Parting of The Widow and her child.
We at length emerge on much firmer ground.
River Hopkins.
Mount Nicholson.
Cockajemmy salt lakes.
Natives ill disposed.
Singular weapon.
Treacherous concealment of a native.
Contents of a native's basket and store.
A tribe comes forward.
Fine country for colonisation.
Hollows in the downs.
Snakes numerous.
Native females.
Cattle tracks.
Ascend Mount Cole.
Enter on a granite country.
Many rivulets.
Mammeloid hills.
Lava, the surface rock.
Snakes eaten by the natives.
Ascend Mount Byng.
Rich grass.
Expedition pass.
Excursion towards Port Phillip.
Discover and cross the river Barnard.
Emus numerous and tame.
The river Campaspe.
Effects of a storm in the woods.
Ascend Mount Macedon.
Port Phillip dimly seen from it.
Return to the camp.
Continue our homeward journey.
Waterfall of Cobaw.
Singular country on the Barnard.
Cross the Campaspe.
An English razor found.
Ascend Mount Campbell.
Native beverage.
Valley of the Deegay.
Natives exchange baskets for axes.
They linger about our camp.
Effect of fireworks, etc.
Arrival at, and passage of, the Goulburn.
Fish caught.
PARTING OF THE WIDOW AND HER CHILD.
September 19.
When about to set out I observed that The Widow Turandurey, who was to
remain with Mr. Stapylton's party and the carts, was marked with white
round the eyes (the natives' fashion of mourning) and that the face of
her child Ballandella was whitened also. This poor woman who had
cheerfully carried the child on her back when we offered to carry both on
the carts, and who was as careful and affectionate as any mother could
be, had at length determined to entrust to me the care of this infant. I
was gratified with such a proof of the mother's confidence in us, but I
should have been less willing to take charge of her child had I not been
aware of the wretched state of slavery to which the natives females are
doomed. I felt additional interest in this poor child from the
circumstance of her having suffered so much by the accident that befel
her while with our party, and which had not prevented her from now
preferring our mode of living so much that I believe the mother at length
despaired of being ever able to initiate her thoroughly in the mysteries
of killing and eating snakes, lizards, rats, and similar food. The widow
had been long enough with us to be sensible how much more her sex was
respected by civilised men than savages, and, as I conceived, it was with
such sentiments that she committed her child to my charge, under the
immediate care however of Piper's gin.
WE AT LENGTH EMERGE ON MUCH FIRMER GROUND.
For several miles we met with soft ground at the low connecting parts of
hills, but we at length gained the woody ridge so likely, as I had hoped,
to favour our progress. Its turnings were intricate but, by one or two
rivulets falling to my left and then by others falling to the right, I
learnt how to keep on the intermediate ground until at length, after a
journey of nine miles, we emerged from the woods on a firm open surface
and an extensive prospect was seen before us. Leaving the party to encamp
I rode to a round forest hill some miles to the eastward and obtained a
comprehensive view of the Grampians, and also of the country to the
northward which now appeared to be chiefly open; and I had little doubt
that we should find it more favourable for travelling upon. Eastward of
the forest hill the ground sank into a deep valley which turned round to
the south-east after receiving the drainage from some hollows in the open
country north of it.
RIVER HOPKINS.
This ravine received also the waters from the woody ridge now south of
us, where the numerous deep valleys were irrigated by streams arising in
swamps; the whole probably forming the head of some more important stream
flowing to the coast and which I here named the river Hopkins. This
eminence, which I distinguished as Mount Stavely, consisted apparently of
decomposed clay-stone or felspar, having a tendency to divide naturally
into regular prisms. A very beautiful and singular-looking shrub appeared
on the hills we crossed this day, and also on the open ground where
indeed it was most abundant. It was a species of acacia, the leaves
adhering edgeways to thorny branches; many of these shrubs were in
blossom, the flowers being yellow and as large and round as marbles, and
those growing very thickly, they gave to the branches the appearance of
garlands or festoons, the effect altogether being extremely graceful and
singular. We found also a beautiful new species of acacia looking like a
broad-leaved variety of A. armata. The branches were singularly protected
by short spiny forks which proved to be the hardened permanent stipules.*
(*Footnote. A. furcifera, Lindley manuscripts; stipulis spinescentibus
persistentibus, phyllodiis obliquis ovato-oblongis mucronatis uninerviis
hinc venosis glabris, ramis hirsutis, capitulis solitariis foliis
brevioribus.)
With this occurred another species with hard stiff scymetar-shaped leaves
and a profusion of balls of browner yellow flowers which had been
previously observed (on June 22) in a more vigorous condition.* By
observations from this hill I made the height of Mount William about
4,500 feet above the sea.
(*Footnote. This was most nearly related to A. hispidula, but the leaves
were quite smooth and much smaller. A. acinacea, Lindley manuscripts;
glaberrima; ramulis alato-angulatis rigidis, phyllodiis brevibus
acinaciformibus mucronatis 1-nerviis et enerviis: margine superiore infra
medium glanduloso, capitulis geminis axillaribus, pedunculis phyllodiorum
longitudine.)
September 20.
Our wheels now rolled lightly over fine grassy downs and our faces were
turned towards distant home. Before us arose a low, thinly-wooded hill,
which at first bounded our view towards the north, and afterwards proved
to be the feature connecting the low woody ridge near our last camp with
the hills still further to the northward. On reaching the summit I
perceived that a considerable extent of open country intervened, being
watered in the lower parts by several lakes.
MOUNT NICHOLSON. COCKAJEMMY SALT LAKES.
Descending northward along an offset of the same hills which had led us
in that direction and which I now named Mount Nicholson, I observed that
the lakes occurred at intervals in a valley apparently falling from the
westward in which no stream appeared, although it was shut in by well
escarped rocky banks. We encamped after a journey of ten miles at a point
where another valley from the north joined the above, and I was somewhat
surprised to find after encamping that the water in the adjacent lakes
was extremely salt. No connection existed by means of any channel between
them although they formed together a chain of lagoons in the bed of a
deep and well defined valley. On the contrary the soil was particularly
solid and firm between them, and the margin of the most eastern of these
lakes was separated by a high bank from the bed of another valley where a
running stream of pure water flowed over a broad and swampy bed fifteen
feet higher than the adjacent valley containing the stagnant salt lakes.
The rock enclosing these singular valleys was basalt, and from these
peculiarities, considered with reference to the ancient volcano and the
dip of a mountain strata to the north-west, it was evident that some
upheaving or subsidence had materially altered the levels of the original
surface.
I could find no brine-springs in or about these lakes, and as it was
evident that a stream had once washed the bed of the ravine now occupied
by them, I may leave the solution of the problem to geologists.
(*Footnote. Having submitted specimens of the water from these and other
salt lakes of the interior to my friend Professor Faraday, I have been
favoured with the following particulars respecting their contents: "All
of them are solutions of common salt much surpassing the ocean or even
the Mediterranean in the quantity of salt dissolved. Besides the common
salt there are present (in comparatively small quantity) portions of
sulphates and muriates of lime and magnesia: the waters are neutral and
except in strength very much resemble those of the ocean. That labelled
Greenhill Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1049.4 and three
measured ounces gave on evaporation 97 grains of dry salts. That labelled
Mitre Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1038.6, and three measured
ounces of it yielded 77 grains of dry saline matter. The water labelled
Cockajemmy Lake Camp 20th September had a specific gravity of 1055.3 and
the amount of dry salts from three measured ounces was 113 grains.")
NATIVES ILL DISPOSED.
As we proceeded over the open ground before we reached the spot where we
finally encamped several natives appeared at a great distance in a valley
eastward of Mount Nicholson, and Piper went towards them supported by
Brown whom I sent after him on horseback. They proved to be three or four
gins only, but Piper continued to pursue them to the top of a hill, when
a number of men armed with spears suddenly started from behind trees and
were running furiously towards Piper when Brown rode up. On presenting
his pistol they came to a full stop, thereby showing that they had some
idea of firearms, although they refused to answer Piper's questions or to
remain longer. In the evening, four of them approaching our camp, Piper
went forward with Burnett to meet them. They advanced to the tents
apparently without fear, and I obtained from them the names of various
localities. On being questioned respecting Cadong, they told us that all
these waters ran into it, and pointed to the south-east, saying that I
should by-and-bye see it. When I found we could obtain no more
information I presented the most intelligent of them with a tomahawk, on
which they went slowly away, repeatedly turning round towards us and
saying something which, according to Piper, had reference to their tribe
coming again and dancing a corrobory, a proposal these savage tribes
often make and which the traveller who knows them well will think it
better to discourage.
SINGULAR WEAPON.
These men carried a singular kind of malga, of a construction different
from any Piper had ever seen. The malga is a weapon usually made in the
form of Figure 2, but that with which these natives were provided
somewhat resembled a pick-axe with one half broken off, and was of the
form of Figure 1, being made so as to be thickest at the angle. The blow
of such a formidable weapon could not be easily parried from the
uncertainty whether it would be aimed with the thick heavy corner or the
sharp point. All the weapons of this singular race are peculiar and this
one was not the least remarkable.
TREACHEROUS CONCEALMENT OF A NATIVE.
At dusk while Woods was looking after the cattle near the camp he
surprised a native concealed behind a small bush, who did not make his
escape until Woods was within two yards of him.
CONTENTS OF A NATIVE'S BASKET AND STORE.
How many more had been about we could not ascertain, but next morning we
found near the spot one of the bags usually carried by gins and
containing the following samples of their daily food: three snakes; three
rats; about 2 pounds of small fish, like white bait; crayfish; and a
quantity of the small root of the cichoraceous plant tao, usually found
growing on the plains with a bright yellow flower. There were also in the
bag various bodkins and colouring stones, and two mogos or stone hatchets
(Figure 5). It seemed that our civility had as usual inspired these
savages with a desire to beat our brains out while asleep, and we were
thankful that in effecting their cowardly designs they had been once more
unsuccessful.
A TRIBE COMES FORWARD.
September 21.
Early in the morning a tribe of about forty were seen advancing toward
our camp preceded by the four men who had been previously there. Having
determined that they should not approach us again, I made Piper advance
to them and inquire what they wanted last night behind the bush, pointing
at the same time to the spot. They returned no answer to this question,
but continued to come forward until I ordered a burning bush to be waved
at them and, when they came to a stand without answering Piper's
question, I ordered a party of our men to charge them, whereupon they all
scampered off. We saw them upon our encamping ground after we had
proceeded about two miles, but they did not attempt to follow us. Whether
they would find a letter which I had buried there for Mr. Stapylton or
not, we could only hope to discover after that gentleman's return to the
colony. It was understood between us that, where a cross was cut in the
turf where my tent had stood, he would find a note under the centre of
the cross. This I buried by merely pushing a stick into the earth and
dropping into the hole thus made the note twisted up like a cigar. The
letter was written chiefly to caution him about these natives. Basalt
appeared in the sides of the ravine which contained the salt lakes and in
equal abundance and of the same quality in that which enclosed the living
stream where it lay in blocks forming small cliffs. Finding at length a
favourable place for crossing this stream, we traversed the ravine and
resumed our direct course towards the southern extremity of a distant
range named Mammala by the natives, the bluff head previously seen from
Mount Abrupt (see above).
FINE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION.
We now travelled over a country quite open, slightly undulating, and well
covered with grass. To the westward the noble outline of the Grampians
terminated a view extending over vast plains fringed with forests and
embellished with lakes. To the northward appeared other more
accessible-looking hills, some being slightly wooded, some green and
quite clear to their summits, long grassy vales and ridges intervening:
while to the eastward the open plain extended as far as the eye could
reach. Our way lay between distant ranges which in that direction mingled
with the clouds. Thus I had both the low country, which was without
timber, and the well wooded hills within reach, and might choose either
for our route, according to the state of the ground, weather, etc.
Certainly a land more favourable for colonisation could not be found.
Flocks might be turned out upon its hills, or the plough at once set to
work in the plains. No primeval forests required to be first rooted out,
although there was enough of wood for all purposes of utility and as much
also for embellishment as even a painter could wish.
HOLLOWS IN THE DOWNS.
One feature peculiar to that country appeared on these open downs: it
consisted of hollows which, being usually surrounded by a line of yarra
gumtrees or whitebark eucalyptus, seemed at a distance to contain lakes,
but instead of water I found only blocks of vesicular trap, consisting
apparently of granular felspar, and hornblende rock also appeared in the
banks enclosing them. Some of these hollows were of a winding character,
as if they were the remains of ancient watercourses; but if ever currents
flowed there the surface must have undergone considerable alteration
since, for the downs where these hollows appeared were elevated at least
900 feet above the sea and surrounded on all sides by lower ground. There
was an appearance of moisture among the rocks in some of these
depressions; and whether by digging a few feet permanent wells might be
made may be a question worth attention when colonisation extends to that
country. We found on other parts of this open ground large blocks
composed of irregular concretions of ironstone, covered with a thin
coating of compact brown haematite. The purple-ringed Anguillaria dioica,
first seen on Pyramid Hill, again appeared here; and in many places the
ground was quite yellow with the flowers of the cichoraceous plant tao
whose root, small as it is, constitutes the food of the native women and
children. The cattle are very fond of the leaves of this plant and seemed
to thrive upon it. We also found a new bulbine with a delicate yellow
flower being perfectly distinct from both the species described by
Brown.*
(*Footnote. This has been planted with the others in the Horticultural
Gardens at Chiswick and was the first to flower there, a head having been
sent to me on the 8th May last by Dr. Lindley who describes it thus:
Bulbine suavis; radice fasciculata, foliis longissimis attenuatis
semiteretibus basi canaliculatis glaucis, racemo erecto multifloro,
petalis oblongis subundulatis sepalis duplo latioribus, staminibus
ascendentibus, filamentis apice stuposis petalinis patentibus sepalinis
erectis apice incurvis brevioribus.)
SNAKES NUMEROUS.
The genial warmth of spring had begun to show its influence on these
plants and also brought the snakes from their holes, for on this day in
particular it was ascertained that twenty-two had been killed by the
party. These were all of that species not venomous I believe which the
natives eat. We encamped near a small clump of trees for the sake of
firewood.
September 22.
This day's journey lay chiefly across open downs with wooded hills
occasionally to the left. On the southward these downs extended to the
horizon: and several isolated hills at great distances, apparently of
trap, presented an outline like the volcanic Mount Napier. All the
various small rivulets we traversed in our line of route seemed to flow
in that direction. Having crossed three of these we encamped on the right
bank of the fourth. The hills on our left were of granite and as
different as possible in appearance from the mountains to the westward
which were all of red sandstone. In the afternoon there was a
thunderstorm but the sky became again perfectly serene in the evening.
September 23.
This morning a thick fog hung over us; but having well reconnoitred the
country beyond I knew that I might travel in a straight line over open
ground for several miles. When the fog arose some finely wooded hills
appeared on our right; but after advancing seven miles on good firm earth
we again came upon very soft ground which obliged us to turn and wind and
pick our way wherever the surface seemed most likely to bear us.
NATIVE FEMALES.
The fog was succeeded by a fine warm day, and as we proceeded we saw two
gins and their children at work separately on a swampy meadow; and, quick
as the sight of these natives is, we had travelled long within view
before they observed us. They were spread over the field much in the
manner in which emus and kangaroos feed on plains, and we observed them
digging in the ground for roots. All carried bags and when Piper went
towards them they ran with great speed across the vast open plains to the
southward.
CATTLE TRACKS.
This day we perceived the fresh track of several bullocks, a very
extraordinary circumstance in that situation. The beautiful
yellow-wreathed acacia was not to be seen after we quitted the open
country. The ground was becoming almost hopelessly soft, when we reached
a small run of water from the hills and, by keeping along its bank, we
had the good fortune to reach an extremity of the range where the solid
granite was as welcome to our feet as a dry beach is to shipwrecked
seamen.
ASCEND MOUNT COLE.
We had at length arrived under Mammala, the bluff hill which had been my
landmark from the time I left Mr. Stapylton. I found this was the
southern extremity of a lofty range which I lost no time in ascending
after I had fixed on a spot for the camp. It consisted of huge blocks of
granite,* and was crowned with such lofty timber that I could only catch
occasional peeps of the surrounding country: nevertheless I obtained, by
moving about among the trees with my pocket sextant, almost all the
angles I wanted; and I thus connected the survey of the region I was
leaving with that I was about to enter. My first view over this eastern
country was extensive, and when I at length descended to a projecting
rock I found the prospect extremely promising, the land being variegated
with open plains and strips of forest, and studded with smooth green
hills of the most beautiful forms. In the extreme distance a range much
resembling that on which I stood declined at its southern extremity in
the same manner as this did, and thus left me a passage precisely in the
most direct line of route homewards.
(*Footnote. Consisting of pink felspar, white quartz and silvery mica.)
ENTER ON A GRANITE COUNTRY.
The carts had still however to cross the range at which we had arrived
and which, as I perceived here, not only extended southward but also
broke into bold ravines on the eastern side, being connected with some
noble hills, or rather mountains, all grassy to their summits, thinly
wooded and consisting wholly of granite. They resembled very much some
hills of the lower Pyrenees in Spain, only that they were more grassy and
less acclivitous, and I named this hill Mount Cole. To the southward the
sea-haze dimmed the horizon: but I perceived the eastern margin of a
large piece of water bearing south-south-east, and which I supposed might
be Cadong. It was sheltered on the south-east by elevated ground
apparently very distant, but no high range appeared between us and that
inlet of the sea. On the contrary the heights extending southward from
this summit, being connected with the highest and most southern hills
visible from it, seemed to be the only high land or separation of the
waters falling north and south. With such a country before us I bade
adieu to swamps and returned well pleased to the camp, being guided to it
only by the gushing torrent, for I had remained on the hill as long as
daylight lasted.
MANY RIVULETS.
September 24.
The morning was rainy and our way having to be traced up the ravines and
round the hills was very tortuous for the first three miles. We then
reached the dividing part of the range and descended immediately after
into valleys of a less intricate character. Having passed over the swampy
bed of a rivulet flowing southward, and having also crossed several fine
bold ridges with good streams between them, we at length encamped near a
round hill which, being clear on the summit, was therefore a favourable
station for the theodolite. This hill also consisted of granite and
commanded an open and extensive view over the country to the eastward.
September 25.
One bold range of forest land appeared before us and after crossing it we
passed over several rivulets falling northward, then over a ridge of
trappean conglomerate with embedded quartz pebbles, and descended into a
valley of the finest description. Grassy hills clear of timber appeared
beyond a stream also flowing northward. These hills consisted of old
vesicular lava. We next entered a forest of very large trees of ironbark
eucalyptus, and we finally encamped in a grassy valley in the midst of
this forest.
September 26.
We first crossed more hills of the trappean conglomerate on which grew
ironbark eucalypti and box. The rock consisted of a base of compact
felspar with embedded grains of quartz, giving to some parts the
character of conglomerate, and there were also embedded crystals of
common felspar. By diverging a little to the right we entered upon an
open tract of the most favourable aspect, stretching away to the
south-west among similar hills until they were lost in the extreme
distance. The whole surface was green as an emerald and on our right for
some miles ran a fine rivulet between steep grassy banks and over a bed
of trap-rock.
MAMMELOID HILLS.
At length this stream was joined by two others coming through similar
grassy valleys from the south; and when we approached two lofty smooth
round hills, green to their summits, the united streams flowed in an open
dell which our carts rolled through without meeting any impediment. I
ascended the most western of these hills as it was a point which I had
observed from various distant stations, and I enjoyed such a charming
view eastward from the summit as can but seldom fall to the lot of the
explorers of new countries. The surface presented the forms of pristine
beauty clothed in the hues of spring; and the shining verdure of these
smooth and symmetrical hills was relieved by the darker hues of the wood
with which they were interlaced; which exhibited every variety of tint,
from a dark brown in the foreground to a light blue in extreme distance.
LAVA, THE SURFACE ROCK.
The hills consisted entirely of lava and I named them from their peculiar
shape the Mammeloid hills, and the station on which I stood Mount
Greenock. In travelling through this Eden no road was necessary, nor any
ingenuity in conducting wheel-carriages wherever we chose. The beautiful
little terrestrial orchidaceous plants Caladenia dilatata and Diuris
aurea were already in full bloom; and we also found on the plains this
day a most curious little bush resembling a heath in foliage, but with
solitary polypetalous flowers resembling those of Sollya.* When we had
completed fourteen miles we encamped on the edge of an open plain and
near a small rivulet, the opposite bank consisting of grassy forest land.
(*Footnote. This has been ascertained to be a new species of the genus
Campylanthera of Hooker, or Pronaya of Baron Hugel, of which two species
were found by the latter botanist and the late Mr. Frazer at Swan River.
Campylanthera ericoides, Lindley manuscripts; erecta, fruticosa, glabra,
foliis oblongo-cuneatis mucronatis margine revolutis, floribus solitariis
terminalibus erectis, antheris subrotundis.)
ABORIGINAL IMITATIONS.
September 27.
I was surprised to hear the voice of a Scotchwoman in the camp this
morning. The peculiar accent and rapid utterance could not be mistaken as
I thought, and I called to inquire who the stranger was, when I
ascertained that it was only Tommy Came-last who was imitating a Scotch
female who, as I then learnt, was at Portland Bay and had been very kind
to Tommy. The imitation was ridiculously true through all the modulations
of that peculiar accent although, strange to say, without the
pronunciation of a single intelligible word. The talent of the aborigines
for imitation seems a peculiar trait in their character. I was informed
that The Widow could also amuse the men occasionally by enacting their
leader, taking angles, drawing from nature, etc.
While the party went forward over the open plains with Mr. Stapylton I
ascended a smooth round hill, distant about a mile to the southward of
our camp, from which I could with ease continue my survey by means of
hills on all sides, the highest of them being to the southward. I could
trace the rivulets flowing northward into one or two principal channels,
near several masses of mountain: these channels and ranges being probably
connected with those crossed by us on our route from the Murray. In these
bare hills and on the open grassy plains, old vesicular lava abounded;
small loose elongated fragments lay on the round hills, having a red
scorified appearance and being also so cellular as to be nearly as light
as pumice. We this day crossed several fine running streams and forests
of box and bluegum growing on ridges of trappean conglomerate. At length
we entered on a very level and extensive flat, exceedingly green and
resembling an English park. It was bounded on the east by a small river
flowing to the north-west (probably the Loddon) and abrupt but grassy
slopes arose beyond its right bank. After crossing this stream we
encamped, having travelled nearly fifteen miles in one straight line
bearing 60 1/2 degrees east of north. This tract was rather of a
different character from that of the fine country of which we had
previously seen so much, and we saw for the first time the Discaria
australis, a remarkable green leafless spiny bush and resembling in a
most striking manner the Colletias of Chili. Sheltered on every side by
woods or higher ground, the spring seemed more advanced there than
elsewhere, and our hard wrought cattle well deserved to be the first to
browse on that verdant plain. The stream in its course downwards vanished
amongst grassy hills to water a country apparently of the most
interesting and valuable character.
September 28.
The steep banks beyond the river consisted of clay-slate having under it
a conglomerate containing fragments of quartz cemented by compact
haematite.
SNAKES EATEN BY THE NATIVES.
The day was hot and we killed several large snakes of the species eaten
by the natives. I observed that our guides looked at the colour of the
belly when in any doubt about the sort they preferred; these were
white-bellied, whereas the belly of a very fierce one with a large head,
of which Piper and the others seemed much afraid, was yellow. On cutting
this snake open two young quails were found within: one of them not being
quite dead. The country we crossed during the early part of the day was
at least as fine as that we had left. We passed alternately through
strips of forest and over open flats well watered, the streams flowing
southward; and at nine miles we crossed a large stream also flowing in
that direction: all these being evidently tributaries to that on which we
had been encamped. Beyond the greater stream, where we last crossed it,
the country presented more of the mountain character, but good strong
grass grew among the trees, which consisted of box and lofty bluegum.
After making out upwards of eleven miles, we encamped in a valley where
water lodged in holes and where we found also abundance of grass. We were
fast approaching those summits which had guided me in my route from Mount
Cole, then more than fifty miles behind us. Like that mountain these
heights also belonged to a lofty range, and like it were beside a very
low part of it, through which I hoped to effect a passage. Leaving the
party to encamp I proceeded forward in search of the hill I had so long
seen before me, and I found that the hills immediately beyond our camp
were part of the dividing range and broken into deep ravines on the
eastern side. Pursuing the connection between them and the still higher
summits on the north-east, I came at length upon an open valley enclosed
by hills very lightly wooded. This change was evidently owing to a
difference in the rock which was a fine-grained granite, whereas the
hills we had recently crossed belonged chiefly to the volcanic class of
rocks, with the exception of the range I had traversed that evening in my
way from the camp, which consisted of ferruginous sandstone. With the
change of rock a difference was also obvious in the shape of the hills,
the quantity and quality of the water, and the character of the trees.
The hills presented a bold sweeping outline and were no longer broken by
sharp-edged strata but crowned with large round masses of rock. Running
water was gushing from every hollow in much greater abundance than
elsewhere; and lastly the timber, which on the other ranges consisted
chiefly of ironbark and stringybark, now presented the shining bark of
the bluegum or yarra and the grey hue of the box. The Anthisteria
australis, a grass which seems to delight in a granitic soil, also
appeared in great abundance, and we also found the aromatic tea, Tasmania
aromatica, which represents in New Holland the winter's bark of the
southern extremity of South America. The leaves and bark of this tree
have a hot biting cinnamon-like taste on which account it is vulgarly
called the pepper-tree.
ASCEND MOUNT BYNG.
I could ride with ease to the summit of the friendly hill that I had seen
from afar, and found it but thinly wooded so that I could take my angles
around the horizon without difficulty. Again reminded by the similar
aspect this region presented of the lower Pyrenees and the pass of
Orbaicetta, I named the summit Mount Byng.
RICH GRASS.
A country fully as promising as the fine region we had left was embraced
in my view from that point. I perceived long patches of open plain
interspersed with forest hills and low woody ranges, among which I could
trace out a good line of route for another fifty miles homewards. The
highest of the mountains lay to the south and evidently belonged to the
coast range, if it might be so called; and on that side a lofty mass
arose above the rest and promised a view towards the sea, that height
being distant from the hill on which I stood about thirty miles. A broad
chain of woody hills connected the coast range with Mount Byng, and I
could trace the general course of several important streams through the
country to the east of it. Northward I saw a little of the interior
plains and the points where the various ranges terminated upon them. The
sun was setting when I left Mount Byng but I depended on one of our
natives, Tommy Came-last, who was then with me, for finding our way to
the camp; and who on such occasions could trace my steps backwards with
wonderful facility by day or night.
EXPEDITION PASS.
September 29.
The range before us was certainly rather formidable for the passage of
carts, but home lay beyond it, while delay and famine were synonymous
terms with us at that time. By following up the valley in which we had
encamped I found early on this morning an easy way through which the
carts might gain the lowest part of the range. Having conducted them to
this point without any other inconvenience besides the overturning of one
cart (from bad driving) we descended along the hollow of a ravine after
making it passable by throwing some rocks into the narrow part near its
head. The ravine at length opened, as I had expected, into a grassy
valley with a fine rivulet flowing through it, and from this valley we
debouched into the still more open granitic country at the foot of Mount
Byng. The pass thus auspiciously discovered and opened, over a neck
apparently the very lowest of the whole range, I named Expedition-pass,
confident that such a line of communication between the southern coast
and Sydney must, in the course of time, become a very considerable
thoroughfare. The change of soil however introduced us to the old
difficulty from which we had been happily relieved for some time, for we
came once more upon rotten and boggy ground. We met with this unexpected
impediment in an open-looking flat near a rivulet I was about to cross,
when I found the surface so extremely soft and yielding that from the
extreme resistance a bolt of the boat-carriage gave way, a circumstance
which obliged us immediately to encamp although we had travelled only
four miles.
EXCURSION TOWARDS PORT PHILLIP.
September 30.
Compelled thus to await the repair of the boat-carriage I determined to
make an excursion to the lofty mountain mass which appeared about thirty
miles to the southward, in order that I might connect my survey with Port
Phillip, which I hoped to see thence. The horses were not found as soon
as they were required, but when we at last got upon their backs we were
therefore less disposed to spare them.
DISCOVER AND CROSS THE RIVER BARNARD.
We crossed some soft hollows during the first few miles, and then arrived
on the banks of a small and deep river with reeds on its borders, and
containing many broad and deep reaches. It was full and flowed, but not
rapidly, towards the north-east, and it was not until we had continued
along the left bank of this stream for a considerable way upwards that we
found a rapid where we could cross without swimming. The left bank was of
bold acclivity but grassy and clear of timber, being very level on the
summit; and I found it consisted of trap-rock of the same vesicular
character which I had observed in so many other parts of this southern
region. Beyond the river (which I then named the Barnard) we first
encountered a hilly country from which we emerged rather unexpectedly;
for after crossing a small rivulet flowing in a deep and grassy dell
where trap-rock again appeared, and ascending the opposite slope, we
found that the summit consisted of an open level country of the finest
description. It was covered with the best kind of grass and the immediate
object of our ride, the mountain, was now visible beyond these rich
plains. Some fine forest-hills arose in various directions to the right
and left, and indeed I never saw a more pleasing or promising portion of
territory. The rich open ground across which we rode was not without
slight undulations; and when we had traversed about four miles of it we
came quite unawares to a full and flowing stream, nearly on a level with
its grassy banks; the bottom being so sound that we forded it without the
least difficulty.
EMUS NUMEROUS AND TAME.
Emus were very numerous on the downs and their curiosity brought them to
stare at our horses, apparently unconscious of the presence of the biped
on their backs whom both birds and beasts seem instinctively to avoid. In
one flock I counted twenty-nine emus, and so near did they come to us
that, having no rifle with me, I was tempted to discharge even my pistol
at one, although without effect. Kangaroos were equally numerous. Having
proceeded three miles beyond the stream we came to another flowing to the
westward between some very deep ponds, and it was probably a tributary to
the first.
THE RIVER CAMPASPE.
At twenty-two miles from the camp, on descending from some finely
undulating open ground, we arrived at a stream flowing westward, which I
judged to be also a branch of that we had first crossed. Its bed
consisted of granitic rocks and on the left bank I found trap. We had
this stream afterwards in sight on our left until, at two miles further,
we again crossed it and entered a wood of eucalyptus, being then only
five miles distant from the mountain, and we subsequently found that this
wood extended to its base.
EFFECTS OF A STORM IN THE WOODS.
The effects of some violent hurricane from the north were visible under
every tree, the earth being covered with broken branches, some of which
were more than a foot in diameter; the withering leaves remained upon
them, and I remarked that no whole trees had been blown down, although
almost all had lost their principal limbs and not a few had been reduced
to bare poles. The havoc which the storm had made gave an unusual aspect
to the whole of the forest land, so universally was it covered with
withering branches. Whether this region is subject to frequent
visitations of a like nature I could not of course then ascertain; but I
perceived that many of the trees had lost some of their top limbs at a
much earlier period in a similar manner. Neither had this been but a
partial tempest, for to the very base of the mountain the same effects
were visible. The trees on its side were of a much grander character than
those in the forest, and consisted principally of black-butt and bluegum
eucalypti measuring from six to eight feet in diameter. The rock was
syenite, so weathered as to resemble sandstone.
ASCEND MOUNT MACEDON.
I ascended without having been obliged to alight from my horse, and I
found that the summit was very spacious, being covered towards the south
with tree-ferns, and the musk-plant grew in great luxuriance. I saw also
many other plants found at the Illawarra, on the eastern coast of the
colony of New South Wales. The summit was full of wombat holes and,
unlike that side by which I had ascended, it was covered with the dead
trunks of enormous trees in all stages of decay.
PORT PHILLIP DIMLY SEEN FROM IT.
I had two important objects in view in ascending this hill; one being to
determine its position trigonometrically as a point likely to be seen
from the country to which I was going, where it might be useful to me in
fixing other points; the other being to obtain a view of Port Phillip,
and thus to connect my survey with that harbour. But the tree-fern,
musk-plant, brush, and lofty timber together shut us up for a long time
from any prospect of the low country to the southward, and it was not
until I had nearly exhausted a fine sunny afternoon in wandering round
the broad summit that I could distinguish and recognise some of the hills
to the westward; and when I at length obtained a glimpse of the country
towards the coast the features of the earth could scarcely be
distinguished from the sky or sea, although one dark point looked more
like a cape than a cloud and seemed to remain steady. With my glass I
perceived that water lay inside of that cape and that low plains extended
northward from the water. I next discovered a hilly point outside of the
cape or towards the sea; and on descending the hill to where the trees
grew less thickly I obtained an uninterrupted view of the whole piece of
water. As the sun went down the distant horizon became clearer towards
the coast and I intersected at length the two capes; also one at the head
of the bay and several detached hills. I perceived distinctly the course
of the Exe and Arundell rivers and a line of mangrove trees along the low
shore. In short I at length recognised Port Phillip and the intervening
country around it at a distance afterwards ascertained to be upwards of
fifty miles from Indented Head, which proved to be the first cape I had
seen; that outside (at A) being Point Nepean on the east side of the
entrance to this bay. At that vast distance I could trace no signs of
life about this harbour. No stockyards, cattle, nor even smoke, although
at the highest northern point of the bay I saw a mass of white objects
which might have been either tents or vessels. I perceived a white speck,
which I took for breakers or white sand, on the projecting point of the
north-eastern shore. (B.) On that day nine years exactly I first beheld
the heads of Port Jackson, a rather singular coincidence. Thus the
mountain on which I stood became an important point in my survey, and I
gave it the name of Mount Macedon, with reference to that of Port
Phillip.* It had been long dark before I reached the base of the mountain
and picked out a dry bit of turf on which to lie down for the night.
(*Footnote. Geboor is the native name of this hill, as since ascertained
by my friend Captain King, and it is a much better one, having fewer
letters and being aboriginal.)
October 1.
The morning was cloudy with drizzling rain, a circumstance which
prevented me from re-ascending a naked rock on the north-eastern summit
to extend my observations over the country we were about to traverse. I
found decomposed gneiss at the base of this hill.
RETURN TO THE CAMP.
While returning to the camp we saw great numbers of kangaroos but could
not add to our stock of provisions, having neither dogs nor a rifle with
us. I found on my arrival at the camp that the boat-carriage having been
made once more serviceable, the party was quite ready to move forward in
the morning.
October 2.
The day being Sunday and the weather unfavourable, as it rained heavily,
the barometer having also fallen more than half an inch, I made it a day
of rest for the benefit of our jaded horses, notwithstanding our own
short rations. I was also very desirous to complete some work on the map.
CONTINUE OUR HOMEWARD JOURNEY.
October 3.
A clear morning: I buried another letter for Mr. Stapylton, informing him
how he might best avoid the mud; and then we proceeded along the highest
points of the ground, thus keeping clear of that which was boggy, and we
found the surface to improve much in this respect as we receded from the
base of the higher range. We crossed some fine valleys, each watered by a
running stream; and all the hills consisted of granite. The various
rivulets we crossed fell southwards into one we had seen in a valley on
our right which continued from the base of the mountain, and this rivulet
at length entered a still deeper valley in which there was very little
wood, the hills on the opposite side being uncommonly level at the top.
In this valley a fine stream ran northward, being undoubtedly the
Barnard, or first river crossed by us on our way to Mount Macedon. We
succeeded in finding a ford, but although it was deep a greater
difficulty to be overcome was the descent of our carts to it, so abrupt
and steep-sided was the ravine in which the Barnard flowed.
WATERFALL OF COBAW.
When we had effected at length a descent and a passage across, having
also established our camp beyond this stream, I rode up the bank towards
a noise of falling water, and thus came to a very fine cascade of upwards
of sixty feet. The river indeed fell more than double that height, but in
the lower part the water escaped unseen, flowing amongst large blocks of
granite. I had visited several waterfalls in Scotland, but this was
certainly the most picturesque I had witnessed; although the effect was
not so much in the body of water falling, or the loud noise, as in the
bold character of the rocks over and amongst which it fell. Their colour
and shape were harmonized into a more complete scene than nature usually
presents, resembling the finished subject of an artist, foreground and
all. The prevailing hues were light red and purple-grey, the rocks being
finely interlaced with a small-leaved creeper of the brightest green. A
dark-coloured moss, which presents a warm green in the sun, covered the
lower masses and relieved and supported the brighter hues, while a
brilliant iris shone steadily in the spray, and blended into perfect
harmony the lighter hues of the higher rocks and the whiteness of the
torrent rushing over them. The banks of this stream were of so bold a
character that in all probability other picturesque scenery, perhaps
finer than this, may yet be found upon it.
SINGULAR COUNTRY ON THE BARNARD.
The geological character of the adjacent country was sufficiently
striking--the left bank consisted of undulating hills and bold rocks of
granite; the right of trap-rock in the higher part, and presented a
remarkable contrast to the other, from the perfectly level character of
the summits of adjacent hills, as if the whole had been once in a fluid
state. Some of these table hills were separated by dry grassy vales of
excellent soil. Further back the rugged crests of a wooded range of a
different formation rendered the level character of this ancient lava or
vesicular trap more obvious. The hills behind consisted in the higher
parts of a felspathic conglomerate and clay-slate dipping to the
eastward.
The country looked fine to the south and also northward, or down the
stream. By keeping along a winding valley we ascended without
inconvenience between these curiously scarped trap hills.
October 5.
We found the trees on the low range much broken like those near Mount
Macedon, and the ground strewed here also with withering boughs, the
result apparently of the same storm, the destructive effects of which we
had noticed on the trees there.
CROSS THE CAMPASPE.
Beyond the clay-stone range we entered on another open and grassy tract
where trap-rock again appeared; and at four miles and a half we descended
into a grassy ravine in which we found another river flowing northward;
this being apparently the second river crossed in my ride to Mount
Macedon and which I now named the Campaspe. It was difficult to find in
this stream any fordable place where the banks could be approached by the
carts, one side or the other always proving too steep; but at length we
succeeded. Strata of clay-slate inclined almost perpendicularly to the
horizon projected at parts of the left bank, and over this clay-slate I
found trap-rock. Beyond the Campaspe we crossed plains and much open
land. At length on descending a little from a sort of table the trap was
no longer to be seen, and we entered a wood where sandstone seemed to
predominate, the strata dipping to the south-west. Fine grassy slopes
extended through this forest, which was also so open that we could see
each way for several miles. A rich variety of yellow flowers adorned the
verdure among which the Caladenia and Diuris aurea, and also a large
white Anguillaria, were very abundant.
AN ENGLISH RAZOR FOUND.
Piper found at an old native encampment a razor, and I had the
satisfaction of reading on the blade the words "Old English" in this wild
region, still so remote from civilised man's dominion! In the afternoon a
remarkable change took place in the weather, for we had rain with an
easterly wind, the thermometer being at 68 degrees. We encamped on a
chain of deep ponds falling to the northward; reeds grew in them and we
endeavoured to catch cod-perch but without success, probably because the
natives of the country were too expert fishers to leave any in such
holes.
ASCEND MOUNT CAMPBELL.
October 6.
At two miles on we reached the summit of the range near Mount Campbell
which had partly bounded my view eastward from Mount Byng. A slight scrub
grew on this range but not so thickly as to be impervious to carts; and
after crossing it, as well as a succession of lower ridges, a good valley
at length appeared on the left, while another which was very wide and
green lay before us. At the further side of this and under another range
ran a deep mountain stream which was joined a little lower down by one
from the valley on the left: thus by following this stream I might have
turned the range, but it was not too steep to be crossed, and I required
some angles with the surrounding hills and the country before us. We
ascended it therefore and comparatively with ease; and from amongst the
trees on a hill I saw and intersected more points than I expected to see;
even Mount Macedon was visible and, to the eastward, summits which I was
almost certain lay beyond the river Goulburn. The descent from this ridge
to the eastward was rather steep; but we immediately after entered an
open forest in a valley which led very nearly in the direction of my
intended route.
NATIVE BEVERAGE.
The adjacent forest consisted of large trees of ironbark, the first of
that species of eucalyptus that we had seen for a considerable time. This
tree was then in flower, and we found in a large canoe at an old native
encampment a considerable quantity of the blossoms, which had not been
long cut. Piper explained the purpose for which these flowers had been
gathered by informing me that, by steeping them a night in water, the
natives make a sweet beverage named bool.
VALLEY OF THE DEEGAY.
October 7.
The whole of this day's journey (fourteen miles) was along the same
valley that we had entered yesterday. The deep bed of a stream, then
containing a chain of ponds only, pursued a meandering course through it.
We saw in this valley a pair of cockatoos with the scarlet and yellow
top-knot. (Plate 23.) We had not been long encamped when intelligence was
brought me by Piper that a party of natives were following our track, and
soon after, Burnett and he having gone out to encourage them to come up,
seven, including an old man and two boys, approached and I hastened out
to meet them that they might not sit down too close to our camp. They
told us the creek watering this long valley was named Deegay.
NATIVES EXCHANGE BASKETS FOR AXES.
Three of them carried very neatly-wrought baskets, and I gave two
tomahawks in exchange for two of the baskets, and then making signs that
it was time to sleep I returned to my tent, hoping that they would go to
their tribe.
THEY LINGER ABOUT OUR CAMP.
On looking out however some time after, I found that two had walked
boldly up to our fires, while the others continued to cower over a few
embers at the spot where I left them; the evening being very cold and
stormy. Piper, who at first seemed much disposed to make friends of these
people, had found that his endeavours to conciliate strange natives were
as usual in vain, and was now going about sword in hand, while three of
the strangers seemed desirous to assuage his anger by telling him a long
yarn. The other, who was the old man, was casting a covetous eye on all
things around the camp. When I went out they retired to the group, but
long after it had become quite dark there they still sat, having scarcely
any fire and evidently bent on mischief.
EFFECT OF FIREWORKS, ETC.
I really was not sorry then to find that they still continued, for I had
made arrangements for having a little amusement in that case, although
their object in lingering there was nothing less than to kill us when
asleep. Accordingly at a given signal Burnett suddenly sallied forth
wearing a gilt mask and holding in his hand a blue light with which he
fired a rocket.* Two men concealed behind the boat-carriage bellowed
hideously through speaking trumpets, while all the others shouted and
discharged their carabines in the air. Burnett marched solemnly towards
the astonished natives who were seen through the gloom but for an instant
as they made their escape and disappeared forever; leaving behind them
however rough-shaped heavy clubs which they had made there in the dark
with the new tomahawks we had given them, and which clubs were doubtless
made for the sole purpose of beating out our brains as soon as we fell
asleep. Thus their savage thirst for our blood only afforded us some
hearty laughing. Such an instance of ingratitude was to me however a
subject of painful reflection. The clubs made in the dark, during a very
cold night, with the tomahawks I had given them, enabled me to understand
better what the intentions of the natives had been in other similar
cases; and I was at length convinced that no kindness had the slightest
effect in altering the disposition and savage desire of these wild men to
kill white strangers on their first coming among them. That Australia can
never be explored with safety except by very powerful parties will
probably be proved by the treacherous murder of many brave white men.**
(*Footnote. The use of these masks, which I on several occasions
displayed with success, was first suggested to me by Sir John Jamison.)
(**Footnote. A distressing instance of this hostility towards the whites
on the part of the aborigines has since occurred not far from the very
spot where I wrote the above portion of my journal. Our line of route
soon became the high road from Sydney to Port Phillip, and it appears by
the Sydney newspapers (see Appendix 2.3) that the natives attacked a
party of fifteen men proceeding with cattle into these recently explored
regions. Although the whites had firearms the blacks killed seven of
them, leaving another so severely wounded that his recovery was deemed
hopeless. The winding swamp where this sudden attack by aboriginal
natives took place is marked Swampy River on the map, and from the
assembling of such a number at that point, exactly midway between the
Murrumbidgee and Port Phillip, therefore the most remote from settled
parts, and especially from the SUDDENNESS of that attack, the reader may
imagine the perilous situation of my party on the Darling and the lower
part of the Murray where, had any such attack but commenced successfully,
it is extremely improbable that any white man would have returned to the
settled districts.)
October 8.
The windings of the creek were this day more in our way as we proceeded
along the valley and, when in doubt whether it would be best for our
purpose to cross this channel or one joining it there from the south, I
perceived a small hill at no great distance beyond, upon which I halted
the party and ascended, when I saw that several ranges previously
observed were at no great distance before us. In these ranges a gap to
the south-east seemed to be the bed of the river which I knew we were
approaching, and which I therefore concluded we should find in the low
intervening country. Westward of the gap or ravine stood a large mass
which I thought might be the Mount Disappointment of Mr. Hume.
ARRIVAL AT, AND PASSAGE OF, THE GOULBURN.
On returning to the party we crossed the channel of the Deegay; but at
less than a mile further we were obliged to pass again to the right bank
at a point where its course tended northward. Soon after recrossing it we
met with a broad dry channel or lagoon, with lofty gum trees of the yarra
species on its borders, a proof that the river was at hand; and on
advancing three-quarters of a mile further we made the bank of the
Goulburn or Hovell, a fine river somewhat larger than the Murrumbidgee.*
Its banks and bed were firm; the breadth 60 yards; the mean depth as
ascertained by soundings being somewhat more there than two fathoms. The
velocity was at the rate of 100 yards in three minutes, or one mile and
240 yards per hour; the temperature of the water 54 degrees Fahrenheit.
After having ascertained that this river was nowhere fordable at that
time I sought an eligible place for swimming the cattle and horses across
and immediately launched the boat. All the animals reached the opposite
bank in safety; and by the evening every part of our equipment except the
boat-carriage was also across.
(*Footnote. This river has been unfortunate in obtaining a variety of
names and therefore less objection can be made to my preference of the
aboriginal which I ascertained through Piper to be Bayunga. We already
have a river Goulburn in New South Wales.)
FISH CAUGHT.
In this river we caught one or two very fine cod-perch, our old friends
Gristes peelii.