marsh. The country was even more open
than that through which we had passed on the preceding day. The
soil, which was level, consisted of grey and very hard sand. About
nine o’clock in the morning, we stopped at Garo, a large village,
containing from eight to nine hundred inhabitants. It is situated
in a beautiful plain, fertile in cotton and millet. Round the huts
tobacco is cultivated. A great market is held at this place.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 14th of February, we proceeded
northward, and journeyed four miles over the same kind of soil as on
the preceding day. About eight o’clock we halted at the village of
Béré, the environs of which are covered with cés and nédés. I
observed a great deal of ferruginous stone on the surface of the
soil. Here are several furnaces for smelting iron. We lodged with
a smelter, who explained to me the process which he employed in his
business. The stones containing particles of iron are first broken
with a large hammer. They are then put into a furnace, having a fire
both above and below. These furnaces are constructed like those in
Fouta-Dhialon, which I have already described. The iron, when melted,
is run into a convenient form, and carried to Jenné to be exchanged
for salt. The forges are constructed like those of Senegal; but the
smiths of Béré have not so many tools. Their bellows are made of
two sheep or kid skins; they have a very small anvil and two large
hammers. They use charcoal, although it is very scarce. The forges are
in a long and narrow building, rudely constructed, having seven doors
opening to the west. At Béré I disposed of some glass trinkets. The
poor Bambaras seemed quite enchanted with the beauty of the things
which I exhibited; I took care, however, to shew them very little.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 15th of February, we set
out in the direction of N.N.E. and proceeded five miles over a soil
similar to that observed on the preceding day. About nine o’clock
we halted at Nibakhasso, a village containing from six to seven
hundred inhabitants, and having a well stocked market. The people
were celebrating a festival, and amusing themselves by singing and
dancing. The old men were assembled round great calabashes filled
with beer, drinking, singing, and smoking. Some musicians helped
to enliven the scene. A very fat dog was killed for the occasion,
and broiled with the skin on. Although it was almost raw, the owner
speedily disposed of it: each person bought a small piece for five or
ten cowries, devoured it greedily, and washed it down with a draught
of beer. The flesh was of a reddish colour, but looked very well;
and I dare say it was much better than that of the camel which I was
afterwards obliged to eat in the desert. Our Mandingoes exhibited
their stock of nuts, and sold some of them to the merry Bambaras. I
also disposed of those which I brought from Tangrera, and which they
bought in preference. There are people in this country who make beer
and sell it retail. I had a great wish to taste it, but my character
of Musulman rendered that impossible. On holidays, these dealers
in beer station themselves at the scene of festivity, and are soon
surrounded by the lovers of this liquor, which they sell in small
calabashes. I observed that they looked very sharply after their
payment, and refused to serve those who had no money. In the evening,
the inhabitants of the place were almost all intoxicated. They brought
out about twelve or fifteen horses, and made them prance about to
the sound of drums. The young people danced all night. Old Kai-mou,
my guide, was so extravagant as to buy a large fowl for supper,
and I gave him salt to season the sauce. We made an excellent meal.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 16th of February, we again
set forth, and proceeded four miles in a N.N.E. direction. The soil
was composed of sand and gravel, and the vegetation consisted of
numerous cés and nédés, some mimosas, wild figs, _rhamnus lotus_,
and bombaces. At eleven o’clock in the morning, we arrived at
Wattouro. We met a caravan of traders returning from Jenné. They
informed us that the war between Ségo and that town interrupted
all communication, and that the Moorish traders were afraid to go to
Sansanding on account of this war. They also told us that colat-nuts
fetched no price at Jenné. The market at Wattouro, which was in the
shade of some bombaces, was well supplied with dried fish, millet,
a little rice, and butcher’s meat.