Departure of the author on his great expedition. — Manners and
customs of his travelling companions, and account of the caravans in
this part of Africa. — The Caura. — Mountains of Lantégué. —
River of Doulinca. — Smelting of iron. — Rio Pongo. — Mountain
of Touma. — Description of Irnanké and its inhabitants. —
Telewel. — Cataract of Cocouo. — Orange trees.
The information which I have just been communicating to the reader
was acquired in M. Castagnet’s absence, and by the help of some
excursions that I took with Mr. Bethman and Mr. Tudsberry in the
neighbourhood of Kakondy. I was endeavouring to arrange the notes
that I had made respecting the Nalous, the Landamas, and the Bagos,
when M.Castagnet returned. He was so good as to turn his attention
immediately to my journey, and gave me much useful advice respecting
my conduct amongst the tribes whom I intended to visit. He furnished
me with all the particulars that had come to his knowledge concerning
their manners, their jealousy, and their distrust of Europeans; and
thinking that this was not sufficient, and that he had not done enough
to oblige me, he sent for some Mandingoes, who deservedly enjoyed
a considerable reputation in the neighbourhood for their probity,
experience, and wealth. He endeavoured to persuade these Mandingoes
to accompany me to Timbuctoo; and he communicated to them the object
of my journey, with many encomiums upon my love of my country; he had
expatiated on the courage displayed by so young a man in braving such
dangers to return to his kindred: then, gradually unfolding the tale
of my Egyptian origin, he endeavoured to interest their feelings in
my behalf, and to secure their assistance. In vain did M. Castagnet
exert his eloquence; they were perfectly indifferent till he promised
to reward them for any thing they should do for me; then indeed,
they showed great zeal to serve me, and protested, every one of them,
that they would treat me like their own son.
They made some remarks upon the difficulties and fatigue which I should
have to endure and which I might not have strength to sustain; but,
upon my reply that I was determined to bear every thing, that I might
return to my country, they fixed a day for our departure. M. Castagnet
gave them the value of an ox in merchandise, and the Mandingoes, as
they had promised, procured a slave to carry my small bundle. These
arrangements were speedily terminated.
On the 19th of April, I took leave of M. Castagnet; and—shall I
confess it?—I shed tears at parting from this generous friend;
my regret at leaving him, however, sincere as it was, could not damp
the joy which I felt in undertaking a journey upon which my mind had
been bent for so many years.
Our caravan consisted of five free Mandingoes, three slaves, my Foulah
porter, my guide, and his wife. All except the last two and myself
carried enormous burdens.
We travelled along the left bank of the river Nuñez, and in two
hours arrived at Mr. Bethman’s factory. I again saw the graves
of Major Peddie and other officers of the same expedition, and was
seized with an involuntary shudder at the thought that the same fate
perhaps awaited me; these sad forebodings vanished however on leaving
the tombs, and gave way to hopes of a happier issue.
At nine in the morning we directed our course S.S.E. Ibrahim my
guide, to whom I had given several articles stopped all of a sudden,
and told me, by means of a negro who could speak English, that he
should be obliged to make a great many presents on the way, and that
he was afraid after all I should never get safe to Fouta-Dhialon,
on account of my fair complexion. This reflection appeared to come
a little too late, but I understood the purport of it, when he added
in good Arabic that I must give him a piece of cloth.
It would have been dangerous to encourage his importunity, so I
pretended that I did not know what he said, and went on in the same
direction without giving him any thing. We found the soil composed
of red earth, and rather stony, but covered with most beautiful
vegetation; the _nédé_[44] in particular is very abundant. We came
to a group of Mandingoes and Foulahs seated under some large trees;
they were quarrelling with one another, and looking out for the
customary presents. There is such a competition in the Kakondy trade,
that the proprietors of each factory send couriers before the caravans
to make presents to the dealers and to draw them to themselves; if
they are numerous, an ox is killed on their arrival at the factory,
and they are supplied with rice all the time the traffic lasts:
when they are about to return a present is made them, and they are
furnished with provision for the journey. So great is the competition
that the merchants will even sell their goods without profit.
As I proceeded, I found the face of the country broken by stony
hillocks, covered with large trees which formed a most picturesque and
varied landscape. The heat was beginning to be painful; our porters
were fatigued, and we halted near a pretty rivulet, with the limpid
and delicious water of which we quenched our thirst. We had then
travelled nearly twelve miles to the east. We kindled a fire; the
negro slaves went in quest of wood, and my guide’s wife prepared
to cook our dinner.
Throughout all Africa, the merchants have adopted the plan of taking
one of their wives with them to cook for the caravan. These unhappy
creatures are loaded with earthen pots, calabashes, salt, &c.; in
short, they are compelled to carry the heaviest burdens, whilst their
husbands walk at their ease.
On our way we joined many Foulahs loaded with salt, who were going
to Fouta; we afterwards met others carrying leather, wax, and rice;
they were going to Kakondy to buy salt. I was very much surprised
to see these poor Foulahs and Mandingoes, who were carrying nearly
a hundred weight on their heads, walk with the greatest rapidity,
and climb the Irnanké mountains with the utmost agility. They carry
a staff in their hands to assist them in supporting their burden,
which is packed in a long basket made of thin and flexible pieces
of wood; this basket is about three feet long, and one foot wide and
deep. When the goods are stowed in it, the lid is put down, and the
whole tightly secured with cords made of the bark of trees. If the
bearers are weary, they rest one end of the basket upon the branch
of a tree, and support the other with their staff; thus loaded,
they travel to the Kankan to sell their salt. We seated ourselves
under the shades of a superb bombax to take our slender repast,
consisting of boiled rice, and pistachio-nuts parched and pounded,
to which they added a little palm-oil. The six free Mandingoes and I
placed ourselves round the calabash containing our dinner, and each
in turn took a handful of rice; the slaves and my porter ate together,
and the women dined alone.
When they halt, as well as on the road, the women have all the labour;
the husband lies down on dry leaves or straw, which his slaves carry
for his accommodation. After this frugal repast, I lay down too for a
few moments. Several of the Foulahs, who had joined us on our road,
gave me some of the fruit of the _nédé_, which is very common in
this part of Africa, and very useful to travellers; it has a great
deal of nourishment in it, and helps to save the rice which is destined
for the purchase of salt.
About half-past two we were again on our way, proceeding to the
S.E. over the same kind of soil as in the morning. After travelling
about seven miles in this direction, we arrived near a deep ravine,
where we halted to pass the night. One of the slaves went to fetch
water, and our cook fell to work.
The Foulahs, who had been told that I was an Arab, shewed a sort
of veneration for me, and were never weary of looking at me and
pitying me: their extreme devotion renders them very charitable:
they came and sat by me, taking my legs upon their knees and rubbing
them to relieve my fatigue. “Thou must suffer sadly,” said they,
“because thou art not used to such a toilsome journey.” One of
them went and fetched some leaves to make me a bed. “Here!” said
he, “this is for thee; for thou canst not sleep upon the stones,
as we do.” Lying upon my bed of leaves, I felt as happy and as much
at my ease as if I had been in my own apartment.
The sky was serene. The heat of the day had been succeeded by a
refreshing breeze, and every thing was exceedingly pleasant.
Several Foulahs gave me a little rice, and I was the more grateful
for it as this was all they had to give. The Mandingoes too were
exceedingly kind and attentive to me, and endeavoured to anticipate
all my wishes.
Prudence required me to retire to the woods to write and arrange my
notes. I observed this precaution throughout the whole of my journey;
for every observation that dropped from those by whom I was surrounded
convinced me how dangerous it would be to rouse their suspicion.
My guide, Ibrahim, though of a touchy disposition, was, upon the
whole very kind to me. He conducted me in safety through the Fouta,
notwithstanding his repeated threats to take me back to Timbo, where
he knew that the almamy would have me arrested.
At five in the morning of the 20th of April, we resumed our journey,
directing our course eastward. We passed near a charming rivulet,
which ran in a southerly direction, between two hills, over a bed of
rocks. After proceeding nine miles we halted, about eleven o’clock,
on the banks of the Tankilita, a rivulet which my companions gave
out to be the Rio Nuñez.
About half past one in the afternoon, we set out and travelled
E.N.E. We passed near the little village of Oréous, which is inhabited
by Foulahs, who rear a considerable number of sheep. This village
is situated on the slope of a high mountain, which is covered with
beautiful vegetation. We proceeded eastward seven miles, over a stony
mountainous tract of country, interspersed with large trees. The
nédé and the bombax grow here abundantly. At sun-set we halted
at the foot of a stony hillock, where there is a very deep ravine,
on the margin of which are some extremely agreeable spots: there we
passed the night. My companions again made me a bed of leaves; but I
declined the accommodation, being fearful of the ill effects of the
coolness and damp, proceeding from this couch of verdure after the
excessive heat of the day. I therefore preferred lying on the stones,
enveloped in my wrapper.
At five o’clock on the morning of the 21st, we again started. We
proceeded seven or eight miles amidst stony hillocks, which rendered
our journey exceedingly fatiguing. At length we passed near a village
inhabited by slaves who are employed in agriculture. All villages
of this kind receive the general denomination of _ourondé_: the
particular name of the one which we passed is Sancoubadialé.
About ten in the morning, we halted near a little spring shaded by
lofty trees, which seemed to rear their majestic heads to the very
clouds. The spring is in a ravine, forty or fifty feet deep, and
surrounded by huge masses of quartz. The neighbourhood is inhabited
by numbers of red apes, who come to the spring to drink. Two of these
animals, which spied me, suddenly stopped and began to bark like
dogs. They advanced upon me and as I was unprovided with any defensive
weapon, I must confess that I felt somewhat alarmed. Fortunately,
however, at this moment I perceived two Mandingoes of our party,
who were coming to fetch some water. At their approach, the apes
ran off to the woods, and we were left in undisturbed possession
of the spring. About noon, we again resumed our course, proceeding
to south east. Our road was less stony than it had been during the
morning, but it was interspersed with hillocks, which obliged us to
make frequent windings. The country was covered with large trees,
the shade of which skreened us from the excessive heat of the day. I
observed many wild fig-trees, and a sort of plum-tree, which the
negroes call _caura_. This tree bears a very good fruit, it is shaped
like a plum. The pellicle is reddish and marked with somewhat lighter
spots. Beneath the pellicle is a pulp, which is very agreeable to the
taste. It is not more than four lines thick, and it envelops a kernel
as large as that of the peach. The negroes are very fond of this fruit.
After proceeding about nine miles, we passed the ruins of a village,
and then continued for a mile and a half in the same direction. The
road became more stony than hitherto; and at three in the afternoon,
we arrived, greatly fatigued, at the village of Daourkiwar, or
Daour-Kiwarat, where we passed the night. This village contains about
four hundred inhabitants, partly Foulahs and partly Mandingoes. It is
situated near a lake, the water of which is very good. This lake is
surrounded by bombaces, plum-trees, and a few _naucleas_. We gathered
and ate the plums, which we found delicious.
On the 22d, at five in the morning, we continued our journey in the
direction of E.S.E. On the slope of a mountain, about three hundred and
fifty, or four hundred feet high, we discerned the pretty Dhialonké
village, called _Lom-bar_, which lay to our right. We next reached
the little hill, on which is situated a second Daourkiwar village. The
soil here is very good and susceptible of much higher cultivation. We
proceeded onwards to some distance, and, having descended a mountain,
we found a little stream, on the bank of which we halted. The stream
flows through an extensive plain, which is surrounded by well wooded
hills. These hills are composed of a red kind of earth, which might be
rendered highly productive by cultivation. The road during the morning
had been exceedingly stony and fatiguing; and, as my sandals galled me,
I was obliged to take them off and walk barefoot; but the stones hurt
my feet still more. I remarked that all the trees and shrubs were
scorched with the heat of the sun. The environs were covered with
reeds, which the natives use in building their huts. Some rice was
boiled in water for our dinner; and after this frugal repast we again
started about half-past twelve o’clock. We ascended the mountain,
proceeding eastward; the path was very stony and nearly blocked up by
the roots of trees. On reaching the level top of the hill we rested
a little, and afterwards pursued our journey to the S.E. The road
now became more agreeable than it had been during the morning. We
found many caura trees, and amused ourselves in gathering the fruit;
and, after travelling six miles, we arrived, at five in the evening,
much fatigued, at Coussotami, a pretty little village, situated on a
hill. Bananas were brought to us; we purchased them for a few glass
beads. Some Foulahs of the village, being informed of my arrival,
came to see me, and, as it was night, they lighted a taper made
of a kind of wax, which is found in great abundance among these
hills. During the night we lay down beneath some trees, upon the
stones which covered the ground.
On the 23d of April, about five in the morning, we left
Coussotami. Proceeding eastward, we passed a dry ravine, surrounded by
trees, forming the most romantic groups. The aspect of the country was
generally pleasing. Advancing to the S.E., we arrived in a beautiful
valley covered with rich pasture, and next reached a deep ravine,
the passage of which we found exceedingly difficult, owing to many
large blocks of granite which we were obliged to climb over. This
ravine brought us to the foot of a mountain, five or six hundred feet
high, which we ascended by a circuitous route, and, after journeying
about four or five miles, we reached its summit. Here, being greatly
fatigued, we made a halt. About one in the afternoon we again started,
and proceeded about four miles in the direction of E.S.E. We now
reached a pretty little stream, whose limpid waters flow over a bed
of granite: its course is from south to N.N.E. The natives call it
Naufomou, and they informed me that it emptied itself into the Rio
Nuñez. We seated ourselves for a short time on the margin of this
stream, and ate some little cakes made of rice-flour, mixed with honey
and allspice, and baked in the sun. I thought them very good. The
Mandingo and Foulah traders always take care to provide themselves
with these cakes for their journeys. We next passed Dougué, a pretty
village, containing three or four hundred inhabitants, Foulahs and
Dhialonkés. It is situated in a plain of grey sand, which might be
rendered very fertile by cultivation. This plain is surrounded by high
hills, which afford fine pasturage. We stopped near a spring to pass
the night. The little village of Mirayé is situated on the declivity
of a high mountain, a mile S.E. of Dougué. Several Foulah shepherds
who were tending their flocks in the neighbourhood came to see us,
and sold us what they call _cagnan_: this is a sort of small loaves
or rolls, made of pistachio-nuts, baked and pounded, then mixed with
maize, and sweetened with honey. These loaves form a portion of their
provision when travelling. I observed a young Foulah who gazed at
me very stedfastly: he invited me to go with him to his camp, where
he said he would give me some milk. As I did not like to go alone,
he requested some of my fellow-travellers to accompany me, which two
of them readily consented to do. The young man walked before to shew
us the way, and he took the trouble to remove some large pieces of
stone which obstructed our path. On reaching his camp, which was not
far from the place of our halt, he spread out a bullock’s hide,
upon which he begged me to seat myself. The camp consisted of five
or six straw huts of a roundish form, and so exceedingly low that it
was necessary to stoop nearly double to get into them. The furniture
consisted of a few mats and sheep-skins, and calabashes to hold milk:
the bed was composed of four stakes fixed in the ground, supporting
long planks of wood, which were covered with a bullock’s hide. He
went to fetch his old mother and sisters to see me. He told them that
I was an Arab, a countryman of the Prophet’s, going to Mecca. They
looked at me with great interest, and, making several gestures,
exclaimed, _La allah il allah, Mahommed rasoul oullahi_ (There is no
god but God, and Mahomet is his prophet) to which I replied according
to the usual form. They seated themselves at a little distance from
me that they might view me at their ease. The young Foulah went to
fetch me some milk in a calabash, which he washed, an extraordinary
ceremony in this part of the world; and he afterwards brought me a
little fried meat: I requested him to eat with me, but, pointing with
his finger to the moon, he said, smiling, and with an air of timidity,
“I fast; it is the Ramadan.”
From this little camp we discerned the village of Mirayé, situated
on the declivity of a high hill, apparently thickly wooded. The
village is inhabited partly by Foulahs and partly by Dhialonkés,
all Mahometans. We took our leave of the hospitable young Foulah,
and returned to our halting place, where we found some of our party
returning from Dougué, whither they had been to purchase rice
for our journey. We slept in some little huts, made of branches of
trees, covered with straw. These huts served to shelter travellers
in rainy weather, for the village of Dougué lies at some distance
from the road.
At four in the morning of the 24th of April, our caravan again moved
forward. We proceeded eastward, along a pleasant road covered with
fine gravel, and soon reached a stony mountain, which we ascended. In
turning another mountain, seven or eight hundred feet high, we almost
made the round of the compass. We then came to a beautiful valley,
watered by a large rivulet, which the natives call Bangala: it runs
from N. to S. We proceeded E.S.E. for the distance of half a mile. We
then ascended a mountain of the same height as that just mentioned,
and exceedingly steep. On reaching the summit we descended the other
side by a very rapid slope, and, at eleven in the morning, we halted
in a fine valley, near a spring surrounded by hillocks. We took
our dinner beneath the shade of a bombax. At one in the afternoon
we proceeded to the S.S.E. still across mountains. We passed near
the huts of some Foulah herdsmen. When we were about four miles
from the place where we had stopped to dine, we were overtaken by a
violent storm. The thunder roared tremendously, and the rain poured
in torrents. We took shelter in the herdsmen’s huts. The storm
lasted nearly two hours and a half. When it was over we journeyed
onward to Dongol, a small slave village,[45] about a mile and a half
from the herdsmen’s huts. It was about three in the afternoon when
we reached this place. The hospitable chief of the village received
us very kindly. He sent me a supper of rice and sour milk, to which
he added a little melted butter. The village contains about three
hundred inhabitants, and it has a mosque of the same form as the huts.
At five in the morning of the 25th of April, we took leave of our
host, to whom my guide, Ibrahim, gave a little salt. Our road lay to
the S.E. We descended the hill on which the village is situated, and
then crossed a very fertile plain. We arrived at a chain of mountains
called, by the natives, Lantégué. It extends from N.E. to S. Each
of these mountains rises perpendicularly to the height of nearly two
hundred fathoms, and they exhibit scarcely any trace of vegetation. We
soon found ourselves surrounded by large blocks of grey granite of
a pyramidal form, resembling the ruins of an ancient castle. Having
penetrated into the gorges of these mountains, which are composed of
beautiful grey granite, we forded the rivulet called the Doulinca,
which flows rapidly over a bed of granite from east to south. The
water was more than knee-deep. We next proceeded to the distance of
a mile over a fertile and very beautiful plain, surrounded by large
rocks of grey granite. Large bamboos grow in the clefts of these
enormous rocks. We again crossed the Doulinca, near a point where it
falls in a cascade, the pleasing murmur of which charms the ear of the
weary traveller. I seated myself for a few moments on the banks of the
rivulet, while the poor negroes were reposing at a little distance, and
I contemplated with admiration the beautiful scene around me. Though
interspersed with mountains this district is fertile in the utmost
degree, and it is watered by numerous streams and rivulets, which keep
the verdure constantly fresh. The mountains are inhabited by Foulah
herdsmen, who live secluded from all other society. The milk of their
cattle, together with the rice which they cultivate, suffices for their
support. I did not see a wild beast among these mountains. The country,
which seems to be favoured by nature, is inhabited by numerous birds,
whose plumage exhibits an endless variety of colours. I saw many
of the same species as those found on the banks of the Senegal. We
resumed our journey, and passed the huts of some Foulahs, who brought
us milk. I bought some for a few glass beads. They looked at me with
manifestations of earnest curiosity, and they said they had never
seen a Moor so white as I was. On leaving them we found ourselves in
a valley formed of two hills of granite. The soil, which consists of
grey sand, is fertile and covered with good pasturage.
We were obliged once more to cross the Doulinca, and, about one in
the afternoon, we halted among some Foulah herdsmen. Their huts were
built beneath the shade of large trees, a most enviable situation in
this part of the world. Since my departure from Kakondy, I had not
seen so beautiful and fertile a tract of country. Instead of rocks,
I now beheld on every side delightful plains, which required only the
labour of the husbandman to produce every thing necessary for human
life. The day had been excessively hot, and about two in the afternoon
we heard thunder in the direction of N.E. The sky was overcast with
black clouds, and the rain fell abundantly. We repaired for shelter
to the huts of the herdsmen, who at first scrupled to admit us. The
thunder rolled in terrific peals; and I expected every moment that
we should be struck by the lightning. The flashes rapidly succeeded
each other, and the sky appeared to be one sheet of flame. We lay
down on the herdsmen’s beds, consisting of round pieces of wood
placed upon posts which raised them a little from the ground, and we
patiently awaited the termination of the storm. When the rain ceased,
we left the huts, and the freshness which now pervaded the atmosphere
added new charms to the surrounding scene. We ate a little rice,
and then proceeded eastward. We crossed a little rivulet which flowed
over a bed of granite. The road was wet and muddy, which rendered our
journey fatiguing. After travelling half a mile to N.E. and another
half mile to the east, we arrived at nightfall at an ourondé, or
slave village, called Lantégué. We were again overtaken by rain on
the road, and I had recourse to my umbrella which, however, did not
entirely protect me. The chief of Lantégué gave us a hut. Before
it there was a beautiful orange-tree, beneath which I sat down on a
sheep-skin. Thunder was again heard. The sky was covered with clouds,
the atmosphere warm and damp, and it continued raining the whole of
the night. The incessant flashes of lightning continually illuminated
our hut, the door of which would not more than half shut.
We stopped at Lantégué the whole of the 26th, for one of the slaves
of our caravan, who was heavily laden, had bad feet. I spent a part of
the day in visiting the village and its inhabitants, who were about
one hundred and fifty in number. Many of them thought me too white
for a Moor.
I observed round the huts some fine bananas, pineapples, cassavas,
yams, and various other useful plants. They were well cultivated. It is
the women’s business to attend to them. The men labour in the rice
fields, &c. The heat was very great during the day, which denoted a
storm in the evening. We were now approaching the rainy season which
in these mountainous districts commences in April, and continues
six consecutive months. In the course of the day a little dispute
arose between my guide Ibrahim and two Mandingoes of his village, who
insisted on having their share of the value of a bullock, which had
been given to them by M. Castagnet, at Kakondy. The two Mandingoes
came to me, and wished me to decide their difference. However,
my decision only made the matter worse, and so irritated my guide,
that he threatened to leave me, which would, of course, have thrown
me into no little embarrassment. At length, a young negro, who had
been to Sierra-Leone and spoke a little English, came to my aid. He
helped to interpret what I said, and thus peace was restored among us.
The merchants spent the remainder of the day in examining their
goods and I amused myself in looking about the neighbourhood of the
village. I saw several furnaces for smelting iron, a metal which
is found in great abundance among the mountains. These furnaces,
which are from five to ten feet high, and eighteen or twenty feet
in circumference, have a chimney at top, and four holes at the base,
in the direction of east, west, north and south. At a little distance
from the village, there are some small streams, which descend from
the mountains and run rapidly over beds of granite. Here I took
the opportunity of bathing, and some of the Mandingoes washed their
clothes.
At half-past five, on the morning of the 27th, we left the village of
Lantégué, to cross the chain of mountains of that name, proceeding
to the S.E. Some of these mountains appeared to be three hundred and
fifty and four hundred fathoms above the elevated plain on which
we were. I observed some very beautiful granite of a whitish-grey
colour. We passed not far from a little village, where the Foulahs
were tending their cattle. As we crossed the chain of mountains, I saw
the poor negroes, with loads on their heads, leaping from precipice to
precipice, and every moment expected to see them fall into the yawning
gulphs beneath. From the depths proceeds a dull murmur, produced by
the numerous springs which rise among the mountains. They fall into
the plain beneath, where they form a sort of river. When we descended
we saw nothing but mountains on every side, though none appeared so
high as those which I had seen in the morning. At the part where we
crossed the chain, it extends in the direction from N.E. to S.S.E. I
did not perceive any snow. I saw some very beautiful black granite,
both in strata three or four feet thick and in blocks. I also saw grey,
white, and pale rose-coloured granite of a very beautiful grain. We
travelled on in an eastern direction until we reached the banks
of the Kakiriman, a little river which runs from north to south,
over a bed of granite. Its current is very rapid and its width may
be about seventy or eighty ordinary paces. I could trace with my eye
the course of this river to the distance of three or four miles and
along that space its breadth did not appear to vary. At the point
where we forded it the water came up to our waists. Having deviated a
little from the course taken by my companions, I was carried to some
distance by the current, and the water came up to my arm-pits. The
negroes, perceiving me, called out, desiring me to make the best of
my way back again. They all exclaimed with one voice, _La allah il
allah, Mahommed rasoul oullahi_, and appeared very much alarmed at my
danger. A little further down, the river becomes deep, and, as I could
not have contended against the current, I should have sunk. At length,
by managing to ascend a little, I gained the left bank in safety,
but my baggage was completely wet. About eleven in the morning we
halted not far from the banks of the river, in a place covered with
hillocks of black sand, on which grew numbers of large bamboos. We
seated ourselves beneath the trees. The poor slaves were dreadfully
fatigued, and though I had no load to carry I was almost as tired
as they. I bought some cagnan, a sort of bread which I have already
described. This was the first food I had tasted during the whole of
the day. Several Foulahs made me little presents. The negroes told me
that the river we had just crossed was the Rio Pongo. Want of rice
obliged us to pack up our baggage and proceed to Pandeya, a little
village inhabited by Foulah herdsmen. On our way we met two negroes,
each of whom had on his head a calabash of _foigné_ (a small kind
of grain), which they would not sell to us. After travelling eleven
miles E.S.E. we reached the village about half past twelve. Our road
had been level and well wooded, but covered with stones. Pandeya is
situated at the foot of a mountain, and contains from one hundred
and fifty to two hundred inhabitants. They all came to see me, and
each brought me a little present of milk. After we had reposed for a
short time in the shade of some large nédés, and refreshed ourselves
with the milk, for which we were indebted to the generosity of the
Foulahs, my guide Ibrahim and his comrades proposed to buy a bullock,
to celebrate the festival of the Ramadan, which happened on the
following day. He asked me, through the medium of the young Foulah,
who spoke English, whether I would pay my share of the price. This
I declined doing, alleging that I had a long journey to perform with
very scanty resources; and Ibrahim said no more on the subject. They
purchased the bullock for four bars of tobacco; about the value of
two gourdes, the joint contribution of about twelve or fifteen of
our party, including the travelling Foulahs.
On the 28th of April, which was the grand festival day, we staid
at Pandeya, and about eight in the morning the merchants all ranged
themselves in a line to repeat the prayer. I took care to be among them
and even affected greater devotion than any of the rest. The prayer
being ended, the bullock was killed. The Mandingoes spent nearly an
hour in equalizing the lots of meat. They each took a little bit of
wood to serve as a measure, and after mingling them all together,
the lots were distributed. Some of the meat was dried and smoked,
that it might keep for the journey; but a considerable portion was
immediately boiled with rice for the festival.
I received numerous visits from Foulahs, who brought me their usual
presents of milk and rice, which were all they had to give. The
festival was celebrated with considerable gaiety. The Mandingoes,
in particular, indulged in tumultuous manifestations of joy. They
fired several discharges of musketry, and afterwards all the negroes
assembled round my guide’s hut and sang songs in his praise. He was,
as I have already mentioned, the chief of the caravan, and it was he
who furnished the gunpowder for the rejoicings. These people have a
bad habit of putting too great a charge of powder into their muskets,
and on this occasion one of them burst in the hands of a negro;
but fortunately, the poor fellow was not hurt. About eleven in the
forenoon Ibrahim, accompanied by the two Mandingoes who were engaged
in the dispute to which I have already alluded, came to invite me to
partake of their dinner, and they again requested me to forget what had
passed. I accepted the invitation. On entering Ibrahim’s hut, I saw a
large calabash full of boiled rice, upon which was laid a considerable
quantity of the beef. We sat down and each helped himself with his
hands, according to the negro custom. When the rice was finished,
Ibrahim distributed the meat. I observed that the Mandingoes ate an
unusual quantity that day. Eating, indeed, seems to be the highest
pleasure they are capable of enjoying. During the rest of the day
they were very merry, and they exchanged the bullock’s hide for
some rice, which we ate during our journey.
On the 29th of April, the remainder of the meat which had been smoked
all night was put into leather bags, and we resumed our journey at
six in the morning. Opposite to the village, about half a mile to
the north, there was a small chain of mountains, with level summits;
and at each extremity of the chain one rises to a considerable height
above the rest, like the turret of an ancient castle. These mountains
have no vegetation. We proceeded for a mile eastward, upon rocks level
with the surface of the ground, of a reddish colour and porous nature,
and we next ascended a mountain composed of blocks of beautiful black
granite, among which grew various large trees particularly the nédé,
which abounds throughout all this part of the country. The road was
very bad; we had to walk upon black calcined stones, which had the
appearance of being of volcanic origin. After crossing several little
streams that flow over beds of rock, we came to a mountain about five
or six hundred ordinary paces high. It is called by the natives Touma,
and it separates the country of Irnanké from the Fouta-Dhialon. We
rested for a short time on its summit. My companions assured me that
the road thence to Cambaya, my guide’s village, would be better than
the preceding part of our journey. I observed in this neighbourhood
some very fine indigo, and some bombaces which rivalled in size the
enormous baobabs on the banks of the Senegal.
The country of Irnanké lies to the west of the Fouta, and to the
east of Kakondy. It has on the north the negroes who inhabit the
neighbourhood of Casamance; and on the south the Timannee negroes,
who occupy a tract of country not far from Sierra-Leone. Irnanké is
studded with lofty mountains, and inhabited by pastoral Foulahs. They
possess fine flocks, which are their principal wealth. The
complexion of these Foulahs is a lightish chesnut colour; they have
good countenances, high foreheads, aquiline noses, and thin lips, and
their heads are somewhat of an oval shape. The only point in which they
resemble the Mandingoes is their curly hair. They hold themselves very
upright, and walk with an air of dignity; for they think themselves
far superior to the other negro tribes. Their dress, like that of
the Mandingoes, is exceedingly simple; it consists of a coussabe,
or shirt, of white cloth, of their own manufacture, and a pair of
trowsers. The trowsers are made of coarse cloth; they are very wide,
and confined round the waist by means of a buckle; they reach about
half-way down the leg, where they are left loose. A cap of the same
material completes the costume. When these negroes travel, they are
armed with bows and poisoned arrows, and they also carry lances. They
rub their bodies all over with butter, and they put a great deal upon
their heads, which occasions a very disagreeable smell. The women take
remarkable pains in dressing their heads. They plait their hair and
adorn it with various glass trinkets. They wear amber necklaces, and
their whole appearance is animated and pleasing. In these mountains
there are many Dhialonkés, the ancient possessors of the country
of Fouta-Dhialon, which was conquered long ago by the Foulahs, who
compelled part of the population to embrace Mahometanism. Those who
refused to forsake idolatry became tributaries to the almamy, or chief,
of Irnanké. They pay their tribute in cattle. These people are very
mild and hospitable to the strangers who are continually travelling
through their mountainous country. They have a particular dialect,
which the Foulahs do not understand.
After resting for a short time, we continued our journey eastward. The
road was interspersed with small masses of rock, which incommoded
me exceedingly; for, as I could not walk with the sandals of the
country, I was obliged to go barefoot. We passed Courgin, a little
village containing a population of about one hundred and fifty or
two hundred. The masses of rock were succeeded by stones, apparently
volcanic. Proceeding nine miles further, to the east, we arrived at
three in the afternoon at Comi-Sourignan, a pretty village, situated
on a hill, and containing about one hundred and fifty inhabitants. The
aspect of the surrounding country was beautiful; it was interspersed
with fine hills, covered with brilliant verdure. The soil, which is
of a yellow colour, is very productive. The village, enclosed by a
quick-set hedge, is very clean. The huts are surrounded by gardens,
containing plantations of pistachio-nuts, cassavas, caribbee cabbages,
and other things. These gardens, which are cultivated by women and
children, are kept in very good order, and the little paths leading to
the huts are cleanly swept. The chief, in whose presence we said the
prayer, invited Ibrahim and me to his hut, where he made us partake
of his dinner, consisting of boiled rice with a little sour milk. We
seated ourselves on a mat, near a little fire; for fires are always
kept burning here, on account of the humidity of the climate. When
our repast was ended, the wife of the chief came and sat down beside
us. She listened in silence to our conversation: we were speaking
of the christians, who are always objects of contempt among these
people. The wife of the chief kindly asked me to take a little milk,
and then she went to gather some figs and bananas, and put them into
a clean calabash, which she gave to me and my guide. This woman
had a pleasing countenance, and her dress, which was very clean,
consisted of two breadths of cotton cloth of the manufacture of the
country. She had not the offensive smell of the women of the roving
Foulahs of Irnanké. The hut was large and in good order; the floor
was adorned with handsome designs, made of earth. We passed the night
in this pretty village.
At half-past five, on the morning of the 30th of April, we took leave
of our kind hosts, and proceeded to the S.E., crossing an extensive
plain, apparently susceptible of high cultivation. In descending,
we turned an elevated plain, situated in the province of Timbi. The
plain in this part is covered with red rocks, level with the ground;
the country is, generally, very open. We saw several hillocks within
the distance of seven or eight miles round us. We met a Bondou
negro, who said that he had come from Boulibané, the capital of the
country, and was going on a trading expedition to Kakondy: he had
nothing with him but gold. I was very much astonished that this man
should undertake so long and difficult a journey on foot, when he was
within reach of our establishments at Bakel, which are provided with
all sorts of merchandise. We proceeded eastward, crossing a pretty
valley, situated between two hills, and containing three villages;
the largest is Telewel: its population is, at most, five hundred. I was
overtaken by a Foulah, accompanied by one of his wives, carrying on her
head a calabash full of milk, which he begged me to accept. Ibrahim,
my guide, having stopped for a short time, had informed this Foulah
that I was an Arab from the neighbourhood of Mecca, and related to
him my adventure at Alexandria. The zealous disciple of the prophet
thought that he was performing a meritorious action in the eye of God
by giving me a little milk. When he left us he extended his hand to
me, and wished me a speedy return to my country. The road now became
somewhat more stony, and we halted for a short time beneath the shade
of some trees to wait for our companions. Several women brought us
bananas and figs, fourteen of which I purchased for three glass beads.
We pursued our journey across a plain, composed of a yellow fertile
kind of earth, and we next arrived at Bouma, a village situated near
a pretty little stream; the silvery waters flow over a bed of granite
in a S.E. direction. This stream falls in cascades, the murmur of
which is heard at a considerable distance. After passing this place,
we came to enormous rocks of granite level with the ground; our road
was interspersed with those little hillocks with which all this
part of the country is covered. When we approached Bouma-Filasso,
a village on the declivity of a mountain, I saw a great deal of
indigo growing spontaneously; I also saw some cotton plantations. The
country is clothed with superb vegetation, and has a very beautiful
aspect. I remarked several spots recently cleared for planting. We
descended a hill, at the foot of which runs the river Cocoulo,
which at this part is about forty or forty-five paces wide; it flows
rapidly over a bed of granite from N.N.E. to S.W.: where we forded it,
the water was more than knee-deep. In several places its bed is dry,
and it is necessary to walk over large masses of granite covered with
mud, which renders the passage slippery and dangerous. At a little
distance from this place it falls over a precipice to the depth of
sixty feet, making a terrific noise. I stopped for a short time to
contemplate this cataract. The Cocoulo runs among high mountains
covered with large trees, among which the native plum-tree is very
abundant. After crossing the river, we proceeded S.S.E.; we passed
near Marca, a small village, containing from two hundred and fifty to
three hundred inhabitants, and situated on a very fertile soil. About
three o’clock we passed Dayeb. The road was stony from this place to
Tin-foulasso, a village surrounded by cotton plantations, in a plain of
grey fertile sand. At five in the afternoon we halted, much fatigued,
at Gnéré-temilé, having travelled twelve miles in the course of
the day. During our halt a violent storm arose. As I was an object
of general curiosity, the inhabitants came out in crowds to look at
me; some brought me little presents of milk and smoked meat. Many of
these poor creatures had ulcers in different parts of their bodies:
I became their physician; and I gave them some caustics (nitrate
of silver) and lint. They evinced their gratitude by sending me a
good supper. Ibrahim, fearing that I should consume all my stock of
medicaments, strongly advised me not to give them any more, alleging
as a reason for this uncharitableness, that they might take me for
a christian.
At six o’clock in the morning of the 1st of May, we left the village
of Gnéré-temilé, the population of which is about two hundred and
fifty. The rain of the preceding evening purified the atmosphere
and added new charms to the surrounding scenery. We journeyed on
cheerfully to E.S.E. I saw an ourondé, or slave village, surrounded
by good plantations of bananas, cotton, cassavas, and yams. We passed
Maraca, after which we found ourselves in a sandy plain, containing
several small slave villages, and sat down beneath a tree to wait
for some of our party, who were lingering behind.
The negroes of the village of Bourwel brought us some delicious
oranges: after eating them we pursued our journey along the side of a
deep valley adorned with large trees. Having descended a rapid slope,
we came to very fertile land. About two in the afternoon we halted
at Popoco, situated in the plain, having travelled eight miles since
morning.