for broth, but the scrag ends of the neck are usually chosen; put two
scrags into a stewpan (having previously jointed the bones), with three
onions, three turnips, and one carrot, fill up the stewpan with a gallon
of water, and place it upon the fire; when boiling set it at the corner,
where let it simmer for three hours, keeping it well skimmed; then cut a
small carrot, two turnips, an onion, with a little leek and celery, into
small square pieces, which put into another stewpan, with a wineglassful
of pearl-barley; skim every particle of fat from the broth, which pour
through a hair sieve over them; let the whole boil gently at the corner
of the fire until the barley is tender, when it is ready to serve; the
meat may be trimmed into neat pieces and served with the broth, or
separately with melted butter and parsley, or onion sauce. Half or even
a quarter of the above quantity can be made by reducing the ingredients
in proportion.
192. _Irish Soup made of Mutton Broth._--This soup is made similar to
the last, adding ten or twelve mealy potatoes, cut into large dice,
omitting the other vegetables, which, being boiled to a purée, thickens
the broth; just before serving, throw in twenty heads of parsley, and at
the same time add a few flowers of marigold, which will really give it a
very pleasing flavor.
193. _Scotch Cock-a-leekie._--Trim two or three bunches of fine winter
leeks, cutting off the roots and part of the heads, then split each in
halves lengthwise, and each half into three, which wash well in two or
three waters, then put them into a stewpan, with a stock previously made
as directed (No. 175), and a fowl trussed as for boiling; let the whole
simmer very gently at the corner of the fire for three hours, keeping it
well skimmed, seasoning a little if required; half an hour before
serving add two dozen French plums, without breaking them; when ready to
serve, take out the fowl, which cut into neat pieces, place them in a
tureen, and pour the leeks and broth over, the leeks being then partly
in purée; if too thick, however, add a drop more broth or water. Should
the leeks happen to be old and strong, it would be better to blanch them
five minutes in a gallon of boiling water previous to putting them in
the stock.
I prefer a young fowl; but, should an old one be most handy, stew it a
short time in the stock before passing it. This soup will keep good
several days, and would improve by warming a second time.
194. _Ox-tail Soup._--Cut up two ox-tails, separating them at the
joints, put a small piece of butter at the bottom of a stewpan, then put
in the ox-tails, with a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of
celery, a leek, and a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; and half a
pint of water, and twelve grains of whole pepper, set over a sharp fire,
stirring occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a
thickish brown glaze, then add a quarter of a pound of flour, stir it
well in, and fill up the stewpan with three quarts of water, add a
tablespoonful of salt, and stir occasionally until boiling, when set it
upon the corner of the stove, skim well, add a gill of good brown gravy,
or a few drops of browning, and let simmer until the tails are stewed
very tender, the flesh coming easily from the bones, then take them out
immediately, and put them into your tureen; pass the soup through a hair
sieve over them, add a head of celery, previously cut small, and boiled
in a little stock, and serve.
Ox-tail soup may also be made clear by omitting the flour, and serving
with vegetables, as directed for the clear vegetable soup (No. 181).
195. _Ox-cheek Soup._--Blanch in boiling water two ox-cheeks, cut off
the beard, take away all the bone, which chop up, and cut the flesh into
middling-sized pieces, leaving the cheek-part whole; put all together
into a stewpan, with four quarts of water, a little salt, ten
peppercorns, two carrots, two turnips, one leek, one head of celery, and
a bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf; let it stew at the corner of
the fire six hours, keeping it well skimmed, then take out the fleshy
part of the cheeks, and pass the broth through a hair-sieve into another
stewpan; mix a quarter of a pound of flour with a pint of cold broth,
which pour into it, and stir over the fire until boiling, when place it
at the corner (adding two heads of celery, cut very fine, and a glass of
sherry); when the celery is tender, cut the meat into small square
pieces, keep them warm in the tureen, and when the soup is ready, pour
over, and serve; give it a nice color with browning.
Sheeps' or lambs' heads also make very good soup by following the above
receipt, and adding two pounds of veal, mutton, or beef to the stock:
two heads would be sufficient, and they would not require so long to
stew.
196. _White Mock-turtle Soup._--Procure half a calf's head (scalded, not
skinned), bone it, then cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a
stewpan, well buttered at the bottom, with half a pound of lean ham, an
ounce of salt, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a head of celery, a
leek, a bunch of parsley, and a bay-leaf, add half a pint of water; set
it upon the fire, moving it round occasionally, until the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with a white glaze; then add six quarts of water, and
put in the half head, let simmer upon the corner of the fire for two
hours and a half, or until the head is tender, then take it out, and
press it between two dishes, and pass the stock through a hair sieve
into a basin; then in another stewpan have a quarter of a pound of
butter, with a sprig of thyme, basil, marjoram, and bay-leaf, let the
butter get quite hot, then add six ounces of flour to form a roux, stir
over a sharp fire a few minutes, keeping it quite white; stand it off
the fire to cool, then add the stock, stir over the fire until boiling,
then stand it at the corner, skim off all the fat, and pass it through a
hair sieve into another stewpan; cut the head into pieces an inch
square, but not too thick, and put them into the soup, which season with
a little cayenne pepper; when the pieces are hot, add a gill of cream,
and pour it into your tureen.
The above quantity would make two tureens of soup, and will keep good
several days, but of course half the quantity could be made.
197. _Brown Mock-turtle._--Proceed the same as in the last article, only
coloring the stock by drawing it down to a brown glaze, likewise adding
half a pint of brown gravy (No. 177), omitting the cream, and adding two
glasses of sherry.
198. _Mulligatawny Soup._--Cut up a knuckle of veal, which put into a
stewpan, with a piece of butter, half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a
turnip, three onions, and six apples, add half a pint of water; set the
stewpan over a sharp fire, moving the meat round occasionally, let
remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze,
then add three tablespoonfuls of curry powder, one of curry paste, and
half a pound of flour, stir well in, and fill the stewpan with a gallon
of water; add a spoonful of salt, the half of one of sugar, when
boiling, place it at the corner of the fire, and let it simmer two hours
and a half, skimming off all the fat as it rises, then pass it through a
tammy into a tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, and put it back in
the stewpan to boil, and serve with plain boiled rice separate. Ox-tails
or pieces of rabbits, chickens, &c., left from a previous dinner may be
served in it instead of the veal. The veal is exceedingly good to eat.
199. _Giblet Soup._--Clean two sets of giblets, which soak for two
hours, cut them into equal sizes, and put them into a stewpan, with a
quarter of a pound of butter, four pounds of veal or beef, half a pound
of ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, two ounces of salt, and a
bunch of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves; place the stewpan over a sharp
fire, stirring the meat round occasionally; when the bottom of the
stewpan is covered with a light glaze, add a quarter of a pound of
flour, stir well in, and fill up with a gallon of water, add about a
pint of brown gravy (No. 177), stir occasionally until boiling, then set
it at the corner of the stove to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; when
the giblets are tender, take them out, put them into your tureen, pass
the soup through a hair sieve over, and serve; twenty cooked button
onions, or any small-shaped vegetables served in it, is very good, as is
also a glass of port wine.
200. _Oyster Soup._--Put four dozen of oysters into a stewpan with their
liquor, place them upon the fire, when upon the point of boiling, drain
them upon a sieve, catching the liquor in a basin; take off the beards,
which put into the liquor, putting the oysters into a soup tureen; then
put a quarter of a pound of butter into another stewpan over the fire,
and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir over a slow fire for a
short time, but keeping it quite white; let it cool, then add the liquor
and beards of the oysters, a quart of milk, and two quarts of stock (No.
175), stir over the fire until boiling, then season with a teaspoonful
of salt, half a saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, five peppercorns, half a
blade of mace, a tablespoonful of Harvey sauce, half ditto of essence of
anchovies; let boil quickly at the corner for ten minutes, skim it well,
add a gill of cream, if handy, strain through a hair sieve over the
oysters, and serve.
201. _The Fisherman's Soup._--Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a
stewpan, and when melted add six ounces of flour, stir well together
over a slow fire a few minutes, when cool, add one quart of milk, and
two quarts of stock (No. 175), stir over a fire until boiling; having
previously filleted two soles, add the bones and trimmings to the soup,
with four cloves, one blade of mace, two bay-leaves, one spoonful of
essence of anchovies, one ditto of Harvey sauce, half a saltspoonful of
cayenne, a little sugar and salt if required; let the whole boil quickly
at the corner for ten minutes, keeping it well skimmed; cut each fillet
of sole into six pieces, put them into another stewpan, with half a
handful of picked parsley, pass the soup through a hair sieve over, boil
again ten minutes, add a gill of cream, if handy, and it is ready to
serve.
202. _Autumn Soup._--Cut up four cabbage-lettuces, one cos ditto, a
handful of sorrel, and a little tarragon and chervil, when well washed
and drained, put them into a stewpan, with two cucumbers finely sliced,
and two ounces of butter, place them over a brisk fire, stirring
occasionally, until very little liquid remains, then add two
tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring it well in, then pour over three
quarts of stock, made as directed (No. 175), adding a quart of young and
fresh green peas; half an hour's boiling will suffice for this delicious
soup, and the flavor of the vegetables will be fully preserved; season
with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar.
203. _Hodge Podge._--Cut two pounds of fresh scrag of mutton into small
pieces, which put into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water and a
tablespoonful of salt, set it upon the fire, and when boiling place it
at the corner to simmer, keeping it well skimmed; let it simmer an hour,
then add a good-sized carrot, two turnips, two large onions cut into
small dice, and six cabbage-lettuces, if in season (the whole well
washed), and let simmer until quite tender; skim off all the fat, and
serve either with the meat in the soup or separately. If in season, a
pint of green peas boiled in the soup is a great improvement.
204. _French Cabbage Soup._--This is a soup very much in vogue amongst
the middle classes of the French people; it is very economical, and may
satisfy a numerous family at a trifling expense. Put a gallon of water
into a saucepan, with two pounds of streaky pickled pork or bacon,
whichever most convenient, to which add a couple of pounds of white
cabbage, cut in strips (using every part but the stalk, and previously
well washed), two large onions, a carrot, a turnip, and a head of
celery; let the whole boil three or four hours, until the pork is
tender, skimming off all the fat, season with a little black pepper,
brown sugar, and salt, if required (which is not very frequently the
case, the pork or bacon generally being sufficiently so), lay slices of
bread in your tureen (about one pound), pour the soup over; keep the
tureen covered ten minutes, until the bread is soaked, and it is ready
to serve. The pork or bacon may be either served separate or cut into
small square pieces, and served in the soup. A few mealy potatoes are
sometimes introduced, or a quart of large green peas, or a pint of dry
split peas. You must observe that vegetables in France are much more
used than in this country, as there are but few poor people there who do
not possess a little garden, in which they grow their own.
It is also frequently made _maigre_ by omitting the pork or bacon,
adding more vegetables of all kinds, and a quarter of a pound of butter,
and frequently where they have nothing else but cabbage, they make it
only of that; now setting all national feeling aside respecting the
poverty of their meals, I have known strong healthy men make a hearty
meal of it, preferring it to meat, of which they scarcely ever partake.
205. _Purée of Vegetable Soup._--Peel and cut up very finely three
onions, three turnips, one carrot, and four potatoes, which put into a
stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, and
a bunch of parsley; pass them ten minutes over a sharp fire, when add a
good spoonful of flour, which mix well in, add two quarts of stock, and
a pint of boiling milk, stir it until boiling; season with a little salt
and sugar, rub it through a tammy, put it into another stewpan, boil
again, skim and serve with croutons of fried bread as for Palestine
Soup. It ought to be thickish.
206. _Palestine Soup, or Purée of Artichokes._--Have a quarter of a
pound of lean bacon or ham, as also an onion, a turnip, and a little
celery, cut the whole into small thin slices, and put them into a
stewpan, with two ounces of butter; place them over a sharp fire,
keeping them stirred, about twenty minutes, or until forming a whitish
glaze at the bottom, then have ready washed, peeled, and cut into thin
slices, the artichokes, which put into the stewpan with a pint of broth
or water, and stew until quite tender, then mix in two tablespoonfuls of
flour quite smoothly, add two quarts of stock made as directed (No.
175), and half a pint of milk; keep it constantly stirred until boiling;
season with a teaspoonful of salt, and two of sugar, then rub it through
a tammy, place it again in a stewpan; let it boil five minutes, keeping
it well skimmed, and serve with very small croutons of bread (fried in
butter, and dried upon a cloth) in the tureen; a gill of cream, stirred
in at the moment of serving, is a great improvement, although it may be
omitted.
207. _Purée of Cauliflower Soup._--Proceed as described for the purée of
artichokes, but omitting the artichokes, and substituting four
middling-sized cauliflowers, previously boiled and chopped fine.
A purée of turnips is likewise made in the same manner as a purée of
artichokes, substituting turnips for artichokes, and adding half a
tablespoonful more of flour. A purée of white Belgian carrot, called
"Crécy à la Reine," is made in the same way, and is uncommon and
delicate.
208. _Crécy Soup, or Purée of Carrots._--Procure five or six large
carrots, as red as possible, which well scrape, then shave them into
very thin slices, taking off all the exterior red, but not using the
centre, then peel and slice a large onion, a turnip, a quarter of a
pound of lean ham, a few sprigs of parsley, and two bay-leaves; put them
into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, fry the whole of a light
yellowish color, then add the carrot, with a pint of water, and let them
stew until perfectly tender, mix in two ounces of flour quite smoothly,
and add five pints of stock (No. 175); season with a little salt and
sugar, and stir upon the fire until boiling, a quarter of an hour, when
pass it through a tammy, and finish and serve as in the preceding; no
cream, however, must be added. This soup ought to be of a red color.
209. _Green Pea Soup._--Put two quarts of green peas into a stewpan
with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham,
cut into small dice, two onions in slices, and a few sprigs of parsley;
add a quart of cold water, and with the hands rub all well together;
then pour off the water, cover the stewpan close, and stand it over a
sharp fire, stirring the contents round occasionally; when very tender,
add two tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well in mashing the peas with
your spoon against the sides of the stewpan, add two quarts of stock, or
broth from the Pot-au-feu, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a little pepper
and salt, if required; boil all well together five minutes, when rub it
through a tammy or hair sieve; then put it into another stewpan, with a
pint of boiling milk; boil five minutes, skim well, and pour it into
your tureen. It must not be too thick, serve with croutons of bread as
for Palestine.
210. _Winter Pea Soup._--Wash a quart of split peas, which put into a
stewpan, with half a pound of streaky bacon, two onions in slices, two
pounds of veal or beef, cut into small pieces, and a little parsley,
thyme, and bay-leaf, add a gallon of water, with a little salt and
sugar, place it upon the fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side
until the peas are boiled to a purée, and the water has reduced to half,
then take out the meat, which put upon a dish, to be eaten with the
bacon, keeping it hot, rub the soup through a hair sieve or tammy, put
it into another stewpan, and when boiling, serve. The meat may also be
served in the tureen if approved of. Maigre pea soup may also be made by
omitting the meat, adding half a pound of butter, one quart of milk, and
omitting a quart of water.
211. _Lentil Soup._--Cut three onions, a turnip, and the half of a
carrot into very thin slices, which put into a stewpan, with a quarter
of a pound of butter, a few sprigs of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and two
bay-leaves, add also two pounds of leg of beef, cut into small dice; set
the stewpan upon the fire, stirring with a wooden spoon, until its
contents are fried rather brownish, when add one quart of lentils, and
three of water, let the whole simmer until the lentils are very tender,
when season with nearly an ounce of salt, and half that quantity of
sugar; it is then ready to serve.
To make a purée of lentils:--when the soup is made, strain off the
broth, add a good spoonful of flour to the lentils, which mash with a
wooden spoon against the side of the stewpan; then again put in the
broth, boil all up together, keeping it stirred with a spoon; rub it
through a tammy or hair sieve, again boil and skim, and it is ready;
serve with a few croutons of bread, as directed for Palestine soup.
212. _Maigre Soup._--Cut two onions into very small dice, and put them
into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter; fry them a short time, but
not to discolor them; have ready three or four handfuls of well-washed
sorrel, which cut into ribands and put into the stewpan with the onions,
add one tablespoonful of flour, then mix well a pint of milk and a quart
of water; boil altogether twenty minutes, keeping it stirred; season
with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt, take it from the fire, and stir in
quickly a liaison of two yolks of eggs mixed with a gill of cream or
milk (it must not boil afterwards), put the crust of a French roll, cut
into strips, in the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve very hot.
213. _Onion Soup Maigre._--Peel and cut six large onions into small
dice, put them into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter,
place them over the fire until well fried, when well mix in a
tablespoonful of flour, and rather better than a quart of water; boil
until the onions are quite tender, season with a spoonful of salt and a
little sugar; finish with a liaison, and serve as in the last.
214. _Hare Soup._--Put half a pound of butter into a stewpan, and, when
melted, add three quarters of a pound of flour, and half a pound of
streaky bacon, cut into very small pieces; keep stirring over the fire
until becoming lightly browned. You have previously cut up a hare into
neat smallish pieces; put them into the stewpan, and keep stirring round
over the fire, until they are set; then fill it up with five quarts of
water, add two onions, a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, thyme, and
bay-leaves, a blade of mace, and four cloves; when boiling, season with
one ounce of salt and a little pepper, and let it simmer at the corner
until the pieces of hare are done, which would be in about an hour if a
young hare, but double that time if a very old one; the better plan is
to try a piece occasionally. When done, take out the best pieces, and
the inferior ones pound in a mortar, removing the bones, put it back in
the soup, and pass all through a tammy, boil for ten minutes, and put it
again into a stewpan, and serve. The above quantity would be sufficient
for two tureens. A glass of wine may be added. Rabbit, pheasant, grouse,
partridge, and other game soups, may be made in the same way.
215. _French Pot-au-feu._--Out of this earthen pot comes the favorite
soup and bouilli, which has been everlastingly famed as having been the
support of many generations of all classes of society in France; from
the opulent to the poorest individuals, all pay tribute to its
excellence and worth. In fact this soup and bouilli is to the French
what the roast beef and plum-pudding is on a Sunday to the English. No
dinner in France is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to
be made without the pot-au-feu.
The following is the receipt:--Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of beef,
four quarts of water, set near the fire, skim; when nearly boiling add a
spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound of liver, two carrots, four
turnips, eight young or two old leeks, one head of celery, two onions
and one burnt, with a clove in each, and a piece of parsnip, skim again,
and let simmer four or five hours, adding a little cold water now and
then; take off part of the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay
half the vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat
separate with the vegetables around.
CRAB SOUP.--We add to the list of M. Soyer's soups, a receipt for a
purely American soup, a great favorite at the South, and esteemed a
great luxury by those who have eaten of it--ED.
[Open and cleanse twelve young fat crabs (raw), and cut them into two
parts; parboil and extract the meat from the claws, and the fat from the
top shell. Scald eighteen ripe tomatos; skin them and squeeze the pulp
from the seed, and chop it fine; pour boiling water over the seed and
juice, and having strained it from the seed, use it to make the soup.
Stew a short time in the soup-pot three large onions, one clove of
garlic, in one spoonful of butter, two spoonfuls of lard, and then put
in the tomatos, and after stewing a few minutes, add the meat from the
crab claws, then the crabs, and last the fat from the back shell of the
crab; sift over it grated bread-crumbs or crackers. Season with salt,
Cayenne and black pepper, parsley, sweet marjoram, thyme, half
teaspoonful lemon juice, and the peel of a lemon; pour in the water with
which the seed were scalded, and boil it moderately one hour.
Any firm fish may be substituted for the crab.]
FISH.