speaks volumes in favor of the Cho-ca, which ought to be
immediately introduced in England. It will also, no doubt, interest
you to learn that the first cup of coffee ever introduced in Europe
was made and presented to Louis XIV, at his magnificent palace of
Versailles, by the Ambassador from the Sublime Porte in the year
1664, when the noble potentate, whose palate was as delicate as he
was himself great, pronounced it excellent; and immediately
perceived the immense advantage it would be to introduce such a
delicacy into France as food, which a short time after took place,
and was very successfully received there; also the chocolate, which
is made from cacao, was first introduced to the Cardinal Mazarin,
who, having partook of the first cup like Louis XIV. did of the
coffee, and not a worse judge than his illustrious master,
remunerated with a handsome reward its inventor. It is much to be
regretted that such interesting and useful subjects have never yet
attracted the attention of our great Painters, instead of
continually tracing on innumerable yards of canvass the horrors of
war, the destruction of a fleet by fire and water, the plague, the
storm, the earthquake, or an eruption and destruction of a city by
an avalanche or an inundation; if we cannot do without those
painful historical reminiscences, why not add to those mournful
collections a group of Louis XIV. and his court at Versailles,
where he, magnificently dressed, was receiving from the hands of
the said Pacha, not a cup of coffee, but a branch of that plant
covered with its precious berries; and why not also, as a pendant,
Mazarin surrounded by his satellites, taking the first cup of
chocolate; or the characteristic Voltaire pouring a cup of Cho-ca
to Frederic the Great in his tent on the field of Potsdam? These
subjects seem to have been entirely neglected in being immortalized
on canvass, why? because they have never done harm or evil to any
one; but, on the contrary, have, are, and ever will prove to be,
among the greatest boons ever conferred upon humanity: it would
also engrave in our minds, as well as in our history, to what
mortals we are indebted for the importation and introduction of
such important productions, which daily constitute a part of our
comforts, and have conferred an everlasting benefit on mankind;
but, as usual, dear Eloise, you will no doubt reproach me for
having so much enthusiasm; however, as on this subject you have
been tolerably quiet lately, I not only here inclose you the
receipt, but also two of the thin round cakes of this new aliment,
the Cho-ca, which will produce two cups by making it as follows:--
880. _Cho-ca._--Scrape or grate it; put a pint of milk in a stewpan or
chocolate-pot, and place it on the fire, with two ounces of sugar, boil
it, put the Cho-ca in it, and stir it well for two minutes, and serve.
ON CARVING.
You reproach me for not having said a word about carving; I have
not done so, as I think that is an accomplishment which our sex
need not study, but at the same time it is well to know a little of
it. It is rather difficult to give you a correct description
without drawings, but a few general remarks may be useful.
Cut Beef, Veal, Ham, Tongue, and Breasts of Poultry, with a sharp
knife, very thin; Mutton, Lamb, and Pork rather thicker.
Never rise from your seat to carve; never cut across the grain of
the meat, that is, not across the ribs of beef, as I have seen
some persons do, and Mr. B. tells me is often done at clubs, but it
is only those do so who do not know how to carve or appreciate the
true flavor of the meat.
Never place a fork through the back of a fowl, in order to carve
the leg and wings, but run the knife gently down each side the
breast, detaching the leg and wing at the same time, which is
greatly facilitated by the use of the Tendon Separator--one of
which I purchased at Bramah's, in Piccadilly; it is the greatest
boon ever conferred on a bad carver: the directions for using it
are given with it. If it was more generally used, there would be no
more birds flying across the table in the faces of guests; no more
turkeys deposited in a lady's or gentleman's lap; no more splashing
of gravy to spoil satin dresses; but all would be divided with the
greatest facility, and in the most elegant manner, and the poultry
would look much better at table.
Never cut up the body of poultry at table, that should always be
left; but game should be cut up, as many epicures prefer the
backbone. For a sirloin of beef the under part of the loin should
always be cut when hot, and the upper part cut straight from the
backbone towards the outside of the ribs, by this plan you will not
spoil the appearance of the joint.
Ribs of Beef should be carved in the same way, cutting thin and
slanting.
Round of Beef: cut a slice half an inch thick from the outside, and
then carve thin slices, with a little fat.
Aitch-bone, the same.
Fillet of Veal, the same.
Loin of Veal, carve as the Sirloin of Beef, serving some of the
kidney, and fat to each person.
Shoulder of Veal, begin from the knuckle, cut thin and slanting.
Saddle of Mutton will, if properly carved, serve a great many
persons; instead of cutting a long slice the whole length, put your
knife under the meat and cut it away from the bone, then cut it
like thin chops, serving lean and fat together; according to the
usual plan, a saddle of mutton will serve but few people, and the
flavor of the meat is not so good as when served this way.
Necks and Loins: the bones should be severed by a small meat-saw,
and not a chopper, and the bone cut through when serving, and carve
slanting.
Haunches are usually carved by making a cut near the knuckle and
cutting a slice from that through the loin; but by a plan I have
adopted, I find that the meat eats better, and the joint goes
farther. I carve it like the leg and saddle, that is, I cut a slice
out of the leg part and a slice from the loin, and serve together.
This is more economical, but would not do for venison.
Lamb.--For Leg and Shoulders, proceed as for Mutton. The Ribs, when
well prepared and the bones properly separated, carve into cutlets,
and serve with a piece of the brisket.
Quarter of Lamb: the ribs should be sawed through, and the bones
disjointed previous to cooking. The shoulder should be then nicely
removed, the seasoning added; then divide the ribs and serve one
part of the brisket to each person.
Pork: proceed like the Mutton.
In carving a Ham, remove a thick slice, of about one inch, flat cut
slantways from the knuckle-end--a Tongue, begin three inches from
the tip, and cut thin slanting slices.
LETTER No. XXI
THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.
MY DEAR ELOISE,--Having now arrived at the conclusion of our
labors, during which you have in many instances thought me rather
severe, and perhaps too _exigeant_ in my remarks, especially about
the selection, preparation, and cooking of food in general, which
even to the last I must maintain, that for want of judgment and a
little care, the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is
often destroyed, which constitutes a considerable waste, being of
no good to any one, but an evil to everybody; and when you consider
the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this
sublunary sphere during the course of our life, the truth of my
observation will be more apparent, and make you agree with me that
in every instance people ought really to devote more time, care,
and personal attention to their daily subsistence, it being the
most expensive department through life of human luxury. I shall,
for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it, which I am
confident you never before conceived. For this I shall propose to
take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond which age many
of that class of "bon vivants" arrive, and even above eighty, still
in the full enjoyment of degustation, &c., (for example,
Talleyrand, Cambacérès, Lord Sefton, &c.;) if the first of the said
epicures when entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary
career, had been placed on an eminence, say, the top of Primrose
hill, and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the enormous
quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before
he attained his seventy-first year,--first, he would believe it
must be a delusion; then, secondly, he would inquire, where the
money could come from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance?
But here I shall leave the pecuniary expenses on one side, which a
man of wealth can easily surmount when required. So now, dearest,
for the extraordinary fact: imagine on the top of the
above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth
year, surrounded with the recherché provision and delicacies
claimed by his rank and wealth, taking merely the medium
consumption of his daily meals. By closely calculating he would be
surrounded and gazed at by the following number of quadrupeds,
birds, fishes, &c.:--By no less than 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100
calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs; in poultry, 1200 fowls, 300 turkeys,
150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons; 1400 partridges, pheasants,
and grouse; 600 woodcocks and snipes; 600 wild ducks, widgeon, and
teal; 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves; 800 quails, ortolans, and
dotterels, and a few guillemôts and other foreign birds; also 500
hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and 360
wild fowl. In the way of fish, 120 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod, 260
trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 soles and slips, 400
flounders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 herrings,
5000 smelts, and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery
whitebait, besides a few hundred species of fresh-water fishes. In
shell-fish, 20 turtle, 30,000 oysters, 1500 lobsters or crabs,
300,000 prawns, shrimps, sardines and anchovies. In the way of
fruit, about 500 lbs. of grapes, 360 lbs. of pine-apples, 600
peaches, 1400 apricots, 240 melons, and some hundred thousand
plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of cherries,
strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abundance
of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chestnuts, dry figs and plums.
In vegetables of all kinds, 5475 pounds weight, and about 2434¾
pounds of butter, 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do.
plovers'. Of bread, 4½ tons, half a ton of salt and pepper, near
2½ tons of sugar; and, if he had happened to be a covetous boy,
he could have formed a fortification or moat round the said hill
with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the
digestion of the above-named provisions, which would amount to no
less than 11,673¾ gallons, which may be taken as below:--49
hogsheads of wine, 1368¾ gallons of beer, 584 gallons of
spirits, 342 liqueur, 2394¾ gallons of coffee, cocoa, tea, &c.,
and 304 gallons of milk, 2736 gallons of water, all of which would
actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young
thief or fellow schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante
and his immense treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte
Christo. You now, dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every
way; but to convince you, and to prevent your puzzling your brain
to no purpose, I also enclose you a medium scale of the regular
meals of the day, from which I have taken my basis, and in sixty
years it amounts to no less than 33¾ tons weight of meat,
farinaceous food and vegetables, &c.; out of which I have named in
detail the probable delicacies that would be selected by an epicure
through life. But observe that I did not count the first ten years
of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap, bread and
milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to the
age from then to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure
before that age; it will thus make the expenses more equal as
regards the calculation. The following is the list of what I
consider his daily meals:--
_Breakfast._--Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of
bread, one ounce of butter, two eggs, or four ounces of meat, or
four ounces of fish.
_Lunch._--Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or
game, two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass
of wine.
_Dinner._--Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half
a pound of meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a
pound of savory dishes or game, two ounces of vegetables, two
ounces of bread, two ounces of pastry or roasts, half an ounce of
cheese, a quarter of a pound of fruit, one pint of wine, one glass
of liqueur, one cup of coffee or tea; at night one glass of spirits
and water.
Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will
give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting
the attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and
useful art of cookery by our middle classes. I shall also observe
to you, that those masses of provisions above described in the
exposé of sixty years, have been selected, dressed, and served, by
scientific hands, every real epicure choosing through life the best
cook, and consequently the best of provisions, which, had they have
fallen into the hands of inexperienced persons, would very likely
have wasted one third, thereby increasing the expenses, and never
giving any real satisfaction to the consumer; therefore let us act
in a small way as becomes us, as it is for the wealthy according to
their incomes; let every housekeeper devote more time to the study
of domestic and practical economy; in many instances it will
increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts, as I
remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the
most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul of
sociability, require more attention bestowed upon it than is done
at the present day.
Fare you well,
HORTENSE.
INDEX.
Acid, 57
A-la-mode Beef, 164, 165
Albumen, 158
Almond Water, 42
Almond Cake, Iced, 304
Ice, White, 297
Aitch-Bone of Beef, 122
Aliment, a New, 345
Apple Bread, 284
Charlotte, 282
Compote, 307, 308
Dumplings, 294
Flanc, 275
Fritters, 281
Jelly, 320
sauté in Butter, 285
Pie, 296
Pudding, 294
Vol-au-Vent, 273
Apples, Baked, 45
and Fig Beverage, 45
and Rice Pudding, 47
with Rice, 283
with Butter, 284
Apricot Compote, 308, 309, 310
Fritters, 282
Ice Cream, 317
Marmalade, 318
Nougat, 278
Pudding, 294
Arrow-root, 39
Jelly, 40
Water, 44
Broth, 34
Artichokes, 259
Jerusalem, 81, 259
Asparagus, 253
with Eggs, 217
Aspic of Meat, 240
Bacon, to choose, 18, 140
to boil, 141
to broil, 19
Baking, on, 60
Barley Lemonade, 42
Barley Orangeade, 43
Barley Water, 41
Batter for Fritters, 305
Beans, Broad, 259
French, 259
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 259
Haricot, 260
Young, 260
à la Bretonne, 261
Beef, on, 118
A-la-mode, 164, 165
Aitch-Bone of, 122
Brisket of, 122
Croquettes of, 167
Choice of, 118
Essence of, 36
Family Salad of, 167
Fillets of, Broiled, 165
Sauté, 166
to hang, 118
Hashed, 158
Minced, 166
Miroton, 159, 160
Palates, 160
à la Bretonne, 161
à la Poulette, 161
à la Maître d'Hôtel, 161
Pickle for, à la Garrick, 242
Pressed, 242
remains of, 158
Ribs of, Braised, 119
Larded, 241
Roasted, 119
Round of, Salted, 121
cold, 121
Rump Steak, Stewed, 164
Half-round of, silver side, 121
Salt, remains of, 169
Salt, Bubble and Squeak, 163
Sirloin of, 119
Stewed Rump of, 120
Spiced, 242
Tea, 36
Beignet Soufflé, 281
Beet-root, 258
Beurre Noir, or Black Butter, 98
Beverage, Refreshing, 43, 44
Bills of Fare, 339
Biscuit Soufflé, 301
Cocoa-Nut, 325
Cream, 326
Moss, 325
Rout, 325
Blackberry Pudding, 294
Black-Pudding, broiled, 20
Blancmange, 290
Bloaters, 15
Boiling, on, 60
Boudins of Fowl, 197
Turkey, 197
Bottoms and Tops, to make, 11
Braising, on, 60
Braise-Roast, 147
Boil, 148
Bread, to make, 10
and Milk, 30
and Apple, 284
Breakfast Table, 7, 26
Brocoli, 257
Broiling, 63
Broth, Arrow-root, 34
Chicken, 37, 53
Eel, 38
Mutton, 33
Rice, 34
French Herb, 44
Seasoned, 33
Semoulina, 34
Turkey, 147
Various, 34
Vermicelli, 34
Veal, 35
Brown Stock, 77
Browning, 78
Brioche Rolls, to make, 12
Brussels Sprouts, 259
Bubble and Squeak, 163
Buns, to make, 12
Butter, 334
Anchovy, 117
Burnt, 217
Lobster, 117
Melted, 112
Maître d'Hôtel, 117
Ravigote, 117
Cacao, 25
Cake, Almond, 325
Cinnamon, 326
Ginger, 326
Pound, 324
Queen's, 324
Rout, 325
Savoy, in Moulds, 322
Cake, Savoy, or Ladies' Fingers, 323
Shrewsbury, 326
Sponge, 323
small, 324
St. James's, 327
Royal Iceing for, 312
Calf's Brains, à la Maître d'Hôtel, 175
fried, 175
to prepare, 128
Ears, stewed, 174
Feet, 53, 214, 240
Feet Jelly, 286
Head, 128, 130
Curry, 213
Hollandaise, 130
with Mushrooms, 130
with Tomatos, 130
Heart, roasted, 172
Liver, English fashion, 172
fried, 175
sautéd, 172
stewed, 175
Sweetbreads, 173
au Gratin, 174
another way, 173
Caper Sauce, 113
Capillaire, 330
Capon, boiled, 151
and Cresses, 227
à l'Estragon, 157
Pie, 236
Roast, 150
Roast braised, 147
Stewed, 151
Capilotade of Poultry, 193
Carp, baked, 106
Sauce Matelote, 106
Carrot Pudding, 292
with Poulards, 152
Soup, 89
White, 89
Sauce, 73
Carving, 346
Cauliflower, 257
Gratin, with Cheese, 257
Purée, Soup, 71, 89
Celery, 256
Cheesecakes, 229
Lemon, 280
Maids of Honor, 280
Puff, 303
Cheese Soufflé, 304
Raminole, 303
Charlotte, Apple, 282
Russe, 289
Cheese, to make, 304
Charlotte, Strawberry, 289
Chartreuse of Fruit, 290
Cherry Draught, 44
Compote, 309, 311
Cherry Marmalade, 319
Omelette, 281
Vol-au-Vent, 271
Pudding, 295
Chestnut Pudding, 296
Chicken, Boiled, 53, 193
Braised, 192
Broth, 37, 53
Curry, 210
Italian way, 153
Pie, 203
Roast Braised, 192
Roast, for Invalids, 53
Spring, 228
Stewed, 150
Chicorée Sauce, 72
Choice of Pork, 139
Choca, 345, 346
Chocolate, 25
Italian, 25
Iceing for Cakes, 312
Ice Cream, 316
Choice of Meat, 118
Chopping of Herbs, 267
Chump of Veal, 125, 127
Clear Soup, 79
Clarify Stock, to, 79
Cock-a-leekie Soup, 83
Cocoa, 25, 26
Nut Biscuits, 325
Cod, Boiled, 95
with Oysters, 95
Coffee, on, 20
to choose, 22
where first used in London, 21
to make, 22
French, 23
White, 23
made with a filter, 24
another way, 24
Cold Ham, 141, 240
Conger Eel, Stewed, 110
Confectioner's Paste, 270
Conversation on Household Affairs, 336
Compote of Pigeons, 200
of Fruits, 310
Cooling Drink, 42
Lemonade, 45
Cow Heels, 169
Crab Curry, 215
Cranberry Pie, 296
Cresses with Pullet, 227
Cream, Bohemian Jelly, 288
Clouted, 335
Coffee Soufflé, 302
Coffee Ice, 316
Pastry Sauté, 286
Omelette Soufflé, 301
Rice, 299
Sauce, 116
with Spinach, 260
Crécy Soup, 89
Croquettes of Fowl, 195
Macaroni, 285
Rice, 285
Crumpets, to make, 11
to toast, 9
to serve, 10
Crusts of Fruit, 278
Madeira, 279
Cucumbers, 258
Brown Sauce, 67
White Sauce, 71, 73
with Poulards, 152
Curaçao Jelly, 287
Currant Jelly, 320
with Omelette, 281
Red, White & Black for Puddings, 294
and Raspberry Pie, 295
Compote, 311
Salad, 322
Sweetmeat of, 320
Curry, Beef, 212
Calf's Head, Feet, and Tail, 213, 214
Chicken, 210
with Paste, 210
Crab, 215
Fillets of Haddock, 216
Sole, 216
Whiting, 216
Game, 221
Lamb, 212, 213
Lamb's Head, 214
Lobster, 214
Mutton, 212
Ox Tail, 214
Oyster, 215
Pork, 212
Prawn, 215
Rabbit, 211
Salmon, 215
Skate, 216
Sauce, 69
Tripe, 214
Turbot, 216
Veal, 211
Breast of, 212
Custard Pudding, 47, 364
Damson Pie, 295
Pudding, 294
Dartoise Fourrée, 278
Demi-Plum Pudding, 292
Dessert, 305
Dewberry and Raspberry Pie, 295
Diablotins, 304
Dinner, Nursery, 28
Table, 327
D'Office, Paste, 270
Dried Haddock, 16
Mackerel, 97
Sprats, 17
Draught, Cherry, 44
Drink, Cooling, 42
New, 41
Strengthening, 43
Dry Toast, 9
Ducks, on, 156
à l'Aubergiste, 157
to choose, 156
Roasted, 156
Stewed with Peas, 156, 198
Turnips, 157, 199
Varieties of, 156
Ducklings, 228
Pie, 236
Stewed with Peas, 156
Turnips, 157
Remains of, 157
Duck, Wild, 230
Hashed, 225
with Orange Sauce, 225
Ears, Calf's, Stewed, 174
Ecarlate of Fowl, 153
Eels, on, 109
to kill, 109
Broth, 38
Fried, 109
Pie, 205
Spitchcocked, 110
Skinned, 109
Stewed, 109
à la Tartare, 110
Effects of Fish, 93
Eggs au Beurre, 13
Baked, 216
with Asparagus, 217
with burnt Butter, 217
Hard, 14
in Cases, 218
with Cheese, 218
to choose, 12
with Green Peas, 217
with Ham, 19
plain Boiled, 13
Poached, 14
Mashed, 217
Meagre, 217
with Mushrooms, 217
Sauce, 112
Snow, 217
with Sprue Grass, 217
sur le plat, 14
and Toast, 14
à la Tripe, 217
Endive Sauce or Purée, 72
Entrées, or Made Dishes, 158
of Game, 220
Epicure, the Septuagenarian, 348
Escalops, 250
Escaloped Oysters, 250
Eschalot Sauce, 66
Essence of Beef, 36
Fennel Sauce, 112
Feet, Lamb's, 52, 185
Ox, 169
Calf's, 53
Fish, on, 93
French-Anglais way of stewing 110
for Breakfast, 15
Carp, 106
Cod, 95
Conger Eel, 110
Eels, 109
Effects of, 93
Forcemeat of, 252
Flounders, 104
Haddock, 96
Herrings, 100
Mackerel, 97
Maids, 104
Perch, 108
Pike, 105
Red Mullet, or Sur Mullet, 99
Salmon, 94
Sauces, 111
Salad, 247
Salt, 95
Skate, 104
Smelts, 101
Soles, 103
Sturgeon, 96, 97
Tench, 108
Trout, 107
Turbot, 102
White Bait, 101
Whiting, 99
Fish, Shell--
Escalops, 250
Oysters, 250
Razor or Solen, 250
Prawns, 250
Shrimps, 251
Fisherman's Soup, 86
Fillet of Beef, broiled, 165
Veal, cold, 241
roast, 125
Flancs, 274
Flanc of Apple, 275
Fruit, 274
Meringue, 274
what they are, 158
Flounders, on, 104
Water Souchet, 104
Fried, 101
Food, light, for invalids, 33
Forcemeat, on, 251
to make, 251
of Fish, 252
Panada for, 252
of Veal, 253
of Whitings, 252
Fondu, Parmesan, 302
Neapolitan, 302
simple, 302
Stilton Cheese, 303
Fourrée, Dartoise, 278
Gâteau, 277
Rissole, 276
Fowls, on, 149
Blanquettes of, 194
Boiled, 194
Braised, 194
Broiled, 194, 195
Boudins of, 197
Croquettes of, 195
Fricassée of, 195
Fried, 193
Hashed, Indian, 193
Italian way, 153
à l'Ecarlate, 153
à la Marengo, 196
Minced, 194
Pie, 235
Pillau, 209
Pulled, for invalids, 54
Roast braised, 148
Sauté, 194, 196, 197, 199
Salad, 249
to truss, 150
Fowl, Guinea, 229
Pea, 229
French Beans, 259
Coffee, 23
Herb Broth, 44
Panada, 41, 252
Remedy for Colds, 38
Plums Compote, 309
Fritadella, 190
Fritters, Apple, 282
Apricot, 282
Orange, 282
Peach, 282
Soufflé, 282
Fruit, Chartreuse of, 298
Crusts, 278
Flanc of, 274
Rissolettes, 273
Puddings, 294
Pies, 296
Salads of, 321, 322
Vol-au-Vent, 271
Wall, 295
Fricandeau of Veal, 170
to carve, 171
to dress, 171
Various ways, 171
Fritadella, 190
Frying, on, 61
Fry, Lamb's, 138
Fumet de Gibier Sauce, 233
Game, choice of, 229
to keep, 229
Made-dishes of, 220
Salad of, 248
Soup, 92
Tureen of, 237
Entrées of, 220
Dunbird, 231
Garganey, 231
Gorcock, 230
Grouse, 230
Red, 230
White, 230
Half Birds, 231
Lark, 232
Moorcock, or Gorcock, 230
Moor-game, 230
Partridge, 230
Red-legged, 230
Pea Fowl, 229
Pheasant, 229
Hybrid, 229
Plovers, 231
Pochard, 231
Ptarmigan, 230
Quails, 232
Red Heads, 231
Snipes, 232
Teal, 231
Whim, 231
Whewer, 231
Widgeons, 231
Great Headed, 231
Woodcock, 231
Garlic Sauce, 68
Garniture for Omelettes, 219
Garum Sauce, 111
Sociorum, 111
Gâteau Fourré, 277
Galantine, to cook, 238
Jelly, 287
Turkey, 238
Veal, 241
how got, 117
Gibelote of Rabbit, 200
Giblets, 85, 155
Glaze, 78
Gold Jelly, 287
Goose, 153
to choose, 153
Giblets, 155
Hashed, 199
Pie, 236
Preserved, 155
Stewed, 155
Stuffing, 154
Roasted, 154, 155
Trussed, 154
Gooseberry, Green, Compote, 311
Pie, 295
Pudding, 294
Vol-au-Vent, 272
with Rhubarb, 297
Gosling, Roast, 228
Grass, Sprue, 255
Gratin of Lobster, 245
Gravy, Brown, 77
Spinach and, 260
Turkey, 145
Greengage Compote, 308, 311
Greengage Pudding, 294
Groats, Scotch, Gruel, 40
Grouse Pie, 204, 236
Scotch Plan of Cooking, 222
Gruel, 40
Sago, 40
Guinea Fowls, Roasted, 229
Haddocks, Baked, 96
Dried, 16
Fillets of, 216
Ham, Cold, 141, 240
and Eggs, 19
Hot, 141
Hamburgh Beef, 122
Hard Eggs, 14
Hare, Jugged, 226, 227
Roasted, 233
Haricot Beans, 260
Hartshorn Jelly, 287
Haunch of Mutton, 130
Venison, 142
Head, Calf's, 128, 130
Hollandaise, 130
with Mushrooms, 130
Tomatos, 130
Curry, 213
Lamb's, 138
Pig's, 243
Pig's, Sauce for, 243
Pig's, to braise, 243
Heart, Calf's, Roasted, 172
Lamb's, 185
Sheep's, 184
Herbs with Omelette, 219
Minced, Sauce, 67
Italian Sauce, 67
Chopping, 267
Herrings, Boiled, 100
Broiled, 100
Toast, 15
Hotch Potch, 87
Ice, Almond, White, 297
Apricot, 317
Chocolate, 316
Coffee, 316
Lemon, 316
Orange, 317
Pine Apple, 316
Strawberry, 317
Vanilla, 315
Iced Almond Cake, 304
Imperial, 46
Indian Hash, 193
Invalids, Comforts for, 33
Fish for, 49
Food, 33
Meat, 33, 51
Partridges, 54
Pigeons, 54
Poultry, 53
Puddings, 47
Irish Stew, 178
Soup, 82
Isinglass Jelly, 287
Italian Drops, 327
Jam, Apricot, 318
Quince, 318
Raspberry, 319
Strawberry, 319
Jardinière, Neck of Lamb, 136
Sauce, 137
Jelly, Apple, 320
Arrow-root, 40
Bohemian Cream, 288
Calf's Foot, 286
Curaçao, 287
Currant, 320
Gelatine, 287
Gold, 287
Hartshorn, 287
Isinglass, 287
Marasquino, 287
Lemon, 288
Orange, 288
Punch, 287
Quince, 287, 320
Rum, 287
Silver, 287
Whipped, 288
of Meat, to clarify, 239
Jesuits, Turkeys, so called, 144
Julienne Soup, 81
Kidneys, Bread-crumbed, 18
Maître d'Hôtel, 18
on Toast, 17
Ox, 168
Omelette of, 220
Pudding, 168, 207
Sautéd, 18
Sheep's, 17, 176
Kidney Beans, 259
Knuckle of Veal, 127, 240
Lait de Poule, 38
Sweet, 38