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Transcriber's note:
Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).
Text enclosed by equal signs is in bold face (=bold=).
Subscripts in chemical formulas are indicated by an
underscore followed by the subscripted number enclosed
by curly brackets (example: SiO_{2} is the formula for
silicon dioxide).
In Chapter XII we were unable to resolve a discrepancy
between H. H. McAlister and E. H. McAlister, so both
were retained.
MOUNT RAINIER
* * * * *
[Illustration]
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY
NEW YORK · BOSTON · CHICAGO · DALLAS
ATLANTA · SAN FRANCISCO
MACMILLAN & CO., LIMITED
LONDON · BOMBAY · CALCUTTA
MELBOURNE
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TORONTO
* * * * *
[Illustration: FIRST PICTURE OF MOUNT RAINER.
Drawn by W. Alexander from a sketch by J. Sykes, 1792.
Engraved by J. Landseer for Vancouver's Journal.]
MOUNT RAINIER
A Record of Exploration
Edited by
EDMOND S. MEANY
Professor of History in the University of Washington.
President of The Mountaineers.
Author of "Vancouver's Discovery of Puget Sound,"
"History of the State of Washington," etc.
New York
The Macmillan Company
1916
All rights reserved
Copyright, 1916,
By the Macmillan Company.
Set up and electrotyped. Published November, 1916.
Norwood Press
J. S. Cushing Co.--Berwick & Smith Co.
Norwood, Mass., U.S.A.
To
GENERAL HAZARD STEVENS
EARLY LOVER OF THE MOUNTAIN, THIS BOOK
IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
PREFACE
Mount Rainier National Park is visited annually by increasing
thousands of tourists. Many of them seek information about the
discoveries and explorations of the mountain and its environs. Much of
the information sought, especially that about the origin of place
names, has never been published. The annals of discovery and
exploration, which have been published, have often appeared in books,
pamphlets, or periodicals not easily accessible. It is the purpose of
this work to gather the essential portions of the desired information
within a compact, usable form.
During the summer of 1915, the mountain was for the first time
encircled by a large company of travelers. Small parties, carrying
their luggage and provisions on their backs, had made the trip a
number of times. The Mountaineers Club, in 1915, conducted a party of
one hundred, with fully equipped pack train and commissary, around the
mountain. They camped each evening at or near the snow-line. At the
daily campfires extracts were read from the original sources of the
mountain's history. The interest there manifested in such records gave
additional impulse to the preparation of this book.
It is natural that the chronological order should be chosen in
arranging the materials, beginning with the discovery and naming of
the mountain by Captain George Vancouver of the British Navy. The
records are then continued to the present time. There still remains to
be done much scientific work on the glaciers, snowfields, rocks, and
plants within the Park. It is hoped that this book may stimulate such
field work as well as the publication of the results.
The reader will notice that several writers in referring to the
mountain use some form of the name Tacoma. The editor has not
hesitated to publish such names as were used in the original articles
here reproduced. In all other cases he has used the name Mount
Rainier, approved by the United States Geographic Board.
In the separate chapters it will be noticed that the height of the
mountain has been placed at varying figures. The United States
Geological Survey has spoken on this subject with apparent official
finality, giving the altitude as 14,408 feet above sea level. How this
height was determined is told in the official announcement reproduced
in Chapter XVIII of the text, with comment thereon by F. E. Matthes,
one of the engineers of the United States Geological Survey.
The place names within the Park have been derived from such varied
sources that it is well-nigh impossible to ascertain the origin and
meaning of all of them. For the first time they are here (Chapter XIX)
gathered into a complete alphabetical arrangement with as full
information as is now available. The writer would welcome further
facts about any of the names.
In the introductory paragraphs before each chapter, the editor has
sought to express his acknowledgment for assistance rendered by others
in the compilation of the work. For fear some may have been omitted he
wishes here to express gratitude for all such help and to mention
especially Professor J. Franklin Jameson, Director of the Department
of Historical Research of the Carnegie Institution of Washington, for
his assistance in securing photostat reproductions of a number of rare
items found in the Library of Congress.
The editor also acknowledges the assistance rendered by Victor J.
Farrar, research assistant in the University of Washington.
EDMOND S. MEANY.
UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON,
Seattle, August, 1916.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I. THE MOUNTAIN DISCOVERED AND NAMED, 1792 1
By Captain George Vancouver, R.N.
II. FIRST APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAIN, 1833 6
By Doctor William Fraser Tolmie.
III. FIRST RECORDED TRIP THROUGH NACHES PASS, 1841 13
By Lieutenant Robert E. Johnson, U.S.N., of
the Wilkes Expedition.
IV. TACOMA AND THE INDIAN LEGEND OF HAMITCHOU 34
By Theodore Winthrop.
V. FIRST ATTEMPTED ASCENT, 1857 73
By Lieutenant A. V. Kautz, U.S.A.
VI. FIRST SUCCESSFUL ASCENT, 1870 94
By General Hazard Stevens.
VII. INDIAN WARNING AGAINST DEMONS 132
By Sluiskin, Indian Guide.
VIII. SECOND SUCCESSFUL ASCENT, 1870 135
By S. F. Emmons.
IX. EXPLORATIONS ON THE NORTHERN SLOPES, 1881-1883 142
By Bailey Willis.
X. DISCOVERY OF CAMP MUIR, 1888 150
By Major E. S. Ingraham.
XI. EXPLORING THE MOUNTAIN AND ITS GLACIERS, 1896 159
By Professor I. C. Russell.
XII. MCCLURE'S ACHIEVEMENT AND TRAGIC DEATH, 1897 183
By Herbert L. Bruce and Professor H. H.
McAlister.
XIII. FIELD NOTES ON MOUNT RAINIER, 1905 194
By Professor Henry Landes.
XIV. GLACIERS OF MOUNT RAINIER 201
By F. E. Matthes.
XV. THE ROCKS OF MOUNT RAINIER 241
By George Otis Smith.
XVI. THE FLORA OF MOUNT RAINIER 254
By Professor Charles V. Piper.
XVII. CREATION OF MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 287
Memorial by Scientific Societies.
XVIII. MOUNT RAINIER IS 14,408 FEET HIGH 297
By the United States Geological Survey.
XIX. PLACE NAMES AND ELEVATIONS IN MOUNT RAINIER
NATIONAL PARK 302
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
First Picture of Mount Rainier. Drawn by W. Alexander,
from a sketch by J. Sykes, 1792. Engraved by J.
Landseer for Vancouver's Journal _Frontispiece_
PAGE
Captain George Vancouver, Royal Navy 1
Doctor William Fraser Tolmie 6
Commander Charles Wilkes, United States Navy 13
Theodore Winthrop, from the Rowse Crayon Portrait. 34
General August Valentine Kautz, United States Army. 73
General Hazard Stevens 94
Samuel Franklin Emmons 135
Bailey Willis, from Photograph taken in 1883 142
Major Edward Sturgis Ingraham 150
Professor Israel Cook Russell 159
Professor Edgar McClure 183
Professor Henry Landes 194
François Émile Matthes 201
George Otis Smith 241
Professor Charles Vancouver Piper 254
Peter Rainier, Admiral of the Blue, Royal Navy 302
MOUNT RAINIER
A RECORD OF EXPLORATIONS
[Illustration: CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER.
Royal Navy.]
I. THE MOUNTAIN DISCOVERED AND NAMED, 1792
BY CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER, R.N.
Captain George Vancouver, the great English navigator and
explorer, lived but forty years, from 1758 to 1798. He
entered the British navy on the _Resolution_ under Captain
James Cook in 1771 and was with that even more famous
explorer during his second and third voyages, from 1772 to
1780. He was placed in command of the _Discovery_ and
_Chatham_ in 1791 and sent to the northwest coast of America.
On this voyage he discovered and named Puget Sound and many
other geographic features on the western coast of America.
The portions of his Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific
Ocean, giving the record of his discovery, naming, and
exploration in the vicinity of Mount Rainier, are taken from
Volume II of the second edition, published in London in 1801,
pages 79, 118, and 134-138.
[Tuesday, May 8, 1792.] The weather was serene and pleasant, and the
country continued to exhibit, between us and the eastern snowy range,
the same luxuriant appearance. At its northern extremity, mount Baker
bore by compass N. 22 E.; the round snowy mountain, now forming its
southern extremity, and which, after my friend Rear Admiral Rainier, I
distinguished by the name of MOUNT RAINIER, bore N. [S.] 42 E.
[Saturday, May 19, 1792.] About noon, we passed an inlet on the
larboard or eastern shore, which seemed to stretch far to the
northward; but, as it was out of the line of our intended pursuit of
keeping the continental shore on board, I continued our course up the
main inlet, which now extended as far as, from the deck, the eye could
reach, though, from the mast-head, intervening land appeared, beyond
which another high round mountain covered with snow was discovered,
apparently situated several leagues to the south of mount Rainier, and
bearing by compass S. 22 E. This I considered as a further extension
of the eastern snowy range; but the intermediate mountains, connecting
it with mount Rainier, were not sufficiently high to be seen at that
distance.
[Saturday, May 26, 1792.] Towards noon we landed on a point on the
eastern shore, whose latitude I observed to be 47° 21', round which
we flattered ourselves we should find the inlet take an extensive
eastwardly course. This conjecture was supported by the appearance of
a very abrupt division in the snowy range of mountains immediately to
the south of mount Rainier, which was very conspicuous from the ship,
and the main arm of the inlet appearing to stretch in that direction
from the point we were then upon. We here dined, and although our
repast was soon concluded, the delay was irksome, as we were
excessively anxious to ascertain the truth, of which we were not long
held in suspense. For having passed round the point, we found the
inlet to terminate here in an extensive circular compact bay, whose
waters washed the base of mount Rainier, though its elevated summit
was yet at a very considerable distance from the shore, with which it
was connected by several ridges of hills rising towards it with
gradual ascent and much regularity. The forest trees, and the several
shades of verdure that covered the hills, gradually decreased in point
of beauty, until they became invisible; when the perpetual clothing of
snow commenced, which seemed to form a horizontal line from north to
south along this range of rugged mountains, from whose summit mount
Rainier rose conspicuously, and seemed as much elevated above them as
they were above the level of the sea; the whole producing a most
grand, picturesque effect. The lower mountains, as they descended to
the right and left, became gradually relieved of their frigid garment;
and as they approached the fertile woodland region that binds the
shores of this inlet in every direction, produced a pleasing variety.
We now proceeded to the N. W. in which direction the inlet from hence
extended, and afforded us some reason to believe that it communicated
with that under the survey of our other party. This opinion was
further corroborated by a few Indians, who had in a very civil manner
accompanied us some time, and who gave us to understand that in the
north western direction this inlet was very wide and extensive; this
they expressed before we quitted our dinner station, by opening their
arms, and making other signs that we should be led a long way by
pursuing that route; whereas, by bending their arm, or spreading out
their hand, and pointing to the space contained in the curve of the
arm, or between the fore-finger and thumb, that we should find our
progress soon stopped in the direction which led towards mount
Rainier. The little respect which most Indians bear to truth, and
their readiness to assert what they think is most agreeable for the
moment, or to answer their own particular wishes and inclinations,
induced me to place little dependance on this information, although
they could have no motive for deceiving us.
About a dozen of these friendly people had attended at our dinner, one
part of which was a venison pasty. Two of them, expressing a desire to
pass the line of separation drawn between us, were permitted to do so.
They sat down by us, and ate of the bread, and fish that we gave them
without the least hesitation; but on being offered some of the
venison, though they saw us eat it with great relish, they could not
be induced to taste it. They received it from us with great disgust,
and presented it round to the rest of the party, by whom it underwent
a very strict examination. Their conduct on this occasion left no
doubt in our minds that they believed it to be human flesh, an
impression which it was highly expedient should be done away. To
satisfy them that it was the flesh of the deer, we pointed to the
skins of the animal they had about them. In reply to this they pointed
to each other, and made signs that could not be misunderstood, that it
was the flesh of human beings, and threw it down in the dirt, with
gestures of great aversion and displeasure. At length we happily
convinced them of their mistake by shewing them a haunch we had in the
boat, by which means they were undeceived, and some of them ate of the
remainder of the pye with a good appetite.
This behavior, whilst in some measure tending to substantiate their
knowledge or suspicions that such barbarities have existence, led us
to conclude, that the character given of the natives of North-West
America does not attach to every tribe. These people have been
represented not only as accustomed inhumanly to devour the flesh of
their conquered enemies; but also to keep certain servants, or rather
slaves, of their own nation, for the sole purpose of making the
principal part of the banquet, to satisfy the unnatural savage
gluttony of the chiefs of this country, on their visits to each other.
Were such barbarities practiced once a month, as is stated, it would
be natural to suppose these people, so inured, would not have shewn
the least aversion to eating flesh of any description; on the
contrary, it is not possible to conceive a greater degree of
abhorrence than was manifested by these good people, until their minds
were made perfectly easy that it was not human flesh we offered them
to eat. This instance must necessarily exonerate at least this
particular tribe from so barbarous a practice; and, as their affinity
to the inhabitants of Nootka, and of the sea-coast, to the south of
that place, in their manners and customs, admits of little difference,
it is but charitable to hope those also, on a more minute inquiry, may
be found not altogether deserving such a character. They are not,
however, free from the general failing attendant on a savage life. One
of them having taken a knife and fork to imitate our manner of eating,
found means to secrete them under his garment; but, on his being
detected, gave up his plunder with the utmost good humour and
unconcern.
They accompanied us from three or four miserable huts, near the place
where we had dined, for about four miles; during which time they
exchanged the only things they had to dispose of, their bows, arrows,
and spears, in the most fair and honest manner, for hawk's bells,
buttons, beads, and such useless commodities.
[Illustration: DOCTOR WILLIAM FRASER TOLMIE.]
II. FIRST APPROACH TO THE MOUNTAIN, 1833
BY DOCTOR WILLIAM FRASER TOLMIE
Doctor William Fraser Tolmie was a medical officer in the
service of the Hudson's Bay Company. He was born at
Inverness, Scotland, on February 3, 1812, and died at
Victoria, British Columbia, on December 8, 1888. He was
educated at Glasgow, and when twenty years of age he joined
the Hudson's Bay Company. In 1833, he was located at
Nisqually House, Puget Sound. It was then that he made his
trip to the mountain. He later served at other posts in the
Pacific Northwest, and was raised to the rank of Chief Factor
in 1856. He was then placed on the board of management of the
great company. In 1860 he retired from the service.
In 1850 he was married to Jane, eldest daughter of Chief
Factor John Work. Their descendants still live at Victoria,
British Columbia. They, especially the son John W. Tolmie,
have compared this reproduction from Doctor Tolmie's diary
with the original manuscript to insure accuracy. So far as is
now known, this is the first record of a white man's close
approach to Mount Rainier.
It is pleasant to note that the new map of Mount Rainier
National Park, published by the United States Geological
Survey, shows the peak he climbed and the creek flowing near
it bearing the name of Tolmie.
August 27, 1833. Obtained Mr. Herron's consent to making a botanizing
excursion to Mt. Rainier, for which he has allowed 10 days. Have
engaged two horses from a chief living in that quarter, who came here
tonight, and Lachalet is to be my guide. Told the Indians I am going
to Mt. Rainier to gather herbs of which to make medicine, part of
which is to be sent to Britain and part retained in case intermittent
fever should visit us when I will prescribe for the Indians.
Aug. 28. A tremendous thunder storm occurred last night, succeeded by
torrents of rain. The thunder was very loud, and the lightening
flashing completely enlightened my apartment. Have been chatting with
Mr. Herron about colonizing Whidby's island, a project of which he is
at present quite full--more anon. No horses have appeared. Understand
that the mountain is four days' journey distant--the first of which
can only be performed on horseback. If they do not appear tomorrow I
shall start with Lachalet on foot.
Aug. 29. Prairie 8 miles N. of home. Sunset. Busy making arrangements
for journey, and while thus occupied the guide arrived with 3 horses.
Started about 3, mounted on a strong iron grey, my companions
disposing of themselves on the other two horses, except one, who
walked. We were 6 in number. I have engaged Lachalet for a blanket,
and his nephew, Lashima, for ammunition to accompany me and Nuckalkut
a Poyalip (whom I took for a native of Mt. Rainier) with 2 horses to
be guide on the mountain after leaving the horse track, and Quilniash,
his relative, a very active, strong fellow, has volunteered to
accompany me. The Indians are all in great hopes of killing elk and
chevriel, and Lachalet has already been selling and promising the
grease he is to get. It is in a great measure the expectation of
finding game that urges them to undertake the journey. Cantered slowly
along the prairie and are now at the residence of Nuckalkut's father,
under the shade of a lofty pine, in a grassy amphitheatre, beautifully
interspersed and surrounded with oaks, and through the gaps in the
circle we see the broad plain extending southwards to Nusqually. In a
hollow immediately behind is a small lake whose surface is almost one
sheet of waterlilies about to flower. Have supped on sallal; and at
dusk shall turn in.
Aug. 30. Sandy beach of Poyallipa River. Slept ill last night, and as
I dozed in the morning was aroused by a stroke across the thigh from a
large decayed branch which fell from the pine overshadowing us. A
drizzling rain fell during most of the night. Got up about dawn, and
finding thigh stiff and painful thought a stop put to the journey, but
after moving about it felt easier. Started about sunrise, I mounted on
a spirited brown mare, the rest on passable animals, except Nuckalkut,
who bestrode a foal. Made a northeasterly course through prairie.
Breakfasted at a small marsh on bread, sallal, dried cockels and a
small piece of chevriel saved from the last night's repast of my
companions (for I cannot call them attendants). The points of wood now
became broader, and the intervening plain degenerated into prairions.
Stopped about 1 P.M. at the abode of 3 Tekatat families, who met us
rank and file at the door to shake hands. Their sheds were made of
bark resting on a horizontal pole, supported at each end by tripods,
and showed an abundance of elk's flesh dried within. Two kettles were
filled with this, and, after smoking, my Indians made a savage repast
on the meat and bouillion, Lachalet saying it was the Indian custom to
eat a great deal at once and afterwards abstain for a time; he,
however, has twice eaten since. Traded some dried meat for 4 balls and
3 rings, and mounting, rode off in the midst of a heavy shower.
Ascended and descended at different times several steep banks and
passed through dense and tangled thickets, occasionally coming on a
prairion. The soil throughout was of the same nature as that of
Nusqually. After descending a very steep bank came to the Poyallip.
Lashima carried the baggage across on his head. Rode to the opposite
side through a rich alluvial plain, 3 or 4 miles in length and 3/4 to
1 in breadth. It is covered with fern about 8 feet high in some parts.
Passed through woods and crossed river several times. About 7 P.M.
dismounted and the horses and accoutrements were left in a wood at
the river's brink. Started now on foot for a house Nuckalkut knew, and
after traversing woods and twice crossing the torrents "on the
unsteadfast footing" of a log, arrived at the house, which was a
deserted one, and encamped on the dry part of river's bed, along which
our course lies tomorrow. The Poyallip flows rapidly and is about 10
or 12 yards broad. Its banks are high and covered with lofty cedars
and pines. The water is of a dirty white colour, being impregnated by
white clay. Lachalet has tonight been trying to persuade me from going
to the snow on the mountain.
Aug. 31. Slept well, and in the morning two salmon were caught, on
which we are to breakfast before starting. After breakfast Quillihaish
stuck the gills and sound of the fish on a spit which stood before the
fire, so that the next comer might know that salmon could be obtained
there. Have traveled nearly the whole day through a wood of cedar and
pine, surface very uneven, and after ascending the bed of river a
couple of miles are now encamped about ten yards from its margin in
the wood. Find myself very inferior to my companions in the power of
enduring fatigue. Their pace is a smart trot which soon obliges me to
rest. The waters of the Poyallip are still of the same colour. Can see
a short distance up two lofty hills covered with wood. Evening cloudy
and rainy. Showery all day.
Sunday, Sept. 1. Bank of Poyallip river. It has rained all night and
is now, 6 A.M., pouring down. Are a good deal sheltered by the trees.
My companions are all snoozing. Shall presently arouse them and hold a
council of war. The prospect is very discouraging. Our provisions will
be expended today and Lachalet said he thought the river would be too
high to be fordable in either direction. Had dried meat boiled in a
cedar bark kettle for breakfast. I got rigged out in green blanket
without trousers, in Indian style, and trudged on through the wood.
Afterwood exchanged blanket with Lachalet for Ouvrie's capot, which
has been on almost every Indian at Nusqually. However, I found it more
convenient than the blanket. Our course lay up the river, which we
crossed frequently. The bed is clayey in most parts. Saw the sawbill
duck once or twice riding down on a log and fired twice,
unsuccessfully. Have been flanked on both sides with high, pineclad
hills for some time. A short distance above encampment snow can be
seen. It having rained almost incessantly, have encamped under
shelving bank which has been undermined by the river. Immense stones,
only held in situ by dried roots, form the roof, and the floor is very
rugged. Have supped on berries, which, when heated with stones in
kettle, taste like lozenges. Propose tomorrow to ascend one of the
snowy peaks above.
Sept. 2. Summit of a snowy peak immediately under Rainier. Passed a
very uncomfortable night in our troglodytic mansion. Ascended the
river for 3 miles to where it was shut in by amphitheatre of mountains
and could be seen bounding over a lofty precipice above. Ascended that
which showed most snow. Our track lay at first through a dense wood of
pine, but we afterwards emerged into an exuberantly verdant gully,
closed on each side by lofty precipices. Followed fully to near the
summit and found excellent berries in abundance. It contained very few
Alpine plants. Afterwards came to a grassy mound, where the sight of
several decayed trees induced us to encamp. After tea I set out with
Lachalet and Nuckalkut for the summit, which was ankle deep with snow
for 1/4 mile downwards. The summit terminated in abrupt precipice
directed northwards and bearing N. E. from Mt. Rainier, the adjoining
peak. The mists were at times very dense, but a puff of S. W. wind
occasionally dispelled them. On the S. side of Poyallip is a range of
snow-dappled mountains, and they, as well as that on the N. side,
terminate in Mt. Rainier, a short distance to E. Collected a vasculum
of plants at the snow, and having examined and packed them shall turn
in. Thermometer at base, 54 deg., at summit of ascent, 47 deg.
Sept. 3. Woody islet on Poyallip. It rained heavily during night, but
about dawn the wind shifting to the N. E. dispersed the clouds and
frost set in. Lay shivering all night and roused my swarthy companions
twice to rekindle the fire. At sunrise, accompanied by Quilliliash,
went to the summit and found the tempr. of the air 33 deg. The snow
was spangled and sparkled brightly in the bright sunshine. It was
crisp and only yielded a couple of inches to the pressure of foot in
walking. Mt. Rainier appeared surpassingly splendid and magnificent;
it bore, from the peak on which I stood, S. S. E., and was separated
from it only by a narrow glen, whose sides, however, were formed by
inaccessible precipices. Got all my bearings more correctly to-day,
the atmosphere being clear and every object distinctly perceived. The
river flows at first in a northerly direction from the mountain. The
snow on the summit of the mountain adjoining Rainier on western side
of Poyallip is continuous with that of latter, and thus the S. Western
aspect of Rainier seemed the most accessible. By ascending the first
mountain through a gully in its northern side, you reach the eternal
snow of Rainier, and for a long distance afterwards the ascent is very
gradual, but then it becomes abrupt from the sugarloaf form assumed by
the mountain. Its eastern side is steep on its northern aspect; a few
glaciers were seen on the conical portion; below that the mountain is
composed of bare rock, apparently volcanic, which about 50 yards in
breadth reaches from the snow to the valley beneath and is bounded on
each side by bold bluff crags scantily covered with stunted pines. Its
surface is generally smooth, but here and there raised into small
points or knobs or arrowed with short and narrow longitudinal lines in
which snow lay. From the snow on western border the Poyallipa arose,
and in its course down this rock slope was fenced into the eastward by
a regular elevation of the rock in the form of a wall or dyke, which
at the distance I viewed it at, seemed about four feet high and four
hundred yards in length. Two large pyramids of rock arose from the
gentle acclivity at S. W. extremity of mountain, and around each the
drifting snow had accumulated in large quantity, forming a basin
apparently of great depth. Here I also perceived, peeping from their
snowy covering, two lines of dyke similar to that already mentioned.
Sept. 4. Am tonight encamped on a small eminence near the commencement
of prairie. Had a tedious walk through the wood bordering Poyallip,
but accomplished it in much shorter time than formerly. Evening fine.
Sept. 5. Nusqually. Reached Tekatat camp in the forenoon and regaled
on boiled elk and shallon. Pushed on ahead with Lachalet and
Quilliliash, and arrived here in the evening, where all is well.
[Illustration: COMMANDER CHARLES WILKES.
United States Navy.]
III. FIRST RECORDED TRIP THROUGH NACHES PASS, 1841
BY LIEUTENANT ROBERT E. JOHNSON, U.S.N.
The proper and official title of the United States Exploring
Expedition, 1838-1842, by common speech has been contracted
to the Wilkes Expedition. The commander of the expedition was
Charles Wilkes, who entered the United States Navy as a
midshipman on January 1, 1818. On July 25, 1866, he was
promoted to rear-admiral on the retired list. He was born at
New York City on April 3, 1798, and died at Washington City
on February 8, 1877.
He was honored in Europe and America for his scientific
attainments, especially in connection with the expedition
that now bears his name. That voyage with a squadron of
American naval vessels was for the purpose of increasing the
world's knowledge of geography and kindred sciences. They
reached Puget Sound in 1841 and, while making headquarters at
Nisqually House of the Hudson's Bay Company, Commander Wilkes
sent Lieutenant Robert E. Johnson in command of a party to
cross the Cascade Range. Search in the Navy Department
revealed only scant information that Lieutenant Johnson was
from North Carolina. The Historical Commission of that State
and others there have failed to find information about his
subsequent career.
Since he speaks of obtaining a guide, it is likely that he
was not the first white man to cross the Cascades, but he was
the first to leave us a known record. The portions of that
record which bear upon Mount Rainier and its environs is here
reproduced.
Commander Wilkes, before giving the record of his
subordinate, makes reference to the peak as follows: "The
height of Mount Rainier was obtained by measuring a base line
on the prairies, in which operation I was assisted by
Lieutenant Case, and the triangulation gave its height,
twelve thousand three hundred and thirty feet." (Narrative,
Volume IV., page 413.)
The final reports of the expedition were to appear in
twenty-four large volumes and eleven atlases. Several of the
volumes were never published, and of those completed only one
hundred sets were printed. The rare monographs were full of
information. The first part or "Narrative" in five volumes
was issued in several editions. The portions here reproduced
are taken from the edition by Lea and Blanchard,
Philadelphia, 1845, Volume IV., pages 418-429 and 468-470.
I have before stated that Lieutenant Johnson's party was ready for
departure on the 19th May [1841]; that it consisted of Lieutenant
Johnson, Messrs. Pickering, Waldron, and Brackenridge, a sergeant of
marines, and a servant. I must do justice to the exertions of this
officer in getting ready for his journey, which he accomplished in
less time than I anticipated, as the delays incident to setting out on
a novel expedition, and one believed by most persons to be scarcely
practicable in the summer season, are great and tantalizing. In making
preparations for such a journey, the Indians were to be bargained
with, and, as I have before had occasion to remark, are enough to tire
the patience of Job himself. First, the Indian himself is to be sought
out; then the horse is to be tried; next the price is to be discussed,
then the mode of payment, and finally the potlatch: each and all are
matters of grave consideration and delay, during which the Indians
make a business of watching every circumstance of which they can take
advantage. No one can be sure of closing his bargain, until the terms
are duly arranged, the potlatch given, and the horse delivered. After
obtaining horses, Lieutenant Johnson had the saddles, alforcas,
saddle-cloths, saddle-trees or pack-saddles, etc., with a variety of
lashings, to prepare. For many of these we were indebted to the
kindness of Captain M'Niel and Mr. Anderson.[1] Others were made on
board the ship, after a pattern lent us. One of the most important
persons to obtain was a good guide, and hearing of one who resided at
the Cowlitz river, by the name of Pierre Charles,[2] he was at once
sent for; but I did not think it worth while to detain the party until
his arrival, as he could easily overtake it. Lieutenant Johnson,
therefore, was directed to hurry his departure, and to set out, which
he did on the 19th May, at noon, and proceeded to the prairie about
two miles distant, where the party encamped.
There is little danger on these expeditions of having too few
articles: the great difficulty is to avoid having too many. It turned
out as I had anticipated. The first night passed in their tent fully
satisfied them of this, and taught them to dispense with all other
bedding save blankets.
Mr. Anderson rode to the encampment before night, bringing the news of
the arrival of Pierre Charles at the fort; whereupon Lieutenant
Johnson returned to make an agreement with him and his companion. This
was done, although, as is to be supposed, their demands were
exorbitant, in consequence of the belief that their services were
indispensable.
Pierre Charles's companion was a young man, named Peter Bercier, (a
connexion of Plomondon)[3] who spoke English, and all the languages of
the country.
On the morning of the 20th, they obtained an accession to their
horses, and set out on their route towards the mountains. Although the
possibility of crossing them was doubted, yet I felt satisfied if
exertion and perseverance could effect the object, the officer who had
charge of the party would succeed. This day, they made but five miles;
after which they encamped, at the recommendation of Pierre Charles, in
order that the horses might not be over-fatigued, and be able to get
good pasture and water. Here a number of natives visited the camp.
Pine trees were in large numbers, many of them upwards of one hundred
and thirty feet in height. On the banks of a small stream, near their
camp, were found the yellow Ranunculus, a species of Trillium, in
thickets, with large leaves and small flowers, Lupines, and some
specimens of a cruciferous plant.
On the 21st they made an early start, and in the forenoon crossed the
Puyallup, a stream about seventy feet wide; along which is a fine
meadow of some extent, with clumps of alder and willow: the soil was
of a black turfy nature. After leaving the meadow-land, they began to
ascend along a path that was scarcely visible from being overgrown
with Gaultheria, Hazel, Spiræa, Vaccinium, and Cornus.
During the day, they crossed the Stehna.[4] In the evening, after
making sixteen miles, they encamped at the junction of the Puyallup
with the Upthascap.[5] Near by was a hut, built of the planks of the
Arbor Vitæ (Thuja), which was remarkably well made; and the boards
used in its structure, although split, had all the appearance of being
sawn: many of them were three feet wide, and about fifteen feet long.
The hut was perfectly water-tight. Its only inhabitants were two
miserable old Indians and two boys, who were waiting here for the
arrival of those employed in the salmon-fishery. The rivers were
beginning to swell to an unusual size, owing to the melting of the
snows in the mountains; and in order to cross the streams, it became
necessary to cut down large trees, over which the packs were carried,
while the horses swam over. These were not the only difficulties they
had to encounter: the path was to be cut for miles through thickets of
brushwood and fallen timber; steep precipices were to be ascended,
with slippery sides and entangled with roots of every variety of shape
and size, in which the horses' legs would become entangled, and before
reaching the top be precipitated, loads and all, to the bottom. The
horses would at times become jammed with their packs between trees,
and were not to be disengaged without great toil, trouble, and damage
to their burdens. In some cases, after succeeding in getting nearly to
the top of a hill thirty or forty feet high, they would become
exhausted and fall over backwards, making two or three somersets,
until they reached the bottom, when their loads were again to be
arranged.
On the 22d, their route lay along the banks of the Upthascap,[6] which
is a much wider stream than the Puyallup. A short distance up, they
came to a fish-weir, constructed as the one heretofore described, on
the Chickeeles,[7] though much smaller.
This part of the country abounds with arbor-vitæ trees, some of which
were found to be thirty feet in circumference at the height of four
feet from the ground, and upwards of one hundred feet high.
Notwithstanding the many difficulties encountered, they this day made
about twelve miles.
On the morning of the 23d, just as they were about to leave their
camp, their men brought in a deer, which was soon skinned and packed
away on the horses. This was the first large game they had obtained,
having previously got only a few grouse.
They had now reached the Smalocho,[8] which runs to the westward, and
is sixty-five feet wide: its depth was found to be four and a half
feet, which, as it was also rapid, was too great for the horses to
ford and carry their loads. The Indians now became serviceable to
them. Lieutenant Johnson had engaged several that were met on their
way, and they now amounted to thirteen, who appeared for a time lively
and contented. This, however, was but a forerunner of discontent, and
a refusal to go any farther; but with coaxing and threatening they
were induced to proceed.
The road or way, after passing the river, was over a succession of
deep valleys and hills, so steep that it was difficult for a horse to
get up and over them with a load, and the fall of a horse became a
common occurrence. They were all, however, recovered without injury,
although one of them fell upwards of one hundred feet; yet in
consequence of his fall having been repeatedly broken by the shrubs
and trees, he reached the bottom without injury to himself, but with
the loss of his load, consisting of their camp utensils, &c., which
were swept off by the rapid current of the river.
The route lay, for several days, through forests of spruce, and some
of the trees that had fallen measured two hundred and sixty-five feet
in length. One of these, at the height of ten feet from the roots,
measured thirty-five feet in circumference, and at the end which had
been broken off in its fall, it was found to be eighteen inches in
diameter, which would make the tree little short of three hundred feet
when it was growing. The stems of all these trees were clear of
branches to the height of one hundred and fifty feet from the ground,
and perfectly straight. In many cases it was impossible to see over
the fallen trees, even when on horseback, and on these, seedlings were
growing luxuriantly, forcing their roots through the bark and over the
body of the trunk till they reached the ground. Many spruces were seen
which had grown in this way; and these, though of considerable size,
still retained the form of an arch, showing where the old tree had
lain, and under which they occasionally rode. As may be supposed, they
could not advance very rapidly over such ground, and Lieutenant
Johnson remarks, that although he was frequently desirous of
shortening the road, by taking what seemed a more direct course, he
invariably found himself obliged to return to the Indian trail.
Daylight of the 24th brought with it its troubles: it was found that
the horses had strayed,--a disaster that the Indians took quite
coolly, hoping it would be the cause of their return. After a
diligent search, the horses were found in places where they had sought
better food, although it was scanty enough even there.
During the day, the route led along the Smalocho,[9] which runs nearly
east and west; and they only left its banks when they were obliged to
do so by various impassable barriers. This part of the country is
composed of conical hills, which are all thickly clothed with pine
trees of gigantic dimensions. They made nine miles this day, without
accident; but when they encamped, they had no food for the horses
except fern. The animals, in consequence, seemed much overcome, as did
also the Indians, who had travelled the whole day with heavy loads.
Lieutenant Johnson, by way of diverting the fatigue of the latter, got
up a shooting-match for a knife, the excitement of which had the
desired effect.
The trees hereabout were chiefly the cotton-wood, maple, spruce, pine,
and elder, and some undergrowth of raspberry, the young shoots of
which the natives eat with great relish.
On the 25th, they set out at an early hour, and found the travelling
less rough, so that they reached the foot of La Tête[10] before noon,
having accomplished eleven miles. Lieutenant Johnson with the sergeant
ascended La Tête, obtained the bearings, from its summit, of all the
objects around, and made its height by barometer, two thousand seven
hundred and ninety-eight feet: its latitude was fixed at 47° 08'
54'' N. This mountain was entirely destitute of wood; but, having
been burnt over, was found strewn with huge charred trunks, and the
whole ground covered with ashes. The inclination of its sides was
about fifty degrees.
The country around seemed one continued series of hills, and like La
Tête had suffered from the fire. According to the natives, although
the wood on the mountains was destroyed many years since, yet it was
still observed to be on fire, in some places, about two years ago.
Most of the tops of the distant peaks had snow on them. To the east
was seen the appearance of two valleys, through which the two branches
of the Smalocho[11] flow.
On descending from La Tête, the river was to be crossed: this was
found too deep to be forded, and it consequently became necessary to
form a bridge to transport the baggage, by cutting down trees. The
current was found to run 6·2 miles per hour. They had been in hopes of
reaching the Little Prairie before night, but in consequence of this
delay, were forced to encamp before arriving there.
The Indians complained much of the want of food: many of the horses
also were exhausted for the same cause, and exhibited their scanty
nourishment in their emaciated appearance.
On the 26th, they reached the Little Prairie at an early hour, where,
after consultation, it was determined to wait a day to recruit the
horses, as this was the only place they could obtain food. It was also
desirable to ascertain the practicability of passing the mountain with
the horses, and at the same time to carry forward some of the loads,
that the horses might have as little as possible to transport. Mr.
Waldron and Pierre Charles were therefore sent forward with the
Indians, having loads of fifty pounds each, to ascend the mountain,
while Lieutenant Johnson remained with the camp to get observations.
Dr. Pickering and Mr. Brackenridge accompanied the party of Mr.
Waldron to the snow-line. The prairie on which they had encamped was
about two and a half acres in extent, and another of the same size was
found half a mile farther east.
The 27th was employed by Lieutenant Johnson in determining the
positions of this prairie, which proved to be in latitude 47° 05'
51'' N., and longitude 120° 13' W.[12] The variation was 19° 39'
easterly. At sunset, messengers arrived from Mr. Waldron, who had
reached the summit at noon, and was to proceed down to the snow-line
to encamp. The snow was found to be about ten feet deep, and the party
crossing sank about ankle-deep, for which reason opinions varied as to
the possibility of getting the horses over; but it was determined to
make the trial. Lieutenant Johnson, therefore, set out, leaving a
supply of food with an old Indian and a horse, both of whom were worn
out, and unable to proceed.
By eleven o'clock, they were met by Pierre Charles and the Indians,
who gave some slight hopes of accomplishing the task of getting all
over. Lieutenant Johnson determined to take only the strongest horses
to the edge of the snow. At half-past 5 P.M., they reached the best
practicable encampment, being a mile beyond the place where Mr.
Waldron had encamped two days before. The snow having melted so
rapidly, Lieutenant Johnson, taking all things into consideration,
determined, notwithstanding the forebodings of failure held out by the
party that had gone before, to make the attempt. It now became
necessary to push on with as much haste as possible, on account of the
state of their provisions; for what with the loss sustained in fording
the river, and in consumption, they were obliged to adopt an
allowance.
On the 29th, they departed, at early dawn, in order to take advantage
of the firmness of the snow, occasioned by the last night's frost.
They ascended rapidly, and passed over the worst of the way, the
horses sinking no deeper than their fetlocks. They first passed over a
narrow ridge, and then a succession of small cones, until they reached
the summit.
Mount Rainier, from the top, bore south-southwest, apparently not more
than ten miles distant. A profile of the mountain indicates that it
has a terminal crater, as well as some on its flanks. The barometer
stood at 24·950 in.: five thousand and ninety-two feet. There was
another, to the north-northeast, covered with snow, and one to the
west appeared about two hundred feet higher than the place where the
observations were taken. This latter had suffered from fire in the
same way as La Tête, and showed only a few patches of snow. To the
eastward, a range of inferior height, running north and south, was in
view, without snow.
On the western ascent of this mountain, the pines were scrubby; but at
the summit, which was a plain, about a mile in length by half a mile
wide, they were straight and towering, about eighty feet in height,
without any limbs or foliage, except at the top. The distance
travelled over the top was about five miles. On descending the east
side, the snow was much deeper and softer, but the horses managed to
get along well, and without accident.
Lieutenant Johnson, in following the party, missed the trail, and lost
his way for three or four hours. On discovering the camp of those who
had gone before, on the opposite side of a stream, he attempted to
cross it on a log, in doing which his foot slipped, and he was
precipitated into the water. Although his first thought was to save
the chronometer from accident, it was too late, for the watch had
stopped; it was not, however, so far injured as not to be set a-going,
and it continued to go during the remainder of the journey: the only
use I have been able to make of his subsequent observations, was to
obtain the relative meridian distances between the points visited,
without the absolute longitude. It is needless to say, that I placed
little or no dependence on them, in constructing the map.
Although the horses had, with one or two exceptions, reached the
eastern side of the mountain, yet they, together with the Indians,
were very much exhausted. The time had now come when the Indians,
according to agreement, were to be paid off, and they had done much
more than they agreed to do, having crossed the mountain twice.
Finding the necessity of retaining all the blankets that had been
brought with them, in order to buy horses, Lieutenant Johnson proposed
to the Indians to receive an order on Nisqually, in lieu of the
immediate delivery of the blankets. This they readily assented to, and
also willingly gave up those that had already been paid them, on
receiving a similar order,--thus showing a spirit of accommodation
highly praiseworthy. Only two of them returned to Nisqually, to whom
were entrusted the botanical specimens, and the care of the horses
left upon the road.