As for me, I believe I am a born protestant, or "come-outer," as they

used to call dissenters in the early days of New England. I have not

yet had time to study the question, but as I lack all knowledge of the

other two branches of Presbyterianism, I am enabled to say

unhesitatingly that I belong to the Free Kirk. To begin with, the very

word "free" has a fascination for the citizen of a republic; and then

my theological training was begun this morning by a gifted young

minister of Edinburgh whom we call the Friar, because the first time

we saw him in his gown and bands (the little spot of sheer whiteness

beneath the chin, that lends such added spirituality to a spiritual

face) we fancied that he looked like some pale brother of the Church

in the olden time. His pallor, in a land of rosy redness and milky

whiteness; his smooth, fair hair, which in the light from the

stained-glass window above the pulpit looked reddish gold; the

Southern heat of passionate conviction that colored his slow Northern

speech; the remoteness of his personality; the weariness of his

deep-set eyes, that bespoke such fastings and vigils as he probably

never practiced,--all this led to our choice of the name.

As we walked toward St. Andrew's Church and Tanfield Hall, where he

insisted on taking me to get the "proper historical background," he

told me about the great Disruption movement. He was extremely

eloquent,--so eloquent that the image of Willie Beresford tottered

continually on its throne, and I found not the slightest difficulty in

giving an unswerving allegiance to the principles presented by such an

orator.

We went first to St. Andrew's, where the General Assembly met in 1843,

and where the famous exodus of the Free Protesting Church took

place,--one of the most important events in the modern history of the

United Kingdom.

The movement was promoted by the great Dr. Chalmers and his party,

mainly to abolish the patronage of livings, then in the hands of

certain heritors or patrons, who might appoint any minister they

wished, without consulting the congregation. Needless to say, as a

free-born American citizen, and never having had a heritor in the

family, my blood easily boiled at the recital of such tyranny. In 1834

the Church had passed a law of its own, it seems, ordaining that no

presentee to a parish should be admitted, if opposed by the majority

of the male communicants. That would have been well enough could the

State have been made to agree, though I should have gone further,

personally, and allowed the female communicants to have some voice in

the matter.

The Friar took me into a particularly chilly historic corner, and,

leaning against a damp stone pillar, painted the scene in St. Andrew's

when the Assembly met in the presence of a great body of spectators,

while a vast throng gathered without, breathlessly awaiting the

result. No one believed that any large number of ministers would

relinquish livings and stipends and cast their bread upon the waters

for what many thought a "fantastic principle." Yet when the Moderator

left his place, after reading a formal protest signed by one hundred

and twenty ministers and seventy-two elders, he was followed first by

Dr. Chalmers, and then by four hundred and seventy men, who marched in

a body to Tanfield Hall, where they formed themselves into the General

Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland. When Lord Jeffrey was told of

it an hour later, he exclaimed, "Thank God for Scotland! There is not

another country on earth where such a deed could be done!" And the

Friar reminded me proudly of Macaulay's saying that the Scots had made

sacrifices for the sake of religious opinion for which there was no

parallel in the annals of England. On the next Sunday after these

remarkable scenes in Edinburgh there were heart-breaking farewells, so

the Friar said, in many village parishes, when the minister, in

dismissing his congregation, told them that he had ceased to belong to

the Established Church and would neither preach nor pray in that

pulpit again; that he had joined the Free Protesting Church of

Scotland, and, God willing, would speak the next Sabbath morning at

the manse door to as many as cared to follow him. "What affecting

leave-takings there must have been!" the Friar exclaimed. "When my

grandfather left his church that May morning, only fifteen members

remained behind, and he could hear the more courageous say to the

timid ones, 'Tak' your Bible an' come awa' mon!' Was not all this a

splendid testimony to the power of principle and the sacred demands of

conscience?" I said "Yea" most heartily, for the spirit of Jenny

Geddes stirred within me that morning, and under the spell of the

Friar's kindling eye and eloquent voice I positively gloried in the

valiant achievements of the Free Church. It would always be easier for

a woman to say "Yea" than "Nay" to the Friar. When he left me in

Breadalbane Terrace I was at heart a member of his congregation in

good (and irregular) standing, ready to teach in his Sunday-school,

sing in his choir, visit his aged and sick poor, and especially to

stand between him and a too admiring feminine constituency.

When I entered the drawing-room, I found that Salemina had just

enjoyed an hour's conversation with the ex-Moderator of the opposite

church wing.

"Oh, my dear," she sighed, "you have missed such a treat! You have no

conception of these Scottish ministers of the Establishment,--such

culture, such courtliness of manner, such scholarship, such

spirituality, such wise benignity of opinion! I asked the doctor

to explain the Disruption movement to me, and he was most interesting

and lucid, and most affecting, too, when he described the

misunderstandings and misconceptions that the Church suffered in those

terrible days of 1843, when its very life-blood, as well as its

integrity and unity, was threatened by the foes in its own

household; when breaches of faith and trust occurred on all sides,

and dissents and disloyalties shook it to its very foundation! You

see, Penelope, I have never fully understood the disagreements

about heritors and livings and state control before, but here is the

whole matter in a nut-sh--"

"My dear Salemina," I interposed, with dignity, "you will pardon me, I

am sure, when I tell you that any discussion on this point would be

intensely painful to me, as I now belong to the Free Kirk."

"Where have you been this morning?" she asked, with a piercing

glance.

"To St. Andrew's and Tanfield Hall."

"With whom?"

"With the Friar."

"I see! Happy the missionary to whom you incline your ear,

_first_!"--which I thought rather inconsistent of Salemina, as she had

been converted by precisely the same methods and in precisely the same

length of time as had I, the only difference being in the ages of our

respective missionaries, one being about five and thirty, the other

five and sixty. Even this is to my credit after all, for if one can be

persuaded so quickly and fully by a young and comparatively

inexperienced man, it shows that one must be extremely susceptible to

spiritual influences or--something.

IX

Religion in Edinburgh is a theory, a convention, a fashion (both

humble and aristocratic), a sensation, an intellectual conviction, an

emotion, a dissipation, a sweet habit of the blood; in fact, it is, it

seems to me, every sort of thing it can be to the human spirit.

When we had finished our church toilettes, and came into the

drawing-room, on the first Sunday morning, I remember that we found

Francesca at the window.

"There is a battle, murder, or sudden death going on in the square

below," she said. "I am going to ask Susanna to ask Mrs. M'Collop what

it means. Never have I seen such a crowd moving peacefully, with no

excitement or confusion, in one direction. Where can the people be

going? Do you suppose it is a fire? Why, I believe ... it cannot be

possible ... yes, they certainly are disappearing in that big church

on the corner; and millions, simply millions and trillions, are coming

in the other direction,--toward St. Knox's."

Impressive as was this morning church-going, a still greater surprise

awaited us at seven o'clock in the evening, when the crowd blocked the

streets on two sides of a church near Breadalbane Terrace; and though

it was quite ten minutes before service when we entered, Salemina and

I only secured the last two seats in the aisle, and Francesca was

obliged to sit on the steps of the pulpit or seek a sermon elsewhere.

It amused me greatly to see Francesca sitting on pulpit steps, her

Paris gown and smart toque in close juxtaposition to the rusty bonnet

and bombazine dress of a respectable elderly tradeswoman. The church

officer entered first, bearing the great Bible and hymn-book, which he

reverently placed on the pulpit cushions; and close behind him, to our

entire astonishment, came the Reverend Ronald Macdonald, evidently

exchanging with the regular minister of the parish, whom we had come

especially to hear. I pitied Francesca's confusion and embarrassment,

but I was too far from her to offer an exchange of seats, and through

the long service she sat there at the feet of her foe, so near that

she could have touched the hem of his gown as he knelt devoutly for

his first silent prayer.

Perhaps she was thinking of her last interview with him, when she

descanted at length on that superfluity of naughtiness and Biblical

pedantry which, she asserted, made Scottish ministers preach from

out-of-the-way texts.

"I've never been able to find my place in the Bible since I arrived,"

she complained to Salemina, when she was quite sure that Mr. Macdonald

was listening to her; and this he generally was, in my opinion, no

matter who chanced to be talking. "What with their skipping and

hopping about from Haggai to Philemon, Habakkuk to Jude, and Micah to

Titus, in their readings, and then settling on seventh Nahum, sixth

Zephaniah or second Calathumpians for the sermon, I do nothing but

search the Scriptures in the Edinburgh churches,--search, search,

search, until some Christian by my side or in the pew behind me

notices my hapless plight, and hands me a Bible opened at the text.

Last Sunday it was Obadiah first, fifteenth, 'For the day of the Lord

is near upon all the heathen.' It chanced to be a returned missionary

who was preaching on that occasion; but the Bible is full of heathen,

and why need he have chosen a text from Obadiah, poor little Obadiah

one page long, slipped in between Amos and Jonah, where nobody but an

elder could find him?" If Francesca had not seen with wicked delight

the Reverend Ronald's expression of anxiety, she would never have

spoken of second Calathumpians; but of course he has no means of

knowing how unlike herself she is when in his company.

To go back to our first Sunday worship in Edinburgh. The church

officer closed the door of the pulpit on the Reverend Ronald, and I

thought I heard the clicking of a lock; at all events, he returned at

the close of the services to liberate him and escort him back to the

vestry; for the entrances and exits of this beadle, or "minister's

man," as the church officer is called in the country districts, form

an impressive part of the ceremonies. If he did lock the minister into

the pulpit, it is probably only another national custom, like the

occasional locking in of the passengers in a railway train, and may be

positively necessary in the case of such magnetic and popular

preachers as Mr. Macdonald or the Friar.

I have never seen such attention, such concentration, as in these

great congregations of the Edinburgh churches. As nearly as I can

judge, it is intellectual rather than emotional; but it is not a

tribute paid to eloquence alone, it is habitual and universal, and is

yielded loyally to insufferable dullness when occasion demands.

When the text is announced, there is an indescribable rhythmic

movement forward, followed by a concerted rustle of Bible leaves; not

the rustle of a few Bibles in a few pious pews, but the rustle of all

of them in all the pews,--and there are more Bibles in an Edinburgh

Presbyterian church than one ever sees anywhere else, unless it be in

the warehouses of the Bible Societies.

The text is read twice clearly, and another rhythmic movement follows

when the books are replaced on the shelves. Then there is a delightful

settling back of the entire congregation, a snuggling comfortably into

corners and a fitting of shoulders to the pews,--not to sleep,

however; an older generation may have done that under the strain of a

two-hour "wearifu' dreich" sermon, but these church-goers are not to

be caught napping. They wear, on the contrary, a keen, expectant,

critical look, which must be inexpressibly encouraging to the

minister, if he has anything to say. If he has not (and this is a

possibility in Edinburgh, as it is everywhere else), then I am sure it

is wisdom for the beadle to lock him in, lest he flee when he meets

those searching eyes.

The Edinburgh sermon, though doubtless softened in outline in these

later years, is still a more carefully built discourse than one

ordinarily hears out of Scotland, being constructed on conventional

lines of doctrine, exposition, logical inference, and practical

application. Though modern preachers do not announce the division of

their subject into heads and sub-heads, firstlies and secondlies and

finallies my brethren, there seems to be the old framework underneath

the sermon, and everyone recognizes it as moving silently below the

surface; at least, I always fancy that as the minister finishes one

point and attacks another the younger folk fix their eagle eyes on him

afresh, and the whole congregation sits up straighter and listens more

intently, as if making mental notes. They do not listen so much as if

they were enthralled, though they often are and have good reason to

be, but as if they were to pass an examination on the subject

afterwards; and I have no doubt that this is the fact.

The prayers are many, and are divided, apparently, like those of the

liturgies, into petitions, confessions, and aspirations; not

forgetting the all-embracing one with which we are perfectly familiar

in our native land, in which the preacher commends to the Fatherly

care every animate and inanimate thing not mentioned specifically in

the foregoing supplications. It was in the middle of this compendious

petition, "the lang prayer," that rheumatic old Scottish dames used to

make a practice of "cheengin' the fit," as they stood devoutly through

it. "When the meenister comes to the 'ingetherin' o' the Gentiles,' I

ken weel it's time to cheenge legs, for then the prayer is jist half

dune," said a good sermon-taster of Fife.

The organ is finding its way rapidly into the Scottish kirks (how can

the shade of John Knox endure a "kist o' whistles" in good St.

Giles'?), but it is not used yet in some of those we attend most

frequently. There is a certain quaint solemnity, a beautiful

austerity, in the unaccompanied singing of hymns that touches me

profoundly. I am often carried very high on the waves of splendid

church music, when the organ's thunder rolls "through vaulted aisles"

and the angelic voices of a trained choir chant the aspirations of my

soul for me; but when an Edinburgh congregation stands, and the

precentor leads in that noble Paraphrase,

"God of our fathers, be the God

Of their succeeding race,"

there is a certain ascetic fervor in it that seems to me the

perfection of worship. It may be that my Puritan ancestors are mainly

responsible for this feeling, or perhaps my recently adopted Jenny

Geddes is a factor in it; of course, if she were in the habit of

flinging fauldstules at Deans, she was probably the friend of truth

and the foe of beauty, so far as it was in her power to separate

them.

There is no music during the offertory in these churches, and this,

too, pleases my sense of the fitness of things. It cannot soften the

woe of the people who are disinclined to the giving away of money, and

the cheerful givers need no encouragement. For my part, I like to sit,

quite undistracted by soprano solos, and listen to the refined tinkle

of the sixpences and shillings, and the vulgar chink of the pennies

and ha'pennies, in the contribution-boxes. Country ministers, I am

told, develop such an acute sense of hearing that they can estimate

the amount of the collection before it is counted. There is often a

huge pewter plate just within the church door, in which the offerings

are placed as the worshipers enter or leave; and one always notes the

preponderance of silver at the morning, and of copper at the evening

services. It is perhaps needless to say that before Francesca had been

in Edinburgh a fortnight she asked Mr. Macdonald if it were true that

the Scots continued coining the farthing for years and years, merely

to have a piece of money serviceable for church offerings!

As to social differences in the congregations we are somewhat at sea.

We tried to arrive at a conclusion by the hats and bonnets, than which

there is usually no more infallible test. On our first Sunday we

attended the Free Kirk in the morning, and the Established in the

evening. The bonnets of the Free Kirk were so much the more elegant

that we said to one another, "This is evidently the church of society,

though the adjective 'Free' should by rights attract the masses." On

the second Sunday we reversed the order of things, and found the

Established bonnet much finer than the Free bonnets, which was a

source of mystification to us, until we discovered that it was a

question of morning or evening service, not of the form of

Presbyterianism. We think, on the whole, that, taking town and country

congregations together, millinery has not flourished under

Presbyterianism,--it seems to thrive better in the Romish atmosphere

of France; but the Disruption, at least, has had nothing to answer for

in the matter, as it appears simply to have parted the bonnets of

Scotland in twain, as Moses divided the Red Sea, and left good and

evil on both sides.

I can never forget our first military service at St. Giles'. We left

Breadalbane Terrace before nine in the morning and walked along the

beautiful curve of street that sweeps around the base of Castle

Rock,--walked on through the poverty and squalor of the High Street,

keeping in view the beautiful lantern tower as a guiding star, till we

heard

"The murmur of the city crowd;

And, from his steeple, jingling loud,

St. Giles's mingling din."

We joined the throng outside the venerable church, and awaited the

approach of the soldiers from the Castle parade-ground; for it is from

there they march in detachments to the church of their choice. A

religion they must have, and if, when called up and questioned about

it, they have forgotten to provide themselves, or have no preference

as to form of worship, they are assigned to one by the person in

authority. When the regiments are assembled on the parade-ground of a

Sunday morning, the first command is, "Church of Scotland, right about

face, quick march!"--the bodies of men belonging to other

denominations standing fast until their turn comes to move. It is said

that a new officer once gave the command, "Church of Scotland, right

about face, quick march! Fancy releegions, stay where ye are!"

Just as we were being told this story by an attendant squire, there

was a burst of scarlet and a blare of music, and down Castle Hill and

the Lawnmarket into Parliament Square marched hundreds of redcoats,

the Highland pipers (otherwise the Olympian gods) swinging in front,

leaving the American female heart prostrate beneath their victorious

tread. The strains of music that in the distance sounded so martial

and triumphant we recognized in a moment as "Abide with me," and never

did the fine old tune seem more majestic than when it marked a measure

for the steady tramp, tramp, tramp, of those soldierly feet. As "The

March of the Cameron Men," piped from the green steeps of Castle Hill,

had aroused in us thoughts of splendid victories on the battlefield,

so did this simple hymn awake the spirit of the church militant; a no

less stern, but more spiritual soldiership, in which "the fruit of

righteousness is sown in peace of them that make peace."

As I fell asleep on that first Sunday night in Edinburgh, after the

somewhat unusual experience of three church services in a single day,

three separate notes of memory floated in and out of the fabric of my

dreams: the sound of the soldiers' feet marching into old St. Giles'

to the strains of "Abide with me;" the voice of the Reverend Ronald

ringing out with manly insistence: "It is aspiration that counts, not

realization; pursuit, not achievement; quest, not conquest!"--and the

closing phrases of the Friar's prayer: "When Christ has forgiven us,

help us to forgive ourselves! Help us to forgive ourselves so fully

that we can even forget ourselves, remembering only Him! And so let

his kingdom come; we ask it for the King's sake, Amen."

X

Even at this time of Assemblies, when the atmosphere is almost

exclusively clerical and ecclesiastical, the two great church armies

represented here certainly conceal from the casual observer all

rivalries and jealousies, if indeed they cherish any. As for the two

dissenting bodies, the Church of the Disruption and the Church of the

Secession have been keeping company, so to speak, for some years, with

a distant eye to an eventual union. In the light of all this pleasant

toleration, it seems difficult to realize that earlier Edinburgh,

where, we learned from old parochial records of 1605, Margaret

Sinclair was cited by the Session of the Kirk for being at the Burne

for water on the Sabbath; that Janet Merling was ordered to make

public repentance for concealing a bairn unbaptized in her house for

the space of twenty weeks and calling said bairn Janet; that Pat

Richardson had to crave mercy for being found in his boat in time of

afternoon service; and that Janet Walker, accused of having visitors

in her house in sermon-time, had to confess her offense and on her

knees crave mercy of God _and_ the Kirk Session (which no doubt was

much worse) under penalty of a hundred pounds Scots. Possibly there

are people yet who would prefer to pay a hundred pounds rather than

hear a sermon, but they are few.

It was in the early seventeen hundred and thirties when Allan Ramsay,

"in fear and trembling of legal and clerical censure," lent out the

plays of Congreve and Farquhar from his famous High Street library. In

1756 it was that the Presbytery of Edinburgh suspended all clergymen

who had witnessed the representation of "Douglas," that virtuous

tragedy written, to the dismay of all Scotland, by a minister of the

Kirk. That the world, even the theological world, moves with tolerable

rapidity when once set in motion, is evinced by the fact that on Mrs.

Siddons' second engagement in Edinburgh, in the summer of 1785, vast

crowds gathered about the doors of the theatre, not at night alone,

but in the day, to secure places. It became necessary to admit them

first at three in the afternoon, and then at noon, and eventually "the

General Assembly of the Church then in session was compelled to

arrange its meetings with reference to the appearance of the great

actress." How one would have enjoyed hearing that Scotsman say, after

one of her most splendid flights of tragic passion, "That's no bad!"

We have read of her dismay at this ludicrous parsimony of praise, but

her self-respect must have been restored when the Edinburgh ladies

fainted by dozens during her impersonation of Isabella in "The Fatal

Marriage."

Since Scottish hospitality is well-nigh inexhaustible, it is not

strange that from the moment Edinburgh streets began to be crowded

with ministers, our drawing-room table began to bear shoals of

engraved invitations of every conceivable sort, all equally unfamiliar

to our American eyes.

"The Purse-Bearer is commanded by the Lord High Commissioner and the

Marchioness of Heatherdale to invite Miss Hamilton to a Garden Party

at the Palace of Holyrood House, on the 27th of May. _Weather

permitting_."

"The General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland admits Miss

Hamilton to any gallery on any day."

"The Marchioness of Heatherdale is At Home on the 26th of May from a

quarter past nine in the evening. Palace of Holyrood House."

"The Moderator of the General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland

is At Home in the Library of the New College on Saturday, the 22d May,

from eight to ten in the evening."

"The Moderator asks the pleasure of Miss Hamilton's presence at a

Breakfast to be given on the morning of the 25th of May at Dunedin

Hotel."

Penelope's Progress Being Such Extracts from the Commonplace Book of Penelope Hamilton As Relate to Her Experiences in Scotland · 第 4 / 13 段